Garage RC presents .....MR03 EVO SP PART 2 BALL DIFFERENTIAL AND SHOCK SET UP, RACE VS AWD VS GLA

[@EMU1]

Nice video... a couple points, Shocks Before filling, unscrew the ball cup from the shaft, and remove the shaft. Grease the o-ring to better seal the shaft, then put a little oil on the shaft and inside of the shock body, and reinsert the shaft and screw on the ball cup. This will prevent leaking considerably, and also provide a smoother action on the shaft with the o-ring. when filling the shock, you want the shaft fully depressed into the shock body when installing the cap. Fill the shock body 3/4, work the piston up and down to release air bubbles (without the piston coming out of the oil). Then fill again up to the top once all air is removed. Place bladder over the top of the shock, and depress the shaft so that the piston comes all the way up, you dont want to push down hard on the bladder, but just enough to keep it in place as the piston/shaft rises. Do this slow so you do not introduce any bubbles. Then install the cap as you showed in the video. You do want some oil to run out of the top as you do this, as it will be an indicator that the shock is full, if no oil is displaced, then chances are that the shock is not full of oil. The reason for sealing the shock with the shaft fully inserted in the body is to compensate for the increased displacement inside of the shock body of the shaft. By sealing with the shaft fully out, you increase pressure inside of the shock as it compresses, which acts as a spring of sorts. You want the force to be on the spring, not on the oil inside of the shock under compression. This will also make the rebound stroke of the shock much smoother as you come off the throttle and transfer mass forward. As for the differential, I always look at the differential from the view of the left side of the car, so that it makes it easier to conceptualize the way to adjust the tension. I insert the pin in the adjustment collar, but adjust with the rear left wheel as opposed to adjusting the collar itself. I feel that this method is slightly easier to make smaller adjustments to the collar without the tool inserted in the hole moving. Generally, I adjust 1/16 of a turn at a time, with a maximum of 1/4 turn, and always adjust from loose to tight. If I want to loosen the diff, I loosen a little more than wanted, then tighten again to desired tension. The quality of your video is VERY good!!! Love the ghost racing at the end. You just earned a new Subscriber!

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

Thanks, I've screenshot and printed so i can refer too whilst I redo the shock and diff. Any preference for the front? I have the route 246 front shocks to install.

[@EMU1]

@@GarageMiniRCUK the standard front geometry really isn't that bad. Flip the kingpin, and grease the pin to the lower ball with kyosho 15k grease, and it's pretty darn good. In general in this scale I avoid oil shocks due to the size, and how much they leak. The front r246 shocks have such low capacity that it exacerbates the issue... Atomic used to produce a very similar front end with grease shocks rather than oil shocks, which I feel work considerably better in the application. The issue with that front end is that by design the upper arms are pretty long, and designed to be run with spacers stacked above the knuckle to increase the arm angle. This both decreases clearance to the body (which very few will fit) and increases the camber gain which can make the front end feel very aggressive. I remedied that issue by using Reflex Racing adjustable camber upper tower which allows the hinge to move laterally to adjust camber. Allowing me to remove the spacer above the knuckle, laying the arm flatter, and reaching the camber that I wanted with lower camber gain. Its much more complex than it needs to be, but is the best feeling front end which I have used on a mini-z. My second favorite front setup is to use the kyosho inner tube damper with the reversed kingpin. Both of these arrangements allow preload adjustment on the spring which the standard front setup does not and come in considerably cheaper than the double a-arm setups. My suggestion is to start simple, with what you have on the car and just optimize it by flipping the kingpin(snipping the tip of pin at clip groove for track clearance) and greasing the pin to lower ball and see how it feels. I personally feel that this configuration is very competitive at little to no cost.

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

Ok, I'm relatively new to the rwd mini z racing set up. Although I have mr01 that is 18 years old! Once I learn how to do the flip, I'll do a video about it. 👍🏽😁

[@rogerserafin]

love the ghost racer footage !!!!

[@The.JZA.]

I had a similar issue with my Mini-Z MB-010VE 2.0. The steering was way off. I turned off the controller, manually set the wheels to face forward, set the buggy into pairing mode and then turned the controller back on. That fixed it. Make sure all of the trims on the controller are set to the middle before turning the controller on. A question for you; how do I change the amount of motor braking? I want more stopping power on my buggy. I don’t like how it rolls freely when you let off the power or even if you hit reverse. It should be able to stop on a dime but it can’t.

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

I did try your method and that worked on my mao20 but not the evos awd or Rwd . Braking . Hmmm . I’ve faced this too . On the mini z synchro touch tx you can adjust it but to do it effectively you need the ics lead but even that is not enough sometimes the braking is more effective with lower gearing and higher torque motor . I found going from 8500 kv to a 5600 kv really improved the braking at speed . Hope that helps . Thanks for watching

[@PandorusFightStick]

keep the videos up. really want 1 of these, have a track near me in ashford that race these

[@Runk3lsmcdougal]

Dude thank you so much for the diff adjustment, been driving me crazy, couldn't find info anywhere

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

I had same issue 🙏

[@Runk3lsmcdougal]

@@GarageMiniRCUK Would the diff last longer if it was too tight, or too loose? mine came really loose, and screamed while never locking up. now i think ive over compensated and its too tight. dont want to blow it out though. Also im driving on hard cold cement in my garage lol, not a good spot to test

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

Mini z diffs are quite resilient . Depends how many laps you do . Loose the plates take more wear tight the gear takes more wear

[@mohdhamamsy1182]

Awesome super fast 🔥

[@theheatmagazine]

Can you show how to put the wheels on and what type of wheels and rims you use

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

Sure I think I might have done it in an earlier video . I’ll link it kzbin.info/www/bejne/pX3EhZejmLOfrMU

[@oliverstoys8411]

Another Excellent video👍🏻👍🏻

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

Thanks for support 👍🏽

[@matthvids]

Very nice!!!!

[@joshgreaves9934]

Very very nice!

[@sonny1980]

Where can I get the evo you have?? I love the red anodized aluminum.

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

Can't get exact like mine. But will make a video on how to make one.

[@luizlu6591]

Hi, where did you download this version of the ICS manager? mine only shows 1 2 3 4 5 for reverse timer.

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

I'll find the link... I had the old version first....its confusing as both sites are by kyosho and one has the old manger.

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

www.kyosho.com/eng/support/instructionmanual/mini-z/miniz_evo.html

[@MyRCChannel-CJScott]

Hi, great videos! Would you tell me the name and model of your mini electric screwdriver? A link would be fantastic!

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

I got it off amazon. I've posted the link on one of my other videos. I'll see if I can find it

[@laurenwallace4476]

Why does the ics manager I have not have all these option

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

Check which version and if its awd or rwd

[@mfdoomtree3753]

Great vid! Thanks!

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

No problem thanks for watching

[@mfdoomtree3753]

I've been thinkn about upgrading from my MR03 RTR Camaro, some of the guys at my local rc shop/track have some real nice chassis for their open class racing. A lot of them are into pan cars but I kind of like the kyosho autoscale style bodies. I was considering this evo but I'm open to any other suggestions you might have.

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

Depends on your skill level and what you want out of the car. The evo is a good all round car that works and is reliable. For more performance comes less reliability. I love gl racing. The gla awd great racer and drifter. But requires more tuning.

[@hotdognobun]

Do you recommend the 4th gear upgrade for the EVO’s?

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

the steering is pretty good standard

[@piotro1201]

What transmitter and receiver are you using

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

At the moment I’m using a sanwa , in the video nb4 / mini z evo rx

[@piotro1201]

@@GarageMiniRCUK is skyfly GT5 good for MR03 evo

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

Not sure there is a compatible receiver for the flysky gt5 . MXo racing might have one but I haven’t tested it yet

[@krissfly]

Great video. Where did you get the Electric screwdriver?

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

Amazon type in mini electric screwdriver

[@krissfly]

@@GarageMiniRCUK I got my electric screwdriver in today. Converted a front wheel drive to all wheel drive with it. Really nice thank you

[@naweedomar9212]

Where do you buy your cars from? We have nothing in South Africa and Rc mart takes so long to ship 😫

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

I'm a dealer for cars in UK

[@naweedomar9212]

@@GarageMiniRCUK where in the UK are you based? Also what package deal have you got on sale im extremely new to the hobby

[@PixelPusher0102]

love your videos! how do you do the ghost racing?

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

Overlay on imovie on macbook. Thanks for watching.

[@davidb5168]

use MARKA RACING tires they are more performing

[@GarageMiniRCUK]

Yes I do now 👍🏽

[@sonny1980]

If you want to sell it, let me know. ✌🏽