Greg Long Discusses His Recovery, Big Waves, and the Key to Happiness - The Inertia

Greg Long is the most decorated big wave surfer of the modern age. The guy's a deep thinker too. Articulate. Calculated. Thoughtful. So sitting down with him and talking about life is always a treat. Enjoy.
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[@rosamrc923]

There is so much serenity in Greg. Very inspiring.

[@Theinertia]

Zen incarnate.

[@unseengreatness7958]

Long is the man!

[@clarkewi]

Survival. The ultimate ideology.

[@MrDeadsurfer]

He's come a long way from surfing the State Park.

[@mattlevy914]

count how many times he says "you know"

[@Blaze-xf2np]

Matt Levy why don't you shut up and listen to what he has to say you ignorant fool

[@nextari]

i guess you know what it's like to be a spokesman for one of the most challenging, radical sports in the history of mankind. Tell us, o Gladius.

[@evanarbo]

"you meow'"