Handmade Puukko Knife From A Broken Sawblade

In this video, I take an old broken sawblade and turn it into a Finnish inspired Puukko knife. This knife had my most complicated, decorated handle yet and I am super pleased with how it turned out. I hope you enjoy, if you do, consider leaving a like or subscribing for more content, it helps alot!
Check out my website where my knives are for sale - shop.byham.co.uk/
Check out my Instagram - / byhamknives

[@user-gm4kq4mi9b]

Хорошее видео. Отличная работа!

[@jeffreycarter1223]

I dig it, prolly would have done some sort of spacer so the handle materials don’t clash so much. But it’s very pretty, I like the natural material aesthetics.

[@dy-sh7ig]

great job.. setiap orang memiliki ide briliant untuk menjadikan barang yang tidak berguna menjadi berguna kembali.. keep spirit and stay creative..

[@byhamknives4708]

Thank you!

[@user-hr4ie7oz5g]

Хорошая работа

[@chimpanzee341]

Just made a bone knife took inspiration from these videos thanks

[@user-cc3qg4iu4z]

Привет из России! Ножи супер у тебя!!!

[@fulanodetal32]

I have some sawblades like that. Any idea what kind of steel they are? Ive made a few Ulu knives from them. Very hard to drill holes for handle pins

[@byhamknives4708]

There's no easy way to find out the type of steel unfortunately, but in saw blades, it's often very hard and very brittle as you find them. You would have to aneal the steel before drilling any holes by heating it up to a cherry red colour, and letting it cool very slowly. That should soften it enough to drill.

[@Andrey_Afonin]

На сколько работа хороша?, клинок сырой, закаленный клинок из р6м5 данной фрезы алмазы у меня не берут а тут наждачкой шлифует, закалку с данной температуры 850-900гр. эта сталь не возьмёт.

[@theodoreplume4861]

Is grinding steel bad for your lungs even if you wear a respirator?

[@bahur47]

Hey , you made an awesome knife. I have some suggestions. Try not to cover the piece that you work on with your hands or body when you film and if it was a bit brighter it would be nicer. Also your antler piece was not the best size for your handle so you reached the porous part . Anyways keep it up :)

[@byhamknives4708]

Thanks for the advice! I often find myself in the moment while working and forget I'm filming. Only realise the footage isn't amazing when I come to edit. And yes, it was my first time working with antler like this so I have alot to learn.

[@Andrey_Afonin]

Закалка можно сказать отсутствует, на первичку 1150гр. отпуск только с "бубнами", и только тогда удовлетворительный результат, алмазы действительно не берут. Другого пути в домашних условиях нет.

[@lamproknives]

That's a beautiful knife but unfortunately way too brittle.. The steel you're using is super HSS. It's made to cut steel, and is super hard. Tempering doesn't work on it, it doesn't get any softer before reaching 500°C.. So even a high temper wouldn't make it strong enough to make a good knife. I've done a knife or 2 with this kind of steel, and it's basically like ceramic knives. No shock, no hard use, no flex, or it'll break... So I'm afraid it's not a great choice for a pukko. Heating the steel to make it softer is called annealing, not normalizing 😉 Normalizing is another part of the heat treat process. Overall it's a beautiful knife but bad steel choice, too bad but that's part of the learning process 🙂

[@byhamknives4708]

It's actually very flexible. I too was cautious when I started the knife, as I was able to break pieces of the saw blade easily but after the heat treat and temper I stuck it in a vice and put all my weight on it. Supprisingly it bent to at least a 45 digree angle and then sprung back up to straight. Not entirely sure what I did but it worked.

[@lamproknives]

@@byhamknives4708 oh then it's fine, I'm suprised. My bad, it's probably not super HSS as I assumed, anyway it's a great knife !

[@bartweijs]

Well; it's a beautifull knife, and the steel choice is OK; but when I saw you dunk it in the oil, I expected it to shatter. It didn't, so I rewatched the video and probably have an answer :-) the steel used in these is commonly M42 HSS or 1.3247 (you can find a datasheeth here: ucpcdn.thyssenkrupp.com/_legacy/UCPthyssenkruppBAMXAustria/assets.files/download/werkzeugstahl_schnellarbeitsstahl_datenblatt_tk_3247_de.pdf). This is an air hardening high steep steel used for metal cutting. This steel is very highly alloyed, and requires ridiculous temps to harden throughout.... literally 1160 to 1190 degrees C (almost 2150 degrees F). This is very light coloured yellow. When you "annealed" the blade; you actually just tempered it back to HRC 50 to 55. I betcha it didn't like to grind even annealed (and you can hear this in the screetching of the needle file). Suprisingly, it isn't very wear-resistant at that hardness. When you hardened it in oil; you didn't really hardened it completely, as you didn't reach the required temp nor kept it long enough, as this steel requires a long soak. So coupled with decarburization - this steel really likes to decarb- you probably end up with a good knife. And now you also know why few knifemakers use this steel, even tough it can make good knives.