FRESH AIR - simple HRV - (Easy Making)

[@tyronelannister9922]

This video saved me $500

[@wesdiezy]

Brilliant! I love this design and am looking forward to copying it. Its weird that all the other videos on the same subject try to overcomplicate things while this design is much easier and seemingly more effective than the other tube or corrugated plastic designs. Will definitly include this when I eventually get around to building a tiny house. It feels so great when you can make something that sells for $1000 for $20.

[@pauljeglum9786]

I'm all about backyard inventors since I consider myself one. Good on you Jobe. Keep INVENT'IN!!! 👍

[@blokkenpiloot]

everything i needed to know while being short and positively vibed, thanks!

[@tgamirov]

Foreign levels of out-of-the-box creativity and resourcefulness detected. Temps displayed in Celsius is the final confirmation that you are not American.

[@benlemon849]

german engineering at its finest!

[@Alexander-Herman]

Romania

[@moonolyth]

I think this is out of the box thinking myself!!! More betta than others I've seen regarding foils and simplicity. Jobe well done for a prototype. it could get a little more fancy but simple is sometimes harder to come up with. I'm wondering if it would be more efficient making longer and if use thinner aluminum as in (thick foil). The air in my basement is not great and I do some jewelry work in one room it would be nice to evacuate fumes and save some cash using an exchanger. Georgia gets nice and toasty/cold in winter too. I'll be building a traditional unit much larger later with the corrugated plastic.... think the fancy ones are made of, but this is great!! Thanks for posting this is what KZbin is all about!!

[@sierraecho884]

Well done, that´s a rather clever and easy to build solution.

[@ministerulmagiei]

that is unexpectedly efficient. having fresh air at aprox. 15 degrees when the average temp is slightly above 15 degrees (inside is 22 and outside is 8) is extremely efficient for that small setup. have you tried decreasing the airflow for the fan that brings air from the outside? If the fans have different speeds you might be able to obtain fresh air with higher temps and avoid condensation by not cooling the hot air from the house below it's dew point. I doubt condensation would happen if the room has fresh air heated and then cooled back to half it's original temperature (because by heating air you decrease it's humidity and by cooling it only to it's original temperature it won't reach it's original dew point) If you take fresh air from the outside at 8 degrees, it's dew point will be lower like 3 degrees, and if you heat that up by bringing it inside it will have the same water vapor in it, which means it's dew point will remain the same even if now it has 22 degrees, and after it gets pulled into the exchanger it will be cooled to 15 degrees like the fresh air that goes the opposite direction. The only reason for it to cause condensation is if you have a water source in the room. Unless you're working out in that room, your breathing alone is never going to raise the dew point from 3 to 15. If the room isn't loosing pressure you could just use a single fan that forces air out, and that would create negative pressure on the other opening that would suck fresh air in at a lower speed that would allow it to maybe heat up a bit more than the average temperature between the room and the outside. Probably the room isn't that airtight and it's probably a bad idea but still worth a try just for the possible 50% energy savings by using a single fan instead of two. Congrats on the build! I wish I'd have the courage to try!

[@nosequiters]

could you go into more detail as too how you would do this

[@ministerulmagiei]

@@nosequiters sure, I would use a single board such as raspberry 0 which doesn't have wifi or anything else, should be around 10 USD/EUR, connect to it a humidity sensor and a fan. The fan ideally should be a centrifugal one, similar to laptops, not the ones with the blades which are used in old desktops, because are more efficient to generate pressure diferences. I hope it is helpful for you, feel free to ask more

[@ministerulmagiei]

@@nosequiters another combination could be to have 2 temperature sensors, one in the room and a secondary sensor outside, to calculate the ideal air speed

[@HugoQM]

Simple, Smart and Cost Effective, thanks for sharing!

[@danielseddon3177]

Love the simplicity.

[@1972Suburban]

Very clever ! I am interested whether there is air "leakage" down the length of the folded aluminum since it is not sealed? Thanks for the ideas ,I have a 3D printer which produces odors which need to be vented outside.I think this would be perfect with smaller computer fans since just a small volume of air exchange will solve the problem.I will add a drain since I expect condensation with large differences in Canadian winter temperatures. Thanks again.

[@247chiranjeevi]

this is so simple. awesome. You're super smart. maybe you could make it more efficient by having more exchange area.

[@blinddog1212]

Very nice job! Love simple and creative DIY projects like this. Are you still using the DIY HRV today?

[@kevinmcgrath3591]

Well designed, congrats. Im wondering if you did a smoke test to see if air got recirculated in the locality of the two fans - in other words does the expelling fan draw from the other fan being so close together?

[@glidercoach]

But what does it do? Hot air coming into the house will heat the metal and cooler air going outside will cool the metal. It achieves nothing. You must radiate the heat of the metal without expelling the cool air of the house, if you want to cool the house. Like a heat pump.

[@kevinmcgrath3591]

@@glidercoach en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_recovery_ventilation

[@glidercoach]

@@kevinmcgrath3591 Yes, you just confirmed my comment. Your link shows a proper heat pump. This is not a heat pump.

[@obsidianjane4413]

@@glidercoach Did you even read the linked article? It does not describe a heat pump which uses phase change of a pumped carrier. This is a way to recover some of the temperature difference that would otherwise be lost between outside air and inside air that you are expelling as they pass thru the separate sides of the duct.

[@v31.48]

@@glidercoachthis is just heat recovery ventilation. VENTILATION. Did you see a compressor anywhere?? Nope. You can’t make a heatpump without a compressor. No this is NOT a heatpump setup.

[@will_doherty]

Nice video - I like the simple concept, thanks for taking the time to produce and upload it. Spraying (or painting) the contact surfaces of the heat exchanger unit with a coat of matt black paint should increase the efficiency of your unit by a notable degree.

[@rajdude1]

Ummm....no. Black colored stuff works only if sunlight is falling on it and the heat exchanger needs to absorb light & IR radiation and convert it to heat. For example in a solar water heater on someone's root. Look inside your home's AC. Look at the heat-exchanger coils there. You can look at the fins of your heat pump which is outside and easily accessible. Are they black painted?

[@will_doherty]

@@rajdude1 My statement wasn't conjecture, it's a fact the matt black painted bodies both absorb and emit infrared more efficiently than any other colour. Whether the sun is shining is not an issue, since much of the infrared on earth is not directly absorbed from the sun. The fact that aesthetics and cost rule over efficiency is nothing new - the most glaring example of such stupidity is household radiators coming in a white finish, which is pretty much only worse than reflective silver for efficiency. You could ask yourself why space blankets have a highly reflective internal surface, and why thermal imaging cameras need to be calibrated to a certain emissivity and are inaccurate if then used on a different type of surface. If you still have doubts, I'd humbly suggest doing some research - the information is all there to be found...

[@rajdude1]

@@will_doherty Yes, I agree with you on "matt black painted bodies both absorb and emit infrared more efficiently". But inside his dark foam tube, is there infrared? IDK. Isn't this a simple air-to-metal-to-air heat transfer? Maybe I am thinking it wrong; so I will do more research on this topic. Thanks for responding 🙂

[@rajdude1]

@@will_doherty so yeah, I do see they even sell condenser coil paint on Amazon, so I guess you are correct. But my physics mind is a little confused. With nowhere to "radiate" the heat, because his aluminum fins are inside a box made out of thick insulation material, will painting them black help? Same argument as the heat radiators you mentioned above surely should be painted black, but why the AC coil inside my air handler (the inside unit of my heat-pump system) in my basement is simple aluminum, not black painted. Why?

[@will_doherty]

@@rajdude1 Thanks for checking out what I said - I'm very pleased that you did. All bodies at all temperatures (down to -273C as I recall) emit energy in the form of infrared. (In fact, I just checked, and that is correct.) I'm not sure how much of the heat exchange in this simple unit is due to infrared absorption/radiation and how much is by conduction, but I believe the matt black finish would make a significant difference. To address your last point, I suspect many things that are manufactured are not finished in matt black due to cost saving, and at the end of the day the losses in efficiency are going to be paid for by the end user, not the manufacturer. When I was educated in the UK many years ago, we experimented with this exact scenario in testing the effect of infrared transmission and absorption by several identical objects finished in various colours and smoothness. The differences were very significant and thus obvious to see, which is something that has stuck in my mind over the years.

[@nixonsmateruby1]

Love it, it's basically a large heat sink that you get in a PC. I would add a filter. The type used in breathing machines like CPAP is thin. Also, could this work room to room instead of outside?

[@PoloNius67]

The music 🎵🎶 tho 👍🏾

[@mike_jay]

Hi, great project. What is the foam board construction material called please.

[@EdoPlantinga]

looks like XPS to me

[@SapioiT]

Please make a version with more turns for the zig-zag (more zig-zags), and with more length for the zig-zags while also increasing the distance between the corners of the zig-zags. This will likely increase the efficiency, resulting in the temperature difference between the inside temperature and fresh air being lower.

[@nps-ddpsavinglives]

Nice build Smart!! How do you address condensation?

[@LaineyBug2020]

If I were to use this for a bike camper, would I be able to make it smaller, or would this size still be needed?

[@steviewondek]

This looks great, have been looking for ideas to make a cheap heat exchanger as I only have one window in my room facing busy street, I have to keep closed to stop noise and privacy but need air not to be cold, all other I have seen very expensive to make, need workshop fancy tools etc. could you please say what material you made the element out of? is it just aluminum foil like you glued on the insides?

[@BCreativeDIY]

Hello. I'm glad you find my approach interesting. I have built the 0.5 mm thick aluminum sheet heat exchanger. I inserted this exchanger into the tube as shown in the video without any sealing, I just made sure it took up all the space up to the ends and to the sides. Because there is no high pressure I decided is not mandatory to have a seal between the incoming and outgoing air. The walls of the tube are made of extruded polystyrene and for this reason I thought of gluing some foil on them. Initially I wanted to paint them with a washable but I did not have available.

[@prsrvz]

@@BCreativeDIY Great video! I’m having trouble finding the aluminum heat exchanger where do you find it?

[@gelisob]

@@prsrvz just fold some thin aluminium sheet metal

[@albertodomfer]

impresionante, se puede mejorar facilmente poniendo filtros de carbon activos y de polvo.

[@budmartin3344]

Great design. BTW, can you please tell me what kind of glues you are using on the foam and for mounting the fans? Thanks!

[@simonlinser8286]

Its spray foam used for the foam board it bonds it... like the expanding foam....

Very interesting design - thanks! How big is your aluminium plate?

[@Alexander-Herman]

Гениально!

[@AndriiRabinovych]

That's awesome😮

[@timd1191]

huh. cool. wonder how well it works?

[@kewintaylor7056]

Nice idea.

[@vinny7168]

very good job !!!!!!!

[@unclepaul8331]

why didn't you install a hepa filter, definitely a filter at least on the intake?

[@spencero2076]

Does this work for when its hotter outside than in? Like in Arizona, where I live?

[@kevinmcgrath3591]

Yes, as he says "a separation element exchanges the temperature with the fresh air that enters." - meaning cold air going out will reduce the temperature of the air coming in

[@jemarfrancis348]

❤quality woke up ok

[@jazzehenderson]

is that enough to cold your room for that PC Fan?

[@AChi__]

Smart stuff 👍🏽

[@BCreativeDIY]

Thanks for appreciation .

[@GoatZilla]

Go easy on the glue there buddy... Condensation seems like it will be an issue. Wonder if you could just design it at an angle so it just drains out.

[@maxsss03]

What is that purple material called?

[@kondordv]

very nice and simple design, but there is ventilators which needs power supply and consumption. There must be calculated the efficiency. How about natural interchange of air without ventilators? What's the volume of air per hour interchanged according to difference of temperature?

[@obsidianjane4413]

You have to push the ventilation with a fan anyway so other than some resistance due to the increased boundary layer drag of the corrigated heat exchanger wall, efficiency is minimal compared to needing to heat/cool unconditioned air. A vertical exchanger can take advantage of convection, but its not as effective as actively pushing it with a fan.

[@happyvlog4672]

what kind of adhesive did you use

[@uncleposter]

I would need a filter on mine, but the concept here is solid. However, isn’t this an ERV and not an HRV since anyone living in hot and humid climates won’t get any humidity removed?

[@RaglansElectricBaboon]

We call them 'Heat Recovery Ventilation' here in NZ. So I guess that's the H?

[@tsunghan_yu]

I think you got it reversed. HRV deals with heat and ERV deals with other "energy" including humidity

[@Custom_Tundra_XFire_Audio]

Congratulation you have learned the art of making a box!

[@benroberts127]

ahh, good technique!

[@amakkos]

Can you please tell me the thickness of the aluminium plate? It seems to be thicker than soda can (0.2 mm as I measured)

[@wesdiezy]

Most likely it is .2mm aluminum flashing, which is pretty cheap and easy to get from a hardware store.

[@makoado6010]

nice. but u have to know the poliuretan foam esp/eps hardly emmit voc. only safe materials the pvc, pp, abs, nylon, pla, metal

[@RPI_4]

how do You Catch and dispose the condens water? You need to come with another solution, because this ist v.0001 i Hope.

[@BCreativeDIY]

I thought that if I tilt it outwards then the condensation will flow outside . The problem occurs if there is too much condensation and it is too cold outside, then at some point ice will form :). First I would like to make some more rigorous measurements related to efficiency and then I think of other details.

[@axel9546]

Whats the difference btw this project and a real air ventilation product?

[@tyronelannister9922]

$500

[@23lkjdfjsdlfj]

$4,500.00 USD

[@hadiprayitno8632]

It's Working sir ? Thanks

[@glumpy2137]

I calculate the efficiency to be 47.8% . Assuming the fans are 56.3 CFM each, that's 0.414 kW of heat exchanged.

[@glidercoach]

How do you calculate this? The hot air heating the plate coming in, is being cooled by cooler air from the house. If your goal is to cool the house why would you use this cooler air to cool the metal?

[@pop44n89]

The goal is to minimize the energy used to heat / cool the house while drawing in outside air. So you pre heat / cool the air coming in using the energy from exhaust.

[@pop44n89]

Outside 8. Fresh air in 15. So gained 7 through the heat exchanger. 7/15=~47%.

[@ahmetkaratas542]

👌👍👏

[@MAHEBE14]

Un radiador interculer de un coche el que se usa para enfriar el aire Turbo tendría que ir bien

[@RaglansElectricBaboon]

Yes, and also expensive!

[@DIYwithBatteries]

I think you need more cpu fans, isn't enough with one mate 😊👍

[@BCreativeDIY]

Actually there are two fans, one introduces air and one blows out. It works quite well because there are no filters that require more pressure.

[@DIYwithBatteries]

@@BCreativeDIY yeah I know there are two lol but still it works great with more fans ;)

[@BRP-Moto-Tips]

I actually runned the math about 15 minutes ago and I found out that one 10x10 mm cpu cooler can change the air in a room with about 7.5 cubic meters around 4 times per hour, that for my use case is as good as it gets. I'm amazed, I can't believe a CPU cooler moves that much air

[@anonanonkiewicz1921]

Airflow numbers in fans specification are usually measured at 0 pressure drop. So that number doesnt apply to real life. Slow, axial fans can be easily choked to near zero airflow with a filter.

[@will_doherty]

Adding more fans in this particular circumstance would be detrimental. The heat exchanger in this unit is in fact undersized for the airflow with the two existing fans, evidenced by the modest ~47% efficiency as noted elsewhere in the comments by another contributor. The efficiency of this unit could be increased by enlarging the heat exchanger, if it were increased by a large amount then more airflow could be added.

[@Trikkie87]

Idea is solid, but you should really educate yourself on the dangers of some plastics. Polystyrene is a material you really dont want your air to go through!

[@nommy8599]

You're kind of a dick making a comment like that, telling people something might be dangerous but not why, if you knew. I don't get some people.

[@AutodidactEngineer]

You need airflow fans!! The ones you used are static pressure and aren't as good for high airflow applications

[@kevinmcgrath3591]

but wouldn't high airflow require a much longer metal exchanger plate? the low airflow ones used probably are fine for such a short box? I guess this is intended to just get some fresh air gently over a long time period rather than none at all.

[@glidercoach]

I'm at a loss on what this does. If it's hotter outside than it is on the inside and you want to cool the house, it will heat the house. The metal plate serves no purpose.

[@BlacksmithGen]

If it's colder outside then this would heat the fresh air coming in to keep your house warmer. If it's hot outside and you are using ac, then it would cool the incoming hot air and keep your house cooler. The whole point of this thing is getting some fresh air into the house though.

[@glidercoach]

@@BlacksmithGen Within minutes, the temperature of the plate would equalise with the incoming outside air, rendering it useless. To make it work, you would need a system to keep the plate hotter or colder than the incoming outside air. Also a plate has very little surface area and is not efficient. It would need fins like an air conditioning evaporator core, to heat or cool the air efficiently. This whole thing makes no sense.

[@BlacksmithGen]

@@glidercoach the internal air is the system that makes the plate hotter or colder. That's where the heat exchange is happening. I agree though there are lots of ways of making this more efficient but all at much more expense. But I think as it is it'll keep working so long as there is some heat differential between inside and out.

[@glidercoach]

@@BlacksmithGen It's an eyesore and not worth the trouble.

[@BlacksmithGen]

@@glidercoach I'd make sure you don't accidentally make one and install it into your house then I guess.

[@patrickpopescu2314]

Ok , the video is very cool but the start video is cringe AF

[@BCreativeDIY]

Thank you for the feedback. I have tried to add a new level of complexity to my videos and that's all I managed for the moment 😅 .

[@RaglansElectricBaboon]

@@BCreativeDIY Its just fine dude, don't worry :)

[@cosminanton3901]

That's just wrong, you shouldn't use metal, you've just introduced a cold bridge, I'll bet anything, when it is cold outside, this is worse than opening a window.

[@SankiKingOfficial]

Bet the $5 in your bank acc

[@IvoPavlik]

That "cold bridge" is the main functional element of this system. It's the reason why it recovers heat in the first place 😀

[@ryguy781]

There is no way those 4 inch PC fans move enough air to do what you want them to do.