Why ND's?: DJI Phantom 3 Professional with PolarPro ND8 & ND16

[@brianvanheugten1796]

I had a VERY limited knowledge of what ND's were used for, but after watching your video, I absolutely will be buying a set. Thanks for the awesome explanation!

[@moakprod]

Just purchased a set of filters through your link. Thank you for a thorough explanation showing why these filters are a must. Just got a Phantom 3 Pro yesterday, and can't wait for these filters to arrive. Thanks again!!

[@otm777]

For those who might not understand the need for ND filters (or understand how to use them), you should do the following demo. NOTE: The following steps should be performed outdoors on a bright/sunny day (not indoors). Start with the standard/transparent camera lens cover ON (i.e. the one that ships with the P3). 1. With your P3 and Remote Controller turned on (mobile device attached with app running), change the camera shooting mode from Auto (P) to Manual (M). 2. While in Manual mode, your ISO should be set to the lowest setting of 100 (especially if shooting on a bright/sunny day) 3. Now, adjust your shutter speed to twice the frame rate - rule of thumb (i.e. if shooting @ 30fps make your shutter speed 60). Immediately you should notice the image appears over-exposed (too bright). 4. Unscrew the standard/transparent lens cover, and screw on a ND filter...try an ND4 or ND8 to start. Notice how the image exposure changes to a more acceptable/natural level. Hence, by adding an ND filter, you are able to lower the shutter speed (thus creating motion), and correct the exposure. By shooting in Auto, the camera makes all the adjustments for you, one of which is increasing the shutter speed (600+). Increasing the shutter speed is good for quick action shots, but not so good for capturing "motion". The other adjustment Auto makes is the ISO (based on the lighting conditions). NOTE: Aperture is fixed on the P3 so nothing changes there. By switching to Manual, you are more in control over the shot..and ND filters give you that ability. Hope this helps someone, as I've had to learn by watching others myself.

[@seberila]

Well explained

[@rogermyas]

+IDStudio7 So do you leave it in manual mode while you have the nd filter on? Or can you still use it in auto mode with the correct nd filter for the light conditions? Thanks for your help

[@FrederickHagan]

+Lee Stewart You can leave it in manual mode BUT ONLY IF your shutter speed is at the 50 mark. The object is to get your shutter speed at 50 when shooting 24fps. So if by shear chance the ND you have on pushes the shutter speed to 50 in auto mode....then that's perfect. The problem with not setting a manual shutter speed is... On auto mode the shutter speed with automatically change. You don't want this. On auto mode, with an ND your shutter speed may be at 50 BUT when you turn the quad around to face the sun the shutter speed will automatically jump way too high because of the change in brightness. It's always best to use manual settings so things don't automatically change on you in mid flight. Hope this help and thanks for the comment.

[@rogermyas]

Thanks for the help. I got some good results today. Cheers

[@stephenmason5682]

The problem is caused by the f2.8 aperture, letting in too much light on normal days @ iso 100! A ND filter darkens the amount of light, so you can end up with under, over, or spot on exposure? This is NOT ideal, and never a good choice for serious video'ing? You should work out the 'best' exposure, and set auto to give this! OR to give this WHEN on auto! Then on auto, it will adjust around that setting!

[@panphoto]

Thanks Frederick, Being a stills photographer I learned a lot from this. Well done. Also, I appreciated not being forced to switch off by distracting 'beat-noise'!

[@FrederickHagan]

David Parker thanks for the comment, David.

[@rant-n-rave7816]

What a great explanation Frederick! I use your link to answer this question when I get it and it's the best explanation link I've seen, great job!

[@FrederickHagan]

+Drone Doctor Thanks for the comment.

[@dakumar6742]

So glad to have found your tutorials, just purchased my first drone (P3 advanced) and was so disappointed with my footage. Was actually about to return it but knew I must have been doing something wrong. I've watched this and a few of your other tutorials which I'm sure will help. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge..

[@FrederickHagan]

+Dakumar Thanks for the kind words, Dakumar. Just stick with it and keep testing my friend. I wasn't impressed with my first few fight tests footage either. The more a flew and filmed the more I learned and my footage got better pretty fast. The P3 Advanced is an impressive piece of equipment but like anything it's all about knowing the equipment inside and out. Best of luck to you and thanks again for you comment.

[@John-of5sh]

Thank you so much for explaining this in words that I can actually understand! And Thank You for taking time to make the side by side comparison video's. As the old saw goes, "A picture is worth a thousand words."

[@FrederickHagan]

+John Archer Thanks for the comment, John.

[@ReubenMRU]

Thanks for the explanation... I sort of like it crisp though... couldn't see the difference much in the videos as the end... do you have more examples?

[@FrederickHagan]

ReubenMRU Thanks for the comment. These are only the generally accepted rules for shooting video. It's a place to start from. If you're happy with a more crisp motion that's all that counts. Yes KZbin compression takes away the subtly and clarity of the video unfortunately. When the side by side examples play toward the end, try pausing the playback on your end. You'll see the difference.

[@jeubby5614]

Fredrick thank you so much for this informative video. I've just recently purchased my DJI P3A; luckily I came across your "Eye Opening" explanation. Although having had experience with 35mm SLR cameras/ digital SLR cameras and filters, the world of aerial videoing is a new experience for me; One I am quite excited about. Thank you again for your insightful assistance. MUCH APPRECIATED!!!

[@FrederickHagan]

+John Eubanks Thanks for the kind words, John. Clear skies my friend.

[@jeffro.]

Thanks, Frederick! I got the set from Polar Pro that has circular polarized, then ND, and then combinations of both at different densities (up to 3 or 4 stops? I don't have 'em handy), and they come in a handy case! I had to wait for them to come out, but they're worth it! Thanks for showing me that, now I get more use out of my video!

[@FrederickHagan]

+Jeff Jackson Thanks for the comment, Jeff.

[@onirico7913]

Thanks a lot for such an insightful video. My question is, do those filters actually help achieving that sort of cinematic, blurry effect that you talk about? Or is it just the shutter speed that does the trick? I ask you this because I can't see the link between the two in order to get the effect you stress on the video. Many thanks again!

[@FrederickHagan]

It's the shutter speed being down around 50 that gives you the cinematic blur at 24fps. It's the ND filter that allows you to get the shutter speed down to 50 in bright conditions. So it is a combination of both.

[@gundolarry]

Thanks very much for taking the time to put this tutorial together! Question01: If the filter is installed, will it automatically reduce shutter speed, or will we still have to verify in settings or otherwise set the shutter speed manually? Question02: Weight an issue? Concerned about burning up the gimbal motors obviously.

[@FrederickHagan]

+Larry Barnard The ND is like sunglasses for your camera so it reduces the amount of light therefore you can reduce your shutter speed. You'll need to check the app and always set your shutter speed manually so it stays at the speed you set it. Checking the app will tell you if you need to go with a lighter or darker ND. The goal is a proper exposure with a shutter speed at 50-100. (Auto is dangerous as it will "automatically" change as the camera angle changes and therefore environmental light changes.) I have over 300 flights with ND filters installed and no kind of "counter balancing." My gimbal still works like new and shows no sign of audible or physical stress.

[@gundolarry]

Awesome Frederick, thank you for your time and insight. Well in son!!

[@maartenfilms7631]

Hey! Thanks for this comparison! I would also be very interested to hear about how to choose a specific ND filter. Because there's not really a way to check the shutter time that the GoPro uses, right?

[@curtismattingly7505]

Thank you for this video. The Content and examples are extremely well done. Thanks for the confirmation. I will be purchasing my ND's this week. I've been looking for additional information on this subject. My aerial has been missing something and now I believe the look and more importantly the feel should be much more improved. You are also correct as I've been a photographer for many years. Aerial is wonderful. Thanks again! Superb!

[@FrederickHagan]

Really appreciate the comment and I'm glad the video could help! Clear skies my friend.

[@OmarKandahar]

Thanks for your work, having discovered filters in my photography, I bought them with the P3 and you have shown me that it was well spent.

[@FrederickHagan]

+Albert Miller Thanks for the comment, Albert. Glad the video helped.

[@derekreeves]

Hi Frederick Hagan, I've been following a few of your posts. I have a few questions that I'm hoping you could give me your thoughts on: 1) Is there any way to know if you're receiving the "updated" PolarPro ND filters? Packaging type? Specific vendor? Are the new filters screw on or slide on? 2) Now that you have used both PolarPro and SRP, which are you a bigger fan of? The PolarPro filters are significantly more affordable. A set of three for $70 USD vs $58 per filter for SRP filters. 3) Of the SRP Filters, which is the most universal? As you have mentioned, taking them off and switching them out is not the most practical thing to do. I'm thinking of just investing in a single filter. Thanks for all your tips and contributions.

[@FrederickHagan]

Derek Reeves Thanks for the comments, Derek. 1. The new or updated PP filters are screw on just like the stock UV. The picture in the video (4:49) above shows a photo of the updated filters. The front of them has a raised edge where the first batch was a thicker, solid smooth cylinder with no raised front edge. 2. Both brands "work" as ND's of course. I think it depends on what you intend to do with your footage to justify the price point difference. I do Video, TV and editing for a living and I can say the SRP's glass and coatings are incredible. I've only begun test's with PP's filters so we'll see. You can't take the PP's apart for cleaning but when I take the SRP's apart to clean even the edge of the glass is blackened to make sure there's no foreign light entering or effecting the image in the cameras lens. 3. If I were to only buy one to start with I'd go with an ND8. That's going to be the most useful for most lighting conditions to get your shutter speed in the sweet spot. (The ND8 was the first one I bought) That said you will eventually need an ND16 for full on bright midday sun. Best of luck and clear skies.

[@davidkenward2289]

Hi Frederick, yes you are really right bang on the mark never new how important ND filters are to photograpy thanks for a good post from the U/K David

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment. I'm glad the video could help.

[@furiusp1780]

Great Video. Any chance to make a video on how to determine which nd filter to use in each shot depending on the light available on location?

[@FrederickHagan]

You use the ND filter that allows you to shoot at a shutter speed around 50 and the exposure meter centered. That's how you know you've got the correct ND on. So it's all about trying it out in the field yourself.

[@furiusp1780]

Great. So i guess you just set the shutter to auto and see how many stops above the desired shutter it will set it self and then place the nd filter and go back to manual mode?

[@FrederickHagan]

+FuriusP No you can just stay in manual mode. Set your shutter speed to 50 and just leave it. Then use ISO to brighten if necessary a little bit. But the exposure meter will tell you if you're too bright or too dark.

[@furiusp1780]

Super Thank for the tip!

[@furiusp1780]

+FuriusP Frederick did u come across any issues using the nd filter? some friends mentioned they get purple artifacts using nd16 filters.

[@HighlandHippie]

Thank you very much! What and education I've gotten from this. And you are correct, I come from a photography background and thus my intuition was incorrect in terms of this natural blur motion for video.

[@FrederickHagan]

Great! Thank you so much for the comment.

[@MrAndyballard]

Lots of info in there. I’ve just bought a set of the PolarPro ‘cine series’ ND filters for my new Mavic Air. I know all about the 180deg rule (doubling the FPS to arrive at your shuter speed). I’ve also downloaded the ND calculator that supposedly let’s one calculate which ND filter you need after entering FPS and shutter speed values. But it doesn’t! Out in the field how do you calculate which ND’s to use when you’ve manually set your FPS and shutter speed? Say using 48fps (for slo mo) and setting a1/100 for your shutter (i.e double). Is it a case of simply looking at your phone/monitor and seeing that it’s overexposed and blown out then screwing on say a ND8 and then trying a darker ND in increments etc? Cause that’s the only way I can figure this whole thing out. Be really interested in your method here as you seem like a very knowledgeable guy.

[@FrederickHagan]

Andy Ballard Thanks for the comment, Andy. When it comes to choosing the right ND filter it’s all about aesthetics and observing your light meter. Setting the exposure is when “the art of photography” comes into play....therefore no calculations on paper could substitute. Simple trial and error with different ND filters - until your exposure is dead center - is the way to go.

[@MrAndyballard]

@@FrederickHagan Thanks for speedy reply Frederick. I can usually ‘nail it’ when using my DSLR as it's quite straight forward to correct the exposure reading, but doing that on the Mavic will be a trial and error scenario I guess. I'm heading to sunny climes so have just bought a ND32 with polariser so that should cover me for the brightest days I hope. Greetings from England.

[@FrederickHagan]

@@MrAndyballard Yes it's much more challenging than using a hand held DSLR. With aerial videography you can have the exposure set perfectly but when you say yaw 15º to the right....the exposure is off! Too hot... too dark. It's all about watching the exposure meter as you fly. CONSTANTLY make exposure corrections, back up, set up again and reshoot the scene you want. Clear skies to you my friend!

[@victor_tlm7355]

Thank you ! I just anted to know what was the difference between ND8, ND16 and ND64 ?

[@FrederickHagan]

The higher the number the darker the filter

[@arod9518]

Thanks for this excellent video on filters. One question I live in a very, very sunny area and I film during day time. Which filter should there be more convenient ND 16 or ND32? I see that the package is for ND, 4,8 and polarized which I believe is not sufficient. Do you agree? can you buy ND8/ND16/ND 32 separately in polar pro?Thanks again,

[@FrederickHagan]

The 32 is really dark. So if you're shooting in the desert or snow that would be about the time you'd need it.

[@benconeuniforms]

Very interesting and thanks for the advice. I did notice in the flyover of the house, even with the ND filter, you are getting some moire on the gutters of the house, maybe not as much as without the ND. Would your sharpness, contrast and saturation recommendations from the other video help in this regard?

[@FrederickHagan]

I shoot with the same settings as mentioned in the previous video. I never change them.

[@drewmorg.]

Frederick can you explain why ND filters not only lower the amount of available light to the sensor, but also somehow capture better color as well? Does this have to do with shutter speed being slower... more color detail or something?

[@FrederickHagan]

+drewmorgan I don't know if I would say that a slower shutter speed gives you a better color in video. But I will say that the slower shutter speed is required to get natural and cinematic motion blur. A high shutter speed give you this really stuttering choppy almost strobelike effect to the motion. That said I guess it's possible that more information is being exposed on each frame since technically the shutter is open a little bit longer at the proper shutter speed? Just a theory though so I wouldn't put much validity in it.

[@drewmorg.]

Roger that...

[@DonLoughran]

Excellent presentation, thanks very much for sharing. Makes short work of the question, "do I need an ND filter?".

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment

[@michaelhorgan2652]

Thank you so much for the tips. I have a amateur photography background, but I don't know anything about video. There are a lot of people like my that just got our phantom 3 pro for Christmas. Any tips you have to get us off to a good basic start would be helpful. I look forward to checking out your other videos.

[@FrederickHagan]

+Michael Horgan Thanks for the kind words, Michael. And yes check out my other Phantom 3 videos for more in depth info on settings and tips. Here's a good one for camera settings.... kzbin.info/www/bejne/lYHXqneda9xsoaM

[@apetersonjr]

Very good. I'm sold. However, I wish that you spent a few minutes on when and when not to use polarized, and, how to know what number to use... Have you created a tutorial on this? Thanks for sharing the video! Nice job!

[@FrederickHagan]

+Alan Peterson Polarizers are good for reducing glare and pumping up saturation. BUT...I rarely use a CP because I can get the color and saturation I need in post. As far as what ND to use. The camera will tell you this. Place say, an ND8 on the camera. Set the camera to auto. Look at the settings the camera is "automatically" adjusting to via the amount of light in your current shot. When shooting at 24fps - If the shutter speed is higher that 50 (say 100 to 1500) the scene is too bright. Id then put an ND16 on. Now check what the auto settings are saying. The shutter speed will come down because you're reducing the brightness of the incoming light. IF you're in the market for just one ND. Go for the ND8 first. It's an all around workhorse ND for most lighting conditions. Also this method: For 24fps, manually set your camera shutter speed to 50 and ISO to 100. Use the histogram. If the screen is too bright (you'll see it on screen) the historgrams waveform will be heavy on the right side. If it's too dark it'll be heavy on the left side. You want the histogram information to be in the center for a proper exposure. Hope this helps and thanks for the comment.

[@apetersonjr]

+Frederick Hagan This is perfect. This answers my question perfectly. So it seems like I should be ensuring the 2X rule (Shutter = 2X FPS), and, the historgram. I don't mind buying the kit, but out of curiosity, for bright California mid to late afternoon sunny days, what would be most used? 16/32? I'll probably but the complete kit and now that I saw your video, and after watching a few of my videos (I just bought the P3 about a month ago...), I agree -- it's mandatory.

[@FrederickHagan]

+Alan Peterson Great. Glad I could help, Alan. Honestly the only environment were an ND32 would be useful is for say... white sand beaches or a snowy winter scene at noon. Good to have just in case but I've NEVER used my ND32 as of yet. Maybe this winter. The one ND that stays on my P3 about 70% of the time is the Snake River Prototyping Graduated ND. The GND16-8. It's 16 on top graduating to 8 on bottom. PERFECT for aerials as 95% of the time your sky is MUCH brighter than you land. (SRP's glass is incredible) IF not the ND8 (fairly bright, overcast, at sundown) and the ND16 (Full on midday sun with no clouds) would cover most of your needs I think.

[@apetersonjr]

+Frederick Hagan GREAT! Okay, I'll find it on Amazon now and buy it! Because that's 70% of what I believe I'll be shooting too. I assume allthe same rules above apply to a GoPro Hero 4 Silver too? Thanks!

[@FrederickHagan]

+Alan Peterson go straight to the source. snakeriverprototyping.com. Yes the same rules apply for that go pro. For GoPro on SRP's site look for the BlurFix line of filters.

[@larcherphotography768]

When shooting action sports, do I really want motion blur?

[@stephenmason5682]

The ND Filter has increased the D o Field in the background?

[@MoviesSam]

Frederick - How do I know if I am getting/ordering the UPDATED filters. Is there something clearly identifiable about them ? I want to order soon. Thanks in advance.

[@FrederickHagan]

It's been a while since the new updated filters were released. So I feel confident that any filters you purchase from this point on will be the updated ones.

[@renanschiebel2974]

Hello, what a great video! I have a phantom 3 adv, still learning how it works. I have a PL filter on its way from China, however, I think I need to buy a ND filter as well. I live in Rio de Janeiro, I think the most common landscapes I will be shooting videos e photos are beaches, sunny weathers etc...What would you suggest my friend? Thanks, Renan

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the kind words. The ND8 is the filter I use the most.

[@renanschiebel2974]

Thanks a lot!

[@sicoblum]

i just bought a dji osmo with a ND 8 filter, im so exited to using the camera with the filter after watching this video, thank you Frederick its makes a lot of sense to get a ND filter Cheers

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment and best of luck with the new set up!

[@tonydomrep]

So how do i know if what they are selling on ebay or amazon is the new version and not the old one with the problems. Is there any way to see that?

[@FrederickHagan]

+Tony van der Heijden If you are ordering now all the new filters will be the latest version.

[@natserog]

I bought the 3 filters from Polar Pro for my Phantom 3 Pro. Circular Polarizer, 2-stop ND, and 3-Stop ND Filters. I have only used the Polarizer filter. Should I be using the ND filter instead of the Polarized? not sure whats best. love your videos!! so helpful!! I'm just learning this stuff.

[@Seqhael]

+natserog That is an old comment, but in case anyone in the future wants to know an answer for this. The Polarizing filters are not the same as ND filters. Polarizing filters stop polarized light entering the camera (Polarized light is reflected light, like off a car windscreen, or the reflection on top of water). When you wear Polarizing sunglasses, you can see through the water, or not get annyoing reflections. ND filters on the other hand simply slow down the light passing through your lens. Imagine two sets of sunglasses, the first one is clear glass but polarized - the second is just normal sun shades but non polarized. The clear glasses will still let all the bright light in, but not reflected (polarized) light, the second set will let polarized light through, but just reduce brightness to stop so much light hurting your eyes. You want to use the ND filters for more cinematic footage, the ND filter is needed, as if you manually set your shutter speed without an ND filter, your footage will be way too over exposed because too much light is coming in, the ND filter will reduce the light, in order to allow you to manually set your shutter speed to double the frame rate you're shooting at without over exposing, thus giving you cinematic motion blur. The Polar Pro Cine series combines these two elements, giving you both an ND filter and polarized filter in one, to give you control over your exposure (shutter speed), and filter out polarized light at the same time.

[@FrederickHagan]

+Seqhael All the above is absolutely spot on correct. Thanks for your input, Seqhael.

[@FrederickHagan]

+natserog Thanks for your comment. See Seqhael's comment below for more info....

[@nickbjones]

Is there also a benefit to shooting with ND/PL filters in Log?

[@FrederickHagan]

Absolutely. You get the same benefits no matter what color profile you choose. ND's concern themselves with lowering the light so you can get your shutter speed down for a proper exposure. So... ND's have little to do with "color" and more to do with proper exposure.

[@nickbjones]

Thanks Frederick. By far my favourite phantom tuts on the web. Keep it up!

[@rafal8614]

Hi I do know it's expected to have some natural motion blur when filming objects in motion. Question is why is it blurry and unnatural looking when filming stills. Perhaps the shutter speed was too low or the Nd filters are not compatible with Phantom 4 camera. I'm all new to this and very much appreciate your work and feedback.

[@FrederickHagan]

That could be the problem. Still photos need to be shot it it least 60th of a second

[@kuau714]

Frederick, again excellent job. Have you moved on from SRP filters to Polar Pro? I just got both the SRP 16/CP and the 16/8 Graduated filter. Maybe on your next tutorial you can explain in detail on how to setup and obtain the best exposure, white balance. etc on the P3P/ Thanks again

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment, Steve. I felt the need to do a explanation of why to use ND's for this video. Since I had just received the newly redesigned and updated PolarPro P3 ND's I simply decided to use those for this educational piece.

[@kuau714]

Got it thanks for the clarification. When you use your SRP ND16/8 filter how do you have the filter turned? I am having trouble determining which end of the filter is darker

[@FrederickHagan]

Steven Kornreich Good question, Steve. I had the same question as I thought I mistakenly had received the regular ND8! SRP educated me that the graduation is very subtle. That's on purpose so when you're pointing the camera straight down you don't get an obvious "dark on top" look to the shot. So go outside and hold the filter with two fingers over one eye while closing the other eye. Move the filter edge to edge, left and right, then up and down. It's subtle but you'll definitely see the darker ND16 edge or half of the filter. I mark my darker side on the edge of the plastic filter with a regular pencil. (That way it can be wiped off as it changes when I take the filter apart to clean it.) Now I now to install the filter while turning until my pencil mark is on top where the darker ND16 is.

[@timeonthewaterca]

Thank you for your video. I feel am back to square one after seeing it. I was always trying to get crisp video, so losing the cinematic edge. I work over water most of the time and I often extract frame for pictures. If I want the best of both worlds can I simply stall the flight to have the picture quality I want using an ND filter?

[@FrederickHagan]

+john whyte Thanks for the comment. That is correct. Just slow down or hover and you'll have plenty of stills that are crisp and clean for photos. No need to remove the ND. That said..... Some fast moving stills, especially over water, could be beautiful with motion blur. Would create some energy and give a dynamic quality to the shot vs a still thats crisp and sharp form top to bottom. Just a thought.

[@timeonthewaterca]

Thank you I'll give it try. I think I have been spending too much time trying to eliminate features that actually might improve my images.

[@sewgobindhansraj600]

Hello.. great video.. can you suggest a suitable ND filter for daily outside uses? will the ND16 be better most of the time than the ND32 in a daily drone shoot? thanks

[@FrederickHagan]

For full on sun I would stick with the ND16. The ND32 is way too dark rendering it pretty much useless ..... unless of course you live on the North Pole! Thanks for the comment

[@sallydoc4439]

whats the best settings for taking a High Def photo - or there about I know its only a 12meg camera ........great videos by the way.

[@FrederickHagan]

+Birdseye Media Thanks for the comment. I use the same settings for video and photo. kzbin.info/www/bejne/lYHXqneda9xsoaM

[@StargazerFS128]

Awesome video, I'm wondering though, the effect of an ND filter will be the same on the Gopro? I'm assuming it will, I shoot a lot at 1080 either 30 or 60 FPS, I guess I should be getting an ND for my Gopro, it's mounted on my phantom 2 with zenmuse gimbal, I get rock steady footage but I want an ND now.

[@FrederickHagan]

Yes you absolutely need an ND filter for your GoPro Hero 4/phantom 2. I still use my phantom 2/GoPro hero 4 set up when I want wide angle shots. The best filters I've found are the BlurFix filters by Snake River Prototyping. Just google those terms and I'm sure you'll find it quickly. Here's a tutorial on the GoPro Hero 4 footage in case you're interested: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6vFgmeOn7SihZI

[@reallukx]

Frederic I learned a lot form your tutorials, big thanks for your time ! I have a question regarding ND filters, especially polarizers. Is it worth adding Polarizer filter or ND is okay when using flat log recording and color grading after? Or polarizers will ad extra umpf to the footage ?

[@FrederickHagan]

+Lukasz Szeflinski Thanks for the kind words. I don't use PL filters at all. They're - primarily - designed for still Photography since their effect is only active at a certain angle (90º) from the sun. With aerial videography you're constantly changing position and angle so that essentially makes a PL useless. Over water they can be helpful in reducing glare or reflection but again that's if you're shooting at the correct angle positioned from the suns angle. I prefer to do post color and grading to get the extra umpf visually. I'd stick with a good set of ND's. Those are the only necessity as far as filters are concerned for aerial video. Hope this helps.

[@phils7552]

Awesome video. I have an adjustable ND filter. Any suggestions on setting? Also, how do you get a phantom 3 to shoot smoother video when doing aerial 360 shots?

[@FrederickHagan]

Just watch your exposure meter. That's what'll tell you when you're exposed properly in regards to where your adjustable ND is set. The key to smoother footage is super slow movement. The slower the better. Even if it appears to be barely moving on screen....that kind of movement is most cinematic. As an example... Regardless of how fast a quad can fly the best looking and smoothest shots are when I'm filming while moving around 3 to 5 mph.

[@drewnetwork]

Really great video -- everything you expressed is exactly correct. I have not yet messed with any range of ND filters for the P3 (I bought those inserts, and ended up cracking the "UV" filter of the P3) -- but -- even with those inserts the difference was substantial (you are correct in all of your points). My only stupid recommendation is to try out Premiere Pro CC -- in which color correction for any ND filter requires one or two clicks -- issue over. Thank you for being a pioneer in this important matter. You have been helpful, insightful, and a leader. Very best, DREW

[@FrederickHagan]

drewnetwork Thank you for the kind words. I'm always a little apprehensive giving any "advise" as I've simply learned it from someone else or through my own experience. Plus, there's always someone who knows more than me. I've learned much from you for example. Thank you. Point taken. Premiere Pro CC is what I edit and do color work with. Absolutely love it. For this vid I just jacked up the contrast in hopes it made the differences in the comparisons more noticeable...KZbin compression and all.

[@FrederickHagan]

I'd order from PolarPro. eBay would be risky since many ordered the first batch and got replacements after the fact.

[@QuickShifter]

Fredrick hey, While im shooting with ND16 filter ( Photo) i get so much blur is it normal? or should i use Polarized filter?

[@FrederickHagan]

+QuickShifter As far as Photos go you don't need to use an ND at all. For video: As long as the shutter speed isn't lower than 50 you should be ok. 16 is pretty dark so it may be forcing the SS down to 30-40 if your shooting in auto mode. You should always shoot in manual mode so you can control the camera settings. Did you try a lighter ND like 8 and see if that works better? Testing is everything! Good luck and I hope this helps.

[@QuickShifter]

Thanks for quick reply, Im still new at this work and i didnt take ND8.. and im going to buy it now for try :) So, while shooting photo i should take of the nd filter right? And should use polarized? For the videos ND will be ok?

[@FrederickHagan]

Correct. You do not need an ND for Photography on the Phantom 3 or 4. Whether you use a polarizer or not is just a preference. I rarely use one. For video an ND is a necessity.

[@QuickShifter]

Thank you so much Frederick.

[@kingofwake]

Coming from a photographic background... this helps a tonne! Like you said, from a photographic perspective this video seems so backwards (not wanting the crispness). Thanks!

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment.

[@michaelfriedl5463]

Thank you Fred - now i knew it WHY to use them. Is it allowed to share your Video?

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment and of course I'd appreciate it if you share the video.

[@jippie770]

Hi Frederick, i used an ND16 at a semi-low sun over a some water, but when i got back to the computer to check the scope it looked as it was blown out, but not at 100, it was kind of blown out at 90. What can i do to prevent that? Stronger ND or something else? Bad quality ND's? Cheers! Keep up the good videos!

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment. Yeah reflections of a low sun on water are going to blow out regardless of what ND you use. It's a given so don't worry. The important thing is that the rest of the shot is properly exposed with enough details to bring out in post. Oh and be sure to check your exposure meter within the GO app. Make sure it's centered... not too hot.... not too dark.

[@jippie770]

Big thanks for the info and tips! I will check the exposure graph in the GO app the next time. Cheers!

[@mtsiyeh]

Which ND filters should I buy? Polar Pro looks popular. DJI also sells a ND4 and a ND8. I would want the lightest quality one available. Would DJI's be lighter, less stress on the gimbal, etc?

[@FrederickHagan]

+William Muth The lightest available are the DJI ND filters.

[@dougford2504]

Hey Frederick, I'm going to be filming while snowboarding. I'm confused, which would be better an ND filter or a Polarizer filter? Some say the ND cause of how it will be fast moving and others say Polarizer cause of how bright it will be and the glare. Is using both a possibility? Can you please help me

[@FrederickHagan]

+Doug Ford Sure I can help. An ND is for reducing the brightness coming in the camera's lens. Period...nothing more. A Polarizer is used to reduce glare on primarily water and glass surfaces. It also helps reduce glare on leaves, grass and the whitest parts of clouds. The only other thing a PL does is give a little saturation to the blue in the sky. (I don't worry about that as I can get whatever skies I need when I color correct the footage.) The downside to a PL for aerial shots is that the effect is only active on a 90º from the sun. So if you're facing the sun directly or facing directly away.... the PL has zero effect. For snowy scenes the priority would be the ND. For midday sun in the snow you'll need at least and ND16 perhaps even an ND32. That said they do make combo filters that do both if that the way you want to go. But unless you're shooting around lakes, rivers etc. I'd go with a good set of ND's.

[@jaimeandrewsrojas7675]

Hello. Excellent video, very good explanation, i have allways asked myself why people recomend filters, but you explained totally clear, thanks. If i may, i have a question: If you don't use the filter, can you make some blurry motion effect with postproduction in premiere? I think it will not be the same, but i would like to try.

[@FrederickHagan]

Can't really do postproduction motion blur. The best way is to use and ND filter. Thanks for your comment.

[@MarkBenderAerials]

Hi Frederick,,.Congratulations on truly a wonderful explanation.. You are indeed a fine visual story teller. No I have noticed sort of artifact with my Phantom 3 related to motion blur. I have the forward backward motion captured beautifully as I have used nds since actually the original canon 5d days.. But when I pan unless extremely slow the image sharpness goes down. Nobody seems to notice but me but yes I can easily. Attribute this to the slower shutter speeds we use but what would you recommend to reduce this drop in image quality in the pan?

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment. Yes it's tough to get a cinematic pan on the P3. As a matter of fact, a pan is tough on most cameras that shoot at a bit rate less than 100Mb/s. The problem with the P3 and panning is the low bit-rate that it records in. Only 60Mb/s. So it can only process so much movement every second. When it can't you see what you've already described.... artifacts. As you've already found, the best way to get good pans is to do it super slow. That way the camera's bit rate has time to keep up and process the image as you move. Sorry it's probably not the answer you're looking for but it's a limitation of the camera.

[@MarkBenderAerials]

Thank you Frederick that solves the mystery. Those of us who have been doing this for awhile know, once a limitation is established then you work around it. Not that my limited skill level justifies me buying a new bird now, but do you know the bit rate on the Phantom 4? Is it significantly better than the 60Mbs you mention? Thanks again for your quick and valuable reply let alone your excellent Channel.

[@FrederickHagan]

You said it brother! It's not about what you can do... it's about working around the "can't do's". You can capture fantastic imagery with the P3. You just gotta work with what you have and not expect RED epic quality. Good for you man! The P4 has the same camera (with some sharpening improvements and a different casing) as the P3. So it only shoots at 60Mb/s also. THAT is the biggest reason I decided to stick with my P3 instead of "upgrading". The camera's the same... so it's not an upgrade in my book.

[@chmith27]

again awesome and very helpful stuff. you probably have commented on this at some point, but pixel motion blur is employed for a similar blurring effect and thus a more pleasing video. do you find yourself not having to use this very render intensive effect with appropriate shutter speeds afforded by the p3? those of us used to the gopro/P2 have not had this luxury of controlling exposure and thus i find myself using the pixel motion blur often and it is truly a pain with my macbook (i have a mac pro now for this very reason!). i'm breaking down and getting the P3 prof. thanks! -chad

[@alessandrobasilico5847]

hi frederick! how could i get smooth panning if the shutter speed is not high? I got very beautiful motion but when i try panning, even if i go very slow, the image looks blurry

[@FrederickHagan]

Make sure your shutter speed is not going below 50. Anything under 50 will produce very blurry pan shots.

[@Michael-ec6te]

Hi thanks for the comparison ! What's the music on the background plse ?

[@FrederickHagan]

Venom thanks for the comment. The music is a piece that I composed called Bittersweet.

[@Michael-ec6te]

Oh waw congratulations it's enjoyable to listen, do you have a link ? or where i can find it plse ?

[@appiahjoshua9068]

Please I need help , because I use ND16,ND32,ND64 but I need the settings for the video settings cos am getting Moire and Alaising in my video

[@mediamannaman]

I just watched Frederick's video on Phantom 4 Pro camera settings (kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpTXgXyViNxmjrs) and he does a fantastic job of explaining moire and aliasing and recommends settings to reduce or eliminate them. On the P4P he recommends Sharpness at -1. I would think that if you are still getting moire and aliasing at -1, try -2.

[@aguscuffia836]

i have p3a wich nd filter u recomend to me? im new in this..thanks from argentina!

[@FrederickHagan]

It depends on how bright the environment is. For full on midday sun I use and ND16.

[@aguscuffia836]

Frederick Hagan i just buy in amazon anbee nd 16, 10 dolars, ill start with that and see if i note some dif if not i have ro buy better, its hobbye but i want to better myself, sorry about bad english thnks for quick answer, cheers, ill suscribe :) till next ask :P

[@reallukx]

Thank you Frederic. Which ND you are using the most 8 or 16 ?

[@FrederickHagan]

Of the two I use the ND8 most. But the ND filter that I use the most is the G ND16 to 8.

[@tlp5002]

Great video and very helpful! I was looking into the Polar Pro filters and was curious to get your thoughts. What do you think would be better for photographic purposes? The CP / ND4 / ND8 pack, or the 16/32/64 pack?

[@FrederickHagan]

+Tyler Pezzuti Thanks for the comment. If you plan to use the drone for photographic purposes an ND filter is really kind of useless. Since the aperture of the camera is A fixed f2.8 and the fact that you're flying relatively far away from all objects you don't have much control over the depth of field. An ND filter is only important with video by allowing you to get your shutter speed down to the 50 mark during bright conditions. Hope this helped

[@tlp5002]

Frederick Hagan I might try the CP / ND4 / ND8 pack and tinker as I do plan on getting more involved in video recording. Definitely helpful and subscribed. Cheers.

[@natserog]

great video!!! a big help!! thanks! if I use a ND8 filter and my frame rate is 30...should i still set my shutter speed at 60.

[@ZeldasGhost]

yes if you want natural motion blur and a cinematic look.....if you need to brighten just adjust ISO

[@zeusfaber11]

very interesting,, what filter would fit me best for tropical environment,, a lot of sun,, a 32 i suppose???

[@FrederickHagan]

Yes I would say at least an ND16. An ND32 is pretty dark so it would only be useful if it was a place with white or light colored sands. The only time I found it necessary to use a 32 was in bright winter scenes.

[@zeusfaber11]

clear,, thnx a lot for the reply..

[@739UKO]

Great videos. If you only brought one ND filter for your P3p (UK use) - which would you get and why ?

[@FrederickHagan]

I would go for the ND8. It's the first one I bought. This can cover most of your needs and it's too dark for mid morning, evening or overcast light.

[@739UKO]

+Frederick Hagan Thanks. So it's for very light , sunny days only or did you mean it is ok for lower light ???

[@FrederickHagan]

Sunny but partly cloudy and when the sun is low. Not right at sunset or sun up but late afternoon. ND4 for sunset and sun up. ND16 for full on blazing midday sun.

[@geoffwarren4207]

Anyone know how to help me here - - - I can't unscrew the uv filter that came installed on my Phantom 3 professional. It won't budge. I've seen vides showing guys turning it easily counter clockwise, but I can't get mine to turn at all, and I'm afraid to break that delicate little gimble. Any suggestions, or advice, much appreciated.

[@FrederickHagan]

+Geoff Warren Sorry to hear about your troubles. A few have experienced the issue you're having. The best way is to apply even pressure around the full circumference of the UV as you try to turn it. When trying to remove it by pinching with your thumb and index finger (like most of us do) this binds the threads on those pressure points even more. Some have had success with a long piece of rubber or string tied around the UV then twisted off. That way the pressure is distributed around the whole lens vs. in a couple of pressure areas. Hope the makes sense and helps.

[@LukeMaximoBell1994]

Excellent video!!! I've never understood why I get that effect like the video is kind of jumping when I am flying fast, but from your explanation I finally understand it. It's because with the fast shutter speed, it's as if there is a gap in time between photos the camera is taking for video. I just ordered the ND8 and ND16 filters. Would you say these are a good choice for the golden hours and normal day lighting?

[@FrederickHagan]

+Luke Bell (Techo Bell Reviews) Thanks for the comment. ND8 is good for bright overcast and partly cloudy. ND16 for full on midday sun. An ND4 or nothing at all for the golden hours depending on the brightness.

[@LukeMaximoBell1994]

okay cool. Thanks! I guess I'll just have get an ND4 as well, because I mainly shoot in the Golden hours.

[@alphaev7]

thanks for the video. am a first timer with a P3 Adv and your video has convinced me to get a ND filter!

[@FrederickHagan]

+Eddie Tan Thanks for the comment, Eddie. Good luck with you ND filters. I promise you won't be dissapointed.

[@zacharylee5575]

can you help me, so I have a phantom 3 standard and whenever I fly if there is just a little bit of sunlight the camrea gets so dark you cannot see it, is this a settings problem?!?!?!?!?!?!!??

[@FrederickHagan]

zachary lee that's normal. That's the cameras way of adjusting for the bright sunlight and exposing properly.

[@zacharylee5575]

So would I need to go to settings to change something if I got nd filters or can you just put them on and fly (would nd filters fix my problem)

[@FrederickHagan]

No it is what it is. Even if you were using a $30,000 RED Epic camera...the sun is still super bright

[@zeusfaber11]

Hi Frederick, me again)),, I have a question about taking pictures,, with the ND filter on, especially a darker on,, the picture gets to dark,, do i have to do a separate fly without the filter for taking pictures?? or change to a faster shutter speed?? or get back in the auto mode from the manual rule 1/2 fr rate/shut speed???.. sorry if some questions seem stupid but lot of people read the comments and there are a lot of beginners like me out there))) thnx in advance for the answer..

[@FrederickHagan]

To be honest I shoot all photos in auto mode. Tap the screen to get the proper area exposed and shoot. Most of the time you can do this with the ND filter on. However if your shutter speed on auto goes below 50 you'll need to take the ND off in order to get a crisp photo.

[@zeusfaber11]

thnx a lot!!!!!!

[@Screamus]

So ND filters are ONLY for video, right? Especially because these drones take RAW photos, meaning the highlights and shadows can be recovered, right?

[@mwjdr88]

I use these, Mr. Hagan has much insight. They are a must.

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment.

[@GoProBro]

I'm starting out in aerial cinematography soon with a DJI 4. Would you recommend ND4, ND8, ND16 or ND16, ND32 and ND64 kit from Polarpro for starting out?

[@FrederickHagan]

No. To start all you'll need is the 8 and 16. Upgrade to the 4 and 32 later as those are rarely used. The 64 is overkill. Way to dark and you'll never need it... Unless you're shooting on the moon! Lol.

[@jacobtravers7943]

Hey mate, a couple questions; Polar Pro don't have the ND filters WITH PL (polarizer) at the moment. Is that necessary or is that only to reduce lens flare / UV in bright conditions? Not really sure what the PL offers on top of an ND if you could enlighten me? Is the polarizer for stills and the ND more for video? Would you still use these filters for stills? Cheers

[@FrederickHagan]

+JAKE T (Teahaircut) The polarizer is more for reducing glare from water or glass. It does saturate the blue sky also. But to be honest I really don't use the Polarizer versions very often. If I want deeper skies I can do that in post production color grading. If you've got a couple of ND's (most used are the ND8 and ND16) you've got 90% of all outdoor shooing conditions covered.

[@jacobtravers7943]

+Frederick Hagan Awesome, thanks. Cheers for the great video too

[@Emuspaul]

I don't want to mess with post production. My experience with polarizers is they really make a difference, especially on water, and bringing out colors. So I ordered the new ND plus PL filters. Of course, if indoors you probably would not want any filter.

[@Grougalette]

Thanks for the video :) I have bought ND4, ND8 and a polarizing filter. When it's cloudy (recording water), which filter have I to put please ?

[@FrederickHagan]

Filming over water is another matter. I'd use a combo ND/CP. (Circular Polarizer). The will keep the glare from the water down.

[@dakumar6742]

One piece of advice please, what software would you recommend for post editing. I'll be sharing most of my videos to family and friends via iPhone apps so I'll shoot mostly in 1080 as it's easier to share and view. Thank you

[@FrederickHagan]

+Dakumar I use Adobe Premiere Pro CC 2015. That said you don't need expensive software to cut together fun clips to share. Even something like iMovie works great. Just depends on how much you want to invest I guess.

[@novembertrails]

on the first test you say you're using the "auto mode" for the shutter speed - so what happens if you follow the rule of thumb of your shutter speed should be double the fps, but without an ND filter? does that help? I'm asking because I've ordered my drone which should arrive tomorrow, but I've also ordered an ND16 filter that will arrive in about 4 weeks unfortunately.. so what happens when you shoot at say 24 fps with shutter speed 50 without an ND filter? as always, thanks for amazing videos!

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment. If you're able to shoot at 24fps and have a proper exposure when you shutter speed is set to 50.... that's PERFECT! The sole purpose of an ND is to block enough bright light to be able to use a lower shutter speed of 50. (On bright sunny days when using auto-mode the shutter speed could be as high as 800 to reduce the incoming light enough for a proper exposure. This super fast SS is what makes video motion have that hard, stuttery "cam-corder" look vs. an organic and cinematic look.) So if it's not too bright out and you're able to shoot 24fps at a shutter speed of 50 there's no need for an ND at all! Great question....thanks for asking.

[@novembertrails]

+Frederick Hagan Thanks for the very quick response and the explanation! So it seems like I'll be able to play around with it for a bit then after all until my ND filter shows up. Keep up the great work!

[@MustafaGT]

Hi Frederick, How do you like the PolarPro Filters? I am trying to decide to get these. Many people say that they are a bit heavy I have an Inspire 1 which Is a bit off topic but wanted to know your thoughts on it. Very nice videos by the way. Subscribed.

[@FrederickHagan]

+MustafaGT Thanks for the kind words. Yes the PP filters work well. Don't worry about the "extra weight." I've flown with PP filters and the SRP's which are 2 grams heavier. Over 200 flights. The gimbal still performs as if it were brand new. One of my best friends is a serious aerial videographer. Along with his two Octo's he has an inspire 1 also. He's using SRP filters for his inspire. SRPs glass is flat out incredible.

[@MustafaGT]

Frederick Hagan Thank you for the reply. I will get a set of the PP filters and see how I do with them.

[@dylonjohnson8067]

You just sold me on the ND filters. Great tutorial, thank you!

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment. Yeah I can't stress enough how important ND's are as a necessary tool for top notch filming.

[@normality89]

And one more question on this video regarding ND filters;) I am about to purchase one (just for now) as I am mostly shooting very sunny days in Australia, but also I am going to Europe for fall/winter and am afraid that if it's not bright sunny outside but a little overcast or cloudy, the SRP Graduated ND16 will be too dark for shutter speed 50 ? If you'd order only one for now, which one would it be? Thanks!!

[@FrederickHagan]

+Tomas Uher Overcast skies are surprisingly bright. I've had to use a solid ND16 before. It's deceiving because with overcast days it is "cloudy" but it's diffused ambient light from every direction. You really need two for the scenarios described above. If you can only afford to get one - I'd go for the middle of the road and get the ND8. You may be able to get away with just the GND16-8. But In a perfect world I'd get the GND16-8, ND8 and ND16 for snowy winter shots.

[@normality89]

+Frederick Hagan Thanks a lot! And last but not least, would you say Snake River Prototyping ND Filters are the best? Would there be significant difference between SRP and let's say the DJI ND Filters? Also are you always AIMING to shoot shutter speed 50 with your drone footage?Cheers!!

[@FrederickHagan]

+Tomas Uher Don't know about DJI's filter because I've not tried it. Yes SS of 50 is optimally the perfect shutter speed.

[@normality89]

+Frederick Hagan Hi Frederick, I have jot got the SRP Graduated ND 16-8, but looking at it in various angles, there isn't seem to be a difference in the way I rotate the filter. in other words, I thought it's going to be an ND 8 if put one way and an ND 16 if rotated some other way, but I can't see any difference. Is that an issue or did I misunderstood? Cheers, Tomas

[@johnclare77]

You're confusing a circular polarizer with a graduated neutral density filter (GND). A GND is commonly used when the brightness of the shot changes linearly through the scene. For example, bright sky and not as bright ground. You only rotate a GND if the brightness of the scene has slanted from the cameras perspective.

[@Robnord1]

Great explanation and I enjoyed your choice of background music lightly layered over narration. Much more pleasant than typical quad video harsh musical stuff out there for sure.

[@FrederickHagan]

Really appreciate your kind words. The music bed is an original piece I composed for these tutorials. It's called "Bittersweet."

[@MarcodeBigontina-video]

Hi Frederick :-) I take advantage of your wide experience on video editing i touch looking at your video on youtube...so you are using adobe premiere for editing and i was curious to know which computer :-) PC or Apple ? For editing 4K which one do you suggest? Someone told me that also the expensive Mac Pro is not comparable with a less expensive and well furnished (good video hardware) PC.What do you think? IT's long time am using Apple computers/systems because i find them more intuitive of PC operating systems.Is it still true about the video editing software comparing FINAL CUT X and PREMIERE ? In next future i would like to start to edit 4K and i wonder which computer would be better for me...i am not a pro now but i could consider to start to make something nicer on video field...

[@FrederickHagan]

+Marco de Bigontina I'm a long time Mac user. My mac at home is not the best most expensive. I have a 4 core 2012 Mac Pro, 3.2 processor, 32GBs of RAM. It gets a little slow at times but does well editing 4K footage. I have the new Mac Pro at work and yes.... it is EXPENSIVE. From my understanding you can put together a PC editing system for a lot less money. But....you'd be working on a PC and I like the intuitiveness and easy use of Mac computers. I used to work in Final Cut before they released Final Cut X. Long story short... I hated it. So I made the switch to Premiere Pro and LOVE it. Premiere Pro is what Final Cut X should have been IMHO. Lots of people use Final Cut X so I guess it's a matter of just deciding on one and using it. Hope this helps.

[@MarcodeBigontina-video]

+Frederick Hagan thank you very much for your kind reply...will be useful for my next choice...

[@aerialendeavor8363]

I have up graded to a phantom 3 professional i had a blade 350qx3 . I understand the filter for video but just as important is the pictures it takes were the blade fail .Would you give me info on how to make my pic's better all my videos was with my blade Help and thank you

[@FrederickHagan]

+Aerial Endeavor Some of the same rules apply for photo as they do for video when you want to get better results in post. I shoot primarily video so I have limited knowledge with photos on the P3. That said I shoot in full auto mode and RAW format. That way I can have lots of room for retouching and color correction in Photoshop.

[@higherresolution3511]

Hello Frederick - Your videos are inspiring and your contributions are appreciated by me so thank you for everything you do! I live in Scotland (sometimes the skies are even blue!) and looking to get some ND's for my Phantom 3. I'm thinking about just going straight for the SRP line. An ND8 & then a Grad 16/8. I know it's very difficult for you to say but I would appreciate your thoughts if the above would cover my ND needs? Sorry to be a pain but certainly appreciate your friendly nature :) Thank You.

[@FrederickHagan]

+Higher Resolution I'm so sorry I just found your comment. Thanks for the kind words. The must haves are the ND8 and ND16. ND4 comes in handy around dusk or dawn.

[@JulianThe13]

Thanks for the video and explain i did order directly today PolarPro 6 packs ND filters.

[@oneworldvideo]

99% of people doing timelapse videos who cluelessly use high shutter speeds (yes, even the supposed 'pros') NEED to watch this video! ;)

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment and I agree. Motion blur in time lapse is beautiful.

[@MarcosMediavilla]

So, if there aren´t nearby objects (like trees) doesn´t matter use or not to use ND filters?

[@FrederickHagan]

The effect is lessened BUT yes it's still necessary. While you may be "far" from objects, the moment you pan or tilt the camera while filming, that's when you need smooth organic motion blur. Otherwise you'll get that choppy frame movement common in a "video" look vs. cinema look. Even when shooting far from objects but flying fast, you'll need natural motion blur on the edges of the frame where motion is most apparent. Hope this helps.

[@zeusfaber11]

hi man,, this is not related to this particular video but i saw you comented on something similar...i have a phantom 3 professional and for some reason i cannot change the expo values (rudder),, the numbers get red and nothing changes.. what could be the reason?? values goes from 0.2 to 0.8... thnx a lot!!!

[@FrederickHagan]

I've had quirky things like this happen before. Try one of two things: 1. Make sure you're running the latest firmware 2. try completely deleting the DJI app from your mobile device and then install it fresh again. Sometimes that'll fix weird problems such as the one you're having.

[@zeusfaber11]

I fixed the problem))) i changed the language of my tablet to english ( was croatian before).. and now works normally,, was even able to change the max altitude from 120mt to 500.. something i wasn t able to do before.. thnx anyway for the quick reply,, I m a passionate newbie, so afraid this is not my last question)))

[@rafal8614]

Hi. Im actually using ND filters from POLARPRO but my image gets very blurry, not sharp like Yours. Is this a problem of shutter speed. I have Phantom 4 camera. No issues with default UV filter.

[@FrederickHagan]

As long as your shutter speed doesn't go below 50 you should be fine. Check to make sure your filters aren't dirty or scratched

[@FrederickHagan]

It's hard to determine what you mean by "gets very blurry". Motion blur due to the proper shutter speed is the natural and correct way to shoot video though.

[@FrederickHagan]

It's hard to determine what you mean by "gets very blurry". Motion blur due to the proper shutter speed is the natural and correct way to shoot video though.

[@YardLimit]

I see that you video trains as do I. Doesn't the ND filter blur the motion of the train?

[@FrederickHagan]

Yes it does unless the camera follows the motion of the train.

[@dakumar6742]

Thank you on both accounts Frederick! It's much appreciated!

[@natserog]

can you share a link to buy one ND filter for Phantom 3 pro?

[@Michael_00001]

+natserog www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WMJDPZ4?colid=1RHC1Q1IX74IR&coliid=I1LO6KPHF9HKLI&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

[@jimgates1132]

The reason I don't use ND filters is because when I shoot in 4K video I can extract high quality stills in addition to the video. The slight staccato effect does not bother me. If I was not going to use stills extracted from the video, then the ND filter would be fine although a hassle to get the right density as the light changes constantly.

[@FrederickHagan]

Jim Gates Absolutely. If your main goal is photographic screen grabs from 4K video footage an ND is unnecessary. Then again screen grabs with motion blur in them can be quite stunning and energetic. It's very subjective and depends on what you're trying to achieve. Thanks for commenting.

[@GoingTroppo]

Thanks for this great info, I saw the other colour grading video too which is great. Thanks for sharing! I will definitely buy ND filter now, I have a gopro 3 black on my p2, would you know any good quality filter for it, and what ND you recon? Thanks !

[@FrederickHagan]

MrTobbsie Thanks for the comment. And yes I have the perfect filter for your P2/GoPro setup. It's the same ones I use with my other quad that's also a P2 with GoPro. BlurFix Air by Snake River Prototyping. www.snakeriverprototyping.com/blurfix-air-slip-over-filters These has the best quality glass out there IMHO. They are also the ones I used to film the footage used in the first color and grading tutorial I did. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6vFgmeOn7SihZI Start with the ND8. That one is a real workhorse and can be used for most lighting situations. Later I'd add the ND16 as it's perfect for full on midday sun. Both come in an ND/CP version (Neutral Density/Circular Polarizer)if you'd want dual performance in one filter.

[@peterkapusi5882]

Dear Frederick, Thank you for the great videos. I am a newbie in the action cam / drone world. I am about to buy a Phantom 3 prof for aerial and Hero4 Black for other (pov, stick) videos. I i see you recommend to have an ND filter pack for Phantom 3. What about normal Gopro videos? I see it is not your wheelhouse, anyway you might have an idea if I should invest into ND (ND-PL as well?!) filters shooting normal (not arieal) videos as well. What do you think? Have a great voice btw :)

[@FrederickHagan]

+Péter Kapusi Thanks for the kind words. For non-arial GoPro filters I'd go with snakeriverprototyping.com. They make the best ND and PL filters by far for the GoPro. They're called BlurFix filters by SRP. Professional quality glass and craftsmanship as well as great customer service. I love them so much I have a full set for both of my Hero 4 cameras.

[@peterkapusi5882]

+Frederick Hagan Thank you for your quick reaction. I am tryin to compary PolarPro with SRP. I can see a pack on SRP's website which contains: BlurFix3+ 55 adapter for the Hero3/3+/4 standard housing55 mm SRP Water Repelling CP Filter55 mm Tiffen ND0.6 Filter55 mm Tiffen ND0.9 FilterIs it enough? Are those like an ND6 and an ND9 filter? I am only asking, because I could not find any PL filters on their website. Polarpro for Gopro contains these lens: CP, ND8, ND16, ND32, ND8/PL, ND16/PL So you recommend buying the upper SRP pack?

[@FrederickHagan]

+Péter Kapusi Yes it is a little confusing as SRP makes a bunch of GoPro filters. Go to this page.... www.snakeriverprototyping.com/blurfix-air-slip-over-filters This has every filter that you would need. UV, ND and ND/CP combinations. I would start with the basics... ND8 and ND16. Add more filters once you have had a chance to see how the ND8 and 16 perform. Again the quality of SRP glass is incredible. Be cautious because many other ND filters manufactures make there lenses out of plastic. Cheap junk stuff.

[@peterkapusi5882]

+Frederick Hagan Okay, so with air slip over filters you dont need adapter, right? Should I rather choose just ND without CP? And one more question I wanted to ask about your vidos. Have you thought about filming those in 50/60 fps? I know it is only 1080p, but the motion would be ultra nice with more blur and everything: Btw I do not have a 4k resolution playback device, maybe this is why I am even pretending this is a good idea :D

[@PhannyObsession]

How do I know which level Filter to use when I've got a 'one chance' situation? I'll be in Barbados in a few months and will be filming a lot on the beach and over water. ND Filters or Polarising? If you look at the two 'test' videos I have uploaded, you'll see the colour is 'washed' out. Now, I don't know if that's just down to the weather or if that's just the way it is. I've got a few more months to practice and would really like to get some nice shots while i'm over there (and here over the summer)

[@FrederickHagan]

+DJI Phantom 3 Aerial Videos Unfortunately there's not a quick answer to your questions as there are so many variables when filming aerials. But you mentioned "practice" and that's the key. Shoot enough with ND's and you'll be able to assess the situation on site to know what filter will at least get you safely in the ball park. For beach and sand I'd make sure you have an ND16 at least. An ND8 with full on midday sun on the beach will likely not stop the light down enough.

[@mikeybajan]

+Frederick Hagan - Thanks. Lots of practice it is!! 👍

[@Wrecksy]

Anyone know if the Phantom 4 filters work on the Phantom 4 Pro as well? I can't find this info anywhere!

[@Wrecksy]

Polar Pro contacted me and let me know they do NOT work with the Phantom 4 pro but they have new ones coming soon.

[@FrederickHagan]

No I'm afraid they are too small for the Phantom 4 Pro's larger camera. PolarPro is suppose to be releasing these soon.

[@ronjose51]

Definitely right on the statement amount people coming from a photography background. Thank you 👍

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment, Jose.

[@MarcodeBigontina-video]

Very interesting...now i understand, very clear explanation :-) Thank you so much Only one question...do you mean the system automatically select a specific shutter speed when i select 24fps or others like 60pfs? or i need to select also the suitable shutter speed in the DJI app menù?

[@FrederickHagan]

+Marco de Bigontina You'll need to set the fps ANDthe shutter speed manually. So for 24\25fps the S.S. would need to be 50. For 60fps the S.S. would need to be set to 125.

[@seberila]

+Frederick Hagan what about ISO? Is there a rule of thumb for what to do with that? Perhaps you could do a video showing how to set up manual exposure please?

[@FrederickHagan]

+Laurence Seberini That's an easy one. It always depends on the strength of the camera. Optimally we'd always shoot everything at ISO 100 if we could. That's the best image quality with the absolute least amount of noise. The higher the ISO, the higher the noise that will be present in your footage. The P3's camera is not a stellar performer in this category (Just like the GoPro Hero 4 because of their very tiny sensors.) It's footage starts to become noisy at 400... and unusable at 800. So for me, I rarely shoot with an ISO above 400 on the P3.

[@seberila]

+Frederick Hagan ok great thanks. So what I now understand is to achieve the shutter speed of double your fps you need a filter. Without out it the exposure will be too high.

[@FrederickHagan]

+Laurence Seberini 100% Exactly. The ND stops the light down so you can set the shutter speed to a lower more manageable cinematic speed like 50 in bright shooting conditions.

[@superstarbreeze]

what is the different between the nd8 nd16 and the grad 16-8

[@FrederickHagan]

An ND8 is dark where as the ND16 filter is darker. The graduated ND16-8 is dark on top (like an ND16) and graduates to the lighter ND8'on bottom.

[@AndyWoodger]

What ND filter is best to use? The weather in the clip does look similar to mine here in the UK so stopping too much light wouldn't such a good idea. Is an ND 8 best for cloudy more dark seasons and 16 for summer or brighter conditions?

[@FrederickHagan]

An ND8 should be good for most of your cloudy weather conditions. Perhaps later try an ND4. An ND16 is necessary for mild clouds to full on sun.

[@AndyWoodger]

Interesting watching your video, by the way, on the stuttering filming. I've been watching a few videos and some really do stutter!! Thanks for the advice.

[@FrederickHagan]

Thanks for the comment.

[@AndyWoodger]

Another question regarding filters. I've the Phantom 3 advance on order which, I think I'm right in saying, it doesn't record RAW. I'm assuming that you'd tweak things post filming to get all your colours.....sorry, colors sorted. Would you recommend using a polariser?

[@FrederickHagan]

No, I don't use polarizer filters.

[@osyopans]

Any tips for night shooting? It's not possible to use filters, right?

[@FrederickHagan]

Leônidas Yopán You're correct in assuming filters would be useless at night. The Phatom 3 seems to have a decent capability for photos in dark environments. Especially with longer exposures and only in RAW. But for video it's not exactly a night camera. That said it depends how much light is available. If you shooting a downtown city scene at night you could probably get decent results. Regardless I wouldn't raise my ISO above 400 as it introduces way too much noise for acceptable and professional quality video.

[@asierfilms]

Hi, the cheap (no original) filters in ebay (12 dollars) is like the original filters in dji (30 dollars)?

[@FrederickHagan]

+asier schwarzlose Not sure what your asking. If the "cheap" filters you're referring to are gel inserts, then no. They are not like the DJI $30 filters.

[@asierfilms]

+Frederick Hagan the image quality is different in the gel filters?

[@FrederickHagan]

+asier schwarzlose Yes. The image from glass filters is always cleaner and more crisp than with a gel filter. Plus, gel filters scratch and smudge easier and it's harder to clean them.

[@asierfilms]

Frederick Hagan Thanks!!