Gearbox & Primary drive - Ep.7 Stu takes a closer look

[@simonrawle7885]

The knowledge that stew has on this bike is awesome. Thanks for sharing some of it

[@daveco1270]

This was very educational. Thanks Andy and Stu!

[@lynnhoskins5286]

thanks for having stew on he's the man great knowledge please thank him for sharing great video one of the best thanks again

[@shanedavies9564]

Wot a top bloke Andy great vid ,thanks , cheers shaneo, Nelson, 🍺👍

[@droidster888]

Great series, enjoying watching you go through it all as I have done the exact same job on my T140! Picked it up last year, second gear had one tooth missing. Gearbox and primary and everything that lives in it, out! Pretty much replaced everything in the primary and put a belt drive in and a nice upgraded clutch pressure plate. They're old bikes and if haven't been loved or rebuilt well, what starts as one 'fix' can end up as a ton more, no point messing about once you have it in pieces! Also did a complete top end rebuild. Runs like a dream now with a ton of compression. Good luck on this and all the best from another Andy (Brit living in Austria!) Edit: Whilst watching your video, when you put the front sprocket back on... there was a Triumph bulletin to help prevent a common problem of oil leaking from the gearbox down the mainshaft splines and out by the sprocket. Search 'triumph service bulletins countershaft sealing' - I am doing this job now over winter as I have the issue and want it fixed for spring!

[@bananabrooks3836]

Good interaction between these two, video length was necessary, thanks Stuart.

[@lesjones7617]

amassing! thanks.

[@craiganderson7407]

Hi Andy , your clutch hub spider appears seized to your hub inner plate( the three legged bit) which will prevent the shock absorber working, that piece you say is a complicated piece of machining is infact two pieces. This not working could cause the bike to stall when knocking the bike into gear.

[@AndyMechanic]

Interesting & yes, I think you are correct. Its definitely not free moving & without the damper working it will certainly transfer a lot more shock to the gear teeth during engagement especially if the clutch plates are binding as they were on this bike. Will be ordering a complete clutch assembly including the new damper too. Cheers Andy

[@daveco1270]

What year is that bike? I was told that these later oil in frame models share engine and primary oil. (Which is why I use the same oil in each on my 78 T140.) You can see the three small holes in the case just above the primary chain adjuster and below the stud that holds on the alternator...they're to the right of the sprockets if you pause at 1:18:29 From what I understand, those 3 holes let engine oil into the primary. I'm not sure how it keeps the level it needs.

[@DirkGentley42]

My '79 Bonnie is the same. You add oil to the primary drive after a rebuild - just to make sure there's something in there. After that It finds the correct level in the primary chaincase through use.

[@Angelum_Band]

78½ 😂

[@bananabrooks3836]

Check out SRM Pressure plate conversion.

[@overbuiltautomotive1299]

Good show man just hit it with a 💩hammer⚒

[@andrzejkuczynski7134]

Great series. When will be the next episode? Is Bonneville fixed by now?

[@daveco1270]

What's the current state of this engine? Any plans to go shoot another video with Stu putting the gear box back together?

[@AndyMechanic]

The engine is still in Invercargill, parts list has been made up & Sent to the owner (long time ago). To date no parts supplied or instructions on what is to be done next - project has stalled unfortunately. Hopefully we will get the chance to do the rebuild, would be a shame for bike to be parted out which is really the only other option. Cheers Andy

[@malcolmcasson3571]

there is no oil seal on the crank, chaincase oil is same as engine.

[@AndyMechanic]

No, not on this model, primary drive chain runs in a much heavier weight oil than the engine which is causing the sticktion on the clutch plates. Oil seal is correct from the research I have managed to unearth. Though the parts diagram I have doesn't show an oil seal so maybe older model does, as you say, share the same oil?? Cheers Andy

[@malcolmcasson3571]

@@AndyMechanic prior to 1970 they had the oil seal as the engine had a timed breather via a hollow inlet cam, from 1970 onwards they removed the seal and put 3 small holes just the thr right of the engine sprocket near the bottom, this kept the level of chaincase oil via the crankcase, if you want to use any other oil in the chaicase you need to put a seal in and block the holes this will stop any chain case oil going in to the engine, i know people who have done it and used atf in the clutch and put a fitting in the timing cover for a breather,

[@craiganderson7407]

New clutch including hub, plates, springs, everything £400