How to cut a thread on a manual lathe (Intermediate method ideal for home workshop & hobby engineer)

How to cut threads on a lathe is a fundamental skill of any machine operator. This is an intermediate method that is ideal for most applications and lends itself perfectly to the home workshop and hobby engineer. Cutting threads on the lathe this way is both fast and low risk. The basic way to cut threads on a lathe is very slow. The more advanced way to cut threads on the lathe is a little more risky and you are more likely to make a mistake. It's not hard and i'm sure you are more than capable, there is just more to do and therefore more opportunities to make a mistake. I think this method of cutting threads on the lathe is a good compromise between the two. The beauty of cutting threads on a lathe using this method is it is very versatile. If you need to stop thread cutting and do another operation you can just come back to it and the tool with pick up where you left off. You can't to this with the basic method...
I was asked to make a new motorbike axle for a friends flat track motorbike. The axle is turned from S275 which is a steel with a yield strength of 275 MPa. It machines nicely and has good shock loading properties making it ideal for this application. The Axle consists of three diameters with an M14x1.5 thread on one end for a nut.
Here is a recap of the order of operations for cutting a thread on the lathe using this method.
First set up your part, tool, speeds and feeds.
Colour in the area you want to thread and do a scratch pass.
Check the scratch pass with a thread gauge.
Cut your threads.
Clean up with a file, emery paper, and scotchbrite.
For the actual thread cutting:
1) Wait for your number on the thread dial indicator
2) Then your number lines up, engage the half nuts.
3) The thread is cutting.
4) At the end of the thread, dis-engage the half nuts.
5) Withdraw the tool in the -X Direction. (+X if threading internally)
6) Move back in Z direction to your start point.
7) Put on your next cut and repeat until down to size.
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Cheers,
Rob
- Handmade Extreme -
Disclaimer: This video is meant for educational and entertainment purposes only. It is in no way meant to be a set of instructions and therefore no attempt should be made by any party to recreate what has been seen in this video. Any attempt to do so is done completely at your own risk.

[@nathanhastings8293]

It is more imortant that you are taking the time to show someone how to do something . Good on ya mate

[@Barrybushski-ge3kf]

My two cents worth……..engaging and disengaging the half nut lever is only done when you are cutting very long threads. With most typical threads such as this you simply withdraw the tool quickly at the end of cut and put the machine into reverse to get back to your start.

[@joeypolaris]

I agree. Where you disengage and engage the half nut, it doesn’t always go back exactly the same. Especially with an older lathe. You can easily cut the thread too deep or too wide usually when doing final cuts.

[@union310]

Great if you can reverse!

[@andymodeller965]

Nicely done sir. In the early 80's I was fortunate enough to have my employer fund a full 5 year mechanical engineering apprenticeship. This Brough back happy memories. Excellently and precisely explained.

[@Handmadeextreme]

Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it. I too was lucky to be in a similar situation where my employer at the time put me through college. On the job training or 'learn as you earn' is a great way to gain both knowledge and experience in my opinion.

[@crystalgreco5699]

This is the method I have learned on the manual lathes. and always used. I used to make spindles for axles on semi tractors and stuff. Then I went to school for CNC and was smitten. Thank you for explaining this so well

[@Handmadeextreme]

Your welcome. Glad you enjoyed it.

[@CafeRacerGarage]

Dude that was awesome 👏 Thank you for sharing this

[@Handmadeextreme]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks.

[@heXbelongs2me]

well it's a lathe kzbin.infoUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.

[@guyloren]

Superb video mate,& demystified manual threading massively for me- been having to use retention screws instead of threaded parts on my hobby project due to lack of time to get trained up,& this has given me a mental grounding in the process to get started threading future builds.Brilliantly clear explanation- much obliged,sir!

[@BLECHHAUS]

That's how I learned it during my apprenticeship but we also rotate the toolpost. Very good tutorial!

[@taxicamel]

This is a good, thorough, tutorial covering ALL steps in setting up the machine. I would offer to immediate improvements to ending up with a better thread. The first being a faster spindle RPM. It appeared the RPM chosen was simply the slowest ...which is fine. But the problem is this cutting speed is in fact very slow ....on purpose. 1) A faster CS would automatically provide a better finish on the thread form. But this is up to the operator and their comfort zone with operating the half-nut disengagement only, for this one example. As determined and explained, for this thread pitch, any of the 8 engagements on the thread dial indicator will keep the pitch ...so there is no challenge factor in engaging ....and this engagement can be as far away from the thread start point aw the operator chooses. It is the "disengagement" that is the critical point ....but this is also dependent on how wide the relief is. Nothing wrong with practicing this technique. It just requires concentration. 2) The depth of cut chosen was very deep on the second pass. Considering the extremely low RPM, this resulted in extremely poor surface finish because the metal was literally tearing off the parent material ....and the surface finish looked awful. The depth extreme depth of cut can be taken, but it need NOT be that deep. As the final thread depth of cut is approached, the actual cutting depth should be reduced, simply because there is more material being removed at the deeper cuts. 3) And lastly, it is very common practice to run at least one "extra" pass after the last finish depth has been reached. Even though this bar is supported on a center, the bar material still deflects. There was a lot of tool pressure still on the last cut. A "cleanup" cut just makes sense to perform. It will literally always improve the thread surface finish as well .....which is what the female thread is going to be running on. There wasn't very much offered about "fitting" the thread and the testing of the nut did not reveal very much either nor was there any mention about the fit/class .....but considering this was only a tutorial using the cross-slide, ....enough said.

[@brianjohnson217]

That was a brilliant lesson on thread cutting. I'm a very keen hobbyist and self taught. Your lesson has taken away most of the scary stuff for me. Thank you very much

[@Handmadeextreme]

Glad it was helpful. Good luck with your own projects. 👍

[@jaspreetmatharu2741]

My father used to do a 14 feet long shaft with ease. I was about 11 or 12 years old maybe. He was a great turner. Passed away in 2012. Wish he was alive to teach me all this stuff.

[@projectworkbench2783]

When the thread chart says 1-8 you can engage the half nuts on any one of those numbers. You can also use a different number each time you engage the half nuts as well.

[@felgate11]

Calculate the Undercut/Gutter diameter first using the thread tables book which tells you the approximate thread depth The nose width of the insert varies depending on the thread size AND Pitch (1.5 mm pitch in this case (OR Number of Threads per Inch) The Coarser the Thread, the bigger the Nose width Ideally required. So then you'll have to screw deeper on a Coarse thread if you only have a small nose width Insert. & a deeper undercut.

[@itsthrone2520]

Machinerys handbook is key. Calculating minor and major diameter are also key, you're right.

[@Rubbernecker]

Excellent video!! I have seen dozens and dozens of videos of thread cutting. This one is by far the best and most well explained!

[@Handmadeextreme]

Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.

[@timhofstetter5654]

That lathe is wicked upscale compared to either of my lathes.

[@ianmorris8534]

Another great vid, thanks! now, I just need to work out a way to get a lathe up all those stairs into my flat :) Luckily, I've a great mate who lets me play around on his whenever I want, I just need to convince him he needs a mill, surface grinder and a shaper next, 👍

[@Handmadeextreme]

Hahaha better buy him a few bears. Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the support.

[@zhiweima2865]

When I started my apprenticeship, I was taught how to calculate the thread depth (using simple mathematics). The second thing I learned is that when you did the final cut and the nut fits perfectly, NEVER to use a file on the thread or "scotch brite". The thread should be smooth and shiny. In this video, you can see on the "chip" that there is chatter. However, a good tutorial for a beginner !

[@spazzwazzle]

Yeah, this video is pretty scary to watch. He's going way too slow to get a good finish and I don't understand why you wouldn't turn the compound to decrease chatter.

[@serhiyranush4420]

Could you share the info on how to calculate the thread depth?

[@nealblackburn8628]

@@spazzwazzle he said that there are better ways to do the job ...but this is a fairly basic method with less chance to make mistakes... i am sure he could do if he wanted to

[@manin10]

I got 11 cars and several motorbikes. I bought a lathe for this kind of projects. I remember the first time I cut a perfect thread. It was like I'd mastered witchcraft!

[@vigwelding926]

You just earned a subscriber. Just started to look for a metal lathe and gathering some information on various techniques and this one is very concise. Excellent job !!!!

[@reyalolor8041]

You forgot to use pitch guage for setting up the toolbit to make sure it aligned in the center

[@jambaikanyanjambaikanyan8122]

Teach me how

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Just subscribed, recommended by my brother Carl Wilson. That was as good an explanation as I've seen on KZbin. I like to make the gutter to the thread depth, that way when it scratches the gutter it's a good indication that you are pretty much at full depth. Tipped tooling is great because it gives you an indication when you get to the flats anyway. Great video. Dean in Oxfordshire.

[@Handmadeextreme]

Ahh, another Wilson. Welcome to the channel it's great to have you here. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the tip 👍

[@bigsmoke6189]

Good to see an instructional video with carbide threading inserts , only thing I would add is carbide inserts give a much better finish at higher speeds , something to work your way up to if you're disengaging the half nuts and you've got good hands.

[@Handmadeextreme]

Absolutely right. Got to have quick hands when doing it manually at the higher speeds.

[@old_guard2431]

Appreciate the comment. I was wondering how slowing the lathe way down was affecting the “speeds and feeds” equation. Presumably a high speed steel cutter would work better, perhaps with some tuning of the tool geometry? The trade-off is: if you don’t already have the tool in your inventory, you might spend more time grinding the tool than what it takes to make the part. In any event, the thread seems to be mechanically sound and passes the cost/benefit test. Comparing the final thread with one cut with a die would be an interesting exercise.

[@graemewhite5029]

Just found your channel as I've upgraded to an M300 from a Myford and liked your RPC video. If you're just doing a simple "plunge cut" threading job and you have the nut handy for sizing, advance the top slide a couple of thou every cut, this mimics the angled top slide method and let's the tool cut primarily on its leading edge, reducing tip loading and generally provides a smoother finish to the threads.

[@Handmadeextreme]

Nice idea. I'll have to give that a try some time. Thanks for the support.

[@KULITEHNIK]

Sangat luar biasa

[@lumpyzx2645]

So THATS the part I forgot to do, been a while since I've run a lathe and I was running some practice passes a bit ago on some plastic and a few times I cut right through the high side of my threads, wasn't sure why, now I know, I got certified as a machinist when I was 16 and I'm 22 now so I've forgot quite a bit, tryina get back into it and you just solved my issue, I knew it had to be something simple, I just forgot to wait for the number to come around before I engaged the feed

[@user-dd8zd8]

You have wery low turning speed for this operation.

[@Handmadeextreme]

I wanted to make sure everything was easy for people to see to make learning a bit a bit easier. I normally run it a bit faster if i'm just doing it myself. Thanks for watching. 👍

[@CaptainSwoop]

Excellent, concise and honest presentation. No verbal diarrhea ... just tell it as it is. Well done ... thanks.

[@Handmadeextreme]

Your welcome, thank you. Glad you enjoyed it. 👍

[@keithnoneya]

Very nice little beginner tutorial. I would have liked you to show how to tell if the threads are deep enough without the nut to ensure all production nuts would fit on. I guess if I wanted I could get it close and then run a regular Die over the threads and that should do. Thanks for sharing. best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

[@Handmadeextreme]

Thanks for the feedback. Great idea about showing the measuring. A set of thread wires is the proper way to do it. Your absolutely right about the die technique, I sometimes do that myself on larger threads. Thanks for the support.

[@RussellVanLeeuwen-qk8iv]

When I have done my initial scratch pass and I want to keep increasing the depth of cut till I reach the desired depth , do I use the cross slide to move in at 90 deg or do I use the compound slide to move in at 29 deg ?

[@GeneralChangFromDanang]

Either way works. A lot of people say the cross slide method is easier. I prefer to use the compound as you can set a zero on your cross slide that you return to on every pass, and just feed in your compound. I will say, you get a better finish with the compound method as all the tool force is in one direction.

[@douglasgeddes5228]

Would recommend using coolant when screw cutting you will get a much better finish, when I served my apprenticeship in the late 70s I ended up doing all the 2 and 4 start threads for the marine engineering company I worked for; that’s advanced screw cutting 😀

[@tmcmellon]

Flip the tool upside down, and start the tool from the chuck side and feed toward the tailstock and run the lathe in reverse. Learned this from the best toolmaker I have ever know who was from Germany. Many advantages, the most important is that the chips fall down out of the groove instead of bouncing around in the groove and ruining the finish. Running off the part at the end is more forgiving and gives you more time to disengage the half nut, therefore you can run the rpm higher for smaller diameters. And no, you won't cut a left hand thread this way.

[@panzhubnikaz7335]

Dude, you dont even know that you saved my sorry ass right now, thanks😁

[@jesserawson898]

A great method as long as the chuck doesn't unscrew and follow the chips into the chip tray. Make sure the chuck is locked onto the spindle thread. 🙂

[@charleshartlaub3725]

This is also a better method for parting off.

[@charleshartlaub3725]

But don't do this for any heavy turning op's as the force is not directed down into the machine.

[@tonybetts467]

Great video .. in my school days we did so much theory on how lathes worked and then never got to use one.. now I'm at an age I can maybe buy my own and learn.

[@ehamster]

Good video editing. I also have a metric Harrison. For the thread you were cutting you can engage on any number every time. You seemed to use 8 the first time, then wait for 8 every time you re-engaged. You could re-engage on any number. Try some “air cuts” to prove it.

[@Handmadeextreme]

Thanks very much, glad you enjoyed it. For that thread your absolutely correct. I think I might have just reused the same bit of footage each time. Takes a lot time to set a shot up so reusing the footage saves a bit of time in production. Thanks for your support 👍

[@donswords6671]

I bought a used Harrison AA. I took apart the cross slide dial assembly to clean and destroyed by mistake the 2-pin circular locking ring that holds things together. Tried to fashion a new one but cannot get the right size/pitch to go on smoothly. Any idea what those numbers could be?

[@pycaddraughting7875]

Excellent thank you. Well explained, thank you for taking the time. Excellent camerawork too! Given me the confidence to have a go. I've subscribed, I'll check your other stuff later...🙂

[@yeseniajulloa8953]

This is the method I learned in school, great job at making info more accessible.

[@Handmadeextreme]

Glad it was helpful! Thank you.

[@adolfemmanuelesparas3922]

Oh that's what the number for hehe.. I just forward reverse the saddle haha

[@ChrisBrown-dy8ts]

Adolf Emmanuel Esparas that’s what I do , never use the dial.

[@Handmadeextreme]

Yep that works too. This way is a bit faster but a little more risky. There is always a compromise. Thanks for watching. 👍

[@totallynotabot151]

With "advanced method" you're referring to where you turn the compound to 29.5 and advance that to reduce tool pressure?

[@Handmadeextreme]

Correct. Thanks for watching.

[@BananaMonstaaaa]

The advantage is that the tool is only cutting on the leading edge, reducing tool pressure. For small threads, cutting in x is completely fine

[@rjmitchell5128]

That was silly, not using cutting fluid on the centre drill...60,° can also be UNF and UNC.....I specialised in screwcutting

[@steveclark..]

I'm glad that you mentioned the depth of cut, is 0.25mm good for all diameters/sizes of thread? How many advancements of 0.25 mm do you make, until you reach max depth? What's the maximum sticking out on the insert tool I guess? You can't cut any deeper than that.

[@grimpo3310]

I think I have to shot my own clip how to cut thread at lathe. From my angle of view, this is about how to "rape" the thread at the stick. The surface of your cutted thread is terrible. Nor the file, nor the sanding paper or scotchbrite help it. What's the benefit of bluemarking the surface? What about to use cutting oil and little bit higher speed? I often cut 7/8" 14tpi at hobby bench lathe, but Sir, even that lathe-toy is able to make cleaner thread than what you show here.

[@matdeen9735]

my mini lathe cant disengage half nut...when this disengage half nut, cut off track..can you give me any idea?....i just try reverse and forward leadscrew...and any time, cutting crash...

[@Handmadeextreme]

If you can't remove the lead screw then you have to stop the lathe at the end of the cut. .Withdraw the tool, then reverse the machine then stop it again when you are back at the start. Put the machine back into forward gear then put on your next cut. It's slower but works. Best to practice on some scrap first.

[@NavyPanther54]

Not sure why I'm watching this now, I don't even own a lathe yet lol. But maybe some of this info will stick for when I need it, thanks!

[@willemscheepers3999]

Brilliant Video for learners.

[@gangleweed]

If Joe Pieczinski sees that method with the compound square on he'll have a fit.......he reckons the only way to cut threads is with the compound set over at 30 deg.....damm Yanks.

[@mohamadkamali3047]

Marcsism Communism Capitalism Liberalism and... Mankind have tried all these, and failed. It is time for the only school of thought made by God and brought to us by #ThePromisedSaviour

[@sianlove1454]

Great video, one of the best I've seen on cutting a thread. If I don't have a thread dial indicator, how do I go about this?

[@Handmadeextreme]

What you have to do Is never disengage the half nuts. If you do, since you don't have the indicator, you will loose your place and end up cutter a different thread each time. The way around this is to cut your thread, stop the machine, withdraw the tool, reverse the direction of the machine, drive it back to the start, change it back to running forwards, put on your next cut, start the machine, then do your next pass. Then repeat this process until your done. It take a fair bit longer as you have to wait for the machine to drive the saddle back to your start point, but works just as well. Remember once you have engaged the half nuts don't disengage them until your done. Best to practice on some scrap first. Dead easy once you get the hang of it. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching. 👍

[@alexblackburn627]

Handmade Extreme can you skip withdrawing the tool (or only 1 thou back off) while reversing the lathe without a dial by putting reverse pressure on the hand wheel and “walking” the carriage back against the lead screw removing the backlash? I feel this may be a bit easier but I don’t know my southbend has a thread dial

[@martinS-vn3wy]

I was taught to turn tool upside down, run lathe in reverse, and cut from chuck towards tailstock. This reduces the risk of a crash into the shoulder, and no need for a large undercut. I always cut threads this way, and have done for last forty-five years, unless using an Ainjest attachment.

[@453421abcdefg12345]

Martin 1299S: that is a good method if you have a good lathe, but it does tend to be lifting the toolpost off the bed, rather that pushing it down.

[@dreadknot2238]

Waste of time if you had threw tap shank onto the machine it would had been a 5 seconds video, instead you tried to be technical and explained things that nobody probably care about .

[@BedsitBob]

A less nerve wracking method would be to thread away from the chuck. That would give you a massive amount of runout room.

[@Errol.C-nz]

😁😆😂🤣... thats not manual thread cutting... what back gears are you setting 🙄

[@BIGDADDY012341]

Absolutely amazing video !!! Thanks for sharing and especially for throwing in the mistake because I make that mistake all the time !! Liked and subscribed

[@Handmadeextreme]

Glad you enjoyed it. Welcome to the channel.

[@CJ-ty8sv]

I'd have to say, I disagree with this method being "less risky" because you are relying on remembering your last depth of cut on the cross slide dial by using the cross slide to control your depth. By setting up and using the compound as you should, you do NOT have to remember the previous cut because its there the whole time since you are using the compound and never changing it except to increase depth of next cut (i.e., you are never backing it out to clear you threads on the return) and all you have to remember is 0 (zero) on the cross slide. Any distraction that might arise in the shop will not risk causing you to forget what your last depth was and risk possibly taking too deep of a cut and breaking the tool or messing up the part. Plus there is the simple fact that using the cross slide rather than the compound set at the 29 / 29.5° angle setting is causing the tool to cut full flank on both sides which causes chatter vs the angled compound is only causing the tool to cut on the leading side full flank and a very small amount on the trailing side so much less risk of chatter.

[@joeziegler9054]

Good video on thread cutting in the lathe. However sir please use some cutting oil or Anchorlube while performing this task. I read earlier in the comments you choose not too use it but if your teaching how to cut threads the correct way is too use cutting oil or some kinda lube. This keeps heat from building up and damaging your tool. Just a suggestion I think you done a great job on explaining the method.

[@Handmadeextreme]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video. I do use cutting oil normally, just not for the demo so people could see the tool a bit easier. Absolutely right about the oil and the heat it's a tool killer. Thanks for the support.

[@bobridge5271]

I wonder if the pitch you are making is a factor of the lead screw pitch there is any need to use the dial indicator ? So for example if the lead screw pitch is 3mm, and you want to make a thread of eg 3mm, or 1.5, or 1mm etc, regardless of where the half nut is re-engaged it will nevertheless hit the spot. Any comments ?

[@sempraviar9775]

In 12m i would made like 10 of does around 250 rpm to 320 rpm using the cut oil in everyone. Youre kinda slow Sir.

[@yesukumarcbz6099]

1st we need to learn pich board which is given on lathe machine. Always follow Machine manufacturers instrcutions. sorry if there any mistake in my words

[@jeffduncan7685]

Depending on the lathe, Standard or Metric and what type of thread your cutting if you can dis-engage the half-nut. Matric lathe you cannot dis-engage the half nut if your cutting a standard and if it is a standard cutting a metric thread you cannot dis-engage the half nut. You can dis-engage it but you must re-engage it while reversing the lathe catching the same number before it makes a full rotation, failure to do so will result in a damaged thread. I live in the USA so our lathes are not metric in most places, if I cut more metric threads I would invest in a metric lathe just so I could dis-engage the half nut as it speeds up the process and takes a lot of wear and tear off the lathe as I do not have to stop the motor, reverse it, then put it back in forward to cut the next pass. Whenever I cut threads on some barrels that are made over sea's I have to cut them going back and forth using the motor to move the carriage to the start of the thread.

[@georgeseymour2869]

Not a interlocking guard in sight, the way it should be. You should not encourage ppl to use Emery bad habit.

[@bimmerx440]

Nice work... very informative... 👍

[@Handmadeextreme]

Thanks very much. Glad you enjoyed it. 👍

[@EmptyPocketProductions]

What do you consider basic and advanced... if this is middle ground ? Nice video. Subbed

[@Handmadeextreme]

I'd say that driving the cartridge back and forth using the lead screw is a slightly more basic method. Little bit safer but takes a bit longer. Then using the rotated compound method is slightly more advanced. Not by much, but enough to make the distinction. Glad you enjoyed it and welcome to the channel. 👍

[@BEYTEK]

i have a m300 lathe and ive learnt soooo muchhhh from this video

[@ronblack7870]

you actually should set the compound at 29 1/2 degrees and feed in with the compound. what that does is the threading tool then cuts primarily on one side and only just kisses the other side of the V . this stops the chatter that you get and makes a much smoother thread groove. by feeding in straight both sides of the tool cut steel and as it gets deeper the steel rips rather than cuts. there is a cheat method for how you did it. if you set the compound parallel to the bar you are threading and on every cut when you feed in deeper you also feed slightly towards the chuck on the compound. that accomplishes a similar thing to the 29 1/2 degree method.

[@timothybird5565]

Nice video for demonstrating cutting metric threads, may also add depending on what brand of lathe swapping gears to do metric or atandard threads. Ive been cutting threads on old school lathes for 35 years myself,over all great video

[@MultiChaga]

No oil????

[@Handmadeextreme]

Yeah I didn't use any so that it was a bit easier for people to see exactly what was going on... probably should have mentioned that in the video.. oops. ☺ Thanks for watching. 👍

[@derekcollins1972]

Great explanation there that gets straight to the point.Well done.

[@Handmadeextreme]

Thank you.

[@tinnedanger]

Yeah we have all got the same lathe with all those settings. Maybe if we don't have a lathe with a brake and a counter dial what would you do ? How about turning from the back of the piece and running away from the chuck. No need for a counter .

[@toby4753]

your spinning way to slow that's why your thread looks like shit ;D using hss tools would be better at this speed.. next to that on some machines you dont have that number disky thing you use to start the thread so i would never advice to engage the thread nut cos if you dont get it out on time your done.. better just stop spinning..

[@ston2610]

Total amateur, the groove or gutter as you call it is an undercut. Don’t give up your day job! You’ll never earn a living at it!!

[@nellyishtari]

ha! good old time when I was at school, we had manual lathes... well, everything was manual, even cylindric gringers, no cnc Though I never did a thread on a lathe. We had some scary threading machine, a Cri-Dan... a simple mistake in calculation and you'd send everything through the workshop

[@Handmadeextreme]

Technology has certainly come a long way in the last few years. It's incredible what some the the machine can do now. Thanks for watching.

[@geoadventure996]

You can just put it in reverse so you don't have to guess your number (8)

[@joew4202]

What kind of nut is that? I’m not familiar and it looks backwards. Someone told to tighten nylok nuts like that and I knew he was wrong I wonder if he thought it was a nut like the one you’re using

[@RixtronixLAB]

Nice video shot, keep it up, thanks for sharing it :)

[@billhamilton2366]

What is wrong with you. Why can’t you do it right every time? I see you haven’t use 3 wires to measure tour threads or make sure the threads are right. This is just guessing.

[@swamppifi6186]

when you make an axle using S275 , do you heat treat the finished axle, an what would be your other choices for material

[@Handmadeextreme]

For this axle no there was not heat treatment. It's for a low use flat track race bike so not really needed. My go to material for shafts and axles that see a bit more load in service is usually EN16T which is heat treated. That said it all depends on the application. A simple shear for and bending moment diagram and a few calcs gets you in the ball park then select material based on that along with expected cyclic loads for fatigue endurance limit. Thanks for the support, I hope that helps.

[@thedreadedmushroom3012]

Amazing tutorial, so informative, thank you!

[@maxsmith4400]

Hi.Would it also be possible to just pick a number on the dial,and stick with it?

[@znarnakifa5314]

What if we need 10,000 bolts? I don't think this is good machine for that.

[@martinfurlong1071]

Where's your 29.5 compound set?...

[@Josh-nt3dj]

I mean i dont now the benefits of doing this on the turning machine but why not use especially Made cutting Tools for this

[@ronnieg6358]

I've never used a lathe but intend getting one which is why I watch things like this. Refitting the thread cutter accurately could cause problems. Surely best to leave it in place until you've finished (unless of course the groove is not deep enough). Couldn't you have continued and cut a shallow thread in the base of the groove and machined it out later for appearance? Really good instructive video, thanks.

[@Handmadeextreme]

With a quick change tool post the tool position repeatably is very good so that not a huge concern to be honest. Regarding cutting into the groove. That very much depends. If it is just a single pass then you could get away with it but if you had to keep making more cuts you need to stop the tool sooner each time or you can overload the tool and break it if it suddenly goes from the 3rd or 4th etc small cut into a piece of uncut material. The tool load suddenly shoots up and breaks the tip off. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching.

[@ronnieg6358]

@@Handmadeextreme Thanks. Now to find a decent lathe!

[@brianskellenger9344]

Thanks, studying for a test but don't machine anymore.

[@ricardoauralebronperez5110]

Ok please tell me what’s the degrees on the insert to cut a 1.250 -12 inches tread

[@stevefrench2276]

Great video, thank you, what is also awesome is the tips from the "knowledge network" in the comments section, however, the way you explained this is great for beginners like me, get comfortable with the basics and throw in the all the tips below, JUST AWESOME... cheers.....

[@ardalanpirasteh1378]

You are really unique, thank you for your efforts, it was great.🙏🙏🌹🌹

[@brianturnbull2303]

Your running much to slow these tools are made to run 5-6 times the speed your running and your get a lot better finish

[@timhofstetter5654]

Shouldn't the short tenon at the end be almost exactly the same diameter as your thread's root diameter, so your nut fits it closely?

[@baskarj9419]

hi bro, how to calculate the lathe machine's thread gear chart, any formula there? eg., Our lathe machine has a lead screw-4T.P.I (Threads Per Inch). I need 10mm pitch gears, What is the gears for A=? B=? C=? D=?.

[@DigitalMachinist25]

CBT EXAM मैं Thread पर पुछे जाने वाले Question इस व्हिडिओ मैं हिंदी मैं है। एक बार जरुर देखें kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZquagpyFiNZ5epo

[@serhiyranush4420]

How do you determine how deep to cut? For example, for your 1.5 pitch, how deep should the thread be?

[@johnoler357]

Thread cutting oil would give a better thread finish. I thought the threads looked a little rough.

[@madeddiesman-stylemonsterm6662]

Great instruction with perfect clarity. Thank you for sharing your insights via this video!

[@TigerCarpenter]

thanks for sharing this method. I will check it out on my kather when it arrives.

[@billygoat1708]

Wrong. You need to put the compound on a 60 degree angle and increase the depth of cut with the compound not the cross slide. The thread has a 60 degree profile. Therefore the cutting tool will cut on the lead side of the cutting tool making a cleaner thread. You also didn't show how to use a 60 degree thread center gage to make sure the cutting tool is perpendicular to the work. Cutting oil works wonders in making a nice clean thread too.

[@frankbruno8496]

Engaging and disengaging the half nut is a waste of time . As long as the lead screw is on , the forward motion will follow the same root .

[@joakoch]

Great explanation, thank you very much!

[@Handmadeextreme]

Glad it was helpful!

[@teterouge1472]

If you have had to swap out tools, recut your "chicken run", you done it wrong. Mind, single point screwcutting is always an individual job from lathe to lathe.... 1/8th of an inch to 5inch requires different techniques, as I'm sure you know Ps:chicken run with as big a radius cut as you can

[@nicholasdimarcelloiii3469]

I have the same lathe. Can I use my carriage stop to cut the exact length of thread I need?

[@forwhatitsworth364]

Tight man. Thanks for this the axle tured out crazy sexy.

[@odl21]

some cutting fluid and a higher speed would improve the finish on it.

[@SpartanMJO12]

Phwoooooaaaar! That's some good lathe operation!

[@Handmadeextreme]

Haha, thanks glad you enjoyed it.

[@arturoalvizo1220]

Hope everyone is learning as much as I have from this. In a gunsmithing course right now. Helped out a lot. Take it easy my "Niggels" 😂😂