front wheel pt2

[@aarongarceau4053]

Following this right now as I do this with the front wheel of my 1971 BSA Lightning. Thanks so much, your channel is great as I dive into this bike! Cheers from the colonies...

[@lunmad]

Hi Aaron :-) you are welcome as your Bsa has conical hubs they are just the same, glad to be of help.

[@JamesCouch777]

Thank you for sharing, you have the only conical hub disassembly on KZbin that I could find, excellent 👍

[@davecavesnr]

Cheers mate, another very helpful video, I followed your clutch assembly video previously, it was spot on, remembering to fit the clutch spring bolts first! :)

[@andrewritchie1699]

Excellent video. I'm about to do this job and this has helped enormously. Thank you.

[@lunmad]

Hi Andrew :-) thank you glad to help.

[@estoniaman]

Oh... I have problems with my front wheel. Very educational, sure need it :).

[@lunmad]

Hi @ddumbbirdss :-) not such a dumb question , heat expands the alloy slightly making it easier to insert the bearing touchable hot is hot enough.

[@jameswsampson]

Also, are you running a spacer between the shoulder of the axle and the bearing you're about to put on at 5:09? I can't quite tell if it's a loose spacer or part of the shoulder/flange of the axle.

[@441rider]

Ahh your mad! you need to sharpen a screw driver and pry that dust cover off. LOL! Well done and shown, perhaps I'll do the 8" '69 TLS video?

[@A10WUK]

Hello do you know what the offset distance should be? Thank you.

[@stevebeckett4555]

aup lunmad ,if I use sealed bearings do I still have to use the grease retainer caps, inner outer and one on the drive side?crackin videos mate by the way,steve

[@lunmad]

Hi Steve :-) You can still use them, as they will keep the spacing as was. There is usually enough thread on the retainers to omit them.

[@colincampbell2153]

Very useful video thanks. But I cringed at 6.20 'ish when you hammer the bearing in using the shaft. That damages the new bearing. Like the other side the bearing should be pressed or knocked in by force applied to the outer bearing. Tubing or old box spanners are good - I like to use an old bearing outer for that job.

[@aarongarceau4053]

When I did this job I found that the bearing went in fairly easily to the hub, the problem was getting it over the spindle. If I had hit only the outer bearing all the pressure would have been pushing up on the inner and deformed it. I did mine this same way.

[@carltorjusen558]

l have a bunch of triumphs(71,73,76) l'm replacing old" bare wire"(re John Mayall album BARE WIRES) spokes with stainless steel . what are the inch/pounds (or newton/meters in your country)torque settings?? don't know if you'll ever reply as this goes way back to 2010

[@ddumbbirdss]

quick question, may sound stupid, but why do you have to use heat before inserting the bearings?

[@helliermason5910]

Awesome thanks

[@jameswsampson]

Thanks for replying! I'm using a workshop manual. The drum's off a 1964 T120. After purchasing new sealed bearings, I've assembled the hub according to the manual but the outside lip of the drum is scraping/fouling on the outside edge of the hub. Something's a miss. I also made up a 2mm stainless shim to go between the bearing and drum to give it clearance but still no luck.

[@johncummins8863]

A bit late for this and correct me if I'm wrong but at 1.55 lunmad drives out left hand bearing from the right hand side of wheel. At 2.18 he removes a spacer having turned the wheel over. At 6.15 he puts the axle with new bearing attached to it without inserting a spacer first. What happened to the spacer?

[@lunmad]

Hi James no it's just the shoulder on the shaft take a look here and you can download the manuals :- classicbike biz hope this help ya.

[@malcolmcasson3571]

Never seen one where the circlip is behind the outer grease shield?

[@AIRMANBEAR]

THAT WAS MY PROBLEM ITS NOT OBVIOUS AND I COULDNT GET T EH AXELOOUT AS A RESULT AND THEN COULDNT GET IT ON MY TIRE MACHINE..IDIOT DESIGN ..

[@JamesCouch777]

Me either. On mine the shield is under the circlip.

[@lunmad]

Hi James that sounds pretty normal, It is to take away any machining irregularities. A manual is invaluable especially for exploded drawings if you have not got one you should get one. What bike is the drum off?

[@lunmad]

Hi @estoniaman :-) most drum breaks are similar with similar set ups. What bike do you have?

[@jameswsampson]

Appreciate if anyone could help. I have a twin leading shoe front hub and noticed when I pulled it apart that the circlip was put on after the dust cap on the non-drum side. I also noticed the hub is stepped on the drum side with a flange on the axle to hold the drum-side bearing in place, however on the non-drum side there is neither a step in the hub nor flange on the axle to stop the bearing from floating (except for a grease retainer that seems loose in that side anyway). is this normal?

[@estoniaman]

It isn't actually a bike, it is a moped :D . But principle is same. It is Riga-30 (Riga Mini), made in Latvia, when Baltic States were under the Soviet Russian control, about 40s-90s (Riga factory operated from 60's to 1992). My machine is made in 1985-1992. Last owner did a lot of modifications, now it's a chopper. Front wheel is wobbling, because space between one bearing and housing is too wide. If you want to, I can send pictures of this machine and video of it is in my channel.

[@estoniaman]

Somehow space between text sections were missing. I hope it isn't uncomfortable to read.

[@AIRMANBEAR]

WHAT STUPID DESIGN YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE CLIP RING TO GET THE AXEL OUT..?? NO WONDER THEY WENT OUT OF BUSINESS..

[@matth3004]

are you not concerned with breathing in asbestos dust?

[@lunmad]

I try not to breath through mouth, and hold my breath a lot, there is no asbestos in modern brake liners but any dust is bad for you. Wearing a mask is good, staying away from dust is better but no fun!

[@colincampbell2153]

Recommend using brake cleaner - and paper wipes - not rags as they need to get binned straight away. The linings may well be old - real asbestos in an old bike. Not worth taking chances with the stuff. certainly not cool to blow it into the air and contaminate the room or clothing.