GIANT 3D Print FAIL (You guys were right) / Char Model WIN: 3D Print Side Hustle Chronicles Vlog

[@minibiice1234]

There is an issue with giga that when the extruder moves to the furthest position away from spool that it under extrudes because the filament pulls tight. This is where your separation happened.

[@ApocalypsesDawn]

Makes a lot of sense 👍

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

Seriously?

[@Joshuamorris81]

I could see this. I just had to send my Creality printer back for doing a similar issue on large prints. Luckily it was still under warranty. They said the extruder gear or motor was bad and the poping sound (That I thought was bad filament) was the gear popping or slipping causing the filament to under extrud making it go thin to thick causing parts to not attach properly

[@steelseeker]

@@TechnicalsTinkers yea is a known thing saw on 2 other youtubers videos

[@802Garage]

Makes sense! Making sure the spool is on a bearing of some kind with a bearing guide for the filament if it's being looped over could definitely help. You have a super wide gantry so pulling on that head, especially the further up it gets and the more perpendicular the filament is to the back of the printhead, the more it's gonna be able to flex everything backwards. A very small deviation in nozzle aim can completely mess up a layer.

[@steelseeker]

you really should do little more test prints smaller ones for the giga, and test each bed and how far the spool is from the farther point of the print if that helps, printing smaller higher prints like a simple cube with lighting infuill 2-3 walls or so with a brim to see if its under extruding ect, and in orcaslicler run some calibrations for the filaments and temp tests. i have allways found doing my own caibrations for rapid pla helps me with stable prints

[@nickbean6727]

"Throw them in the ocean!" 😂😂😂😂

[@johntetreault]

With your character models where you have difficult to remove supports... Since you're printing with the AMS, if you've got an extra filament slot you're not using for a color in the model, setup a roll of cheap PETG and tell Bambu Studio to use that for the support interface and set the support z gap to 0. PETG and PLA don't like each other, so they won't stick to each other, which is what allows the 0 z gap, making the supports super easy to remove, and the 0 z gap will give you a much cleaner finish with no marring where the supports were.

[@rrittenhouse]

I've seen people use a heat gun to slightly heat up the plastic so the supports come off cleaner. I haven't done it myself yet.

[@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel]

Have you thought about plastic welding? I have been using a wood burning tool at a lower setting. It’s a bit messy, but if you plan to paint it, after sanding it will be solid. I made a large sword and glued it, replaced the plastic pegs, replaced them and glued with wood dowels and still snapped. Plastic welding made it solid, 2 years later that thing is still solid and together while the glued ones fell apart. I just got a 3D pen and will experiment with that. Might be easier to clean after.

[@jonathanrogers9961]

I price based off 4 factors. I do filament times 1.1 to account for loss. Machine time at $0.19 per hours which includes my electricity rate, and the cost of replacing the machine at the about 13k hours of print time (around 3rds running 12 hours a day). I price labor at $20 an hour just to keep things simple. If all I have to do is pull it off the build plate I call it 5min. If I have to remove supports I start a stopwatch. This gives me my base price, like how much I have into the part. Last part is profit margin, and that is what I am struggling to figure out. Your model of just pricing where you think it will sell is not a bad one. For me I prefer a flat rate over top of my cost.

[@andrewnewton9137]

Once you have the head print sorted, order the Marble filament from Bambu for it.. This looks amazing and will look brilliant on the gigs!

[@willofthemaker]

NGL the supports on the devil succubus girl gave it kinky sci Fi vibe lol

[@dougcox835]

The easy way to remove supports is to work them back and forth and at some point they will just break off.

[@figuresix]

My experience with wacked out supports is do them yourself. Go in a place them where you want them. Those seem to be to far dug into the model. They go inside the hair which is giving the most issue. Put supports on edge where they start. The angel should be enough to keep it going without issue once the island part of the hair is supported.

[@johntetreault]

The layer separation is because, yes, just like we told you, the print not having the integrity that proper infill would give it, combined with floppy thin walls, tends to flex as the print head passes over that spot, so you don't get good layer adhesion. Yeah if you are 90% done you continue on and hope to salvage... But you had so little done, you should have killed the print as soon as you noticed the infill problem.

[@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel]

Heat up the cutter with a lighter to cut the bulk of the support not to put too much pressure on the hair connection point.

[@SIJVIA]

I personally also run my pla a bit higher around 215-220

[@Joshuamorris81]

I was watching “Doing It With Dan “ A couple episodes ago. It was pretty entertaining. I guess one of His Sponsors had sent him a RC car and now it’s an addiction for him and his dog. He has to get out the RC a couple times a day. But the dog does break the RC car and he has to fix it fairly often. Would be cool if you could make or have design a dog RC car that you could just print replacement parts for and have just a flat top that can attach a stuffed animal or something to it 🤔If their isn’t one already I guess

[@McShimi]

Adaptive Gyroid infill is what i use, more/less infill when needed

[@joekelley9311]

Rather than raise temp lower the fan speed or turn it off you count't need it to cool quickly on that size print where a small print would mush out if it was not cooled, lower your speed by 10%

[@ApocalypsesDawn]

Why don't you just print a smaller version of the head on the giga so you don't waste so much? Just to tune it first then go big

[@MrExo_3D]

the low T crowd.. usually the ones making fun are the ones most affected lol

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

936 as of 3 months ago. Been on the needle for years LOL

[@chugstep33]

892 as of Friday and same haha

[@MrExo_3D]

@@TechnicalsTinkers lol knew it.. keep jabbing :)

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

don't forget to take your DHEA! lmao

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

don't forget to take your DHEA! lmao

[@802Garage]

Demon girl came out great! Bummer the Moai has issues. The discussion on the last video about making it double shell got pretty interesting. One commenter said they were able to bring the print time and filament way down by making it a double shell and the added support and strength should really help get a nice outer layer. Alternatively with a print like that you could probably get away with no infill and more walls. Oh just got to where that's what you did. Only a few hard parts internally. So the lightning infill might be a good call. Appreciate you sharing all these journeys because everyone can learn what works and what doesn't! Higher speeds and hotter temps shouldn't hurt you given the long layer times. You could take the bottom of that model and add something silly to the top. Moai body with a lion head or some nonsense, ya know? Just a thought. Before you toss it in the ocean.

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

Paul sent me his version of it. He's really a lifesaver. I need to swap to the 1mm nozzle, but his version takes almost 2x as much filament. DOH Also, we must feed the hungry sea creatures and throw it in the ocean

[@802Garage]

@TechnicalsTinkers Hahaha it's true. They yearn for the corn plastic. With the 1mm nozzle you may be able to get away with two walls I'd think. You can do crazy stuff with modifier volumes too, but to just modify the inner shell for example you'd def need the full CAD file to pull the inner volume into the slicer. Still excited to see what you try out! I'd be happy to try some slicing of the stuff you're printing eventually just to experiment.

[@tombo7719]

on the top of her chest, do layer gradient on them, slows down print but makes that surface more smooth.

[@bobrozz7791]

Oh wow! did you sculpt those devil girls? They look pretty good. From far away you can't see any layer lines. Have you considered trying a plastic that can be vapor smoothed? I wonder if you would lose to much detail?

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

I didn't model those lol. I can barely model a cube. Vapor smoothing not sure is in the cards for me. I'm allergic to post-prod!

[@KurtBoutin]

Regarding supports, have you thought about using a different material just to use for supports? I've seen that recommended in a number of places.

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

I tired petg and breakaway material in previous videos, neither worked great. might retry

[@CaptnNate]

Use dissolvable support filament for the girl figures

[@CritterRacing]

Sv08 has extruded issue. The shaft that holds the extruded gear slides out of place. I glued my shaft in place. Check yours.

[@PERKINSP]

Good Afternoon People..

[@googleuser8235]

Crack caused by drafts and thickness, thin large prints crack easy. And if the infill looks like crap, stop the print.

[@saltykidd1093]

On your supports setting what is your top z distance set to? I find if you set it to .275 on top z distance supports come off better and easier.

[@chrisgill5692]

No way that 3 perimeters of 0,4mm width are strong enough for something that large, no chance. If you dont want to model a double wall, you could maybe try uping the line width to say 1,0mm and then using 3 perimeters. You could run the inner walls fast, and slow down the outer wall speed for quality. Personally, i'd drop the layer height to say 0,35mm calibrate the settings properly for a 0,6mm nozzle or better still go up to 0,8mm or even a 1,0mm nozzle. Do a smaller scale print size or sample of the head while you get the settings nailed - it should be taking you hours to tune/calibrate your settings before attempting something like this!!!!!

[@FrodeBergetonNilsen]

My specialty is PETG and 0.6 nozzle. I never use 0,48 layer height. The only thing that works reliably for me is 0,3. Anything beyond that, just breaks prints. Buy this is what I am really good at. And I don't get the logic of them layer lines of yours. Why this narrow? If I print infill at anything below 0,64mm, the infill just becomes trash. Sure, I can increase the layer width, but not decrease it. When ever I do, for single extrusions, the print breaks. As in, the quality and the look of it, it trash. Like blobs, or varying lines, or even missing lines. If you increase layer width, you usually may safely do that, and reliability will remain. If you increase layer height, that is typically unsafe for reliability. You probably want to use that overhang reduced speed and increased fan speed as well, as that will give you local slowdown, and not universal, as in where it is needed. Also, you can safely set speed by layer height. Just make sure that this does not produce too much difference in the surface finish, as the speed change will result in a temp change for the filament. Somebody made a mod for that, or you might be able to vary the temp by layers as well, but it is not a setting in Prusaslicer, which is what I have been using. Also, you can easily vary perimeters by layer height. With steep overhangs or like to surfaces, that is often needed. If your prints do not need the exact same surface finish, I would just run the lower section way faster. If it breaks, it is not such a great loss. But as you go up the stack, slowing things down to something more safe and reliable, is probably also a good bet. You may even change the layer height, by height. For instance, the skull, on the top, if you go all the way down to 0,2 or 0,15, it will get a seriously nice finish. Just remember to use enough perimeters, adjust your linewidth if being crazy with it, and so on. Also, learning to print infill is crucial. You could just print some basic rectilinear infill at 5%, and just increase it by layers, as needed. For instance on the top. Infill adds structural integrity and support. If you want to exploit that giga, you need to master both. Just don't print infill at those layer widths. That simply will not work. Never seen anyone doing any work on this at all. Had to learn by tinkering, which is exactly what you do right now.

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

Layer width is locked to the nozzle diameter, is it not? So you're saying to do a layer height that's an even divisor of the nozzle size e.g. 0.3 for the 06mm?

[@bobjoe1593]

​@@TechnicalsTinkers you can absolutely set width larger than nozzle ID (in fact usually the standard is a bit larger). Verdana3d just did a video a few days ago experimenting with how far an 0.4 could be pushed for vase mode and found that depending on the nozzle shoulder, you can push it much further

[@duckknapp4611]

hight max 3/4 of nozzle diameter and u will have much better results.

[@FrodeBergetonNilsen]

@@TechnicalsTinkers No. For an 0,6 nozzle, what is typically used is 0,15-0,4mm layer height. Of that, 0,4 is generally considered more a draft mode. It is more the a range, which by experience has proven to work well. Remember, all I say is just based on my experience for my setup and so on, if someone suddenly gets something else to work, and that often happens in this industry, I am all ears. For the things you are printing, it sounds like 0,8 is more fitting, but watch D-flow's review of the Giga. The thing got limited extrusion capability for its build volume, and cannot really feed a 0,8 nozzle. As for line width. That too is a range. Just look at your own video, and you can see the differences even there. You got a seriously fat line for that first line, with 0,8mm layer width. That is an old trick, to achieve better bed adhesion, but it pretty much ruins any pattern at the bottom of the print. If you want more stable prints. Well no. If I were printing on the Giga, it would be with PETG. I would probably use at least 0,66mm for base layer width, and try that out. Find some crazy model with all kind of crazy acrobatics, and just run through it to, to learn what to expect. If 0,62mm is what everybody has been using, that is simply lame. Completely incompetent and stupid. At least for PETG. Which again, it is all about a range. This will be different from printer to printer, extruder to extruder, but the basic physics is the same. The range and what works miraculously tend to be about the same. Also, support is typically single line extrusions, often even single walls. They should be printed at safe speeds, with layer widths that are safe for any layer height. I am probably a bit of bore, but reliability is not what the crowd in here is great at. If I get your character, you probably are a bit impatient, but to succeed with this machine, you need to hurry slooowly. Also, not sure about the OS on that thing, if it is rooted Klipper or not. But if you run auto bed leveling, ABL, that correction is typically kept all through the freaking print. You sort of got a massive load on that Z, and watching the slicer, we all tend to assume that every layer is at the same height or level. With ABL, they are not. Klipper may phase out ABL, not sure how well that works, but that would help on the Giga. It is off by default. There seem to be issues with reliability as they struggle implementing a phase out, that is what is stated in the Klipper manual. I don't really see why phasing it out over 30 layers should cause a ton of issue, nor be that visible? I would personally really aim to get a great first layer, and just disable ABL in the gcode. A ton of work to master, but when done, you will be in another universe. Not to mention the reduction in vibrations higher up, in that Shaking Stevens of a frame you got. A first layer with thick line width and 0.4 or 0.48, what ever works, will usually stick fine to a fairly flat bed. Even with phase out and ABL on, on a fairly flat bed, I don't see why that should bring a ton of issues. Another thing, you may set a print for multi color print. That way you may select to swap filament after a specific level. You will get an estimate for each level you set. That way, you will be in control of the spool swaps, and the change will probably be a ton prettier. Then just join the leftover with that Sunlu thing. It is more about what works. Like this thing works sometimes, but can crash, or this often times looks ugly, and for reliable printing you sort of have to be both a nerd and a dork. Slow is not that sexy, for instance. But hey, the stuff you churn out is pretty fun, keep at it. I would really appreciate the details that actually works for you, because I am all ears about that. By the way, I think you are actually a good fit for this type of business. As long as you are willing to change your ways as to what actually work, as to get the job done. In case you missed it, modern slicers use variable layer width to fill gaps, particularly for perimeter. Not sure how well that works if you go extreme on the line height and super narrow on the line width, as you just did. But to me, it does not really seem to work very well.

[@DougToppin]

On support concerns, I have not tried it yet, but PVA is supposed to be a dissolvable support. This is where the print is placed in water afterwards and the support material dissolves away. Would that be an option for some of your prints?

[@tombo7719]

how cold is the garage? Does it dip down? Layer separation would/could do.

[@TheFoxalot]

Why use matte when you can do regular/glossy at 0.1 fuzzy skin and get benefits of strength of regular PLA

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

might try it!

[@Haxzyr]

You could use a cnc table adjusted for height of leveling bad print layer to grind flush. Then print the other part with an inset embossing for a lid to put your w**d in it. 😂

[@EvanRobin]

Just out of curiosity what are those outlet panels on the wall? Looks like there's a screen on them. Great content btw keep it uo

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

Custom outlets I made to fit a drok meter & couple ethernet jacks. for monitoring power consumption (for my crypto channel)

[@EvanRobin]

@@TechnicalsTinkers Can you make a video about it? or perhaps just link the meter you used and an STL? That looks awesome and Id love that on my wall lol.

[@massriver]

Black is the worst possible color. Seriously is it loaded with graphite? Natural pla is preferable or possibly white.

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

Worst because of abrasion?

[@massriver]

@TechnicalsTinkers maybe the additives

[@kennethoros4043]

Maybe for revenue for technical tinkers how about patreons members allow unedited characters videos options.

[@Krunkle78]

Yeah... I woke up to 3 of my 4 printers decided to say ya know what lets just screw up lol my Neptune 4 plus was the worse I just had to order another extruder hahaha sign! fails all around :P Great Vlog bro!!

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

ty!

[@Krunkle78]

@@TechnicalsTinkers Im excited to see how the head goes with that type of infill, I'm just getting into the "bigger" prints no on your size yet lol but I'm learning as I go! have a great day my friend! :)

[@shanechristiansen38]

Question.... you mentioned youtube money, and you are not the first person to say doing a channel to get paid. Care to elaborate on that aspect of it, as in youtube pay structure and requirements, etc?

[@TechnicalsTinkers]

I'ts pretty well open the requirements, but ad rates vary based on a number of things. Ad spins pay a lot in december usually. Ultimately, the more watch hours you have, the more $, which is why youtube is plagued with LOONNNG videos (mine included)