Framing Engineering - New Simpson Hardware I Used on My Own Build

[@alec4672]

I like this guy I hope to see more of him. He's good at explaining his thinking.

[@WallStreetBeggar]

Matt just wanted to mention you should use a standard washer on top of slotted washers like those. Not sure if your AHJ will enforce it, but since we're in a seismic zone out west, it's required. I don't remember the exact calcs, but slotted washers installed like this only has

[@HickoryDickory86]

I really like Whit in these videos. He's always so stoic. I bet that on the whole he's a very peaceful, calming presence, but can quickly and easily make it know when he's not satisfied without something without making a scene. Like a dad who never says much, never raises his voice, but when he says, "I'm not angry. I'm disappointed," you feel it in your soul. 😂

[@rogueremodel2993]

Great options for hardware, much prefer putting in Titen HD’s vs. having to be with the concrete guys to make sure they get the J bolts in the right spots! Awesome to see the engineer take the time to check your work, great job!

[@Jacobhopkins117]

The engineering, mechanicals, electrical, and plumbing in this build are so nice I wouldn't want to put up drywall!

[@terrymiller5028]

I tried that, but was overruled by the wife😩

[@MyConcreteGuy]

When I pour a foundation as a subcontractor, I always request to see if the framer will come out and mark where the anchors should be located. Most are all very happy to come out if you give them a couple of days to show up at job site.

[@kytddjj]

Good 👍

[@rajivbatra]

This is the first time I've watched one of Matt's videos and thought, "Yeah that looks pretty normal." Matt, come to California and do a video about how we build out here! I bet you'd love nerding out over what makes for a good seismic retrofit.

[@MichaelM-to4sg]

Look back in archives. He travelled up to Vancouver BC maybe 2 years ago to highlight construction practices there. Not only to handle wet & cold but also a very seismically active area where quakes are much bigger than anywhere in CA. Subduction quakes make strike-slip faults seem minor.

[@chrisbabbitt4202]

No one wants to go to California. Not even to visit.

[@blamuk]

I'm always jealous of how easy matt's local building requirements are. No high winds or earthquakes, low energy efficiency requirements, lots of space on flat sites, no rocks or wetlands. Allows him to focus on the craftsmanship!

[@MichaelM-to4sg]

@@blamuk Ya, but you would have to live in TX 🤣

[@kenknight4560]

@@chrisbabbitt4202 And no one in CA will miss you not coming. Give it a rest man.

[@janihanninen8321]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge of building and science of it. As a former carpenter and now site manager/builder I appreciate your effort to let us all know all the facts. Even thou I know most of it, I watch all of yours videos with most enthusiasm. As I am from Finland, I would like to see more solutions for cold climate, al thou, LOL, I'm trying to to locate myself in warmer zone in the future...like in Greece.

[@Jookyforever]

Good episode, thank you for making it. Consider having someone from Simpson on. They are usually quite knowledgeable.

[@dansamson7081]

Love Simpson Titens. I used them on a recent build where the foundation contractor incorrectly installed Gordon products FAZ- 14 mud sill straps. I set Titens 1 for 1 for each strap. Inspector would have compromised with a percentage I think but rather over kill it with strength. When it comes to anchors a little too much is just enough for us. Thanks Matt for highlighting the products it doesn’t get the love it deserves.

[@alanr745]

Whitt and other engineers really need to be witnesses to construction methodology on YT builds, so that us building needs (who plan on building) can get educated ahead of the curve and be able to identify good practices versus buddy system construction standards in small town America. Good work Matt! Love it!

[@JacobAFarmer]

Matt, I did all of my framing with LVL studs instead of ye old 2x4 or 2x6. I also used open web joists wherever possible. The premium for my entire house (almost 5K square feet) for the LVL studs was only about $6000. It seems like a no-brainer to me.

[@MichaelM-to4sg]

Matt, Your last frames taken from upstairs there is what appears to be a large utility chase behind you w/various sizes of what looks like PVC conduit/piping. Is this part of ERV ducting? Condensing flies for HVAC system. Would like to see more detail on that before drywall guys enclose the framing.

[@jackjmaheriii]

Those are called cumfotubes, and they’re the, fresh filtered air, part of the HVAC system.

[@0blivioniox864]

Good stuff. This channel makes it easier to stay up to date on the latest & greatest 🌝

[@tommcmillan3143]

Great video Matt, the Simpson products are really well designed. Your house is going to be super strong! When the washing machine is in high speed spin you won't have any strange harmonics and vibration like I had in a previous house I owned. I couldn't wait to get rid of that house and be in a better built house.

[@jordanlip112]

You did it matt! 4k! How awesome! Now we can get crisp visuals. That's so funny cause I commented on a last week's video about Upgrading to 4k and boom. Here's the first one

[@JonDunnmusician]

Love the fastener detail- big fan of thise products- can also be used to hold trusses to top plate though will confuse most inspectors- per MA manufacturer, they ARE code compliant

[@blamuk]

Yes, but I learned that all the different brands are not the same. My engineer looked up simpson/spax/GRK/fastenmaster for these 6" screws and I had to use the SDS, spax was not strong enough.

[@rogerwhiting9310]

Built my house myself in 2000. The building inspector thought I couldnt span 28 feet with web trusses. The engineering proved I could. Everytime I look at the all wood and glue web trusses... I hope the glue doesnt degrade. I couldnt find the pressed plate trusses anywhere... I really like them. Not a single lally columm in my house.

[@Sn0wZer0]

9:03 The structural engineer likes engineered wood. Next you are going to tell me that builders like to build and architects like arches :)

[@MikeBMW]

No discussion of tie-max bolts or the equivalent? In wood framing, we use it often in Florida. Also, on two story homes. The sheathing is no longer required for uplift, only shear. Makes the build and sheathing nailing less stringent for uplift like required edge nailing 3" O.C. and staggered as well as the field nailing 6" O.C. minimum if sheathing is used for uplift. Even so, your guest was quite knowledgeable - thanks, Matt! :)

[@timhale501]

I have a a general contractors license and we have to take continuing education classes each year to renew a license. I recently took a class from Simpson Strong tie and they showed using SDWC truss screws driven at a 15 * angle up thru the double top plate into the truss to eliminate huricaane ties shown at 0.50 . The class I took on the new energy code noted that hurricane ties results in air leaks when the drywall is installed with out calking the top plate at sheet rock install. In my area homes are getting blower door testing and must meet the air change per hour standards.

[@mcintosh.daughter]

I've used the Truss Screws on my last two houses. Great upgrade.

[@lardiop]

It's like Matt has been building his house since 2014.

[@JOSEPH-vs2gc]

to be fair, doesn't he live just around the corner?

[@alec4672]

@@JOSEPH-vs2gc not even that I thought just up the street. I thought he started this in like 2018 though?

[@Ptro1]

Waiting for his sponsors to provide free stuff

[@danonly7]

He probably has crews come to his house when he has no other paying jobs..

[@Ptro1]

Danny he’s just subbing out all the work. Doubtful he has guys on payroll

[@ColeSpolaric]

Should have routed out the framing for the hangers and tie downs. Going to be on the dry wallers now to get the walls flat.

[@buildshow]

I should have yes. 😬

[@Fucnut]

Matt had seen it on a previous project as well.. 😬😬

[@mikemcgirr514]

I noticed same...maybe drywallers will use mallet and board to (crush)flatten it out

[@domdogg123]

Possible to add some 1/8" furring across the whole ceiling to ensure things are flat? Roll a scaffold across with some cardboard drywall shims. Might be a smart way to remove the burden from the drywallers.

[@fordrac1ng81]

@@domdogg123 personally I like spacers anyway to float the ceiling off the joists.

[@robertmarshall8694]

Great work Matt, Love your show. Best regards from Australia

[@Dave5843-d9m]

Where I grew up, the local gravel is incredibly hard it wears drill tips at a stunning rate. It also blunts concrete screws so plugs are needed.

[@guytech7310]

When you were growing up its likely they were not using carbide tipped drills.

[@loganpatterson4674]

Hurricane ties should be installed on the outside to maintain continuity from sheathing to rafter. On the inside the uplift could peel the top plate off since you only have nails resisting in pullout on the inside.

[@SirPoofyPants]

I tend to prefer HILTI for post installed anchors, but glad to know Simpson is stepping up their game.

[@kurtzmtb]

I work at a structural engineering firm, and I spec Titen HD’s all the time. We love them and contractors really like using them

[@aldoogie824]

Lovin these details here. Nice to see you bring out the engineer, they deserve a lot more credit then they get. Just used those Simpsons screw on my jobsite, they do a phenomenal job at pulling the framing members together - just perform, they better, because they're PRICEY. You may want to check out using SDWC15600-KT 6" STRUCT screws for joist/truss to top plate or stud connections; incredible detail, really great to install.

[@ARPorganics]

I love watching these videos. I really appreciate all the free information I get to learn.

[@mitchellbarnow1709]

What great products! All houses should be connected to the foundation and to the roof, because you never know what will happen.

[@Crazylalalalala]

I hate to split balls here, but for continuous path the hardware needs to be on the same side. Thus the hurricane tie should have been installed on the outside if you wanted to use the sheathing for that. Otherwise you introduce torquing forces on the top plate which will reduce the capacity of the ties. Unless the designer is taking the torquing into account somehow. Which i dont see but i also didnt see how to studs are attached to the top plate. Care to clarify? Maybe residential construction is less strict. You would probably want to either add SP1 and SP2 on the inside or use some of those new fancy SDWC screws by Simpson to correct this. The designer should calculate how many/spacing.

[@andrewhillman9632]

Absolutely some of the best content available, well done.

[@Sharklee4]

I like the products that Simpson has developed over the years. Time to invest in that company.

[@9mmkahr]

A day for anchors! I would fire you 😆 We use the timberlock screws in place of hurricane clips now. Right through the double TP into the truss. Easy job the laborers fight over who is going to it :)

[@Crazylalalalala]

Yea I like the Simpson version of those. one screw to replace the tie. and they have a lot of capacity too so you are not loosing out on that front.

[@bingcholz-bm7yf9hs1b]

waw interesting... watching from Philippines. this channel is very informative.. nice to meet you architect MATT. i wonder why wood is way better alternative until now in other countries.. in here mostly houses in all sizes were 95% concrete.. in my house im using fiber cement boards for ceiling and another specific FCB for walls. a concrete flooring , columns and beams. looking forward to build a beautiful log cabin....

[@jctai100]

I'd imagine humidity and cost of lumber vs concrete plays into it. Different climates and different availability of woods.

[@bingcholz-bm7yf9hs1b]

@@jctai100 yeah right... insulation here is not much needed..

[@jroar123]

Nice to have enough money to get it right. How about a way to make moves in your house affordable. Hurricane clamps are a big time safety requirement. The one not talked about is belting your hot water tank to an anchor point.

[@allenrodgers8999]

Love watching your show. Being disabled suck! cause I would love to do what you do and meet ya keep up the awesome work brother

[@richardstephens3327]

I may have to try some of this out on my next project. I live in an area where 80+ mph winds are not uncommon and having a structure rock on the foundation can be a problem especially when the code for the region is wrighten by people that do not live in such a windy area.

[@apscoradiales]

Codes address such locations, trust me. Ask your architect or structural engineer if you don't believe me.

[@pe4153]

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOON the build show!

[@johnfitzpatrick2469]

G,day Matt and the Build show from Sydney, Australia. For Australia we have A.S 1684.1 - 4 (non and cyclonic) for New Zealand Branz 3604, that standard is referenced by the Code. Alternatively an engineer can specify detail. * that framework would be W33 -48 To resist wind forces. * stainless steel within 1 km of surf. 🌏🇭🇲

[@kendog52361]

I realize/know that those "sill plate bolts" are primarily intended for remodels and whatnot, but I wonder whether or not they could work in place of the J-bolts and the other sill plate option in new construction? Like they both pointed out, those can be installed basically anywhere it's needed, and they aren't having to worry about whether or not there will be a door there in the "final house".

[@augustreil]

A lot of builders say they are just as good, strong but...

[@dylnbxtr]

Every knew home should come with a full architect and engineer plan anyways. There’s no reason not to use J. These would be better used as a secondary or backup, just in case you accidentally missed one.

[@augustreil]

@@dylnbxtr, Agree 100%

[@apscoradiales]

You can use them in renovations or new construction. In fact, they are easier to use in new than J anchors, because J anchors end up being cast into the foundation at the wrong places 9 out of 10 times. Expansion bolts work just as well, as long they are set not too close to the edge of the foundation wall. Spacing should be confirmed by a structural engineer - geographic locations make a difference - some places get hurricanes, some places get light winds.

[@davecarroll5989]

Great video really good info

[@eyemanm6045]

Good simple presentation

[@svonavja]

Beautiful work Matt. Keep it up! 👍

[@enriquealdogarcia4850]

Many thanks, very important and didactic.

[@Dave5843-d9m]

Hurricane winds lift the roof because fast moving air = low pressure. Air inside is normal pressure so the roof gets sucked away from the house. Just 1psi over the whole roof = really high lifting force.

[@dougmartin8641]

Excellent information.

[@dgessence]

waiting on the plumbing vid

[@flukedogwalker3016]

Matt saved a bunch of money framing it before lumber prices exploded.

[@user-dr2pg8fk2i]

More afterthought fixes. How much on the fly planning is going on with this project?

[@andrewlewis9266]

Well, I mean it is a remodel on a 50 year old home. Its not uncommon.

[@user-dr2pg8fk2i]

@@andrewlewis9266 Everyone keeps calling it a remodel. Not a remodel when the whole house has been replaced. It's a rebuild.

[@codylittle273]

Random question...if you ever list this house for sale how do you list it? What year is it built on the listing? In the 70’s like the original house and foundation or 2021 because you clearly rebuilt the entire house...sorry random thought just popped in my head. Love the videos!!

[@michaelburkhart4550]

Great question

[@dennispope8160]

I’ve seen a few houses like this. Tax records show 1970s, real estate agent will list as new construction and the year it was built. This is usually done for tax purposes to keep the taxes lower from what I understand.

[@apscoradiales]

"Original house built in '70's. Major renovation done in 2021"...not magical!

[@bearfoot100]

Love Simpson products.

[@stgibson2810]

If you’re not using J bolts, what holds the plate in place until you get around to installing the anchors? Steel straps or just cut nails?

[@phamlam3720]

We use ramshot nails to temporarily hold the bottom plate location until they are ready for the Titans.

[@danielrutherford9456]

Dumb question: how are the drywallers going to address the lack of nailing surface along the floor since the floor is at the same level as the top of the bottom plate?

[@benjaminbagley4168]

No need to attach it except on the stud.

[@jackjmaheriii]

We did it by running 5/8 plywood along the bottom 3”. It was covered by baseboard and it worked pretty well. I always angled the trim nails for extra bight, but I’m not convinced that it mattered one way or the other.

[@alec4672]

I think he's gonna do that modern flush trim detail in this place. So the drywall doesn't go all the way to the floor it sits onto of the trim.

[@ScottyLo]

In regards to the wall framing. Since the floors are insulated with 2 layers of insulation I noticed there’s no 2x4 running along the bottom. Will that present a problem for nailing baseboard or Sheetrock.

[@jjansen987]

You should do a video on picking out proper properties to build houses on. For instance engineering reports wetland reports and so on

[@christianfontaine2946]

I'm really curious how much extra it costed to go with all lvl studs

[@brianbennett1244]

Matt - you showed us the Titan HD screws , the drilling of the holes, but how about the installation of them? Do they just drive in with an impact gun? Do you coat them with anything? Are these different than the Simpson ones that are epoxied in? Keep up the great videos!!

[@dannywilsher4165]

Drive them in dry with an impact.

[@Sn0wZer0]

The channel "RR Buildings" uses them a ton for post-frame builds. One example of many on their channel: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoGWdqeLjrFpkMk You drill and clean out the hole, but don't use anything else on them. They seem to go in pretty smoothly with a decent impact driver.

[@brianbennett1244]

@@Sn0wZer0 Thanks!! How long can I get them? I have to tie in some 6 x 6 sills to concrete.

[@Sn0wZer0]

@@brianbennett1244 Looking online I see 10" bolts available. At 6:25 in the video they talk about length & concrete penetration depth (4.25"), though I assume it is specific to this application. You could be in the ballpark if you are allowed to recess them a bit in your sill. As always, talk to a structural engineer (I am not one).

[@mmmmbennett]

I have always installed sheathing horizontal because I thought it would add more shear strength to the wall. Does continuous sheathing imply that the sheathing must be vertical?

[@younewser]

Yeah I want a better explanation, I wasn't quite sure what they meant

[@blamuk]

Continuous sheathing just means all unsupported edges have blocking. Can be installed in either direction.

[@gregorysmith9158]

He is talking about "continuous sheathing" while describing the load path for roof uplift during wind (load acting upwards in the plane of the wall due to wind interaction with roof configuration). I think what he is referring to is the fact that the long edge of the plywood is oriented vertically (at studs) with the short edge nailed into a row of horizontal blocking near the top of the wall (they pan quickly to the exterior and you can see a horizontal run of sheathing at the wall top aligning with the window heads/interior horizontal blocking). With the plywood vertical, you get a (nearly) continuous piece of sheathing material from the top of the wall to the bottom of the wall helping the studs transfer uplift from the top plate to the bottom plate/foundation. If you were to turn the sheathing sideways in this situation, you have at least three pieces horizontally and the resulting horizontal joints between them. Upward oriented force can't easily jump across the joints on the way to the foundation so any load in the sheathing has to go back into the studs and then back out into the next piece of sheathing at one of those horizontal joints. Its a crappy, not real stiff load path and probably would have to add more horizontal blocking at each of those sheathing joints for the wall to behave more like "continuous." So for dealing with uplift (taken in isolation) and minimizing horizontal blocking in the wall , vertical sheathing orientation is better. Any shear wall not supporting a roof presumably won't be resisting uplift so in that situation, the vertical orientation wouldn't matter. Both vertical and horizontal sheathing orientations work the same for resisting lateral shear load (load that acts horizontally in the plane of the wall due to wind/eq trying to slide or overturn the building sideways). Its hard to know if what they did matters without knowing all design loads/calculations. Maybe its pointless, maybe its genius. They don't go into enough depth to determine that.

[@janderson8401]

What makes it continuous is that the sheathing is nailed to the top plate, the studs and the bottom plate. In a house built on a foundation or crawl space the sheathing would have to be fastened to the mud sill and the rim joists as well.

[@gregorysmith9158]

@@janderson8401 If you can run one sheet of sheathing from top plate to bottom plate, yes your description is correct. But the sheathing isn't one piece from the top plate to the bottom plate in this house. look at the exterior shots. there is a short section of sheathing above the 8' vertical piece. that horizontal joint in the sheathing aligns with the interior horizontal blocking in line with the top of the window. Being "continuous" means having the edges of the sheathing attached to backing wood (studs or blocking between studs). Turning the sheathing vertical meant they could eliminate additional rows of horizontal blocking (long edges align with studs) had the sheathing been oriented horizontally (long edges running perpendicular to studs).

[@mikeadams3022]

Great video

[@deejohnson5163]

I love the tech stuff. The 6" screws, can you get a longer bit like 2-6" long??

[@chrisv_b]

Question, Will a nailing surface be necessary for any base trim? With the insulation raised to level above base plate there is only studs for attachment.

[@MrJramirex]

Studs and finish nails shot in a V shape should be enough to hold trim in place.

[@morninboy]

Do those sloping hangers pivot on a ring built into the side and bottom brackets? Never seen them before and cannot make it out in the picture

[@andrewschafer8986]

Yes sir that’s right. Hopefully Matt puts the part number for these hangers in the comments somewhere. I’d like to talk to my supplier about their availability

[@dantolen3969]

Not over engineered enough. You need to frame walls mortise and tenon with 4x6 oak. 16" center. Make sure to use airplane glue. Then add metal hardware to each connection to be sure.

[@MrTedflick]

I live in an 80s house. I get so pissed watching these videos with regard to all the great tech I'm missing out on

[@fitteritout3622]

That just means it’s time to build a new house!

[@apscoradiales]

You can fix that by building your own house, by using an architect, structural engineer, mechanical engineers (for heating/AC and plumbing) as well as an electrical engineer, plus a competent contractor - shouldn't forget a soils engineer. Go for it! Looking forward to the KZbin videos.

[@alanm2842]

is your house still standing and looking good

[@MrTedflick]

@@alanm2842 Yes, but very energy inefficient. Utility bill approx $600/mo in summer for approx 6k sq ft home.

[@terrymiller5028]

@@MrTedflick pay up front for the build or in the long haul for the lack of the build. Money flows either way.It becomes a choice.

[@MrCFerren]

Matt, have you encountered any down sides to using LVL studs? I.E. nails and fasteners embedded properly...

[@silentcaos]

I was wondering why you wired your whole house in 12-2 wire ? seems a bit of over kill for the lighting and outlets in bedrooms etc. granted some rooms are required to be in 12-2. up here in northern MN, 12-2 is $78.00 per 250 foot roll while 14-2 is $48.00 per roll.

[@sethrussell5649]

Many towns down here in Texas require all wiring to be at least 12 guage.

[@silentcaos]

@@sethrussell5649 wow, that just seems to be way over kill, especially since everything is becoming more efficient. is there a reason why they require 12-2 ?

[@sethrussell5649]

@@silentcaos because the inspectors are old and stuck in their old ways🤣🤣

[@leestebbins5051]

Hurricanes in Austin? Why not 2 x6 framing, hmm?

[@Jookyforever]

Hurricane ties are just a name for marketing purposes. Everywhere has wind loads that are high enough to rip a roof off if it is light.

[@juliancate7089]

Matt stated in one of the first videos of this house that the LVL framing was sold to him at a deep discount by the manufacturer. It may be that 2x4 was all they made available to him. Even if that's not the case 2x4 LVLs have got to be pretty close to 2x6 sawn lumber in strength. Third, Austin is fairly far inland as far as hurricanes go, so his home is extremely unlikely to see windspeeds above 100 mph. I know, because I live in Orlando FL, in a production-built 80's home using the cheapest materials the scumbag builder could find, and it's withstood several hurricanes, a tornado, and some very violent microbursts without anything more serious than a few shingles missing. So if my home withstood several hours of 90+ mph winds, then his home is not in any danger.

[@apscoradiales]

Are not the interior walls made from 2x4's and the exterior walls made from 2x6's?

[@james13553]

Hey Matt I noticed that you’re using the plastic receptacle boxes I was wondering why not metal the reason I am wondering is because when receptacles get overloaded or extensively used overtime the integrity of them become weaker they heat up more eventually they can start a fire and if it’s a plastic box that is considered combustible material where the fire could keep spreading now but if it were in a metal box wouldn’t that block out the fire from spreading and wouldn’t it be a better choice???

[@bobjoatmon1993]

Plastic meet code and are much cheaper.

[@james13553]

@@bobjoatmon1993 So basically he’s a cheap skate this is his own house and he’s willing to put him in his family‘s life at risk over not choosing to go with the metal box. Smh 🤦‍♂️ One of my receptacles almost started on fire you can see the damage from the flame but it didn’t spread because I had metal boxes. Now if it was plastic it would’ve started on fire and it would’ve spread to the wood and before you know it the whole place would’ve been on fire...

[@bahopik]

Oh no, video editor is going to get it on this one

[@JeanRoi]

What material is the Titen screw made of and is the bottom plate pressure treated?

[@exclusivelynyc]

I will be surprised if you're not hearing it from your wife already regarding, when is the house going to be done. Hun, I have to continue making these youtube videos. My followers are learning so much. Wife: Get the dam house completed already!!!

[@a921dji3]

Great video. I am a fan of engineered lumber. It’s my understanding that although engineered lumber is stronger, straighter etc, it is also more flammable. Solid wood takes much longer to burn. What have you done to offset the increased fire danger?

[@jimmitchell6000]

Is it "more flammable" enough to make an actual difference?

[@a921dji3]

@@jimmitchell6000 There were two or three large condo projects in greater Boston that caught fire in the final stages of construction a few years ago. The fire marshal suggested that due to the increased use of engineered lumber, the building burned much hotter and faster. The buildings were a total loss. 🤔

[@jimmitchell6000]

@@a921dji3 www.awc.org/pdf/codeofficials/2012/fpl_rp633.pdf has "we concluded that the char rates for composite lumber products were comparable to those of solid-sawn lumber and within the range previously found for different species of solid-sawn lumber.".

[@kc9scott]

My impression of this is that the wood I-beams burn through much more quickly just because there’s less mass of material. Wood trusses probably allow quicker fire spread because they have lots of open area. Probably no such problems with LVLs.

[@jimmitchell6000]

@@kc9scott An interesting point. I wonder if the videos on this house build will go into fire mitigation, beyond what local code requires.

[@stolz5573]

Can the Titen HD screw anchors be installed in a post tension slab?

[@klankowski]

What advances is your electrician and inhouse network installer bringing to your new house? Outdoor Access points, sound system, and others?

[@Mr._Craig]

What are the recpticals in? Is that a special box?

[@Mr._Craig]

@suspicionofdeceit great! Any idea what product this is? Name? link?

[@questionsforchristians]

How do the TitenHD compare to Tapcon screws?

[@clevelandbain2335]

Great content as always. Im curious, What building code is used in Texas? What “code” is is the engineer referring to?

[@buildshow]

IRC 2015 is my code here currently

[@CadillacWaltz]

Impact drivers are not needed or desired to drive in the fastenmaster screws.

[@joshhodge3166]

5:32 Matt where is your silica control

[@Hernsama]

I thought J bolts were dead. How it still meets code?

[@michaelmaas5544]

Have your framers check out the Simpsons Quick Stik for truss tie downs so much faster.

[@mrm8528]

I love the hurricane screws with the 4ft extension. So much faster and doesnt cause issues with drywall

[@blamuk]

My engineer wants 2 H2.5 for each truss (high winds) and one truss screw can substitute one clip. And I found it difficult to install 2 screws at 22 degrees without hitting any of the toe nailing (used to get the trusses to sit in the right place). But to set the trusses you have to be on a platform with the top plate below eye level anyway so might as well just tico the clips in, it's just as fast as the screws. Now, if I only had to use 1 screw and no clips then yeah I think the screw is a bit easier and faster, but not by much.

[@johnbecich9540]

I'm still wondering how you installed floor drains, considering the slab at ground floor was already in existence.

[@apscoradiales]

Jackhammer!

[@apscoradiales]

@suspicionofdeceit I think he had an existing slab-on-grade, then he insulated it on top.

[@SeeonX]

@matt risinger Not sure why this video is a bit off at 4k a little blocky. Maybe it was darker? Just in case I thought I would comment on this still valuable information and clear enough to be fine. I often stream this to my TV so I welcome 4k. lol

[@ggauth]

Were the hurricane clips actually necessary given the complete sheathing coverage? Would a specified nailing pattern not have been sufficient?

[@kenbrown2808]

I don't know about his area, but in my area, the answer is no. in my area, each anchor bolt would have to be secured to a full height framing member with a tiedown, and the tiedown would have to be bolted either to the ceiling plate, or through the ceiling plate to the floor plate of the next story, and the anchor hardware would be one inch. and in many cases, key walls have to have shear on both sides.

[@sethrussell5649]

Sheathing doesn't attach the wall to the roof. This is why you need the hurricane straps.

[@ggauth]

@@sethrussell5649 except in this case it does. There are no overhangs in his framing. The sheathing goes continuous to the top of his rafters.

[@sethrussell5649]

@@ggauth I didn't see that video. Thanks for the correction👍

[@tommccloud4930]

matt, why did you do 2x4 walls in your own house? i just watched the video about the house in the midwest that had 2x8 walls that you talked about being a great idea.

[@ThreePedalCollective]

He lives in Austin and has exterior insulation to give thermal break. So 2x4 is plenty for insulation. LVL 2x4 is also plenty engineering purposes, much stronger than standard lumber. Why add extra cost of 2x6 or 2x8 LVL?

[@jackjmaheriii]

He said in a few videos that 2x4s were part of fitting the new house on the existing concrete.

[@buildshow]

Yes Jack, My slab is the original slab from the 70’s and it made most sense to go back with 2x4 framing like it had before. I added a large amount of exterior insulation (2” thick R-13) to the outside so I’ve already got code insulation before I put Rockwool in my walls!

[@ksoman953]

I'd really like to see you collaborate with an architect/new budding KZbinr Belinda Carr out of TX.

[@markproulx1472]

24” deep LVL beam...sheesh...

[@shootmovecommunicate3322]

Do you need an intern ? Would love to get into the industry. But not sure how.

[@chrisE815]

Pick up a hammer, brother

[@shadabarifshaikh5604]

Is the framing 24 inch on center or 16 inch, looks 16 inch?

[@buildshow]

This is 16” OC

[@marklongchamps6741]

Matt how do you not have a tv show?

[@micahwatson9017]

He said mud sill anchors are new. Lol. We were using those 20 years ago!

[@janderson8401]

Maybe the local code officials refused to accept them when they first came out, or maybe it took awhile for the local contractors to try them out. It could even be that the local supply houses decided not to stock them.

[@coopertown7867]

I understand this guy but humility also goes a long way. There is actually not a such thing as a know it all!

[@CoJoOutdoors]

What does “limiting deflection” mean?

[@aknorth1053]

When a beam is put under load it deflects or bends. Depending on the span and load that will change the amount of deflection. So under long spans there could be a slight bow to the beams. So the idea is to limit that deflection or bend. For example on roadway bridges they often tension the sections use steel cables before placing them. The pretension causes the beam to slightly bow up, when set in place they settle flat.

[@jpe1]

Means the floors don’t bounce up and down as you walk across them 😁 But seriously, “deflection” in this context means “movement” and specifically movement in the direction of the load, so for a floor joist that means vertical; “limiting” means keeping that movement within a particular predefined range. For LVLs you might see something like “A deflection criteria of L/240” which indicates the maximum deflection allowed for a 10'-0" span beam is 10 x 12 / 240 = 1/2", in other words, the floor won’t bounce up and down by more than 1/2”.

[@nathanddrews]

As usual, love the content, but dude... please pay for an experienced cameraman or at least a quality camera. When you're showing off home building details, we have to be able to see them! 🤣🤣🤣

[@mariansdraila]

I had no ideea that Ben Affleck is also a structural engineer! :P

[@joeorsborn9794]

Why use lvl studs instead of 2 by 4's ?

[@rustedoutwrench]

Lvls are ridiculously straight, much stronger as well as being dimensionally stable with no cupping or crowning in anything from nothing to 20' tall walls.

[@rubenanguiano8237]

What type of engineer is Whit Smith?

[@switch89a]

I would guess he's a structural engineer, a sub-category of civil engineering specialized in the construction of building foundations, structural framing, arches, columns, decks, and walls.

[@RedArrow73]

Lost guest audio @ 11:24.

[@SolarDrew]

Matt come to Ohio and build my house. I am ready to build.

[@michaelmaas5544]

Hope you have DEEP pockets!

[@Lenser]

@@michaelmaas5544 Matt that expensive?

[@supernova8962]

He overkill things and the plumbing is horrible.... why would you put a water heater in the middle of the house....Have anyone here ever seen a water heater leak... I would at least put a leak detector to stop the valve incase of a leak. I would had put a tankless with a storage tank

[@bahopik]

@@supernova8962 he's got a drain pan for water heater and he's working with exhausting slab that limits design options