Grundfos Alpha 2 will not start - Water pump electronic problem - Repair of the pump

In this video I show the repair of this water pump from Grundfos. Pump model: Alpha 2.This is also my first repairing project of circuit boards.
I do not guarantee that this repair will work on other pumps. Do your own research. This video is for entertainment purposes only.
Music by Bensound.com

[@MuggeDatenschutz]

Very professional, the non-destructive opening of the case was also well explained! Thank you very much, keep it up!

[@PaulKernOriginal]

Helped me! Bought many of the Cap 47µF 35V, because it was so cheap and I was afraid of the fixing process.. ripped the part with some pliers and soldered the new part just on top of the residues. works like a charm.

[@chlordk]

Thanks. I tried the "topping trick" but still got the same flickering error. I guess I couldn't make a good soldering. It's really annoying consumer products is that bad now a days.

[@HenrikMøllerJørgensen]

Brilliant! Worked fine here. I only had a 50V capacitor in the house. Time to fix : 90 minutes, minor problem was the force needed to push out electronics, I twisted them out, so I had to guide the pins from above at assembly. And at 5:18 I had to apply a mallet, to reseat the part.

[@penttiperasuoli5780]

Ahh thank you so much!! Was able to fix mine with these instructions too and saved like 430e for pump + plumbers cost! I did not need to detach the pump from the piping, just took the lid off and then the circuit. Luckily even had the capacitor in the shelf!

[@oranus5554]

Thank you for the video. My boiler pump decided to have this problem in a Sunday morning with -5°C outside temperatur 🥶 I changed the SMD capacitor with a normal (PCB) capacitor (47uF 25v) and it worked like a charm. Very helpful 👌

[@johnocallaghan7830]

Thank you for the video Simon. My 11 year old pump had this issue and this fix worked like a charm. I used a SMD electrolyte capacitor 47 uF/16V Ø6,3x5,8mm. I found an article on the internet about this in danish, where it states it is 16V, but you can probably use a 35V too without any problems.

[@Skaibl]

Thanks to this video I was able to fix my pump as well which had exactly the same problem. Woohoo!

[@ralfkappelmann3934]

Sollten Works also die my pump today!!! Thanks for the Video!!!

[@enjui]

Main PCB was being held stuck pretty hard to the plastic case but after some wiggling I got the PCB out of the case. After soldering the new cap the pump now works perfectly. Thank you for uploading this video!

[@sergiovisentin3607]

thank you Simon Just had the same issue yesterday and today pump works perfectly only had some issues getting access to the pc board of the pump it's very tricky not wanting to damage anything. Thanks again for your advice

[@Rasmus_123]

I have just followed the instruction. It works perfect. I couldn’t get the replacement part mounted just above the print - so it mounted it 2mm above using a lot of tin. That was easier to solder as there are limited space. It was a little hard getting the print out - it was required to wiggle / push pressure on the areas where the metal pieces from the connectors go into the print. The pump now works again after the component was replaced 😊

[@Edvard-Aliev]

Помог! Спасибо мужик! Похоже это типовой случай, исправил с десяток таких по твоему видео и у всех одна ☝️ проблема 😮

[@jok5634]

Thanks a lot! Worked for me also. 400€ for new pump vs 0,20€ for capacitor was worth trying.

[@jens7005]

Hi, thank you so much for this video, it just saved me a lot of money. I couldn't separate the plastic case, but could use pliers to carefully pry the old capacitor free from the PCB. Then I soldered an ordinary capacitor of 47 uF, it takes up a little more space, but there is plenty of space. Best regards, Jens

[@Rasmus_123]

Did you solder without taking the print out of the case?

[@durop-u5r]

I have the same blinking issue and decided to give it a try since I had anything to lose... It actually worked out! My pump is running again, awesome video! Now I have hundreds of these 47µF 35V Cap since I could not buy just one... : D Still 10 EUR fix...

[@fionnan2811happy]

You have a lot of patience. Well done 👏 and thanks for the video 👍👍

[@MrMacmantre]

Just fixed mine with help of this video, thank you very much!

[@akrynum]

Hey! I have the same problem! And i have fix the problem with your tutorial! It works 100%! Thanks a lot for your time to make the video!!

[@jeanlemenager2701]

Excellente procédure. Merci beaucoup. J'ai remplacé le condensateur par un modèle 47uF 35V tantale. Attention. le repère sur un condensateur tantale correspond au (+).

[@filippofuelluz5399]

thanks a lot for your video! It can be very useful for me.

[@oxen66]

Tak for din video. Den virkede for mig, og sparede mig for et par tusind kr.

[@ThomasHolz-cz1up]

It works - excellent and Thanks for this information! Funktioniert super! Vielen Dank!

[@ronrobson5076]

Perfect solution - thanks a lot !

[@viking2045]

Worked for me, as well! Huge Thank You!👍

[@jardadvorak4921]

big thanks. i had the same problem and this fix helped. 👍

[@modellbahnagenda]

Thank you so much 👍👍👍

[@martin43202]

Please note the polarity of the electrolytic capacitor, black is minus. This type of electrolytic capacitor can be removed with flat nose pliers. Then collect the pins with a fine soldering iron.

[@4377paul]

Actually big electrolytic capacitor (big round thing) failure are common cause of problems. Easy to replace with small soldering iron.

[@SuperMmxx]

super 👍 opravené ....

[@tobiask.8337]

Good job! :)

[@ikoskiriazidis5080]

thanks so much!

[@tinchenwilli]

Hat funktioniert 👍

[@martin43202]

Please note the polarity of the electrolytic capacitor, black is minus. This type of electrolytic capacitor can be removed with flat nose pliers. Then collect the pins with a fine soldering iron. The electrolytic capacitor should have 47uF and 16V?!

[@PaulKernOriginal]

47µF 35V

[@zoltanmako1804]

Big help!

[@kbe9947]

For a few cents extra it may be possible to replace this electrolytic capacitor with a ceramic or tantalum capacitor that doesn't dry out. It depends on the exact function. Does anyone know what this capacitor is for?

[@mikejohnson1539]

Great video, thanks. Where did you get the capacitor from please ?

[@simonsprojects8028]

Thank you for your comment. I had it from another pump that was defective. Maybe there is a capacitor that has the same properties? Unfortunately I do not know much about capacitors but there must be someone else on youtube who knows if you can find a replacement.

[@gabiold]

@@simonsprojects8028 Farnell, TME, Arrow, RS Components, Mouser, Digikey are the most well-known electronics components distributors.

[@FirstLuckyLook]

My electronics unit burned out. I would like to operate the pump with a model building brushless driver ESC. Can you please state the voltage for the motor coils? The capacitor is for 35V, so I guess it's 12-24V?

[@justinodevries]

Our pump doesnt show lights, wont turn on with cable in it.. would this be the same problem?

[@akrynum]

I have the same problem. Do you can write the type of both capacitors? Thanks

[@oxen66]

Jeg kan ikke få printet ud af huset som du kan. Det ser så nemt ud, men hos mig sidder det godt nok fast. Er det ligegyldigt hvad størrelse den nye har, hvis bare specifikationerne er de rigtige?

[@CNC_craft]

WD40

[@Rasmus_123]

Fik du læst problemet?

[@pauljames9094]

What are you doing with white pen like implement around the capacitor?

[@TriAxleTranny]

Looks like a low temperature alloy used to aid component removal from the PCB. This video explains better than I can kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYbHZYalrLF4kJY

[@micronetwork]

White pen is solder flux

[@mickaelbaray7845]

Merci pour l'expertise et le partage. Je viens de réparer pour qq centimes ! Thanks !👍

[@petrodzyuba4491]

it is not clear from video: when power is applied, do the rotor start to spin?

[@allanstrand638]

How to connect electrical for testing ?

[@philj.3085]

can you tell me which capacitor i need i have the same fault

[@Macmacci]

SMD CES 47u/35V