58SS pilot assembly description

[@bellagio88]

Thanks, this solved my problem. After the pilot came on nothing happened so I shorted the white and yellow wires and viola the main burners came on. I found a new one on eBay for $25.00 made by carrier, got lucky. A tip for taking off that 7/16 flare nut is to use a 11 mm wrench it’s much tighter and you won’t round that nut up.

[@filmteknik]

Thank you for your many great videos. Something you might find interesting is if you have one of these BDP three wire pilots laying around is to open up the switch part. Bend the tabs back, pull off the cover and insulator sheet, then lift off contact assembly. Check it out. The poker from the bimetal pushes contacts together then there is a raised pin in the middle that the moving contact uses as a fulcrum to eventually break contact at the other end. My conclusion is that it is SPDT make-before-break. So looks like the sparking should not stop until after MGV has opened or at least gotten power (some take several seconds to open after they get power).

[@danbollerjr4127]

So I just replaced mine with diagnostics done by a technician. Furnace was lighting up and shutting down just as explained in this video and eventually just failed altogether. I was able to get a Supco LH680005 through a supplier for $60. However I found online a Robert Shaw 1830-620K for about $45. I use Robert Shaw on my Blue Star range and they work as great replacements. Hell of a lot better than a new furnace bill.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Does the unit have an inducer? If so, does it start? Let me know. GFM

[@grayfurnaceman]

You got that! Thanks for the support. GFM

[@SeattlePioneer]

In MOST cases, the pilot switch doesn't need to be replaced. The pilot orifice needs to be cleaned. Remove the brass nut at the bottom of the pilot switch and the pilot orifice will drop into your hand (usually) Clean the pilot orifice with a hair from a wire brush and reinstall.That will solve a lot of problems pretty easily....

[@samideyar8534]

How about the igniter not spark?

[@LTVX2]

I agree with you Will. I have had terrible luck finding a replacement pilot assy that functions normally. I opened up the orifice to .020, and my old pilot assy behaved with much more stability/functionality.

[@yeksrub]

I just replaced one of them in my Bryant furnace. The pilot would ignite,but main burner would not. $69 on EBay, but like you said cheaper than a new furnace!

[@litesp]

I have 28V going to the Ignition control, but I don't get spark or pilot gas. Should I consider replacing the Ignition control or the igniter? Could the problem be the gas valve?

[@greatray6262]

Cheaper than a new furnace. Had a couple of furnace parts supply shops quote me over $180 for a new replacement. I ended up buying one on Ebay for $45. I understand a markup, but DAMN!!!

[@Sneakshot88]

So i think my pilot needs turned down, i have to slightly blownon the pilot for it to light when its sparking and when its on it seems to engulf the shield so im thinking maybe it needs turned down. Do i just adjust the pilot screw?

[@grayfurnaceman]

You can turn down the pilot screw to reduce pilot size, but I would be checking to see if the pilot is blue or yellow. If it is yellow, you have a dirty pilot assembly. You can clean it with compressed air or by simply blowing on the assembly. GFM

[@usahoangsatruongsa]

What 're the 3 wires in the back of the pilot burner ?

[@grayfurnaceman]

The wires go to a single pole, double throw heat operated switch that changes position when the pilot is burning. GFM

[@lonthrall5613]

Thank you!

[@grayfurnaceman]

Are you talking about disassembling the pilot itself? Let me know. GFM

[@Resist4]

So I'm looking to find a replacement 3 wire pilot assembly for my old Payne furnace that's not so expensive, they seem to cost under $60 which seems high to me but I don't know. Anyway, I'm wondering before I actually buy the replacement part, is there a way to tell if the current pilot assembly is actually broken? I'd hate to spend the money and then discover this part wasn't the problem.

[@grayfurnaceman]

There is no solid way to know for sure without electrical skills. I will say the pilot is the most common failure. GFM

[@Resist4]

@@grayfurnaceman what kind of electrical skills? I know how to use a multi meter, could I check the resistance after heating up the bimetal end?

[@phillyGz1]

I need a 2 wire for my system and I cannot find one. Do you know ow where I can buy one? Or can I use this 3 wire and just exclude one of the wires?

[@grayfurnaceman]

You do realize the 2 wire was eliminated over 40 years ago. I guess you could just use the normally open switch if you want but I stopped repairing those things around 25 years ago. You can replace the entire system with an intermittent ignition gas valve assembly. GFM

[@gloriasmith6889]

We have older Bryant furnaces that have that pilot assembly and is a standing pilot. I can jump out the pilot and it fires up. Whats the purpose of it being wired?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Gloria Smith Its a pilot safety that only allows the main gas to come on if it senses the heat of the pilot. GFM

[@gloriasmith6889]

Whats a replacement alternative? These are no longer being made and i cannot find them anywhere. Thx

[@grayfurnaceman]

There is none that I know of. They are still available. GFM

[@pi.actual]

Here is an update that may be of help to someone someday. I had a failure last month in the dead of winter which was the classic main gas off-relight-off-relight symptom. So I ordered a replacement on Amazon for $60. When I installed it the furnace would do nothing, not even try to start. I examined the new part and found an open circuit between all three wires. I returned the part and they sent a replacement which checked good with the Ohmmeter and worked initially but only for a few hours after which the pilot would no longer light. So I returned that one as well for a refund. Interestingly I was able to get my original one working again by spraying Deoxit into the area of the bimetallic strip so it seems it has to do with dirty or corroded contacts down there however it is not made to be disassembled or serviced in any way. As for the faulty new parts I believe this has to do with the fact that they are NOS and probably have been sitting in a warehouse bin for a decade or two. My P/N was LH680005 and there is an updated part FLS0005 but it is only available with a new ignitor so is about $90. For now my original continues to function but I can't help but feel it's a temporary fix.