Grand Seiko SBGJ249 - A Beautiful True GMT With A Striking Dial (Even By Grand Seiko Standards)

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In this video, I take a look at the SBGJ249, a stunning true GMT from a brand that is well known for dial finishing. For me, this is one of the best GMT watches under $10,000. What do you think of this Grand Seiko?
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[@WeibenWang]

To those concerned about the fit of the bracelet, a public service announcement and pro tip: Grand Seikos come with two half links, which are in fact more like 2/3 links. By mixing and matching half and full links, you can adjust by 1/3 link increments, or about 2mm. If you take out a half link and it's too small, and add one and it's too big, and conclude it won't fit, you're doing it wrong. Yes, it's fiddly, no, it's not on the fly, but you can get a good fit.

[@EndersFPS]

didn't know this

[@mad0uche]

I don't think 99% of people can afford this watch, I don't see why they would be concerned about the fitment of the bracelet.

[@WeibenWang]

Non sequitur much? People (like me, and I'm by no means the 1%) buy the watches, and if they couldn't get a good fit, now they can. At least 14 people so far care. My work is done.

[@sopapillas6398]

That's great, but my wrist (and many others) changes throughout the day where tool-free micro-adjustment is a huge value add. Taking links out any time I need to adjust is a pain in the ass, especially considering how annoying the pin/collar is. My Snowflake pins are extremely tight and I rather not scratch it, so I end up taking it to the watchmaker just to tighten it in the winter. Which again, is a pain in the ass.

[@inquisitorofthegodemperor8434]

If Patek owners can live with it, I'm sure everyone else can - most of the time GS get's so much critique and scrutiny because it isn't 'Swiss'

[@jamesdowling7409]

Purchased this watch in February. In my own use I’ve had no issue with the thickness. The sloped crystal makes it easy to slide under a dress cuff.

[@kimcoulter806]

Their dials are truly amazing. Have the SLGA009 Spring Drive for my wife and the 36000 HiBeats for me. My first GS’s in my collection and am very happy. Like Kevin always says… a watch / dial must make you want to look at it constantly. These pieces do exactly that.

[@GypsyMCHouston]

Just wanted to say “Thank you” for all your work and knowledge. You have been a great resource.

[@thomasgeremia2173]

Love listening to you Teddy. The sound of your voice and your way of describing watches is very relaxing to me. Keep up the great work.

[@mj-kx2kw]

i love this watch. definitely an eye catcher on my wrist. i was shocked when i bought this about the lack of talk about this watch.

[@ryansahs]

Couldn't agree more

[@AIRFORCEFREAK1]

I love when the watches you feature are you used.

[@kappasigmd41]

Bought this last year in Tokyo. Amazing, beautiful watch. Totally in love.

[@MrKkramme]

Another great video by Teddy - especially acknowledging the genuine influence of the surrounding nature at the Shizukuishi Studio - which I visited last week and was astonished by the influence!

[@DrDarkStar68]

As a ‘dial man’ myself (proud owner of SBGH269) I can stay that GS crushes it with this dial- simply stunning!

[@Aday442]

Great looking watch. Thanks Teddy.

[@Whitehotlova]

I had both the winter version and this version in my hand about 2 months ago. My AD was pushing me to buy this GMT but I ended up going with the SBGA415 because of the slimmer profile and the titanium. The GMT here not only is kinda thick but very heavy

[@brianm3160]

Hi Teddy👋 Love your videos!

[@link6032]

Grand Seiko finishing and dials with spring drive is simply fantastic. This watch looks fantastic, my preference would be spring drive though

[@jacktits2836]

That and the cherry blossom are stunners just beautiful cant say enough

[@bailey5726]

Commendable video teddy

[@blurryn]

Amazing watch! holding my SBGM249 " GS WAKO lavender GMT" while watching this video

[@jonathanmiles897]

Grand Seiko dials look good in photographs and videos but when you see them on your wrist, they are just beautiful works of art. The case finishing is second to none. I prefer the hi beat to many of the spring drive watches as I do not like the power reserve indicator on the front. Something GS are addressing with their latest spring drive movements.

[@sushimshah2896]

Yeah, I hate that big ass power reserve indicator! They even snuck it into their top-of-the-line one at W&W (saw it on Watchfinder's video)

[@MichaelBubica]

Incredible shooting

[@antonylaing2499]

The SBGM003 was launched in 2004 and at this point, it feels like the same old watch with a different dial texture. Sure, there's a bracelet, sapphire case back and high beat, but GS has done those updates before, having managed to fit two different bracelet designs to this case (each under different model references) and the high beat movement, which is itself an iterative update on the movement used by the '003 - in all the ways that matter it's the same watch. The case thickeness is due to the thickness of the movement, as the first wave of the modern GS revival, focused upon reliability and longevity which is easier to achieve with a thicker calibre.

[@Mo_Mo_]

Hey, Teddy love your videos. I'd love to see you review a Minase watch, great dials and materials in general. They're polishing is beautiful and might be the best I've ever seen 😊.

[@ElK1LLA]

I have one and I ❤ it!!!

[@TradezOnTap]

I’m a proud owner of this watch and I absolutely love it. Yes the lack of water resistance can be a tad annoying, but the look of the watch & the finishing more than makes up for it. When I wear it, I always find myself looking at the dial in the light. Some angles it’s a deep blue, some angles it’s more greyish. This is the only watch in my collection that I get stopped in public and asked what watch it is. Truly a fantastic piece for the money and by far my favorite watch I own.

[@lenq9561]

The biggest issue with any GS is they look GOOD in pictures... but when you see them in person they are out of this world BEAUTIFUL. This model / the winter four seasons are my coin toss for next purchase. Both outstanding!

[@TradezOnTap]

@@lenq9561 If you can shake out 10k for a snowflake, do that. They are beautiful

[@breakandrun70]

G/S may be my next watch to add to my Seiko collection. This watch has a very attractive face And I would prefer it be about 12mm. But I really do like it, would have to see up close. Thanks for the great video. Stay safe.

[@asadpetkar3921]

Stunning dial!

[@jobsitesecuritysystems1074]

Great video

[@normang663]

Went to a local AD looking for sbgw231. Saw this, tried it on. It was friggin majestic. Bracelet was comfortable, too. Unfortunately too pricey for my budget (deservingly). If you’ve got the money, go for it.

[@astrayproductions]

2:28 bro that dial !

[@PhilZero]

A grand seiko video day is a good day

[@LinkeHarryB]

GS is a case study into excellent dials

[@davidcouzens6287]

I think it looks amazing.......

[@danielrs9214]

Love the dial and proportions, the only thing that I didn’t like when I saw it on the metal, is that some times the gmt numerals are hard to read.

[@balesjo]

It seems it hasn't been many years since Grand Seiko could only be found in their boutiques, and you didn't see many reviews of them or much written about the brand. What a difference in just a few years! Their watches are simply beautiful (even the Seiko lines are noted for having above average dials, Grand Seiko simply steps up their game). I also like that they are a bit under the radar compared to Rolex, and are actually available for sale at near the MSRP. I suspect Grand Seiko is going to keep moving up in the consciousnesses of the luxury watch buying public in the years to come.

[@MrLogistician]

Call me selfish....but I hope GS stays under the radar.

[@guillermoavendano73]

Hi Teddy, great fan here, you're my watch Sensei. Could you make a video for hybrid smartwatches?

[@vktravellog1242]

Finally a Grand Seiko video! I love the sho sho and hear about how they have to use several tons of force multiple times to get that dial texture from a mold that can take several years to make! Will we see an exclusive all Grand Seiko video with Mr Wonderful? On second thought that may be a very bad idea because I dont want GS to become too popular since I want to collect limited edition pieces and dont like competition 🤣

[@jonk3470]

Saw this in person and LOVED the dial. But I feel that GS is doing too many models with Hi-Beat instead of Spring Drive. I bought the SBGE269 Toji instead because of it. Fantastic technology in the movement, and still a striking dial.

[@akinigiri]

I want a GMT, and I was looking into GS. The biggest problem, as you mentioned, is the water resistance. If I travel, I want versatility. That's including the option to swim with it. Yes it is fun to bring multiple watches to your destination, but one watch that gets the job and the fun done would be great. The fewer the watches, the less I need to worry about safekeeping from loss and theft too.

[@s.beasley8926]

Perhaps the new Tudor Black Bay Pro would fit your desire for a GMT?

[@edkwon]

Plenty of sport GMTs with screw down crowns, external 24 hr bezels and 100m water resistance

[@kienling8786]

If you like GS and the hi-beat movement, check out the GMT variations using their 44GS uber-faceted cases like the SBGJ201 or SBGJ203. Stunning case finishing if not sober but by no means less impressive dials and 10 bar WR as opposed to the 3 bar on this.

[@Zotel_US]

Very pretty, I'm jonesing for a snowflake, but this one is tempting as well. Despite the lack or water resistance.

[@nickthequick]

Lovely watch with too many drawbacks for the price. I still wish you would make a video talking about the servicing of all these watches; intervals, pricing, must and must no etc.

[@tucsontim8841]

Gorgeous dial. I am more critical of the bracelet. At that price point, it should be far better. Bracelets are tricky to get right, but this looks like an afterthought.

[@seyosabovic472]

I loveee the scratches on this piece you’re showing!!

[@gmshadowtraders]

Lake Suwa baby!

[@watchtherapy1068]

Grand Seiko is taking center stage along rolex in recent years, so many you tubers are talking about GS, way more then the other brands other than rolex

[@Sams911]

After collecting 3 Rolex's in solid gold, two tone and stainless, and a Patek 5711 in rose gold, I decided to buy something totally different.... I just got this watch for a fraction of the price of the Swiss counterparts and I must confess, there is no compromise in quality... this watch is truly underpriced on many levels.. I wish they made a solid gold version .

[@boombee3317]

Damn could you give me one? 😩

[@anthonyrodrigobright6563]

love the random scratches on the inside lol

[@carllange3950]

Definitely a beautiful watch, but if I were to spend this much money, I would want to wear it. I find that although I like just looking at some of my watches, the ones that get worn have better legibility.

[@nathanlowran4526]

I went to my AD to get a White Birch and walked out with this instead, the dial... when it hits the light you can't look away.

[@ericgaisser1668]

Watch looks great but 14.1mm in thickness looks tall to me. My 42mm Explorer II (12.4mm thick) is my go to daily wearing watch. I have an Omega Planet Ocean 42mm (14.1mm thick) as well and notice the extra bulk when wearing this watch. I was lucky to buy my Explorer before the pricing boom. With that said I see a lot of watches reviewed that are thicker than my Rolex. The Rolex hype sucks but I can say there watches are really comfortable to wear.

[@2ryan]

I have a 249 and agree with Teddy on how well it wears. The bubble back and domed crystal really chip away at the thickness dimension. I found it wore better than my bb58. At least for me.

[@thachnguyen5836]

@@2ryan Yeah I have the same feeling @Eric Gaisser: I have a Rolex sub 124060 and it really float on my wrist. I guess it's because thee lug to lug distance. If GS give up the dome sapphire crystal and the sapphire case back it may have a much better thickness

[@xmagnusx3605]

the dial pattern is similar to high beat white birch, just horizontal and different colour.

[@charlesconnaughton7292]

grand seiko absolute class rolex every del boy wants one a spivs badge of i'm well off but as common as muck.

[@PierceMD]

I need those sub 39mm GS

[@Benjamin-gp3dl]

I’ve long wanted a GS but not a fan of the grey dial on this one. Though I’m a strong fan of GMT watches in the 42mm size.

[@ccengineer5902]

At first the thickness stood out a lot ('scuse the pun), but here 9:50 I was like woah. The dial looks simply striking on the wrist.

30m is deeper than most people scuba dive. Surely it is sufficient for everyday type of activity? Being a luxury watch I am sure that the water resistance is tested to more than that to guarantee 30m.

[@Tappat]

Can you please highlight watches that are 42mm or larger more often?

[@LightPink]

I'd buy this if I didn't have to save for retirement, especially since I'm going to uni in a different time zone and would like a GMT.

[@duncandixon6203]

If I had this watch, I would be staring at it under my loupe all day every day. It needs lume on the indices and on the hands, even if it's thin. Legibility of writing on the dial is not important to me as after wearing it for a week, you'll catch on quickly if not already. I do feel it needs to be 40mm as the porportions just seem to be a smidgen off in relation to itself.

[@vakuzar]

Saw it in person, but it did feel a little too busy

[@sarahgoldfarb913]

Hey Teddy, I want to hear about your family background and the history of the name Baldassarre.

[@jimb1283]

Omega Aqua Terra or Grand Seiko Heritage spring wind? I am older an am buying my first luxury watch with the intention to wear it a little but I want something to pass down. Any thoughts on long term value or collectibility on which one of these to chose and will be a better family heirloom? Thanks for any help.

[@leonardtabone8670]

Love the dial but didn't like the 39 mm size and 14.1.mm thickness is a no go.

[@largecarken8504]

Beautiful watch but I don’t enjoy GMTs not a fan of the extra hand. I am I huge fan of Grand Seiko though.

[@IDFTY]

I can say I love GS (and Seiko itself) more than Rolex for now..

[@kellypaws]

That's a low bar. A company that is virtually predicated on you being prepared to beg to be allowed to buy their products. No thanks. I mean absolutely no thanks. Omega, Blancpain, Tudor, GS and so many others will just let you buy their products, and may even be polite to you with it. I'm over Rolex.

[@kellypaws]

And it doesn't exactly hurt that GS are almost certainly technically superior. In fact, a few Seikos are technically superior.

[@peternicholas3858]

So done with Rolex!

[@jimroadhers]

Teddy please explain to me what a true GMT actually means.. how could a GMT not be a true GMT.. thanks Love your educational and interesting watch hobbies

[@dademack3544]

A true GMT allows you to move the hour hand independently and on the fly to set the current time. A travelers GMT allows you to move the GMT hand independently. Typically you set the gmt hand to home time zone and adjust the hour hand to your current time zone. Having the hour hand move independently makes changing the current time a snap.

[@jimroadhers]

@@dademack3544 thanks Ed

[@richardglazer7813]

I don't see Seiko and Grand Seiko being separate. They definitely talk to each other. Didn't the Spring Drive make its way down into the Seiko...

[@lukewalker1051]

I like the watch....not this watch because its a GMT which I would never own because the third hand distracts from telling time at a glance and overall clutters the aesthetic distracting from the native beauty of the piece. But the watch itself is exceptional and the GS in this configuration without the GMT hand is worthy of collecting. The thinner, lighter Ti Snowflake is the one to get as mentioned below...SBGA415

[@FS-zn9xe]

As my focus is not so much on the dial than functionality, such as lume, water resistance and case material I fell in love with the GS Evo 9 SBGE283. Just need to figure out which watch of my collection has to go to make place and provide the funds for it... ;)

[@tcomshere]

In the words of John Mayer, this is a "sleeper hit." JK, I know he didn't invent that phrase, but jokes aside, if I could justify another GS, this would be it. Sometimes GS gets on the brink of stretching it thin with their connections to nature, but this dial right next to the wake of any open water is nigh indistinguishable. Paired with the GMT function it just screams travel.

[@robingreen9621]

I have the SBGJ217 and much prefer the 24 hour marker position on the outer edge. The numerals inside the hour markers to me ruin the balance of the dial and do not help legibility, and the shorter stubby GMT hand is not as elegant.I do however like the texured dial and the finishing of GS watches are exemplary.

[@sylinmino]

I will say, that while Grand Seiko bracelets are not amazing visually, they look totally fine enough. The best draw about them, however, is that they're extremely comfortable. Like, I have two Cartiers with far superior looking bracelets, but neither wear as comfortably as my GS bracelet. I've tried on Rolex bracelets that are extremely comfortable too, and the Grand Seiko ones IMO measure up.

[@christophergan71]

From the usual 100m water resistance to 30m? That's a regression for GS. And what good is the zaratsu polishing if it's not legible at night without lume? It should position itself as a dress watch with leather strap like Patek or JLC, instead it looks like an incapacitated sports watch.

[@brianpercival1829]

Who is going to wear a $7000 watch in the pool? Unless pushed in. The depth rating is fine for this watch and most will wear on special occasions. Beautiful dial and specs, GMT and Spring Drive high beat count puts this watch on Bankers wrists at the office.

[@WeibenWang]

I wear the SBGA213 in the pool. I don't see why not. I'd be more concerned at the beach, just because of sand.

[@shenxshe0249]

I think 30m depth is enough for a swim in the pool. no stress about it, it is just a watch. people just too fuzzy about what they get. own a watch and wear it simple as that. dont stress about the scratches and signs of wear, its just a watch !

[@sunrisejak2709]

Stunning but still think my Snowflake is "the real deal" 😍

[@fVNzO]

What's behind the allure of HiBeat, automatic or even manual seiko movements when the spring drive either costs the same or can be had for cheaper? Seiko makes some very fine movements but surely, if you're a first time buyer (one without unlimited funds) you'll get a spring drive. These seem more like options for the guys that have the funds to build a Grand Seiko collection.

[@par25]

🔥

[@thomaschristopherwhite9043]

Jesus that GMT makes me sweat it's so gorgeous.

[@reymoneytalks974]

I wore this at AD and its kinda thick

[@jimmuisenga5025]

I’d really like to see GS go the Moser concept route with some of these dials. No print telling me the movement, no date, maybe just the GS. No indices.

[@harrislam]

Easy wearing dimensions? Teddy, that's a 14.1mm big boy. Diameter? Ya, thickness? No man.... The Zenith CM Original at 13-ish is pretty easy wearing and for good reason. This is a bit pushing it.

[@dickl6457]

No matter how great is the polish or finish of the watch. At the end of the day a watch should tell time.

[@simonkerr7924]

“Enthusiast Centric Metrics”. Wow.

[@jeroenvdbeken126]

I am considering this one v. Snowflake. Comments section, give me advice :)

[@loganholmberg2295]

Whats with the WR? We all know GS has done gmts of similar type with 100-200m of WR. At this price they couldn't give the consumer the piece of mind of even 100m of WR? Come on Seiko! Leverage your tech.

[@loganholmberg2295]

Case in fact the SBGJ203.

[@mickyfinn9331]

People who don’t own the watch seem to find faults but those who own them here all say these are non issues in real life. There is no perfect watch or model that’s universally perfect for everyone. Go try it and if it works buy it. If not move on. But until then keep and open mind. You might find it the perfect watch

[@stevekannan6076]

After owning a GMT and OP for almost 10 years I wanted to get myself a Hulk for my 60th birthday, about 2 weeks later I came across a page about high end clones and decided to give it a try. Once came I compared it to my original GMT (in terms of quality, feeling of the steel etc), I understood one thing, China can't be beaten. There is no chance ANYONE will be able to spot it as a fake, Even the inside movement is identical. The build quality and finish put a lot of legitimate Swiss brands to shame. The only genuine brand that actually provides high quality watches for cheap price is Seiko.

[@andrewdoe3488]

Where did you get it from? Asking for a friend 😂

[@stevekannan6076]

@@andrewdoe3488 Sweetrepsx100

[@andrewdoe3488]

@@stevekannan6076 Thanks!! On Instagram?

[@stevekannan6076]

@@andrewdoe3488 Yes

[@pitervain6644]

@@stevekannan6076 Time of shame to own a copy is end ! Now its just save money and avoid years of waiting list. Copy/clone is an act of art...... if you can build a Lamborghini yourself with a E38 BMW V12 why buy one ’’genuine’’ less reliable and too expensive ??

[@trylessego]

I LOVE GS but that bubble back in a killer no go for me.

[@EDHBlvd]

Grand Seiko really needs to improve their bracelets and clasps. They seem cheap compared to Rolex, Tudor, Omega, etc.

[@Mashburn007]

👀👀

[@chriscon8463]

You’re right! Lack of micro-adjustment is absurd for a watch at any price point, too! This is especially true when Rolex offers the excellent system they have.

[@alfieakaronaldog]

I’m all for a nice dial, but is it just me that thinks Grand Seiko dials are overrated and over the top. Yes they are well crafted and have wow factor, but there are not many I like that much (even the one I own) and the ones I do quite like leave me wondering if I like it enough to see it every time I wear it. If only GS spent a fraction of the effort on bracelets and clasps.

[@SirLoinOfsteak85]

Sooo .. They made a watch that looks like the surface of water... That can't go near water...?

[@ralph332]

Lume and water resistance are not factors for this watch.

[@alfieakaronaldog]

No micro adjustment on a bracelet means it’s Russian Roulette as to whether it fits you or not. That’s a pretty big deal I feel. The Reason I keep mentioning the bracelet is that I want them to upgrade it so that I might buy a watch. No way will I be buying another with such a poor bracelet.

[@toddgaak422]

Grand Seiko HAS to do better with their micro adjustments. This is really just unacceptable on a bracelet at any price point.

[@gator34kag]

I’ve always wanted to buy a GS but I’ve heard from people that it’s a 10k watch with $200 parts. Is that true or are they just wrong? Thank you

[@wristroll_vlad]

This one is $6.8k, don’t know about the parts and don’t care much since you have an 8-year warranty

[@toddgaak422]

They are very, very wrong.

[@shenxshe0249]

Imao

[@tarlancharkasov1048]

Grand Seiko for me is better than Rolex,Omega and other same price level brands

[@waynemarkc6862]

Teddy received email from you today...it looks like it maybe a scam....link in body to resubscribe because I havent responded to previous emails. I have never received any newsletter.. IS THIS A SCAM?

[@nuriddinbekqosimov9282]

👍👍👍👍

[@FM-us3rd]

2nd

[@pennyether8433]

I love this watch -- but it's not water resistant enough (despite ironically being inspired by a lake), and it's just too thick for my liking.

[@dademack3544]

Its inspired by a lake, it doesn't reside in one.

[@derekg2132]

I wish I could get into these any mechanical watches they are so damn expensive. I wanted to fake it til I make it with the omega swatch but asshole bots and scalpers buy em all up and put them for sale for 5 6times there msrp of 260 who wants to pay 1500 on a 260 watch? If I had 1500 id buy a 1500 dollar watch

[@LightPink]

Check out the "just one more watch" KZbin channel. Almost all the watches he reviews are below $500 and most below $250.

[@AP-cp1zt]

It amazes me that you have people willing to spend 7k on an IWC or a Breitling or anything of that nature when these beauties exist. Grand Seiko is so much better then most of these brands at similar price points