2 for 1! Wildcat Dual Build! Airfix F4f and Arma Hobby FM-2 1:72 full build

[@thanatosstorm]

There's a problem here. I can't like this 1,000 times. I became a tanker back in 2003 and I'm now working on my own build, a Tamiya 1/35 M1A2 that I'm retrograding to an M1A1 AIMS (my own), but I'm seriously drooling to try a Wildcat (or three), and while these builds in 1/72 are far smaller, you make them look so damn lovely that I'm weeping. Seriously, thank you so much for sharing with us your work and your opinions. I'll definitely have to see about getting both, eventually. Because really, why not? Godspeed, sir!

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

I wish you could like it 1000 times, that would really help the algorithm! 😂 But thank you for the complements! That's really cool about your M1A2, I build an academy M1 many years ago, I really need to get back into modern armor. I would highly recommend either Wildcat kit, but I would lean more towards the Airfix kit. Good luck with your builds!

[@thanatosstorm]

@@HammerheadModelMaking If you do, I can't recommend the Tamiya 1:35 scale highly enough. With a minor addendum, of course. The new VOIIO M1A2 appears to have a jump on the main gun barrel being a three-piece set that doesn't involve splitting the barrel in half, as is the usual. Makes them really good standouts in my humble amateur opinion. However, I just realized as I finalized my own work that the M1A2 Tamiya sells omits one specific thing... the bustle rack extension which is now standard on almost every M1A1/A2 AIMS/SEPS post-2000. I'll need to see about aftermarket pieces from Eduard or someone else to make it proper. Otherwise, it's a dead ringer. I ended up going out and seeing about a Hobby Lobby that just re-opened, and lo and behold, they have the 1/72 scale Airfix Curtiss P40B Warhawk just sitting there for $9.99 plus tax. I couldn't stop myself. So now I'll be checking out your works even more closely! I'll also see about sharing your work on Twitter and TikTok under my name, you're worthy of recognition for all of this.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

@@thanatosstorm thanks for the additional onfo about the M1, and good luck with your p40, it’s a good little kit and I’ve got a few in my stash!

[@TXGRunner]

At least in the early war, aircraft were lucky to last 100 hours. Wildcats unfortunate enough to land on Guadalcanal would be quickly beaten up, then used for parts salvage. Shipboard Wildcats were repainted in December 1941, then a partial repaint in March/April when insignia was changed, then were replaced after Coral Sea and before Midway by F4F-4s. Later in the war they might have swapped engines at 100 hours, but total replacement was common in early war. Older aircraft were returned to US for training. I think you did an amazing job on models and I subscribed. These are so much more detailed than the 1/48 scale Monogram F4Fs I did in the 1970s.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thanks for the sub and the additional information about the wildcats, I'm always happy to learn new stuff! Cheers!

[@kevinhedrich6026]

By far the best comparison between these manufacturers I've seen. Watched twice, absolutely love this video!

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

I appreciate the repeat viewing, glad you enjoyed it!

[@manostroulinos1726]

Great video, and great comparisons, thanks very much. I am really amazed by the quality of some of the recent 1/72 models, unimaginable a few decades ago. Very encouraging indeed, also the fact that you get great quality even with "normally priced" models, not just with the top ones. Regarding acrylic primers, I had the same issues with Vallejo, then I started using the MiG One Shot Primer (supposed to be a rebranding of the very good Stynylrez primers) and I m very happy with it. But I recently tried the new, 3rd Generation AK Interactive primers (black, grey & white) and I think they are at a different level, better than any other acrylic primer I have tried. Much better flow, no clogging & drying at the needle after long painting sessions, and very strong once dry (they dry very fast), no issues with lifting of paint with masking whatsoever. Highly recommended. If you can't fine the AK brand, the MiG One Shot is of course very good too.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thank very much for the primer recommendation, I’m sure I can get either one, my local hobby shop is well stocked. I’m currently trying Mr Surfacer, which is really high quality but a little too smelly for my indoor work bench, so I will look into the two you mentioned. Thanks for watching the video I’m glad you enjoyed it. Yeah, back in the day I wouldn’t have dreamed of doing a 72nd scale kit, but these days, I’m really enjoying them, plus they are easier to display! I can display 3 72nd scale kits in the same foot print as 1 48th scale kit.

[@manostroulinos1726]

@@HammerheadModelMaking So true! only problem is, our deteriorating eyesight (I am 55 years old now, with reading glasses and all....), which seems to worsen in reverse proportion to the detail improvement in small kits. Damn... 😅😅

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

@@manostroulinos1726 I have been fortunate to maintain my eyesight so far, but I'm sure it will catch up to me at some point!

[@kevinhedrich6026]

Great builds! Love the Wildcat! I really appreciate your commentary throughout the video as opposed to music and subtitles. Great job!

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thanks! I’m glad you are liking the commentary, I’ve been working on making it a little more natural and less like I’m reading from a script. But it’s also what I enjoy from other mode makers as well.

[@davidbacker9537]

I have the same problem with getting Black primers especially vallejo

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

I've been finding success with Alclad and Mr Sufacer primers.

[@somerandomjedi]

I know I’m like a year late, but I use that same Vallejo primer, I was also having issues with it pulling but I find that if I wait 1-2 days after applying it it won’t pull off.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Glad to hear you are getting good results with it, I've moved on from the vallejo primer, but perhaps sometime I'll give it another go! Thanks for your comment!

[@phillipware4911]

Wash the plastic sprue’s with warm soapy water and your hands. Dry with a hair dryer. Then with a large brush apply pink plastic prep, or IPA thinned 50/50 with deionised water. Then go over all the parts again with the water/IPA. Again dry with a hair dryer. You will never have a problem again. Moulds use releasing agent to make the sprue’s pop off the mould. Washing hands and plastic is a definite must.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Yeah, I've done the whole wash the plastic and all, and still run into issue with the Vallejo primer, I've since switched to other primers and no longer have the issue.

[@davidi4306]

Thanks for the video. I have built the Arma FM-2 and the Airfix Martlet IV. I also have a couple of the new Arma F4-F's to build. They have quite a different approach to the engine and mounting compared with the FM-2 kits.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Interesting, I wasn't aware Arma Hobby also made an F4F, I'll have to check it out!

[@jonathanhudak2059]

Loved this dual build of both of these lovely kits... sweet job on both!

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thank you so much, thanks for watching!

[@jonathanhudak2059]

@Hammerhead Model Making you're welcome thanks for doing these awesome vids!

[@marciomaiajr]

You mentioned something that concerns me too about Mr.Color lacquers and Mr.Surface primer. They are really good, but the smell is almost unbearable. I'm trying to go "full acrylic" in the future because of that. Without a good filtration system it's hard to use Mr.Color lacquers inside the house. Really nice build by the way. Thanks for sharing the build with us.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Yeah, the smell can be a concern especially for those who paint inside their home. I've gone mostly fully acrylic, I just still haven't found a good acrylic primer. Thanks for watching!

[@steves1112000]

MMP is excellent paint: thin using their own thinner. The spray quite nicely spray. the only time I don't use the NMP is with natural metals

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Awesome!

[@Majja13]

Fantastic build as always. I have used a bit of the Mission paint and really do like it. And after my almost complete repaint of my p38 I have sworn off the AK Acrylic (3rd gen) primer as well. And yes that one cured for almost a week and was washed before hand. On the brighter side with my mask and an open window I have used the Mr Surfacer 1500 and do quiet like that.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thanks Matt, yeah, I never could figure out the AK paint well. Mr Surfacer is on the list to try out.

[@Majja13]

@@HammerheadModelMaking Mr surfaced has been my goto for exteriors. i would love to see how it compares to the ratter can. I usually thin it a tad with MLT and spray through the .05 airbrush.

[@thadrobinson8343]

You're quite lucky to have the MRS hobby shops in SLC and Sandy. I got to visit them earlier this year and was impressed. There's only one hobby shop left in my city of over a million souls, and it's offerings are basic at best. I don't much bother with "primer" as such anymore; my go-to area coverage paints are Tamiya and Gunze thinned for airbrushing with either Mr. Color Leveling Thinner or lacquer thinner from the hardware store. Coverage is excellent and unlike Vallejo they stick to the raw plastic very well.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Yes sir, I do consider myself quite lucky to be so close to great hobby shops. I try to take advantage of them when ever I can to support them. Thats interesting you have moved away from traditional primers. I have noticed other modelers who do that as well. Do you still base coat that model in a single color? Or, just go straight ahead with the paint scheme? I find that in addition to its duties as a primer, it also doubles as my base color when doing mottling or "black basing" techniques. Thanks for watching! Brett

[@thadrobinson8343]

@@HammerheadModelMaking I'll often use a dark basing color-- not necessarily a blackity black-- in lieu of a traditional "primer." It has the same effects of unifying the model and revealing flaws, with the bonus of being a dark base. Typically I prefer to do most marbling and shading in post-production, this allows me to bring the decals into the process rather than having fresh-looking markings over a pre-weathered paint job. But that's not to say I don't utilize some pre-shading and undertoning.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

@@thadrobinson8343 cool, thanks for the additional info!!

[@r.a.monigold9789]

Great idea. Good results that should save us time in choosing our own "favorite". Thanks...

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

I mean, when it really comes down to it, they are both good kits. But yes, everyone will have their favorite, and if I've made it a little easier to choose, then I am happy!

[@kevinhedrich6026]

I love Wildcats! I think I've watched this vid about 4 times. Both beautiful builds!

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thanks Kevin! Glad to see this video still gets some love!

[@chrissakal532]

The F4F is a Marine airplane of VMF-223 which was based at 'Fighter One' on Guadalcanal, so the weathering is appropriate.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Awesome, good to know!

[@truthhurts9241]

This is the first one of your videos I have watched. Liked it and subscribed. I'll probably spend the evening watching more content and surrender the TV remote to the Missus. I read through some of the comments and was amused at the "local hobby store" references. I live in England so it's really a case of Internet or nothing now.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Welcome to the crew! I will be the first to admit that I am quite spoiled to have a local hobby shop, it is rather convenient. Thanks for the sub!

[@chrismawson4185]

I use vallejo mecha black primer which drys satin however is less prone to peeling i no longer use the black or grey standard primer only white mecha or black mecha

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

I'll have to give that stuff a try!

[@runesvensson1244]

That's Vallejo for you... I've paintet a ship hull-red with Vallejo. I could peel it of with a nail 14 days after. After 14 months, however, it seems to stick OK.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Yeah, I really only use it now for priming stuff I know I wont need to mask, or mask very much.

[@schecterman5466]

Depending on the scale, if you want wires try guitar strings, you can go to Guitar center and tell them you need one or strings, High E string. They come in all different sizes. So figure out what size the wire is and get the corresponding guitar string (probably 7, 8, or 9’s would be good)

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Not a bad idea, thanks for sharing!

[@johnnewcome9730]

Great video and demonstration of modeling techniques. I learned a lot and will watch this video again. The comparison of the two levels of kits was very interesting. Is the more expensive kit really worth the extra $$. Great Job!

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Glad you enjoyed it! From what I've learned about Arma Hobby kits, they are always worth the money and their FM-2 is no exception. Its an exceptional kit, with great details, lots of extras, and many decal choices. On a technical level, the FM-2 is slightly different than the F4F, most notably the location of the exhaust and the profile of the tail. So, if you really want an FM-2 in 72nd scale, than the Arma Hobby kit is really the only option. I think the biggest difference is that the Arma Hobby kit doesn't come with the option for folded wings. So, if that is a detail that is important to you, then go for the Airfix kit. Ultimately, they are both good kits for different reasons and you really can't go wrong with either!

[@surturiel]

Crucial for getting the primer to adhere properly is to prewash everything with warm water and kitchen cleaner/degreaser (the mild spray ones). Rinse it, let it dry for a day, and the primer will hold a lot better.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thanks for the tips, I'll be sure to try that out!

[@Drewsmodels]

Badger Stynlrez primer!! Really cool builds. I built the Airfix Wildcat and really enjoyed it. Take care! Drew

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thanks Drew! I'll add Stynlrez to the list of primers to try. -Brett

[@daniellambrecht5937]

I found you need to shoot the stynlrez wet. But, It levels lovely and is tough as nails from my experience.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

@@daniellambrecht5937 Thank you for the tip, thats good to know.

[@Drewsmodels]

@@HammerheadModelMaking you won’t be disappointed!

[@Drewsmodels]

@@daniellambrecht5937 yep….no thinner

[@mikebelt6668]

I'm wanting to get into building models I have built cars never planes how many hours does it normally take to build one our your beautiful models thanks for any help you can give I know time depends on amount of detail and size

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thanks for watching, for smaller kits like these, generally between 15-20 hours (not including drying time) For some of my larger 1/48 scale project, they run run up to 30+ hours.

[@alc4937]

Great dual build. I'm currently working on the ArmaHobby FM-2 and the landing gear assembly just about killed me. Too fiddly and frail. Not sure why some of the separate parts couldn't have been a single piece!

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Yeah, it was a little over engineered!

[@captainobvious9233]

Haven't got an Arma kit yet, but they have them at my local Hobby Shop. I believe that each plane they have comes in 3 different skill levels. The photo-etched kit must be the highest level.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Yes, I this one was listed as an "Expert Set".

[@eb311235]

Stynylrez primer is my go to.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Sounds like Stynylrez will be my next purchase, many people have have recommended it.

[@rons5438]

Very nice parallel builds and a great video! I'm with you on the Vallejo Primer. Unfortunately I bought six large bottles of it in various colors before realizing it sucks and doesn't hold up to masking nor abrasions very well. I love Vallejo paint, so how can the primer not be just as good, right?!?! Now I use it for items that don't need masked or that won't get handled (figures, interiors, etc...) And for the colored bottles I use it in place of paint if appropriate. For my new go-to primer I am using Mr. Surfacer 1200 or 1500, but it is not pleasant to smell, so I try to do it as the last step before a break when possible. I do have a spray station that I vent out a window, but even with the vent on high the vapors spread through the room so I still wear a respirator when spraying it and try to vacate the room for a few minutes a let the vent run to remove the vapors that spread. But I use it because it practically makes the paint bullet proof and holds up to even the roughest handling or weathering.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thanks for your experience. I also enjoy Vallejo’s normal paint so I agree it’s surprising how little I enjoy their primer. It’s sounding like mr surfacer is 1 of 2 primers I will be trying. Thanks for watching!

[@Thetindallman]

I know you were asking about primers, but you should really try tamiya paints. They’re great alchohol based paints, don’t smell too bad, and very fine realistic colors. They have flat and gloss versions, mini and large jars, and they’re also great for paint brushing. I’m sure you already know about them though. I just wish tamiya would make more unique colors like duck egg green or zinc chromate

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

I do occasionally use Tamiya paints, I really like their whites and yellows and Nato black, but I find that the Tamiya color range is really limited and I just don't like mixing paints.

[@Thetindallman]

@@HammerheadModelMaking that’s a great point. I wish they had more colors too. Didn’t expect you to respond though thank you for the reply!

[@richelias2973]

Very nice job on both and good info. Thanks

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

[@stephenkastory2322]

I really enjoyed watching this video. I have the Airfix kit, I am planning on getting a arma hobby kit. Both companies make a Hurricane mk 1 their is a suggestion for another similar build.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Good point, I forgot they both make a hurricane. I'll have to add those the list of things to get!

[@murraykriner9425]

Enjoyed your efforts, and your choices in models to do. Much of your painting would be easier to apply, should you do a few preparatory exercises. The water-based colors require straining after thinning to aid in application while reducing the larger atomization pattern. To foil the paint adhesion woes, put just the smallest drop of rubbing alcohol to relieve surface tension, to help increase proper paint bonding.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

I appreciate the tips, what material would your recommend for straining the paint? Just to be clear, when you say rubbing alcohol do you mean isopropyl alcohol?

[@murraykriner9425]

@@HammerheadModelMaking the 100 size works best for most airbrush applications unless the body of color uses heavier pigments. Yes, just the drugstore variety will suffice to relieve any surface tensions, though I will admit their is often headaches with mold release agents from forming the styrene pieces. That usually dealt with by cleaning the parts with Dawn Dish Soap.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

@@murraykriner9425 Thank you!

[@murraykriner9425]

@@HammerheadModelMaking my pleasure. We modeling types really must support each other's efforts.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

@@murraykriner9425 I agree 100%!

[@HobbyModeller]

Good video and 2 great models. I'm amazed at how great Airfix's cheaper plane looks. Fantastic work 😄👍.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thanks man! Honestly, I think that the Airfix 72nd scale kits are some of the best value for the money available. I enjoy them!

[@griffia]

If you want water based try the stynelrez

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thank you, that one has many recommendations, I will give it a try!

[@TheModelorian]

Very nice video, HMM! Although I‘m not that WWII Warbird type of modeler, I really loved the results! Both models turned out great and I honestly enjoyed the video! Great job!!! Cheers and best regards from Germany!

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thanks Man, much appreciated!! Thanks for watching! Cheers!

[@discoplumber]

Do you wash the parts before you undercoat them? I use the vallejo primers with an airbrush and I;ve never had any come off while masking, I always run everything through an ultra sonic cleaner though to get rid of any mold seperator on the plastic.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

When it comes to plastic models, I don't often wash them. I usually don't have any issues with my other primers, even on the same problem.

[@discoplumber]

@@HammerheadModelMaking I mostly do Gundam RG and MG and all of those need a run through, been a while since I did any airfix or anything but I'm just so used to running everything through an ultra sonice I do it with any 40K stuff when I get around to painting those. The Gundams for sure need cleaned before painting but that may have more to do with them beng pre coloured and the plastic they use. Honestly never had any problems with Vallejo, Alclad and GW paints, had some with Turbo Dork but I think that was more my thinning than the actual paints

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

@@discoplumber I'll definitly do some tests with cleaning the sprues in advance, see if that helps. Thanks for the info!

[@spiz555s3]

Just use Badger Stynylrez primer or Ammo One shot which is the same primer, I think they are probably the best acrylic primers. I have also tried Mission Models which worked fine as well....

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Awesome, thanks for the info!

[@frankwittner1979]

I agree the best way to fix the Vallejo primer issue is not to use it the Stynylrez/MiG one shot is also acrylic same as the Vallejo but it is very thick you’ll have to crank up the pressure and jus hose it on but it self levels beautifully and stands up to masking and can be sanded

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

@@frankwittner1979 awesome, thanks for the additional info!

[@liam5733]

Great video and some neat little tips. Question for you - How do you make your whip antennas? They are something I have been struggling with lately. Cheers!

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thank you for watching, The whip antennas are made from stretched sprue.

[@pavelprochazka4343]

Beautiful models and hilarious instructional video. 🇺🇲💯👌😎

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

I’m glad you enjoyed the video!

[@43srgrock]

again love the videos, awesome build.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@thierryb9178]

Très beau travail

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Merci!

[@peterfuller5441]

Are you leaving primer long enough to cure, at least 24 hrs

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Yes sir, 24 hours is the minimum I allow it to cure, often times longer. I've left a project to sit for over a week, came back to mask, and pulled up half the primer. I also wash the plastic to remove any release agent or greasy finger prints.

[@SprueFascinationChannel]

Lovely builds 👍 Subscribed.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thanks for the sub!

[@phillipware4911]

Use IPA and dilute with de ionised water. wash parts in warm water and washing up liquid, wash liberally with warm water, then paint on the diluted IPA. Then dry with hair dryer. Your Vallejo will now stick like sh1 to a blanket. Mould release lubricant,and hand oils, are causing your lack of paint adhesion.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

See, I though that may be the problem, but this is the only primer I ever have trouble with and I don't do anything different prep wise with other primers. So, I'm not convinced its that.

[@willthorson4543]

To complete these you need to do 2 more. Atlantic scheme(grey/white) and a British one. Lol

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

I’m totally planning on it! I’ve built a martlet in the past, but it still had American markings, so I’ll need to do one in proper British markings.

[@willthorson4543]

@@HammerheadModelMaking my bratwurst fingers keep me away from 72nd. So im looking forward towards eduards wildcat. I'm more 32nd and 35th guy. But i enjoy good quality work. Oh and don't forget an all blue wildcat. The Boeing museum of flight has a late wildcat from one of the baby flattops. Can't remember the name but it looked great in all dark blue.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

@@willthorson4543 I'll add an all blue Wildcat to the list! I am also looking forward to the New Eduard Wildcat!

[@thecreekwalker0174]

Fm2 had the same engine as the b17

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

I didn't know that, thanks for sharing!

[@benjames8406]

Rattle can primers are usually much more intrusive than Mr Surfacer or other airbrush primers. If you are already comfortable using rattle cans indoors I would say Mr Surfacer is a step down imo.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

I don't do the rattle cans indoors, I do them out in the garage if the weather is bad, or out in the backyard.

[@6axlepwr]

Don't use Vallejo primer. Just us a Tamiya gray paint. I have not found a primer I like. So until then. I use XF80 Royal Light Gray thinned 50% with Mr. leveling Thinner.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Yeah, at this point I’ve relegated the Vallejo primer to a few interior parts that don’t require masking. I still like how it sprays and the finish it gives, but won’t use it anywhere I need to do any masking.

[@TheSwedeMcCoy]

Stynylrez (AMMO One Shot/UMP Ultimate Primer) is by far the best water based primer out there. Vallejo's primer is pure crap. The best primer on the market though is Mr Surfacer but then you'll need a paint booth that can vent the toxic fumes.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Yeah, I've moved on to other primers for the most part now, Mr Surfacer being a good one. I still need to give the Stynylrez a try though.

[@frankphillips5533]

Why is it that people who have air brushes love to put on 25 layers of paint no-one will see ? Perhaps it's the orange-peel finish that they like all their kits to have ?

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Not every layer is meant to be seen. Some layers are meant to assist in the next layer, either paint, decals, or weathering and can help make whatever step comes next be a little easier. Also, there are certain things that don't pick up well on camera that are more subtle in person. I also get that not every style is suited to every modeler, so do what ever works best for you.

[@frankphillips5533]

@@HammerheadModelMaking I do actually know a few modelers that do truly amazing things without a bevy of levels and produce the same result. I do pay attention to others when it makes sense. but I will take your statement that seeing it live is better because that does make sense. Cheers

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

@@frankphillips5533 I don't doubt that others can achieve the same or better results with fewer steps and I would be the first to admit that I still have a lot to learn (getting a good natural metal finish still eludes me) so if there are some modelers you would recommend I'll check them out. Thanks, Brett

[@a41166]

It is clear what you wanted to do with this video: make people think that it is not worth buying a Wildcat from ARMA hobby since the difference is tiny with the one from Airfix, which is cheaper. Well, I'm sorry to tell you that any intelligent modeler, if they wanted to waste their time doing something so obvious, would tell you that the Airfix Wildcat looks like the ARMA hobby Wildcat like an egg to a chestnut and that Airfix buyers are those who they are content with a mediocre appearance in their models.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

I apologize if that’s the impression you got from my conclusion. I was hoping to make it clear throughout the video that I really enjoyed both kits and would highly recommend both of them. Any lean towards the Airfix kit was just my personal preferences based on the price and options, but the Arma hobby kit is by no means inferior. It’s clear from your comment that Airfix has left a bad taste in your mouth, and I get that. We all have our preferences in this hobby. I am however, saddened about your generalization that Airfix modelers are unintelligent and only strive for mediocrity. I find that type of elitist rhetoric is harmful and has no place in our hobby.

[@a41166]

@@HammerheadModelMaking Maybe it's a bad translation of the google program. I didn't mean to say that the modellers who prefer Airfix are not intelligent, it is quite possible that within their aspirations they are more so than others who choose a more "complicated" modelling. My reference to the intelligence of the modelers is related to the fact that those who are modelers will not waste time arguing or even discussing which kits are better, since it is obvious. In my opinion, Airfix is ​​aimed at a relatively young modeler, with relatively few economic possibilities for the purchase of the kit or for any other aspect. For this reason they are kits with a normally low price and for this there cannot be a detailed and complicated manufacture of the kits as this would make it more expensive. This is what makes Airfix, although some people may not like it, a "second division" kit manufacturer. It cannot be argued that as a general rule Airfix kits are on a par with similar kits from brands like Tamiya, Hasegawa, Eduard, the recent kits from Special Hobby or Clear Prop or ARMA Hobby. ICM kits are up there with Airfix on price however the panel lines for example are much narrower and nicer

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

@@a41166 I think I understand better what you are trying to say, and yes, In general I would agree that kits from the likes of Tamiya are much better on a technical level. I disagree however that Airfix is a 2nd tier manufacturer that caters to younger/less experienced modelers. I built their 1:48 P-51D last year and it was a fantastic kit. Well detailed, accurate, and a fun modeling experience. I would definitely not call that kit aimed at beginners. I think the difference with Airfix is that their modern kits don’t have the benefit of the decades of experience that Tamiya has. Airfix has been improving and continues to improve and I’ve seen very skilled modelers take the most basic Airfix kit and turn out some amazing models. But, in the end you get out of the hobby what you put into it. I don’t think there is anything wrong with sticking to the brands that you are happy with! And ultimately, my goal of the video was to provide a look at both kits so that viewers of all skill can determine which would be best for them. I wish you the best in your model making efforts!

[@NickGalaz]

Thats not the right camo paint for the f4f airfix... wrong paint. Its a light blue... the paint used by that plane in ww2. The blue u painted is the one used in the f6f and f4u.

[@HammerheadModelMaking]

Thanks for the correction, good thing I can always build more to get it right!

[@NickGalaz]

@@HammerheadModelMaking please do more! I would like to see you building some Macchi 202 or Fw190 Eduard vs Airfix.