How to Care for Your Gun and Stock ~ Don't Kill it With Kindness!

[@charlesgiovanetti]

You have taught me more about caring for my guns in a few minutes than I have learned in 59 years of owning and using firearms

[@BrassCatcher365]

This man truly is a credit to firearm ownership.

[@loulunetta425]

Nice video. Every new gun owner should view this. I inherited my Grandfathers .32 Stevens Favorite built around 1920. It was a mess after sitting in my fathers closet for 40 years. The finish was sticky and the wooden foregrip and stock had black stains. I took a slightly different approach from yours for restoration. After disassembly, I scraped the stock and foregrip, with a razor blade to remove the sticky finish. Then cleaned and degreased with paint thinner, Then acetone to make sure all the grease and oil was out of the wood. I bleached out the black stains with some oxalic acid solution. Then used teak cleaner ( 2 part ) on the whole stock for uniform color. For the finish: I used a filler stain on the stock and grip. 2. Buffed it down and applied 3 coats of BLO over 3 days. 3 Let it sit for 7 days. 3. Next apply 2 coats of shellac 4. Allow to dry overnight. 4. Use 0000 Steel wool and Carnauba Wax and rub out the wood. The satin finish still give it the 100 yo look. I did not use Varnish or Poly because they chip and scratch. With shellac you can touch up easily or wipe it all off with alcohol. .32 Rimfire Ammo is obsolete now, so the Favorite sits on its stand and I remember the summer day in 1960 when my Grandfather let me shoot it for the first time in Franklin Park - but that is another story. BTW : I was taught Paint Thinner for carbon, mineral oil for lube and protection and Lubraplate on the moving metal.

[@onpsxmember]

Move on from razor blades and make scrapers yourself, give the burr and have the shape you want. Do you got pictures online?

[@Jeff_Seely]

We truly live in the era where everything we hear, watch, and read, we should question (to put to trial and to the test). Some sources are so fundamentally flawed, so repetitiously, that I wont even consider the content for validity-testing. I just assume it is garbage There is only one place that I get information from, where I don't test the validity of the content and it is the GunBlue490 youtube channel. And those guns you showed, captain, are absolutely gorgeous! Take care and may God bless!

[@robertlennihan3113]

100%

[@xjwhitewing7367]

How can you not just listen and learn from his decades of experience and expertise without coming away with respect and thankfulness for his sharing

[@JacobBerry-lo3bm]

Seriously 💯

[@LKaramazov]

I’m glad you mentioned LSA has to be shaken. I had gotten some and it was clear, not thick and white, like in your video. I figured it needed to be shaken, but I wasn’t sure if it was just too old. I remember you said they dont make it anymore, and I think the can I got said it was from a while back.

[@destroyingdadxx2274]

Hi Gunblue. Thanks for another great video. It looks like it’s going to be a beautiful day today here in NH. Hopefully you and your M1A can find your way to the range! Have a good weekend.

[@GunBlue490]

Thanks! My task today is to winterize the boat and put it up for the winter. This beautiful calm air won't fight the tarp. I generally avoid the crowded range on weekends. I ran a number of powders and test loads through it the other day and things were quite interesting, so I'll have some things to present very soon.

[@TTT-du6oj]

Thanks Gunblue for all the great advice,very important to know these things,God Bless

[@_asher]

Thank you for this video, I had saved up and bought a very nice set of old remington long guns. I immediately took them apart cleaned up the grime and oiled them, now taking them apart again to clean off any of the excess oil! Had no idea it hurt the wood so bad

[@FloridaGuns]

Every time I watch one of your videos I learn something new about gun care. I am a newer shooter (20 years or so) but always try to get knowledge from Firearms Enthusiasts that have more experience than I do. Especially when it comes to older guns and milsurps. Unfortunately a lot of my older friends have passed away and with them I have the honor of carrying on their firearms and knowledge. I try to pass the knowledge on but always appreciate that there is always knowledge that I can soak up like a sponge. Keep up the great videos brother!

[@blackscotydog]

This knowledge is absolute solid gold.....Thank you for sharing.

[@alfredbryant8328]

Since you’re so knowledgeable and accurate I figure id contribute the term “open grain” to the wood pore description you offered for the Beretta silver pigeon over under shotgun

[@gizmocarr3093]

I used wood stocks in long periods of rain and cold wet weather. Using a good wood wax or sealer inside and out, wood has no problem lasting more than 100 years. Mineral oil has no additives and makes it important to use. The product called Rig made by Birchwood Casey Universal Grease works better or as well as mineral oil for the same reason. Bluing is rust, using a rust-removing lubricant will over time remove bluing. Wood needs more attention in dry conditions the same as wet. Letting them in a hot car will damage wood stock finishes and plastics. Long exposure to sunlight is damaging too. Think about how old the tree was the stock came from; add the years it might have taken to cure the blank. Add the years of the age of the firearm and fine tight grain wood is likely closer to 200 years old. Plastic firearms do not hold the value of wood and steel firearms. 🤔🙂 You sure gave excellent advice on this video subject.👍

[@3ducs]

Thanks for the tip on flax seed oil. I've searched for raw linseed oil but have never been able to find it except in small, artist's sized amounts. Raw linseed oil used to be used to preserve the wooden gutters on old New England houses.

[@GunBlue490]

Boiled linseed oil is quite readily available at any hardware store wherever I've been. Flax seed oil/ raw linseed oil has no driers and will not harden for up to seven weeks. It's commonly found in the same aisle as paint thinner and other painting supplies.

[@chaimafaghet7343]

Linseed oil is used on cricket bats, if all else fails look for bat oil.

[@3ducs]

@@GunBlue490 Not at my local Aubuchon. But there are sources that sell it for around $49/gal. I want to use it for wood preservation on my house.

[@cjr4286]

You can buy raw linseed oil from Garand Gear, as well as tung oil.

[@onpsxmember]

@@3ducs But why? Modern finishes can take more abuse and add UV-protection.

[@terrystover7365]

I've watched several of your videos more than once. This is one of them. Thank you.

[@SgtToastieYT]

A note for older firearm stocks, some have a shellac finish over the linseed oiled stock (common for Russian/USSR) and linseed or any other oil on top of shellac won't do much. You can identify shellac by its reaction with alcohol (spot test), take the time to research proper care of historic shellac finishes. Shellac is easily refinished and repaired without removing the original coating. Really great advice on "less is more" for the care of firearms.

[@jeffkeller9009]

Your knowledge and expertise is priceless, Thank you for passing on your knowledge. Enjoy your videos.

[@thesh111t]

Thanks for another great video. Perhaps you could help me to understand more about not lubricating semi automatic rifles (specifically the AR15 you mentioned). In shooting classes, I've seen more than a few AR-15s stop running. The instructor has helped them to get them running and each time the "fix" was to lubricate them. These classes often use 4 or 500 rounds in a dirty dusty conditions. I haven't got near the experience you do, over the decades you have, so I'm not doubting you. I would just like some more clarifications. Thanks again for your time

[@adam8642]

Funny, I use boiled linseed on the wood on my boat and was thinking it would be great on my gun. Thanks for this.

[@chrishynes6091]

Artist oil paints are also linseed oil based; a painting takes weeks to dry too, unless a chemical drier is used. For the steel I generally use Balistol. I've heard that it is mineral oil based; not sure though. I'll be sure to get a bottle of mineral oil also, I'd like to try that out... should be great for kitchen knives too. For more long term, I like Fluid Film applied to a rag. It's lanolin based. You have some great informative videos.. thank you! If I was a young lad again at this time I don't think I'd ever play a video game as long as you had these vids to watch 👍

[@GunBlue490]

I absolutely do not recommend Ballistol. It is water soluble, which means that it will not resist water. It soaks and darkens walnut, and its water soluble nature offers no protection for either wood or steel. Despite the claims, it only appeared on shelves in recent years. Do this simple test: in one glass, pour some mineral oil, and Ballistol into the other. Pour an equal amount of water into both and stir. The Ballistol will immediately become a white fluid mixture while the other will remain separate. Place Ballistol on a metal spoon and see what happens when you rinse it with plain water. Nothing that absorbs water or rinses off can possibly protect against water.

[@TheGreatDicktater]

@@GunBlue490 Just came here to ask about Ballistol; I got some for free and that is what I've been using. I've read that it, being primarily mineral oil, is less offensive if it ends up on wood. Needless to say I'll be purchasing mineral oil in the future once I empty this can. Your wisdom is appreciated!

[@14goldmedals]

The reason Balistol is water soluble is that the base oil is canola oil (what we old chaps grew up calling rapeseed oil).

[@GunBlue490]

@@14goldmedals Yes, but anything that mixes with water is certainly not capable of repelling water, which is the primary intent. They've done a great job selling expensive snake oil in my opinion. It appeared on dealer shelves suddenly only a number of years ago, besides stacks of printed literature and historical claims that look pretty fictitious to me. The German army used oil that washes off in the rain? I don't think so.

[@14goldmedals]

@@GunBlue490 it’s water solubility is the reason I’ll never use it. I live in the North half of Alberta and when I hunt there’s usually snow on the ground. No matter how well you plan, your rifle and scope are going to get covered in snow. I’ll stick with a mineral oil based protectant. It’s worked since the 1980’s for me just like it did for the two generations before me that came to the Great White North fleeing Stalin from Ukraine 🇺🇦🇨🇦

[@timblack6422]

Learning is about being open to new knowledge and people being willing to disseminate that knowledge. Thank you!

[@herman66mi83]

Wonderful video, as usual! Always look forward to your explanation as there’s always something I learn. Because of your knowledge and experience; thank you!

[@henrysara7716]

Just knowledge at glance. Thank you for posting.

[@tw0one208]

Gunblue is the reason I roam the eastern deer woods with a 1956 Model 94 in 30-30, and not a ten pound Remington 700 with a bipod a 3-9 power scope.. Thanks for the advice. Always glad to know how to best take of my investment.

[@payres48]

Thank you again sir for sharing you knowledge and wisdom with us. Best wishes from Australia.

[@jth877]

Crazy. I have a model 94, in 32win special purchased at County Stores in Milford, NH in 1959. Less than 20 rounds through it. In the original Winchester box.

[@krumpchaos]

Just wanna say thanks for the video's, this is only my 2nd video an you got my attention, i now follow you, great job

[@kbjerke]

Excellent advice, thank you. Most of my firearms see very little, if any, shooting, as they are over (or close to) a century old. When I rotate my display, or want to pay particular attention to one, I apply a *VERY* light treatment of conservator's wax, specifically Renaissance brand. The guns all stay in perfect condition. My "shooters" get the same treatment! Stay well! (Subscribed!)

[@TorLangvand]

I also use Renaissance Wax on my guns, and also my holsters every now and then. Its the only thing you can use on holsters, according to Milt Sparks 🙂.

[@kbjerke]

@@TorLangvand 73 de Karl, VE3GUN

[@jeffpittman8725]

Fantastic as always. Interesting to see when actual knowledge comes up against misguided advice. Thank you!

[@chrismills4213]

Here is some very good advice folks…love hearing the practical advice that is just common sense. Thank you and God bless.

[@steveedington5231]

Great video my friend you have taught me alot.I have a few cracks in the stock of my ithaca 37 shotgun I bought in 1978 after I ets from the army.I agree I believe the oil drained into the wood .Thank you for the video.

[@robbyrocksoo]

I have a 32 Special Winchester also. I have never seen one like mine with half hex, and half round barrel though.

[@GunBlue490]

At one time, Winchester, Marlin, and Savage all offered special factory ordered options, so there are very unique rifles out there. I have seen barrels such as yours in the older vintage Model 1894. I believe that special orders were discontinued by most manufacturers by the 1920s.

[@chuckvt5196]

I turned 70 this year, and I don't look near that good! Great video and info! THanks!

[@dene1196]

Thank you for taking time to make this video, I always learn something new from you.

[@generitaldato794]

Good Advice but living here in the tropical south Florida heat and humidity other measures may need to be taken to keep the metal and wood from rusting and rotting.

[@captainamerica3531]

Most excellent. A real pro.

[@garypark9934]

Wonderful video , I watched a man spray oil into a pre war model 94 win. The rifle was passed down to him fro his father, that was passed from his grandfather. He wanted to be sure he could pass it to his children. The argument we made ,was this. "Hey friend ,the rifle is in excellent condition now because it was never hosed down with oils until it dripped from the action. " He hangs the rifle over his wood stove as a proud display. This makes the wood as thirsty as possible .Then he gives it a good hose down with spray oils. I've watched this rifles wonderful stock stain and Crack in just 7 years time. What do I do He asked. Listen ...7 years ago. He has a wonderful collection of pictures of his grandfather standing next to deer strapped over the finder of his 1939 Ford truck. Big smile, Rifle in hand. His father in 1958 same rifle next to a game pole with a nice buck. Now that rifle has been killed with kindness. Sadly when he adds his picture to this rifles legacy .it will be sporting a new boyed stock. Perhaps if we could of explained this as you have here . Things may have been different. Sad end to a legacy firearm. On a brighter note , just a couple days ago. I put a nice deer in the freezer with my father's 1955 94 win. It's never seen anything but what my father called butcher block oil. Which of course is " mineral oil" And damn little of that. Sound wisdom. Thank you

[@GunBlue490]

That's all so unfortunately true. Thank you for sharing and congrats on that deer!

[@redtobertshateshandles]

You can always fit a new stock. Rusted metal is gone. It's his choice.

[@marshallfrazier915]

Thank you Sir for your valuable information, I found your channel this morning and you have been very helpful.

[@hotajax]

You mean I can't spend $12 for some high cost boutique oil and soak the hell out it? Great video.

[@gordielachance2659]

Hug Benny 👍. Thanks for the information as always.

[@whiskeykilmer1866]

Thanks for another great video, GunBlue.

[@gst69man]

good vid tks, how about a vid on when you can dry fire a wide range of firearms. I have seen your dry fire vid for a 1911, but would like a survey vid on how to decide if you can dry fire firearms rifles and pistols. Tks.

[@Ray-ru3pc]

forgive me but this is hard to follow for me. I’m not sure if you’re referring to overoiling or simply oiling. When i clean my guns i use a solvent on the bore and then wipe it clean followed by a patch with oil to keep the bore lubricated. I also oil the internals of the gun and wipe a thin coat of oil on the exterior in the same way that you did with the cloth.

[@marcroche9324]

Now I don't feel so bad about keeping my 33 year old Win 1894 ,30/30 up in the rafters since I quit hunting (Rifle Zone) 30 years ago. It still looks new. You will watch this Expert's long videos to their end. Tip after tip after tip....

[@sigaso28]

I learned so much. I used to drink my boiled linseed oil but no more

[@hansblitz7770]

I've been makin sketti with it for years

[@JG54206]

I also think this could be a byproduct of oiling after shooting and then putting away. If you oil moving metal parts and then shoot the gun, usually most of the excess is expelled during firing and cycling of the action and you’ll be left with whatever was not expelled.

[@abbeybremner4162]

We are truely privileged sir to have non BS advice we can trust without second guessing. You’re employment history ensures the advice is accurate. Much utube information I question, yours- never

[@renaissanceman4054]

nice to have some affirmation on using regular mineral oil, buddies bust my balls about it

[@aronsingletary]

Any recommendations on what to do for a gun with an over oiled stock?

[@rammbostein]

Regarding the checkering, the one on my Remington 870 Express looks like it was pressed in the wood. Overall not to bad, it's just for home defense and target shooting

[@cenccenc946]

I have a soft spot for the 870, as it was my first new shotgun as a kid. However, the 870 express is such a mass produced and cheap gun (and one of the greatest too), I would not be too concerned about it loosing its collector value in 100+ years (unless you left it in the box). Enjoy it. It is a fine tool, with minimal care, that will be working for decades to come; but, exactly because it is such a great gun, there will probably be millions of working examples in circulation for generations.

[@commentatron]

Am I missing something? The mineral oil cloth is primarily hitting the rifle's metal parts, but looks like it's not shy about going over the wood, to some extent. Is that the intentional; should I be going over my walnut Garand stock with a light coat of mineral oil?

[@cjr4286]

I have to admit I've never understood why refinishing decreases the value of a gun. Personally, I would be willing to pay MORE for a firearm that's been refurbished, assuming that said refurbishments use period-correct techniques to make the gun look the way it did the day it left the factory I draw an anology with classic cars. If I had a choice between a classic car that was all original, but the paint was deteriorating, and a classic car that had been repainted to be bright and shiny to give it new life, I would go for the latter and be willing to pay more for that one vs. the old "beater." My issue comes from people fundamentally altering the nature of the firearm, i.e. adding picatinny rails or something that disregards the historic nature of a firearm. If it's simply refurbished, then I actually like that. I suppose value is all in the taste of the collector, though, just like the different philosophies surrounding the old "Ship of Thucydides" question.

[@johnjriggsarchery2457]

Thank you!!

[@rikertvonfulton16]

The don't touch the gun metal with my hands. If I do by accident, I take a lightly oiled cloth and give the metal a going over.

[@jefflanham1080]

I am absolutely HORRIFIED right now……..I’m guilty as sin on the oil issue!! The Tipton vise is going to be busy for the next 3 days and nights fixing my fallacies.

[@ukwan]

I don't oil my guns, never have never will, I leave them out for a hour after shooting if it was cold outside, allow the condensation evaporate, wipe them down with a cotton cloth then put them away in a warm house in the gun safe. Guess what, they don't rust and they don't break and the wood isn't saturated with oil. I'm not a mechanical engineer or a gun smith, but I am an electrical engineer and a former Luthier and I've worked with my fair share of wood through the years, believe me wood doesn't like oil or too much moisture of any kind. Most gun stocks are finished from the factory and that is enough to keep them in good shape if you just dry them off and store them somewhere sensible.

[@Burritosarebetterthantacos]

I have a m series carbine from wwii. It looks almost new as well.

[@charlesvickers4804]

Been seeing pine tar and bees wax used to referbish old gun stocks.

[@SuperOlds88]

I have two shotguns from the 60s, an Auto 5 and a Charles Daly 0/U. years and years of carrying the guns through heavy brush, plum thickets, every kind of brush and cover, even corn is tough on guns. The bluing is missing from the bottom of the receivers, the finish is worn off the bottom of both the forearms and stocks. So what, the guns are used. I always wiped the guns down with a sparsely oiled rag, not heavy, just almost a dry rub, so nothing was left to run down into wood. Never stored the guns in sleeves after they got wet, let them air out then wiped them down. They dont look like showroom guns, they look like guns that are used. The wood is rubbed up but not cracked anywhere. I shot a couple times at a local trap range with them, at night using hunting loads, had to use them up. The guys laughing because the fire was coming 3 ft out the end of the barrel, I couldnt see it but my dad could. Screw em, most of those guys didnt actually hunt, we did. We always tried to error on using less oil than soaking it down just like the gentleman who runs this channel. Thank you.

[@joepiker]

This is off topic, but what is happening with your timber-frame project? Did I miss some videos about it?The one that I saw about your cutting the joints was great.

[@GunBlue490]

Due to weather inclemency followed by a spinal injury, I suspended construction until spring. I'll keep everyone posted!

[@joepiker]

@@GunBlue490 sorry to hear about your injury. I hope it heals well, I really appreciate your videos....from a carpenter and dog lover.

[@onpsxmember]

@@GunBlue490 Have you ever tried an inclination table? I gifted one to a friend of mine that had back issues from his military service and have one myself. It gives the discs some rest from the presssure if the doc gives the ok based on organs being upside down a few minutes. The cheap ones are a hazard.

[@internetomatic]

crazy how gun oil has become a huge industry. modern gun guys are sold on the idea of over-oiling with specialized borderline magic oil.

[@Peter-od7op]

Great vdo

[@stog9821]

Is a silicone cloth significantly inferior to a bit of mineral oil on a flannel cloth?

[@googleuser3760]

Excellent video. 👍👍

[@mokgable]

I bought my first savage hunting rifle with the tan plastic stock. I don't have to worry about oil effecting the plastic stock right? Will the plastic stock wear out before I would even have to consider that?

[@GunBlue490]

Check with the manufacturer. Plain mineral oil generally will not harm plastics, but it could discolor it over time. Just the same, only wipe the metal.

[@leetaylor6000]

Sir, what are your thoughts on silcone versus mineral oil on the metal parts or does it really matter particularly with parkarized parts like old military guns?

[@roguefive512]

How long does it take for boiled linseed oil take to dry? I just applied some onto my stock but it seems to take forever.

[@donaldjones6506]

I have a new m1a tanker. Looks dry and dull. Should I leave it alone and original. Or, can I apply mineral oil with a flannel cloth, or linseed oil sparingly with my hand. Which is better....what would you do?...Don,thanks

[@mnrodriguez]

Excellent video!

[@timnelson75]

What about inside the gun barrel? Use only solvents to only clean, and apply no oil?

[@GunBlue490]

Yes, all metal surfaces. Just pass an oiled cotton patch through after cleaning. Use a large patch in the chamber, lightly oiled.

[@charlesmudd9834]

★ Great Video ❕️

[@BigT27295]

Great information.

[@robertosanmiguel1289]

wow! wealth of knowledge!

[@cavemaninasuit]

Hello Mr Gunblue, i have a question about this subject. I have a Russian 1951 tula sks that the action moves forward and backwards in the stock maybe an 1/8 or 1/4 of an inch, i believe this is due to the interior of the stock, being unfinished, has lost some moisture and shrunk, and the recoil lug is no longer contacting the part of the wood stock that is supposed to keep it in place. What would you do about this, should i apply boiled linseed oil heavily to try to moisturize the wood and cause it to swell or would you do something else? I am worried that if i swell the wood it may crack possibly and i want to keep the beautiful stock intact without any permanent modification that would deviate from the original factory setup. What would be your advice? Thank you for your knowledge you share in your videos!

[@mikek8089]

I like to call distress marks "character marks".

[@johnb6084]

Reminds me of bowling balls soaking up oil from lanes.

[@GunBlue490]

They do?

[@johnb6084]

@@GunBlue490 It does sound strange but yes.

[@brianprobert3090]

It's not been an easy journey getting away from the way I was taught to maintain guns to what you teach in your videos but I'm almost there. Question about a couple of .22's I inherited recently (one is an old clickety clack that I want to get ready for use). Both appear to be over oiled and I'm guessing have a heavy coat of raw linseed on the stocks. They feel tacky and have a lot of dust and dirt sticking to the stock. I'd like to clean the old oil off and replace with boiled linseed but not sure of the best way to do this. I saw one video that said to use Krud Cutter on the stock but I'm leery to proceed without asking.

[@GunBlue490]

Start with the least aggressive product, and go stronger as required. I'd try mineral spirits first, then if that doesn't work, turpentine. As a last resort, soak the wood in a covered aluminum pan with acetone, but do it outdoors, as the fumes are quite flammable. Keep in mind that acetone will remove all previous finishes. If the wood is oil soaked, carefully and alternately hold it near a heat lamp, allowing the wood grain pores to open. Be very careful not to ignite or burn the wood! It may require several days to exude all oil. When it's completely clean and dry, you can treat the wood with whatever finish is desired. Boiled linseed oil may be applied and rubbed in. Absorption is hastened if you gently warm the wood and oil, but only to the temperature that you can comfortably handle.

[@brianprobert3090]

@@GunBlue490 Thank you. That sounds like a better approach than a household cleaner

[@woodrowcall3269]

A friend of mine loads up his guns with motor oil then puts them in plastic bags. I told he was crazy, some of the guns he hasn’t touched in a couple of years.

[@GunBlue490]

I'm sure he's happiest that way, until a dealer gives him the dread news some day.

[@beniciomoldenado2315]

Thank you sir for another excellent and educational video. I have been watching you for some time and have learned a great deal. Recent health issues have made it so I am not shooting anymore. At this point, I have sold many of the guns I had collected. There are a few left I may keep because I like them so much. My remaining firearms will be in my safe, leaving me with 2 questions. My safe will have desiccant to absorb moisture. I learned from this video that they may need occasional wiping with mineral oil unless they are varnished or finished with polyurethane. I hope this is accurate. My other concern is the bore. I want to be sure there is no rust forming. Do you recommend oiling the bore, or is there something else I should do? Thanks again.

[@GunBlue490]

Gun stocks require no extraordinary care, and no treatment. Any metal parts including the bore should receive a light application of plain mineral oil applied with an oil treated soft cotton flannel cloth.

[@75brittle]

​@@GunBlue4900:05

[@Mr.Pink1996]

I don't feel bad about never oiling my gun now

[@luebkeb]

What about the internal barrel surfaces?

[@GunBlue490]

Treat the bore as you do all other parts, by passing a lightly oiled, not saturated, patch through to provide corrosion protection.

[@henryrodgers1752]

Through the years, I've acquired a few handguns and rifles that had been lubricated with WD40 😡😡! A beautiful 3½" model 27 S&W..the cylinder wouldn't turn! A pre-was Walther PPK in .32ACP..the slide was "frozen"🤬! A model 71 Winchester whose lever was "stuck"! The WD40 had turned to lacquer. Their owners told me the guns were "broken and useless"... I kept my mouth shut and bought them at a bargain. An easy fix!

[@GunBlue490]

I've repaired a few guns brought to me in such condition. One was a beautiful pre-war Model 94 that operated like it had bubble gum in it. That's because, despite the misleading labeling and common usage, WD40 is NOT a mechanical lubricant, but more of a highly volatile solvent that mostly evaporates, leaving behind a petroleum base of unspecified type that builds up with continued use, not unlike rancid vegetable oil. On white metal, it will eventually appear as a sticky, yellow varnish. It should never be used as a lubricant, and has no place for firearms or fishing gear whatsoever.

[@henryrodgers1752]

@@GunBlue490 They sure have sold a lot off that stuff on that false advertizing!

[@howardvanfleet8634]

Thank-you some mush for this great video. I have a Winchester model 55, I'm sure my Grandfather took it off a prisoner when he was a guard and assistant warden at the old Utah Sugarhouse Prison back in the 30,s 40's and 50's. The serial number had been filed off and the rifle stock and metal is in pretty bad shape. The blueing is all but gone, the stock has very little protection and is scratched and banged up pretty bad. I love this gun, I shot my fist deer with this gun when I was 16, i'm 64 now. My dad gave me the rifle when he was getting on in years, he's 92 now. It has so much sentimental value. So that said, what should I do to care for it? I don't know if I should use linseed oil or some kind of Wax on the stock. What do you suggest? Thanks again, Howard

[@GunBlue490]

The first thing you must be aware of is that the possession of a firearm with an obliterated serial number is a federal offense, and the possession of evidence or prisoner property is a theft of a firearm. You should contact an attorney who has expertise in this area for advice.

[@scotts.6307]

Hello, what do you recommend to those that say AR-15s should be run "wet"?

[@GunBlue490]

That's entirely bogus and very dangerous nonsense that seems to have sprung up in recent years. Imagine, if you can, how many billions of rounds have been fired in military training and combat with no more than a couple of drops of oil on the bolt. In fact, I purposely ran one of our departmental M-16 A-1 vintage rifles with 20" barrel completely and utterly dry, with ten consecutive 20 round magazines on full auto until the handguard was so hot that I had to put leather gloves on to complete the test. The rifle never once stopped, and gave no indication that it was slowing down. The AR-15 has no magical protection from damage caused by bolt thrust, and it certainly has no special lubrication requirements. It was selected and approved after grueling tests conducted by the military in the early 1960s that subjected it to endurance tests far more extreme than I conducted. The AR-15 is a fabulously simple and durable engineering design that will continue to operate reliably and virtually forever, if provided with the modest lubrication that I described in my AR-15 cleaning video. Those who slosh oil in an AR-15 are very naive, and are following advice from fools who apparently never read from a Colt AR-15 owner's manual. They were making these guns decades before anyone else, and they know precisely what is required, which I detail in that video, which I encourage you to watch.

[@scotts.6307]

@@GunBlue490 Thank you, Sir! I have been a subscriber for a while and sincerely appreciate your help and impressed that you responded. Will pass it on!

[@jcg5571]

Johnson’s Baby Oil = mineral oil

[@GunBlue490]

Yup, with perfume.

[@bonjovi2757]

This seems like sound advice. 1 question though, what does one do when a shooter fires more than 20 rounds in a session? I fire up to 1000 rounds in a range session in my AR15 during a range session. How would I care for my rifle during the range session without disassembling my rifle? Thank you for you advice.

[@OldManYelllsAtCloud]

Anyone know if Liquid Paraffin B.P is the same thing as mineral oil USP as I can't find it in Australia.

[@GunBlue490]

Yes, it's the same oil. Clear, and the same viscosity as olive oil.

[@OldManYelllsAtCloud]

@@GunBlue490 Thank you

[@harperhellems3648]

Your input and knowledge is greatly appreciated. The rifles you show to demonstrate proper oiling are beautiful. Thank you!

[@wallyrossow3141]

I’m a Luthier and work on guitars but wood is wood. I found the best thing to use as a sanding block is an artist eraser. They’re white rubber, 2”x 1”x3/4”. No hard pointy corners and they work better than any sanding block I’ve used over the last 35 years of building and repairs stringed instruments.

[@JacobBerry-lo3bm]

That sounds like a good tip! Thanks

[@DFox-ud3gx]

I cut up flip flops for sanding blocks they sometimes work

[@Dan-uk2nk]

Wrap the sandpaper around foam pipe insulation.

[@jhebert4055]

Good common sense advice. I have rifles and pistols I purchased new going back 45 years. Without exception, they all still look new. All I have ever done to protect them is precisely what you have demonstrated here. The only difference being I used Rem Oil until 1995 when I switched exclusively to pure mineral oil.

[@Gary99.]

Can you explain your maintenance routine for me, I own a m1 so should I even apply grease to it ?

[@patriciafrazier8739]

Husband works at a local gun store. He’s not a smith by a long shot. He tells folks all the time that owners do way more damage by “cleaning” their guns than will ever be done by shooting them. Especially the barrel crowns. Wipe off your gun metal with a silicon cloth to remove oils placed from your hands before storage is a good practice. Fingerprints cause rust in highly humid environments . We enjoy learning from you. Great job on the videos!

[@zayacz123]

It’s so much easier to clean guns that aren’t oil soaked. Thank you for discussing this topic again. I’ve been using your advice on cleaning for a few years now.

[@badbargainbryce222]

Really made me reconsider how I was taught to clean guns, I'd always been told to use a healthy amount of oil on a cotton ball or swab and go all around the bolt and moving sections. If this advice has any weight (and in my opinion it certainly seems so) than I've been seriously mislead on how to care for my old rifles. I hope the damage hasn't been too serious, I'll definitely be trying to re-educate myself and find more info along these lines on how to take better care in the future.

[@joecascio2073]

Me too!!! Holy crap, I’ve oiled the heck out of all my guns

[@Brett235]

I wish I had known this 30 years ago. I have been over oiling my firearms for years because that's how I was taught. "Keep it oiled up" they would say.

[@GunBlue490]

In the Army, our guns were white glove inspected and we knew it was forbidden for the lieutenant's glove to get oily. We were to wipe all parts with oil and wipe them dry to the touch.

[@cenccenc946]

throughout your video, I kept thinking of my father's story from WWII. They packed the guns in truck bearing grease. He got assigned to unpack them when they arrived in the Philippines. He said they spent days cutting the grease with gasoline. I don't think the Marines were too concerned about long-term collectible status of their guns at the time. 😂

[@Fun4me75]

I did the same thing.🤦🏽‍♀️🤷🏼‍♀️

[@dcar335i]

Good practical advise. Over oiling or oiling in places it should not be is bad. Light oiling on metal parts where there is friction with a good oil and a needle applicant in minor amounts is necessary. I appreciate your videos very much!

[@williamvigil2951]

These kinds of videos and the overviews of different cartridges are my favorite. Thank you for the knowledge sir

[@eb1684]

That was better than excellent! Invaluable info (ie mineral oil).

[@paulsimmons5726]

Another great video, filled with good common sense tips! Thanks for posting! PS - Missed seeing Bennie!

[@bobbyboothe8964]

Great information. Thanks again. GOD Bless You Sir.

[@deniscleaver7544]

You couldn't be more right about oil usage on firearms. I see so many fine firearms that have been bathed in oil over the years by their owners with so much destructive results especially on the wooden parts. I have refrained from any oil-on-wood applications for years. Instead, I use wax sparingly on wood. Renaissance, a micro-crystalline wax polish, made in England for their museum quality preservation methods, is extremely high quality and worth every bit of the cost. As far as the steel, blued areas, the wax afore mentioned works great. Longterm storage may require a light coat of RIG grease, but the waxing of these parts is usually enough to protect the firearm for years.

[@efreutel]

A definite ditto on the micro-crystalline Renaissance Wax! 👍👍👍

[@garymicka9523]

I have an Inland M1 Carbine marker 2-43. I have longed to understand the care of this 79 y/o stock. Thank-you.

[@LAT-qk3vj]

You have one of the best gun channels on KZbin. Thank you!

[@GunBlue490]

Thank you and God bless.