Replacing the bearings on a Kenmore HE3t front load washer. (Part 2) By How-to Bob

[@LovelyWaifu]

Thank you so much for these videos. I was able to fix my washer instead of dropping hundreds of dollars on a new one when it only cost me about $60 to buy the parts, grease, and snap ring pliers. It was tough to do mostly alone but I did it! I'm super proud of myself and I couldn't have done it without your videos. It was a heck of an experience but I would absolutely do it again if needed.

[@funbro1]

Awesome! Thanks for watching.

[@mikefowler1262]

These are the best instructional videos I have ever seen on KZbin. I was able to buy bearings for $50.00 instead of $347.00 for a new outer tub or $1500 for a new machine! Really, thank you for making and sharing these videos.

[@funbro1]

AWESOME! Thanks for watching

[@tonyc2854]

This is an absolutely brilliant set of instructions! 10 years later and still bringing on the joy, good work! t

[@RobertJohnson-iy5vy]

Great help. Got me through the job, would not have been able to tackle this without the great step by step. My washer was a whirlpool duet. Removing the front panel I found the clean out trap. Opened it up and there were two dimes, a drill bit and some other bits. My inner bearing was rusty and pretty much frozen. Went pretty smoothly except for reattaching the hoses with those horrible clamps. Thank you for taking the time to post this helpumentory.

[@funbro1]

Glad to hear that the video was a help, Thanks for watching.

[@tombrowne1067]

Well done. Followed these instructions for a Kenmore HE4 and achieved success, with one additional suggestion. When installing the new outer bearing, a 2x4 will get the bearing flush with the bearing housing, but will not fully seat the bearing. You'll need a 2-3/8" block to seat it fully in the bearing housing. This is necessary to ensure the spindle will insert in the outer bearing and you can install the snap ring after outer drum assembly. The 5 gallon pail is genius suggestion. Thanks for the post!

[@funbro1]

Thanks for watching.

[@CanadianMatt1]

Just completed this repair today. Makes things easier that I am an auto mechanic so had all the tools and skills to do. But your video was a game changer sir. Thanks so much!!

[@JimmyLeeHook]

I know I posted a great compliment already, but that was before I did the tear down. Now that I've done it, allow me to add another thumbs up to these two videos. Great job!! Some suggestions....consider replacing the heater while you're in there. It's $50 on eBay. Over time, they are prone to corrosion and shorting out. Might as well take care of it while you're in there. A new outer tub gasket is only $12, it might be cheap insurance to replace it as well. This is also a good time to take a look at your detergent and softener dispensing system to make sure the cam is operating correctly and looks good. Lastly, you should check the shaft for fretting and other damage before installing your bearings. Otherwise, if the fit is loose, you'll continue to have shaking and premature bearing failure. This is a terrific video, and I thank you again for posting.

[@theblade9024]

Not the most enjoyable job I have ever done but with the help of this video I was able to successfully replace the bearings. Noise be gone now! No water leaks either. Thanks for posting this video.

[@funbro1]

michael picard I agree not too fun at all but think of the savings. Thanks for watching.

[@brianmcconnell7346]

Bob, Thank you for taking the time to share your wisdom and expertise. I tackled the project and appear to be back up and washing. Here is what I found: I ordered bearings from EBay for $40. My 7 year and I took the washer apart per your video. I found the original bearings appeared OK yet the spider on the back of the basket had cracked after ten years causing the symptoms of blown bearings . I called Sears and talked with some very helpful folks. Negotiated a $97 tech visit who then approved a new basket and new front tub half for free (approximately a $550 part value $1200 with labor). I replaced the bearings anyway, the basket, and the front half tub in approximately four hours. All appears to function and wash without problems. My only concern is the outer bearing as it required a little extra incentive to seat and I noted the bearing cover was marred and lose as a result of my hammer and wooden dowel. Still, for my time and $140, I have my fingers crossed and intened to have another sudsy ten years. Thank you again. All the best, Brian

[@funbro1]

That is great to hear that the video helped and you are back up and washing...and you saved some money by doing it yourself.

[@vinnyboombatz4294]

funbro1 How To I have a gas fired HE4T how much diiferent is the install?

[@apollon722]

That tub is really heavy! Before I reinstalled it, I unbolted and removed all the weights. It was much easier reassembling without them. Once in place I bolted the weights back. Thanks for making this video!

[@funbro1]

If you have problems lifting the tub you can take the extra steps to remove and replace the weights. Thanks for watching.

[@tadhollister5854]

I really really like how you enplane everything from start to finish.Moslty in simple terms. I feel like I could do this with no problems after seeing this video. Most people don't show the re-installation portion. Thanks again.

[@funbro1]

Thanks for the comment. I appreciate it. Glad it helped.

[@thostube13]

The internet is awesome for videos like these. Thanks so much for taking the time to post it. I'm sure things will go a lot easier when I attempt to replace the bearings on my washer.

[@funbro1]

thostube13 Thanks for watching

[@marthallorens1721]

Nicely done. You were very precise with your directions. You teaching pace was very easy to keep up with. I leaned a lot in a small amount of time. Your a time saver,Thank you.

[@funbro1]

Thanks for watching.

[@JoleneCatanne]

How to Bob!!! My washer is FIXED!!! Musta watched yer vids 6 times EACH!!! Just to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Just awesomeness right here. Thank you Sir!

[@funbro1]

That’s awesome, if you don’t mind me asking, where did you get your bearings? It’s been awhile since I did mine and I’m wondering where everyone is getting their bearings. Thanks for watching.

[@JoleneCatanne]

@@funbro1 eBay!

[@billgilmour3979]

I haven’t even received my bearings yet but know I won’t need them. The shaft that attaches to the drum has come apart. It was due to corrosion from bad well water. Bought a new washer. Had free parts if you need them. My bearings are in very good condition as the seal was intact. Thanks for the tutorial it helped me salvage the stainless drum which makes a good fire pit.

[@funbro1]

Good way to repurpose the tub. Thanks for watching.

[@SeeWhyMan]

That's true! Normally if I can find a youtube video (like what you publish) on how to do something, I'll take a stab at it. Saturday ended up being one of those days... Have you ever been blessed so much in one day that you find it hard to even talk about? That was Saturday for my wife and me! My parents happened to be in town and they bought us a brand spankin' new washer AND dryer - and a good one too! And this was right after they blessed us with another gift that was just as fantastic!

[@selveneleven]

I know this is old but thank you for making this. My parents washer was making noises and well now we know what it is. A lot of work to do. Hope you're doing well!

[@funbro1]

Doing great, thanks for watching.

[@pgk1940]

An excellen video, in both content and quality. No unnecessary chatter, but all the useful info. My machine was a differnt make, but a lot in this video appears to be pretty much generic, so I found it very useful. I do have a suggestion, as well as an emphasis: I think that one of the greatest things about digital photography is the low cost, and instant "development" and retrieval of pictures. TAKE PICTURES before and during disassembly, especially of electrical connections. And when it comes to bearings, as well as connections involving liquids, CLEANLINESS is even more important than godliness.

[@funbro1]

I agree with your suggestion on taking pictures, you can never have too many pictures and they can easily be deleted once the project is done. I must disagree on your other comment, nothing is more important than Godliness. Thanks for watching.

[@michaela1379]

Very thorough and informative video! I purchased Nachi bearings for about $80 on Ebay and I did the swap in about 4 hours. Lifting tub in and out was the hardest part. You need 2 strong guys and helps to have a step stool for the person holding the front of tub when lifting it in and out (let's you pull upward more easily). I'm a fan of swapping out parts while the unit is fully open too, but of course that's optional. My old inner bearing was absolutely destroyed, the ball bearings we broken in half and swirling in a tornado of bent metal and rusty sludge! This allowed the metal tub to wobble more and more over time. Eventually the wobble cracked the smaller rear bearing. Lesson for me: If I notice the high spin cycle shaking my house then check if there's any play in main metal basket where I put the clothes. The house vibrating was a sign that the main metal basket was wobbling due to bearing wear on high speed spin.

[@funbro1]

Awesome! think of the money you just saved. Thanks for watching.

[@quill6211]

Thank You so much for sharing your wisdom. Your instructions and video were very easy to understand step by step. My washing machine works flawlessly. Kudos!

[@funbro1]

+quill6211 That is Awesome!! glad to hear that it helped you out. Thanks for watching

[@scottys1423]

Thanks for posting this. As we all know, the manufacturers won't sell service manuals to the public, so without vids like this we would be going in blind. On mine the drum wobbles around too much, and it bangs around on the spin cycle. But I don't get a rough feeling from the bearings by hand. I guess I'll find out when I get it apart. I also see where they don't list the bearings for sale at the parts suppliers. Hard to believe my washer is 20 years old.

[@funbro1]

Thanks for watching.

[@tkriss]

Thanks for this video. I saved $1000 in repair costs or $1500 to 3000 for a new set. It works great.

[@funbro1]

Good to hear that it worked out for you, and great to hear that you saved a lot of money.

[@funbro1]

In my case the spindle was in good shape, I just cleaned it real good and re-greased the new bearings and put new seals on. Works great for an older machine.

[@javierbustillos3972]

Can you tell us the bearing part numbers?

[@dominicdinunzio3139]

How-to Bob - you are a genius. Great video and excellent step by step instructions...not only for disassembly, but for putting humpty-dumpty back together again! Process worked like a charm on my MaytagMHWE450WW washer. Hunk of poop failed bearings in 3 years.

[@snipezilla69]

Thank you for the great video! It’s a lot easier then I thought! I did the bearings on my kenmore elite washer I’m sure glad I found throw video before we went and bought a new washer!!

[@funbro1]

Thanks for watching.

[@funbro1]

There is a lot to reassemble, that's for sure. As for testing the shocks you could just remove the front lower cover. (See my video on cleaning the drain basket) From there you could remove the shocks and test them. The shocks are very easy to remove once you get to them, just a quarter turn and they should come right out. Hope this helps. Thanks and good luck.

[@nikkib2309]

This is great. Thanks for taking the time to make such a detailed guide.

[@funbro1]

My pleasure! Thanks for watching.

[@chrishutchings7491]

This video and the part 1 video are really really well done. Thank you for sharing this. You didn't skip on any details. So informative with hints and tips.

[@funbro1]

Glad it was helpful!

[@EnthusiastRC]

Thanks for the video! I've had this washer forever and couldn't justify replacing yet.

[@funbro1]

It’s a great machine, I think the seal and bearings might be the weakest part. Thanks for watching.

[@johnkomosa4089]

Nice job. Be careful putting greese on the outside of your seal, they have a tendency to pop out, mine was popped out from the last guy. I like to put mine in dry or with a little adhering sealant (temporary lub), then let it dry over night, or for a bit to let it set up. If clean...., clean and dry, it is less likely to slip out on the greese. Something to consider. Thanks, and nice video..

[@funbro1]

Thanks for the tip, and Thanks for watching.

[@atommiller]

You could use P80 lube or a little spit

[@joyriechmann7864]

A very helpful video.....you left out the part where you knocked the outer bearings in far enough to get the snap ring installed. I was following you step by step so I had to take the outer basket apart in order to get the outer bearing down where it belonged. That said, however, the two videos by How to Bob were life savers. Thank you ever so much!

[@funbro1]

Joy Riechmann In my case and maybe others this step was not necessary. Good tip. Thanks for watching

[@joyriechmann7864]

I'm sorry, I must disagree that it wasn't necessary. Your video shows using a 2 x 4 on its side to get the bearing in place. Then you flip over the outer tub and proceed through putting on the clips. Next step was flipping over the assembled outer tub after which you put in the snap ring. You could not have put in the snap ring if you had left the bearing flush with the surface. I used a 2" pvc pipe about 6" long topped by a 2 x 4. One whack with a hammer and the bearing was sitting right below the snap ring groove. Again, I sincerely thank you for your videos. As others have noted, Sears won't sell just the bearing kit. They wanted $466 plus tax for the rear outer drum. We may have paid too much, but we bought the bearing kit on Amazon for $129 plus tax. It took us awhile but our $1,300 HE 4t is back together ( and I only have one extra screw :)).

[@funbro1]

Joy Riechmann I think I may have used a socket to push the bearing down but the PVC is also a good tip. I think it's crazy of Sears to only sell the whole drum, think of the money they are losing on parts. Maybe they think they are making it up on selling new machines. Thanks again for watching.

[@krgetler]

I did not have such a large socket. I just set the old bearing atop the new bearing so I could then use the 2x4 to set the new bearing down into the recess.

[@achester07712]

Thank you so much for these great videos! They helped me diagnose and fix my HE5t washer. Thankfully the problem was the motor bearings and not the bearings in the tub! The job took a little more than an hour to replace the motor. Thanks again!

[@funbro1]

Sears will only sell you the bearings if you purchase a new tub also. To get the bearings you must do an internet search, And Yes definitely get both bearings. Thanks for watching.

[@sharkkillerification]

Fantastic instructions I can't thank you enough for these 2 videos. My washer was the exact same model and watching your teardown plus excellent voice instructions along the way took all of the hesitation out of this repair. I ordered the bearings/seal plus a belt ahead of time but when I got into the teardown I noticed my boot was worn through at the top. This made sense as just a month ago or more the washer leaked after showing a suds code. It didn't leak again (w/no suds) so I kinda wrote it off. If you've ever noticed some leakage or just for good measure I would check your rubber boot carefully and include it in your parts list if you notice some thin areas or torn areas like mine had. For me they were at the top and I think caused by sagging material and the drum rubbing against it. I think mine was around 65 bucks from Amazon and 2 day delivery. That find did delay me getting everything back together while waiting for the part. I used the downtime to clean the level sense container/tubing, clean out the trap underneath and do some general cleaning and inspection. I had replaced the drain pump just a year ago so that was still in good condition. One tip for the springs. Mine were still very tight even lifting the drum to the highest point and I was not strong enough to extend the springs while lifting the drum. I used an old 4wheeler trick to lift your truck, I extended each spring and inserted a thick nail into every other rung. By doing this to both springs they were extended another 1/2 inch or more, without tension, allowing me to lift the drum and disconnect the springs from each side. Also made reassembly much easier, just taking out the nail spacers after the drum was hung. Try it if you are stuck being the strongest person in your house, but not strong enough. I did have trouble with the inner bearing which was the failed one for me. Using some liquid wrench and overnight soaking let it pop out the next day. Anyway all back together, functioning perfectly and QUIET. It wouldn't have went as smooth and easy without your videos. Thank you again, liked and subscribed.

[@funbro1]

Thanks for watching.

[@4ehano]

Great video...in sequence and to the point! Exactly what I was looking for to repair my washer! Thanks!!!

[@funbro1]

Thank You

[@roundvision]

I cannot thank you enough for posting this video as well as part 1. Although my bearings were okay It allowed me to properly diagnose and avoid having to make the full repair. Awesome !!!!!

[@MedicAl911]

I first used these videos about 10 years ago to replace the bearings in my almost ten year old machine. All went well and I had it running in no time. The worst part was driving the shaft out of the old, rusted bearings. Six months later the new bearings failed. I did some research and found the machine was still under a factory warranty. The bearings were guaranteed for ten years! We had one month left on the warranty. I called Sears and they came out and confirmed that the warranty was good and replaced the outer tub, the wash tub and the bearings. I had to pay for a new nut to hold the pulley on. Upon examining the old parts I found that the new bearing ID had been slipping on the shaft which ruined the shaft. I had used fine emery cloth to clean the shaft which made the diameter too small. In hindsight I should have used Loctite on the shaft. Today there is some play in the bearings but now it seems that the shock absorbers are shot. I will be ordering some new ones and hope to get a few more years out of the washer. Thank you for your very detailed videos.

[@funbro1]

Thanks for checking in

[@caryfeldmann1566]

Great video. I was able to do the complete job, step by step, following on my laptop in the laundry room. In my unit the outer bearing is recessed about a quarter inch so a flush mount with a 2x4 is not possible without some special trimming. However, I used the old bearing which is a perfect match as the contact for the new bearing and voila, Thanks again. Saved a ton of money.

[@funbro1]

Cary Feldmann That's great. think of the money saved. Thanks for watching.

[@2002drumsonly]

My unit needs repair and you did a wonderful video. I am a professional technician and you my friend are Da Man!

[@funbro1]

Thanks for the kind words and Thanks for watching.

[@SeeWhyMan]

Well, your videos were perfect for what we needed to do. My father and I spent a couple of hours on Saturday taking the unit apart. We got to the bearings with no problems. Unfortunately, in our case, the bearings were just fine. The bracket on bottom of the inner metal basket (spider brace? spider vein? spider bracket? something like that) was seriously corroded and broken in many places. Since the basket is $375-600, we just bought a new washer. Need any parts? ;)

[@funbro1]

That's unfortunate, but at least you did not have to pay a repairman to find out what was wrong. Hopefully you got many years of good service out of your wash machine. Thanks again

[@povrtsux1]

Excellent work and instructions. I need to watch how you removed the bearing. Thanks!

[@funbro1]

You are welcome! Thanks for watching.

[@yoyobored847]

Great video! I have a this mentally sound when my washer is spinning! I think I will try this. I work on cars all the time so just looks like another fun project. Plus will Make mama happy.

[@funbro1]

I don't know about fun but it is a project. Sounds like that may be your issue. Thanks for watching.

[@yoyobored847]

@@funbro1 it was a pain. Haha not fun. I noticed that some of the stuff you remove easily for me it wasn’t. Some was stuck big time and on the way. Anyways, I replaced the bearing and look like they are all they way in like they should, but the inner tub is a little lose even after tightening the nut. Which gives it a rattle at high speeds. I can tell the bearing have nothing to do with the sound. I can manually move the inner drum up a little (it has play) and make a little clicking sound like it’s lose 🤔 I am not sure anymore what could it be. The inner outer drum pieces are all intact nothing broken

[@SeeWhyMan]

So glad I realized there was a part 2! This will help reassemble this monster! Before I begin (and before I order the parts), how can you tell if the problem is due to the bearings or the shock absorbers? If there is some simple test that would tell me for sure, that could save me tons of time if it ends up just being a shock absorber. Thanks again for posting these most useful videos. Looks like you're a jack of all trades :) Keep up the good work! Curtis

[@nalynmendoza4985]

Thanks for the very explicit video. I have the exact washer with the same problem and I intend to fix it myself, now, that I have a video that I can refer to.

[@funbro1]

Thanks for watching, good luck.

[@nalynmendoza4985]

When ordering bearings, do I have to order the outer bearing and inner bearing separately? Or are they both included? Is it better to order them from Sears or can I order them on Amazon? Thank you so much! Again, great video!

[@sarfdhillon]

Fubbro, I noticed you put the same steel drum back and noticed that the bottom of the shaft on the spider is worn out bottom part where the inner ball bearing would be resting. I had to replace the drum with a new one as the shaft spider could not be purchased independently. I think its imperative to have a clean new shaft for the ball bearings else it will still have play in it.

[@silvanoangelone5709]

Hey Bob, absolutely fantastic video! Thanks for sharing.

[@funbro1]

Thanks for watching

[@sarfdhillon]

I really like this video. It helped me specifically on the subject matter. I have a Whirlpool Front Loader Washer (WFW9450WW00) One good place for getting the ball bearings is Motion Industries. The ball bearings you need (per their part numbers are): 1) Outer (Smaller one) - 6206ZZC3 2) Inner (Bigger one) - 6307VVC3

[@erickcerda2081]

Bob, thank you for the timeless video. Even though it is more than 8 years old, many of us are still needing to refer to it as these machines had lots of issues. However, the one part of your machine that looked reasonable well was the spider arm assembly where the main shaft is attached. This is the weak link for most owners of this machine like me. Would you happen to have the part number for the spider assembly, as mine is rotted to the core. Thanks in advance.

[@funbro1]

No I do not have the part number for that assembly. If I remember correctly that part was only sold with the drum and it was around the $500 mark so that made it too expensive to do the repair on an older machine. Thanks for watching.

[@dongraham5828]

I cant thank you enough for this video. It was a three hour job for me.

[@funbro1]

don graham Thanks for watching.

[@confidentlocal8600]

Dry ice really makes the bearings go in easier. Freeze them in a domestic freezer overnight, then put them in a ziploc baggy in dry ice for 4 hours. On my washer the bearings popped in with gentle thumb pressure. I used latex gloves under heavy mechanics gloves.

[@davidmcallister3195]

could you please tell me why the parts to fix my washer is over $900. they said that the drum bearings were bad

[@confidentlocal8600]

+David McAllister I have a Samsung. The bearings (6305-ZZ and 6306-ZZ) totaled about $50 from Amazon. The code is stamped on the bearings themselves. The shaft seal was about $10. I also replaced the spider for about $100. My drum was fine because nothing had failed yet, but that would have been $300 with the bearings installed. Still nowhere near $900. Surely the figure you quoted included labor. My washer was torn apart in the garage for a couple weeks while I got the parts. Samsung (and possibly other manufacturers) won't sell bearings separately, perhaps because replacing them is a bit tricky and introduces the possibility of screw-ups--plus they'd rather sell you the expensive part. Since the washer manufacturers use standard bearings, you can find them online once you know the size.

[@pb7379-j2k]

Or you can use a 2x4 and a hammer...

[@pb7379-j2k]

Because someone is ripping you off

[@psiksna]

So I have a Kenmore Elite HE4t (110.45091400) from 2005 that has been an awesome machine. Just this last week it starting making a horrible knocking sound and when it finally stopped I found that the drum had shredded a bunch of the front edge of the tub. When I rotate the inner drum it's off center so I'm quite sure that the drum shaft is bent. When I removed the back panel and removed the belt from the pulley and rotate the inner drum it spins but catches the front tub edge. However, when I grab the pulley itself and try to rock in any direction it feels solid without any play or slop. It rotates the bent shaft just fine until the drum catches a spot in the tub. The stainless steel inner drum (with shaft and spider attached) is covered by Sears with a lifetime warranty. I had a tech arrive to replace the drum but he of course said that the bearing / seal will leak and that I also needed a new front and rear tub. $$$$$ I sent him away for now! So my plan is to simply replace the front tub portion myself (which already comes with a new gasket) but I'm thinking of not replacing the rear tub (no damage) and leaving the bearings and seals alone since everything feels snug and normal with no play. There currently are no leaks to be found and the rear tub looks brand new (even though it's 15 years old!). Given that everything looks and feels great regarding the bearings and seals would you still recommend replacing the bearings and seals if I'm only replacing the shaft / spider / drum assembly? I plan on removing the damaged inner drum and shaft myself and then have the Sears tech come back to insert the new inner drum assembly into the existing rear tub and bearings. Bottom line here, do you REALLY need to replace the bearings and seal every time you replace the shaft and inner drum? I would totally agree with replacement if there was a leak or slop / wiggle in the bearings but in my situation it still feels firm and factory fresh. And finally, if you think a bearing & seal replacement should be done regardless (maybe given the age of the machine or maybe what just happened) how do I find out what bearings and seals I would need? Are all Kenmore bearings and seals "universal". I find that when I go to online appliance parts sites and enter in my model number I never see seals and bearings so I have no idea what part number I would be searching for on the open internet. BTW, great videos!! I'm hoping that I actually won't need to replace the bearing in my washer but if suggest that I do I'll be revisiting your instructions. Thank you in advance!!

[@funbro1]

Wow this is a dilemma, If it were me I would probably replace the bearing and seal because you know 6 months after you put everything back together they will go bad and then it's tear it apart again. But that's just me. All bearings are different and all seals are different so I just did an internet search for the correct one. Thanks for watching.

[@funbro1]

Reply to David Johnson If you have your machine apart already and it has a good amount of usage on it then I would replace the bearing. If the bearing is rusted or loose at all then this is a good time to replace it. It would be terrible to put the machine back together just to have to take it back apart.

[@gcensing6351]

I have a kenmore HE2 Plus that needs bearings replaced, but can't get those through Sears, they only come with the outer tub. Where can I purchase these? Thanks...

[@gcensing6351]

Never mind, eBay has been ever helpful...

[@funbro1]

Dominic DiNunzio The F20 error is for the pressure switch, it detects water in the machine. It sounds like you may need to replace this part.

[@funbro1]

I would recommend getting a bearing grease because of the high RPM's that the drum spins. Lithium grease is usually not meant to handle the heat that could be produced by this RPM. As for the gasket, I have re-used the gasket and not had any problems. You may want to rub a little all purpose oil or Vaseline on the gasket before re-ssembly. Thanks and good luck on your repair.

[@atommiller]

Best to use silicone grease on any rubber parts as petroleum-based lubes can cause rubber parts to swell and deteriorate.

[@ADOTlied]

Bob your the man, really, best video on KZbin

[@funbro1]

Thanks for watching.

[@Khmerrommantic]

very good video, very step by step details that is great for dummies to follow.

[@funbro1]

Thanks for watching.

[@tomneila8496]

After watching video parts 1 & 2, this doesn't look as bad as changing my car's heater core. Nice work, btw.

[@funbro1]

If you have done a heater core in your car then you can get this done.

[@kevinconville9258]

Excellent video. You've done us a great service.

[@funbro1]

Glad to help, thanks for watching.

[@greggforbes6902]

Wow, great detailed video. My sears repairman told me it would cost > $600 to do the fix so it's not worth it. I'm wondering if he said that because it was already 6 pm and he wanted to get home. I would give this a shot myself but a recent bike fall has left me with a broken hip.

[@funbro1]

That is a bummer. Most repairman will only replace the entire assembly, so the parts price adds up quickly. Thanks for watching.

[@Movieman1965]

Excellent repair instructions!

[@funbro1]

Thanks for watching

[@eyeslikelighters]

This is still helpful in 2022! Thank you!! :)

[@funbro1]

Awesome! I’m sure there are many of these machines out there. Thanks for watching.

[@matthewberghof6730]

This video was fantastic,every detail was correct except My washer did not have a retaining ring in front of the bearing.

[@funbro1]

I’m wondering if the bearings were pressed on or if the retaining ring came off. Check to see if there is a spot for a retaining ring, if so you may have to get another one just to be safe. Thanks for watching

[@aaronac8]

Also, does the gasket btw the inner and outer tubs need to be replaced with this repair?

[@funbro1]

I would recommend bearing grease. I'm not sure about Lucas oil and what the specs are.

[@funbro1]

Most part dealers will only sell you the whole spider assembly with the bearings and seals. If you are looking for just the bearings and seal you will have to look online.

[@gurnamdulku3729]

Hi Bob. Excellent video.

[@funbro1]

+Gurnam Dulku Thanks for watching.

[@tarzan30809]

Thanks for the video, my Whirlpool duet needs the bearings and it looks very similar to the kenmore HE3t

[@funbro1]

Yes, there were several years they were almost identical. Best of luck, Thanks for watching.

[@tarzan30809]

My model is GHW9400PW2 could you give some orientation for the the best quality bearings for this model? Thanks@@funbro1

[@AJollyGoodFelon]

It seems you did a whole lot of un-necessary work. I left the rear outer drum in, because of this, I didn't have to remove the motor, springs, pump hoses, water inlet valve,etc, and didn't need 2 people. Mine was so bad it wore through the outer drum front and back, which I actually repaired. My initial symptom was error code F20 since water ran right through the outer drum onto the floor. I'm not doing a video though since I am done with it. Yee haw thanks Red headed Bob.

[@funbro1]

AJollyGoodFelon Good for you:-) glad to hear that worked for you. It may be difficult to get the bearing out of some washers without removing it completely. But if it worked for you, Bonus. Thanks for watching.

[@sarfdhillon]

No, I was unable to find the seal as it comes along with the tub. My seal was fairly good in shape and it fitted well into the slot. I greased it well. I did get a tub for $40 which has a brand new seal, but the tub was missing one of the four clips. Where are you located? I am returning this tub to the parts dealer in San Jose, CA, if you are looking for it, i can give you his reference.

[@stephaniemoore3730]

I am so grateful I found this video! Thank you for posting it:) I fixed my dryer last year and now my washer is acting up, but it is over 12 years old...so its time:) I ordered OEM bearings on Amazon for $35. I will get into it with my daughter in a few days when they arrive:) Probably a dumb questions...and my gut says "no", but can we use it before we fix it to do small loads?? I am a handy-woman, but I still like to wear clean clothes!! lol

[@funbro1]

It would depend on how bad the bearings are. If the tub is still spinning you might be able to do a few small loads...maybe slow down the spin cycle a little bit. Hope this helps,. let us know how it goes with the replacement. Thanks for watching

[@poolahpot]

Stephanie Moore Oh yes, please let us know how things go! If possible please provide the amazon link. thanks Mrs. B😊

[@funbro1]

That's great, Sounds like you are living right and have great parents.

[@rdot980]

Thanks. I have a Maytag, but after removing the top and back panels, it looks pretty much like yours.

[@funbro1]

Many different brands are made on the same assembly line these days. Thanks for watching.

[@alexanderspenser4960]

thanks for the detailed repair. just gave a Whirlpool away that I surely could have saved.

[@funbro1]

You are welcome! Thanks for watching.

[@TONE3846]

I have a question is there a such thing as the shaft going too far because I put new bearings in but I followed your video but I had more shaft in the back by the belt pulley and it's pretty clean where did I go wrong the only thing I seen was the seal behind the drum was rubbed and had a burn smell

[@attilaelekes5534]

thank you for taking the time for this very good tutorial

[@funbro1]

Thanks for the view.

[@richardlayhew]

Great instructions. Thank you so much .

[@kurtisolson6668]

With the spindle being rusty like that do you have any problems with creating a good seal? Also thanks for the fantastic video!

[@funbro1]

Not at all. Most of the time the seal is what creates the problem. Water gets into an area that it shouldn't and causes issues. Thanks for watching.

[@linwu1]

Such a terrific tutorial! TY.

[@funbro1]

Thank you for watching.

[@macsterling5854]

did you use a new bearing seal or reuse the old one. i ask because i damaged the bearing seal while removing it and i need to source a new bearing seal

[@Nahannidog]

Was in SanJose, now in Denver. Haven't found good parts dealer here.

[@joseluisjacayflores5102]

aki en Peru tenemos las erramientas adecuadas para golpear los rodajes...y donde van los rodajes y sello de tina echamos grasa..para un mejor resultado..muy bueno

[@funbro1]

Not everyone here has the correct tool but we make do with what we have. Thanks for watching.

[@thecrittergitter7576]

Nice video. Very thorough.

[@funbro1]

Thanks for watching.

[@m-o-sorangepaint6145]

Very nice video. I happened upon this and you may already know that this Kenmore washer was made for Sears by Maytag.

[@granitestatedave]

My Duet drum got stuck and wouldn't spin (resulting in an F06 error). I removed the belt, and worked thru the resistance manually, turning the drum back and forth via the flywheel. Its better now, but i suspect the bearing is going bad...how can i know for sure if the bearing needs replacing?

[@douwehoekstra2000]

How to tell for sure your bearings are the culprit: on the front side, see if there is any motion (play) between the inner drum and outer tub (not the shell of the washer). If you can't tell for sure, remove the backpanel, remove the drive belt and turn the drum manually. If it runs smoothly, it is something else, otherwise, its your bearings. Without the belt you could also manually turn the motor axle, to see if any problem is with the motor (e.g. the carbon brushes).

[@funbro1]

There are a few tests like you mention that could point to a problem being bearings or something else.

[@huntermattox33]

I’m having trouble getting the drum shaft fully seated into the tub. I’ve tried multiple times with no luck. My bearings practically exploded so it nicked up the shafted pretty good. Any advice?

[@MikeGillen]

Great video. It helped so much! Does the bearing seal sit flush against the bearing? The seal seems seated but there is a small gap between the bearing and the seal.

[@funbro1]

The bearing should fit in so that the seal is able to completely seal the bearing assembly from any water. Thanks

[@aaronac8]

Can I use Lucas oil " red and tacky" grease? Just happen to have this grease handy.... Thanks for excellent repair videos!!

[@glennman0922]

You may have just saved me hundreds & hundreds of dollars! We will find out. About the order the bearings & seal now.

[@funbro1]

Awesome, let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching.

[@rootsdat]

Slapping noise has us in awe. We have no idea where it’s coming from on a WFW8 whirlpool . We took everything apart and still haven’t fingered it out the slapping noise when test spinning. Usually slaps when it’s stopped and even after It stops spinning is it because we don’t have the rotor screwed tight ?

[@funbro1]

It’s possible, but hard to say without seeing the unit in question. Thanks for watching.

[@billgilmour3979]

Thanks H2B. I am waiting on my bearings and will report back to you on “How The Drum Spins. I waited too long and won’t even make a squeal. Wish me luck. BTW for everybody else out there make sure you know your model number as there are probably 50 differing models of the He 3t.

[@funbro1]

I hope everything goes smooth with your repair. Thanks for checking in.

[@zanderman33]

Great video! Precise and to the point, very informative. thumbs up and subscribed!

[@funbro1]

zanderman33 Thank You

[@ethanjones709]

Thanks so much - Do you happen to have the part number for the bearings and seal?

[@funbro1]

Nope just do an internet search, that’s what I did. Thanks for watching

[@mccardieclan1755]

Great video! I have lots of shredded material inside my drum, it's the color of the exterior drum housing. Do you think I will have to replace it also?? thanks

[@funbro1]

You really won’t know until you get it apart and get a good look at it. Thanks for watching.

[@dani777dani]

this video makes me to wanna disassemble my washing machines :)))

[@funbro1]

+Alien X It is a lot of work. Thanks for watching

[@douwehoekstra2000]

I would clean the inside of the tub before assembly, and also replace the seal between the two halves of the tub.

[@funbro1]

In my case the seal was in great shape and it has been holding up nicely now for some time with no leaks. If your seal is at all worn or looks like it may be cracked then yes, I would agree it should be changed.

[@m-o-sorangepaint6145]

Ooops, hit the Post too soon. I am rebuilding mine, and don't want to do this again for, say, 20 years. To that end, I know that some greases will destroy some plastic / rubber components. Can you kindly tell me exactly what type of grease to use on the seal (brand, upc, etc., would be appreciated)? (Tips I might add. Used a Sharpie to leave trace marks for ground wires on tub. I got both bearings and seal on the internet for $25. I used an awl to gently ply off the clips from the tub-caused less damage to tub plastic. And experience tells me to replace the tub seal ring also. I put silicone caulk around the outer edge of the bearing seal & tub mating surface to ensure water does not enter around the outer edge of the seal. And have been advised to never use extra high (or high) spin speed since grease is not kept in pressure contact with the seal; that is what is causing the failure since there is not constant water contact to lube as with top loaders. Was also told that detergent packaged in plastic packets is caustic to the seal - only use powder). Again, thank you for a terrific video, and what kind of grease should I use.

[@funbro1]

+M-O-S OrangePaint What type of grease you use is completely up to you. Different people have different preferences and will stick with something that they know or have used before. I cannot recommend a particular brand but you should be able to check the label to make sure the grease is ok to use on or around plastic/rubber components.

[@m-o-sorangepaint6145]

+funbro1 Thank you for your reply. I have elected to use marine grease that is said to be acceptable for a number of applications, including wheel axle bearing seals that would be submersed. I hope this will increase longevity. One more question, please. The factory bearings have metal side wall seals. Your replacement bearings have rubber side walls. Would you comment on why you went with RS bearings instead of ZZ?

[@funbro1]

No real reason other than that was what was available.

[@billschuler1165]

Thank you very much the video is helping a great deal. Do you have any advice for cleaning a very rusty runway?

[@funbro1]

I would start with a fine steel wool with WD-40 to get the rust off. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.

[@bookstorekings6420]

Brilliant instructive video. Thanks for making and posting it. I had no luck purchasing the seal I needed, so I had to order a new tub assembly (bearings and seal included). This assembly has no retaining clip, nor does it have the groove above the outer bearing to accept the original retaining clip which I saved from dis-assembly. Should I be concerned about this design/outer tub not having a snap ring?

[@funbro1]

Ric Mast That is odd that the new replacement parts are not the exact same, if it were me I would be concerned. Check the part number to make sure it is correct then maybe call whomever you ordered the part from and find out from them if this was a design change possibly? Hope this helps.

[@JimmyLeeHook]

There are no end of people on eBay selling bearings and seals for this machine. Simply go to www.searspartsdirect.com and enter the model number of your machine. Once you do that, Sears will show you an exploded parts diagram. Get the part number of the rear housing. Mine is W10253866. Then go to eBay and type "Bearing and Seal W10253866" and you'll get a ton of suppliers. I think you're best to go with a Japanese made bearing like Nachi over the cheapo Chinese bearings that will likely wear out in a year or two. But it's up to you. You can get the bearings and seal for as little as $15 or as much as $80. I bought the $80 Nachi bearings for superior bearing class and reliability.

[@funbro1]

JimmyLeeHook Thanks for the additional tips.

[@dgere2]

It looked like there was a grove on the spider shaft .. question i have is that grove supposed to be on there or does that need to be replaced

[@funbro1]

I think it is supposed to be there. Thanks for watching.

[@dgere2]

Thank you i just tore mine apart it is a whirlpool Ht and all i could find out is that you have to purchase the rear outer tub for the bearing assembly and the inner tub for the spider shaft so I looked around got the numbers and it seems like the bearings are all the same for those and the seal so I just purchased them and I'm going to put them in and was thinking that I might have to weld that little Groove to make sure that the slap is not there cuz there was quite a bit of slop