Geology and Human History Collide at Captain Jack's Stronghold in Lava Beds NM, California

[@shawnwillsey]

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[@15ramendra]

Thanks for the nice Geology and history anecdote

[@tonytenbreock8546]

Did my historiography paper on the Modoc Indian wars. Actually worked from 100 yr old "Alta Californian" newspapers at the State Library. Captain Jack actually was somewhat of a folk hero in the Bay Area. The winter lake fog helped the Modocs' evasionary tactics. There actually was a ballad:"I'm Captain Jack otf the Lava Beds....," published to the tune of "I'm Captain Jack of the horse marines..."

[@jadesea562]

👏

[@Sköldpadda-77]

Thank you for doing this one. I read The Modocs and Their War by Keith Murray maybe 20 years ago and found Captain Jack such an inspiration But I’d never actually seen the landscape that protected him and his people. Beautiful.

[@daphnewilson7966]

I really got into this writing a novel. (Hope to finish it someday.) Just picking one thing that stuck in my craw is the utter arrogant denial of the whites of the individual tribal identities and their traditional conflicts. "Jack" might never have made his last stand if the whites hadn't tossed the Modocs onto the Klamath Res. under the "they all look alike to us" doctrine. There were in recent years re-enactments of the California "Trail of Tears" from Chico to the multi-cultural (whites didn't care) concentration camp at Round Valley.

[@randyalanko4903]

Dr. Murray was a fantastic teacher, had an encyclopedic knowledge of the PNW 'Indian Wars' with dozens of illuminating anecdotes. Have/read his book and finally got to the Lava Beds a couple years ago.

[@meriamg1]

Thank you! I spent many summers as a kid in the early 70’s visiting here. Happy memories, and you’ve added to this.

[@shawnwillsey]

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the donation.

[@InSurrealtime]

Love that area, the lava tubes are great. Me and a friend made it through subway cave with no lights using echolocation by clicking.

[@davidsquall351]

lol

[@InSurrealtime]

@@davidsquall351 The funny part was when a family coming through in the other direction came around the corner with their flashlights and saw us in the darkness. The mom screamed, but then we told them what we were doing and they laughed.

[@davidsquall351]

@@InSurrealtime I bet they were wondering what the clicking was 🤣

[@jforce91]

at around 4:07 you have a small mammal run across the path. Is it a gopher? ground squirrel? anyone in chat know? I know its not a geology question but was cool seeing a bit of the native wildlife.

[@davidk7324]

California ground squirrel is my bet. Gophers don't generally move above ground during daylight and only occasionally at night. They are fossorial.

[@daphnewilson7966]

My instant, off-the-cuff thought was chipmunk.

[@daphnewilson7966]

It just came to me that that critter may have flicked it's tail up over its back as it crossed. Very chipmunky. Ground squirrels tend to keep their tails out behind them.

[@thaddeusjones7868]

SQUIRREL!! 🐿

[@davidk7324]

Indeed, I'm easily distracted. Confirmed by slowing down the playback speed. @@thaddeusjones7868

[@agmartin2127]

What a unique area to visit... there are also several large / long lava tube caves there too. Just north of Lava Beds is a somber reminder of another injustice, the Japanese Interment Camps of WWII. And a great area to bike tour (unsupported, of course). Thank you Shawn for another interesting view on geology.

[@daphnewilson7966]

One of the most astounding historic examples of "asymmetric warfare." 50-60 Modoc warriors vs. 1000 U.S. troops. Apparently there was a water source from ice in some of the lava caves. Thank you for the respect shown the native name of the war chief: Kintpuash. A town not far is named "Canby" after the only general ever killed in the Indian wars: Custer had been a battlefield temporary ("brevet") "general" in the Civil War, but was no longer, when he died. Terry C. Johnston has a historically well-based novel: "The Devil's Backbone," which title itself is a real nickname for this landscape. You did such a great job of the basic outline of the history! Kudos!

[@jeanettewaverly2590]

Captain Jack shot and killed General Canby during a parlay under a flag of truce between the US Army and the rebel Modocs. That sealed his fate, to be executed when he was eventually captured.

[@garypasko5314]

Really one of the more fascinating and interesting wars the US ever waged on an indian nation. While I was working there in the summer of 1990, our head of Resource Management had organized the Return to the Stronghold. It was the first time in over a hundred years that the Modocs were officially allowed back to their native lands. Ironically, it was their traditional enemies, the Klamath, that helped facilitate the event. Also, if you're ever at Lava Beds, you might want to go to the visitor center and ask about a tour of Fern Cave. It's the only place for 150 miles around that ferns grow naturally. It was also a place where the Modocs would gather and have visions and there's interesting art on the walls of the cave, if you get my drift.

[@HDPersonal777]

Old world order high tech giants and pigmies not Indians. The recent 1800’s el kites are liars.

[@cwj9202]

"...first time in over a hundred years that the Modocs were officially allowed back to their native lands." They could have visited the land of their forefathers any time they wished.

[@Rachel.4644]

Thank you, Shawn. I follow up on these historical events as I hear about them. Seeing where is helpful and more interesting.

[@rollsandfloats]

What an interesting story! You've a good talent for explaining these things Shawn. Keeps me captivated! Thanks again for the great content.

[@hopegreer3357]

This was very interesting!! I'd love to see more areas that were used as defensive means. The landscape was very beautiful. Thank you for this educational video.

[@jamespriddy8275]

I visited the lava beds while stationed in Klamath Falls for a job. I was alone. No birds, insects, nothing but a breeze. I had my guitar and sat by a cave and played, sang, and contemplated all that happened there. It felt spiritual.

[@jimjr4432]

Great one! Expanding the interests possibilities of viewers. Thanks.

[@TheDevice9]

You kind of have a similar situation at the Camas Meadows Battlefield in Fremont Co. ID, where a small number of Nez Perce held back the army long enough for the main body of the tribe to escape into Yellowstone. The lava beds there produce similar but not as pronounced terrain as seen here, older perhaps. The defensive rifle pits built by stacking basalt rocks in rings to hide behind can still be seen there today. I haven't been there in 40 years and don't know anything specific about the geology there other than it's buckled lava beds ultimately related to the Yellowstone Hot Spot like everything else in the Snake River Plain. ( 44°24'50.76"N, 111°47'45.53"W)

[@daphnewilson7966]

The flight and fight of the Nez Perce I guess is the last heroic epic of the long genocide of the real Americans. They were just trying to make it to Canada, if I remember right. Terrible.

[@charonsiouxsie949]

Always a pleasure watching your content. Can't wait to see your Black Hills experience.

[@shawnwillsey]

More Black Hills stuff coming soon.

[@daviddroescher]

Thank you for confirming my assumptions about the place. I used to drive past there commuting from Klamath Falls, or to reno,NV , back when I worked for Union Pacific. I like how much you move around on the map don't let the moss grow. Being a geology hound, i'd love to hear the story of the hogbacks around Klamath Lake. And and the flow that eventually dammed the river. Creating the lake. At the bottom of Eagle ridge, there's a 60 foot Deep River Canyon. The canyon causes a counter current of cold water that makes the blue-green alge harvest the best.

[@daviddroescher]

Are theas systems of cracks associated with crater Baker, or Mckinley ?

[@marksinger3067]

Another good video..great Historical Geography/Geology ..

[@hestheMaster]

Fantastic stuff with both geology and history professor . I'm suprised there has never been a movie about the Modoc War or Chief Kintpuash aka Captain Jack. Really learned a lot here and using more sources to find out about Lake Modoc and it's creation during the Pleistocene . This story is about the changes that white men wanted to settle the lands by force over the smaller lakes remaining and the Native Modoc's were against but lost. Fertile soils that with irrigation yielded profitable farmlands in the former Lake Modoc areas.

[@wjhrazorsedge76]

1954 movie, "Drum Beat". Charles Bronson played Cpt. Jack aka Chief Kintpuash.

[@hestheMaster]

@@wjhrazorsedge76 Thanks. Have to check it out.

[@SkepticalRaptor]

A long time ago, right after getting my PhD, I considered joining the Army and working as an officer at the Army’s infectious disease center. While being recruited, I spoke to a colonel who had a PhD in geology who did military geology. He taught at West Point for a year or so. Anyway, I love that national monument. There is so much history along with the awesome geological features.

[@plakor6133]

A favorite place. The 150 year remembrance of the Modoc War was observed this year with many really well done educational events sponsored by the Park Service, Modoc Nation, Klamath Museum, and several others. Some of the presentations are on KZbin.

[@bravendyer9529]

Always a pleasure, thank you 🙏

[@bravendyer9529]

Thanks!

[@Anne5440_]

Thanks for sharing this important geology location. As others have commented, I have studied the Modoc War. It is good to see the landscape to understand the events better. There are a number of locations where the geography and geology inform the history. I have spent time driving around the Fort Phil Kearney locations in Wyoming. Seeing the places made the history more understandable. Reading the description or the Fetterman Massacre becomes completely different once you see the battlefield from both sides. There are numerous other locations that come to mind also.

[@nickraschke4737]

Fascinating. Thank you, and gday from Australia.

[@Don.Challenger]

Who is the little guy crossing paths with you at 04:07? I'll call him Mr. Tumulus

[@rodchallis8031]

Geology and Military History: Wellington never lost a battle, whether it was in India, Portugal, Spain or obviously at the last at Waterloo. Reading about his career, it struck me that aside from sieges, he always made sure to fight his battles on the ground of his own choosing. He was keenly aware of the advantages and disadvantages the land held.

[@daphnewilson7966]

You might be interested in Terry C. Johnston's novelized history of the "Battle of the Rosebud" (1867, I think.) Which was Crook's only failure, fars I know. Reflecting on what I remember, the lay of the land might have been crucial. Sorry, can't think of the title.

[@hunt4redoctober628]

A fascinating story being a Brit. Really interesting. What blows my mind is that my house was built (of stone) in 1876. Just 3 years after this battle.

[@zenobialapeyre686]

Like running into an old friend unexpectedly - I've visited this area many times, love the open wildness, but I was always birding, not really paying attention to the landscape (sorry), but this video reminds me how much I love that neighborhood and I am totally inspired to make a run down there before winter sets in. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! Watching from Portland, Oregon

[@shawnwillsey]

Thanks for sharing!

[@TheHillbillyEngineer]

did you see the chupacabra at 4:06 :)

[@stevebrandon5921]

Sasquatch

[@Anne5440_]

​@stevebrandon5921 too small to be sasquatch.

[@marsharose2301]

My dad was in theCoast Guard in WWII and his ship was named Modoc. What a difference 75 years make….

[@virgo714]

Awesome, I love California’s geology

[@dancooper8551]

Fascinating history and geology!

[@garrettmillsap]

Have you ever traveled into oregon and checked out Fort rock? Im also curious about crack in the ground, which is nearby fort rock.

[@shawnwillsey]

Both were on my list but ran out of time on this trip. Next time...

[@julieshelby8977]

I live fairly close to the lava beds. I read a book not long ago about Captain Jack. It was heartbreaking. My son in laws family owned property the Indians used as a road from lost river to Yreka in California.

[@jackprier7727]

Thanks for this history and geology. It is quite saddening to see so many vast areas of the West converted to downy brome (cheatgrass) and lose their previous vegetative productivity-

[@plakor6133]

There's been a lot of wildfire in the last 5-10 years. About the entire monument has burned. Unfortunately the invasives are now a permanent part of the landscape, especially after fire. However, the monument lands are in pretty good shape; perennial native grasses, shrubs, forbs are in abundance because of the terrain, and because there hasn't been any domestic livestock around for a long time. I think the current prevalence of the cheatgrass and tansy mustard and so on will diminish in a few years. Fire from lightning and humans was common in pre-suppression times, so the monument might look closer right now to what it looked like 150 years ago. Examining the 1870's photos to try and figure out the vegetation from then is kind of interesting.

[@mikewatson4644]

@@plakor6133 I hope that you are correct in cheatgrass and tansy mustard diminishing. What is your reasoning for this thought?

[@jackbelk8527]

Cheatgrass in late summer is about 90 octane and readily burns with wind and lightning strikes. I burnt land grows back more cheat grass....

[@plakor6133]

@@mikewatson4644 well I may be engaging in wishful thinking. I think the annual weeds won't really diminish, but because the native perennials are there in decent numbers, and are fire adapted, they might become more obvious as time goes on. Unless there are repeated frequent reburns that actually kill off the perennials. And now there are newer nasties getting well established in NE California, including Ventenata grass and the knapweeds.

[@jackprier7727]

@@plakor6133 oh I hope so, but the West itself seems only to get more invasives like cheatgrass. I've sprayed many acres of hoary cress and to see them shift to tumble-mustard and cheatgrass was actually a small victory-- many CA biologists tell me this story: "Spanish cattle started 400 yrs ago removing the natives, and we really have little idea what grasses and forbs were originally here in CA"-

[@dennisfisher1430]

Varmint at 4:06

[@thurmanwalker3298]

What keeps you from getting snake bit? Videos are very interesting.

[@shawnwillsey]

Was a pretty cool day. I'm outside a lot and rarely run into snakes, let alone rattlers. I think the risk is a bit overhyped. They are reclusive creatures.

[@MissPhiladelphia777VALDE-uv5cn]

BLESS YOU SIR

[@VictorWaid]

May I suggest a book Bloody Arrow about the Modoc Indian War a comprehensive explanation of the area and Modoc Indian tribe occupation of the whole lava bed area. The book was in the Modoc county library when I read it about 50 years ago. Victor By the way I grew up in the whole county area. V😇

[@Helekopa_Pailaka]

Can you contrast Lava Beds with Craters of the Moon? They seem similar in geology.

[@shawnwillsey]

Yes, very similar. Both sit in extensional areas of Basin and Range and are dominated by basaltic volcanism.

[@hughdanaher2758]

The only US general killed in the Indian wars was killed in the Modoc War was Edward Canby

[@66kbm]

@8.07, what is the massive, rounded hill/mountain on the horizon please. Sticks out like a sore thumb as we say in the UK.

[@shawnwillsey]

That is Mount Dome. I think it is a rhyolitic or silica rich lava dome.

[@martinmiller7623]

Thank you❤

[@jameswingert9596]

Willsey..!! Where'd the craters video go?! One, I got a like from you on a comment 😁and two, that was a very cool video. Very interesting and th crater came through on video and you did a good job explaining it. with and showing the pdf's in the quartz crystals. Anyway, it's a good vid. a repeater. fyi I'm super interested in clay minerals from asteroid Bennu. Keep up the good work' 🙌🏾☮️

[@shawnwillsey]

The video has been deleted because the site is on private land which I was unaware of at the time I recorded it.

[@jameswingert9596]

@@shawnwillsey that just caused a big sinking feeling in my chest. I am so sorry about that. I hope there's a work around because that, they're all good dgmw, but that was interesting. don't seem right to own space craters and not allow them to be talked about. the world deserves to know about pdf's too! Free the Space Craters (from that nameless state)!!✊

[@siddupuy5666]

Wonderful!

[@kevindorland738]

I've read some of Captain Jack. Wonder where?

[@kevindorland738]

" Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee."

[@davidk7324]

Terrain/topography -- critical considerations for defensive, offensive, and logistical military purposes.

[@insAneTunA]

That structure at 5:46 looks like an old man made barricade.

[@3xHermes]

Interesting!

[@kimberlyboldt5213]

If those are lava fields, where is the volcano? And doesn't lava that cools under water form pillow lava?

[@shawnwillsey]

Vent is Mammoth Crater (located at 41.69226, -121.54779), or about 10 miles southwest. Apparently, the lava slowed and chilled right at lake margin.

[@johnnash5118]

In 1878, Congress passed the Posse Comitatus Act prohibiting the use of the federal military against American citizens; since Native Americans were/are by definition American and thus citizens, the PCA applied/s to them as well. Too bad it was passed generations too late for many Americans.

[@cwj9202]

American Indians were not granted citizenship until the Snyder Act of 1924 was passed. The PCA did not apply to them before that act was passed.

[@billroberts9182]

Thx

[@davec9244]

Hero, loser patriot terrorist, ALL open to interruption. The perceived winner gets to wright the history books. Thank you for the Geology side it makes more sense than mankind. ALL stay safe

[@unionse7en]

so sad how we took this land. the story of Ishi is really sad too. Last of his tribe because of the invaders and he probably he knew it to. smh

[@williamashbless7904]

Jack and his warriors murdered a delegation that was under a truce for negotiations for peace.

[@lauram9478]

❤

[@texbaumgartner5735]

READ THUNDER OVER THE OCHOCO ABOUT HISTORY OF THAT AREA

[@Riverguide33]

👍

[@theadventuresofwizardtom2436]

Why are your coordinates so far off?

[@shawnwillsey]

Typo on latitude. Should be 41.82253. I fixed it on the video description.

[@alanl.simmons9726]

Spied another animal running through the video. That makes 2! People are hanged. pictures are hung.

[@boossersgarage3239]

[@phillipstephens3079]

Rattlesnake country…listen for The Buzz 🐍🐍

[@stevebrandon5921]

Coordinates are off by ~1 degree, professor.

[@shawnwillsey]

Rats. Typo. I corrected them on video description.