HALO Just Changed the Recess Lighting Game with THIS!

[@StudPack]

Save 20% on your system and your first month is free when you sign up for interactive monitoring. Visit SimpliSafe.com/StudPack to learn more!

[@jeromegarcia5396]

I don't do attics anymore because I'm past 35 years old... period... nope to insulation and nope to hot, fiberglass in the skin at night... nope .. in my 20s I insulated professionally, one of my hoodies my ex washed with her panties... 🤣🤣🤣 I'm at work getting cussed because someone gots itchy and scratchy going on in their pants... yeah... no Attics anymore, I paid my dues 🤣🤣🤣

[@n0nyabznss]

Nice that you decided to delete my comment. Do a video where you're replacing an EXISTING old can recessed light with a flush mount LED light (and I'm not talking about retrofitting an LED light bulb).

[@a94cobra]

I thought wrapping with black tape was against code.

[@edwardsawyer7403]

Y’all need to add videos to Rumble

[@mikequartucci9700]

Hey Paul, just for your future jobs, whenever I rough in wiring for any switch box, 1,2,3,4,5 gang or more, I always bring the feed wires (hot) in the bottom of the box, and if there is going to be a tap out of that box to feed another switch box or receptacle downstream , I will also bring that outgoing hot in the bottom of the box. That way I always know the cables coming into the box on the bottom are both "hots", and they always get connected together. It makes wiring multiple devices a little simpler.

[@dms031000]

I've always heard that if you're using a non-contact voltage tester, you should make sure and touch it to something that you know is hot (like an outlet in another room that is on) to make sure that the tester is working properly before you trust it to tell you if the wires you're going to touch are actually turned off. Always good to be doubly-safe when working with potentially live wiring.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

In the industry we call that a Live-Dead-Live test and its an excellent idea to make sure your tester is working properly

[@MrMockingbird1313]

Normally, throughout the day pros will test their tester several times.

[@krsl5837]

i worked with a old electrician that would touch the wire to find out if it was hot 🔥 or ground out the power wire to find the circuit breaker it was on 😂

[@DavidSanty]

Non-contact testers are also known as "death sticks" because they're notoriously unreliable. Any time you have to touch wire with your fingers, the circuit should be tested metal on metal first. Most DIYers aren't investing in $$$$ professional testers and shouldn't be led to believe that the $10 sticks they buy at the hardware store are going to tell them for certain when a circuit isn't energized.

[@y00h0011]

Yep! Always test your tester... whether contact or non-contact on a known live circuit.

[@donaldsmith5972]

I’ve been an electrician since 1966 and I’m still amazed at all the technology we have today. So many jobs are so much simpler than when I was an apprentice.

[@brianboyd2957]

Note: Always re-check with tester AFTER turning off breaker. For one, the breaker at times fails to open when you turn it off. I have always trained apprentices to re-check the box just in case there is a second circuit present in the same box. Simply move the tester around at the rear of the box.. not just what is easy to touch. A second circuit is more common than you realize.

[@CitEnthusiast]

Or you might be working on outlets that your electronics trained father has previously re-wired and crossed two circuits! DAMHIK! LOL I always check now.

[@lacuzon39000]

Especially if you got stablock / federal pacific breakers

[@jmpattillo]

Yep. Always recheck. Also I was taught to touch the hots first with the back of your hand after you were absolutely sure they were off. If you somehow made a mistake, your reflexes will cause you to pull away from the live wires.

[@lacuzon39000]

@@jmpattillo I touch or grab the " hot " wire with the power ON with my bare hand plenty of times in my electrician career without getting shock .

[@jmpattillo]

​@@lacuzon39000 I guess if you are well insulated from a ground path then you can get away with it. I'm just glad I've never gotten anything across my heart.

[@FadedHero636]

You should try the Wago 221 connectors, they make everything clean and neat. I always wrap the screws so I can't touch the screws if pulling the switch out.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

Even though you are using a plastic box, its a good idea to tape the hot terminals on the switch because the ground wires are long and exposed. When you fold them into the box and then "shove" the devices in, its hard to know if the ground wires get moved around. I have been using the Halo recessed lighting for a while now, but never saw that kit before. LOVE IT! Thanks for showing it off Another great video StudPack!

[@thewonderfulwonder1614]

you can see the ground on the sides man don’t tape it

[@stevenbartley6088]

Just installed two, along with other lighting, in my company's office. One worked for about 10 seconds, the other not at all. Checked all connections and voltage. All ok

[@StudPack]

unscrew it justttt a bit

[@buntychea2616]

I've watched about 4 of your videos while trying to finish my basement. You are now my favorite show. You are a true teacher and explain key concepts clearly and conscisely. Keep up the good work!

[@paulstandaert5709]

These "wafer lights" have really changed the game when it comes to lighting. I mounted mine in ceiling tiles which I was able to mount within 2.5 inches below the ductwork. Otherwise, I would have literally needed to design my ductwork around where can lights would normally go. My concern is if one of these lights goes ca'put in 5 years, will I be able to find an identical replacement, or will I be replacing all of my wafer lights? I like how the old Edison base fixtures installed 75 years ago can STILL appear and function fine with a simple bulb replacement.

[@_BAD_MERC_]

The wire through the ceiling trick to locate potential obstructions is flat out genius!!

[@PongoXBongo]

I love that he emphasizes *selectable color temperature.* That's crucial when you can't just change a lightbulb to go from daylight white to warm white, or vice versa. Without that selectability, you'd have to rip out and replace _the entire fixture_ just to change the color of the light.

[@kimfroman2023]

Yes I didn't realize about the lights and my porch looks like a prison yard or airport runway.

[@ryanbelow]

I have a set of 6 led lights similar to those installed in my kitchen. When we run our dishwasher, the lights flicker with the pulses of the dishwasher motor. I also have led under cabinet lights that are perfectly fine when the dishwasher runs. Any ideas?

[@rangerrecon]

I’ve put in wafer lights in upstairs ceilings w/o attic access, but only when I didn’t need to run a new switch leg - e.g. I was connecting to and existing ceiling light/fan leg. I simply used fiberglass fishing rods that I can use to run the Romex from light to light and finally to the switch leg.

[@hwolverine1]

Something to consider, that I didn't see in the comments and they didn't mention in the video, is if you're putting recessed lighting in a lower ceiling, like a basement, you'll need to take into consideration the beam angle coming out of the lights themselves. If you have them too far apart you'll feel like you're walking in and out of light and get an awkward feeling because you'll be walking in and out of the light beam.

[@admanajw]

Would be nice to know how high the ceiling is and what the lens angle of the lights your using is.

[@KingJerbear]

Man you guys are really giving me confidence to do some work on my new home. It's funny how it seems like Jordan is the one who had the idea for this channel, but Dad is such a natural in front of the camera and a great teacher. I like how you asked him to clarify the wiring stuff, just to give folks a chance to boost their confidence even further.

[@daveallan3152]

I really enjoy your videos. Very consice and thorough with very clear explanations! Keep it up!

[@bradstoops8862]

I have LED lights just like these that were installed maybe 2 years ago. One of them has stopped working. What are your best tips for a non-electrician to diagnose the issue? Are the LED's themselves replaceable or might I need to replace the whole light assembly? Thanks for any input.

[@elisandrosanabria3848]

The whole light. This light are not reliable as the regular can lights.

[@ThisIsNotAVideo]

In the manual I read, the halo junction box with the transformer is not IC rated, which could be a problem.

[@rogermccaslin5963]

A lot of people don't realize how hot an attic can be. I'm in South Florida and I'm in attics at least 4-5 times a week. Highest I've ever measured was 137°. It was too hot to even crawl around with bare hands. Danger level heat.

[@charlesgulotta8515]

Used to do HVAC with my father in attics in Florida. We measured 145 one time. We would rotate out after 15 min to avoid heat stroke.

[@kenmore01]

I was gonna say, it was probably a lot hotter than 120!

[@kevinritchie9227]

Our company does a lot of poultry house work. We have to go in the attics of the houses quite a bit. With just the tin roof between you and the sun, it gets scorching. One time on of the guys took out a heat gun. It was 162 degrees at the access hole. The wood trusses were so hot, you couldnt touch them. Even the wire we had to pull down the ceiling got so hot by the time we got where we had to put it, you could almost not hold on to it.

[@gblim398]

Dallas here. My first summer with a remodeling crew I was the "attic rat" running wiring and ducts. I am now able to laugh at the desperation I felt at the end (and hottest part) of the day when all I needed to do was insulate that one last duct and I'd be free! And the only thing holding me up was peeling the back off the stupid foil tape with trembling fingers while trying to see what I was doing through the waterfall of sweat running across my eyes. Like I said, I am NOW able to laugh about it. I lost twenty pounds that summer.

[@skinlab4239]

wouldn't last spraying foam.

[@raycarreon1412]

From what I can remember the joist won’t interfere with the pancake LED lights… I’m assuming you’re looking out for the DIYers?

[@saigyl9149]

just installed one of these, it's fantastic how easy it makes installing a bunch of LED lights in a room, but something important i think everyone should know is to avoid the 0-10v dimmable version. you'll have to do so much extra AND run extra wires to make it dimmable

[@neilpdx78]

I’m having this problem too. how do you update to dimmable? I have a feeling I’ll need to run 0-10v lines but to what and where. Manufacturer has left us hanging.

[@bascodelagamma]

I always get excited to see a new Stud Pack video waiting for me! I appreciate you fellers so much for your in-depth explanations. Also, thank you for explaining the clamping plate on the switch. I feel that so many people don’t even realize what that plate is for. Keep up the great work!

[@milesharlan1]

Studpack Wednesday!! Simpli the best day of the week so far!! I installed a simplisafe system earlier this year for a client for the first time.. Very easy to do & following the directions was easy.. Thank you guys & Keep up the good work!

[@Pete4875]

I am hesitant about bundling excess wire in loops. Even extension cords. I think it may induce voltage or RF. Is there any validity to that theory?

[@davidcordes9283]

Master Electrician in Florida. Done tons of hi hats without getting in the attic but we are usually dealing with 1 floor structures. A fishtape and patience does the job.

[@normsgonz4782]

I love to see the three way application installed please make a video I couldn’t find one 😊

[@stevebowser7248]

Again, you are the master of the tricks, every time you use one of the little tricks, I recall how my pop would use them. Like turning the hammer sideways to get to the tight space over the staple. You guys always do fantastic work and its like 20 minutes of reminiscing for me. Anyone who wants to learn...and learn it right....this is the right channel to watch.

[@flowerstone]

I was taught to always wrap the wire nuts on any connections in a way that it holds the wire nut on and keeps it tight. Wire nuts can loosen over time and heat up. I’m an industrial electrician but it holds true in residential too.

[@marcofantone5078]

Super helpful video! Picked up the Halo low-voltage 4-pack and am just about done with the install. Only problem I've run into is with the dimmer switch. It's wired up correctly and the on/off switch will turn the lights on and off but when I use the slider to dim, nothing happens. The lights remain at full brightness. Faulty dimmer switch? It's a Leviton DSL06 that's supposed to work with LEDs, CFLs and halogens.

[@williameisenberg1999]

This is a well informed video . Thank you for showing that 90 percent of the time we have to work in a attic and it does get incredibly hot up their … I prefer 120 volt compared to low voltage ,the higher voltage last longer .

[@gordonmorrow]

Excellent presentation. I like that the photographer chimes in with his questions/observations and you then elaborate. I learned a lot. Well done.

[@ips7125]

So i got these after watching the video. Installed in the kitchen remodel. I got the same dimmer you installed here and it does not work. From what i read you meed a low volt dimmer. In the video you did not show the dimmer actually dimming. Mine works like an one/off switch but dimmer does not work. Lights flash and turn off. Am i missing something here? Or did your dimmer not work as well?

[@elisandrosanabria3848]

Because he doesn’t know. Lol

[@elisandrosanabria3848]

Don’t trust does lights. Just imagine connecting 4-6 lights in ballast. Once a ballast is bad all the lights are off. Not good at all.

[@kevinvitale8980]

I installed these recents in my man cave and could not be happier. Tied them to the existing box unused in the center. Thanks for first making me aware of such product… also thanks so much for your videos… really enjoy your stuff.

[@videolabguy]

A father. A son. Electrical circuits. Well, my day is complete. Thanks, boys. You two ROCK!

[@darrylqmiller]

FYI- I just bought a similar saw from the orange store made by Klein. Worked pretty well and was around $30. Good enough for the 4 holes I had to do for my lights. Wish I had watched this video first, I made all of the right marks where the joists were but there were so many and I was in such a rush that, you guessed it, I drilled one hole right where my joist was. Made a big X with a circle on all the other holes after that. Went from a simple job to extra work patching drywall in just a few seconds. Some times I amaze myself with how smart and I am and other times I amaze myself with my stupidity.

[@donho3617]

I am not an electrician by trade, but my uncle was and would take me on the job with him when we visited him for the summer in Michigan. He taught me that all power cables come into the box on the upper left and wires going to your device goes out the upper right. I do not know if that is a standard, but all the homes that I have owned have been like that and when I rewired the garage that is how I did it. If it is a box I am not sure of, I always test the circuit and mark it for me later or the next guy that has to go into the box.

[@ralphviz8336]

I did it! All thanks to this video. Just installed in my bedroom and it came out great. I’m in Miami and I waited until this cold snap to go into my attic. Any other day I’d melt in there.

[@Paula-vr5rm]

we put 6 pendant lights in our kitchen and it they don’t look right, now we had to go in through the attic , now they have these round blue boxes they are connected to could we use this kind of lighting in the place of those and connect without going through the attic

[@georgekabacinski]

After having retired a full master bathroom remodel I have found the Wago connectors to be SO much better than wire nuts. Working with the past twisted wires in a remodel is a serious pain. Wago connectors are so much cleaner and really eases future changes. Nice video thanks for making them.

[@MAGAMAN]

Wire nuts have been fine for the past hundred years, so I see no reason to change to something relatively new and untested.

[@vintagejesus660]

I just looked at these tonight, pretty cool. A little more expensive at $140 for 4 pack, but you wiring is all included, and it takes alot of work out of landing multiple junction boxes for each individual light you want to install. Thanks for posting this project!

[@dan-777-abc]

Another great video. As a homeowner I’m not liking the choose of the Fan Controller sticking out like that just asking to be broken by the kids. Very helpful to know when we upgrade our Bedroom fans

[@Rogelio_Inzunza]

You’ve a new fan here! Encyclopedic level of information, yet distilled to a form that any layperson with the will to learn can tackle almost any home-related project! Appreciate the fast tempo of your speech, which combined with the depth of knowledge, makes for videos that you have to pause or rewind! Keep ‘em coming, and here’s to a million subs! 👍👍👍👍👍

[@jacobiceps9452]

Really love that you explain everything more than once. I’m an amateur electrician and I didn’t quite understand how you wired up the 2 gang box in the beginning, but when you explained it at the end, I understood. Still don’t understand the purpose of a switch leg. Also, I didn’t know you were from Louisiana. That’s awesome. As a fellow Louisianaian, I love watching your channel.

[@jakesully5402]

In a nut shell, the term “switch leg” is a commonly accepted nickname for the wire that runs from the control device (ie the switch, dimmer, timer, motion sensor, photocell, etc) up to the light fixture. A switch leg is always controlled by a device, and never has constant power. Hope that helps clarify !! Cheers.

[@johnsrabe]

7:00 Dust Bowl. When we had a whole-house HVAC installed in our house, the company brought along a little old man who was somebody’s grandpa. His entire job was to hold a box up to the ceiling where they were cutting the holes for the vents. We didn’t have any dust in the house because grandpa did his job.

[@clintmurdock119]

also keep the drill above your head so if the hole saw bit grabs, you dont get knocked off your ladder when the battery pack slams your face

[@tank75nc]

I love devices that have the clamping plates. I hate doing loops around screws. Love the content!!

[@russellsickler5961]

Have y'all ever tried Wago lever nuts vs the wire nuts? I watch 80% or so of the uploads (I miss them sometimes) and hadn't seen those yet. They work great, and I'd even be tempted to send you some. For DIYers, it makes wiring so much faster than wire nuts, and doesn't damage the wire.

[@0Fidel0]

I was just about to ask Studpack about using Wagos. I'm from Germany so I don't know about American Building Code, but Wagos made a huge difference to me in electrical installation. Though I don't use the lever ones but the slim ones where you just stick your wire in. I know it makes hardly any difference regarding conductivity yet wire nuts have a sliiiight advantage over Wagos, but it's never a fire hazard or anything like that. I love that with Wagos you can easily remove single wires without dismanteling the whole setup.

[@thezfunk]

@@0Fidel0 I use both of the Wago types and they work fantastic. I will never go back to wire nuts. The extra cost is worth it.

[@LaneBeScrolling]

They’ve mentioned them before, and basically said “use what you like,” I believe.

[@840diego5]

Hey guys i had a quick question. Could you have just joined all of the hots including the pig tails to the fan and light together into one wire nut or was there a reason you guys did it the way you did ?

[@VampireOnline]

How far away should the can lights be from the fan blades so you don’t get a shadow?

[@rizzo3689]

I'm in the middle of a bathroom remodel and we wanted to do recessed lights. I did them in our kitchen and was not looking forward to mounting four in the bathroom and being up in the attic dripping with sweat. I'm planning on using one romex line for all four lights so it was going to be a junction box party up there. Oh man am I glad I came across your video. These are a game changer!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to help us all out. Liked and subbed!!

[@lacuzon39000]

Nowadays I like to use 4 inch new construction or remolding can for incandescent where it is available because they got the extra safety heat switch built in , just in case something goes wrong with the led light , there is plenty of led recessed modules that will fit in the 4 inch can with the socket plug in for 120 V then you won’t have to depend on finding the proper replacement in a few years when Halo discontinued this model , plus every brand with this type of light on separate driver or driver built in the can have their own secondary DC voltage set up and you can only use the proper oem replacement part .

[@rontiemens2553]

Fantastic presentation. As always! Would also love a video on how you drew up that house circuit diagram for the inspector.

[@StudPack]

We did a video on it right here Ron👊 kzbin.info/www/bejne/goWvdZuahdagmaM

[@mrcryptozoic817]

@@StudPack Thanks for the x-ref!

[@tumuskurns]

Stoked to see yall getting some sponsorships! So epic. Congrats fellas, you earned it

[@TheIperez18]

I'm usually into car videos. But I enjoy how you walk us through each step

[@1202jazzman]

I was taught to always place the hot leg on the bottom screw of the switch, and the load leg going to the device on top. It makes sense to visualize power comes into the switch, passes through the switch and flows to the device. I know it doesn't matter, but it just makes sense to me to do it that way. Thoughts?

[@Ryan-dj5ku]

It doesn't matter and the next guy has no idea that you did it. If you are worried, label it.

[@MAGAMAN]

Most switches are labeled for hot and neutral.

[@MarioIArguello]

Nice video, working with sweaty hands in an attic that has fiberglass blow insulation is not fun. I have done similar work, in my days and from time to time, and here in AZ you can imagine the heat in attics or crawl spaces, even in the spring and fall. From a quick installation, the low voltage lights you are using are great, but I prefer hard wire direct to each light with Romex, for a more service free and solid installation and this is a lot easier than working with BMX or metal pipe as per code in some east coast states. My experience with low voltage lighting, as with landscaping lights have not been favorable, at some point there is chance for loss of continuity due to press fit contact loosening over time, but this also is a matter of how well the press fit connector was designed and installed.

[@somenecool]

So did we just cap off the neutrals? Like they’re not being used? And why is that?

[@PKChangeForAfrica]

Where's your dust bowl from? Looks nice compared to the klein or rackatiers

[@jeffswaney5296]

I installed these low voltage lights in my living room per the instructional video. HOWEVER, if you want them to dim, in addition to the 120 volt wiring you need to run low voltage wiring to the transformer AND to a dimmer switch that is compatible.

[@stevefrend2810]

Where did you find this information? I’ve been trying to get mine to dim but not understanding how to fix it properly

[@jaminmancom]

I like to make a tag out of the romex sleeve and use a sharpie to write power. I then slip it over the hot wire coming into the box. In the future if I need to get into the box I know which one has the source power. I use the romex strippers (Klein K1412) to cut off the romex sleeve rather than using a knife to open it. It saves me from cutting into the wire accidentally. I also get a clean cut and a sleeve to use as a tag.

[@MrNathaneasterling]

Awesome video, I have a question; I have most of the lights in my house on Google Home, is there a way to link/control the HALO lights to a "smart home" system?

[@juliemandell]

using a smart switch to control them?

[@19summers81]

Is this easier if i already have fixtures that I'm just replacing with these? If I do the work myself will I still need a permit?

[@jorgenorman8715]

There are ins and outs in the junction box is that to add more box’s or 3 way switch?

[@illestofdemall13]

Why don't you do the wiring down on the floor then stick it into the attic through one of the recessed light holes? Then just go up there to mount the box. That's what I do most of the time. I also manage to fish the wire from below most of the time with fiberglass rods.

[@jasonedits459]

Great vid. I was wondering if I can add 15 feet extra on the cable. 35 feet is little short for my project

[@lacuzon39000]

Check live and neutral also not just live and ground , there are many houses out there wired with “ romex “ connected to old wiring without actual ground .

[@Quagmire88]

My house has electric in-ceiling heat. Can I still use these lights? I know that they will fit but will this violate the NEC? Will heat buildup be an issue?

[@romchik07]

Can you leave the power supply box laying on top of the insulation or does it have to be attached to a joist to be safe?

[@RyanAlcantara]

This was the video I was hoping you would make. I've been looking to install wafer lights in my bedroom to replace the center ceiling fan light and while there are many DIY vids on this subject I wanted to see how the Stud Pack crew tackled the install. Great job!

[@PongoXBongo]

Always awesome to see fans wired separately from fan lights. Nice to be able to have the fan running during the day without the lights on, or at night without the lights on, all without having to mess with pull chains.

[@TENTHIRTYONE]

Yeah, except when the fan comes with a remote that could control the light (& now can’t). Or even worse, when you want to use the Bond Bridge to control the fan and light using Alexa/Google

[@PongoXBongo]

@@TENTHIRTYONE Is the "Bond Bridge" a manufacturer specific accessory? You could alternatively replace both fan and light wall switches with smart switches to control them individually (on/off/dim).

[@PongoXBongo]

@Slim_Savage Pretty sure it was originally wired for just a ceiling light and someone (before me) swapped it for a fan-light without changing the wiring or switch.

[@mikeclarke3005]

I am still putting in standard fixtures, using LED bulbs or adapters, have still yet to see the reliability from LED claims, have several go out and if dedicated fixtures more a pain one to replace second maybe not find that design again and not match the other same fixtures installed etc. So I am still installing regular IC rated cans, that way have a choice and if use LED spots and dimmer so be it.

[@leematthews2243]

Installed this same exact Halo quick link. Removed existing fixture replaced with 6 recessed lights. The j-box gets really hot. Is there something wrong with my wiring. I only had black and white wire.

[@eagleeye5890]

You and your son do an excellent job with your video's / sounds like you raised him right / have a excellent father son relationship...enjoy watching your video's keep up the excellent work and take care...

[@unreal2005]

I installed some led recessed lights from home depot, it didnt have a power supply box or anything, i just connected the romex and daisy chained them all together. Is a low voltage power supply box needed?

[@jackieofalltrades5328]

What if you are replacing existing lights with these lights, how would that work?

[@henrymartinez32]

Do they make that type of lighting for 1” think stucco ceiling besides of the 1/2 drywall

[@bsh21wash1]

Do you have to have a dimmer switch when installing these? I have several 3 way switches on some old style can lights and want to upgrade to these. I just replaced all my switches and would prefer not having to buy different ones if I don't have to.

[@KhaNguyen-bt1zu]

If i wanna run more lights, can i just extend it from the end of the self seal cable?

[@johnknightiii1351]

I have some recessed lights attached to 4 switches in my new house. If I wanted to add a dimmer do I need more then one?

[@MrDjfrankwild]

I did all the recess lighting in all my downstairs rooms without attic access. You just need to get 3/4 ,54inch flex bit. I can't belive he said he cut someone's floor open to do it. They literally sell these bits at all the major hardware stores just for this reason. They even have a hole on the shaft to pull the wire through.

[@doc145]

Maybe he was joking. Has to be. No electrician in their right mind would do what he said. Use the flex bit or just cut holes in the wall board and patch afterwards.

[@robertnewton5937]

I installed the 6” version of these lights in my kitchen and set them on the 5000k setting. However, when i put the dimmer switch on it would not dim and would flicker even after using the adjustment lever. Do the lights need to be at the lower 3000 or 3500k level in order to properly dim?

[@alabama89ful]

It looked like you were using a Philips head to tighten up the receptacle wire screws. Do you ever user a Robertson bit or the Milwaukee ECX? I’m a DIY non professional. I don’t trust my Philip head torque with the wiring bolts. 😂

[@Xettabytes]

Hi, your videos are great! I can tell you are an honest contractor. Wish you were in Michigan! Anyhow, please use dimmer in a 3-way. I have a project in the basement where we are finishing it, and I am doing two rooms with recessed lighting with 3way dimmers. I don't think I will be using the recessed lighting in this video as I don't have drywall up yet but plan to use Halo because of your videos! Also, how did you make the electric box map? I would like to map my house out. Thanks again!

[@richardscarlett7942]

so, where are the colors? all I have seen you show is variable brightness in whits light? just curious what you mean

[@treblaonai]

So these lights can be in contact directly with the insulation?

[@cottagekeeper]

What happens if one of the led light fixture fails? Do you have to replace all four?

[@PANOPTIC-VIDS]

Thanks for the full explanation of how to install the wafer lighting You make the best DIY videos.

[@chrisjames7489]

Ok, now where do you find these kits? Local Home Centers don't have them, Cooperlighting say that Gexpro a distributor, and they don't even have them listed. The 6in can part numbers is LTQL6069S1EDM-4PK for the 4 pack.

[@scarce911]

All my current can lights are 8" ..there ARE some available..but it's slim pickin. I would like to upgrade and not have to do 20 patches .

[@GoBayside]

Low voltage is great, hopefully new homes will have it pre-wired. Is the transformer rated for insulation contact?

[@karenedwards3721]

Are they fully dimmible and what dimmers do you use

[@mattwilliamson1714]

Nice job as always. Used that same hole saw a few weeks ago while upgrading a church auditorium (from the 70's hanging globes to the 5/8" wafer LEDs). Was so nice not to have to clean up all the flying dust because of the hole saw cover... and the new 5/8" lights fit underneath all the joists. LEDs were a cleaner look, much brighter output, a lot less heat, and use much less power. Had a few places we needed to widen existing holes... problem was there was no place for the center bit to index. So... I got a light fixture mounting bracket, drilled out the center hole to fit my hole saw pilot bit, and then put drywall screws thru it up into the ceiling drywall (inside the diameter of my cutting legs). Allowed me to index the pilot bit anywhere and widen existing (4") holes to larger (6") holes. (Have also used a piece of 1"x4" cut into a 4" circle, but that was a bit more work and this way I was able to go exactly where I wanted.)

[@johnmayer4747]

Ssssoooo, before Katrina, we had an attic crawlspace in a hip roof style home like you were in. We installed an oven temperature gauge to see how hot it was during the summer. It would start when opening the hatch it would be 125 degrees and then zoom to 150 degrees after turning on the florescence light. Now, after Katrina, we went to a gable roof with a standing space to house the water heater and HVAC unit. WE have a house length vent on both sides of the house with a roof ridge vent to escape as much air as it could. The hottest it gets now is about 5 to 7 degrees hotter than the outside. Best thing we could have ever done!!! Great video as I am going to try to get similar lights for out bathroom. Great video!!! BTW, we are located on Mississippi Gulf Coast about 1/2 mile from the beach.

[@BradThePitts]

To have enough lights to see to do homework or prepare food, how do I know how many lights to install and at what spacing?

[@terryjanssen316]

They make long feeler bits you can drill through joists in vaulted and 2 story homes. It has a hole in end of the bit to pull the wire back.

[@bnasty267]

Just make sure you think long and hard about what might be on the other side of that joist. You don't want to hit Romex stapled to the side of the joist, or worse, a water pipe.

[@tymangum8602]

Were you running those lights to a 15 or 20 amp breaker?

[@flowerstone]

Is it possible to use Simply Safe without the monitoring? We live so far out of town and on a mountain that if our house was on fire it would be burned to the ground before the fire department could get here. I don’t want to pay for monitoring and if I can access it with my phone that would be fine.

[@camden-mg3wz]

Hey stud pack why do y’all not use automatic wire strippers to make it a lot faster and to get out of the attic sooner

[@opinionatedman]

Good job on the video. I personally am not a fan of those lights. Companies occasionally produce these "innovative" products that are a bit outside the norm, then years from now when components fail or break you can't find replacement parts. In this case one specific driver controls all 4 lights, up to 8. Driver fails there are no lights. You also have those plastic clips that attach to the LV wire, it reminds me of the round discs used for LV wire on landscape lighting, and those discs are usually the first thing to fail. Granted they are exposed to different elements and circumstances than they would be in an attic. It is a DIY friendly solution, but it has the same drawbacks as traditional can lights-you have to work around any obstruction-joists, ductwork, blocking, bridging, plumbing, etc. That makes it defeat the purpose of being DIY friendly. At the end of the day flat wafers that sit below the joist are going to thrive compared to this product. You can fish either wire from hole to hole and avoid attic work all together, especially when the return is already up in the ceiling-just get it close to the first light location and use poles or tape to hop between them all. Just a sparky's 2 cents. I wouldn't install this product in my home nor would I recommend them to a customer. Halo is a good brand but this seems short term and gimmicky and likely to be phased out. All the downsides of can light install and one link makes or breaks all the lights. Imagine if an office room had all their 4 foot T8 fluorescent lights controlled by 1 ballast.

[@uncleronny6748]

I was thinking the same thing...outdoor light connection failures...oh boy. I finally found the solution...those 3M grease filled connector chingaderas and never looked back. I wonder how long those connection points are gonna last in the heat of that attic let alone the heat of my attic in Phoenix?

[@luifranco1457]

I bought the 8-light bundle for our kitchen renno and will be returning these because the lights are failing to pair on the app. Lights are on, they’re getting power from the supply and the only online troubleshooting doc Halo has on them only tell you to make sure power is on and that you’re within range of Bluetooth (yes to both). Anyway, just wanted to point out that the power supply isn’t a “hub” for this system, it is basically just a transformer to feed 10v downstream to the lights you place on the wire. Each light has its own Bluetooth transmitter that needs to pair to the app. I was able to get the Halo dimmers recognized, but none of the lights in the kit worked. Experience tells me this isn’t a solid product 👎🏻

[@DiyintheGhetto]

My questions would bw and I didn't remember if you said that. Is how far from the wall do you make it for the light and what again was the spacing between the lights itself?