Hand Rubbed Guitar Finish Part 2 Filling the Grain

In this video, I explain my technique for filling grain in woods like Mahogany and Ash. Show your support! Visit www.eguitarplans.com/ and buy a plan. Or visit highline-custom-guitars-2.cre... and buy a shirt!

[@Uncle_Buzz]

Chris, brilliant! I'm all about anything homemade, including finishes. Thanks a lot, great audio too. Cheers, Chris.

[@kelleyreece9520]

Bless you sir! I’ve been preparing to execute this kind of finish for a piece of furniture. All the other tutorials explained a similar process but weren’t very thorough about each step and the sequence of the steps. Thank you thank you thank you!

[@freeelectron8261]

Great finishing techniques really well presented. You sir are a really good communicator!

[@jimistheman9732]

Excellent tip! Much better than those commercial products I use this same mixture as an "oil finish" polyurethane. Mix 50/50, apply like an oil finish. Gives you a nice antique look with the protection of poly.

[@easysamuel3144]

Thank you Chris for these videos... you've really inspired me, and I'm currently refurbishing a scrap Bass guitar I got from my local church. It's going pretty well😁

[@edcaffey4248]

Excellent process. I will use your method to finish my guitar. Thank you for sharing. Also, great video...

[@jonmullins8460]

Thanks for this. Straight to the point without a lot of fluff. When I use a paper towel for a finish, I just take them straight to the fire pit and burn them.

[@michaelrickert7999]

Great video. In the seventies I used oil based wood filler for black walnut. I can't find it now until I viewed your video. Thanks.

[@CrowClouds]

Lol rare intro. Thanks for all your vids. You're one of my go to's. You and Crimson

[@DavidLaFerney]

Yup - exactly what I do too. After trying all kinds of commercial grain fillers. This isn’t just less expensive - it’s easier and better. BTW - 50/50 poly and thinner is the same as wipe on polyurethane - my second favorite finish - wipe on shellac aka French polish being my #1. Even then I use the same grain filler.

[@Thirdgen83]

Definitely looks nice.

[@michaelquillen2679]

With more porous woods (like ash), the 320 grit will take forever to fill the pores. I use a 120 grit on ash to build the slush to fill the pores.

[@1truemoose]

Very informative. Thanks.

[@josephfelice601]

Nice job!!!

[@lauried.2708]

What can be used instead of mineral spirits? Some of the best alternatives include; denatured alcohol, turpentine, acetone, and charcoal lighter fluid.

[@maicobotega7195]

Amazing job man! I've a Mahogany body to finish... So i was thinking about to finish It with tru-oil... Before the tru-oil application... should I to aplly some sealer first? Should I sanding with 320 sand paper between coats? Thank's as well...

[@robertsloan3272]

Chris...thank you for your educational videos. Did you apply any type of finish on the back/sides after completing the grain fill process? Thank you in advance for your reply.

[@terrywin2661]

Hey Chis, can this be done with Tung oil instead of boiled linseed oil? I have a container of it that I've never really gotten around to using, and would hate to just throw it out. Thanks in advance for any info.

[@MacQ1955]

I can see the "snobs" turning up their noses at the use of polyurethane (you know, the ones who think nitrocellulose is the only way to go...and couldn't in a million years hear the difference between nitro and poly). LOL I have no problems with polyurethane and use it (a wiping mix of mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil and poly) on a great many wood projects. With a satin sheen, it does not look artificial at all. Your results here are proof of that. As for my guitars, I avoid the poly because of the "snobs" Instead, I have my own varnish mix of boiled linseed oil, soy oil, and alkyd resins...then cut it with mineral spirits. I just tell people it's my own, home-brewed, cooked "instrument varnish" (they then start thinking of finishes on fine acoustic guitars and violins). LOL Poly, nitro, alkyds...it's all about protecting that beautiful finish and making the instrument aesthetically pleasing to the eye and ear. Have never tried the Behlen pumice stone. I can see it making things go quicker when trying to fill in the pores/grain. I'm going to give that a try on my next natural finish guitar (unless the customer wants a totally natural look to the wood).

[@ryanormandy2532]

This looks great. Would this work on less porous body woods like alder?

[@user-uo9br9ek3c]

Was wondering what product to lock in color after I apply a dye or stain. Plan on using stew Mac concentrated dye or stain amber,red,& black.for classic burst ! Hope it works. My first kit build I've painted quite a few but never a kit.

[@jaa2412]

Hi Nice video serie! I 'm currently building my first guitar, and want to color it with dyes (Rit all purposes dye). My guitar body is made of poplar. Should I use your method of filling the grain with poly+mineral spirits (I can use Wipe-on-poly, right?) before or after I apply the dye color? Or should do both? Can I spray sanding sealer after the dyes are dry, or it is not necessary? Can Wipe-on-poly be used as a clear coat without the boiled linseed oil? Sorry for to many questions Thanks a lot

[@autoxeir24]

So,can i use this mix of poly/mineral spirits as grain filler,right?This will work as sealer as well?Merry Christmas and congratulations for the nice video!

[@trayallebach3171]

could do this on a basswood body? would it turn out the same?

[@vonrikkor]

For oil soaked paper towels I put them in a zip-lock bag with enough water to "flood" them. They can be tossed right away.

[@edhampton415]

After the application of the pumice stone powder. How many coats of the Mineral spirit/poly mix do you apply prior to level sanding?

[@stonephilips9361]

What do you use to clean and protect the finish on the body..

[@wge0219]

Is the finish you put on the back your final Finish?

[@cv4wheeler]

Is the mix just not home made wipe on poly?

[@KountryCuz1]

You just invented Sanding Sealer Nice Thanks

[@dkrecording3324]

do you custom just neck?

[@tonynurse1121]

Hi Chris, at the beginning of this video, you mention Danish Oil, but you make your own. Here in the UK we can buy Danish Oil and I have some. One of the best companies are called 'Rustins'. I've read the label and it contains Tung Oil. Opening the lid, and it's clearly an oil based polyurathane mix. I would very much appreciate your opinion, -Tony

[@GREENMTGENE]

Amazing thank you

[@charlesharper7292]

Used as a grain filler, is the urethane color neutral, to not affect the color of the intended stain color?

[@jaythomas5895]

this just had saved me some time

[@Surtac100]

Shouldn’t you put on the oil first and let it soak in wood then seal it with poly?

[@craftedworkshop]

Loving this series! Perfect timing as I'm about to begin finishing my first guitar project, videos on my channel if you want to check it out.

[@garethwynn01]

This is a really helpful guide. I want to finish a swamp ash body with a hand rubbed finish like this. I'd like to give the wood a honey colour. Presumably I'd stain first and then perform this grain filling technique. Does that sound right?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Yes, that's what I would do.

[@jerasowilo8817]

Very interesting video. I am in the process of doing a mahogany body from Warmoth pre sanded with 220 grit. However I ordered some Tru Oil, would the same method of doing pore filling with a 320 wet/sand paper and Tru Oil work the same way?

[@Iam_Dunn]

Jera Sowilo ...yup, it works exactly the same. I mainly work with TruOil and get excellent results. I don't thin the TruOil, I just use it as is with some wet/dry paper and fill the pores that way.

[@Vinyari]

What can I use instead of mineral spirits, as it is almost impossible to find here. Finishing an ash body bass guitar with boiled linseed oil, I also want to put some color into the filler to make the grain pop.

[@belapechnig4536]

Turpentine only a different name for it

[@Jose-qe2bh]

I have a water based gel stain I would like to put on a mahogany body. Should I put it before filling the grain or after? Will the oils and poly mess up with the water based stain? Thanks for such cool videos!

[@HighlineGuitars]

If you're going to use a water-based stain, I'd apply it first, let it dry, and fill the grain with a clear drying water-based grain filler. My favorite is Crystalac Wood Grain Filler.

[@z4ckncheese]

Do you wait for the sanding dust and liquid to dry and then put on more liquid and pumice, or do you do it all before the sanding dust dries?

[@burp1914]

Good question. I think the pumice/oil mix is used instead of wet sanding. I watched another video where he used a paint/dry wall compound mixture.

[@ElZito1]

Interesting technique, I've never seen grain filling done that particular way before. I also saw your vids using Solarez and was wondering if this grain filling technique would be compatible with Solarez?

[@HighlineGuitars]

+Bearz Garcia It would probably work, but I've never tested it to see if there are any compatibly issues. When I use Solarez, I use their grain filler.

[@ElZito1]

Thanx for the reply Chris, I didn't know that Solarez made grain filler. I will be trying the Solarez method for my finish when the time comes because it seems more cost effective...no compressor, spray gun, or booth to have to invest in. I will also look into their grain filler too and do some experimenting with it. Thanx again!

[@tommytorres5825]

Hello. Would you use this technique if you are planning to stain the guitar? Can you just sand off all the poly after it dries? Thanks

[@Iam_Dunn]

Tommy Torres ....I usually stain the wood first, then seal and finish. Looks like a very good method from the vid... :)

[@kevanbodsworth9868]

I´d like to do this but I am very nervous about disturbing the neck which is very good at present with a very action and easy of playing with full sound of strings.. Any suggestions I´d rather leave the neck on ,,

[@HighlineGuitars]

Don't do anything to it.

[@wildizer]

Hi. Thanks for sharing your techniques! I have just one question: You mentioned the boiled linseed oil then you don't use it. What do you need the Boiled Linseed Oil for? You don't mention it again in this video series. Please advise?

[@HighlineGuitars]

In this case, BLO is already in the polyurethane, so it isn't necessary to add more although you can if you feel it's needed to improve flow.

[@wildizer]

@@HighlineGuitars thanks for the quick reply! I've just come across your channel and subscribed. I love your videos. I'm starting a Telecaster kit and I'm going to do an oil paint burst with your techniques. Keep rockin' dude!

[@krank2kold]

How long did you let the mineral spirit & poly dry before you started your finish coat???

[@HighlineGuitars]

I let the build up coats dry overnight and wet sand the final coat the next day, so about 8-12 hours.

[@Terry3Gs]

wow, not sure what you did recently for camera's n such but your video looks & sounds great now !! And great tips !! :)

[@HighlineGuitars]

+terrybear And my vids will sound even better once I get my new mic.

[@Terry3Gs]

Highline Guitars Very nice !! :)

[@2216sammy]

Could you use only BLO for the finish on an ash guitar body ? I know it will take a lot of coats I'm just wondering if you wet sand between coats will it fill the pores eventually ? Thank you very much

[@HighlineGuitars]

You can wet sand in the BLO and it will eventually fill the pores.

[@Flip2Flower1]

I followed this and applied it to an unfinished banjo neck and resonator, but mine came out really light. Can I still apply a stain after this stage to get it darker?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I would sand off what you've applied to this point and rub in some stain. Then apply the oil/poly mix.

[@florascent9ts]

would it be okay to leave it right where it was at 8:20 if you were satisfied with how it looked? cause that's a look i'm going for personally.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Yes, you can stop at 8:20. I often stop there if I want the natural look and feel of the wood.

[@budgetguitaristcom]

Beautiful work. I wonder why you couldn't burn the rags - is it because the fumes would be toxic, the blaze would be too strong, both, neither?

[@HighlineGuitars]

+budgetguitarist.com I would think that burning rags would violate local and possibly federal laws due to emissions and the potential fire hazard. I haven't looked into this myself, but I'm fairly certain you'd need some kind of EPA approved incinerator.

[@beam664]

nice series, good explanation. Can I use these series to get an old vintage look. I have a fender telecaster and I want make a burned coting after I finished the steps of this series. Is that possible?

[@beam664]

Do you maybe have tips? I don't know if the kind of cothing has effect of the result when doing a burning finish. (maybe a burnig cothing can only done with paint and not with lacquer, I don't know)

[@beam664]

my guitar is made off essen wood :)

[@harry9392]

can you use 0000 wire wool for the grain and pours

[@z4ckncheese]

Harry Williamson no, the fibers will get stuck in the pores and rust

[@gordonsteeves9950]

sorta' something like French polish?? By the way, great video series on finishing.

[@sapelesteve]

Nice job, great looking finish! Question: Can you use this mixture as a final application on a guitar that already has a French Polish Shellac finish? I would want to use it on the neck, sides, & back of the guitar, not on the soundboard.............Thanks, Steve

[@HighlineGuitars]

If you're asking about the grain filler, I'd say no. It has to be applied before the French polish.

[@sapelesteve]

Hi: No, the guitar has already had the grain filler applied followed by Shellac base coats, then a French Polish finish applied. So, it's basically finished & I was just wondering if the 50/50 mixture of Mineral Spirits/Poly can be applied as a final coat over the FP? Thanks, Steve

[@HighlineGuitars]

Oh, I see. Yes, that mix can be applied over the French Polish. You might want to experiment with the ratio of thinner. I have found that you can go up to 90% poly and 10% mineral spirits. That will give you a faster build of poly. Test it first.

[@sapelesteve]

Thanks, I will give that a try..........

[@Deanr22]

Great method, I found it a lot easier and cleaner than using regular grain filler. How many times do you usually do this? Is once typically enough to fill mahogany grain? I tried this on my mahogany tele last night and it looks good to me but I'm worried when I apply finish I will find spots that I missed. Thanks.

[@Iam_Dunn]

Deanr22 ...I find that "lather, rinse, repeat" seems to do the trick... LOL. That is, doing it once, then letting it dry for 24hrs, then repeating, works really well... :)

[@gregsteffey1266]

Is that the final finish? Or do you go on to do some other final finish after this? This process is being called grain fill so I was not sure if there was a final step you would do like for a neck? I just did to a neck and am waiting overnight for it to dry. Thanks for the videos!

[@erniezamora9509]

? What about if I used hardwood oil sealer onthat it doesn't reduce that sound

[@HighlineGuitars]

I doubt it would have any effect on the sound unless you really poured it on.

[@randyzeitman1354]

When you filled the grain on the back you wet sanded until you got a sludgy mix ... does that get wiped off? If not how does the surface stay smooth? Is this technique more appropriate for larger pore woods? (whichever they are ... I'm reading both maple and mahogany have a dense pore pattern although maple is slightly dense).

[@HighlineGuitars]

Wipe off the excess leaving the mix in the grain and pores only. For larger grain and pores, the technique is the same, but it usually has to be done a few times to fill the voids.

[@randyzeitman1354]

@@HighlineGuitars Ok, thank you. I see. Rub until you get the sludge as that means it's not taking any more. May have to repeat as it's only going to accept so much as it's always making dust so you may need a fresh application. (Seems obvious now! Funny how learning occurs sometimes.)

[@tonynurse1121]

Great video. However, at the point where you had the spirit bottle and the polyurathane tin, you already had a liquid in the tub that you mixed these into. Can you please repeat what that was. I listened several times, but still didn't hear it. Also would you use the same finishing technique on a spalted maple top? Many thanks, from a UK 'visitor' - Tony

[@HighlineGuitars]

It equal parts poly and mineral spirits. When I make videos, sometimes I have the shoot a scene a couple of times and rather than empty the tub, I just kept adding to it.

[@tonynurse1121]

Thanks for your reply. I guess it was obvious you have added to a previous mix. I have some more questions but it's getting late here in the UK, so I may do it tomorrow. - Tony

[@waynebrown1394]

I wanted to use the finish that you use on the front with the blue oil paint. What do I need to do to an ash wood before using the oil paint or would you suggest a different method. I want the guitar to be blue but see the grain.

[@HighlineGuitars]

You could use 2 different shades of blue. A dark blue to enhance the grain and a lighter blue for the overall color.

[@waynebrown1394]

@@HighlineGuitars then use the same method to seal it like you did the top? I think I will do the top and sides like that then do the back of the body and the neck like you did the back. I will practice until I am sure but I like that idea. Thanks and I will look at some more of your videos for other parts of the build. Thank you for answering my question.

[@steveschaefer5835]

I just watch this through all the parts and you did not use the Linseed oil. When do you use that? Thanks

[@thrashfan4ever]

he did use the linseed i watched him pour it in the mix with the other stuff around 4 mintues into it

[@jamesgiant2342]

thrashfan4ever he did not use it only mentioned it.

[@EmtonGuitars]

With the poly method detailed here, would dye be able to be applied afterwards?

[@HighlineGuitars]

No. It should be applied before.

[@EmtonGuitars]

@@HighlineGuitars that’s what I was thinking. Thanks for the reply!

[@davewright5024]

What's a good filler for basswood soon to be painted with enamel paint out of a can

[@HighlineGuitars]

I would consider Z-Poxy Finishing Resin to fill the grain and harden the surface of the Basswood. After applying a couple of coats, let it dry about 12 hours, sand it smooth with some 220 grit and apply a coat of spray can shellac to seal. When the shellac is dry, lightly sand with 400 grit, clean the surface with a clean cloth and paint. If you are unsure about this, test on some scrap wood first to check compatibility.

[@davewright5024]

Highline Guitars. Oh ok thxs so much I love ur work and the videos are very informative a lot of guys do there videos with a lot of info in then and I know I've learned a lot from u as well thxs for posting all these keep up the gr8 work!

[@robertcdrake5453]

Is it possible and affordable to make a coloured varnish for mohagny??🤓

[@HighlineGuitars]

Artist oil paint (you choose the color) + mineral spirits + oil-based polyurethane. The ratios are up to you and will depend on the outcome you're after by testing of scrap wood.

[@jpreg2368]

Hi, i'm not able to find the minwax oil based polyurethane finish. Is it work with another oil based polyurethane finish (Varathane for example)? Is it working with a Polyurethane Varnish (Mineral spirit dilute it too).? Thank you for your answer.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Any oil-based poly will work.

[@jpreg2368]

@@HighlineGuitars does it works too with Polyurethane Varnish?

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@jpreg2368 When I say oil-based poly, that's the same thing as polyurethane varnish.

[@ChrisAlia123shredmadinsanity]

Hi Chris! Man I love your videos! Tomorrow is my first time ever staining and finishing a guitar.. Gonna be an maple neck through the middle Ibanez RG prestige maple neck thru with ash wings and was wondering if you have any tips on a good easy way to do a golden walnut stain with a wipe on poly finish.. I'm nervous cause of the two different woods right on the top.. Any help greatly appreciated!!

[@ChrisAlia123shredmadinsanity]

Wondering if I should wipe the stain on both or tape of the maple in the middle

[@HighlineGuitars]

It really depends on what you want for the final outcome. What parts do you want stained? The body and the neck? Or just the wings?

[@ChrisAlia123shredmadinsanity]

@@HighlineGuitars I'm thinking just wings and leave the middle natural cause it's a pretty 3 piece maple with 2 walnut stripes in the middle but whatever would look best and be easiest is probably the best route to go being a first timer..

[@ChrisAlia123shredmadinsanity]

@@HighlineGuitars Should I use minwax pre stain wood conditioner before I stain the wings?

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@ChrisAlia123shredmadinsanity Yes. It will help the stain absorb evenly especially in areas with open wood pores.

[@anagonz4887]

Sir can i use car clear coat after using oil finish

[@HighlineGuitars]

Yes, as long as the oil finish has completely dried and cured.

[@anagonz4887]

@@HighlineGuitars thank you po sir

[@Heartwing37]

Thank you for this tutorial! How do you know when you’re done and the grain is filled? Thank you!

[@HighlineGuitars]

You can see the grain, but you can't feel it.

[@thejohnirvineband]

Lahverly job

[@kelleyreece9520]

Question - are you supposed to do this grain filling process before or after applying a stain? my searches keep giving me conflicting information.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Here's my rule of thumb: If you're going to dye or stain, do that first and follow up with a clear grain filler. If you're going to use an opaque or tinted grain filler, apply that first and follow by applying a tinted clear coat.

[@kelleyreece9520]

Highline Guitars ok cool. You talked specifically about your polyeurethane and mineral spirits mix, but I don’t like that plastic-y feeling for furniture. Can I use Watch Danish Oil and mineral spirits? I plan to lacquer over it once the grain is filled in

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@kelleyreece9520 Guess what Watco Danish Oil is? Polyurethane and mineral spirits. It's all in how you apply it. Too thick and it feels like plastic.

[@kelleyreece9520]

Highline Guitars thank you! Didn’t know. I’m a beginner

[@m7alan7johnson7]

First time viewer. Great video. Here's my question. I can't help but think creating that sludge of wood dust and poly would dull the surface and cover to some extent, the beautiful wood grain. Of course, I'm probably wrong but ...why? Thanks for your reply.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Nope. When you mix wood dust with any liquid, it gets significantly darker so the "sludge" actually enhances the grain and pores.

[@m7alan7johnson7]

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks.

[@davidrussell8918]

That must be the california way to throw out your rags. In Iowa, ya burn em! I dont use poly, hate that stuff.I use shellac And alcohol. You have to do the back in sections because it dry fast, sand it back let it dry for a couple hrs. and your ready to Aply finish. I spray nitro on mine. In the winter , I use tru oil. Not as nice as nitro, nothing is.

[@cstgeorgegreen5761]

What if you dyed your guitar body with color?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Use a clear grain filler like Crystalac: thecrystalacstore.com/collections/all?page=2&sca_ref=47054.Mb3CZXZ6Od

[@michaelinglis8516]

How would this compare to a wipe on poly, would it be similar? As far as durability, gloss and its ability to build over a few coats? And possibly most importantly could this "Danish oil" finish shown here be buffed to a high gloss durable/thick finish? I was under the impression Danish oil and Poly type finishes were more different from one another with the former being a thinner hand rubbed style finish. My body will be all mahogany and it's a rather bland piece at that but I'm still set on staining it. I was going to use a wipe on poly after staining and use wet dry sandpaper for the first coat to grain fill but every walmart in the us has that minwax gloss poly and mineral spirits so if the resulting finish would be the same I'd rather go that way. ....I could have sworn wipe on poly and Danish oil weren't so similar but I'm reading up on a lot all at once so I could have missed the connection.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Danish oil and wipe on poly are similar in that they are linseed oil-based, but they are not the same. Danish oil penetrates into the wood while wipe on poly sits on the surface. Neither is the type of finish you should use to build a thick high gloss finish.

[@michaelinglis8516]

@@HighlineGuitars Once again thanks for the tip. As i said before I'm familiar with lacquer but not with buffing it to a high gloss and i assume a lacquer is what you were alluding to for getting a thicker high gloss finish. I suppose its not my goal to get a thick high gloss finish so much as it is to get a nice level even slightly gloss finish. Im normally really good at reading through info and weeding out the good and the bad. But to be honest im seeing a ton of conflicting info on the manufacturers product sheets and from one builder to another on the fourms (and thats not even including the stuff from the novices like myself which i wont even get into and skip over as much as possible lol). Your original point to try out my finish on a test piece is ringing more and more true. Im going to take the knowledge ive acquired and just try a couple methods and see what gets me the results im after. Again i appreciate the clear and concise no bs responses.

[@michaelinglis8516]

@@HighlineGuitars Hey HG, yesterday I decided to try staining(oil based) a piece of scrap wood then I did a wash coat (in my case considerably thinned poly with M.S.) and this morning I used a water based grain filler and sanded it back. I'm actually happy with the results and I still haven't hit it with a coat of wipe on which I imagine will only improve the look making it less dull. Has anything I just said stuck out to you as being problematic? Specifically using the oil based stain first THEN a water based filler? I know they make oil based filler but I just had some water based filler that I adapted by thinning with more water. I was hoping the wash coat would be enough to keep them separate and it seemed to. But this was on a small section of scrap wood that I sanded up to 400 grit before applying the oil based stain. My scrap piece wasnt mahogany or big enough to really show any blotches from the staining but I'm also wondering this. Would it be better to stand to 400 apply a wash coat(to keep the stain from being blotchy), let dry, apply stain let dry, apply 2nd wash coat, then filler etc.?As always, thanks for your time!

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@michaelinglis8516 It is critical that the oil-based stain be completely dried and cured before you apply the water-based filler or it won't adhere properly.

[@michaelinglis8516]

@@HighlineGuitars Got it. I'm rushing with the preliminary test pieces but that certainly wont be the case with the "official" test pieces or the work/guitar body. Again I appreciate the tip. I'll probably give the oil based stain a bit longer than is "nessesary" just to be safe.

[@halfhuman2.0]

I thought that was cooking oil, i try at my own, and now i break my guitar into the pieces.

[@blackbirdpie217]

All oil based finishes are unavailable in CA. Gone.

[@alainleblanc4788]

But artists oil paints are still available, just thin with mineral spirits, same thing as tinted oil wood stain

[@roguecthulhu6002]

OMG, the auto focus is killing my eyes.

[@Ricken2022]

Did you not grain fill it already in your first video, why are you doing again.

[@HighlineGuitars]

No. I prepped the surface.

[@MGL83]

This may be a naive question, but why grain fill at all? I understand that this way you get the wood smoother, but filing the grain seems like covering it with a bit of wood dust and varnish gunk. Wouldn't clear open grain wood be more natural and interesting texture? Unless it's just as preparation before painting?

[@z4ckncheese]

MGL it depends if you want a smooth finish or not

[@dr.banana2828]

just burn the rags :p

[@jimistheman9732]

I put them outside. FYI - Mineral spirits is bad, but Linseed oil is the worst for spontaneous combustion.