Save Hundreds! The Ultimate DIY Track Saw 2 0

[@twoweary]

Another good material option might be laminate flooring. It's extremely stable and fairly inexpensive . Plus it slides on another piece nicely. You can also glue the locking ends together to get 8' or more of length. Great video , and you're right, $900 to cut a straight line ,give me a break !

[@karlwarnes6062]

I use laminate flooring just as you said

[@spencebomb]

"You don't need to spend $900 just to cut a straight line" - never have truer words been spoken. Thanks for posting!

[@mymate18]

straight ye but if u wanted a clean cut good luck

[@d-roo1563]

Love this idea. I think I’m going to make this but with PolyMetal or Ultraboard (plastic core w/ thin aluminum sheets on the outside). They’re super rigid for being 1/4 or 3/8. They use it for signs. Thanks for the being transparent about your design/material flaws. 👍

[@SuperZmeister]

Excellent video. Caution your followers that the Ryobi 6 1/2 18v saw is for light cutting of short duration. I replaced mine today after learning that lesson. It was brand new fresh out of the box, and no where as strong as my old blue 18v. I believe it’s the ‘brushless’ motor that is the weak link. Same for the new soft impact driver. Keep up with the informative vids.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

I'll agree with you about the Ryobi saw. I was in Home Depot the other day and saw a guy about to purchase one. I told him that if he just wants to break down plywood cheaply, the Ryobi would be fine, but if he's going to use it for cutting treated lumber, he needs to go for a different option. He thanked me and put the saw back on the shelf. I haven't tried the the soft impact driver, but I've been impressed with the other drivers and drills I use from Ryobi.

[@marklawrence74]

Brilliant, easily the simplest and most cost effective way to make a track saw. Getting mine done now. Thumbs up

[@bobcalgarycanada8582]

You came up with a Solution that is Simple, Accurate and doesnt break the Bank Thanks for sharing your Expertise

[@Omarateastwind]

Great project/video plus no music = insta-sub!

[@BlessedLaymanNC]

Thank you. I like that you beveled the track so the saw is locked in during the cut.

[@rexoliver7780]

Excellent little video and this can be used with any saw.Also liked that there was no stupid music!Want to hear tools runnin'-no dumb music-the narration of this was excellent

[@9700am]

Very simple idea, well presented. The dovetailed runner is a nice touch, too. Will give this a build.🇬🇧

[@harlandmcwatters8431]

Hats off to you for using what you have to improve the quality of your own projects. Big THUMBS UP!!

[@crmcbrideww]

This is the best design I've seen for a DIY track saw. I did how go with a track saw because the dust collection is far superior.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Track saws definitely have better dust collection, especially considering mine has none. I designed mine for the needs of my shop, which is to break down plywood before it ever gets to the shop. I appreciate the kind words, and really appreciate you watching .

[@KipIngram]

Nice. I like the dovetails. I've watched a lot of videos like this, and most of them seem to suffer from the "initial straight" problem - you guys that have a table saw have no worries, but those of us who don't have to figure out how to establish that "first straight edge" to use as a reference for later straights. I'm fortunate - about 17 years ago I did a bunch of work with some engineered aluminum, and I have a few pieces of it still around. It's too heavy to use in a routine use jig, but at least I can use it to bootstrap my first straight cuts.

[@kenea3226]

I have been looking at buying one used, not now. Definitely going to build one.

[@gwarlow]

How does a video with so many positive comments manage to receive so many dislikes. Are there that many miserable people out there? Oh well... This is one of the most detailed videos on this topic. Thanks for sharing (300+ thumbs up!).

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

I appreciate your kind words. I've wondered the same thing. Anonymity causes folks to do things that they probably wouldn't do face to face. Example: guitar instruction video on how to play Stairway to Heaven. Instead of marveling at the guy's skill, thumbs down because I dont like Led Zeppelin, don't like the guitar he's using, his hair is too short, he spelled something wrong in the video description, and on and on, totally missing the opportunity to learn something. Sometimes you can learn something valuable that has nothing to do with thing being made. Yes, it's frustrating when folks miss the entire point of a video, but I'm happy that most people get it. And thank YOU, for watching, commenting, and getting it.

[@jarse1991]

100's of videos on how to make a diy tracksaw, but I think this one is the best. Easy, simple, and effective. Great video :)

[@TheOrcasRule]

I have that same saw (the Ryobi) it is kind of hard to use on other homemade track saw guides because there's only that one inch part. I often end up getting an angled cut because it's hard to keep it flush 100% of the time. This new build fixes that problem! Thanks for the video!

[@pentearmacaco]

Excellent design. Simplicity itself! The biggest challenge is making a really straight first cut, or counting on the mdf edge to be straight.

[@kevindavis1219]

Very nice design. I have been wanting to make one and looks like I found the right design. Great video.

[@waltp3373]

You're full of Yankee ingenuity. Thanks for no music. Absolutely not necessary.

[@allenherinckx4474]

Great build. Love to see people improve there designs and safety, but most important quality of videos and content. Thanks for the update, sorry for some of the rough comments. Lots of people have table saw and track saws because the track saw is safer to break down sheet goods.

[@TheSavvyREInvestor]

Great idea. Thanks for posting this. Plans, diagrams, or zooming in on some of the details like the dovetails would enhance the utility of the video.

[@luckydog7995]

Old school methods have been around for years. I used 1/4" tempered hardboard and aluminum "U" channels to make my 8 foot cutter. Prior to that I had a threshold from an extra wide 9' sliding door (left over from a job) as a guide which was very sturdy and straight but not directly attached to the saw. Most of the time I cut plywood under 4 foot long and use the Kreg Accu-Cut system with a cordless saw for that or my table saw when needed. I am a cheap guy and also don't want to spend a lot of time making a long track saw but enjoyed your video.

[@rebeccaanderson2907]

That was so cool. I am starting to do some wood projects as a way to relax from work. Girls can do things too. I was looking for track saws and seen this. So much for buying one. I can make it now.

[@RobertMSmith1]

Thanks for the ideas and the lack of background noise is very much appreciated . Nice shop also .

[@caseykittel]

Nice! A fix for the flex? Add a piece of angle iron to the right side of the base (from the operators point of view). angle iron (or even square stock) can be screwed down to the surface and it will stiffen the whole base. It doesn’t need to be slotted through or anything like that.

[@HepauDK]

My thought excactly. Oh, and bevel or round the leading edge so you don't risk the cord catching on the end. It would be a nice touch to countersink it from the bottom with a router though, then there is also less the cord can catch on. :)

[@blakeloke5586]

I'm new to KZbin and just found your channel and subscribed. As you mentioned, some of your viewers complained about music being too loud. Thank you for listening to your audience. Some creators feel that loud, head banging music attracts viewers and subscribers. Far from true with me. I search out channels to learn and see craftsmen like you create items of interest. I have a music system when I want to listen to music. Thanks for your track guide ideas!

[@vincentmah3906]

Your previous track saw was one of the best DIY track saw i've seen on youtube and made. It's so stable and doesn't wonder of the track, making accurate cuts each time. Thanks for sharing version 2.

[@terryevans297]

I just finished making a bed for my radial arm saw. Since I anticipate destroying a narrow portion, I made a plate using angle cuts on the sides like you did. I have two projects in the works right now; 1. A joiners mallet and and 2. A reasonable copy of your cutting guide. Thank you so much!

[@leobuis9568]

Dovetailing the guide rails was a nice touch and an elegant simple solution to the main problem with homemade saw guides. I plan on building some butcher block countertops in the near future, and your simple accurate saw guide plans will come in handy, thanks!

[@firmansyah-rd9hu]

Wow! Simple and easy! Thanks a lot for sharing it. 👍👍👍👍

[@macleanclassics]

Neat project.... I'm sure many will love ! An 8 foot level with 2 quick clamps works great too... then your saw isn't screwed to a base so it can be used elsewhere without effort.

[@davearonow65]

This is exactly how I do it. There is no easier method.

[@austinthomaswoolery]

I'm a mobile carpenter who runs out of a cargo trailer. I love this idea and ill be making one for myself tomorrow. Ill be using 1/2 inch pt plywood for mine for weather purposes. Breaking down sheets on a contractors table saw sucks. Ill most likely go buy another milwaukee 6 1/2 in saw and dedicate it as my track saw with the base setup on it.

[@stephenmerritt5750]

I would use a good 1/2" plywood for the entire build. That would make the track more durable. At least then it won't snap in half if it fell off the bench or get beat up going to the jobsite. Also, I would use a dovetail only on one side and leave the other edge square. That way it helps against kickbacks but the saw could be removed easily mid track.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

The half dovetail idea is brilliant! I'm definitely going to try that when I build another one. The thing about the flexibility: The more I use it, the less the flex bothers me. Also, the first version I built some time ago, is still going strong, with no signs of wearing out. Granted, plywood would probably stand up to abuse better, but I love the perfect consistancy of the MDF. No flaws, grain issues, sanding, etc. Just a coat of shellac and some paste wax and it's like glass. Thank you so much for the half dovetail idea!

[@adamshandyhands2346]

The thicker the wood used will ultimately determin how deep you can cut and thereforeimit the thickness of timber that can be cut.

[@speedgonzalez489]

Ok so make a video showing us how much better yours would be!!!

[@JosephQPublic]

Johny Quest - relax, my guy.

[@greatitbroke]

Thats a great idea I am going to build one on a 1/2" base like you were suggesting. Thanks. Great video.

[@johnurban7333]

Now I know what Billy Bob Thornton does between movies, great voiceover

[@ryanfrancisco8606]

i own a dewalt circular saw and a Milwaukee 18v saw and i like both these saws and had a similar track made up myself until two weeks a go a brought the festool just had to see what all the hype was about and man a will never regret buying it its like driving a Chevy then getting a Ferrari if you can afford the festool i would highly recommend as it is smooth and gives a perfect cut

[@lovinyurgranny]

Great video! I have been watching every DYI track saw vid I can find and this one is definitely gonna be the one I use to make my own! Thank you!

[@stevewayne1359]

To reinforce your guide so it is not so flexible, just mount (screw/glue) a vertical brace (to the right of the saw motor on the track - i.e opposite side to cutting edge of track)) perpendicular to the track. Works better than increasing the thickness of the MDF, much cheaper, saves weight AND it gives you something to hold onto when moving the track into position or moving around. I had a similar setup in my workshop (professional sound/lighting manufacture) and found this was the most effective way to brace. My vertical brace was about 4" high and made from plywood (about 3/4" thick) attached using Titebond 50 (I think that is sold as Titebond II in your country) brad nails and some screws

[@shihan1809]

This would have been my comment, almost to the letter. I've found you can cut pick up handles into the rigid spine, which further reduces weight and makes it even easier to handle. A little extra work, but worth the time. outstanding video though, thank you

[@CharlieGroh]

I'm a working carpenter/cabinetmaker/finish dude. Years ago I made a guide using a metal rule (at 4' but there are longer) screwed to a piece of Baltic birch (because it's extremely stabile and will take a lickin'...that's the whole rig. I run my 6.5 inch kit saw along the metal (which is affixed with 1/2" screws and they suffice quite nicely). I've been handling saws and such for my entire adult life and I think I've replaced/recut the Baltic birch once in 30-odd years. I use it mainly in the field for on-site jobs. When Festool came out I was initially impressed with the tools, until I saw the price tag. I'll stick with my method 'til I'm outa here...

[@plunder1956]

Ryobi now do a rather nice Brushless circular saw. It could be worth a look as a bare tool upgrade. For info: I use a 1400W Bosch Track-Saw system with 2x 1.6m tracks. I've been quite happy with it.

[@Ihaveaboyfriend]

Am I the only one who thinks he sounds like Billy Bob Thornton? Awesome build Billy Bob 😊

[@w4shep]

What a great design for an overpriced tool! Thanks for sharing. Another way you could add rigidity to the guide without changing the size your MDF would be to add a long stiff board or square metal tubing along the full length of your guide on the side opposite the cut side. Just a thought.

[@dtdavie01]

any tubing would work really to be honest. great thought.

[@MulletWoodStudio]

I was thinking the exact same thing. To be honest even using thicker MDF for that one part would do the job. He’s made a great guide though that I will definitely be building ASAP.

I always find really cheap second hand circular saws, around $10-$20, seems like a good thing to convert them to.

[@19woodworks]

So many different products out there to cut straight lines. I like the idea, I just wish I had the space to make and be able to keep something like this.

[@errcoche]

Nice low key clear explanation and nice idea with the dovetails.

[@nicolek4076]

You could make the guide more rigid by adding a thickness of MDF on the side away from the blade. There should be enough space underneath the saw motor housing.

[@elmoblatch9787]

Well done. Greetings from Easter Island. Man, watch your fingers on that table saw...some hasty technique there.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Keep in mind that camera angles can be deceiving. As a guitar player, my fingers are quite necessary, so I never get my fingers close to the blade. It's awesome to think that some is watching me from Easter Island. Be well my friend.

[@MintStiles]

There are accessory tracks for track saws that you can get, they are admittedly pricy. I use a plywood track for less important cuts as well. Just be aware that in a proper track saw, the combination of blade teeth design, plunge mechanism, dust collection and rubber support edge - amongst other features - makes it superior for applications such as furniture building or mission critical cuts or joint edges. These DIY tracks have their own application, such as material breakdown or accurate floor and structural wood cutting.

[@gunslinger270]

I dont agree at all, Ive seen edges cut with a diy track that are just as precise as those cut by specialized equipment. Its often the archer, not the bow.

[@MintStiles]

@@gunslinger270 each to his own. But my Makita track saws give me finish ready edges on even veneer MDF each time. The DIY track I only use for construction stuff. Not only do you lose 5/8-3/4 out of the base (which has other issues), the finish is never perfect. They are acceptable, but not (near) perfect. The archer matters yes, but you are not going to get Gold in Olympics with a wooden bow either.

[@oqsy]

This is brilliant. I love the dovetail + paste wax idea. My circ saw just got a new lease on life!

[@levismadore556]

Actually, it’s a good design and inexpensive to build. The flexing disadvantage with 1/4’’ MDF can be quickly fixed, not with a new build but a different cutting surface. I made a dedicated cutting surface for sheet stock using 2 old 1/4’’ plywood (4´ x 4’) on which I glued a 1’’ hard foam sheet. A small under frame was sufficient to stiffen the now available two surfaces which I attached together with hinges. When I have full sheet stock to cut, I unfold the 4’ x 4’ surfaces onto my workhorses and away I cut. The flexing is addressed and the protruding blade touches the foam surface if I choose to set the blade a few millimeters deeper than the thickness of the sheet stock. Love your ingenuity and its economics. Levis

[@jerishull1860]

the "dove taled" track is fabulous. Great video!

[@1959Berre]

For my guide I used 10 mm HDF (high density fiberboard) with a high gloss finish. I simply screwed an aluminium curtain rail on top of it with 10 mm long screws. Works like a charm an does not flex sideways, at least much less than MDF.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Where are you located? I can't find HDF where I am, but I know it's used in Europe.

[@1959Berre]

@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 I live in Belgium, Europe, indeed. The HDF I use actually is a laminated floor board by the name of "Quickstep". It comes in all kinds of different fake "wood" grains and colors. The bottom surface of these boards is a high gloss melanine, very slick, very slippery, since it is supposed to move as changing ambient temperature causes shrinking or expansion of the floor. So, the Quickstep boards are not glued nor are they nailed to the floor.

[@grosbeakmc]

Great idea! I have been thinking about a track saw for the rare times when I have to cut sheet goods. The economy of this solution is a perfect fit for my needs.

[@TheMadJester159]

These are great for rough cutting sheet goods to more manageable sizes for the tablesaw but will never be as accurate as a track saw. Plus dust collection is a must!

[@tonyfremont]

I don't understand, it is a track saw, isn't it?

[@raleighsexton7734]

A couple of factors make factory track saws effective. Most expensive saws can plunge cut (something a diyer can replicate with a hinge on the baseplate) but they don't wear the edge of the track out with repeated cuts like my homemade version has. Peter Millard, a professional woodworker in London, UK, has done a brilliant series on track saws, how they work, and what to look for. One of the best things I gleaned from that series was that Festool (and others) puts a rubber chip strip in a rabbet at the edge of the track itself. This virtually eliminates chip out on the work piece and minimizes it on the waste piece. They are replaceable as a consumable item and sell for a few dollars. That rubber strip might increase the cost of your track saw from $7 to $20 but will long term increase your cutting satisfaction as one of Festool's clean cutting secrets comes to your track saw! And will will make all the Festool fan boys who commented below go "Dam! Why'd he tell that?" Here's where Peter tells all: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iaHJZYudZ9Ckq6s BTW, I see that Kreg's Accu-cut has that little rubber chip strip on it as well.

[@dananderson3183]

Built your last version and absolutely love it. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. By the way found a nearly new skilsaw to dedicate to the track foe a mere 25 dollars

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Thank you. You made my day.

[@maca5645]

Perfect,just what i needed!. Might modify it ...keep every piece at 90* instead of beveling and add an overlapping piece of mdf over the non-cutting side rail gude.This should add some rigidity and stability. On the cutting rail maybe a slightly overlapping alu flat profile would lock things down without loosing cutting depth...alu spacers would be needed for the sliding mdf too....just thinking loud :) Thx!

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

My first version of this jig did not have the dovetail. It worked great. But a commenter asked if there was a way to lock the saw in place, and the dovetail was born. I personally like the dovetail, but it by no means is necessary.

[@maca5645]

@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 By all means ,your dovetail is a much better design. But i am not sure i can make an accurate dovetail so maybe a cruder overlapping rail will work. Kind of... :)

[@metalmick]

No idea why I watched this. Never do any woodworking, but interesting none the less. Thanks.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Well I'm glad you did! No telling what fate has in store. But since you have the word "metal" in your username, I will assume you are the connoisseur of fine music. I am as well, and try my hand at it from time to time. Could I encourage you to go to my channel page, look way back in the archive, and watch some of my music videos? I'm a prog guy, so sometimes there's metal with southern rock, metal with classical, metal with jazz, etc. The common theme is metal. I'm currently working on a collaboration with a couple of other woodworking KZbinrs that enjoy the harder stuff. I haven't got their submissions yet, but here's a link to what I've recorded so far. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKWpZJ2uaNN4hs0

[@metalmick]

@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 3 reasons really for the "metal" in the name. 1 ex sheetmetal worker 2 Yes i do listen to and play rather badly heavy rock guitar. 3 When i was a kid, well teen really, there was a programme on brit' tv called Metal Micky. Strangely enough directed by Micky Dolenze of the Monkees. So there you go!

[@jonbishop1385]

Great design and simplicity , Thank You for sharing

[@b.reasonable6900]

Nice design and build. Looked like maybe 90 minutes or so to build. Thanks for the video.

[@jeffharmed1616]

Thanks for sharing. Two things. First you can get by 95% of the time with a 48 inch track. Secondly the plunge saw is so superior to the standard circular saw that once you have one, you’ll never go back

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

The 48" thing may be true for most folks, but it's not true for me at all. I'm constantly breaking down full sheets where I need the full length. As for the plunge saw, you are correct there too. But, for that outlay of money there would definitely be no going back. It's the law of diminishing returns. I'm not willing to pay 30 times the amount of money for a 5% better cut. But that's just me. I'm cheap.

[@maxfedor1]

Jeff Harmed would be true if 95% time I was cross cutting sheets. Ripping sheets down to manageable size so I can throw it through my job site table saw (no Infeed or out feed tables) is why most trades would want a track saw.. ripping 3” pieces, I would have at least 6 pieces cut b4 track saw guy has finished in doing his clamps on his first 3” wide piece. Track saws have their place, I have the festool , but it doesn’t replace my ts nor my worm drive saw. For cutting dimensional lumber my skill 77d cuts at least twice as fast as my festool.

[@mikecarroll3132]

You could always add a strip of 1/2" or 3/4" MDF to the base opposite the blade. Thickness would depend on the saw's motor clearance. That would stiffen up the unit!

[@mymate18]

1/4 inch on the bottom to allow your saw to cut deeper ie. few sheets of ply at the same

[@HBSuccess]

FWIW- I like 1/4” material for these types of saw guides. Anything thicker is a pain. I use a good grade of plywood. Lasts longer and is much stiffer than MDF . I use a 1/4” aluminum bar for the upper rail and bolt through from the bottom. I am going to adapt this dovetailed design to my guides but instead of alum or plywood will get some 1/4” composite or acrylic. Thin/rigid as possible.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Acrylic for the base plate is a great idea! Thanks for letting me know.

[@puddytat62]

Exactly put right... no need to spend $1000 just to cut a straight line. If you're a cabinet maker maybe but the guys I know who do that have one of those monster sized wall saws you find at the Depot. Good video

[@golfmike304]

great video. I bought the Kreg version and true the 48 inch length is a draw back. I like your simple yet affective design.

[@dougsholly9323]

I know everyone here is offering up improvement ideas, so I hope you don't mind mine as well. Personally, I would probably add a tapered bolt countersunk to the underside of the saw base plate and held in place with an epoxy. Then I would get a threaded knob to hold the saw on the plate. This would make removing the saw from the plate quick and easy. You could probably get away with just 2 screws front and back.

[@FranklinWoodWorks2016]

Valid idea. You'd have to go with 1/2 for the base plate to have room to bury the bolt head.

[@ChristianCampbell]

Great work on the tutorial and video! Both were clear and concise!

[@masf1977]

Exactly what I need. Subscribed. Thanks for sharing.

[@unknownknown8555]

Liked as soon as you said you were remaking a video people said wasn’t made well. Gotta love it when someone is willing to take criticism and improve

[@maxfedor1]

Nice idea, understand with side winders(circular saws) wanting to wander even off a str8 edge, that’s why I mainly use ol 77 skil worm drive saw, they don’t wander off a str8 due to any worm drive design compared to side windees

[@herosliveforever3134]

I have that track from harbor freight. It works freakin awesome. You just have to measure off your line you want to cut an inch. Works great.

[@rusty_junk]

Simple and cheap. How it should be. Using 3/4" MDF on the non cut side Dove tail guide might add some stiffness. Adds a little more complexity to the build but I might give it a try.

[@TKevinBlanc]

Might this keeping you from lowering the saw to it's deepest position? The saw motor might hit the 3/4" guide? (This happens to me often when I use a speed square to guide a cut.)

[@adrian_belle_arti]

of all videos i saw, this is the better and simple idea! thanks man!!!

[@terrygaffee1353]

Cheers for this video. Will build mine this weekend 👍

[@stumask]

nice video, built the same sort of rail my self a few years back but I decided to use aluminium strips 40mm x 5mm thickness screwed down this acts as a rib to a sheet of 5mm ply so it made the whole bed narrower it made the whole thing lighter and easier to move around.

[@cloudrouju526]

adding a 2" strip of plywood should solve the too flexible problem. you can also add a few handles too.

[@justin7649]

Yes, but no. That was one of the reasons why he made this new design. The last one was too thick, meaning he was limiting the sawing depth.

[@cloudrouju526]

Justin not on the track but on the shoulder.

[@SteifWood]

Excellent design and instructional video. For my version I will look into Metsä Wood Tuff MDF (birch plywood overlaid with thermoplastic, and down to 9 mm (23/64") in thickness), or some other melamin covered mdf. PS I have the same Ryobi One+ saw and it works superbly, especially when I compare it to the Festool I've also used and the fraction of the price.

[@billyjay4672]

Hi Franklin just subscribed great track it doesn't really matter what you use as long as it does the job and works all the time nice job bro.keep them coming in all ears.🤭

[@gyorgyangelkottbocz9766]

thumbs up for garage innovators! was loooking for a track saw for years but havent bought one for the ridiculous price... you just solved my headache. now i will be able to keep my 15 year old metabo running and the rip off industry can kiss my ass! cheers :-)

[@gregghernandez2714]

Really a great design. Hey I know how you can fix the rigidity issue: Just add an extra 1/4 inch MDF sheet (a little oversized) to the backside with plenty of glue and weights. After the glue is dried just cut it to the proper length on your table saw. You might lose a tiny bit of cutting depth but probably not a whole lot. Thanks for this excellent idea.

[@mriguy3202]

you have some good ideas. I was thinking of making something like this, but using a cutting board made of HDPE as the saw base. I have spare circular saws, so I can keep the HDPE base permanently attached to the saw used on the track saw. I need to cut some siding on my garage next spring, and it will be really hard to get my table saw up on the wall, so a track saw will be useful.

[@makeverse584]

Thanks for this super useful idea! Will try to make my own!

[@Ouscazz]

Very good, thank you. No music, only understandable explanation = like and sub!

[@gregebel3842]

I like this. I made a circular saw guide but didn't have the dovetail so you have to keep it tight to the guide. I think I might have to switch to this.

[@ecaff9515]

Excellent video and process. Much success. Thsnks for sharing.

[@CoastalUpcycling]

First time to your channel...I thought this video was excellent! Thanks for sharing your design👍

[@DIYGene]

Great video and I really like your approach to the saw guide. Thanks for the great tip.

[@krishnababu5600]

As much as i enjoyed watching your videos, i couldn't help compliment you on your "Animal planet" voice. Your voice is so heavenly and this makes your videos watchable more than the visual content. You should surely explore that side when you retire.

[@MicrobialWorld]

Hi. Attach a strip on 1/2 inch plywood on top of the guide on side of the saw's motor. That way the cutting depth won't be compromised and the guide will have sufficient rigidity.

[@douglasrasmussen480]

For the tool-o-phile with an infinite budget and infinite space purchasing a track saw is an attractive instant gratification option. HOWEVER, for me and most of the people I know, infinite, is an unfamiliar terminology. Not only is this track saw jig version as accurate and easy to use as the high priced commercial ones, it also is one more project that is enjoyable and worthy of pride to have in the shop. If you are so inclined, you can tell the wife you bought an expensive track saw and then use the remaining savings to buy other "essential" tools.

[@tonyb2955]

Love the remake, no music, and an awesome project. THANK YOU

[@helmuttdvm]

Nice project. Perhaps attaching a 1x2 strip on the far side would help stiffen up the guide (but would require C clamps to properly attach to your workpiece.

[@Moe7133]

Very nicely done but I have a suggestion for the wobble. You have room on the left side of the track. You could add some small ribs to strengthen it with left over plywood. Just make sure the grain is perpendicular to the surface. Now to take it a notch more so that it doesn't move, you can glue some Neoprene Rubber Sheets to the under side so you don't even have to clamp. :)

[@ThaiPham-rq5ko]

My first DIY track saw was 5mm thick 5051 aluminum panel. They cut by hydraulic press. Then I straightened with sander and a long steel ruler. I bought table saw by the saving money from diy projects. However, track saw is still useful whether you have table saw or not. This video was make for new diy wood workings.

[@jacobwilson3316]

Awesome concept, done that for years, minus the dovetail, what I like about the actual track saws is that you can do a plunge cut mid track, I’ve tried that with this concept but always hit the edge of wood track messing it up, I have yet to personally own a track saw though the company I work for has 5, so I’ll borrow theirs and save the money

[@NylonStrap]

Paste wax is amazing stuff for woodworking. Thanks so much for this idea. I'm gonna have to build one, too

[@GRAYnomad]

Rather than using a thicker base and losing cut depth, maybe add a steel "spine" to the base. A length of 1x1 RHS or something, and add a handle or two to that as well.

[@guyh.4553]

Like this. Nice video. When you said that your track was too thick, I immediately thought of using 1/4" material. What about using hardboard? MDF is great stuff but it can get so heavy! Thanks for the ideas & "Saw On!" Ha ha ha

[@rodneywhite4494]

You sir, are a very talented guy! Thank you.