HACKED!: Speaker System gets an IR Remote

[@BEdmonson85]

Wow, I couldn't believe my eyes when you opened the subwoffer and the atmel was socketed

[@Jonas_Meyer]

Well Teufel is a german company :D

[@OemarLP]

+Jonas Meyer Still not as good as they were 10 years ago.

[@OemarLP]

Pretty good... I had a Stereo System from Teufel and it was great but too big for my new house... 2 months ago I wanted to buy a new Stereo system from Teufel but the sound and build quality for 1500€ was pretty bad. Now I have a Sorround System from Bose for almost the same price and it sounds extremely nice.

[@casemodder89]

teufel audio is no cheaposhit ;) you get pretty much for what you pay !

[@NicholasElliott]

Oh boy 😍 I'd have probably tried reverse engineering the entire control board and write new code for it, maybe with more functions and likely using the tv remote instead of another arduino

[@wonseok_song]

4:13 In which universe 'couple of years' is 125.6 years?

[@SinuheZubieta]

Great work, Just one recommendation. Why use a wake up switch? you can use pin change interrupt on the 3 main switches to wake up the board. Pin Change Interrupt work on any of this arduino pins. Pin Change Interrupt Request 0 (pins D8 to D13) Pin Change Interrupt Request 1 (pins A0 to A5) Pin Change Interrupt Request 2 (pins D0 to D7)

[@thetommantom]

idk how i found your videos a while back but i just keep watching new ones and learning on old ones and the knowledge you share is incredible. a lot of your videos you can just swap out parts to do different things and do tweak them for whatever project you can think of. your videos give me so many ideas

[@greatscottlab]

Awesome ;-)

[@lucystanley7470]

This is voiding your warranty with style

[@aaronnorman9755]

Style is an understatement

[@simonthecucumberenjoyer1042]

In 100 years great Scott will still use the remote with the same battery

[@mitropoulosilias]

and same speaker system...

[@AnalysIR]

1:01 it looks like there is already an IR receiver on the main system board. Presumably the original remote is lost :) Often, it is possible to get the IR codes online to use with IRremote. +1 on the earlier suggestion of using un-used buttons on an exiting remote or just a spare remote control. Will also get longer range (vs 100R driven directly from MCU) great videos!

[@dkiller857]

Recently I think about remote turning off lights in my bedroom,fortunately you give me this video. Thank you very much Scott!!!

[@LIVEWIREMEDIAENT]

I dont always get what this guy is talking about , but I cant help but watching ......

[@ankdoeslego9731]

Same

[@danijel124]

I am ashamed to say that I am an electrician but microcontroller stuff is beyond me :P

[@ankdoeslego9731]

+danijel124 I understand microcotrollers but when he starts talking about maths I get very confused.

[@Trident7235]

So why you don't always get what this guy is talking about? Because of his stupid English pronounce or because you are too stupid for electronics?

[@beicel]

LUL

[@joachimpri]

Nice video... Why not just use unused buttons on an existing ir remote? I would not want an open circuit remote lying on my coffee table. Nice tip with the arduino low power. Who knew!

[@greatscottlab]

I already used your described approach in a previous video. I wanted to do something different.

[@joachimpri]

+GreatScott! Great... hmmm... somehow I missed that one... oh wait... I think that was the one with the LED strips behind your tv. Anyway, great videos man... keep it up. you are the highlight of my sunday evening viewing pleasure here in Boksburg, South Africa.... Shoutout to great scott! quick question, do you accept project ideas or not really? if so, where can i send it?

[@greatscottlab]

Joachim Prinsloo You can put your ideas in the comment section. If I like them I put them on my to do list.

[@joachimpri]

+GreatScott! awesome! Will do so. cheers!

[@TheRoKitMan08]

+GreatScott! You should 3d print a case for the remote board

[@sharedinventions]

Why do we need NPN transistors for acting like switches in the receiver? We are talking about logic levels, not about current flow. I would connect our Arduino pins though some hundreds ohm resistor to the "open side" of the switches. Am I wrong? (Maybe using optocouplers would be an elegant solution, but that's a different story.)

[@HerczegZsolt]

With a little more programming, you could use all the 3 buttons as wake-up pins. You can do the IR code sending instantly on wake-up, and go to sleep when code is sent. That way, you don't need the 4th button, and the power consumption is even smaller.

[@spacemonkey2377]

Your videos are obviously popular now, and for good reasons. But I expect them to become references for a long long time. I mean I still go back to some Afrotechmods videos after all these years if I forget some details. Keep it up friend! Your work is of high quality, very intructive, and it's inspiring.

[@maxximumb]

Great project. I had an idea to eliminate the need for a wake up button. As there are only 2 pins available for the Nano to use IRQ (I think I'm correct here?) Then if you link each of the 3 original pins to pin 2 with a diode on each pin, to stop current flowing from the button pins back to pin 2 and then to ground. Pressing any of the 3 buttons will connect pin 2 to ground through the button you pressed and the pull down resister. I don't know how long the Nano takes to wake, but if it isn't too long, the original button press, might be picked up by the nano before the user lets go of the button.

[@ferrypals7165]

can you also use a attiny 45/85 for the resever/transmitter

[@khashmeshab]

Great as always! But: 1. I've used the unused buttons of other remote controllers for my projects, so you don't need to built a remote or carry one with you which decreases the probability of it getting lost! 2. You could use the PCINT function of the ATmega328 instead of that fourth button. Look at its datasheet for more info. 3. You didn't need the transistors. Just make the output of the 328's pin low. 4. With the help of 3 diodes (1n4748) you could disconnect the ground from your microcontroller in the remote and connect the power to it only when a button is pressed. So, zero power when standby = theoretically infinite battery life!

[@asdffghjkllkjhgfdsa8479]

Masoud Gheysari 1. He shows how to create a IR remote of course you can use another 2. The Mikrocontroller takes a couple of seconds to star

[@khashmeshab]

Asdffghjkl Lkjhgfdsa 2. No. It's at most 65ms. It can be easily decreased to less than 1ms.

[@asdffghjkllkjhgfdsa8479]

Masoud Gheysari Realy? Do we mean the same? do you disconnect the power from the microcontroller ? i have an arduino nano and it takes ~1,5 seconds until the code is running but i am learing on arduino since this year ^^

[@ShadowMythThe]

Wow, I just stumbled upon this channel! I want to thank you for rekindling my interest in creating my own pcbs. It's been years since I've done projects such as these. You have me hooked again.

[@forgeteverythingyouknow5413]

First, I'm jealous of the time you have to do these things And second You're my hero.

[@electroGoal]

Is that possible to use microphone Jack as a ir input and decodeing its code. If you have any idea please comment

[@BowersElectronics]

I was just thinking about making something like this last week. but instead of making a remote I would take the output of another remote to get the hexadecimal code for the receiver. I'm sure everybody has a remote laying around that doesn't control anything. also what about adding RF capability to the remote? that would be quite interesting.

[@maxximumb]

I was wondering about making a programmable universal remote.

[@richardlighthouse5328]

Since speaker system already has avr microcontroller, I would get the assembly from the mcu and reprogram to work it with custom ir codes as well.

[@id513128]

More advanced than my last project. I like deep sleep mode as well! Awesome again +GreatScott!

[@Olli120]

2:33 I'm sorry for the stupid question, but why do we need resistors here? Wouldn't it also work without them?

[@SkillfullyBlind]

You're videoes really are inspiring, ive watched youre videoes for a while now and i see that we think in a very similar fashion. Today the sharging port on my phone broke and i did not come up with a good way to fix it, so i used a TP4056 micro USB battery charger that i clued to a peace of plywood, fitted that with some wires as contacts and now i charge one battery out of two so i can use my phone as i come up with a more permanent selution. Thank you, i would not have had the knolage or the TP4056 if i havent startet watching you'r videoes

[@LucasHartmann]

Well done with the low-power lib. Can't you attach interrupts to all 3 switches, though?

[@maxximumb]

No, the Nano and Uno only allow interrupts on pins 2 & 3.

[@LucasHartmann]

Then maybe one switch to each interrupt, and the other switch via diodes to both interrupts?

[@maxximumb]

Lucas Hartmann I posted a comment about linking the three pins to pin 2 via a diode on each pin. I can't see why it wouldn't work. I'm tempted to pull out my project box and rig up the circuit to give it a try. I just have other stuff I should be doing instead of playing with my toys.

[@LucasHartmann]

+Maxx B Just remembered, we could arrange the switches in a 3x1 matrix (instead of the usual 4x3 matrix), and use the 1 as the interrupt pin.

[@Chowmix12]

Use arduino's pin change interrupt instead to give you access to wake the arduino on many more digital pins playground.arduino.cc/Main/PinChangeInterrupt

[@reiserdog]

Hmm.. Connect all the buttons with diodes to the wake up pin, and lose the wake up button?

[@greatscottlab]

Possible

[@MD-vs9ff]

Petteri Kähärä Pin change interrupts. No need to bother with a separate wakeup switch for this, then you can just put it immediately to sleep.

[@RWBHere]

A Tesla coil would not work as a reliable, low-powered remote, running from a button cell...

[@m00str]

Exactly what I thought. Well not exactly. I thought of two-connection switches (I have no clue what they are called) where the first connection goes to the designated input of the Arduino and the other connection goes to the interrupt

[@neckslicer]

Yeah that's actually a really good idea

[@rich1051414]

Couldn't you configure it to use the default audio subsystem controls on your universal remote? I understand the cool factor of making your own remote, it just seems more logical to me, to use a common standard as reference so any universal remote will work.

[@onkelpit]

As always a really great video. Wouldn't it be possible to read the binary from the AT89 and read out the literals for IR-codes? Or are the lockbits set?

[@canaDavid1]

Alternatively, reprogram the '89

[@simonnicholson5913]

Great project. I particularly like the wake up button.

[@RiyadhMarthinus]

Please make a video explaining how to make an H-bridge. It is something that I have been trying to do for a very long time but you do the best at explaining these things.

[@greatscottlab]

I wouldn't mind doing one. But for the meantime check out Afrotechmods channel. He has a very good video about H-bridges.

[@dickheadrecs]

+GreatScott! don't be afraid to double up on others content. you have an interesting perspective!

[@Makerside]

That was very intersting! I'm not an electronics engineer, but easyEDA is the disclosure for me. Thanks for video :)

[@unclepecos5426]

I do love your step by step explanation which is exactly my style! Thanks for great effort.

[@cdxa5862]

Keysight MSO X 3054T Oscilloscope worth about 15.000$ in amateur lab. Well I'm impressed! BTW. Your videos are very interesting, fresh look on usual things.

[@greatscottlab]

Thanks mate ;-)

[@RexDorchester]

You should have used DPDT momentary switches so that you can use the second pole to connect and disconnect the "sleep". So you could press any button to wake it up and then press it again and it'd send a command... yet that's not really a much better design, I thought it was a good idea.

[@rklauco]

I'd do a slight mod of the transmitter - by adding diodes to the 3 switches you can avoid the wakeup button. The atmega wakes up fast enough to detect the button no problem. And you can do the transmitter and receiver by ATtiny, saving clovk circuitry and power ;)

[@LeoDDJ]

I think you could have solved it without the fourth button. Two ideas that popped into my mind immediately: 1) Use Pin Change Interrupt (if the library supports it) 2) polling the buttons takes only a few microseconds. On another project of mine, in the loop, I simply slept for 1ms or so (maybe even up to 5ms) and then polled the buttons. I don't remember the exact current draw anymore, but it was around a few micro amps. Because the human reaction time (which I let my friends try ;) ) is at maximum 10ms, polling every 1ms is more than enough for reaction time. (I also used direct port manipulation to read the pins, because it saves sooo much time (and therefore power) in comparison to digitalRead) Option number two would probably be the best solution, depending on power draw.

[@shanerobertson100]

Where do you get your jumper wires? The look sturdy

[@michaeliline9510]

Awesome! However when I saw the mictocontroller I couldn't help but wonder how could one extract code from that and possibly reverse-engineer the original IR commands. Any ideas?

[@DrZipZwan]

GreatScott!, your sound system has already an IR receiver , why not simply clone the native remote it came with, lets say for example its original remote broke... It would have been easier for most people to clone the broked remote. So it would have been a project that would have saved a lot of people. Great video as always ;)

[@hopkinskong]

Also, you can check the PRR to reduce power usage when your processor is at running state.

[@tasmedic]

Cool mixing of technologies. Wonderful.

[@emuboy85]

Awesome video as always , if it were me I would probably replace the main atmel on the control board, looks like that is just reading the buttons and the infrared and feed a pwm or two, then you would be able to use any kind of transmitter you want :)

[@charliecarpenter2840]

Very helpful video Thanks. Would it be possible to connect the wake up pin to each button so that only one button press is needed ?

[@martin2250]

Du kannst bei der Fernbedienung zum Aufwecken den pin-change-interrupt verwenden. bei den meisten 'Megas hat jeder Pin den PCINT und der funktioniert auch im power-down mode (tiefster Schlafmodus) damit kannst du dir den 'Weck'-Knopf sparen

[@TreudtLP]

Klasse Videos. Sehr lehrreich und dabei entstehen immer tolle Geräte, weiter so.

[@randyhavard6084]

Seems like a good hack for things that did not come with a remote as well as things with missing remotes

[@mariog1996ist]

+GreatScott! You could easily use pin change interrupt for waking up the atmega328p with the buttons you already had. There's no really need for an dedicated for wake up button.

[@stevieboi61]

i not skilled in this field but enjoyed ur vid & i learned something! thankyou for sharing. 👍

[@tutirjeh]

Why did you used a pro mini and not a nano?

[@wasanthawimaladharm]

Can you add learning function to add new remote buttons function with the help of ir reciver and extra switch as well

[@neirad537]

It's there like a two stage button that act like a shutter button of a camera where you can semi press it or fully press it? That way you don't need an extra button to wake it up. Or the controller required a bit of time to wake up before you can press any button?

[@ChunkySteveo]

Great little project Scott, a practical use for diy electronics and Arduino! Maybe as a follow up video some time - you could look (review) into using an online PCB supplier and create a smaller remote setup and then also design and print a case with Tinkercad/123D etc and your delta printer? A tech smorgasbord of a follow up video!?!

[@tunahankaratay1523]

The NPN BJTs are not necessary. Since the supply voltage comes from the same source, they have the same 5v and gnd. So you could directly connect the pins to the arduino pins with a pullup resistor.

[@EdwinNoorlander]

Why don't you use the original ATmega op de board en reprogramming that? It was only a dual layer board, so not hard to reengineer!?!

[@Jonas_Meyer]

Looks more like a one layer board and im not so sure how hard it would be. Definitly not impossible but not really a easy hack.

[@thedankoona_5854]

'op de'.. DUTCH

[@appelnonsurtaxe]

Before modifying the code you need to find it online.

[@Jonas_Meyer]

MrAnima If the engineers didnt disable it you could dump the hex data and decompile it into assembly and work with assembly. It is also possible to reverse engineer the circuite and sniff on protocals like i2c or spi if present with a logic analyzer.

[@EdwinNoorlander]

***** Yes, thats what I should do. That's a nice video

[@adhominems]

Have you considered making your own pcb for these more permanent projects that you interact with daily? That would reduce the size of your circuit, reduce error, and add to the over all aesthetic value of the end product.

[@TechieTrevor]

best video in a long while! keep up the great work! :)

[@BoomBrush]

Thats a really smart idea. Maybe use flexible filament to make squishy buttons?

[@ASerenidadeEstoica]

Another nice HACKED project... GreatJobMan

[@andrejbaca]

you can use plus and minus buttons as interpunts ? and wake up up it easily

[@hermandarr6274]

Another great scott project...rock on dude

[@GeeksTutorial]

You are a genius! keep it up!

[@hielkebaron7007]

awsome! i've learned a lot! but why didn't you use an attiny85? you can connect all the butons to one analog in by adding some resistors right? i think it would use less power and shrink down the project?

[@KhalilEstell]

Where did you put the receiver, such that the transmitter could transmit to it?

[@greatscottlab]

The receiver is now inside the subwoofer unit.

[@Andrew-nr1me]

Cool video! Can you move the IR transmitter LED to a different pin? If so, how? I don't see where you can define a pin number.

[@bur1t0]

My experience has been if you send a company an email asking for technical detail on a subject, usually they happily give you the information. Have you tried emailing Teufel regarding the IR codes for your model speaker?

[@danielpiotrowski1681]

Thumbs up for the video type variety! Wow, what a coincidence! I just pulled a 65 inch tv out of the trash. Unsurprisingly, the remote was not with it and a replacement is outrageously expensive. Unfortunately, this hack will not work as very few of the functions are laid out on the tv itself. Could you have used an attiny instead of the pro mini? Dan

[@Boffin55]

no need to add pull up/down resistors on your remote. Put the buttons from IO pin to ground, and set the io pins to INPUT_PULLUP instead of INPUT to use the Atmel processor's internal 40k pulluip.

[@tablatronix]

confused, was that not a ir receiver in there ?

[@wacko78jacko]

tablatronix, Correct, and a working RC is available from the manufacturer (Teufel)

[@paweljaworskipl]

Why not scan all the codes and build remote only? IR code scanner is great idea for a project.

[@neckslicer]

@@paweljaworskipl agree, however as he said, this is the only choice when you've lost the actual remote, you create your own with custom codes and the receiver triggers the buttons, that way you can still control it when you lose the remote.

[@redtech5246]

So the battery would last longer than the remote🤔🤔🤔🤔

[@DanelonNicolas]

Mr.. will you create a case for this peace of art? what's next with this project ?

[@elektrodenio]

Another great video! Thank you! One question:Where do you get the ideas for your projects?

[@greatscottlab]

From my environment, I would say.

[@ABSthescientist]

.

[@chickennugget2248]

Scott can you make high wattage inverter?

[@greatscottlab]

No

[@chickennugget2248]

+GreatScott! you mean yes or really no.

[@thebeginnerelectricalengin3717]

Probably no. High wattage inverters should be left to professional engineers (Not saying that Scott isn't one) but they often require high power precision components which are expensive, are hard to acquire and use.

[@MrNo4Name]

What piece of software do you use to create scematics?

[@greatscottlab]

EasyEDA

[@cristiansalas443]

thanks :)

[@NicolasBana]

Wasn't it possible to use some diodes to connect all 3 buttons to the "wake up" terminal ?

[@baconsledge]

Scott...this may be a worn out question but I will ask anyway. What kind of microphone do you use when recording? Your audio is excellent!

[@greatscottlab]

t.bone SC440

[@lordimac]

Why not use the original Teufel Remote?

[@greatscottlab]

I lost it

[@lordimac]

Ah okay :)

[@JugaadItYourselfJIY]

@great Scott can you make one WiFi remote which will be compatible with alexa?

[@90MrMan90]

Is it possible to exti the sleep mode by pressing one of the buttons instead of using on extra button? So you can save som space on you remote control.

[@mohamedroshdy4897]

how to use crystal oscillator ,and how to know does it work,and what are the electric calculation of oscillators

[@shangen2783]

Some suggestions: Instead of a 8 bit AVR why not use those super cheap PIC or ST microcontroller. Another way is to use a existing remote and reverse engineer it and program the receiver accordingly. Power consumption can be lowered with a slower clock speed. You might want to try that on the AVR.

[@shangen2783]

If you choose to go to AVR route, why not instead use a ATTINY. They are cheaper and they suit this application more.

[@rustbeltrestoration]

Scott, what is your soldering iron, and what wattage is it? Thanks

[@GypsyBackwards]

do you think you'd ever be willing to do a video on how to lay solder traces like you do on your perf boards? i've been trying it for awhile but i can't seem to get it right, they always overflow and make a mess.

[@geoninja8971]

Great work, now you just need a case for the remote.... or it will look like one of my projects!

[@atomipi]

you can use your input control switches to wakeup the atmel.. with 3x 1N4148 diodes as an OR gate to your wakeup input.

[@padmalayarawal3091]

Awesome tutorials 👍 Can you please tell that is it possible to get the arduino code which is uploaded on our board to our laptop ?

[@UnrealVideoDuke]

Why did you not hack the Atmel that was already in the speaker control?

[@Orion2223dz]

UnrealVideoDuke I think it's impossible to have all the code which is inside by retro-ingeneering

[@sameeryele]

+GreatScott! Which marker did you use to mark on the perf board?

[@RC-ij4je]

If you wanted to add a IR remote, what was the IR receiver that was already in the speaker control board for?

[@sebimoe]

Are there any advantages of using INPUT mode and pulling up with resistors rather than using INPUT_PULLUP and pulling down to ground directly? In the pull-up mode (PORTX and DDRX set = INPUT_PULLUP) the pin is pulled up to VCC with high value resistance.

[@baraahalabi]

Great Project ...But where can i found the low power library ??

[@maxximumb]

playground.arduino.cc/Code/Enerlib There are more to choose from.

[@baraahalabi]

Thanks for responding :)

[@maxximumb]

This might not be the one he uses, but it works well.

[@MrWilliam932]

Are the buttons of the subwoofer still usable?

[@cobaltdragon_5678]

yes they are still usable (the ATMEGA board is just an additionary option)

[@greatscottlab]

Yes

[@Arrviasto]

I think you could do it without transistors. When you connect your controller to common ground, simply setting pins low could do the trick. I'd only add some resistors for safety.

[@fredlllll]

why not use the power supply that is supplying the builtin atmega with power?

[@anoopsahal1202]

I can see your style of soldering is compatible with a trackless PCB

[@RC-ij4je]

I didn't understood, what was the ir reciever that already was in the board for?

[@Pvsmuntje]

Would you be able to measure the output of the remote (IR flashing) and turn that into a script to recreate the remote? Would it also be possible without an oscilloscope?

[@greatscottlab]

Yes, I already did a video about it. I think it is called "How to control your LEDs with a remote"

[@SharkLasers380]

+GreatScott! Ummm... where did you get that pen?

[@hopkinskong]

Why not hook up the 3 buttons on the interrupt pins (with wake up in sleep mode capibility)? So you don't need an extra button solely to wake up the processor.

[@rajchauhan8093]

this video is nice but I have a question how to make a homemade powerful subwoofer 2.1 home theater with simple circuit and how make a large loud home theater? please make a video about it.

[@Snow.2040]

you have to upload the bootloader if you want to use atmega 32p microcontroller

[@ravm84]

Nice but I think that waking up the CPU of you remote controller can be done without extra button "wake-up". I solved it in my project by connecting all available buttons to some Interrupt pin (lets assume that you configure this interrupt at pin value change, set this pin as input and pull down to 0). As far as I remember wake up from power saving mode can be configured by external interrupt so just single press of any button will wake cpu up and more you can put in this interrupt a procedure to detect which button was pressed without doing it in main loop. And even more I think that with such solution you can put CPU to sleep straight away after a signal was sent without any special delay, this would extend battery life cycle significantly.