Grease, Lubricant, Threadlock, Fibregrip: What & Where Should You Use It?

Walking into a bike shop can be a confusing time with a big range of maintenance products. It’s important not to get them mixed up though as they are specific for each job. So today, let’s take a look at lubricants, greases and threadlock and where and when to use them.
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Firstly, what is grease? To keep things pretty simply it’s largely made up of oil, which does the job of lubricating, added in is some thickener to turn it into the semifluid product we see here. Depending on the viscosity of grease, so basically the thickness, depends on how much thickener is added, logical right? There are lots of characteristics that make up grease, such as
Level Of Water resistance - pretty important to a cyclist usually as we tend to encounter rain, in our case in the UK, alot!
The dropping point - This is the temperature of which grease turns into liquid, or basically drips. You want grease, not liquid, right?
Then you’ve got additives - So components added into the mix it could be to help with resistance to corrosion for example, or to reduce friction and well I could keep going, for a long time.
Where to use grease?
A good way of thinking about it is that you grease parts that generally aren’t touched that often, so your bottom bracket threads or bearings, hub bearings, headset bearings, integrated crank spindles, brake lever clamp bolts that kind of thing.
Also, seatposts if you get one stuck… It can be a nightmare. More on those in a while though
What grease to use?
There are a few different types of grease out there, but basically for most jobs I tend to use something with a medium viscosity. At home, I use this Motorex grease when working on bike parts, it reminds me of the grease that comes fitted in Shimano bearings. It’s a decent thickness and lasts a good while. On my winter bike, which suffers from lots of road salt and basically the worst of the weather, I actually use marine grease. It’s got some of those extra additives in to resist corrosion and lasts a long time, warning though, it is very sticky and very messy. Wear an apron and some gloves, like this!
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How To Wax Your Chain 📹 gcntech.co/wax
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[@gcntech]

Do you know your grease from your threadlock?

[@yahyabaali7886]

Hi Jon, would you recommend me using ceramic oil over regular finish line dry oil? I only ride during the summer when its dry.

[@VladThe333]

and after applying the lubricant wait 3-4 hours. Solvent in lube must evaporate. So, ideal time for lube is evening)

[@bizzehdee]

How long does the wax last after the chain has been waxed?

[@georgehugh3455]

Yassine: And Nutella's way cheaper. Can't wait to apply - bike will smell great!

[@georgehugh3455]

Just for buying reference, NGLI 00 or 0 or 1 is a not-so-viscous grease suitable for many freehubs while NGLI 2 is kind of midway in thickness and useful for most other bike-grease applications

[@billbarnes543]

LocTite 222 for chainring bolts. It's a low strength threadlock - keeps the chainring bolts from loosening, but still allows for easy disassembly.

[@mihalis1010]

I have a 2006 Kona Jake the Snake. My mom bought it new, rode it for years, and has since passed it down to me. In the spring and fall, I disassemble it completely. When I reassemble it, I use white lithium grease in wheel bearings, the headset, bottom bracket, some threads like pedals, on the cassette hub, brake bosses, and on the interface between the cassette and lockring. All other bolts get blue thread locker. I usually put a drop of wet chain lube or silicon oil in brake and shift cable housings. The chain gets wet lube, though I think I might start using dry lube because I never ride in the rain if I can avoid it.

[@MrGibichung]

GCN just gets better and better. The addition of the Tech show with Jon has become my favorite video of the week, and Emma (as long as she speaks slowly) has been a very welcome addition. Thanks everyone. One suggestion, though: I wonder if it is possible to tape a show, like this one, with 12 minutes, without an "actually" every 18 seconds on average (or about 40 "actually"s for the episode. It would actually make the show even more interesting (and less distracting), actually. Thanks again for a great show, actually.

[@chrisrichardson3738]

Actually?

[@russellbaker4256]

Good catch, missed that - I was actually listening to the content

[@rzeckner]

Big fan of hot paraffin wax dip for my chain. All studies I am aware of rate it very highly for protection and low friction. However for me the biggest benefit is that I no longer have a greasy black stain on my right leg's calf after most rides.

[@davidmckenna3157]

I have been using the chain wax this winter and it is AWESOME! There are no bikes allowed in my building, but when I told "them" 1) how expensive my bike is and 2) how there is no chain lube to drip or rub on anything, I got the OK!

[@someguy9520]

nice. i guess that's ur work place? and they didn't say anything about the tires possibly being dirty?

[@boomerangfreak]

possibly dirty? lol when it rains or snows are whatever they ARE dirty XD

[@tobias3581]

Hey you are not allowed to take stuff into where you live!

[@pandoorloki1232]

@@someguy9520 Bike tires are cleaner than street shoes.

[@hjshoon5244]

Bike tool companies like (eg muc off, park tool, finish line) should come out with a small starter kit for these different kinds of stuffs, minimally carbon grip, grease, seize paste and maybe thread lock for people who don't need the whole tubes. Lubes are used more frequently so makes sense to sell them separately. Or is there already one what I'm not aware of?

[@TypeVertigo]

As far as I'm aware, Canyon and/or Trek do give you a small packet of carbon assembly paste (Fiber Grip) with every new bike. But yes, great idea. Makes sense from a marketing point of view, too.

[@ElliotFlowers]

All of this stuff is repackaged from a 3rd party manufacturer. I doubt if even Shimano own any manufacturing facilities for grease/ oil...

[@noelharrington4786]

John's best one so far. He's starting to nail it now

[@harrie974]

I use squirt lube for several years now. It’s a wax based dry lube that keeps the chain clean for a longer time.

[@RegisACoelho]

I'm using the wax method for more than 3 months now, and aside of the removing chain to lube, it's perfect. Obs.: I reapply every month or 3 weeks. Started with a new chain, and the wear is apparently normal. A tip I learned. Where I live, big ceremonial candles are cheaper for the weight and easier to find than to buy paraffin.

[@Stuartrusty]

Loctite 222 screwlock for chainring bolts, limit screws and brake bolts. Weldtite TF2 lithium grease with teflon (not ideal environmentally, but have had one tube for the last 3 years) for bearings, seatposts and other dissimilar surfaces I don't want to sieze. Chain Juice wet lube for chain in current UK conditions. For all other things like derailleur pivot and swing points, occasional cable easing, brake levers and gear shifters I use good old 3 in 1 multi purpose lube.

[@dhkitson1]

I use and have used a wax based lubricant called Sqirt for my mountain bike and road bike chains. It works in both wet and dry conditions. The application method is different for wet vs dry .I've had excellent results with it.

[@davidslater6672]

I use Squirt wax lube on my chain. Works well and helps keeps the chain clean. Easy maintenance👍

[@willk4036]

instructions not clear, put threadlocker into bearings

[@B_COOPER]

Bearings are just solid hunks of weight! Save some weight and aerodynamic benefits by removing them!

[@jurestiplosek3018]

I bought one liquid grease from our local shop. It is for chainsaw. But that one is really clear and not too aggressive. If I hear some noise from bike I just spray little and it is amazing how long it will last. Better than any stuff I've been using so far.

[@ScottFrizzell-e7t]

I use a water proof green grease. It doesn't wash out and is resistant to rust and corrosion. Also offers salt water protection. Excellent stuff

[@ridein]

I would've stated the lube accessories which are helpful, that is using a needle spout oiler bottle, which is very helpful lubing chains, and a grease gun is great for speedplay pedals.

[@BooklessT]

GCN Tech has never been quite as good since Mr Channing stopped presenting IMHO!

[@EditioCastigata]

Anti-seize: Don't use any copper-containing one, go for a ceramics-based product. Threadlocker: Loctite 222 should be enough; but due to all the aluminium and Ti parts, you'd need to use activator 7471 or 7649 as well. And if you live in Germany, you can get away with the best all-season grease for a bike: KP2K-35 or KPK-30 (5€ die Kartusche, für Landwirtschaftsmaschinen). Lose bearings or press-fit BB? Loctite 638.

[@stevenbailey4543]

I use paraffin between chain waxing and it works great. Chain attracts very little dirt and it is much cleaner when dealing with the drive train in the field

[@stevehambley55]

For years I've used TriFlow on chains and LE (Lubrication Engineers) for grease with good results.

[@QDWhite]

The “thickener” in grease is actually a non-Newtonian fluid more like soap that stays more solid when stationary, but turns liquid under shear stress such as when a bearing starts spinning.

[@rabishop4684]

I use Duckhams Admax L2 lithium grease for most purposes. It's more waterproof than conventional greases. It was used in the assembly of windscreen wiper motors and gear boxes where I used to work. I bought a commercial size tub about 10 years ago when a very small tin of Campagnolo grease cost about £5.

[@TheLife1100]

I clean my chain before lubrication.I use Joe's no-flat Ptfe based lubricant for dry conditions for many years.

[@karstenmeinders4844]

Just watched it today for the first time. Very good overall advice and some hacks I haven't known before.

[@rangersmith4652]

A grease's dropping point is probably never going to be an issue on a bicycle.

[@andersbangpoulsen1078]

Using squirt lube year round on all my bikes. Requires more attention but it really increases the lifetime of the drivetrain.

[@MarshWaha]

+GCN Tech ( really hope you see my post) love your videos! Wish I had a job with GCN! I might want to add that Seat Assembly Compound (SAC), is also ideal if your putting a steel seatpost in Aluminum bike frame or aluminum seatpost in a steel frame. Also If I install a seatpost that is the same metal as the frame e.g. aluminum seatpost on Aluminum frame I will still use SAC for two reasons: A.) For Better Grip. B.) Because I am trying to avoid binding. So I just want to point that out.

[@njm3211]

Something else to consider is stopping galvanic corrosion between materials which have a large difference on the galvanic scale with a suitable grease or coating. A carbon seatpost set in an aluminum seat tube spells mega trouble. I had to totally destroy a carbon wrapped Most seat post to liberate it from a Pinarello F4:13 seat tube which to my surprise was aluminum with a carbon fiber over wrap. It took hours of chiseling and reaming with improvised tools to get the tube cleared for a new Deda seat post. I slathered on carbon gripper paste and taped the interface to stop any water from getting in.

[@kajet666]

Hey Jon, do you use a degreaser to clean the chain before applying lube? I do, but I've heard a theory saying that you shouldn't, the reason being that you cannot - allegedly - properly get the lube "inside" the chain, so you should let the factory lube stay in there, and using a degreaser wipes the inside clean. What is your take?

[@theblackspark2644]

Sounds like I'll need to look into this before I buy degreaser.

[@falcoperegrinus82]

Back in my day, we used 3 in 1 oil for everything and we were happy if we even got that!

[@JonCannings]

the good old days!

[@batbawls]

I use Squirt with great success, and it cleans up much easier than conventional chain lubes.

[@isthisthingon8022]

Great video. I wanted to know if I am using the right greases for the various applications. As well as answering the question, this video helps to understand the reason's behind the choices - especially useful when the materials you're greasing differ.

[@woshigepro2]

I have been thinking about this. I half been using wax(mixed with some paraffin oil) chain for 1 year now. I like it for its longevity. Reapplying is tedious. I wonder I could extend the period between each complete wash and re-dip by actually using wax in a squirt bottle. The wax will be solid so I must heat it up before dripping at each roller of the chain.

[@drewcama5481]

Ok I almost never clean my road bike, because once I start I don't stop and 3 hours later I'm sort of finished. I haven't taken my hubs apart but cleaned the exterior with rag and tooth brush. I know your not supposed to, but I use wd40 on every thing. It's just so easy the airesol spray can flush out areas between the free wheel cogs etc. I can't be bothered with three different types of specialty lubes really! I wipe down the rims with a clean dry rag at the end and there is no noticeable contamination or breaking problems. I bought 2 tubes of white car grease 25 years ago and I still have half of one left. I use this grease on anything I put grease on. Head tube bearings hub bearing caps and chain once a year. In the summer I use wd40 on the chain and now a dry lube depending on weather or dirt on chain I'll use one or the other. In winter in snow and freezing weather I use only the grease on the chain and not wd40 because that will freeze and you cant shift gears. ( back in the day when I worked as a bike courier year round. In the winter in Montreal Canada it can get to -20 Celsius easy). So the question is as a non competitive cyclist whats the big deal? Why should I clean my bike more? Will My chain rings and freewheels where out faster? will I ruin my chain faster? will I ruin my hubs faster? PS I've never used thread lock nor seem to need to. PPS Spray some wd40 inside your cable housing will make them run smooth and never need to be replaced. Well almost never, I shredded the nipple some how on my gear housing cable and had to replace it. If you wax your chain do you still lube it ever?

[@Hambini]

Good video, succinct and to the point. Thumbsup

[@robbouchard1]

I have been using chain saw oil for my chains over the last couple of years, it has similar properties to some of the high end lubes at a fraction of the price. You can buy a large can that lasts forever.

[@melinasparks3268]

Rob Bouchard how is it in wet and dry conditions? What brand do you use?

[@davidide1525]

Great series of videos ! I use Rock n Roll Gold for my road bike in dry weather and RnR blue for wet weather and mtn bike.

[@jameswilson2815]

Been using White Lightning chain lube for years. No complaints.

[@ttrrs_o3498]

Hi mate,I use T-9,a little sticky but does the job.Good show,cheers.

[@IGotsBadFeeling]

This actually helped a lot. I might have over used the anti-cease a bit. Oh well.

[@Eusebeia7]

I have used just plain motor oil for 18 years on my Trek hybrid utility bike. It is simple and reliable but I do not race.

[@snow5772]

Can i use that anywhere on my bike?

[@Eusebeia7]

@@snow5772 Yes but it is messy. I am trying Finish Line Dry Bike Lubricant right now.

[@someguy9520]

I use fibre grip on any bits and bops that are carbon or touch carbon, like stem, handlebar, seatpost, steeretube. Got a tube of general use grease(mainly meant for bearings) for bearings and such or threads that tend to corrode or galvanize like pedals. I stopped lubing my chains half a year because changing from dry to wet lube and vice vers changed literally nothing. Wet lube stayed on longer, but after ONE wet ride i had to clean the chain anyways since it attractd like a ton of grit. Dry lube doesn't attract as much grit, but gets washed off after ONE wet ride. Even in completely dry conditions, it doesn't stay all that long. So after a wet ride i had to clean my chain either way. This became quite daunting when i had 7 rainy rides in a row. So i choose to wax my chain. Never will i ever use anything diffrent. Lasts longer, repells dirt like a maniac, less friction and apparently reduces chain and cog wear. I waxed my 5 chains and the ones of a friend and my girlfriend. Everyone said that it really does work way better.

[@Bugumir]

You know it's a good video when you leave it more confused than when you clicked on it.

[@sadropol]

As for thread lock for stem bolts I would use self-sealing stem bolts whenever possible.

[@pageemma74]

I've been using Shimano Hydraulic Mineral Oil when putting my back wheel hub back together. Runs much better now

[@Dr4g0nW00d]

copper grease what they use for new car brake pads also a good grease for two metals interaction or stem bolts etc

[@M4VERICK1982]

I use Finish Line Extreme Wet lube in the winter bike and Muc-off dry ceramic lube for the summer ride. Both are great but the muc-off is superb

[@angstanon]

I've used the same stuff for... well, seems like forever. White Lightning for my chain, SuperLube synthetic grease, and Boeshield T-9 for derailleur joints and brake pivots (that sort of thing).

[@TypeVertigo]

T-9 is also great for re-lubricating control levers (STIs, DoubleTaps). For the more exposed, easily accessible innards, you can go over them with grease. I hear Slick Honey is a good option.

[@jaycollins6792]

Wd40 wet lub for winter or muc off dry lube for summer And after washing I use gt85 to pull the moisture from the the links of the chain and use on springs in the derailiers and on occasion the inner workings of the shifters.😁 o and I find gt85 works well to protect the frame.👍🏻 smashing video as always

[@mr.bianchirider8126]

I use paraffin/paraffin oil on my chain, bearing grease on the pedal axle to prevent binding to the crank, Phil’s Tenacious in the freewheel (a loud freewheel is annoying) and a drop or two of Finishline Red on the jockey wheel.

[@AA-zq1sx]

Nice to see a well organized, clean shop! Keep up the good work ^_^

[@jamesjahmoolahutmorrison4104]

I use Marine grease for my head tube in the winter, seems to do the trick👍🏻

[@martin-ss4pb]

Hi, I'm an amateur to bike maintenance - is there a reason why marine grease isn't used all year round? Despite being slightly more messy, it seems far superior compared to normal grease. Thanks

[@jamesjahmoolahutmorrison4104]

martin it’s not slightly more messy, it’s a lot more glupy and will take more of a battering from the elements. It works wonders if you ride a lot in the winter😊👍

[@shaunrogers2256]

@@jamesjahmoolahutmorrison4104 I'll make it easier for you. Martin wants to know why you don't use it in the summer.

[@jamesjahmoolahutmorrison4104]

Shaun Rogers surprised Martin couldn’t reiterate his question if it was obvious I didn’t answer it. But thank you Shaun for reminding me, much appreciated. To finish the answer... not sure if Shaun will be letting Martin know I had answered it... I use one grease all year round, though think of it like using Wet Lube on your chain, you will see a bit of muck from the build up of dust.

[@shaunrogers2256]

@@jamesjahmoolahutmorrison4104 I thought that others may like to know the answer also.

[@monnkeey]

Is there any difference in using different type of grease? such as lithium or teflon grease, etc? Or is it okay to use one type for all.

[@Edeljokaa]

Really informative. Thanks, guys. I've been wondering about all of this for months.

[@Vii_DT]

I use Morgan Blue's Race Oil because Friction Facts tested them to be amongst the fastest lubes, it's not pricey, and it's durable once on the chain. On the side, one of its ingredients is some form of paraffin. Maybe the efficiency gain is minimal, but hey if that doesn't come at a cost, why not? As for the grease, I also use Morgan Blue's Campa Grease. Although I'll accept that this particular choice isn't supported by evidence. Just so it matches with the lube on my shelf 😂

[@mantelles]

Greetings, Is Morgan Blue available in the USA? Can't seem to locate it here

[@Cuzzazbuzz]

I’ve been using Fenwicks Stealth on a gravel bike going through all sorts of crap and it doesn’t attract dirt so much plus it lasts a good few hundred miles and is quieter than any other lube I know. P.S. I have a shelf full of different types. Need to apply warm though...

[@mikomoron]

I use Biltema's Super Smörjmedel (Super Lubricant) and nothing compares to it, in my opinion. That's as a chain lubricant obviously. 👍🏻

[@poststuff2]

I use Boeshield T-9 chain lube for dry riding conditions in California.

[@humstrumbangtwang]

Crisp ‘n’ Dry is the best you can get!

[@axisludi]

Is it true that lithium grease can ruin cartridge bearing seals? What is Teflon grease? Is it also obtained from oil? Is there any grease that doesn't come from oil? What do you think about lubes made from vegetable oil? I'm interested in more details like these, compatibility and stuff. Maybe could be a topic for a new video? Thanks :)

[@chm1701]

Great video. Informative, clear and well presented.

[@691deadsilence]

I use ludicrous AF works awesome

[@drummerzip]

Rock N Roll Gold!

[@buixote]

3 in 1 instead of Triflow... we don't need any more fluorine in the environment. Phil tenacious oil for wet weather. Best place to lubricate: derailleur pivot points (not to say don't do it elsewhere, but first time I did this, I though I had died and gone to heaven!). Question... I've been lubing both sides of the chain, where the plates touch... not the roller... am I misguided?

[@patrickhance7348]

Thanks 👍 this was very informative.pat from Belgium 🚲

[@jurestiplosek3018]

I almost fall. My handlebar broke while riding. I was lucky that happened on flat road so I was able to catch myself. I use it indoor to. Now I clean it more often :)

[@nickmannerings3574]

Prolink gold for the chain. Keeps it clean.

[@budojon]

I use Dr.Wack F100 Chainoil. Supposed to be one of the best.

[@MaxMue]

Awesome information for diy bike work!

[@bengt_axle]

I wonder what would happen if you use thread locker and fibre grip on your chain, and chain lube on your carbon handlebar .

[@theblackspark2644]

Bad things probably haha

[@euanroy4673]

I knew all of this already but was still an interesting video, actually I did realise something... I use wayyy too much chain lube 😂

[@melinasparks3268]

euan roy that will save your some money!

[@trabink2]

Great show again Jon!

[@m0redave]

I had no idea Park Tool made some of the products shown in this video.

[@Thecrazyvaclav]

David Morgan they don't,somebody else makes it,puts it in the park packaging,and park charge 5x the price for it

[@alonzomartii]

Go to your west marine store or pep boys.

[@your_average_cultured_dude]

@@Thecrazyvaclav cheapskate

[@Thecrazyvaclav]

just a random educated human I'm not a cheapskate,just refuse to pay park tools extortionate prices for products exactly the same as cheaper stuff

[@your_average_cultured_dude]

@@Thecrazyvaclav you just refuse to pay a higher price for high quality tools.

[@mathman76]

MUCH needed video for this n00b 🤘

[@dancer65]

Thanks for all of your helpful videos, I really appreciate them. Question: If I use a retaining compound when installing my new press-fit bottom bracket, will it prevent me removing and replacing the BB if/when I need to?

[@kinematics4999]

Very good Tip thanks.... Is there any product to Prevent/help Tires get Dry ?

[@michaeltsui6008]

I am still confused the use about thread lock and grease . Could you elaborate where and when we should use grease vs thread lock. And whenever you use thread lock you would apply grease, then the bolt will rust quite easily.

[@Hardi26]

Should I use grease, when assembling headset on carbon fork, that has integrated crown racer(all carbon)..? cartridge bearing. Some instructions, say to not put any grease there when it's carbon.. But I think they are mistaken.. When I disassembled it on my bike first time there clearly was some grease, but it did not look like it had done anything bad there... I think it was there, because it has been squeezed out from cartridge bearing.. Would a silicon based grease be better, than typical mineral oil based one for there. It don't need to have some very good lubrication properties. Just keep water and dirt out.. And maybe lubricate in case when the bearing should fail? ..I got some silicon based brake grease from cars parts store, and I was thinking to try use it next time when cleaning and reassembling it.. Would that be a bad idea, or good? Should I really trust the label of grease, or oil can, when it say that it won't affect o-rings or rubber, or plastic parts in bad way.. When it's based on mineral oils. And when they call it as synthetic oil, but then the small text still says, that it's made of mineral oils.. it's confusing. I know the mineral oil destroys the rubber. I have ruined some rubber and plastic parts in past when used wrong oil/grease.

[@tonyhalm7308]

ProGold for winter cyclocross

[@petinka721]

Thanks for all tip GCN! I think I need buy thread lock.

[@mattvernon656]

Hi, great video on the lubes etc but I see ceramic lubes advertised, what are these and what purpose do they serve?

[@masonv45]

I've been using Spectro Chain Wax (for motorcycles) for about 6 months now. Works great and is a cheaper than "Bike" specific chain lubes. A motorcycle chain is constructed the same way as a bike chain. The problems that are present for Motorcycle chains are the same for "Bike" chains i.e. water/road grit. The Presenter's comment about not using spray cans due to spray getting on disk rotors and tires is complete rubbish. Motorcycle chains, disk brakes, and rubber tires have been in use for decades - spray lube has been around almost as long. Just hold a rag under the chain as you spray - problem solved.

[@adamsheret149]

Been using Smoove chain lube (which seems to be a bit like wax) and it seems to work really well

[@gethind-j2390]

Hey Jonny Tech, great vid! Thanks.

[@gcntech]

👍

[@mrgq2000]

Have you tried Wend Wax? It looks like a deodorant bar. You roll the chain on the stick of wax for about four times around on each side of the rollers.

[@dh7314]

I tried waxing for a few months over winter. Even indoors on a trainer I couldn't get more than 100miles per waxing so was waxing about 5-6 times a month. I tried adding more parafin oil to soften it but no improvement. Gone back to messy old lube.

[@4dirt2racer0]

actually sealed bearings can be completely serviced, u have to b careful not to actually mess the seal up, iv done exactly way too many n cant remember ever damaging one yet so they are suprisingly robust, im also tend to be extremely ocd careful with things like that, personally i use a starrett scribe whiches perfect for puttin holes in the end of ur finger, but if u miss ur finger n get the point of the scribe right under the edge of the seal u can really easily work or pop the seal out, its pretty obvious

[@garyhope6459]

Why does my bottle of Finishline Dry Lube say 'All Weather Conditions' on the front? Are they just trying to confuse people?

[@ofthelord1020]

I use grease on my fsa slk carbon seatpost in to aluminium frame at 4 1/2 NM of torque, no slippage, i used the piber grip and i couldn't get the thing out and it scratched the seatpost.

[@reigh7]

My question is on prepping spokes for wheel building. There are specialty compounds lie spoke prep that can also be two colored to help keep drive side straight but at 20$ for each color and it's not much. Linseed oil has always been a go to since it dries for some grip and helps during building. I've also been told and used successfully and standard drive oil and a drop of Loctite medium blue some brands of bike DT Swiss Spoke Freeze locking compound. What's the recommendations on how and when to apply these options during a build.

[@wangdangdoodie]

Neatsfoot oil (used for dressing leather) is a good alternative to linseed oil.

[@paulhatcher1490]

I think, (correct me if I'm wrong), dry lube works best when it's been left to dry for a few hours, as you're then left with a dry PTFE coating. So do it the night before. If you ride straight after applications it'll attract dirt just like wet lube. I always keep a cheeky bottle of wet lube with me in my toolkit just in case of a mid ride deluge. It's infuriating having that squeak start up once the clouds have cleared :)

[@theblackspark2644]

This sounds logical.

[@justjordan8018]

I am using Tenga Sensitive.

[@shefce1]

I just used finish Teflon grease for my pedals and they don't move like they were before

[@dorinmantoiu]

How about grease with ceramic or grease with Teflon, do they have a specific use? Bought them when I was building my bike, as one thinks more expensive, must be better, but never got the different scope of each. Cheers, Dorin

[@AlexandreLegerCatt]

Thanks for this clear and useful presentation. Any opinion on the Squirt lubrificant ?

[@bl5752]

What grease do you use for the crankshaft on the crankset during installation? Can I use the Finish brand ceramic grease I have? Or do I need to buy a specific grease for the crankset?

[@melcookehome]

What about lubricating pulleys, derailleur pivot points?

[@JonCannings]

a light drop of oil is suitable there

[@SamCarleton]

I use Dumonde Tech Original Chain Lube on my chain.

[@Distorted-Vision]

Copaslip for pedal threads. Never get a seized pedal.