Stupid Simple Jig for Forging Coils / Springs

[@practicalman45]

I made a similar jig for making coil handles for wood stove doors. It was 1" diameter winding rod (cold rolled round shafting), and I wrapped 1/8" music wire around it continuously while heating it red with an oxy-acetylene cutting torch just before the bending point. Instead of holding the tail end by hand, I put another rod (1/2" rebar) parallel to the winding rod and 2" away from it to hold the stiff music wire against. I had one hand on the torch, one on the winding crank, and could wrap 6 foot of the music wire tightly onto the rod. It made (2 ) stove handle "springs" at one time in about 5 minutes. The coils from the 1" round rod slipped over the end of the 1/4x1" flat bar latch used for the stove door "heat proof" handles. The handles were not heat treated as springs after forming, but were still pretty stiff coils just as the normalized music wire. They got welded on with the mig.

[@gstongs]

An oxy-acetylene torch would definitely make this go smoother by localizing heat. I'm going to revisit this and see what improvements I can make without getting too involved. Thanks for sharing your method - I'm sure more than few folks found it useful.

[@firesafe8417]

I used to work at a machine shop and had to make springs for check valves. You are on the right track, but instead of putting your stock in the handle, you should make a hook that goes into the hole that you drilled into the handle. That way when you are done winding the coils will come off much easier without cutting.

[@wingnutbert9685]

Or weld on an "L" shaped tab. Depth and height of the leg on the L is just enough for the dia. of your stock. Thick cross section scrap bit of angle iron, modified to fit works well. Piece of 1"x 1/4-3/8" flat bar, on edge, with a notch as well. ...... Just scrolled down and read. Looks like tabs have been suggested as well as making rings and using cheater bars. So everyone beat me to those suggestions. Only other I have, If you want more even spiral is to cut out a stiff, thick strip of paper. Wrap it around the mandrel and mark a line along where the edges touch. If you want a 1/2" space between turns, use a 1/2" strip of paper, etc. Use a marker to mark the line and go over it with a dremel, die grinder or file to make it permanent, if you wish. Also, make a mandrel out of square stock to get some different shaped coils or rings.

[@gstongs]

I was hoping to avoid welding of any kind though your hook idea may work without welding and would be a better way - allowing the coil to be slipped on and off without cutting. Thanks.

[@gstongs]

Very good suggestions. I was wanting to avoid welding but the welded on L is an obvious solution. I appreciate you taking time to comment in depth. Thanks.

[@mattburchett6921]

I used to have some of the exact same issues rolling rings for making chainmail years ago. If you welded a sleeve horizontally on your crank arm that you can slip the work piece into you can slide the coil on and off as you work it.

[@gstongs]

Yes, that's a good idea. I was hoping to avoid any sort of welding but that would definitely make things more convenient. I'm going to give this another go and see... Thanks.

[@paulorchard7960]

Thanks Glen, I can already see a use for something like that!

[@nkortes]

I did a similar jig once, just larger. Istead of the hole, I just used vise grips to hold the piece down. Because getting the piece free was my problem with half inch round (stiff stuff) so grips make it easy...

[@gstongs]

The vise grips idea did cross my mind as I've done something similar before. Thanks for watching and sharing your method.

[@messylaura]

i would have welded a tube parallel to the bar instead of the hole you drilled then you put the first heat into the tube, turn it 90 degrees then start coiling, that way you can slide the coil off and keep heating it without the bar, just cut off the beginning 90 when done.

[@gstongs]

That's a very good and unique idea. I was hoping to avoid welding of any kind but that would definitely make things easier. I will have another go and see what I can come up with. Thanks.

[@billflint3369]

What if you welded in a piece of rod in the hole and had the tail coming out and running parallel to the turning rod but far enough away so that you could capture the hot rod when Turin g and then just be able to slide the spring off and on as required? Thanks for all the great videos you give us for our education and entertainment.

[@gstongs]

That would be ideal. But Im trying to avoid any welding, if possible. I'm pondering comments like yours and will rethink this some and see... Thanks.

[@billflint3369]

@@gstongsHello Glen, in stead of welding could flair both sides of the hole or make the hole oval and then upset the keeper rod in the hole . Then take the tail of the keeper rod and bend it in line with the main rod. Just ideas that may or may not work.

[@gstongs]

I think you hit upon the solution that will work for me. Thanks.

[@shortfuse43]

Now, that's a pretty slick tool...thanks for posting! Gotta rig up one of those. Looked like third time was charmed for the coil...LOL I use a coal forge, so it would be easier to put the working coil in the fire to continue to heat and wind longer rods/coils.

[@gstongs]

I'm thinking it would be best to not put this actually jig in the fire but sort out another way to secure the piece being coiled without inserting into a hole. Working on it... Thanks.

[@thoperSought]

that was really interesting. it worked surprisingly well once you got the process down.

[@gstongs]

It always takes a few tries... I have some other ideas. Let's see... Thanks.

[@thoperSought]

@@gstongs looking forward to it!

[@BrianDaleNeeley]

I thought you made a bracket at 6:30 into the video (something like I had been thinking of), but it was the light shining under the pipe in the vise. Maybe adding some sort of tab or bar sticking off of the pipe? Your solution has the advantage of being the simplest for low volume and one off pieces. The diameter of the coil will change, the size of the stock will change, the spacing between the coils will change, etc... But it's about as simple a coiling jig as possible. Thanks for sharing with us.

[@gstongs]

Tha tab idea is solid. I was hoping to avoid any welding and so will think about this some and see what I can come up with. As you can see, I was going for the most basic setup possible but I will revisit this and see if I can make some improvements. Thanks.

[@kensmapleleafretirement]

Thank you for making this video and showing us this jig.

[@gstongs]

It's my pleasure. Thanks for supporting my channel.

[@wolfparty4234]

I can see where you are going with this. I do have some ideas to help you to improve on it.

[@gstongs]

After posting this, I also have a couple of different ideas. Thanks for watching.

[@k.c.meaders4796]

I didn't see this earlier. Instead of drilling at the, crank, cut the end of the crank piece with an open end to accept the rod. Run the crank through the tube from the other end than you do in the video and proceed. when finished, just slip the rod off the end of the rod or withdraw the rod through the tube and the coil will fall free, no cutting, but you probably already figured that out by now!

[@johnjude2685]

Yes looking forward to using it Thanks

[@gstongs]

I will have another go at this and see what improvements I can make. But this works in a pinch... Thanks.

[@gurvinderkau1e5w18]

Wow! amazing jig for coiling.

[@gstongs]

It's a start and can definitely be improved upon. Thanks.

[@shanek6582]

Instead of the hole you might weld a spacer the size of the spring and then a short stub to hold the hot spring, you could just slide it off then

[@gstongs]

This is a good idea but I was hoping to avoid welding of any kind. But that would work much better. Thanks.

[@EdgePrecision]

If you drill the hole in the leg of the handle. Than you could slide the coil on and off the mandrel without sawing and also to heat it more times.

[@gstongs]

This is the current problem needing solving. Lots of good suggestions in the comments about how to improve this. I will revisit this soon. Thanks.

[@neilyeag]

I like those small vice grip size tongs that you used!

[@gstongs]

Those are some real mini-tongs. I frequently use them and was even thinking of offering that size for sale but I think most guys would not find them suitable. Good hearing from you. Thanks.

[@neilyeag]

@@gstongs I think they have some applications like what you were doing, where you need some real grip and leverage on a part.

[@richardbryant7972]

I did something like that, but spread out more for pen and pencil holders

[@gstongs]

I'm going to do some variations on this for different projects. Thanks.

[@markfryer9880]

I had captions on at the start and it described banging the rod on the Anvil with a hammer as music.

[@gstongs]

Ha! That may be accurate as that sound is music to many blacksmiths' ears. Thanks for sharing that.

[@christina9alls]

Speech to text algorithm is obviously partial to blacksmithing!

[@alphaalpaca520]

You wouldn't have to cut the top part of your spring if you moved your hole to the front of your jig. This would give you the option to take as many heats as you need without heating your jig.

[@gstongs]

That's an interesting idea. I worked on an alternative style that also allows me to remove the workpiece without cutting. Should show a video of that soon. Thanks.

[@dennisobrien3618]

This reminds me of watching videos of making gun barrels out of twist Damascus. Steve Culver has a good one, as well as one called "Cannons Damas la Fabrication" posted by didierhenry1 from 1931, I believe.

[@gstongs]

I need to check that out. Thanks for watching.

[@SuperiorEtchworx]

That would be a good way to make rings

[@gstongs]

Yes, for sure. I'm going to explore this one more. Thanks.

[@danielcrawford7315]

So that's pretty neat. Interesting jig you came up with. Now I've a question for the more knowledgeable masses. I have a spring, real spring from a break chamber. I want to coil it tighter and use it for a particular project. Using your process I can get it the way i need it. Now i take it above critical and cycle it 1 or 2 times...right? Then take it up again n quench in...oil? Or water? Then temper cycle it in oven at 475 for 2 hrs 1 time? 2 times? What do yall.think?

[@gstongs]

The heat treat really depends on the type of steel. I don't have a lot experience using spring grade steels. You could certainly coil spring steel with this method though it may take more heats depending on the stock thickness and amount you need to coil. I am working on a jig without a hole - something that could be slipped on and off without cutting. As far as heat treating your spring steel, you may have to do some trial and error. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Thanks.

[@danielcrawford7315]

@@gstongs , thank you for your insight and honesty. I do truely like your style and content, always thinking a bit out of the box. Great guy, thank you. 🙏 blessed days sirSir Crawford out 🧙‍♂️

[@wint3rsmith42]

nice way to make handles, thanks for sharing

[@gstongs]

I really think this would make a super handle and will give that a go at some point. Thanks.

[@FoxRunForge]

That Sir is 1 nice idea and I also would like to ask how do you keep your anvil so nice looking? May God Bless you and your family Greatly

[@gstongs]

I often use but don't abuse my anvils. And I spray them with WD-40 frequently which helps keep rust at bay. Thanks for your well wishes; I wish you the same.

[@MrMarkRoads]

Got me thinking... I sent you a drawing.

[@erikcourtney1834]

That be an easy way to make your own coil springs out of 5160 bar or similar. How hot does your forge get? Hard to tell off videos.

[@gstongs]

My small single burner forge can reach welding temperature but I rarely dial it up that high. You're right - the color you see in videos is deceiving as the camera and my outdoor location alter what you see to some degree. I probably run at just below 1000 degrees Celsius for most of my work. Thanks.

[@CarpinteroJesus]

I think that you should put some kind of hook instead of the hole so you can remove the spring to reheat it as many times as you like

[@lukecope4212]

A bit late, but thanks Jerry!!!!

[@christina9alls]

What if the hole was on the tip of the shaft? and what if instead of a hole, it were a slot that would let the coil slip off entirely when you were done? EDIT: Also, what was the length on your stock that you coiled? I'd rather not have to do trial and error if you've already done it for us!

[@InTheFleshInc]

Exactly on point great thinking I get what you mean like a cut out notch on end the it would slide reverse off handle rod.

[@jackarecito7270]

Very nice job

[@superpedro7295]

I am going to implement some of that in my weapons

[@gstongs]

I think you can take this idea much further. Good luck in your work. Thanks.

[@ademdogan7213]

Cool.

[@gstongs]

Thanks.

[@enzorocha2977]

Stupid simple is the perfect phrase. Emphasis on the first part.

[@Staratel]

👍👍👍

[@gstongs]

Thanks for watching.

[@grandadz_forge]

I just curl them around my finger. NOT! Lol

[@gstongs]

Ha! Now talk about a video that could go viral... I'd watch that a thousand times myself. Thanks.

[@Макс-к5э4л]

Просто как пареная репа

[@gstongs]

Thanks for watching and commenting.