Get AMAZING Darkroom Prints With This EASY Trick!

→ → → Get perfect exposure and contrast in you prints fast with The Perfect Test Strip Printer! → → → distphoto.be/p...
Find perfect exposure and contrast quickly to save time money and paper while creating stunning darkroom prints with this simple test strip!
Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned photographer, this easy technique will elevate your printing game and help you create beautiful, high-quality images that pop. Join us as we cover essential tips on exposure and contrast, to bring your prints to life.
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Go to black and white film photography setup (medium Format) //
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Hasselblad 500 CM - ebay.us/5x9tfR
120mm CF f-4 Makro - ebay.us/cHyIOs
80mm CF 2.8 - ebay.us/YlSU58
50mm CFE f-4 - ebay.us/LpUw1A
Go to black and white film - adorama.rfvk.net/9bgvQ
Favorite Gear Back Pack - amzn.to/3c8iFET
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Go to film photography setup (35mm) //
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Brevite Jumper Back Pack - amzn.to/3Je22JU
Canon F1 - ebay.us/jn1xcM
Canon FD 35mm F2 - ebay.us/fgJNVE
Canon FD 50mm 1.2L - ebay.us/8D8R6E
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Go to digital camera setup //
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Canon R5 - amzn.to/35FUX0r
Canon 35mm f1.4 L ii - amzn.to/3ioIBPl
Canon 50mm f1.2 RF - amzn.to/2N47Hax
Canon 85mm f1.2 - amzn.to/38PaH34
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Thank you so much for watching!
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#distphotofilm #darkroom

[@Distphoto]

Been getting a lot of questions in regards to figuring out a high light factor for your system so I will pin this at the top and any questions/discussions can take place here so everyone can benefit. Set up your enlarger with either a zone 8 density blank test neg or simply stop down the lens to mimick this. project for around an 11x14. Keep this consistent as well as paper developer time temp, etc... What I do is make test strips with 5 - 16 second strips (the first being 5 - 1 sec exposure) You want your times for this to land you a zone 8 (.09 density or highlight detail tone) in the middle of this. so you have a few patches of white and some grey patches. You will do this test with all your filters ( I recommend exposing 4 -5 and batch processing- this will allow you to get this all done in an hour or so) You also want to cover a long edge of the strip (ruler, easel) You can use 1-2 inch strips of paper from an 8x10. so 10 inches long. Develop wash and dry the test strips. evaluate and chart out the exposure ( you may have to open the lens or stop down the lens - then 9 sec would become 4.5 or 18 sec respectively. So my tests show that to get this density for my 2 filter is 10 second. and for my 3.5 filter is 17.5 seconds. I have this in a chart with the rest of the filters. For the print in the video I was going from a filter 2 to a filter 3.5 so I looked at my chart and divided my 3.5 exp by my 2 exposure. that gives me my factor for the new exposure. 17.5/10 = 1.75 Now take your exposure and multiply it by your factor. that will give you your new time for the new filter and keep the highlight density the same. Now say you

[@carlomaccheroni]

Excellent explanation, thank you!

[@Distphoto]

@@carlomaccheroni your welcome 👍

[@rlfsoso]

first of all, your videos on analog printing are really helpful! And thanks for your explanation. For what it's worth, I'd really enjoy (make that need ;-) ) a video tutorial on this… ordered your test strip printer, as it is much easier than assembling the one from "Way Beyond Monochrome", looking forward to receive it when the backorder reaches my number. Keep up the good work, I learn a lot! Cheers Rolf

[@chickenitsa]

Former Tech Rep for Durst enlargers, here. Bravo. You know your sh*t and yo know how to clearly explain it.

[@FreedomToRoam86]

Black and white is just so amazing from film to paper when done right like you are!

[@Distphoto]

Agree 👍

[@anotherguycalledsmith]

How can somebody of your skills only have so few subscribers… Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! You got another subscriber ;-)

[@Distphoto]

Awesome! Darkroom printing is not as mainstreamm as talking about new color film stocks 🤷🏻‍♂️. It's all good... Gratefull for you and every subscriber I have 👍🏻

[@stratocactus]

Yeah most film photographers don't print in a darkroom. And those who print, most don't really care about the nerdy technical aspects. They just want to make prints for the fun of it and if it's not perfect they don't care. But we nerds can still enjoy this channel :)

[@patriciofreire3375]

Agreed

[@michael195b]

Great advice, always struggled to figure out test strips with filters and it usually ended up as a guess

[@Distphoto]

helps to have a method and system in place so you can create some standards... helps with learning your equiptment & materials!

[@JanVotava75]

wow!

[@Distphoto]

@@JanVotava75 👍

[@bastiencarel421]

Curious ; why not use spilt grade printing instead to control highlights and shadows separately?

[@Distphoto]

I do, it's just not always necessary and can be a waste of time. I usually judge the negative (hopefully a contact proof ) and the scan and determine a game plan. Split grade printing is often not necessary and takes more time and steps. It's EXTREMELY effective when needed. There are many tools and approaches and I would not aproach every negative the same... For instance this image gains nothing from split grade printing other than more time and most likely more paper. Also I would burn the upper right edge with a low contrast filter to give a little density to the sky ( so technically split grade printing ) but can nail that without any testing. And another big reason is that this way gives you a lot more feedback about your negatives and what is going on with your exposure & development. In this image I can see I had enough exposure but could have developed a little longer. Now this being roll film prob a safer bet to have kept development here but I can tell this info from the test print with the filter used. This will help give some consistency. When things go off track you can course correct. If you ALWAYS split grade print it can be harder to tell these things as you are using the two extremes ( generally) and is hared to figure out your exposure & development errors. Not that you can't, it's just not as straight forward. At the end of the day if you are getting prints you love, doesn't matter how you get there to me. I simply want consistency so I can get better with what I am presented in the field and in the darkroom 👍🏻

[@bastiencarel421]

@@Distphoto interesting . Could you elaborate on what negative woudl benefit split grade vs. this approach ?

[@IncendiaHL]

​@@bastiencarel421split grade printing is overestimated. Usually you are simply recreating a grade that's in your box already. Split grade only comes in handy for those rare times when you need an exact grade that isn't in your box. For more info, see the video "Thoughts on Split Grade Printing" by the channel "Chris Wray, The Fine Print" :)

[@Distphoto]

@@bastiencarel421 Yes, basically and image that needs obvious areas of different contrast that would be difficult to achieve otherwise. It enables one to print with a 5 filter in one section and a 0 filter in another

[@codysergeant1486]

Ah yes, the magic of local teststrips!

[@Distphoto]

@@codysergeant1486 👍

[@StuartWoodall]

Love this. Never seen one of those strip printers. Makes way more sense. Only thing I don't totally get is why shifting to a 3.5 filter didn't muddy your the grade 2 highlight you'd preferred.

[@StuartWoodall]

Watched again. I get it. It's genius. Can you do a walk through video on the factor thing now?! 😂

[@Distphoto]

Gl;ad it clicked! I'll see what I can do!

[@erichassel-r1x]

I would love to see a video about how to find my factor. Or if you have a good source where to find a deeper explanation about this. Keep up the good work. Love your videos.

[@Distphoto]

Thank you! I will see what I can do!

[@ChristophFrank-on2po]

amazing video: excellent method, excellent picture

[@Distphoto]

@@ChristophFrank-on2po Thank you 🙏

[@rjisinspired]

This looks like a very neat product and would be very valuable in my case. There is something that does have me a little puzzled,, seeing that the chart in the video goes by 1/3 stop increments. My enlarging lens works only in 1/2 stop increments. My lens clicks right into half steps, there is no in-between. Because of this I'm trying to figure out how the filter grade steps would work out then. The time in seconds part would be easy to figure out but then I would be in between filter grade steps. My guess is that I would have to round off the values for the filter grades since I don't have any .25 Ilford filters unless I went into my color printing filter kit but then those type of filters might be different than the Ilford filters for the black and white paper. Would you think that I am close with my guess for the rounding or for using the lowest value of .25 from the color printing filter set? Looking forward to seeing more of your videos.

[@Distphoto]

You are correct in using time for f-stop printing. SO you would set your lens to an optimum setting and use time to control exposure. The part about the filters has me a little confused. The 1/2 steps in filters does not equal 1/2 stop of light. The filters can require exposure compensation but this depends on your setup and materials.

[@rjisinspired]

​@@Distphoto Thanks for responding. I may have been thinking too much into the math with this. I hope I can word this right. My previous line of thinking was for example in the chart showing that for each third of a stop being equal to half of a filter grade. Example exposures 5 and 6 shows +1/3 and +2/3, respectively, and to the right of those values "grades 3 and 3.5". Seeing that I have only 1/2 stop increments this led me to thinking that I would need to go in between 3 and 3.5 for the filter grade With the line of thinking that I was heading at; that chart would have been reduced down from 7 example exposures down to 5 with time values for 1/2 stop increments with grades then being 1, 1.75, 2.5, 3.25 and 4. Meaning that using half stops instead of thirds would shift the filter grading steps to .75 instead of .5 units for filter grade.

[@glennhunt3725]

Great video. I have been getting back to darkroom photography over the last 9 months- after a long hiatus. Lots of things have changed since those days using variable contrast papers. I have ordered one test strip printer as the paper one I made is useless. I also wanted to support your channel as I have watched many of your excellent videos. One quick request: have you used 510 Pyro b\w film developer? I have ordered some as some photographers I know have raved about the results (contrast, fidelity and grain), longevity (6 years) and cost per roll of film (10ml at 1:100). Cheers, from Sydney Australia.

[@Distphoto]

@@glennhunt3725 Thank you! Great to hear you are getting back into the darkroom! Very much appreciate the support! I have used pyro developers though not 510 Pyro. I would like to try it but am very happy with what I am using so have not had a huge reason to switch. I always liked Pyrocat and want to try Moersch’s staining developer as well. To little time 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@liveinaweorg]

I missed where the factor number came from? Can you explain please? BTW: glad I found your video's, really helpful and well made.

[@Distphoto]

I just made a pinned comment at the top for discussion... as this has come up a lot. 👍🏻

[@stephensmith8325]

As others as well, I am wondering how you arrive at the factor to determine your final exposure!

[@Distphoto]

I just made a pinned comment at the top for discussion... as this has come up a lot. 👍🏻

[@AhmadPhotographer24]

I really enjoy watching your videos.

[@Distphoto]

I appreciate that!

[@carlomaccheroni]

Was your factor the number of seconds where you get zone 8 on filter 3.5?

[@Distphoto]

I just made a pinned comment at the top for discussion... as this has come up a lot. 👍🏻

[@riccardocoelatirama]

Thanks 🌼

[@Distphoto]

You're welcome 😊

[@IncendiaHL]

Ordered the perfect test strip printer. Can't wait to try it out!! But I really need more info on that zone 8 calibration, and finding the factor to keep the highlights. How does that work?

[@Distphoto]

@@IncendiaHL Thank you! Will be working on some things and that will most likely be an add on training to anyone who has the test strip printer… the exact procedure I use. But in a nutshell you stop down the enlarger to give you a zone 8 or .09 reflective density (you can basically pick a light highlight shade and try to match it) somewhere in the 8-12 sec range. You do 1 sec exposures from 5 sec till light grey you want white for a few patches. You test the exposure it takes with each filter to get the Zone 8 density. You can get the test done in an hour or so and then you know how much compensation is needed when changing contrast filters.

[@IncendiaHL]

@@Distphoto awesome thanks that makes sense. I guess one could also simply do a long strip for each grade, with the full latitude of the paper in something like half or third stops. That would make for a reference chart that works even for uncalibrated color heads (like the ones I'm using). Then the one-strip finished picture like the one you just described would be possible just by looking at the references. You got my head spinning. Thanks :)

[@Distphoto]

@@IncendiaHL Yes then just decide the new contrast exposure on your test strips by the original and you get your factor 👍. And… color heads are the best for calibration IMO because you can dial everything in very nicely… sorta miss mine but do love the vc head I have

[@OriginalTLab3000]

I swore I sell all my analog cameras and buy a nice digital one and never look back. I've lent my enlarger to a photo club and they completely broke the thing anyway. Please, please don't make me buy another enlarger with your cool videos! Please!

[@Distphoto]

@@OriginalTLab3000 I won’t make you … but I think you should 😀

[@esalo49]

I was just looking into how to build the test strip printer from the Way Beyond Monochrome book, and looked on KZbin and found your video. Order it.. I have been watching your channel for a while now and it is really excellent. Thanks for your contributions to the analogue community. I also purchased your Darkroom Print log templates. I got a lotta learning to do now to figure out how to get all this working. LOL

[@Distphoto]

Awesome, Do let me know if you need any help!

[@oocaj]

Your teststrip device is also described in the book Way Beyond Monochrome from of page 472, although yours looks very professional.🙂 I use this one almost every time when making teststrips.

[@Distphoto]

It is the best way!

[@el_pableras]

Nice video as always and interesting device. Very sensible! I can’t gauge the thickness of the base board, but I guess it adds up a couple of millimeters between your easel and your paper. Does it mess around with your focus? Or your usual f-stop setting takes care of it well enough? Thanks!

[@Distphoto]

I do not remember the actual depth but made it as thin as possible (i believe a mm or so ) while still being strong. Way thinner than the matboard version I used for years. those came out slightly soft but would still serve the purpose (not framing the test prints!) On the new one I made the test prints come out sharp, as you can see in the video and I print at f 7.1 usually so not a ton focus depth. I still would not print the final image this way but they work amazingly well!

[@lucbeliveau3977]

Very instructive! I'm wondering how do you determine the basic exposure time for the highlight with the grade 2 before going through the complete test strip showed in the video. An educated guess, an initial test strip with the grade 2 only? Thanks for your excellent video as usual.

[@Distphoto]

Thanks you. I am shooting for "around 16 seconds. Now in the video the highlights were 12 seconds or so. For this size image I use a ND filter under my lens and f7.1 and it is in the ball park unless something is way off with the negative. So yeah a bit of an educated guess but the range is quite wide and usually will yeild a good test. Helps to take notes, make a standard set up, materials, etc...

[@dan.allen.digital]

Thanks for making this helpful video. As a new dark room printer I think my last print was 13 pages of trial and error to get the highlights and contrast correct. This method seems to be a little more straightforward.

[@Distphoto]

@@dan.allen.digital Hour welcome! Definitely helps to have a method or system in place!

[@ianland4768]

Great video. I started using f-stop timing about 5 years ago and it's so much easier as a way of evaluating a test print. You can think in stops rather than time, which comes completely naturally.

[@Distphoto]

@@ianland4768 Can be very beneficial 👍

[@rolft.7697]

ordered the test strip printer yesterday; excited to finally make some proper test strips 🙂

[@Distphoto]

@@rolft.7697 Awesome, thank you, I think you will love it!

[@ALefort-de9gu]

Super dooper!! A great course on how to save a lot of paper!! Thanks!

[@Distphoto]

@@ALefort-de9gu you’re welcome!

[@jw48335]

Great stuff!

[@Distphoto]

Thanks!

[@trotomas]

Great video as always, I’m writing the software for my ftop timer for the next printing season

[@Distphoto]

Nice, that is cool!

[@trotomas]

@@Distphoto would you like to give me some advices/ideas?

[@anotherguycalledsmith]

0:51 What has your _potato rasp_ to do with that???

[@Distphoto]

Not sure what you are referring to?

[@liveinaweorg]

@@Distphoto I think he means your test strip tool as it resembles a grater used to make Boxty (often called Rasp too).

[@andrewrothery5246]

Looks excellent. How do you calculate your times for minus and plus -2/3, -1/3, +1/3, +2/3. Is that the times from your F stop timer or are you calculating them?

[@Distphoto]

I don't use an fstop timer. I just use this for test strips. There are several charts I have that break the numbers down, In Tim Rudman's book, Way Beyond Monochrome and others. A google search will get you there as well. The target is 16 seconds because that is where I "like to start" It could be 32 sec in the middle and stop your lens down or use ND filter etc...

[@andrewrothery5246]

@@DistphotoThank you for your prompt reply. I think I have the book and will look it up.

[@Prastais]

t = 2^(fstop-1/3) …. -2/3 , 1 …

[@IncendiaHL]

​@@Prastaiswell, I usually set a base time, let's say 45 seconds. Then get the adjustments with basetime*2^fstop. 45*2^(-1)=22.5 45*2^(-2/3)=28.3 45*2^(-1/3)=35.7 45*2^0=45 45*2^(1/3)=56.7 45*2^(2/3)=71.4 45*2^1=90

[@Prastais]

@@IncendiaHL For years now I haven't thought about seconds, only f-stops. If an f-stop timer is not available, a table (in video 1:30) can be printed and stick with the values - time=2^(n/3) in my daily routine I use n/6. stop think in seconds! ;)