Get The Best SHARPNESS - Telephoto Lens Shooting Tips

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I have received many comments and feedback about not getting sharp images when shooting with very long lenses eg Olympus 75-300mm lens or using teleconverters MC-20 or MC-14. Some have asked for tips or techniques on shooting with these long focal lengths to get sharp results. I am sharing the best I can here about shooting sharp images using long telephoto lenses.
1:05 - Update camera & lens firmware to the latest versions
2:16 - Manage your expectations: long lens is not easy
3:53 - Use Anti-Shock Setting
5:24 - Watch Your Shutter Speed
6:53 - Don't Center Focus & Recompose
7:59 - Proper Hand-Holding Technique for Long lenses
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[@breadyegg]

Another really important factor. *Squeeze don't stab the shutter button* When I experimented with this a few years back I was shocked by how much shake and therefore blur stabbing the shutter button made in a shot whose shutter speed I would have expected a sharp image.

[@StewartBairdPhoto]

My wife always - "I love that guy, so inspiring" - she's not even a photographer ;-)

[@robinwong]

This is a first! Thanks for letting me know.

[@EduardLopezArcos]

Agree!

[@breadyegg]

He should do life coaching videos 🤣😆

[@ruuddirks5565]

I never realized the risk off "focus and recompose". You're right off course and therefore I have to change my technique.

[@robinwong]

The risk is amplified with use of extremely long lenses (eg 150mm at F2.8) or shooting very close up, or use of super bright prime lenses, eg 45mm F1.2.

[@DeMorcan]

Good tips. Another thing I found helps me is to shot short bursts (3 or 4) shots with C-AF. If there is movement of the subject (or the camera), I have a much better chance than if I shot just one shot.

[@robinwong]

That is a fantastic suggestion!

[@joerghummerjohann4854]

Maybe one other point: Press quickly the release button! If you are waiting too long between half pressed release button (focus on) and full (release) there might be a movement of your motive inbetween resulting in blur.

[@PinnaclePete]

Very good tips Robin. I'll have to check the firmware on both my lenses and body just to confirm I have the latest version. I haven't done that in a while. ☹ When I bought my first interchangeable-lens camera it was a SLR during the film era. The very first instruction in the manual was "How to Hold your Camera Properly" cradling the weight of the body with your left hand as you stated. The accompanying photos made the instructions clear. Although it felt a little strange at the beginning, I got used to it quickly. It was some of the best camera advice I ever got! My camera was a Konica but it didn't matter which brand, Nikon, Canon, Olympus, Minolta, Pentax, Yashica, Leica, Topcon, etc. - they all gave the same camera holding advice. I would respectfully add, as you hold your camera this way press your elbows into your torso which serves to steady the camera even more! Also either exhaling slowly as you press the shutter or holding your breath can help keep the camera still as you take the photo. You have a fertile mind Robin. I don't know how you come up with so many ideas for new videos. . . . . but you do!

[@Lordvader330]

Huge fan of this tips videos.

[@breadyegg]

5:31 I've not seen the ibis in action before. That was epic!

[@livkief]

Thanks, Robin

[@joerghummerjohann4854]

Thanks, Robin! Since changing from "focusing and recompose" to AF field movement I've managed sharper pics with long lenses and outdoor model shootings with open A

[@ashleyabate-berry4322]

Your videos are always so helpful! I also shoot Canon and love the Olympus thus far, especially to travel with. Big learning curve for me to adjust but honestly having fun with it so far, especially with all your great info! Thank you!

[@stuartriley]

Great information Robin! I am a follower of your channel and I appreciate your efforts and work on educating us on the issues of making sharper images.

[@ayhancapan]

No dislike. Congratulations. You deserve only thumbs up. I've learned alot from just one video. Thanks.

[@mikeames8339]

Best tips I have ever seen. Thank you!!!

[@PaulPavlinovich]

Awesome Robin as always. The zero wait anti shock is a good tip that really works. I enjoy your videos because you get right to the point and don't waste time.

[@robinwong]

Thanks Paul, I do my best to keep my videos as compact and dense as possible. We are all busy people and we don't have too much time.

[@MarcLa1010]

Thank Robin. Very good tips. You are a pro in communication.

[@robinwong]

Thanks, you are being too kind.

[@rayjenkins2754]

Very good tips. On my G9 w the leica 100~400mm I ; Adapted a short telescoping mono-pod that screws into the lens. The other end's foot goes into a pouch @ my waist. My left hand holds onto the pole. Half press shutter, shutter type = EFC - starts off electronic & then transitions to mechanical = no shutter shock. If the subjects likely to move - animal or bird - I use burst. Back Button Focus.

[@rudolfabelin383]

Thanks Robin! Somewhere down the road I will buy a long lens.

[@robinwong]

Cheers!

[@DaveParizek]

Very helpful! Would love more like this and also more on all the settings of the different E-M1 cameras

[@KarlwithaC]

1/100s Shutter speed might be fine if you're stationary on a tripod but handheld I find that I need to have at least the same shutter speed as my focal length. For example at 300mm the shutter speed should be at least 1/300s for sharp images. I almost forgot to add, great video. Very informative.

[@MzuMzu-nx1em]

Probably one of the secrets iss to wait the right day with the right wheater Even with a cheap camera if the light is correct , the result is great

[@rolfrdr]

Very good practical tips! Your videos are any time very helpful! Thanx!

[@robinwong]

Thanks Rolf, glad you have found the tips useful.

[@richerich8007]

As usual Robin another excellent video. I'm a bird photographer and like you have taken photos handheld at 1/30 or slower, however that is the exception not the rule, and have had many failed attempts due to slight bird movement. Most of my bird photography is done with SS at 1/500 or greater!

[@robinwong]

Indeed, just because we can shoot at slow shutter speeds hand-held, it does not mean we should do it in all situations, it may not even be practical for certain shots. The birds are alive after all, and they constant move, even micro movements that we may not see with our eyes.

[@torstenschmid7415]

Hey Robin. Thank you very much for this video. 👍👍👍👍

[@mariangroeneveld7401]

Hai Robin, thanks for the tips, very useful! Enjoy the coffee

[@tobiasdavid3096]

Thanks Robin. Just the right timing. I recently compared my birding images with someone who uses a Nikon D500. And his images appeared to me much sharper. So now I‘m trying to figure out wether it’s the hardware or a user ( so my) mistake. I assume it’s the shutterspeed. But I‘ll check on Software too now.

[@opariz1976]

Also If you use teleconvertors check the aperture. For example for mc20 the best aperture is 13. If you have problems using 300mm 4.0-never set distance switch to 1.4-infinity- it is absolutely never sharp. Use 1.4-4m or 4m-infinity. These two are sharp.

[@robinwong]

No worries, Olympus can produce fantastic results, provided images are free from subject movement/hand-shake blur, and you don't go crazy ISO numbers. In my previous review of 100-400mm I had to go ISO800-1600 and I still find the images to be really sharp and perfectly fine. I can't say the same if you shoot at ISO6400 or higher, that is when things start to fall apart.

[@mozinoz_digital]

Thanks Robin- I shoot surf videos/photos GH5 & Olympus 45-150 f2.8 pro & 1.4 teleconverter. Excellent portrait quality results when in range. But I’m considering upgrading to GH6 & new longer lens. I’m undecided on lens: panny 100-400, Olympus 300mm pro, Olympus 75-300ii. Yr suggestion welcomed! Thx MozinOz.

[@opariz1976]

Great as always!!! Thank you very much!!!😁😁😁

[@1957PLATO]

Very useful tips, Robin. Thanks.

[@systemanaturae105]

Great video clip as always Robin, especially for me as I have both 40-150mm and 300mm pro lenses and x1.4 and x2.0 teleconverters. It is a shame that the 40-150mm lens does not have image stabilization which would be very helpful when used in conjunction with x2.0 teleconverter giving a full zoom of 300mm. The 300mm pro lens does of course have IS !!!! I have a question. The Image Stabilization in menu cog wheel C2 has two settings. Fps and IS - priority. Under what situations which would you choose ???? Shooting with long telephoto lenses is probably the most difficult to do. Especially with wildlife !!! The stabilisation will become even more important when the 150-400mm plus x1.25 teleconverter is released. I have been saving money for a year now for what will inevitably be a very expensive lens !!!!!. Can you imaging this lens with a x2.0 teleconverter attached !!!!! So many interesting developments happening with Olympus at the moment. Particularly in my case the super telephoto lens and the 100mm macro. I would highly recommend to anyone thinking of taking up photography as a hobby, the micro 4/3rds system with Olympus and Panasonic/Lumix systems. Smaller and relatively cheaper, not so large particularly with telephoto lenses and generally less weight. My recommendations at this time is buy the OMD EM1 mark iii and DCM G9 cameras with Panasonic 12-35mm, 15mm Leica, and 42.5mm Noctricron lenses and Olympus 40-150mm and 300mm pro lenses. Best wishes.

[@RTFM70]

Some very useful tips Robin. Thanks 👍

[@911Polini]

tHanks Robin..take soft pics(40-150 pro with tc20) of an ice bird...wrong holding technique, and not applies anti shock will give it try..

[@69horatioh]

Great video, Robin. I love your videos. Very helpfull👍👍

[@robinwong]

Thanks, appreciate the kind words

[@macg33zr]

Good tips thanks for the video. For triggering the shutter I try to roll my finger lightly across the shutter button instead of pressing down hard. Also I sometimes use centre focus and recompose with C-AF + Tracking then the focus point is always tracking on the subject when I recompose, like on a duck that is swimming

[@geoffoliverphotography]

Great tips Robin, as always 👍

[@robinwong]

Awesome!

[@johngunning2123]

Tip #5 was a new one for me, "the risks of "focus and recompose". Makes sense when you think about it. I assume this is when using back-button focusing.

[@joerghummerjohann4854]

Not only then, always when working with open A. I did it since decades and since I changed it to AF field movement, I had really better pics. In animal and outdoor model shootings

[@ianbower6434]

i would like to see you do a video on how to set the focus mode and pattern for moving subjects. I am currently tyring to take photos of whippet racing with my EM1mk1 & 14-150mm lens but not getting many sharp shots.

[@haeysart.duncan]

No.1000 😁

[@Lionroarr]

This clip is very useful.

[@robertojimenezleal629]

Great tips!!!!

[@robinwong]

Cheers, glad you like them.

[@Kozitaju]

Very good tips !!! thank you so much sir :-)

[@cmalc8]

What's the disadvantage of the ♦anti-shock setting? If there was zero disadvantage I'd guess it would be on all the time by default.

[@keithturner428]

Great thanks Robin :)

[@JunJs8]

Nice info👍👍👍👍👍

[@craigb8379]

Hi Robin, another great video. I must have unsteady hands and often get soft shots with my long lens and my macro lens, which I am convinced is from user movement (despite my best efforts)... I will definitely try your tip of picking up the lens with your left hand first, as current I swing it up from a tether strap with my right hand and probably support them equally with each hand. Are there any downsides to the anti-shock electronic shutter in the wildlife context? It is definitely worth trying for me as I have definitely noticed on occasion that I can feel the camera move when I press the shutter button on mechanical shutter. With the dual IS on E-M1.3 and 300mm, is there any setup required or is it automatic? Cheers, Craig

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the kind words. If you are shooting at lower ISO numbers (ISO200-800) and your subject does not move fast, then electronic shutter is no issue. I still prefer anti-shock, because sometimes I do crank up my ISO and electronic shutter introduces weird color casts/more noise in higher ISO images.

[@verlenelewis9866]

Thanks, great tips! Better go check my firmware😏

[@robinwong]

Yeah, get them updated! Olympus did a lot of effort in fixing bugs and improve the firmware via every version.

[@elbinotm]

Hi Robin. Thanks for the tips. Actually I sometimes use the center focus method, too. Good point to not do this (depending on the aperture). One question to the anti shock mode: Why don't you use the electronic shutter instead? Okay, if the animals are moving very fast I can understand that. But is there a disadvantage using that mode in normal day light?

[@robinwong]

Yeah, imagine shooting at 150mm F2.8, at close distance, the depth of field is razor thin! I have also made a video about electronic shutter. Do check it out! I'd still recommend using anti-shock.

[@tribomber17]

Hi Robin. There's much out there about using a long lens' OIS rather than the camera's IBIS. The EM1 Mkiii even has a Lens Priority setting in the menu. I thought you would mention it in your video but you did not. Do you have an opinion on that? I have that set now while using that with my new Panny 100-400, but only got the lens yesterday so not enough experience to know how well it works.

[@dannybrusseel5525]

Hi Robin i have just orderd the olympus 100-400 super telezoom lens. Do i need to set the axis off on my omd em1? And leave it on on the lens? Robin i like to know how close where you to your objects when you took the pictures with the 100-400mm and i like to know it in metres aprox, thx

[@petersmitham8273]

I’m out birdwatching tomorrow so this is very handy info......you must be psychic?....📸🌈😎🇬🇧.

[@robinwong]

Maybe I am!

[@breadyegg]

Cue X-Files theme 🎶

[@kiwijinxter]

Thumbs up! Thanks for yet another highly informative video tips! Ah Robin, I notice your 40-150mm Pro does not have the lens collar. I just got mine, and because of my smaller hands, it does get in the way of my zoom ring. And it's also a pain to have my camera pointing upwards everytime I lay it down because the height of the lens collar is higher than the camera. Are there any disadvantages to removing the lens collar? (e.g. expose screws making it less weatherproof, lens sits on the ground level). BTW, I notice you're using an EM1 MkIII did you upgrade from your MkII?

[@robinwong]

If you watch my previous video, I high recommend removing the tripod collar for hand-held shooting. If you use tripod, surely, you must mount your tripod on the collar itself, not on the camera to prevent damage. The E-M1 Mark III belongs to Olympus.

[@kiwijinxter]

@@robinwong OK cool thanks (yep, for sure, I would certainly mount the lens collar on tripod - I just don't use tripods, can't be bothered, am one of these lazy, carefree photographers). Yep will watch your previous video, thanks!

[@garyrobinson8665]

Robin I use centre point focus and recompose. Moving the focus square using the buttons is too slow for my street photography and the multi area point auto focus is not accurate enough. Do you have any other suggestions or should i stick with the centre point auto focus and recompose.

[@extremelydave]

Since Olympus cameras have auto focus, there is no reason to not hold the whole weight of the camera in your left hand like Robin said.... in the old days of manual focus, yes, that was a pain. Fortunately we are not still in the past.....

[@robinwong]

very good point, Dave! Thanks

[@lichtloper]

05:34 Sorry Robin, no criticism, but I think I saw some dust in the lensmount. Kind regards, PeterK

[@lasse1097]

Great :-)

[@Tbonyandsteak]

You get what you pay for............The real ultra transparent glass are very expensive. Lesser expensive lenses mix it with lesser transparent glass in order to set the prizes down. Today the science of APO, Macro, Aspherical are all well known. The real differences are the glasses. APS-C uses lesser glass, so they are bound to have the best prize values.

[@TheShepherdw]

Hey Robin , you didn’t tell them about the image stabilisation c2 menu where you can change the focal length of lens . I fixed the poor performance of myPanasonic 100-400 it was set for a wide angle lens.

[@robinwong]

That focal length is only valid for manual lens. It has nothing to do with Micro Four Thirds electronic lens which has digital communication capability with the camera.

[@alb41ful]

As always a great video! I appreciate your clear explainations . Much appreciated with thanks!

[@robinwong]

Thanks, glad you have found the video useful.