Are Tubeless Tyres The Death Of Clinchers & Tubulars? | The GCN Tech Show Ep.74

[@gcntech]

What do you think about tubeless tyres, will pros stop using tubulars and clinchers?

Switched to tubeless last year and love 'em. I ride lot's of sketchy chip-seal rural roads and the odd gravel road. My front tyre has punctured 4 times this year. Each time, I have stopped, spun the wheel a few times to let the sealant do it's magic and simply rode home. I'm never going back to clinchers.

[@brankododig1585]

Don't think so, clinchers with superlight butyl tubes or latex tubes are as light as tubeless with sealant and roll at least as fast, if not faster. No performance advantage making the switch...

[@feedbackzaloop]

Ask GMBNers, if they still carry an inner tube (they do)

[@workingguy-OU812]

Tubeless tires: A friend called me up to ask if I could bring over my portable air compressor to re-seat one of her tubeless tires just last week. She called me back, though, stating that she didn't have any sealant - and it was a holiday weekend, so no places were open. Now, this was a mountain bike, but it going tubeless means that nearly everyone will now have to own an air compressor to re-seat tires that either need changed, or that - through being a second bike - just got deflated enough to un-seat, I can see how tubeless would be considered too much of a pain in the rear for average riders to maintain themselves.

[@wowcherub]

@@brankododig1585 This is incorrect- the RR advantage of TL vs a latex tube is still significantly more advantageous. When I say significantly i'm talking marginal gains but as a road/tt racer its a big difference. Check RR testing.

[@Grunge_Cycling]

Man......here I thought I was too depressed to even watch the Tech Show, but I hesitantly opened it anyways. Jon's enthusiasm just cheered me up instantly! Love you, Jon!

[@martinhayes5087]

I do love my tubeless, I got a puncture front and rear last week and I managed another 30km with them spitting out sealant every so often, but I made it back safely and the tyres still retained a decent pressure, previously on tubes I've had to give up on rides and call a taxi after using the couple of tubes I had on me!

[@andrefouche5834]

Have 3 bikes with tubeless conversions, never again will i put a tube in unless i have an unsealable cut in a tyre. Excellent road holding, super fast regular puncture repair and so much more comfortable on rough chip road surface, almost like having a suspension

[@whitemountainbiking902]

Tubeless is great. But it needs to standardised throughout the industry. Its not right that some setups are so good and easy where as others are a little more of a challenge. Nail this and it will come to the masses. Well presented, thanks for a great show. 👌

[@SM_525]

I absolutely agree. There's too much wonkiness, still.

[@tomkunich9401]

Disk brakes make changing flats slow and difficult. So the pro's are shifting to tubeless and getting no flats even under horrible conditions. They also have lower rolling resistance. So what do we see here? "I'm afraid of anything new!" I've been riding for 40 years and it takes a couple of tries to get the hang of mounting them properly but then they are all hell and gone better. Imagine hard cornering without the fear in the back of your mind of a blowout?

[@tomkunich9401]

RollinRat - high pressure in a tubeless MTB tire? Part of the reason for tubeless is the ability to use lower than normal pressure. You don't sound like much of a mechanic if you'll forgive me.

[@SM_525]

@@tomkunich9401 I'm certainly not afraid of anything new. Also, your assertion with regard to rolling resistance is not universal.

[@whitemountainbiking902]

Tom Kunich, maybe he meant 80psi in the road tyres? It’s easy to pick a wrong thread here. A little harsh calling his credentials into question straight away?

[@MessyJ]

I've been riding tubeless for about 10,000 kms. They can be more fiddly but, the other day, I stopped to pull a thorn out of my front tyre before continuing my ride. It hissed for 3 seconds but had no discernible pressure loss. They allow me to run 70 psi (I'm 110 kg). Changing to tubeless has transformed my bike. They feel so much faster and the lower pressure means I can now corner with far more confidence as the front doesn't skip off every imperfection as tyres do at 110 psi. I won't go back!

[@DavidKent0407]

That mirrors my experience too.

[@andrewmcalister3462]

For tubeless sealant to work, you have to be running lower pressure. Tubeless really only works therefore for 28mm and larger tyres. The pros that got into trouble at Paris-Roubaix were generally running 25s at higher pressures (because of frame & wheel compatibility issues).

[@lifeshard1686]

I swapped to tubeless at the end of last year. I've had awful luck so far. They are near impossible to put on the rim (shout out to Pedro's levers though, without them I'm not sure it would be possible) and they have gotten really small cuts, something that wouldn't be an issue on a clincher once you swap out a tube. But the tires will not seal. I've replaced 2 tires in the past month.

[@nimaforoughi7266]

Good video today! I like Jon’s consistency when judging people’s bikes. Should do it more often

[@MrBJPitt]

I'm happy for people to move to tubeless. It creates plenty of bargains as they sell there premium wheels. Great deals in carbon tubulars now.

[@eugenem.9428]

Great idea which I hadn't thought of. Here I come "Screw riding up grades..."

[@owltune5496]

Had to screenshot the grey derosa. What a great bike and photo. 😎👍🚴🚴🚴💯

[@dsmithmcse]

I've been riding on tubeless tires on my road bike for about 3 years now. I will never go back to inner tube tires again. I do run my TP about 20% lower with tubeless. I've had several occasions where I've picked up thorns, nails and glass and every time the tires have sealed and I was able to ride home. I did find it a bit difficult to mount and seat the first set of tubeless tires I used. But, I discovered that if you spray a soapy solution onto the bead of the tire it's super easy to mount and seat the tire. I also seat the bead by inflating the tire before introducing the tubeless sealant. Once the tire bead is set I deflate, add sealant then re-inflate to desire psi. I'm truly surprised that more Pro teams have not gotten on board with tubeless tires. Just the fact that no more punctures would be a tipping point for the pro teams. I do believe that tubeless road tire are here to stay and will become the standard in the very near future

[@Adrian-sz3dk]

I’m kinda with you, but my Giant Gavia tyres won’t stay ‘set’ on the rims. Once I deflate them, the bead pops. If the damn things would stay engaged to the rims I could easily add sealant and re-inflate. Best I can do is add sealant, super-reinflate with Co2 canister to pop beads, but blow sealant everywhere. I like the ‘idea’ of tubeless but, jeez, they’re a pain in the arse to work with.

[@awildtomappeared5925]

No one should be able to ring the bell alone, it's too much power for one man!

[@richfi9576]

don't worry: Jon's a professional!

[@MTBeginner-]

With the bell comes great responsibility 😃🚴🏻

[@dapster]

Unless your name is Oliver Bridgewood. In that case, he needs to keep away from the bell, period. BTW, Ollie, please give Jon back the bell.

[@PaulMoran01]

I am a big fan of tubeless. But I mostly do adventure/gravel riding in Scotland. It's pretty awesome for off road activities. I do have them on my road bike too. I still think that there is a place for the other tyres though, especially as an inner tube can still save the day for a tubeless set up.

[@gcntech]

Absolutely Paul, tubes aren't dead yet!

[@chatlow]

I've had tubeless for a year on my propel and they have been excellent, instantly sealing one big puncture in that time and a number of smaller ones too. Pack of plugs and constant pressure checks and you're set. Unfortunately, a pothole has meant one got scrapped recently and many people will pull their hair out trying to fit and seat these to the rim - even with the right tools and compression chambers, they don't go on very easily. Even my lbs gave up and said they tend to avoid some tubeless brands

[@nicholasmontoya5369]

Which tubeless brands ?

[@bryngriffith]

Used to have clinchers but got the hump having to change inner tubes all the time so i went to the bike shop and now I've got tubeless Schwalbe Pro One's and not had a puncture since! My only problem is I'm doing L'Etape in July and they require you to take inner tubes, pointless extra weight in my opinion, i have a plug tubeless repair set, small air canister and thats all i need!

[@sorenmeyer7347]

I rode the same Raleigh frame as a bike messenger, it's an awesome frame, i love mine.

[@evangrady8059]

I had a friend of mine build up some Stan's Tubeless Alpha 340Z wheels and mounted them with Hutchinson tubeless rubber. I think I rode 7,000+ miles before my first puncture ( in a puncture prone part of the world), and I needed almost 0 maintenance. I feel like the wheels and rubber are responsive and resilient. I am sold on tubeless. will probably never ride anything else. Evan. ABQ. NM, US

[@FRamirez1A]

I have been using tubeless in my road bike for over a year now and I couldn't be happier. I always have a tube just in case, but so far i i haven't used it yet!!!!

[@krnone8057]

So can you explain - what are benefits using tubeless over clinchers in a road bike? Because I still don't get it: a tubeless set is the same weight or even a bit heavier than a clincher set (tyre is heavier, rim is heavier, sealant weight can be about the weight of a light tube + you have also weight of the valves), it is probably more expensive, maintenance is harder and more dirty. And then there are benefits of tubeless sets which I love in my mtb bike: 1. you can use lower pressure - do we need it for road bikes? I weigh 105kg and can use 5 bar or even 4 bar using tubes for my Contis GP4000 28c - does anyone need pressure lower than that in a road bike? 2. It seals small cuts and holes - but the first question is - does it really work for high pressures (I heard that the tyre can be shitting out the sealant all over the place until the pressure goes down to a value for which the hole can be sealed)? And the second question - do we need it for road bikes? I just had my first puncture on a road bike, after about 8k km of riding. Btw. it was a cut which I believe couldn't be fixed by sealant.

[@FRamirez1A]

@@krnone8057 My tubeless setup is lighter than my old tube setup. The tire is slightly heavier but the tire total weight is lighter. So far in over a year i i haven't had any flat tires and that alone is worth the change in my very own opinion. You are correct, a cut in the side won't be sealed so i always have a tube with me, but you can even get plugs for road bike tubeless tires for big holes the sealant fails to close and that is way faster than fixing a flat in a tube. I also ride MTBs so I like the fact that i have everything that i need for the tires. It is just my preference but in the end what it really matters is enjoying riding regardless of the bike setup, price, type..... It is just my opinion!

[@XX-is7ps]

I use clinchers. I've not tried tubeless, but most of the people that I know that have them find them a pain to set up, and carry inner tubes and mini-pumps with them in case of puncture. Given that the weight of sealant you inject (c. 50ml) is about the same weight as a lightweight inner tube (55g for continental supersonic), only a lot more messy and hassle to set up (not to mention can evaporate/dry up leaving the tubeless unable to seal) , I just don't understand what advantage tubeless offers. For riders who just simply want to go out and ride, clinchers are a system that is "good enough". For cars, tubeless works well because there's so much depth of tread that you're unlikely to puncture and can handle the hassle of a tyre swap (and carry a spare tyre) when it infrequently occurs. Bike tyres are necessarily thinner and punctures a reality of life. Until tyres are self-sealing, punctures will happen, carrying a spare tire with you is impractical, sealant is messy, and clinchers are a problem that doesn't need solving.

[@jochenkraus7016]

"Solving a problem that I don't have" is what I think directly after "Should I give it a try? Puncture resistance, more comfort, it's something new which means that it justifies buying new stuff etc.".

[@thisApex3D]

1) It can actually seal puncture unlike clincher 2) You can run lower PSI 3) You can still put inside tube and make it clincher. So why on earth would you go for clincher?

[@FuzzyDropbear]

Jiří Jezdinský ease of use, takes me very little time to patch up a flat on clinchers, tubeless is still puncture resistant, not proof. Most of my punctures are pretty big slices, not so much smaller ones, which renders the difference quite small for the stuffing around. YMMV, I say why not both and just choose what suits you?

[@jochenkraus7016]

@Jiří Jezdinský: Did you already try to put an inner tube in? I have concerns that this could be tricky with all that sticky snot in the tire and on the bike.

[@ryanedge1996]

I have tried putting a tube in and failed. Along with a few others i know. The beads just won't seat even with a track pump, so no chance of doing it at the side of the road. As someone else mentioned, when tubeless goes wrong, it really does mean getting a car to pick you up. I've tried tubeless and gone back to clinchers. Carrying a tube and slinging it in when you do puncture is much simpler. As others mentioned gashes too large for the fluid to seal seems to be common.

[@arepea6087]

I'm building right now a Trek carbon frame with Shimano ultegra r8000 and I went back and forth and finally decided on Hunt carbon wheels and gp5000 tubeless I think this is going to give me my best performance here in San Francisco.

[@harrylook7810]

Been using road tubeless for a year and here's one reason I won't go back to tubes. On my last Sunday group ride I was feeling great and thinking I would finally finish with the bunch instead of getting dropped on the final climb as usual. About a mile from the start of the climb though, I punctured. My buddy thought I was screwed, but I just kept riding and the puncture sealed. I rode behind my buddy with a big smile on my face, and passed him on the climb, to his absolute astonishment.

[@DavidKent0407]

I've been using tubeless for three years but they can still be very hard to set up. There is no standard for rim and tyre diameter so some tyres like the new Continental GD5000TL can be almost impossible to get onto some rims. Most of my cycling mates can't be bothered with the hassle of tubeless setups. The other important part is the effectiveness of the sealant. In my experience of about 30,000km on tubeless tyres I have concluded that the sealant needs to be one with micro crystals in it such as Orange Endurance or Stans Race Sealant. Simple latex based sealants such as ordinary Stans and many others are not reliable for sealing a hole at the higher pressures of road tyres.

[@hogiewan]

I have some tubeless wheels on the way - thanks for the info. I will probably run then with tubes at first, then switch to tubeless at the first tire change.

[@tomkunich9401]

I don't have any trouble mounting and have gone from Orange to Finish Line which works as well and lasts longer. Tubeless work so well that the only time I know I had a puncture is when the stone or piece of glass sticks in the tire and thump, thump, thump. I brush it off and continue. The weight of the sealant is not rolling weight since most of it remains at the road surface of the tire. You can tell the difference immediately.

[@gadsden472]

Same as Michael. Thanks. Have my gp5000tls in 28, my carbon wheelset, just deciding on color scheme, valves/sealant/tape and a few bits for my new build. Don't even have a thousand miles yet this season and have already had 3 punctures. Can't wait for my tubeless set up

[@biketubebrand1307]

@@tomkunich9401 As you ride, about half of the sealant coats the entire inside of the tire, rotating with it, while the rest sits in a puddle near the road, creating shear friction.

[@awesomexistence]

Biketube Brand, maybe at about 3mph or less. The sealant will be dispersed throughout the tire, quickly, when up to speed with absolutely no friction. Show me some studies that say otherwise.

[@markalfresco]

I am going tubeless this week for first time on my gravel bike, hopefully I will love it🤪

[@automaticraccon]

You will.

[@mrblue.tit.8906]

8 months in hat your thought? I'm looking to switch tubless next week.. little nervous

[@JasCar1967]

My road bike has been running a tubeless setup since I built it last year, and when I bought new carbon wheels recently that was one of the main things I looked for when choosing my wheels

[@Euromanone]

TL is best upgrade I have ever done to my bike...so of course TL is here to stay...now I have been riding 3000 km on the same tire without getting a flat. Yeah, yeah I have had punctures, but they sealed them self!

[@georgelane6350]

I'm convinced that, for the majority of riders, they will continue to use clinchers. I set up tubeless on my gravel/cyclocross bike last week, it's great, except that it took to 2 months and a heap of gear to do it. Clinchers are so much easier for maintenance.

[@harrymurphey2634]

... when I upgraded from my 1986 Schwinn World Sport and purchased a new Domane 5.2 I did (2) things ... I ordered it w/ a "triple" up front and I had Tubeless Tires installed. I had several flats while riding and was tired of fixing them in the middle of a ride. I have never "second guessed" those decisions!!! I have had several small punctures that do spray sealant out over the years. (place your thumb over the puncture ... count to 25 ... and it is sealed!!!) The only major issue I had was when I "sliced" a rear tire for over 3/4", it tried to seal, but I was just 5-6 miles into a "Metric" ... so I called "SAG" ... ( I now volunteer for "SAG" at least once a year!!!) But that taught me that w/ Tubeless tires you need to carry a "Valve Stem Tool" because the sealant blocks up the valve at low pressures, so you need to remove the valve stem valve so the tire will be completely "flat" w/ no pressure to break the "bead". And I do carry "patches" and a spare tube (that I have lent to my friends more then once!!! w/ tubed tires) I use Bontrager R2"s currently ... a really nice tire and "sticks" in the rain amazingly well. A couple of years ago I upgraded to Bontrager RXL rims and took another 1-1 1/2 lbs of spinning weight off ... AMAZING difference !!! ( I ride in Pennsylvania w/ the WORST roads in USA, so I'm not going to upgrade to Carbon rims, (1) good pot-hole and I have just spent $2000+.) When I wear these tires out I will upgrade to Bontrager R3's (20g's lighter/tire) and also replace my seat w/ a new 150g model (currently mine is 300g's) and my Domane 5.2 will be approximently 16 1/2 - 16 3/4 lbs ... I would like to have a "Disc" Domane .... BUT ... I WILL NOT GIVE UP MY TRIPLES!!! My legs just do not like Compact Doubles!!! When I need a slight cadence change when my legs cramp ... or going up a major climb ... the compact double doesn't work for my +63yr legs ... Somebody needs to explain this to the manufactures!!!! if they want to sell me a new bike ... and I'm not alone in this feeling !!!

[@Ali_Shafai]

I tried it a few years ago and was a convert, but came back to clinchers because of the mess with tubeless and the fact that it’s more difficult to inflate them.

[@petepansen6614]

Tubeless works really good for me on mtb or gravel/cx bikes, on a road bike it just doesn't seal up after a puncture with anything more than 4 or 5 bar pressure needed - i can only see that work for very lightweight riders that are fine riding those low pressures...sadly i am not

[@DavidKent0407]

You are not using a good enough sealant then for the higher pressures of road tubeless tyres.

[@tecnociclista5342]

I got my absolute dream bike when I was 15 (1989), a Ciocc frame which had the Shimano 600 Tricolor groupset on it. It was so much nicer than the previous 600 groupset and over the years was transferred to other bikes. The chainset is still mounted on my 1999 Principia R700 which I get to ride a few times per yer when visiting my parents. It's all a lot heavier than today#s stuff but those components have run tens of thousands of miles and are still going strong...

[@GrahamNicholson56]

Tried road tubeless but went back to clinchers after the rear tyre blew out spewing sealant everywhere. Needed an inner tube to get home. Possibly the tyre and rim tolerances worked against each other i.e. small tyre bead, large rim as the tyre beads always popped back down into the centre groove when losing pressure. Is more standardization work needed by rim and tyre manufacturers before tubeless is really ready for high pressure road use? I do swear by tubeless at lower pressures for gravel and MTB.

[@peterbee8892]

Tubeless suits me fine but I have had to work through the pain of tyre rim combinations which do not work. I now ride stans grail and avion rims with schwalbe pro one tyre. The tyres roll well and the sealant has fixed every puncture I have had in the last two years. The only time the tyre came off the rim is to put a new tyre on after it was worn out. Note .carry a weldtite tubless puncture repair outfit which can fix the punctures that the sealant does not fix. The only tubes I have used in the last two years are for my luddite roadie friends who don't carry spares.

[@Dr.Schlitz]

I've used road tubeless and I hated it! I spent more time mounting one set of road tubeless tires than I've spent changing flats over the last five years. I'll reconsider when the newer standards become more entrenched.

[@benoitdugas745]

You have to try the mavic tubeless 28mm easy to mount

[@indysbike3014]

Tubeless is heaven for me. 5 months and no puncture. The GP5000tl were very easy to put on the rim. In case something goes wrong I have road assistance for 40€/year and they will get me back home.

[@andrewlipsiner9791]

Another GREAT piece, Jon & GCN !! ALL three offer various pros and cons Depends on what your priorities are Clincher is most convenient solution I always carry a small section on tire carcass , around 3 - 4 inches with me , as a " HACK " fix if tire is cut thru Just place inside damaged tire area Reinstall fresh tube Carcass section will prevent inner tube from pushing thru cut Tubeless , are ok You can run lower PSI , and sealant should help seal tiny cuts ,holes Downsides , are numerous Wheelsets are heavier More expensive A REAL PAIN to mount on rims Tubulars are amazing in their suppleness and smooth ride characteristics Comparable wheelsets are noticeably lighter as well as less expensive, especially carbon versions Sealant in tires do help in minor cuts You can run a wide range of PSI depending on preferences Properly fitted, glued in tires offer better security and safety as well More time consuming and labor intensive to mount , maintain ,ETC..

[@robbchastain3036]

I saw a local guy casually riding a Bianchi mountain bike on the street last year and I was celeste with envy. And to him, it was probably just a green bike. O well, some guys are lucky like that. And clinchers are my forever favorites for commuting--I buy stout Bell tires at Walmart and I get months of mileage out of them and, sometimes, months of no flats, too. And on a couple of occasions, I've even flopped the final mile or so on a flat, like a Baja racer reaching a checkpoint.

[@albr4]

Finally, Jon bringing sanity and balance to the bike vault, a bike on the non drive side should never be allowed in!

[@MrBJPitt]

I don't know, I do love looking at a real nice non drive side. My Fuji SST 1.0 BB86 looks amazing

[@RichLovelock]

@@MrBJPitt Agree dude, I prefer looking at mine (the Protos in this week's Vault) from non-drive side 👍🏼 #cleanlines

[@DolleHengst]

I ordered new wheels and tires for my endurance road bike, tomorrow they will be installed at my lbs. I now run clinchers GP4000SII 28mm, which measure close to 31 mm irl. The new setup will be Bontrager Aeolus Pro5 Disc and Conti 5000 TL in 28mm spec. Can't wait for the first ride come saturday

[@iamthesunnyboy]

I use GP4000s and was interested in going tubeless. The equivalent 4000s tubeless are heavier than clinchers and cost quite a bit more. Add in the sealant and I would have only lost a few grams per wheel. Not worth it at all. Maybe sometime in the future I'll do it for easier puncture repairs, but th3 4000s already have such a good puncture protection that I usually only get a handful a year eventhough I cycle through glass strewn city roads.

[@PeterPutz82]

1. Sealant lasts 3 months tops, so you need to pull the tyre off, clean, replace sealant. I get a flat once every 6 months with clinchers. 2. When you tyre doesn't seal and you need to put in a tube, the sealant goes everywhere including your brake track, when this happens, no brakes. 3. You need to carry a tube and pump... uuuummmm yeah 4. Only benefit is slightly better rolling resistance and lower tyre pressure, offset by the above 5. Overall, tubeless is great for MTB, a total waste of time for road. We simply don't get flats often enough to justify it.

[@DavidKent0407]

I never carry a tube and rarely have a pump with me. My S-Works Tarmac disc has thru axles that require an Allen key too. With the right set up and the correct sealant all of my punctures seal by themselves. That is the main reason I ride tubeless road tyres.

[@MrBJPitt]

All good points, plus MTB run much lower pressure, so the sealant has more chance to work, rather than simply squirting over you and your bike. Regular clinchers for everyday riding is fine. If you have trouble changing tubes, then you really aren't going to enjoy tubeless.

[@shannontrainer5857]

You don't pull the tire off, you just top off with more sealant through the valve.

[@MrBJPitt]

@@shannontrainer5857 if you don't clean the old sealant out, you end up with heavier and heavier tyres.

[@markalfresco]

Hi, am going tubeless on gravel tires, do you agree?

[@colinb8327]

gotta say I absolutely love my tubeless tyres, I've fitted them onto both my race bikes and my training and TT bikes. When you get a normal pin hole puncture they seal up 90% of the time, and no they don't spray gunk on your shirt.

[@colinb8327]

@@mikemerrill175 how much did you put unit? 😂 I’ve never had it spray that bad, and you should have been running a lower oressure

[@colinb8327]

@@mikemerrill175 I’m amazed you had so much mess.

[@colinb8327]

@@mikemerrill175 I’m the kinda guy that wouldn’t have laughed at the time, but would have probably joked about missing it on video and being a “money shot” from the safety of the cafe post ride. On the upside it did it’s job, imagine if your front wheel had fully depressurised on a decent at that speed. Makes ya think about safety side of it maintaining the pressure in the wheels.

[@colinb8327]

@@mikemerrill175 you too, stay safe. 👍🏻

[@rzeckner]

I have been riding tubeless since last fall without punctures or other problem and expect they will dominate in the near future. Although I shouldn't have been, I nevertheless was surprised by the added comfort of the lower air pressure they allow. I do however worry that if I ever get a puncture that the sealant can't handle I won't be able to get the tire off to put a tube in to get me home. I did a practice removal and reinstall and struggled long and mightily to get the tires off even though they both are Made by Mavic.

[@DEAR7340]

This might help: Try your quick release skewer (carefully) as a lever, or prying tool. I have not used tubeless yet, but I am a former tubular user. This technique has helped remove a stubborn tubular for me on more than one occasion, since tubeless and tubular riders might not carry tire levers. Just a thought.

[@happydays8171]

Bought a couple pairs of tubeless because they go very inexpensive at times on eBay. Got one set from a manufacturer, with a 2yr warrantee, for half price. They handle far better than clinchers, sealants work so well, I use them for my daily riders.

[@andrewince8824]

Tubeless has the benefit of allowing you to pop a tube in if they get a severe leak. Plus they can be fit on typical clincher rims as tubed tyres. There's a good versatility to them. If they come to road in force then expect to see inserts become available. Inserts are lightweight foam rings which occupy some volume which makes pumping them up easier and allows you to run on a flat.

[@tinkerthinker7597]

I run tubeless on my mountain bike and love it. I also run tubeless sealant in my commuter and my road bike tubes with great success. Going tubeless on the road bike as some as I get the wheels.

[@Quickdraw811]

I am ordering continental 5000 tubeless in a 28. I’m sold

[@MrHockaluger]

Tubeless only for my mtb as my car is always nearby. Clinchers for sure on my road bike. Had tubeless before on my road bike but was forced to use a tube one day when the tire loss air and unseated from the rim after a hard lean on a downhill turn. That was a messy hassle of a tire change that I could've done easily with a normal tube setup. Yeah, I could've made that phone call of shame but that'd be a bit of a hassle for the wife when you're 50 miles out from home.

[@matthewlewis2072]

14:12 that De Rosa isn't "super nice", it's positively erotic...

[@DolleHengst]

Great looking, yes, but the gap between the frame and headset spacer is a shame on such a high end bike.

[@lilbaby2266]

DolleHengst I know tell me about it. Like any bloke would notice while riding.

[@jack14kd]

Where's the bora ultras

[@DolleHengst]

@@lilbaby2266 an Italian road bike isn't just a bike. It is also an aesthetic thing. A thing of beauty, a joy to look at. You won't find gaps like that on a 2000 euro Canyon or Giant.

[@RichLovelock]

@@jack14kd they don't make Bora Ultra disc (yet)

[@glenlarimer1358]

...and I had just complimented you recently on your efforts with Italian pronunciation. Picking up on Francesco's earlier comment, any time a CH combo is followed by an E or I, the sound is like a hard K. So it's bee-YAHN-kee.

[@swites]

I'm a convert to tubeless on my race bike. Nothing better than hearing that psst... psst... psst sound and then silence as your puncture magically seals itself, and you keep on riding to the finishline. My other roadbike I use for commuting(~100km/week) I use normal hard wearing clinchers due to value for money.

[@Armenian]

Tubeless on my road bike saved my ass when i got a double sidewall puncture on my 700x28C tire while on our local drop ride at dusk with no headlamp on a dangerous road. I heard the puncture, pedaled faster to distribute sealant and in a matter of seconds I continued along non-stop back to my car safe and sound. I also race crits on tubeless and love it. Tubes are dead.

[@andrewbackhouse5828]

Love the show, John, but practice saying "Bianchi " correctly, or they won't let you fly solo again!

[@adamlynch9153]

Andrew Backhouse he speaks English not Italian

[@01FozzyS]

Those upgrades are a tough one. Although I have a similar Raleigh with those Panasonic colors, I also like that Coppi.

[@nithisaenarjhan4962]

Keep up the great works 😉. About the topic, I have tried tubeless and it has been good so far with no puncture. However, the downsides are there (at least for me) like more tools are needed for maintainace, fitting requires more effort, tools and equipments are not easy to find and lastly, universal standard is yet to exist. I also thought of changing to disc as well but due to the very same concern as tubeless, I have yet to change. So, for now, I am with clincher and rim brake until the day that those things are not a considerable issues. 😅

[@ikramidris2386]

THAT DE ROSA! 🔥

[@D_in_DC]

Tubeless all the way! I've run tubeless on my road bike for the last two years. I have a love/hate relationship with them. Mostly love tho. I love them because I don't have to worry about pinch flats; I don't have to carry tubes; they usually seal very quickly; and they ride as good as tubulars (IMHO). I caught a rear tire flat once because I forgot to top off the sealant and was able to ride the bike 7 or 8 miles back standing on the pedals, including a 5% grade. Of course I was taking it very easy for safety, but I could never have done that with clinchers. Once, I caught two punctures (front and rear) 50 miles from my car. Both sealed up and I was able to ride the entire distance back at only a slightly lower speed (my choice). My dislike for my setup is that they are a beast to get on and off. Mine almost seal to the wheel rim like car tires. On the upside, this makes them extremely safe if I happen to get a complete flat at speed.

[@tim6991]

Been riding tubeless MTB for years and this is the third year for me on road tubeless (Mavic UST). I'll never go back!

[@osh111]

what happens when u completly trash ur tyre ? :D

[@CEK0549]

I moved to tubeless a couple of months ago. I have about 1000km on a pair of GP 5000 TL's now and haven't had any punctures. I'm sold.

[@SurpriseMeJT]

I haven't had a puncture on my tubed tires in 2 years. Does that mean tubed tires are more reliable? No, it's anecdotal data.

[@CEK0549]

@@SurpriseMeJT I have a MTB that hasn't had a flat in decades because I use the thorn resistant slime tubes. In this latest case I went from GP 4000 clinchers, to GP 5000 tubeless. Last year I had 4 punctures by this time, this year none. You experience with a tubeless setup may be different, but in my case the tubeless setup is great.

[@rob19632]

I have been tubeless since they came out pretty much, only had one major issue where some glass sliced a huge hole in the tire other than that no punctures at all.

[@FSEVENMAN]

I ride my mountain bike exclusively on the road, I've been running the tubeless tires on that for 5 years now and I'm sold I will never go back so as far as is it a fad? I don't think so, this is definitely a trend we're moving toward I love the idea of losing tubes and as you pointed out I almost never flat anymore....

[@ashleydarby3652]

Been riding tubeless on MTB for years and it’s great. Persisted for a few years on road and gave up. Not as effective because of low volume / high pressure and really messy when you come to fix it. Going back to tubes has been a clean revelation for me. Just keep your tyres good and then you’re less likely to puncture, and I cycle on poorly surfaced North Welsh roads!

[@drouleau]

I love my tubeless tires (started off with Schwable Pro Ones in Jan 2018 and gravitated to Conti GP5000TL's a month ago), but it seems I get about a 30-40% seal rate with punctures. I buy them more for comfort, handling and reduced rolling resistance rather than puncture protection - although if they do happen to seal, that's an added bonus. Haven't had a puncture yet with the Conti's, so I'm not sure how they'll perform compared to the Schwalbes. For what it's worth, I'm using Stans Race Sealant.

[@pimputo]

This kind of stuff was said when tubeless tires appeared first years ago and appeared to be storming the market and promise magical performances.

[@Tuslareb]

I’ve been riding road tubeless for two years now. Not going back to clinchers. I didn’t experience a single flat in the thousands and thousands of kilometres covered. The new Conti 5000 tubeless also has a very low rolling resistance. Ok, they are difficult to fit, especially the new Conti on my Hunt wheels, buy hey, that’s a one time issue. Better that then having flats while riding.

[@danielcalderon142]

The first 1500 km on tubeless were like heaven, after that all were down hill to a flat tire hell, I chaged back to clincher at 3034 km of use.

[@boxlid214]

Been using tubeless for close to 5yrs now, never going back. It's no hassle at all and you don't need a compressor or to deal with "some big mess" if you have the least bit of common sense. It's so much easier than dealing with tubes, and the ride is very plush. Feel better at night knowing you're not tossing a heap of tubes in the trash every year.

[@michaelnovack6507]

I used tubeless for about two years. A nice ride and it was great when the sealant saved me from a flat, but ultimately not worth it. I dreaded when a tire wore out and had to be replaced. Just too hard to set up. Also, if your sealant doesn’t seal, then good luck getting that tight tubeless tire back on the wheel after inserting a tube. Just too much of a headache. I’ll endure the weight of clinchers while enjoying their practicality.

[@stevemcguire2629]

If you guys are not too busy. I would like to see a video of all the bikes that do not make the bike vault. Make a video showing a pic of the bikes and add a few line of text about each bike. Play some cool music. I would let that play while i am working.

[@longrider42]

Tubular tires, also called Sew Ups, been around for awhile now. I've seen em peel off rims in really hot weather. I will stick with clinchers.

[@crnkspinnr5863]

Tubeless is probably the future although I will ride sew-ups until they are unavailable. Well done Jon

[@ssaslavsky]

I've been riding Tubeless for the last 6 years, about 4000 km/year So far, I didn't have to stop for a puncture on my bike in 6 years (I did have to wait for other guys riding clinchers...) The bike flies with 80psi on gravel (28mm tyres), with amazing comfort 25mm 90~95psi is perfect for pavement

[@delkim3691]

I do not understand troubles with mounting tubeless tires. I had to change my old Schwalbe Pro One TL tire last weekend on Shimano Dura TL wheel for new same tire and it took around 3 minutes including pumping it with using usual leg pump.

[@reneortega5248]

I switched to tubeless a few months ago and so much nice

[@braddemarco8040]

For greater acceptance from Roadies the manufacturers need to come up with a standard that allows for easier way to insert a tube if you get a puncture that won’t seal. Nothing worse than being out on a long ride spending 40 minutes or more trying to get the tire off, tube in and tire back in in order to ride or worst case having to call Uber to get home. Until this is solved tubeless benefits are not being maximized. I have gone back to riding clinchers with tubes.

[@jesseladd6864]

Lots of tubeless rims allow for a tube option

[@e92zerorider93]

Tubeless were great for roughly about 2k miles. After that, I was getting puncture every single ride. The problem with them is that any cut on the tires become a weak spot even if it doesn't cut through at first. They also leak air more than inner tube so having to pump them up more often, having to refill sealant as they dry up over time. It become too much hassle for daily commute/training after a while. Went back to inner tube tires. I can see them being great for race day if you have a set reserved for those occasions. Any other have similar experience or are they golden for you?

[@TheDhDario]

Well, i recently switched to GP5000 TL from my old Grandprix clinchers. It's amazing performance wise and it's really convenient to use once you got it fitted. I think it's here to stay.

[@TheLasserey]

2hours into getting the tyre GP5000 TL fitted on my rims, blood from the fingers, sweat from the head and tears streaming down. I really hope it is worth it :)

[@brankododig1585]

GP5000 clinchers perform brilliantly, though. Comparing GP5000s with gransports isn't an apples to apples comparison.

[@gcntech]

Nice, the tech has really improved in recent years.

[@TheDhDario]

@@TheLasserey yeah it's definitely hardcore on the palms and fingers... yet pros don't have to worry about that and since small punctures are not a threat with tubeless I guess even pros have no reason not to switch

[@DavidKent0407]

@@TheLasserey I have given up trying to get my GP5000 TL tyres on my Enve rims. Too hard.

[@jeremyy9128]

Never riding tubeless again, had one blow off on me descending Edgehill outside Stratford-upon-Avon.

[@sbsb4995]

Disc brakes really spoilt the good look of the bicycles. it truly is the biggest gimmick in the history of bicycles. it is really sad.

[@sergarlantyrell7847]

I've been running some very lightweight tubeless tires on 1 of my bikes for 2 years now and have never had any problems with them and so am convinced they are the future. I'm comparing them to a set of gatorskin hardshell's on another bike, that are about 2 months older than the tubeless so practically the same age and have done similar mileage (7,000-8,000 km each) in that time, as well as comparing them the GP4000s I was using before. The gatorskins probably have a slightly harder life, being used more in cities and in poor weather, but both sets have seen some abuse and are due for replacement this summer. In that time the gatorskins have had 2 punctures, 1 was a huge freaking thorn that probably would have felled a marathon+ and the other was a pinch puncture (even though they are 28 mm, expanded up to ~31 mm on my rims @55/65 psi) because I was running too low pressure, trying to compensate for the terrible road surfaces around here and hit an extra rough patch, not really the tire's fault. The tubeless in that time, have definitely had punctures, but I've never noticed while on a ride because the sealant would plug the hole before I lost too much air, the only reason I would know I had a puncture would be some tell-tale white spots on the under-side of my frame when I got back. Coming from GP4000s it's so nice not to have to worry about punctures all the time, and I can run much lower pressures than I used to without getting pinch punctures (65/75 psi on 25 mm tires, that are constricted to ~23 mm by my rubbish narrow rims). Other benefits I've noticed are much faster rolling, though possibly slightly less grippy, I've never slid out, but I've managed to get wheel-spin up-hill on a wet and muddy road, but I've nothing to compare that directly to. On the downside they loose a lot of air over time, so to take over the mainstream market, people are going to have to learn to pump up their tires every few days, rather than every few months. (However, air loss is directly related to pressure, so for 35-40mm commuter tubeless tires at 40 psi, this is less of an issue.) And they can be a right **** the first time you try to seat them. But if you end up taking them on and off a few times (you'll have to every 6 months - a year to change out the sealant) then they do get easier to get seated. I think the problem is where the tire had been folded, it struggles to engage the very tight bead where there is a slight kink in it.

[@danc1829]

What are the lightweight tubeless tyres you're running I'm yet to find any.

[@sergarlantyrell7847]

@@danc1829 sorry, I forgot what they were and had to physically check... they were Giant Gavia SLR's, basically because they were relatively cheap at the time and I wanted to try tubeless, but didn't want to risk lots on a pair of I didn't like them. Other than only expanding to 23mm on 17mm rims rather than 25mm, and so being a bit unforgiving on the roads I ride, I've been pretty impressed with what seemed like a very flimsy set at the beginning. Though if you're looking for a set, a friend who rides tubeless more than I do said the schwalbe pro one's were better (this was 2 years ago now, so not sure if they're still "the best" as I gather mavic's ones are worth a look, just not sure what the compatibility is like with other rim manufacturers) but failing finding anything better I was going to go for a pair of the schwalbes. I also used some mountain bike sealant (can't remember which) because it's tried and tested in moutain bikes for years and tbh because that's what a friend had a big bottle of to hand... Just make sure you use good sealant whatever you use as its more of a case of when not if these lightweight tires will puncture (but if you've got good sealant you probably won't even notice, so it sounds sketchy but really not a big deal).

[@dambuster6387]

Riding to work I may get a puncture, if there is a gash in the clincher tyre I would use some strip cloth from a old pair of jeans and inflate to a low pressure or carry a spare light weight spare tyre. How would you repair a tubular tyre ??? .

[@jffydavy5509]

Tubular tires can be run at virtually any pressure. The sew-up side walls aren't as stiff, rigid, as clinchers since they don't have to resist the blow-out force of inflation pressure. These flexible side walls give two benefits. The flexibility smooths the road, the tire dampens road bump shock making long rides more comfortable and it allows 'under roll' where the center of the tire tread stays in contact with the road through corners rather than riding on the edge of the tread and sidewall.

[@AdamQueen]

I'm a big tubeless fan, and my road disk bike is already using 28mm tubeless for around 6000km. The biggest problem so far is not those common hassles (hard to install, hard to find tyre/wheel combo). It's the slow air leakage after 4 cut on one tire. I didn't even notice 3 of them until I return home. Only the last one caused a punch due to dried sealant. However after adding some sealant, I noticed 4 small leakage. And one week later, still some slow air leakage (around 10~15 psi per day, while normally my tubeless setup shouldn't leak that fast by all means). If the tire should be replaced just after 4 cuts, it's not that cost effective in the long term. (Or the tire is already near the end of life?)

[@sudduthjonathan]

On the tubeless vs. clincher question, give us an idea how much faster tubeless setups are (speed, rolling resistance, etc.). My impression is that there really isn't a difference between the two in this department. Sure there are a lot benefits for tubeless such as pinch flats and punctures, but mostly on rough terrain. I just don't see the point in dealing with the potential hassles and risks for a problem I don't currently have on paved roads (fast clinchers and latex tubes on my carbon road bike).

[@julmeissonnier]

My position has been for a long time that carbon rims with tubulars with latex tubes are the best if you want to performance, weight and road feel. Alloy rims and clinchers if/when you cannot be bothered with the overheating problems of carbon clinchers, braking performance in the wet and overall cost/performance/reliability issues. Despite being so popular because of the cool factor of carbon, carbon clinchers with rims brakes are the worst compromise and do nothing well... Over the last year, I have ridden some tubeless carbon wheels also and the combination is pretty nice, the concept of almost completely doing away with punctures while riding is tempting... I am still not a fan of the additional weight of disk brakes for me it just does not cut it because I am not heavy and, in Israel, I ride 99% in dry conditions). The only tempting aspect is to have an all in one bike (25 or 28mm 700c carbon for fast road rides and fatter 650B for varied terrain and three minutes to swap the wheels, but while the concept is nice having fewer bikes is not an attractive proposition at all!!!

[@RixterNow]

Jon I had a rather terrifying experience last week when the inner tube on my front wheel exploded along the seam and it happened so quickly that the bead on my Conti tire came off the rim. I nearly crashed. Ever heard of that???

[@geeheeber]

Could latex sealant mean more than just a ruined jersey for a pro who is allergic? Around 1% of people have a severe latex allergy that could result in an anaphylactic reaction. Epi-pens do fit in a jersey pocket though.

[@philipnorton4469]

Road tubeless for anyone who "only" rides recreationally (andthat's most of us) will go the same way as road 1x

[@berniebee]

I have tubeless on my Giant Defy and they´re great, really good rolling and round corners, and touchwood no punctures. Comfortable and grippy.

[@JamesWhite1]

Great timing on this video have been wondering what the difference was! Thanks

[@gcntech]

Ideal James!

[@Fluterra]

Do you still need to carry a spare tube with tubeless tires? How do you seal it if you get a rupture?

[@richardnick2216]

Had to vote for the Raleigh because I ride the exact same frame model as my town beater. Mine is kitted out with more period correct Shimano 600 EX components though :D

[@costasmandylor1565]

Just as in disc brakes, tubeless tires are going to take years to be accepted and become the norm in road cycling. We're a stubborn bunch, especially when it comes to technology that improves our cycling.

[@JeremyHansenblue2kid3]

I'm never going back I used a tubeless tire on a 100 mile sportif. At the second rest and feeding zone I noticed my front forks had sealant on them. I never even notice that I got a puncture until I stopped and even then only knew about it because I had to wipe down my bike after a bit sprayed out.

[@Velobetty]

The tool that uses lasers to ensure your cleat is in the correct position is great but I achieve the same results by removing the old cleat and putting the new one on using the tide-mark of dirt on my shoe sole for guidance. 😁

[@1777DK]

I have tubeless tires and rims, but run tubes. Seems like a hassle to setup, and everybody says to carry a tube, just in case. Not really convincing. “Try this new tech, it’s fantastic, but bring your old tech as a backup”. I will try it eventually, but as setting up tubeless requires an air chamber pump, or a compressor, it’ll have to wait a bit.

[@chefnigeltv8580]

Giant is already been in the tubless game homie!!!

[@drooghead]

I used to run tubulars but, although light, they were a hassle to replace. Clinchers are easy to fit, easy to fix and cheap to fix. Tubeless looks like more hassle and since weight is not an issue for me I will stick to clinchers.

[@erick_fernandez_78910]

Haha! Ringa!tha!Bell! Do I have to go all the way over there to ring the bell with you?! I’ll bring extras! That DeRosa is beautiful!

[@KevinAdams06]

How does having sealant rolling around in your tire impact performance? Does it add significant weight?