Go Power! 400W Pure Sine Wave Inverter - NoBo 10.6 Off the Grid Camping Demonstration & Review

[@rustyhooks9482]

Great job with this video and your entire channel for that matter, A+ my friend thank you!

[@AdventureRocks]

Thank you, appreciate that!

[@ColoradoJack]

Hi, Thanks so much for creating and posting your videos. Very informative, clear, well presented, etc. I am a new owner of a NoBo 10.6 and looking to upgrade to the Battleborn Lithium Battery. Is it possible for you to share the private video you posted on the upgrade that is posted in this video as related? Thanks again for creating and sharing your knowledge, experience, and tips.

[@AdventureRocks]

Thank you. I've got a similar one on a Renogy lithium here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bHPXaHZ_bLaNbdU Basically the biggest obstacle is swapping out converter/charger, as oftentimes RV manufacturers ship with an outdated converter/charger that is designed for lead-acid batteries with a different charging profile/floating voltage comapred to lithium, so if you don't swap the charger (or converter/charger if it is an all-in-one like the NoBo 10.6), then you'll only get about 80% charge or so on the lithium. This can vary so you'll hear about some folks not updating the charger...but it is true you'll limit use of lithium if you're using a lead-acid-based charger. Anyway, NoBo may have changed this on the more current model years so double check on yours in advance. Otherwise if your converter/charger is lithium compatible, it's as easy as dropping in the new lithium battery and duplicating connections. Battleborn makes great batteries, but in today's times there are a lot of other brands that make great lithium batteries at a more affordable price (even more affordable than Renogy).

[@ColoradoJack]

Thank you very much!

[@JohnS916]

Very good info. About five years ago I bought a Victron 90AH AGM battery to power my astrophotography rig at a remote dark sky location. Due to some equipment issues and personal medical problems, I could not follow through with the plan, but I'm finally getting closer to realizing it. I settled on the Victron battery based on quality, weight, and specs. I bought it from a marine supply outlet. I'm not sure if lithium Ion batteries were available then, but I do know based on my budget needs, they are expensive. Maybe in the future, I'll switch to Lithium-Ion. I believe the Victron will give me both the power and duration to complete two full-night imaging sessions. If I run short, I can supplement my power needs by using lead-acid batteries to run individual items like dew heaters or guide scope. I have two of these batteries in reserve, just in case I need them. In the meantime, I have the Victron hooked up to an approved trickle charger and a recent meter test indicated the battery has not degraded and maintained a full charge via the trickle charger. Looking back, it looks like I should have purchased the GEL Victron instead of the AGM model based on performance characteristics and my power requirements. Oh well, the battery will work for what I want it for. Eventually, I would like to pick up a pure sine wave inverter, based on your detailed information in the video, and have the capacity to keep the refrigerator going in case of a power outage. Thanks again.

[@kvne71x]

Super useful video on real-world use.

[@gds5406]

Thanks, very informative. Valuable information for living in the rig. I like the straight forward information, no wishy washy guesses. Greg and Cody my manx.

[@AdventureRocks]

Thank you for the feedback! :)

[@thomasjust2663]

Cool, I have some experience camping and using these devices, the best way is to use native 12V or 24V items whenever possible, it's more efficient, for example Amazon sells 12V 7 watt light bulbs, if you tried to get the same lumens out of a 110V light bulb you would loose at least 10% of efficiency by a good inverter, cheaper inverters loose even more, I still use an inverter but only for things I can't find a 12V version for, there is even 12V power supplies for PC's, 12V fans...etc

[@AdventureRocks]

Absolutely, 100% :)

[@michaelgutierrez4083]

Lovin' your videos and your honesty about mistakes, ideas, options and changes you have in mind. We want to mod our NoBo for extended stays off grid. I am a former Boy Scoutmaster. Taught kids for years how to survive off grid. My wife won't give up some luxuries! Lol

[@AdventureRocks]

Thank you. That's awesome! It's such a fun rig to have for camping. So many places you can go with it!

[@michaelgutierrez4083]

@@AdventureRocks oh yeah. We get tons of compliments wherever we go! And we love showing it off! I should get a spokesman's kickback...

[@AdventureRocks]

@@michaelgutierrez4083 Amen to that! :)

[@chandlerh]

Awesome. Thanks again for doing these videos! Keep them coming.

[@AdventureRocks]

You bet! Thanks for the feedback :)

[@harrynickel8691]

Thanks for the info.

[@AdventureRocks]

Glad to help! Thank you.

[@atlenwoods7566]

Thanks for the update

[@j.goebbels2134]

Thanks for explaining this! I have an electric blanket (second one, because I thought the first was broken) trying to run through my inverters on boat. I need a new inverter just to run this blanket which required pure sine wave, which sux (my current inverters run everything except the blanket.) Recommendations on a low-cost inverter to run this blanket? Don't want to spend much money, because the new inverter will essentially be a dedicated device for the blanket (grrr).

[@AdventureRocks]

This video is pretty old, so a lot of newer tech since then. Would something like this serve you better? kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4SZg6F3a52Kl9U Otherwise a brand like Renogy might be a good fit if you need just a pure sine wave inverter to hook to existing batteries.

[@j.goebbels2134]

@@AdventureRocks Thanks for the fast reply. I ordered a 1000W pure sine wave off Amazon today. Have to wait and see if the electric blanket runs on it. You wouldn't think these electric blankets would be so finicky, but here we are....

[@robertgrlic6505]

Good video! Wondering why not hard wire on the back instead of using the outlet? Also, what's the max amps for AC?

[@AdventureRocks]

My unit did not have a hardwired option for the output. There may be a couple different versions of this specific model, and possibly an updated unit as this video is done several years back. 400W is the running watts, so about 3.3A converted.

[@atlenwoods7566]

That was cool to know thanks a million

[@FlickerNick]

Very infomative. Thanks mate.

[@AdventureRocks]

Thank you!

[@michaelrosales344]

Hello - love the mods. I have a question in regards to Mike Dunn’s comment regarding xfer switch into gfci outlet (stupid question?)? You mention wiring the switch into the romex side of the gfci. I interpret this as the “load” side of the gfci as labeled on the back. When I do this the main gfci switch quits working, no power and reset switch doesnt work. However the downstream outlets work. I’m guessing the switch is protecting itself with power sensed on the load side. When I wire on the “line” side of the gfci now I’m sending power back to the main panel energizing the panel and therefor causing a short back to the inverter via the dc converter circuit. Which was the initial concern of the thread. Thoughts? Thanks

[@AdventureRocks]

You'd want to use the romex coming out of the breaker panel for the GFCI outlets in the case of the NoBo (or whichever outlet bank desired from circuit breaker) as the main feed into the transfer switch, then the inverter output as the secondary feed into transfer switch. Then out of transfer switch to the actual line side of your first GFCI outlet, then the load to the rest of the outlets desired. Typically you'll have a GFCI breaker in the breaker panel as well as the actual GFCI outlet for redudancy. But you'll definitely want your first GFCI outlet downstream of the auto transfer switch on the output side.

[@mikedunn5289]

Stupid question - If I add the auto transfer switch, wouldn't the charger try to charge the battery from the inverter?

[@AdventureRocks]

That's a great question actually. You'll actually only feed the 120V Romex wire that feeds the GFCI circuit (outlets). Sometimes folks create a separate sub panel, but since all the outlets are on a single circuit already, it makes it easier (assuming you've got the NOBO 10.6 or similar setup). Hope this helps!

[@bdonnell1]

Any plans to install the Go Power solar panels?

[@AdventureRocks]

Yes, I've actually got the 130W GoPower portable setup (folding suitcase). I opted for that route mainly to get more solar with limited roof space and also be able to position it optimally for sun's location. I plan to do a quick review on it soon, perhaps next few weeks :)

[@MrJohnson337]

I’m doing this next weekend. Quick question, does your regular NoBo outlets run without having the inverter on? Also do I have the modify the fridge’s 110 outlet?

[@AdventureRocks]

In my video, I did my inverter outlet separately (dedicated) from the NoBo's existing GFI outlets (single circuit). So, in my case they run independent of one another. My 10.6 had a 12V outlet for fridge, so no impact there. However, there is a 120V outlet in the kitchen slide compartment, but no need to use that for fridge unless Forest River has changed vendors on fridge. The fridge should be native 12V, which means you'll leave it plugged into 12V all the time, and your converter/charger will automatically power it whether via 12V battery or 120V power. My only regret in the install was that I did not use an automatic transfer switch to feed the 120V GFI outlet circuit, as then it would have been seamless and I'd have all outlets wired to inverter when off grid, and all wired to 120V shore power when on the grid (as opposed to having a dedicated inverter outlet). Hope that makes sense.

[@MrJohnson337]

@@AdventureRocks makes sense. I’m thinking of doing my battery, inverter and circuit breaker from the inside of my box the run a cord to the inside of my Nobo. Thoughts?

[@MrJohnson337]

@@AdventureRocks Thank You! Great Videos

[@AdventureRocks]

As long as inverter stays dry it should be okay. Usually they aren't rated to be exposed to humidity/moisture, whereas the circuit breaker and battery can tolerate some moisture. Only other thing I can think of is potential code issue running 120V lines outside betweem box and inside NoBo? Might have to be a special insulated 14/2 wire to hold up outside. But, all the 12V stuff can go in the box for sure.

[@jasonmonday8116]

Great timing, I am just about to do my install. Since Watts and Amps, and battery life are new to me, I have one question. Currently, my battery is the original one that came with the unit. I want to install a HammerDown 1500 w (overkill) with the a transition switch you reccomended earlier. My use will be a small heater and electric blanket for the most part. Will my inverter size be an issue for weekend outings. I also have a generator for recharging most of the time? FYI, I do plan on getting a lithuim upgrade soon.

[@AdventureRocks]

The lead acid batteries don't have a BCM like lithium ion batteries where it attempts to restrict use for protection, so I'm pretty sure your lead acid battery bank will deliver whatever it is capable of. It may not be ideal, but should work. I would imagine if your inverter is pushed to limits within system, it will itself trip or shutdown when it reaches the limit of the lead acid battery as opposed to the battery shutting down (or possibly fuse or circuit breaker may indicate). Lithium ions can overheat if current discharge is too great, thus need for BCM. So probably under lighter loads like you described I would think it'd function mostly as normal. Being a larger inverter it may not operate as efficiently, so downside is runtime may leave something to be desired. Adding another lead acid to bank or switching to lithium like you mentioned would help too. With lithium + 1500W inverter, the battery itself would likely shut down under a heavy load. Hope this helps! Fun project!

[@learnamericanenglishlangua6416]

How do you power the inverter from the battery once the battery runs low if your off grid? Thanks

[@AdventureRocks]

A couple options. Most popular is solar. If you're off the grid and getting a decent amount of sunlight, you can use a solar panel to slowly recharge the battery (even while you're using the battery at the same time, such as the inverter). Solar is nice in that it is quiet (no noise), but it is very slow to charge so you have to leave it plugged in all day typically in the sun. Second option is a compact generator, such as the CAT INV2000. This makes some noise, although relatively quiet, but it can recharge battery from zero to full in just a couple hours. So I'd say most folks opt for the solar if possible, and then a backup option is the generator. One other option would be to recharge via your tow vehicle's 7-way connector, but that is a very slow trickle charge, and tow vehicle must be on, so really only an option if you're traveling and on the road all hooked up.

[@richardpayne9640]

The prices I've seen they should be gold plated

[@midnightrunner684]

You 😮 Know the thing😮

[@bob-ii8oe]

whats a bcm

[@AdventureRocks]

BCM = Battery Control Model, sometimes also referred to as BMS = Battery Management System. Most legit lithium batteries will have one built-in to the battery pack (internal) and it basically regulates and monitors the battery to prevent damage to battery. So the BCM/BMS may shut down a battery if it is pulling too much amperage too quickly, or if the temp is out of range, etc...basically cuts power for safety. Thanks for watching!

[@atlenwoods7566]

Cool

[@Matthew07080]

Really sounds sponsored 🤦

[@AdventureRocks]

Nope, completely on my own. One of the few RV vendors that I've consistently had a great experience with, though. They're not perfect like any company run by humans, but they seem to stand behind their products.

[@Matthew07080]

@@AdventureRocks great video though Wait how were you checking how many watts it was pulling from your batter , just curious coz I want one like that to like connect to my phone and monitor it

[@AdventureRocks]

@@Matthew07080 Sure, glad to help. I used the Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor to monitor current. It's not the cheapest, but my favorite overall: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bpubiJdvqbWKqqM