Garden Room Workshop: Part 6. Insulation & Plywood floor

[@wonkydonkey]

Mate, this is the most comprehensive ‘how to’ I’ve seen on KZbin. Love that you cover the ‘why’ of the decisions you’ve made along with the other options available. Thank you

[@AliDymock]

Cheers Andy, thanks for the feedback, glad you’re finding it useful.

[@d8ve]

It seems you've defeated the purpose of the adhesive as you are simply gluing the plywood to the tape and not the joists. That joint is now relying on your fasteners and the strength of your tapes adhesive, the caulking is moot.

[@gafynmacmillan8164]

From a fellow over-enthusiastic DIYer, I can't praise this video series enough. Impressed by the amount of research you have done and the knowledge you've gained. Love the level of detail, the explanations, the commentary, how informative they are - love it all....except for the music of course! 🤣

[@logik100.0]

(In case it's of use to others who go down the rockwool insulation under the floor. I found a tarp worked well. You have to drape it over the joists though and support it underneath. If I made my shed again I would use celotex type insulation but its was not so easily available 20 years ago. I would like to say thanks to Ali, so informative. I'm going to build an extension soon. The way its been built so well on a very tight budget is just the impetus I need.

[@MrTinosolo]

What a fantastic tutorial, these videos have given me the confidence to have a go at a much smaller but similar project. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos to such a high standard.

[@TheToolnut]

I've been a carpenter/joiner/cabinet maker for over twenty years and I have to say for a lay man you have good skills. I build a 500 sq ft workshop in much the same style as this.

[@tonymoon4525]

Hi Ali, You are amongst a few amateur DIY builders who explain everything in its most practicable form. I've watched from part 1 to part 6, and i feel confident that with your advise and instructions i can follow what you have made. Thanks for making it easy for us all. Keep up the good work.

[@AliDymock]

Thanks Tony, they were a bit sketchy editing wise at the beginning but glad the info has come through clear. This is a very doable project with a bit of thought and planning :)

[@carlb401]

Just for future reference, OSB 3 is more weather resistant than ply, and if taped also acts as an air barrier. Although unless treated with an anti slip coating, it is lethal for flooring in wood workshops when sawdust is on it. :o

[@christophemaziereacteurcom5534]

Amazing helpful job. Thanks for all the details mentionned. I'm going to do approximatly the same for a 4 by 4 meter tiny house. I think I'll use a 45 x 120 mm that should be enough.

[@pleaetrin]

I can see from the last pic of the vid, the build is wet from rain by the looks of it. Are the materials used in the vid generally OK to be outdoors and exposed to the elements for a short time? I'm considering my own build and curious about how long I have to put into it before erecting a roof to help keep the bulk of rain away

[@TheBestOfBest83]

Why this guy have only 45k fucking sub he deserve 1 milion easy fucking KZbin DO SOMTHING !!!!!

[@richarddunn504]

Hi, excellent video series, I was curious that the underside of your floor insulation was exposed are you not concerned about moisture or rodents getting into the PIR? Thanks

[@AliDymock]

Cheers Richard. Moisture: - nope, the space below allows air flow to remove moisture, just like in a house Rodents: - again no, they don't really get into PIR and would struggle to climb up there. It's honestly no different to how a house's floor is made (just better insulated!)

[@Manu-fv4cc]

As a carpenter of over 20 years of experience, the most significant risk of doing this way is that you create a condensation on the surface of the insulation that you are using and the plywood, which it’s called interstitial condensation. The condensation of course will give you mould forming and potential health problems. Without mentioning that this will damage throughout time the floor deck structure and plywood floor. Avoiding the risk of condensation can be very complex as a wide range of variables come into play. My advice is never put insulation on floor as its the foundation of the shed. Also it does not add any extra values.

[@TrotterG]

Is there any realistic concern of elements or animals messing up foam board insulation? It crossed my mind to put some treated 1/2in ply underneath the insulation, but I'm not sure if that's overkill. I want to get the floor right, because I'll have no crawl space to make changes once I build on it.

[@Squats200]

Ive never come across such a good helpful DIY video on the whole of KZbin. Thank you!

[@AliDymock]

:)

[@Rotachannel]

Hey man, does OSB needs room to expand too ? Or theses gaps are only for PLYwood method. THANKS in advance

[@Ravi-or6xc]

Thanks very much for the informative videos. You have a new subcsriber!!

[@mohammadrahman149]

This video is (the whole garden room/workshop videos) about 3 years old but still the most comprehensive video on KZbin. Going to start my project soon and i am a novice at this but your videos have truly inspired me to do it myself rather than getting someone in to coming in a doing it. My project will be smaller as i am looking at 4m x 3m but some great ideas between you and 'rag n bone brown'. thanks

[@AliDymock]

Great stuff! Well done for giving it a go

[@johnharris-qr9jj]

Why not use caber flooring ? and bonding plywood to tape is pointless as it's only bonded to tape not subfloor. Not being negative just not right.

[@danielroots9420]

Very good again! When can we expect more ?

[@AliDymock]

Thanks! I’m trying to keep to a bi-weekly schedule. It’s the working out of how to present the information that takes the time...

[@antonyward8075]

What thickness Of Plywood Did You Use For The Floor?

[@alistuart5128]

Some one said to me burr ooo no insects love PIR board and the bottom of the base should be sealed. I haven’t done this, I’ve done the same as you. Have you heard this re insects and if so did you take it into consideration?

[@brianpomeroyfilms]

That second hand PIR is very attractive. Shame they won't deliver to my address. 😕

[@tomkan5173]

Hi, did you consider SIPs in your build? I've been reading about them and they look like the future!

[@AliDymock]

Yeh I looked at them and have seen them be used in Scotland a lot, well worth considering but I went for traditional framing for more control and flexibility. Wouldn't rule them out for the next build though!

[@adriancopestake887]

Never have I come across a diy vid with such attention to detail...... you narration is impeccable. Perhaps you could get a job at the BBC?

[@AliDymock]

Heheh thanks Adrian. You know, I did always want to be the next Attenborough...🤓

[@adriancopestake887]

@@AliDymock Or Charlie Dimmock LOL

[@RaphaelTheSirion]

What's your thoughts on mice etc trying to nest into the PIR boards?

[@gavintaylor737]

Absolute legend the girlfriend and I wanted a extension on the house but found it will be cheaper to jst build a summer house down the bottom of the garden and your videos are exactly what I have been looking for can't wait to see it done. Keep up the good work buddy cheers.

[@imnothere220]

Ideally, I wonder if you were building the floor again would you put on battens of some sort for the PIR to sit down on a bit beyond the small battens put in place? Maybe they will do the job, but I'd like I think if i was doing it to see them sit down flush and tape from the underneath as well purely for the sake of overkill. But absolutely well done on ply over OSB. The fact that builders use OSB in areas of potential damp ingress boggles the mind.

[@danielcookeb90]

Definitely protect the exposed cut edges of the flooring, on all edges! Especially as the external walls are going to sit on the flooring?? Also, no need to leave gaps on the flooring sheets. Plywood is STABLE and does not expand and contract - due to 90° thin layers and glue. Brilliant series. Just come across your series, and loving it. Going to binge the lot!😂😂 Selling my house to buy something run down to do up, and set up my own garage workshop like this. Great series! Would it be worth revisiting with new cost options? One thing i didn't understand from early permitted developments - how can you have a 3m roof mono pitch, with a max 2.1 ceiling joist? 3m back wall to a 2.1m front wall, with sloping roof?? Also, from memory where is datum taken from to measure heights?? My back garden slopes up from the house!🙄

[@MikeDawsonArt]

Loving these videos - about to start my own project similar to this.

[@spatel3783]

amazing and detailed explanations, so useful!

[@Drheat007]

Wat a video Ffs , change that silly music

[@mjstatic77]

Hi, I’m converting half my single brick garage into a games room (approx 4x4 metres), do you think it’s necessary to insulate all walls, floor and ceiling? Would too much heat be lost if I just insulted the floor and ceiling?

[@davybull072]

Hi Ali, Just a quickie..... Do you have any "bounce" in your floor? I'm thinking of building a snooker room 8m x 5m. A 12' x 6' snooker table can weigh anything from 1200kgs to 1800kgs spread over 8 legs and I'm wondering if the pier foundations would be OK? Great series by the way really informative.

[@tammyfinch5469]

I am an Architectural Draftsman so I enjoyed this whole series. Well...except for that irritating music. I had to keep turning the sound off then missed part of what you were saying.

[@AliDymock]

Thanks Tammy. Yeh the music is divisive, some love it some hate it!

[@jonnyg78]

I've actually came onto the comments section to find out if there's a story to the music as I find it fits the video quite well. Great work with the series, Im really enjoying it too!

[@eamonnonolan1330]

Hi Ali - love your work here....we've just started our log cabin in the forest....quick question, floor insulation going in this week.... You mentioned that foil-backed PIR needs 'several centimetres space above it' to properly reflect the heat back up. I've battened out my joists to make the insulation flush...worth re-doing this? It'll make sealing each joist bay more difficult.. Thanks!

[@michaelodonovan1908]

Follwing keenly. Can't wait to see what you clad it with.

[@paulwoodroffe6377]

Hi All, I'm looking at my floor currently and can afford XPS 100, 100mm this polystyrene, or around 60mm PIR; I'm not really sure which one would be best. My wood thickness is 100mm. Any opinions? Which would be better?

[@jazzman1954]

Great info and communication. Very annoying music 😂

[@VideoandfilmsolutionsCoUk]

Great video and I'm enjoying the series.

[@mphys5370]

Another very insightful and clear video

[@nicevans4987]

Hi. Thanks for these videos. Great source of information. I have a couple of questions if I may. On the video of the span stats, you said about when choosing the depth of your timber, this would effect the thickness of your flooring on top. I don't think you mentioned it again. ? I was hoping to go with the first one on the chart for the floor. 38mm by 97mm at 600mm centres which means I have to set my blocks at no more than 1.3m apart. I'm fine with that as blocks are virtually free lol. Will I be OK with 18mm thick osb or ply on top? I was thinking of rubber strips on the joists to help sound proof and also get to the magic 100mm for my PIR insulation. Also, can the walls be erected straight onto the frame and not the osb ? If why not. Many thanks and thanks for your time...

[@joehart3826]

Why not use 'duvet' style insulation, multifoil layer stuff, I thought that outperformed PIR

[@paddykelly5745]

Ali, loving these videos, can't wait to see how it ends up. I'm building a very similar structure at the moment. I wondered about the vapour barrier in the floor. You went for Celotex and then sealed that with the foil tape which would have give you a vapour barrier. I can't afford Celotex for my room so I've gone for some really thick polystyrene instead.. (something better than nothing etc). Would you add a layer of plastic over the top to create a vapour barrier? I can't find many sources of info on this

[@AliDymock]

It is ridiculously expensive at the moment! Yeh definitely better than nothing. I would use one as if nothing else it will stop draughts coming in and general air leaks which cost a lot on the heating bills. You'll see in the next vid (part 10) how I use this on the roof: www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Green-Polythene-Vapour-Barrier---2-5-x-20m/p/153230. Of course, all the screws pierce it as they do for foil tape but overall it's worth doing I'd say.

[@paddykelly5745]

Yeah it's crazy money. I'm going to opt for rockwool in the walls and only use celotex or similar in the roof. I'm hoping it will be enough. Thanks for the advice on the vapour barrier. Floor goes down next weekend. I can't wait to start work on the carpentry after what feels like weeks of digging and demolishing!

[@AliDymock]

I think that sounds sensible. It'll be fine! I know the feeling Paddy, couldn't wait to be finished with demo/digging/blocks! But don't worry, you'll soon feel the same about the floor 😆

[@akiyajapan]

This was just what I've been looking for. I'm about to pull up my floorboards, level everything, and then install the insulation and plywood as you did here, before replacing the hardwood on top. It seems that every video I've watched up until this point left out something! Thank you very much!

[@retneprac]

why dont use chipboard?

[@peterforman5169]

Great video series. I am using your videos and principles used to build a glamping pod. Can I ask why you say 'don't use chipboard' for the floor? Thanks in advance.

[@maheshmepani1765]

Hello Ali, I’ve watched your vid numerous times and yep you’ve convinced me to give it a go myself.I’m going to be making the same size 30m2 so would you please be able to tell me what quantities of materials I need. Thanks

[@jaxon321]

these are brilliant. I'm planning on "attempting" to build something similar this summer. how often and how much time did you work on yours?

[@AliDymock]

Good question! I was wondering when someone would ask me that. Quite a lot of time is the answer and there's still a way to go with electrics and plumbing etc. However, I've been working out everything as I go along which shouldn't be the case for you with these videos! I reckon that 3 months working some evenings and weekends is doable to get a reasonably water-tight structure but I'd try to get the foundations done in April/May so you have those 3 months for the floor, walls and roof.

[@jmerey]

The timing of finding this video is incredible for me. Thanks for creating this really useful video. Your build looks very similar to my plans.

[@AliDymock]

Cool! Welcome to the channel Jamie!

[@richardwarkentin3541]

I’m currently replacing a rotten floor on an insulated out building in manitoba where winters can be as cold as minus 40! Planning to replace insulation with styrofoam. Is an inside vapour barrier necessary?

[@captainwaldo]

I'm really enjoying your videos, so helpful, but my god it's so annoying how loud the music is compared to vocals, I spend so much time turning the volume up and down 😔. Other than that your videos are some of the best I've seen so thank you

[@hi-tech55]

Hi Ali, Enjoying the videos. I am just going to construct a garden room. I am going to construct a floor like yours but concerned about rodents getting into the PIR from underneath.

[@franks-kitchen]

Hi Ali, one question. How do you protect underneath the floor section? I.e. If I was to look up from underneath, would I see bear joists and PIR or did you protect it?

[@benhollingshead1408]

Agree with all the comments here, really informative vids so thank you! - considering there are so many people doing something similar it’s surprising how little decent info there is out there. A lot of it seems to contradict each other, especially regarding breathable membranes for walls, so looking forward to seeing how you went about that?

[@AliDymock]

It's a popular trend right now for sure! There is some wrong info out there but a lot of it is subjective and there's no right way, so it's best not to get hung up on it. Other than the foundations I'm building mine properly, like they build a house in the US, with few shortcuts or cost savings but everyone has a different need so there's little wrong with doing things differently. No doubt as more people find this video there'll be people disagreeing with this or that. As for the breathable membrane-see sneak peak in Part 3-you can see the Tyvek housewrap - proper stuff!

[@ptaf92]

Another question Ali please. At 9:05 i can see the plywood on the right side it didn’t fall on a joist, so what did you do in this situation?

[@AliDymock]

You mean the long side of the ply? Generally this doesn't need support, adding in noggins in a straight line exactly where the side of the ply is can be done but that's a lot of noggins. 18mm ply spanning 400mm/16" joists will feel pretty firm. It's the same in your house, floorboards aren't supported at the sides, even before tongue and groove came along.

[@romanakashif8825]

Hi Ali, I am doing a proect and was wondering, if there will be a vermin issue if the insulation (celotex) is open to elements when sitting inside the timber frame.

[@tonyjones9141]

Hi Ali, we are building ours and have sized it to be 3 full board sheets - would you still stagger the boards or just lay them fully down. Seems odd to cut one just to offlay? cheers

[@alaskalograft]

Great vid. Will use it on cabin in Alaska. Pass on the annoying music though. Thanks

[@misterjaypeasmith]

Having watched the series about 10 times through now 😅 is this the part where you wouldn’t bother with the aluminium foil but use the polythene vapor barrier and wrap it under the plywood?

[@FALCON390Workshop]

Super useful series. Thanks a lot!

[@JackPott554]

Great videos. Just realised thats my local building merchants. They are good guys, love a shop where you can buy screws one at a time

[@robertmoseley6457]

The underside of the joists would need some form of sheathing, (sterling board) to stop rodents chewing the celotex they love it .

[@CRUMZ_ZLINKY]

This is such a great video, thanks so much for sharing, this has helped me in doing a summer house for a friend

[@markveganism5003]

Would 25mm celetex do for a floor ? The floor will have a laminate with insulation underlay also

[@stellachrisanthou9118]

Great videos, I've nearly finished my (tiny) garden room but i WISH I'd seen these earlier....builders assume you just know all this stuff! very informative, thanks

[@AliDymock]

Yeh they assume it's obvious stuff lol

[@adamfergie87]

How much flex is there in the floor? I want to do this to put a snooker table in. This means there can't be any flex at all.

[@AliDymock]

Not much at all. If you jump up and down there might be a very slight bounce but otherwise pretty sturdy. So you probably wouldn't want to drop weights on it (for a gym) but a snooker table that is stationary would be fine. Walking around wouldn't move the balls at all.

[@jpk2742]

Curious to why he thinks not to use chipboard when it's clearly the best product for this. That's why we use it on houses.

[@AliDymock]

It's about DIYing. So if you can keep the floor dry throughout the build because you can get the roof on quickly, chipboard is a good choice. If it's likely to get wet then I think ply will not suffer as much as chipboard. There is of course waterproof chipboard like this which would be a good call: www.egger.com/shop/en_GB/egger-protect If you are able to build the walls without having a finished floor then you can put down flooring after the roof is on. Chipboard would be my go-to in this case.

[@rich3633]

Really diligent. Everything done properly. Excellent series. Well done. Subscribed.

[@fred_gwatkin]

Loving this series! Really appreciate the level of detail and editing behind every episode, thank you 👍

[@AliDymock]

Glad you like them Fred!

[@bgfoster]

Just found this series, really helpful as it's almost exactly the same as what I'm currently building. One thing that's bothering me though is whether or not a ply floor will stand up to the rain while I'm building it? I think my ply is the same as yours, but I've already noticed a bit that seems to be de-laminating on the edge and it's been under a tarp since I got it a few weeks ago! I'm also concerned about standing the walls on the ply floor as that would make it impossible to replace in future. Any thoughts? Is it worth bringing it inside the walls perhaps (that would involve fitting a load of noggins for it to rest on)?

[@makolic1]

did you vent the void under the floor ??

[@bcostell69]

great series, I wish I had seen this a few years ago, I have a steel shed I need to insulate and thinking about the options on the concrete floor and whether I need the walls and roof to be cold , or fully insulated, and the moisture requirements .

[@lloyd4011]

Nice work, bomb proof video!

[@BS25999]

'Screws three times the width of the material'.. That made me laugh. Great vid thanks.

[@marklovatt7539]

What size floor joist are they?

[@richyansen]

Wish I'd found these sooner! Currently renovating an outbuilding and this is really helpful 😁

[@neiljpearce]

Great video series Ali. Just one thing for people to be aware of and that is that you don't get the insulation benefit from the aluminium foil covering of Celotex unless you have an air gap between that reflective cover and the next material. So where you lay the plywood directly on top of the Celotex you aren't getting that benefit from the product but you are still achieving the "U" values you were after. The reflective benefit can come in cavity walls where there is still an air gap between the Celotex and the brickwork.

[@AliDymock]

Thanks Neil. The main reason for taping the floor was a vapour barrier but had hoped it would reflect infrared radiant heat back towards the building too. Do you know why it need the air gap around it exactly?

[@neiljpearce]

Ali Dymock yes it is back to your GCSE Physics lessons on heat transfer. Essentially three types Conduction, convection and radiation. Conduction is the most efficient so when things are touching then this will be the primary form of heat transfer. With your celotex it is touching the reflective surface which is touching the ply which is touching the flooring so the heat will move backwards and forwards through the materials via conduction. For the reflective/radiant barrier to be efficient at all and not dominated by the convection then you need to break the conductive link. You do this with an air gap minimum an inch. This allows the reflective material to reflect the radiant heat back. You can test this with a frying pan on the stove. Obviously if you put your hand on it it will burn if you put your hand six inches away you will feel a strong heat but if you put a bit of tin foil in between you won’t feel the heat. Put the tin foil directly in the pan and it conducts the heat like the rest of the pan and your hand will feel hot again! The celotex and tape does a good job as a vapour barrier though and the celotex as a pure non-conductive material does a good job too.

[@AliDymock]

Brilliant. I love an analogy. Might have to use that one in the video after next. Thanks for taking the time

[@Dan_TheMedic]

@@neiljpearce This is interesting and too late for my build as my floor has been constructed using Ali's videos as an instructional guide. Neil Pearce - if I apply your method to my walls, won't I need some form of ability for air to actually get INTO the walls to circulate in the first place? I've not even bought any PIR for my walls yet as I'm waiting until I've routed my cabling for electrics, but I too have used 4x2 stud walling. The 4x2 actually measures a depth of around 95mm so was intending buying 90mm PIR, however, based on your info I would need to go a lot thinner than that to gain a sufficient 'gap' for air, and then I would need to look at how I get air into the walls to circulate like the roof. I'm using your 'air gap' method for my 'cold roof' system (unlike Ali, I don't have the ability to build up to use a 'warm roof' option due to Permitted Developments), and will have vents at the front and back between my roof joists and the gap over my PIR for air to circulate.

[@danradford1570]

Great series of videos thanks! I am in the planning stages of a similar but smaller project. I need planning due to being in a national park, so hopefully no 2.5m height limit. What do you think of using a floating floor with the PIR on top of the subframe rather than between the joists to save the trouble of cutting it?

[@CharlieChapling]

Love it, cant wait to start my garden room in the summer

[@DA_Peak]

What thickness of obc board do I need for floor

[@tomfindlay5415]

Hi again Ali, another great vid. Love the channel and all the information within. Keep it up mate.

[@AliDymock]

Thanks again Tom, will do!

[@blackterminal]

Pir is that foam board?

[@timmade]

Can't remember if the table was in this video or not as I have watched so many of your videos now but you quoted required U values for building regs. Just trying to find the source of that info. Looking on the kingspan site I can see something like that but it doesn't seem to match your numbers. How have you categorised your building? Domestic/non-domestic? New build/extension? I want to use my garden room in a similar way to you but would like the option for it to be a nice office for someone who might not want a workshop. I have seen U values around 0.11 range rather than the 0.2-0.3 that you have quoted. Just wondering If i am reading the tables correctly Thanks

[@AliDymock]

What's the link to the Kingspan U-values?

[@timmade]

@@AliDymock www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/products/insulation/kingspan-insight/building-regulations

[@timmade]

www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/products/insulation/kingspan-insight/building-regulations@@AliDymock

[@timmade]

@@AliDymock here is the link. Where did you get your figures from. I much prefer yours!!

[@timmade]

@@AliDymock did you manage to open my link? Just wondering what you thoughts were. I am trying to budget how much my insulation is going to be and I just don't know what values I should be aiming for.

[@avaliretro]

Great videos really useful. Starting a similar build but one question - what quantities of the materials did you order? I.e. timbers. Thanks

[@AliDymock]

Gosh I can't remember exactly. I plan to go through everything in a future video. You can probably pause the vids and work out exactly how many timbers I used etc but your best bet is to create a sketch of what you want to build and figure it all out from there :)

[@peterparker9997]

Hi Ali, I love this series of videos, you've inspired me to build a Log cabin at the end of the garden and I'll be using the same "Block and wooden frame base construction as you. In this video you mention about not using Chipboard Flooring but, don't give a specific reason why? I was thinking of using Egger Protect Coated weather Resistant Chipboard flooring.

[@bigtrox999]

Yes I was thinking the same. I will be using a DPM over the top to keep it dry until I have my roof on. Egger protect is no longer available that’s y I’m using a different brand but keeping the DPM on it

[@dielwjones]

This is excellent. Could I ask how you knew the ground under the blocks wouldn't sink under the weight? (what constitutes good ground for laying down the hardcore). We have quite clay like soil. Thanks for the tutorial, really clear

[@AliDymock]

Blind hope mostly 😉 I just got down to ground that felt undisturbed and really firm. Clay has it's issues but it's not going to collapse under your blocks. Go deeper, pour concrete first if you are worried though

[@VladimirBogdanov33]

Hello! How is the floor of plywood after the time of usage? Mold isn’t a problem? Have you noticed, does floor expansion gaps during summer/winter period really changes their sizes?

[@AliDymock]

I've had no mould, as long as your roof does it's job, it's not a problem. I did get mould before the roof got on but it dies when deprived of moisture! To be honest, I never noticed any change or expansion/contraction. Ply tends to be dimensionally stable so the expansion gaps are more of a precaution.

[@davidjones8680]

Annnoying music.

[@AfricanSouthernCross]

Addictive...once you watch the first one you simply need to watch the rest...great upload.

[@SuperParatech]

Very helpful and appreciated. Thanks for video

[@lexayyubhfdshvfjwndg]

Fantastic design!!! I love this for every one

[@kguyb1]

Hi Ali, Can you provide details on what my base should consist of, from the ground up, what holds the base insulated panels in position? Is there anything to protect it from the elements at ground level?

[@AliDymock]

Hi Kevin, are you going for a similar timber floor to mine? If so you can probably copy most of what I do in Parts 4, 5 and 6. If under PD 2.5m then you'll want your piers closer to the ground than mine appear. I'll tackle the issue of the insulation being bare underneath in an upcoming video.

[@bradleyneill9926]

Been looking through KZbin for some real guidance on building my cabin. Was looking for how to create the timber frame. Your videos and in depth explanations are excellent. Thanks.

[@AliDymock]

Glad I could help!

[@paulguimaraes5384]

Cani ask why go for osb3 or playwood and not chipboard? i was thinking of using that P5 t&g moisture resitsant chipboard.

[@AliDymock]

If it's moisture resistant, yes by all means or indeed if you're able to keep it dry then it doesn't matter so much.

[@Jon_Waz]

Get rid of the loud ass music. Also, if you're going towant your viewers to get information, don't put text on the screen, simply narrate.

[@AliDymock]

Thanks for the feedback John, I appreciate it 👍

[@markdudson202]

Hi. Thanks for a very informative video, I am planning an almost identical project and have undertaken similar investigation to yourself. I'm looking at using T&G OSB floor boards to provide better locking and squeak resistance, although I will be covering them with some for of laminate timber for a final finish - any thoughts as I notice you have gone for butt joint plywood? Looking forward to the next vid, keep up the great work!

[@AliDymock]

Hi Mark, that's cool- it's very rewarding! hmmm- one reason I didn't use T&G is because it's harder to find but I'm sure it helps make the spacing easier. That said I don't think it provides any other benefit, especially as you'll be covering it. Two things I'd say: 1. make sure you're happy with your foundations and insulation below as T&G is hard to pull up as it all locks together. 2. don't screw into the last joist before you've got your next sheet in as this may mess up the T&G and make the next sheet harder to slot in. There's definitely no one way of building so go with what you think is best for you- in this case it probably won't make a great deal of difference in the long run.👍

[@scottmclean4237]

I know how u mean. I went to college for 2 years doing carpentry and joinery. Tho to be fair you look better than me ha. I would have to pay someoneto do my electrical work too . Can't have it all can we. Where did you get your insulation from, wickes, huws gray? I will be putting in double glazing when I get to start mine. 2nd hand units really cheap and you jus bukld the opening in the walls so any Windows you see you can use , save getting specific sizes. I will look forward to your vids. What do you do for a living

[@AliDymock]

I got mine from Insulation Express, which has terrible customer service due to being recently bought out. The depots they deliver from are on the ball though. Definitely look at Seconds and co for second hand stuff if you're on a strict budget. Yeh I was going to use second hand, even picked up some patio doors but I couldn't stand the white colour, did think about painting using UVPC paint but decided to plump out for some new grey ones. Bought from ModernUVPCWindows and they've been excellent.

[@alistuart5128]

Excellent series of videos.

[@davek284]

Brilliant video Ali, i am starting to build a garden room next week and this has been very helpful, thank you. Roughly how long did it take you from frame assembly through to finished subfloor? I am hoping for about 4/5 days work (mostly on my own) but i have a terrible track record of underestimating how long things actually take haha!

[@AliDymock]

Everyone underestimates time, effort and cost of construction so you're not alone. This whole project, I didn't really know what I was doing, everything was new to me and there weren't great videos about to show how it's done so it took me a long time. I think the floor was around a week but I reckon now I could do it in a couple of days if I really went at it. The hammering in of the square twist nails is rather time consuming though.