3D Printed Box Trimming Tool

[@tomydurden6676]

Clamp the jig to the table and run the box across it. Keeps the blade in a safe place. Run the bottom against the fence so you can a) measure the box and b) use the clean and consistent edge for a clean cut.

[@Conserveblikje]

Came here to say this :)

[@freakent]

Me too 😂

[@mrhappyfaq32]

just use the bottom from the box as your guide would be my only complaint

[@TheBoringOctopus]

That was a major oversight lol

[@paulkalupnieks]

I don't comment often on videos but this is exactly what I came to say ...😂

[@thefimo4505]

This

[@Dalroth]

Seriously

[@mrhappyfaq32]

@@AndrewHelgeCox maybe but still easy to do, perfect straight edge and you save cutting the flaps

[@djroberts12]

Others nailed it. Using the bottom of the box as your guide should help. Maybe adding a slight relief to the edges that slide along the box would reduce the tendency for it to catch as well. Thanks for another fun functional Friday video!

[@joell439]

I was also thinking that. Adding a full radius or 45 degree chamfer as the edge relief would minimize catching.

[@stevelackscheide8307]

Interesting idea. As mentioned above, using the bottom of the box for the reference will give you a more solid bearing. As a bonus, you can use your numbered markings to cut the box to a specific depth to fit the needs of the drawer.

[@notsurt]

Yep, and wouldn't need to remove the flaps and it will be more sturdy surface to cut on closer to the bottom.

[@tehhamstah]

Could also just close the top of the box for the same effect, but this would limit the ability to grip the sides as he moves around it.

[@shane7394]

Fold the flaps in to add rigidity and cut from the bottom!

[@dennysawyer3980]

One tip - if you leave the flaps on and use the bottom of the box to guide the tool, you can get two boxes out of one. Cut the bottom part at the height you need, then fold and tape the flaps to make another box.

[@mrDavo111]

Maybe position the jig so that it runs along the bottom. It would be more solid and less likely to collapse. Interesting idea

[@chrisboerma7585]

My thought exactly.

[@Shinare73]

Why not use the fence along the bottom?

[@northtustinsteamworks5172]

Optimal cutting angle for cardboard is where the blade is leaning over, say at 45°. Cuts like butter. Pointing the blade straight down, you'll just compress, tear and injure yourself... :)

[@zeno2712]

I've been binge-watching your videos this last week or so after I discovered loads of videos on the new Bambu A1. I don't have a 3D printer (yet) but it got me interested (and the A1 looks perfect for me) and your videos have shown me loads of very practical things that can be done with 3D printers. As a fellow engineer (electronics), I love the design process as much as the final, practical product. I've already worked out where I can put my new printer - all I have to do now is justify the cost and save the money. Thanks for all you do!

[@TheINKspiredLife]

Great tips on how to create different color surfaces for 3D printing.

[@MrKlawUK]

apart from bottom (as thats more stable and also where you’re measuring for your drawers in terms of depth): but also I’d suggest longer slots and use it more as a guide and then letting you use your knife more freely, letting you control pressure etc more finely. Eg scoring initially against the grain of the box and doing a few runs.

[@bwselectronic]

My EDC is the Milwaukee Fastback with the screwdriver feature. I use it a lot for cutting up cardboard boxes. I run a file or a cheap sharpening tool over the blade about 5 times each side to sharpen it once or twice a week. I've used the same blade for a year doing this

[@mattphilip4595]

People are saying use the bottom as a guide. But I think making one that works like a height gauge scriber would work better. Runs along the table with the box upright and maybe cut in multiple passes for a cleaner edge and probably be safer too.

[@malibuman792004]

That's the neatest dang thing I've ever seen. Can't tell you the countless times I could have used this.

[@RealSnail3D]

great idea to cut boxes for storage, and double great idea on the tool!

[@ayourk1]

The only "improvement" I can suggest is to use the guide based off of the bottom of the box vs the top where the flaps are. Then you don't have to cut the flaps. Saves an extra step.

[@75keg75]

You could put a fillet on the fence edge that touches the box so it doesn’t hang up. I assume the 90 corner has some hang ups.

[@brucejohnson1264]

You could disassemble the box and fold it flat. Then cut two layers at once, and re tape the bottom. You might also try a small battery operated circular saw..

[@PaulBohn]

I would cut it on my tablesaw.

[@Sembazuru]

I discovered printing legends on the bottom surface with color changes a while ago when I first learned the ManualMMU technique. (I had a MK3 w/o an MMU at the time.) Over time I discovered two layers at 0.2mm layer height was sufficient for most opaque filaments. This also meant that I only had babysit the print for the first two layers to manually change the filament when needed. I started doing something similar when printing other people's designs that had recessed lettering on the bottom surface. If you import a model with recessed letters/graphics/logos on the bottom surface, add a part in the slicer. Then drag and scale that added part to the bottom feature that you want filled in with a different color and set it to the color you want. Now the trick is to make sure the added part is before the base model in the object tree. You will need to drag the added part above the base part. Now when you slice it you should see that the new part only fills in the bottom where the original model doesn't touch the build plate. Depending on how complex the geometry is where you want to fill, it might take several added parts. YMMV. I have some remixes on Printables of parts for the MK4 and the handles for the Prusa Enclosure where I demonstrate this technique. I have the same handle on Printables as I do here if anyone wants to look up my remixes (which have a much better explanation to here).

[@75keg75]

You could make one with a fence thats heavier and work from the bench. It will eliminate the jagged edge issue. You can use the guide as a depth gauge in drawer then just run the guide around base of box to get perfect cut assume you bench is nice.

[@mikeneron]

Not sure if you have heard about Gridfinity, but would be something to consider. Gotta start somewhere though so cardboard boxes are a cheap way to start the organization process.

[@haydenc2742]

Close enough for government work....very nice! Keep em coming!!!!

[@Gunbudder]

i use a stainless steel straight edge with a cork back, and sewing pins to hold the straight edge in place (or at least help hold it). then i just run a brand new blade with almost no pressure along the straight edge a few times and it produces a perfect cut, every time. perfectly straight, no frills. you shouldn't need any pressure on the blade at all. your guide is nice though, and probably a bit faster. i've seen similar products at craft stores for cutting fabric or paper a certain distance from a table edge

[@snart]

Very functional. Love it!

[@servant74]

Similar design to a fixed width tool with an integrated blade, I used it when I was in college 50 years ago while in college working in a data center! It made opening boxes of printer paper fast and consistent.

[@chackokhan]

Agreed, a more precise cut and saves time from cutting flaps. Also cutting away from yourself is safer. Less likely to injure yourself.

[@michaelbraaten]

I really like the simplicity of it. It’s a similar method of drawing lines parallel to an edge using a T-square or other similar method… there are two things I think are worth mentioning though. First is, at least for myself, I would design the small edge to be much larger, like a round handle of some kind, maybe just like a dowel shape off the end, for better grip… and then the other thing to consider is only using it with the bottom edge of the boxes… then you have the bottom of the box helping to maintain the shape while you pull on it with the blade. Those are my two main thoughts after watching the video. Really enjoyed it!

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

thx for the suggestion

[@chrispcall]

Love all of your videos! Have you considered making a Sketchup tutorial? Your designs are more complicated that anything I've made in it and I'd like to see you discuss the add-on that lets you chamfer and filet edges like you have a lot of!

[@logicalfundy]

I have box cutters with edge guides which would be good for cutting the top flaps off without making a crooked line.

[@jarredmitchell6164]

You should measure up from the bottom rather than down from the top. Then your cut can be the same as your measurement and you have a truer edge to measure from.

[@MrKlawUK]

what was your print time? saw the 9hrs with the front face being white and was hohping you’d slice and show the difference with the face being black so way fewer filament changes. also, if you have a print tower does it print the full height even if you switch to single colour after 5 layers? Seems a waste.

[@Aidenn23]

great design/print!

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

thx!

[@thefimo4505]

So what I would like to see is two intersecting sharpened Ballbearings to scissor the box with a guide. But for now, for the sake of not overcomplocating: Chamfer on the edge, or even a designed slope so you can glide smoother across slight uneven (bottom) surfaces.

[@lucaseaston]

I don’t know if there is a reason why this wouldn’t work, but wouldn’t you be better off using the bottom of the box as a guide? Then you don’t have to worry about the rough top edge. Also you could model in a lead for where the blade sits to make it guide the blade better. Not sure if that makes sense.

[@seansysig]

Why not slide the guide against the bottom? Also I use my oscillating tool with the hooked razor blade to cut my boxes. It is very fast!

[@saltwaterrook4638]

Why would you not reference from the bottom

[@rearera]

How is this better or easier than using a T-square or a speed square? I like the idea but after spending time and money on building this bespoke solution you could get good at cutting a box using that mat using tools you can use in other applications as well.

[@kingcobra0128]

Cardboard is pretty much the same size you could probably add something the holds the box a little better by going inside the box as well

[@PaulBohn]

Needs to be bolted to your workbench. Control one thing at a time. Most people cant hold AND cut something at the same time with any accuracy or safety. Other than that, it's a neat idea. I might build one into my workbench.

[@CLipscombe]

As mentioned, I would flip the box upside down and measure / cut from the bottom of the box. No flaps to remove. Nice and even. Might be harder to grip while cutting.

[@thediscoman2001]

me personally for a safety aspect i would have added an adjuster to the top that clips round the cardboard and then u adjust a knob so it sits on the cardboard and then use what u have designed as it would be less hassle and safer , some more though i think as its still dangerouse but the overall idea is good and im sure il copy it but modify for safety so anyone can use it

[@nate4555]

Actually I like this. I use a table saw and cut from the sealed bottom. This would be nice for me.

[@JimRimS4S]

I know I'm a bit late for the party but I just watched your show and thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. I'm a woodworker who loves hand planes and slicing wood so maybe I can help. Why not try a longer retractable blade extended quite far out and at an extreme angle causing it to shear the cardboard. Thats all I got. see ya

[@Sembazuru]

I haven't used Bambu Studio, but I consider myself more proficient than average in PrusaSlicer. In PS you wouldn't need to import the letters twice. The order of the sub-objects in the part tree will determine what part carves out in the other part. In this case you would want to import the base model and then add the letters with "add part". I don't know if BS has kept this functionality, but I don't see any reason why they would have removed it when forking PS to BS.

[@Sembazuru]

I see you got the correct ordering in the slicer importing both at the same time, but I wouldn't trust that all the time. My point was you didn't need to carve the letters out of the base model in CAD. But I'm also not trying to say that you were wrong to do so. The way you did it does give a cleaner preview as PS (and presumably BS) gets a bit confused when previewing coincident faces.

[@MH3DPrinting]

What design software are you using ?

[@mikeg8447]

Sketchup

[@MH3DPrinting]

Thanks Mike@@mikeg8447

[@pctech12345]

Owns a cutting mat, but the table top is all messed up and the cutting mat looks new.

[@jaystidolph1904]

I feel like this might have worked better if you'd worked from the bottom up, instead of the top down... Clever idea though - I do like the idea of employing the 'KISS' principal!

[@jamesneiss9332]

Just cut from the bottom of the box up

[@slicedpage]

why use the knife, use a pencil first then the knife without the jig

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

it's slower, but would definitely work

[@RyanDrake67]

I wish to be your best friend.... I aspire to achieve your level

[@RBCire]

I have 3 different cans of WD-40. Mainly because I use it so infrequently that when I need it, I cannot find it. So, I go buy a new can. Then I find the other one.

[@tamiamibusch]

Table saw.

[@AlanTuringWannabe]

Gridfinity will be useful to you

[@electronsmove]

Just use the bottom of the box as a reference!!!! I think you are doing this on purpose just to trigger people. Could also mount the blade in a table and use a fence like a table saw and push the box through........or make a table saw insert that holds razor blades......or you could cut the boxes on the table saw with a thin plywood blade.

[@pjkoths]

Stopped the video - Whole lot of fluff little useful information for a 21 minute video. Not even entertaining! Sorry just saying.