Goodbye, Mitre Saw!

[@tim_biller]

Give that man an Oscar!

[@waynesinden]

Ja, that was some dramatic emotional replay action 😃

[@geraldrees7846]

Or not😂

[@MattFrancis1]

Agreed. It was Shopping Channel levels of acting!

[@LcarlosCiceron8254]

😄🤣 Sí, dénle un Oscar!!👍👍

[@samTollefson]

Since I retired from job site work I only use my old-style chop box for cutting steel pipe and tubing. What I do use a lot and love is my old Sears 12" radial arm saw. One of the reasons people poopoo them as dangerous is that they are not using a negative rake toothed blade, its use keeps the blade from aggressively pulling through the cut. It has been reliably accurate and relatively easy to make adjustments to tune it in and it seems to do a good job staying there. One of the jobs it does wonderfully that none of my other tools does is making dados in stiles of tall shelving units. I use a wobble dado blade to get the perfect fit for today's undersized plywood and it takes a short time to make several pairs of end stiles. I used to use a router jig for this but finding a bit that correctly fits the plywood is a pain as is having to make double cuts with a smaller bit about 4 time more time-consuming and still not the same consistency and accuracy of the radial arm saw.

[@NewTestamentDoc]

My grandfather used his for decades instead of a miter saw... he found the Delta Radial Saw he used to be all he needed along with a table saw and hand tools...

[@vince8723]

i like them too but i find it hard and slow to change the angles.

[@toonybrain]

A RAS is so versatile and takes up less space. Out goes the table saw, as well.

[@samTollefson]

@@toonybrain I do not use the RAS for ripping wood. The last time I did, a piece shot past my right ear and made a hole in the fiberglass garage door. Please don't use one for ripping. You will need a table saw anyway; use that.

[@John3.3]

That sounds like a top tip ,negative rake cutting disc, I like the idea of a mitre gauge choice is king if you have the space.

[@its_marc]

By far my most used tool. I’ve a 12” corded one permanently set up and a 8” battery one for use on my pick up or elsewhere outside the workshop.

[@AdamSmith-po5pd]

Same here! A modern day necessity

[@jonassink]

I don't do nearly as much woodworking as I used to, but I ditched mine and haven't looked back. The combination of table saw and battery powered circ saw is just so much faster and space efficient. I haven't missed it at all.

[@devinbraun1852]

For the wood working shop specifically, I think the table saw solution could work fine. I do a lot of general carpentry and renovation work, so I’m not getting rid of the miter saw anytime soon. However, I use mine off a portable stand, not a large permanent fixture station.

[@TheRomanpolan]

Not to mention that it is great for cutting aluminium too 🙂

[@CredibleHulk10]

While I hate that the company wouldn't treat the average customer with this type of respect, I am immensely grateful that reputable channels who do receive such deference are willing to share their experience and pass along a bit of their goodwill to us. Thanks, chief. 👌🏻

[@lewiskelly14]

They treated you nice because of KZbin. If I reported that issue I wouldn't get a personal visit.

[@xX88B88Xx]

lol no sh*t Sherlock 😂

[@EmArgh]

Lol exactly. The positive is that at least he's raised it so maybe if there is an issue, it can be resolved

[@ElCidPhysics90]

Ikr

[@clutteredchicagogarage2720]

I mostly use my miter saw for cross-cutting lumber for framing. I built a big tree house for my daughter last summer, and I used the miter saw extensively for both 90 degree cuts and also for angled cuts when I was cutting the ends of my rafters. I'm a hobbyist not a pro. I don't think it's feasible or safe to cross-cut a 10 foot (~305cm) 2x4 with a cross-cut sled. The other option is to use a circular saw, which I also use extensively. However, I've learned that knots and other imperfections in lumber can often lead to the edges of framing lumber being a bit uneven, and then when I quickly try to use a circular saw and a speed square to make a perpendicular cut, the uneven surface of the lumber results in my square not actually resting parallel to the center line of the lumber, which means that my cuts don't end up at 90 degrees. I don't own a jointer, and I'm not going to create a 10 foot sled to be able to square the faces of every 2x4 stud (or 2x6 or larger piece) on my table saw. I'm not going to plane the surfaces every single time with a hand plane, although I have done this at times when I needed to square some stock that was for something like a small makeshift work bench/table. Anyway, since my miter saw has a long fence, I generally find that if a stud has a couple uneven surface bumps, resting it against the long fence of the miter saw results in the center line of a stud being closer to parallel with the fence than if I use, for example, a speed square as a saw guide for my circular saw. Therefore, I've found that with lumber that isn't perfectly square with flat edges, I get better results cross-cutting with my miter saw vs a circular saw. My miter saw is NOT a sliding miter saw. It's a small and cheap chop-style miter saw that cannot cross cut anything bigger than a 2x4. When I need to cross-cut something bigger like a 2x12, I use a circular saw, and I will make thin lines with a pencil and speed square against both faces of the lumber to make sure that surface imperfections in the lumber do not result in my speed square sitting out-of-square with the face of the lumber before I make a cross cut. Since my miter saw is small and cheap, I can store it inside a cabinet, and I generally take it outside to my garden to make cuts. I still hook it up to a shop vac + cyclone dust separator outside on a portable folding table, but using it outside reduces dust in my garage.

[@SegoMan]

All tools have a specific + & - rating, that's why you need so many of them 😂😂

[@ianvicedomini2648]

In terms of space, It's always worth parting with tools that hardly get used especially when you need the space for big projects. Great video Keith

[@allanblount4956]

Yep and for me it's a radialarm saw, but sentimental value. Soooo it'll set in backroom for ever.🤔

[@BusbyBiscuits]

There is really no need to be without a mitre saw even with out the full station. You said it yourself, they're mostly set up for job-site use, so just get a jobsite frame and some rollers and whenever you need it for a lot of cutting you can unfold it and crack on.

[@jscook54]

The main complaint I have of the miter saw is the horrible dust collection. And Also it is the loudest machine I have and that includes the router! I’ll be interested in seeing how your new set up works out.

[@oliverreedslovechild]

There're some good solutions for dust collection KZbin. One of the best I've seen was on Patriot DIY: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5zddIh8ZZemaMksi=-ndKQFShUo_jljtD

[@Jer_Schmidt]

It's so rare to see someone analyzing whether they actually need something they own, and getting rid of it when they determine they don't. Usually it's just more and more consumption, more shiny objects, especially when it comes to what people show off to the internet. So this is really refreshing to see!

[@RagnBoneBrown]

Thank you Jer!

[@msk3905]

I see other videos about getting rid of their miter saw but as someone who does a LOT of DIY projects I will never get rid of mine. I find it invaluable and use as much if not more than any other tool. Like you I purchased a high quality miter gauge with an extendable fence but it will never do what my miter does. I actually just used it to trim out our new front door.

[@billmactiernan6304]

First: I want to say that it is so nice to see someone actually use a guard over the top of the blade of the table saw. You obviously value your fingers more than almost everyone else who makes videos using a table saw. Now for my comment: If you really want to save space in a small shop, get rid of the table saw also. Both tools can be replaced by a radial arm saw. A properly set up (10 inch) radial arm saw can rip and crosscut just as accurately as a table saw. I know. I have been making high end furniture for forty years using a radial arm saw. The advantage of the radial arm saw is that it can be up against a wall. It only requires clearance to the left and right. Compare that to the table saw which has to be in the middle of the shop because it requires 360 degrees of clearance.

[@Arariel3]

I kept a miter saw around for years in the garage. Most of what I used it for was those times when I needed a bunch of rough and ready angled cuts. For one or two cuts I almost always just used a handsaw and left the powered saw in the garage. Last time I pulled out my miter saw was when my wife asked for a gate for our deck. I pulled out the cord and saw, gathered my wood, and plans. About halfway through the project the poor old saw finally died. I spent a couple of hours tinkering on it, but never could get it back to life. I finally ditched the idea and built the whole gate with a handsaw. Bet nobody noticed the difference.

[@p_mouse8676]

Interesting how people can have their own personal ideas about stuff. Which is fascinating and great to watch! For me the mitre saw would be absolutely one of the last tools I would ever get rid of. I use it so often. In fact, I replaced the table saw for just a regular circular saw instead and kept the mitre saw. I noticed that I use the table saw only for getting the wood smaller, which can be done one much more simple ways.

[@Dickie2702]

Question: How did you cut small parts safely and quickly?

[@p_mouse8676]

@@Dickie2702 sorry, I don't follow the question? Small parts can be done at the mitre saw if you clamp things right if that's what you mean?

[@RagnBoneBrown]

Rip cuts with a circular saw? Isn't that a bit awkward?

[@p_mouse8676]

@@RagnBoneBrown as long as you have a proper guide, it's fine.

[@Dickie2702]

@p_mouse8676 Table saw quicker, safer, more accurate.

[@jcklop]

Just found your channel and appreciate your candor and perspective. I have also found TTI product managers invested into customer feedback. Design defects can cause accuracy issues. Sometimes we can improvise and overcome them, but we should not have to, especially with premium brands. Accuracy at any stop detent should be reluable. Few mitersaws are accurate during compound cuts when having to lock, or tighten the miter scale in place with a clamping mechanism. Also, slop in bearings, or flex in axels the bearings ride on introduce the potential for error. Experiene with stain grade hardwood crown molding is a huge eye opener, as errors from tool slop are expensive! That said, I still use my miter saw, but constantly check its potential for error. Perhaps a setup on wheels will offer you the flexibility to maximize your space! It works for me, just make sure the mitersaw table/base is coplanar with any support used. I certainly appreciate your sharing like this, it's increadibly generous and affods us the opportunity to learn and improve our skills. Finally, I find that sliding compound miter saws all have the potential to introduce error, more than a solid nonsliding compound miter saw. This is why I don't own a sliding one yet. Taking the time to test fit, rather than measure is not as fast, but usually produces better results for me.

[@michaelkistner6286]

This may be completely off the rails, but did you consider investing in better blades for your mitre saw? This becomes critical when you have them sharpened. A cheap saw with a good blade will outperform a high end saw with a cheap blade. I run tenryu on my 12" bosch glide and get good consistent results. I have them sharpened by an outfit that uses a cnc grinder to maintain the original geometry of the teeth. That said, a mitre saw isn't designed to give the same cut quality as a cabinet saw. Expecting a $500 tool to perform like a $3000 one is a mistake.

[@Dubious.Bovine]

Bit late to the party but I've just gone through similar in my garage shop. Having a massive mitre saw station was brilliant but since moving to a bench that I can move that doubles as outfeed for the table saw, the space feels so much more usable.

[@BischBaschBosch]

Alright Keith. I've been thinking about doing the same. Realised last time I cleared mine off that the last time I used it was to chop up scraps! Mitre saws just aren't accurate and/or consistent enough for the furniture I'm doing, so it sits there "Just in case"🤷‍♂️ Think I'll long loan it to father in law. I do all my mitres on my over-routing machine and all my square cuts on the table or plunge saw. I did test a Festool kapex but there is still a little flex at full extension. It's still inconsistent with bevel or compound cuts and, still leaves burns on mitres and bevels. Where there's burns, there'll be imperfect joints. I can't actually remember any if the old joinery shops I worked in having mitre saws. Radial arm saws rather than mitre saws if they did. Panel saws for mitres. Still think mitre saws are awesome but they have their limits.👍

[@contessa.adella]

If you just need 90 deg cuts in long stock or small boards you can make a circular saw cross cut station with angle iron rails and a base board. Bonus..it is portable for outside work. You can build it to take anything from studwork timber to four foot sheet. You can add a removable 45 deg guide bar for mitre joins too. It costs ten bucks (plus saw) and you can knock it out in an afternoon!

[@vaughngaminghd]

I've had a similar experience with my 12 inch miter saw: for most projects it takes too much time to set up, and I can get more accurate miter cuts from my table saw with a sled. It just takes up too much room in my small workshop to keep it set up all the time. For crown molding or worksite it makes more sense.

[@danbgt]

Mitre saws are a blessing and a curse. I’m just a hobby woodworker and all around tinkerer. I use my Ryobi mitre saw and my DeWalt job site saw for everything. From time to time I find myself needing to cut aluminum, plastic, PVC and various other things besides wood. I always cut these things with the mitre saw. I have a setup where the mitre saw is usually hanging on a wall and I can easily set it between two benches when I need it. Otherwise it is not in my way.

[@VORONM]

Hi! Absolutely the right decision. The end saw is a construction tool, not a carpentry. I've never used a butt saw in my workshop and I'm not going to do that any further. Good luck to you, colleague!

[@ianwatkins3002]

I got rid of my mitre saw (very small workshop) and now use a home made crosscut sled on my DeWalt saw. Works for me. This crosscut sled was thrown together with scraps I had lying around. A v2 will become a necessity soon.

[@Dickie2702]

You won't miss the mitre saw I'm sure. I have a similar mitre guayecand they are beautifully made but I don't use that either. Two crosscut sleds one with an adjus5able fence to cut angles and that's it. One thing I have always loved about sleds is knob on accuracy and also their ability to cut small pieces safely.

[@Domitella]

When I started woodworking I often read that the first tool you should get is a mitre saw. I've never felt the need for one though. I can see the need if you're doing a lot of framing, but I find the table saw, with sleds, do everything I need. Especially as, like most people, I have to deal with limited space.

[@billymurphy3]

I feel this definitely used to be common wisdom. Maybe it’s also ease of use and safety? Either way, I agree. I had thought of avoiding a table saw for a long time. When I finally got one, it’s one of the tools of top priority and gets used the most.

[@lazygardens]

A miter saw was my first power tool, but my first project was installing hardwood flooring. And framing style repairs, trim and other things needing that sort of cuts. I haven't done much "panel" work like cabinets and tables.

[@allanblount4956]

And my bracket (really old) they said depending on your type of 🪵 working, tablesaw or bandsaw as your first shop power tool.

[@humansnotai4912]

I knocked a 1.5m2 hole in the wall complete with a pre-stressed lintel and mounted the mitre on a hinged bench with electrically operated gas struts struts and fold down steel box section legs that lock into concrete anchors, then built a brick extension on the outside with dust extraction to house the whole thing. Now my mitre folds flush into the wall when I'm not using it with the press of a button. Also have extra storage in the extension for other tools.

[@raminybhatti5740]

Mitre saw for doing skirting is a godsend. I'd go crazy without one. Table saw is for me something that's expendable; a circular / track / plunge saw is the natural alternative.

[@Stelios.Posantzis]

Very useful points made. A follow up on what can be done to overcome these issues and how much they can be addressed would surely be appreciated by many mitre-saw owners. A lot of mitre-saws are used for making quick the cutting of timber for various constructions that involve complicated angles and at the same time speed of execution is paramount. Diyers do not often have a lot of time to devote to projects where the main objective when embarking on them is to save money. Usually this involves projects such as timber frame buildings. One such diy project can justify the cost of procuring a mitre-saw. While the tools presented look awesome, many people simply will not rush to ditch their mitre-saw and then spend money to replace them with an alternative as, for many, a mitre-saw is probably considered as a lifetime purchase.

[@Thomas-pq2qz]

Haven’t seen you for ages(been in dock a lot)and am surprised at the grey hair. Don’t despair and keep up the good work.

[@marcusbrammertz3792]

Totally agreed! I didn´t use my Mitre Saw for over two years now. In the meantime it´s buried under some table. If I ever would have to saw 150 roof battens or an angle cutting orgy (99% is 90 degrees), it will see light again. But everything else is done more efficiant and faster by any table saw sled or table saw rolling desk.

[@stephenpike3147]

Interesting how you set up your workshop. I have both my mitre and circular saws on mobile stands and use a mobile supports and a wheeled vac. This means I can take max advantage of space in workshop, work across diagonals for long pieces. Building in always restricts your options. Ditto my drill stand is free to move on the fixed work bench. I have a low level movable large assembly table that also serves as a build stand saving my back! A couple of workmates also come in invaluable. Flexibility is an absolute boon as you never know what jobs/ projects you might have in the future. I can also clear everything to the sides to use the screeded (level) floor for assembling larger items. I would not change what I have got and the mitre (chop) saw is absolutely square, a brilliant tool. Good luck with the new layout, hope it serves you well. Best regards Stephen

[@vince8723]

im a bit confused. Why would you have a battery powered miter saw if it's only going to be used in the shop? especially with a plug that is conveniently there. its like using an electric golf cart to do to Cosco. why have the miter table higher than the table saw or other tables. if the workplace is this limited your miter saw should be movable. how could you even cut moldings? unless you make a slot in the wall next to the garage door as an in feed for materials. also I could understand a problem with a router and saw dust, especially with MDF but whats the big problem with a chop saw? it's like working at a fish processing plant and not wanting to smell like fish.

[@jim99ful]

madness, you said it yourself ' the quickest and easiest way' dont sell it, keep it for a bit. love your braveness and that miter gauge looks amazing, great video- good luck.

[@stephenwright8257]

Dewalt 12 inch dual bevel sliding saw. Works great. Only other saw to consider imho is a Bosch but it’s not as robust.

[@bdm1000]

I did the opposite. Instead of a cabinet saw, my setup includes a Sawstop Compact Table Saw, routers, miter saw and track saw. I just don't think I could give up a miter saw, but I certainly don't need a cabinet saw. Everyone's workflow and requirements are different, however. I hope Milwaukee makes your miter saw right. It is surprising that they came to inspect it. That's impressive.

[@BazzMann48]

I put my mitre saw onto two timber rails. This either sits on my bench or trestles so that I can move around my space for convenience or leave it in one area. I built my own tailored trestles. I, too, use a sled on the table saw, relying on the mitre to break down long boards that can be finished on the table saw. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

[@dcmsr5141]

As a new guy to woodworking and the limited skillset I possess, I am of the minidset that a tool is only as good as it's user. I find the Miter saw a good piece of kit, but as a person working alone, the tablesaw is king. That is why I saved and purchased a contractor tablesaw, (space). My $.02 cents.

[@beksinski]

Every shop has an optimum balance of tools and space organization. It's not so much that mitre saws are good or bad. But its definitely worth keeping ones space efficient and clearing out gear that isn't useful. I need it because I make miter cuts that are larger than my jobsite table saw can handle.

[@Raul28153]

some years ago I got a Bosch 12" glide. I bought it because I was building a Garage / Recreational Deck and needed the bigger cut and needed to use it in the drive way. . I haven't used it since. I have an Austrian sliding table saw and that's my go to.

[@gtcam723]

I’ve decided to build a table on wheels for mine and likely build a flip table arrangement so it can be a bench most of the time with the saw open downward underneath and then just rotate 90° up into position

[@dbnoho]

I didn’t use my miter saw for years. Then I had to redo baseboards in my house. And that baby was the absolute most important tool I owned. Pulled it out in the driveway so I didn’t care about dust and it made life way easier than my table saw could have.

[@bluepeakwoodworks]

Good thoughts. I've considered doing the same as I have multiple ways of doing cross cuts. However, my experience with my miter saw has been difficult. My Makita 12" miter saw cuts very accurately and leaves a clean glue-ready cut. Still pondering.

[@BjornV78]

0:18 i always thought that your air compressor was outside in a separed cabin, but then realised, that was the case in your previous workshop. A few weeks ago i saw a video here on KZbin, where people forgot to drain the condensation water from there compressor, and where after a few years the tank exploded due rust from the inside out that weaken the tank. So a safety tip, remove the condensation water at least once a week, and even better, on daily basis. Grtz

[@TimSavage-drummer]

Moved house 18months ago and in the new workshop I have more space than before but have yet to even setup the mitre saw. Turned my old miter saw stand into a mobile shelving cabnet.

[@jonlanier_]

I have a miter saw, that rarely gets used. It is for travel. At home, I have a table saw. It does everything I need for any cross-cut.

[@malcolmthorman9126]

Doing building restoration and rarely finding a right angle, I found a mitre saw with a laser guide absolutely invaluable. I had a cheap 10" SIP with laser for years, ( put a decent blade in it) and finally replaced it with the big milwaukee (12"), but that doesnt have a laser, has an angle guide instead, not nearly so useful. I wouldnt get rid of it as a workshop machine though.

[@christopheranderson2769]

Tldr; i built a 2×3 table out of scrap wood and attached my miter to it. When i need the saw i just pick the table up and put it on any flat surface and when I dont I just leave it anywhere thats convenient. It also works well on the ground or on a trucks tail gate.

[@chipsterb4946]

Interesting video. I finished my first cross cut sled for my table saw yesterday and immediately started asking myself “Why do I need the miter saw?” The dust production is horrible. My Dewalt doesn’t seem to hold accuracy either. Small parts can be cut much more safely on the sled, and I can make a cut up to 22” on the sled as well. However, the miter saw was the first large power tool I bought…

[@terryswinhoe8118]

It’s not the mitre saw. It’s the cathedrals that people build around them that become restrictive. Folk just get carried away Keith

[@StrawbyteWorkshop]

I enjoyed seeing the mitre saw from your perspective. I share many of the same thoughts about the usefulness of a permanent set-up, but the infeed on my table saw is too short to allow me to transition to using solely a sled or gauge. So I'm sticking with it for now. Excited and looking forward to the next video. K.

[@stevebettany8778]

Just got the identical mitre this week after following Hew and Awe and I’m really impressed most of the sleds can go. Got to laugh at fractions of a millimetre and yet we get 10.5 inches which is a measurement only used at Rolls Royce.

[@brucewelty7684]

First mistake was not getting a Radial Arm Saw. That pretty much eliminates both the mitre station and the dangerous table saw!

[@kookyflukes9749]

I've followed your channel since the start but I've been a bit distant from KZbin lately. I must say tho your presentation skills have come a long way since the last time I watched. Very clear and interesting content with your reasoning for decisions made. Well done on how you've built your channel 👏👏

[@RagnBoneBrown]

I appreciate that!

[@accessfm]

This will definitely have to be a revisit video in the future to see how it goes. I do like the way that your workshop has evolved from your hay days in the small shed to where you are now. I have to say that I'm very impressed with you taking this rather large step in your workshop layout and I'm intrigued to see how you get on with projects in the future while not having the mitre saw. Unfortunately in my little workshop I don't have the room as yet for a table saw so I am stuck with the mitre saw for projects and I also noticed that on my saw the littlest bump does indeed throw out the accuracy of cuts.

[@Ted_James]

Nice discussion! I haven't used my mitre saw since I bought my table saw two years ago. I've been trying to sell it, but it seems nobody else wants it...

[@geoffreycoan]

If you’ve got a large table saw with space to have a fence and flap stops, I can see it makes absolutely perfect sense to reuse that tool and ditch the mitre saw. I’ve only got a basic Evolution Rage 3 mitre saw which suffers from poor dust collection and never seeming to be able to get absolutely perfect cuts. Its good for rough cutting but since I got the table saw I’ve found I’ve hardly used it and I wasn’t fancying having to build a massive cathedral of space either side to achieve adequate cut areas. Your video has given me more food for thought about whether I do need my mitre saw or not 😮

[@Techreux]

.. Spot on with the "junk collector surface".. and the whole reason I refused all these years to build a station.. it would have taken up too much space on my last shop floor.. and my new shop structure will be even smaller. Yes, miter saws are not as accurate as the table saw.. but it often takes too much time to set up.. and fiddly.. on the table saw.. and the Miter saw really exists to make quick, semi-accurate crosscuts.. in my case, it does as much as 25% of the cuts on each job that I do, as thin stock is so much easier to do on a crosscut setup.. and you don't have that much angle RUNOUT on a short piece of stock, anyway, in my experience - that can't be easily dealt with. Where I think most people started to get into trouble was when everyone decided that they needed 12" W crosscuts - using a Sliding Miter saw - THAT can potentially give you all sorts of misery! I do also agree with you that dust (even with the nearly 40 different solutions I have seen) output from that type of saw is suffocating! Great Video.

[@daviddejong187]

I rarely use my Miter saw. A nicely set up table saw does a much better job for my projects. Some of these after market miter gauges for the table saw are the real deal. I have one but not the same one you have but similar and absolutely love it. With it I can make repeatable and dead on accurate cuts.

[@d3lsl0w]

I've also removed the station, but placed the miter saw on a moveable stand. I wheel it out of the way most of the time and bust it out and use it outside if I need to use it.

[@axemastersinc3269]

How are you going to cut 6" crown?

[@imqqmi]

I know what you mean. I've screwed my mitre saw to a piece of plywood and clamp it to whatever I got free space on and get cutting! There's lots of other ways to add stop blocks than have a mitre station so just get creative and make it work for you. There could be a 3D printable adapter you can have made to improve dust collection on your mitre saw. Still wearing a face mask is probably healthier rather than relying on dust collection and air filtering.

[@Aaron-nj4ou]

Mitre saw would probably be the last tool I would part with as a DIY enthusiast. I could probably work around not having it as a woodworker but I wouldn’t like it. You do have a much better table saw than I do, I gave up my cabinet saw to save some space.

[@markjarman7819]

I had two Chinese dewalts both do the same. Now sold and happy with the German brand I bought. Perfect cuts every time.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

The mitre saw is my most used tool. I feel its much safer than the tablesaw and I can get most projects done with the mitre saw. I used to have a Metabo mitre saw which was great. Now I have the Kapex and its also great but not perfect either. I wish they would offer mitre saws that have no base. You would just screw them onto your workbench.

[@adeh503]

Hahaha spot on about the crap that ends up on any bench space in a workshop

[@yn7751]

Space is one thing i miss when im in the UK, in the US if anything we got too much spare space, makes it a pain to clean!

[@danielyoxall575]

Amazing timing! My EnjoyWood fence arrived today! 😂 Another great vid, always look forward to the posts.

[@lawman1965]

I got rid of mine, and my space is far smaller than yours (a single car garage). I tried to get along without one, but ended up buying a Festool Kapex and I made a mitre saw cart with flip up wings. I have two workbenches, a table saw, full size planer/thicknesser, 3 dust extractors, router table and mitre saw cart in my garage. Yeah, it's tight, but it works. I found messing around with cross cut sleds etc too much of a faff!

[@kathrynnewton8721]

Very interesting thank you! I hope you didn’t pay too much for the fence with all the adjustments you had to do! And you informed them of its flaws😅

[@MitchHeil]

My miter saw has been in my garden shed for 2 years. I get much more accurate cuts on my table saw. The only thing I would use my miter saw if I had space would be to rough cut to length, but in that case I can just use a circular saw or track saw on panel stock if needed.

[@BlownF150]

It's why I don't use a sliding miter saw as my primary trim carpentry saw. My DeWalt 12" double-bevel saw has always been extremely accurate and consistent even as a saw that moved from jobsite to jobsite. The DW716 has been a standard of professional production trim carpenters for a long time. I have a 10" single bevel DeWalt miter saw for shoe mold and a cordless 7-1/4" slide miter as a general purpose saw for dimensional lumber, LVP, and cutting aluminum extrusions.

[@elpresidente8730]

My workshop is half of a single car garage. I have a Makita mitre saw and a Dewalt job site table saw both on rolling cabinets. I wheel the the mitre saw outside because the dust collection is lousy but its very weather dependant. I have the hongdui mitre gauge and use a 600mm length of 8020 aluminium extrusion as a fence. I'm thinking about making a track saw jig to replace it. If it works I may ditch the mitre saw and re-purpose the space.

[@GentlemensWatchServices]

I reached the same conclusion a little while ago. An inaccurate space hog that doesn't do anything that can't be done by other tools. But it was my first wood working power tool and I used it loads for years. It's not a bad tool, just outgrown it.

[@Jhongerage]

My mitre saw is my most used tool, but I have it on a portable stand, a mitre station would just waste space and get covered in junk. A mitre saw just feels so much safer than a table saw. I wouldn't fancy cutting down 2 by 6es on the table saw, and Notching out for half laps on long or rough stock is so easy on the mitre saw.

[@RonKillian]

There are miter saws that have forward rails, great dust collection and are highly accurate :)

[@15iamawsome]

The author does like to from scratch, kzbin.infoUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.

[@Ste2023]

Oh piss off

[@mastermaker666]

For anything less than a 2"x4" I always found that the non-sliding miter-saw was a better option, basically just the single axle in bearings hinge, they have to have a much larger blade to even get close to the capacity of the sliding miter but most people not in construction rarely if ever have a need for cutting anything larger than a 2"x4", they are much simpler, with fewer moving parts and WAY more rigid....

[@fishcakes2]

I totally agree , I’m a kitchen fitter and now run a small team of fitters and this is the type of mitre saw I use and recommend, it doesn’t get knocked about in the van and paired up with a good rail saw it meets all my needs

[@donny_bahama]

Nice to see a video with this “against-the-grain” viewpoint. Personally, I’ve never been a fan of miter saws in the workshop. They’re handy on a mobile cart for worksite/remodeling jobs, but for shop purposes, I think a radial arm saw is a *much* better way to go. With a little tuneup, it’s just as accurate as a miter saw but with a greater capacity. And you can add a laser for ease of cut alignment. If you’re willing to get creative and design a new blade guard, you can install a 12” - or larger - blade (within the saw’s physical limitations, of course) for greater capacity in the Z axis. You can even (again, with some creativity) make a custom mounting plate to turn your radial arm saw into an overhead router table or a planer (using a hand planer and making multiple passes. I haven’t done either of those yet but they’re on my to-do list) which make it incredibly versatile. On top of all that, you can even make cuts that don’t go all the way through a board - which you would otherwise have to do on a table saw. I find that I strongly prefer my table saw for cutting panels ( wish I had a panel saw for sheet goods, though) but there are lots of times where it’s easier to work with a fixed workpiece. It’s a pretty trivial task to add flip-up side wings to support longer stock (and stop blocks? no problem!) - but then I can flip them back down for storage and it has a much smaller footprint than a miter saw station. (The footprint, front-to-back, isn’t nearly as deep as some miter saws/stations, too.) Radial arm saws got a bad rap and fell out of favor because they’re unsafe for rip cuts (although you can find videos that dispute that) but I use my table saw for ripping, anyway. If all that isn’t enough for you, there’s the price. You can buy an old radial arm saw for a fraction of the price of a sliding compound miter saw. It’s a no-brainer to me.

[@phily-ue6et]

Get yourself a makita ls. Fully adjustable, dual support rails to reduce the overall depth and a 5" depth of cut.

[@davidwarren4569]

It really comes down to space, all criticism of the compound mitre saw aside. Horses for courses. I have a compound mitre saw and a sliding table saw. Each type of cut on the table saw has a longer setup time, where as a mitre saw for smaller cuts including angles takes a fraction of the time. Larger cuts on sliding table is worth the time. My dewalt compound saw is very accurate and very adjustable, however a non sliding compound saw would better suit you.

[@snort455]

I havent used mine in years. I do loan it. All hand tools for me these days. No regrets.

[@kemron94]

I watched dad work with all this stuff as I grew up 60 years ago.

[@מעייןהמלבלבתחייםםםם]

Good video!!! It's the dynamic of the shop and your progress

[@alindorindicu3732]

Hi! I have a LS1219L from Makita. I don't think i need it that much, but it's just such a nice machine to look at and more! My garage seems much bigger, but more so, forward rails do help a lot!

[@torque9889]

That was some quality acting there Keith, believed every minute of it

[@AppalachianLife]

My mitre saw lives on a shelf in the shed. I only use it outside for construction/framing projects. My table saw with sleds do all of the cutting in the shop.

[@karenmitchell6814]

I bought the same mitre gauge based on reviews from Denis over at Hooked On Wood. I love it!

[@mandyleeson1]

Interested to see how you go Keith, as I've been having the same thoughts re: space. Loved the theatrics😂

[@christopherpardell4418]

I could not find any manufacturer’s mitre saw that was reliably accurate. Just your hand pulling the saw can pull it off the line. I opted for a something a lot more robust. I bought a 1953 DeWalt Radial Arm Saw. A 500 lb monster of a machine with 3 horsepower, a 14” blade, and bulletproof accuracy. Moreover, the Radial can handle all my ripping needs up to 24” wide. And all my cross cutting up to 24” wide. Add to that that it is safer, because it CAN’T kickback when cross cutting, and in ripping, if it kicks back it kicks the board to the left or the right and not at me. It takes up less space than a table saw, and has pretty much replaced the table saw for everything short of ripping up large sheet stock, and these days I tend to use a track saw for that, anyway. It cuts perfect miters, bevels, and compound cuts, and I can also use it to cut horizontal dados and rabbets along long boards, not to mention very unusual cuts where I am pulling the blade thru the stock at an angle to cut a large U shaped curve. All in all the most versatile power tool in the shop. My table saw sits largely unused, pushed up against a wall. And I have the radial outside, ( under a cover ) where I can cross cut or rip 40 foot long lumber if needs be. And folks who opt for an old 40’s or 50’ DeWalt with the smaller arbor find it can sport a shaper head, a jigsaw attachment, A jointer attachment and even a planing head for planing stock wider or taller than will fit in a standard planer.

[@frbrable]

It's funny that the miter saw is a tool that beginners think they need most. But it's not (unless you are going to be doing a lot of finish carpentry). I barely use mine. Instead I use a handheld circular saw for carpentry, and my table saw for more precise work.

[@vladcontact]

Im a small woodworker, and my one lives on a shelf in a shed. I don't remember when i last time I used it. I think soon it will make its way onto eBay 😂

[@ra4yu]

you should try and have every bench top and tool at the same height, i have a rather small workshop and it really adds a lot more space when everything is an out feed table

[@andyc972]

I'll be interested to see how you get on Keith, I can't imagine not having my Mitre saw(s) but then I don't have a big accurate table saw either. My main Mitre saw is an old Elektra sliding saw I bought around 20 years ago, I think it's similar to your old Axminster one, It's a good solid saw with an induction motor but is starting to show it's age ( a bit like me ) ! As always I loved your re-enactments, looking forward to the rest of the reorganisation ! That Hongdul mitre gauge looks superb, and I'm glad you managed to get the fence re-scaled to your requirements. Nice to hear Milwaukee are listening too !

[@funfreq9282]

Accurate and Miter Saw are usually words you don't see together, that said I hear the Fusstool Kpex is pretty accurate! I wouldn't know because they are too damn expensive.

[@Size15s]

This is fantastic! You are one of a small number of high quality YT makers I follow, each of whom have different workshops, different needs and different tools. And yet they each produce quality projects and informative videos. This is brilliant for getting a diversity of perspective and experience! Will your experiment work? You'll share your experience and let us know - and in doing so we viewers have the opportunity to learn from you, pick aspects that we think will work for us, and hopefully do more ourselves. Right! I need to check my mitresaw for square! Thanks!

[@monkeyboysworkshop]

Nice one Keith! You’ve got rid of your mitre saw for the exact same reason I did mate! Although I’ve still got my “mitre station” that needs to be sorted out 🤦🏻‍♂️😂

[@garykilvington9417]

Get a festool kapex mate dust extraction excellent don’t need much room either accuracy wise can’t be beat fantastic piece of kit

[@Hibbo89]

Interesting. I’ll be purchasing my first big table saw very soon and this was one of the things I have been wondering if I could get rid of the mitre saw. I too find it far too in accurate so rather than splash out for a festool I think I will retire the mitre saw and just use the table saw with some sleds like you are. Very keen to see the follow up video on this!

[@michaelgrandinetti3170]

Hi, good video. My thoughts as you move forward. All of us need to do what is right for our shops. For me, the miter saw is very important & my Makita 40 volt 8-1/4" glide is extremely accurate. Again, it depends on your need & usage. The only thing that I will say is that we ALL have more space than we really need.........we just have work with different shop configurations until we have maximized our space. I think every shop can find space and find value with a high quality miter saw.