Diagnose V/W G68 Speed Sensor

In this video, i diagnose a failsafe condition with Vag code 00281, G68 Speed sensor no signal. This trans uses 3 speed sensors, G68, G38, G22, Quick tip, a malfunctioning G68 speed sensor circuit could also produce a code for a G38 speed sensor. The key is to see if you have voltage going to the sensors

[@burbman60]

Thank you!!! back on the road after replacing both sensors and clearing the codes. 2003 TDI sport wagon MK4. Was an easy replacement, gave me a chance to clean behind battery, airbox, and other stuff I removed.

[@GaryFerraro]

Thanks for sharing, glad you got it fixed

[@burbman60]

@@GaryFerraro This car is worth fixing and driving, 38mpg and everything else is in good condition with 320,000mi on it. No reason to let it go.

[@Fopenplop]

if i took a shot for every time someone in a car repair video said "i don't know if you can see that" while pointing at absolutely nothing i would be dead many times over

[@arminbeyg6608]

Great explanation thank you 🙏

[@GaryFerraro]

Thanks for watching

[@naushadali95]

excellent diagnosis

[@Longoria...]

Great job. Thanks for sharing.

[@TheDickMan_]

Hi Gary. Excellent video. I have a 98 Cabrio with the 01m trans. Im coming up with a p0501 code. My speedo works after the car has been sitting overnight but as soon as the car warms up about 15 mins or so of driving the mph needle gauge just start starts acting weird bouncing all around. At times itll sit at 0mph while driving and then will come back to life again for a few mins and then stop moving again. Since there are 3 sensors which one should i look for or examine first? Id appreciate any help! Thanks.

[@autonosv6new1]

Hi Gary.Like the video. I have 2.5 v on the yellow wire at the connector when unplugged and using a voltmeter. The black wire i suspect is GRD. Should there be a reading at the centre white wire.

[@GaryFerraro]

That may be signal return, wheels may have to be moving, if you have good voltage, sensor may be no good

[@pauliroha5506]

Thanks for your video. Here is my case: I have an issue with my 2002 VW Bora (VIN: WVWZZZ1JZ2W000258), which is so strange to me. I have a "no communication" issues between my Engine control module (ECM) and my transmission control module (TCM). When you scan (with VAGCOM) the TCM, these codes are gotten: 00518, 00529, 00545, 01314. On the ECM, you have 01315 code. On the CAN gateway, 001315 Now, when you start the car for the first time in the day, it revs up and attempts to stall. The second and subsequent starts follow the normal start sequence. When you engage the car on drive mode, the car shifts normally from gears 1-4. After some time, it will now stay in gear 3 and will not upshift or downshift from there. If you turn off the engine and restart the car again, the shifting returns to normal. This cycle continues once in every 2hrs or your driving pattern. The power feeds and grounds to both TCM and ECM are good. The CANBUS wires resistance on both modules re good(62 ohms as stated in the technical service bulletin). When you check some measuring block values on the TCM, you could see communication between the VAGCOM and the TCM. The fuses of these modules are also very good. The relays are also in good order. I have cleaned the throttle valve body also. I have done everything I could but cannot get to the cause of this mystery on my car.

[@GaryFerraro]

k, so if you clear the codes, they all come back?

[@pauliroha5506]

Yes they do come back

[@GaryFerraro]

The vag codes for the trans are all comm. codes . Does it have what they would be in "P" codes. Like the 00518, does it display what that would be in a "P" code

[@shaywerker2166]

I have the same codes on my 2002 Golf MK4 2.0L 01M transmission (reset and it comes back after couple of miles) - Did you find out how to fix it? I assume the 00518 (G69) is the TPS read by TCM? or is it using another sensor? As for the 00529 - Engine speed signal Missing - which sensor out of the 3 this code refers to? finally the 00545 - Engine Transmission connection open or short to ground - which connection between TCM and ECM is it? Thanks for the video!

[@GaryFerraro]

The engine speed may be a crank sensor, Tps may be read by both ecm and tcm, what codes do you have at the ecm

[@marcosmejia3259]

That was perfect . Thanks

[@robertsylvestre5299]

2009 CC 3.6 4motion....p0721 output speed sensor range/performance .09G trans i think.. I have replaced the OSS 2 times and replaced the valve body. it lloks like on the scan tool Voltage is bouncing from .06-1.2. I am going to assume a broken wire or ground?

[@GaryFerraro]

Probably bad wire, put the scan tool on, read voltage and move harness around see if volts change

[@gcfdxfzsd]

Hello! I have a '03 Jetta with a 01M FDF trans. The issue I'm experiencing is no 3rd or 4th gear engagement - it shifts fine from 1st to 2nd, but when it tries for 3rd gear it free revs until I come back to a stop and take off again, then the process repeats. Reverse gear, 1st, and 2nd feel awesome - no abnormal noises either. No codes stored in the TCM. Do you think I should swap in another valve body, or do you figure the problem is internal within the transmission? Thanks!

[@GaryFerraro]

The valvebodies do have problems but this sounds like a bad clutch pack

[@hippydude1]

Hi mate did you ever get it done. I've got exactly the same thing wrong with mine.

[@gcfdxfzsd]

@@hippydude1 for me, it was a failed clutch pack like Gary suspected. Needed a rebuild.

[@hippydude1]

@@gcfdxfzsd cheers buddy. I will check that out. I have a feeling it was probably that

[@fahadmahfooz5753]

Thank you so much

[@GaryFerraro]

Thanks for watching

[@matthewlee2686]

I think I've narrowed it down to the computer being bad. I'm only getting 1.8volt at the computer with the sensor unplugged and 1.6 volts with the plug plugged up. Also no volts when car is running.

[@GaryFerraro]

Check power and grounds at the computer as well

[@AphiweNyembe]

Help I'm stuck on 3rd gear on drive

[@ranegmc2552]

thank you

[@GaryFerraro]

Thanks for watching

[@ashleehill3786]

I'm having the same code on a 2002 VW beetle with the O1M trans but I'm also getting another code with it. The input/ turbine speed sensor A circuit, they are both hard faults that immediately reoccur. Unfortunately I only have a generic scan tool but it does do some limited live data. I can see the vehicle speed displayed correctly when I go into the engine live data, but when I go to the A/T live data it shows 0 all the time. The car is stuck in limp mode n driving me crazy! Could this be a wiring issue too even thou I'm getting the P0722 and the P0715 codes? This also happened last year but went away as soon as the weather got warm? Is there anything that outside temp could mess with to your knowledge? I'm pretty sure there was a TSB for a wiring overlay on the G68 harness on these cars. I can't seem to locate a place to look at or read the TSBs without them wanting me to pay for it. I would like to try to troubleshoot this and figure it out and would greatly appreciate any input. And would you happen to know what the resistance specs for the G68 are? I was told I can tell if the sensor is bad if the resistance is not right. Thank you in advance.

[@GaryFerraro]

You probably have a wiring problem, have you checked the voltage at the sensor like I do in the video? Having a problem with one sensor can make others sensor codes show up

[@ashleehill3786]

Yes, I checked the voltage at the connector. I have a Fluke just like the one you used in the video and its showing the exact same voltage as yours did~ 2.514V~ on pin one (the yellow wire). Is there anything that outside climate could effect to cause this? Maybe low or dirty fluid? I have never changed it, but i plan to soon as i can. It seems like it's kinda complicated to change or even check the fluid level for that matter... I'm new to VW so I'm still learning alot. Another thing that may or may not be relevant, right around the same time when all this started my key began to randomly get stuck in the ignition n not come out till it decides it wants too. Lol.. could be 5 MINS could be 5 days.. also my gear selector lights (on the actual shifter not on the instrument panel) don't light up anymore. The shift lock engagment light, beside the letters at the top still lights up, but none of the letters do. I'm not sure if that matters. I also noticed that none of the screws are in the console part or the surrounding panels that encases the shifter assembly, e- brake, cup holders, ext.. could someone tried to remove the center console piece incorrectly and messed something up somehow?? Someone was saying something about a clock spring but I have no clue what that even is... I really appreciate you taking the time out of your day to try to help me. It's means alot, reminds me that there are still good people in the world. I wish I knew someone close here in KY that had Vag-Com. I'm sure it would make things so much easier.. Thank you again.

[@GaryFerraro]

@@ashleehill3786 ok, if voltage is good, may just be a bad sensor, have you tried clearing the codes to see what comes back? did you say you have a scanner that shows live data?

[@ashleehill3786]

@@GaryFerraro Sorry so long to reply dont have internet at home n my phone ran outta mins but just finally got a card for it so I'm back online finally, its been driving me crazy... Yes I cleared the codes time n time again and they come straight back as pending codes then soon they are under permanent codes... one other thing about this car I HAVE NEVER seen the check engine light come on EVER. It's not on now not when turn the key over to start it either, its just not there... maybe bulb is bad?? I couldn't even tell you where its supposed to be at on the dash cause I've never seen it.. Lol. Another weird thing happened yesterday my middle back brake light, the one on the hatch, just randomly turned on by its self. Hadnt been no where near the car I just happened to look outside n see that it was on.. The side ones weren't on. Just the middle. I thought it was the sun but it wasn't. I tried turning the lights off n on hitting the brake n starting the car one of those made it go off I guess... it was weird. The scanner i have has limited live data, it doesn't graph or anything. I can see long term n short term fuel trims, 02 sensor B1+B2 voltage, coolant temp, EQ_RAT11, RPM, VSS, IAT, MAF, TP%, SPARKADV°, LOAD_PCT(%), FUELSYS1 (Which says OL-fault most of the time which I know is open loop but I'm not sure why its doing that either.) It has a "engine" and a "A/T" section you pick to get live data or read codes from each one separately.. The live data for the A/T shows the temp, rpms, just fine but the VSS will not registering anything when you go to live data under the A/T but it shows my speed fine under the engine live data... The scanner is a Autel AutoLink AL319. It does freeze frame data too but all this computer stuff is mostly over my head..lol. Thank you again for trying to help me.

[@ashleehill3786]

@@GaryFerraro I was sitting here googling everything about VW beetles and I remembered something that could be useful. I'm not sure what all is powered or controlled by the fan modules relays or whatever those three wires are but about the same time as all this started to happen I noticed my A/c clutch fan wasn't kicking on. So I did some investigating and found that the fan had actually cut through the three wires that run over to the A/c clutch fan.. the coolant fan was still operating normally bc the cut in the wire was after it got its power. I soldered the three wires back the way they should have been. Then used heat shrink to seal and water proof them. The car had thick white exhaust (like coolant does when it gets in there from a head gasket or whatever) pretty much all the time before I fixed those wires. After I fixed them it didn't smoke at all anymore and still doesn't ... I don't know if any of that is relevant to the limp mode situation but I just remembered it so I thought I'd explain it and see what you thought?

[@jbcavaliere79]

Will the g68 make the vw not shift

[@GaryFerraro]

Yes, may put it in failsafe

[@jbcavaliere79]

@@GaryFerraro thanks one more question cause regardless im going to change it cause it makes sense but the "speedometer" sensor will it also do the same as far as not shifting thanks for your time definitely a sub out of me

[@GaryFerraro]

@@jbcavaliere79 I think i did one of those once(was a bad wire) the car shifted just produced a code that would not clear

[@victOrMazOn]

I have 2.62v in my speed sensor its normal?

[@GaryFerraro]

should be ok, are you getting a code for a speed sensor

[@matthewlee2686]

I have 1.6 volts with the ignition off and no volts with the ignition on. This is driving me nuts

[@GaryFerraro]

Where are you checking at the sensor? sure you have the correct wire

[@matthewlee2686]

@@GaryFerraro yes I'm checking the center wire. I'm now reading 2.2 volts with the key off. When I start the car the voltage goes away. Also when I plug it to the censor the voltage goes away as well. It's driving me crazy. Everything was fine until the radiator hose busted and it spewed water all over the engine and transmission and that's when the g38 code started showing.

[@matthewlee2686]

The center wire unplugged is showing 2.2 . When plugged the yellow wire is showing 2.2.. that's with the key off. When I start the car I have no voltage

[@GaryFerraro]

@@matthewlee2686 ok, so at the computer same thing? this code is a hard code, will not clear?

[@matthewlee2686]

@@GaryFerraro I haven't checked at the computer yet. I checked the end of the plug and stripped some wire and checked it there

[@sergiomeza7046]

The grace and peace be with you from the lord your God our father and his son Jesus, thank you, but how many of you know about the good news repent and believe in the gospel because the kingdom of heaven is at hand and crack your word the Bible and continue blessing you! Luke 6:20-28-35-40