Hands-off 3D printing!

3DQue claim to have solved part auto-ejection - but is it really that simple?
Thanks to PrusaResearch for sponsoring this video! Check out Printables at prusa.io/Thomas... and learn more about the MK3S+ at prusa.io/Thoma...
Read the article to this video here: toms3d.org/202...
3DQue Quinly for MK3 shop.3dque.com...
Filament used:
Prusament PLA go.toms3d.org/P...
DAS FILAMENT PLA www.dasfilamen...
Extrudr XPETG matte black www.extrudr.co...
Extrudr PLA-NX2 matte black www.extrudr.co...
Models shown:
Hanging Skull Planter by Uncle Jessy
www.printables...
3D Benchy by Creative Tools www.printables...
Printed ram guard www.printables...
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[@MakersMuse]

Uhh so to clarify, without your custom made ram guard, it was using the cooling fan to push prints off??? I've been using metho or IPA to clean the same garolite sheet for almost a year now and it's good as new using default settings, im not sure that custom coating is doing them any favours. Super appreciate the review! I still prefer to change by hand but a print farm application would be a different story.

[@MadeWithLayers]

Yup, they're not including any sort of ram or shield with the kit. When the bed releases like it's supposed to, the parts slide off very easily, so it does work under ideal conditions.

[@MakersMuse]

@@MadeWithLayers still not optimal! Doesn't deal with purge lines or skirts either, though you could disable them. Still reckon your bed swapping design is the safest approach but way more challenging to implement 😂

[@JustTechGuyThings]

@@MakersMuse Yeah, I've done G10 on my CR-6 SE.

[@Thorhian]

@@MakersMuse Pallet Changing is awesome. Can't wait to see more of it come into the 3D printing world from the CNC machining world.

[@MadeWithLayers]

Purge lines are dealt with by... not using them. The instructions call for always printing a brim (or a zero-distance skirt) instead, which works for priming, but then you've always got a brim to peel off.

[@AttilaSVK]

At my previous workplace, we used three MK3S printers to print enclosures for our custom made electronics for our clients. I would create two G codes for the printers: one which would run for 8 hours (or a bit less), and the other which ran for 16 hours (or a bit less again). This way the printer was running 24/7 during weekdays, and a colleague would start the 16 hour G code on weekends as well, since he was every day at the office, even on weekends, at least for a few hours. To equip all three printers with a Qinly would cost us 1650 dollars, or 1620 euros. I could have two more MK3S+ printers for that, or four clones, and still have enough money left over to buy a Raspberry Pi 3B+ to run a second instance of Repetier Server Pro (which we've bought) and some original Prusa sheets (if we'd go for the clones). It would be better, since there's no need to tweak profiles and parallel printing is faster and more flexible.

[@MonguzTea]

Running 8 ender3s beats a prusa mk3 with this contraption anytime for the same cost.

[@electronicsandewastescrapp7384]

I tried this but the gcode fiiles got to be so large my text editor started to complain. Why the heck marlin can't add a qnty=X option I'll never know.

[@fastundercoverkitgoogle7381]

@@electronicsandewastescrapp7384 Get a better text editor :P

[@theglowcloud2215]

@@fastundercoverkitgoogle7381 this is not the way

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Tom, I used one of these to create parts for a local 3D printer part manufacture because they were in a pinch. It was a part they used in packaging. I used mine on an Ender 3. After I got it dialed in, it was set it and forget it. I lost about 3% of the parts due to first layer inconsistency, but I ran it for weeks, turning out over 400 pieces and I didn't have to do anything at all. I would do it again for sure.

[@giacomopeli]

Hey Chris, check also 3D Print Flow

[@Jobobn1998]

Real talk, Tom: I love that your reviews are so honest and unflinching. I hate how objective information gets twisted for profit, so massive kudos for sticking to your integrity on these!

[@licensetodrive9930]

You're totally right about the price / convenience aspect of deciding whether something is worth the money, trouble free solutions can be worth their weight in gold. Great sponsor, Mk3 owner for 4+ years which is still going strong, so very glad it's my first printer.

[@orange-micro-fiber9740]

I like the robot voice edits. I really don't like it when there are *CORRECTIONS on screen. I'm often listening while looking at another window.

[@wreckervilla]

As a proof of concept it seems really promising. Get a G10 plate, hook up a gcode operated fan for rapid plate cooling and some kind of air cylinder with a bumper to push parts off the plate at a less aggressive angle and it just might work.

[@MichaelJHathaway]

Great video, Thanks Tom. Wow, that is crazy expensive. Our Autopilot program is only $50 or free with MatterControl Pro. And the bed surface that auto releases is just Garolite with a scratch improvement coating. I did a ton of testing on this surface, it is not proprietary. You don't need to tilt your printer, just add a flexible plastic sheet to the front and that's it.

[@darktherapy]

The continuous print plug-in for octoprint is great. You can even manage multiple networked printers running non-stop from a single instance of octoprint.

[@3DMusketeers]

I just got a kit in too, great to see your thoughts Tom. I can definitely see that ROI like you said, but yes, it is not cheap. Had the 3D Que team on a podcast and I definitely see the value in the product but yes, very specific use case. Love the ram, will have to do something like that for ours!

[@MadeWithLayers]

HMU if you want the file for the ram!

[@3DMusketeers]

@@MadeWithLayers Oh sweet, definitely will!

[@DerpyMail]

@@MadeWithLayers Should upload it to Printables!

[@MadeWithLayers]

It's now available on Printables! www.printables.com/model/240057-mk3-bed-clearing-ram-guard

[@G4m813R]

I did the same with octoprint and the "Continuous Print" plugin. The Creality glass build plate worked great with PLA, the textured Prusa build plate with PLA and PETG. No need to tilt the printer or anything. I just built a slide for the parts kicked off the bed.

[@darrenscruggs8832]

Great video, I really appreciate a non-biased viewpoint when it comes to videos like these.

[@mckaymatts]

For the cost of that, you may as well just buy Prusa Mini. Puts the manual swapping numbers back along side the Quimby

[@electronicsandewastescrapp7384]

I mean.. with PLA, PLA plus, or PLA-F my plain old glass beds stick like glue at 60-70 and slide off zero effort at room temp. My old school original ender 3 bed can actually print without heat as if its blue tape. By dialing in the bed level I can get some of my products to stick just enough with zero heat that it can be bumped off easily by the fan shroud into a bin (using the old sheet o' paper taped to the bed to keep things from getting jammed under there.) With no bed heat up and down saves a huge amount of time. as long as there are no major shifts in ambient room temp I can keep running for a full spool no problem. Cost $0. OH! and these systems are running non-stop thanks to YOUR awesome tutorial on how to run octoprint on an old android phone ;) so much appreciated.

[@carpenecopinum1665]

So in the end, you get about 20% increased productivity (using the Skull and plate of Benchies as the more realistic scenarios for a print farm), for a roughly 50% increase in price. A second printer gets you 100% more productivity for 100% more money. Additionally, the productivity increase of the Que system is basically negative when you are in a tight deadline (and it's okay for you to babysit the printer 24/7 until the deadline), because you have to wait for stuff to cool down. So things don't really line up here... Thanks for the review though!

[@rewolff2]

I did the "clearing the bed with the machine" a couple of times while being remote from the printer. Printer was just horizontal like normal. And a normal bed. I haven't done it enough to automate it yet. For sticking to the bed: small prints stay put after printing, while bigger prints tend to come loose after cooling. Current print: 18 hours, 324 small items. I need to go there to take them off.

[@henryloohenryloo8171]

I also do same model Rack L connector to my customer, now I do plastic mold to produce it. Total high I put is 80mm,

[@CleggyCool]

That price point is nuts, it’s bordering on the point where you might as well buy another printer. Great video though!

[@rynnjacobs8601]

They should sell the print bed separately. A print bed that reliably holds all filaments and releases them after cooling for about 30 € or so would certainly be a success.

[@adriansue8955]

you can just DIY that yourself. buy a FR4/G10 sheet, that's what they're using. Maker's Muse has a video where he does this.

[@nickdarrow4873]

They refuse to sell the bed alone, which is really what you’re going for. The controller is a gimmick to justify charging more- the “sweeping at bed temp x” can be accomplished with end gcode very easily. I bought a CR6 SE kit, and it was obvious they did zero practical testing with it. They wanted me to stick the $300 sticker on top of the bed screws- sealing them in forever. It pissed me off so bad I haven’t tried using it. It’s a gimmick cash grab. If it worked as well as they claim, everyone would have it. It’s been around for years.

[@carpenecopinum1665]

In that case, their offer would totally fall apart though, as then they are basically selling you a couple of aluminum extrusions (and printed parts that you might just as well just do yourself) for like 420€.

[@drewpd7]

@@adriansue8955 the vaapr is not just a g10 sheet. Not saying g10 won’t work for some filaments but they have a proprietary blend of things that is different to handle a wider array of materials.

[@adriansue8955]

@@carpenecopinum1665 Implying its not a total ripoff and just propping up your printer on some books doesn't achieve the same?

[@GradyCochran21]

Have You ever Looked into the Ender CR-30 ? Its a 3d Printer with a small conveyor belt as a bed. You Can print innfinte z axis

[@Sleighbells96]

Video idea for you, running klipper on non raspberry pi single board computers and/or old android phones. A lot of people are waiting on raspberry pi’s for klipper when rock/orange/banana/etc. pi’s may be good enough. I know you also did a video on running octoprint on android phones and it seems like it’s possible to do the same for klipper, though it’s a longer and more tedious process. Just some ideas! I think with the raspberry pi shortage and peak of klipper interest going on now there would be a lot of interest for low cost raspberry pi alternatives

[@EngineerPrepper]

Prusa print bed has been the best option for me. Nothing else compared.

[@Martial-Mat]

Any system that uses the delicate print head as a clearing ram is an instant no no.

[@thestylishdragon3D]

I have the 3D Que Autofarm set up with 2 CR6SE printers and I love it! There have been several upgrades to the software since this review, which is pretty typical with reviews and new systems to the market. I do print different parts quite easily by uploading them into the queue. The main purpose of this system is to make it more efficient for Print farms. Which you do say in your review that it makes sense for people wanting to print on repeat. It has saved me a TON of time and money to use the system. They also do have a way to connect remotely so you can control things from the Autofarm dashboard. Still a great review, but I just wanted to point out that the developers have some a bunch of upgrades over the last 10 months. They are also very responsive if there are any questions or requests to adjust things, 😊😊

[@Tynted]

Man you make good reviews! I love learning about whatever you're testing on this channel even though I will never buy 99% of it lol

[@TheNamelessOne12357]

Buy or build large 3D-Printer and print instances all at once or one by one in single print. Same scenario, but much more stable result with any fillament.

[@oasntet]

If you're printing thousands of the same part, it's probably time to investigate other production tools. Injection molding at the smaller scale has gotten a whole lot easier and cheaper in the last decade, between being able to print molds with high-temp UV resin, or casting your own molds in high-temp silicone. Sure, some things simply can't be made in a mold, but most things can and even more can with some tweaks. And then there's small-scale CNC, either to produce parts directly or to make aluminimum molds for injection molding. You can even recycle quite a few things from the waste stream to do that injection molding for free or nearly free.

[@MastaSquidge]

Injection molding for a few hundred or even a few thousand isn't as cheap as you think. This greatly depends on the complexity of the model and resulting mold. Source: I've been professionally molding for years.

[@oasntet]

@@MastaSquidge True for commercial injection molding. But home hobbyist-level injection molding via non-machined molds has taken off in the last couple of years.

[@MastaSquidge]

@@oasntet which falls back under the complexity of the part. The hobbyist can of course make multiple parting line molds and manually assembled cores and undercuts but at the end of the day it is still really only cost/labor effective with simple parts. And that's perfectly fine if that's what you're doing. Labor isn't free and 3d printing is mostly unattended time. If you go get a creality cr30 or sainsmart infi you don't need any fancy kit to do continuous 3d printing. It'll batch and remove prints from the bed right out of the box.

[@martinmarkmarkovics7754]

I did modified my Prusa mini's hotend fan duct, so now it has a lifter part (Thanks open-source!). The idea is roughly the same. The flex bed is taped to the heating panel just to be sure, and a sheet of paper between them in the front so the part won't fall into the mechanics. Only problem is, when i lift far from the supported side, then the whole x gantry twists and stays like that that makes the lifter's bottom lower, and catching into the print itself. However I tried it, and works as intented, if i set up correctly the temps and the cooling also. One note, that I used often. Turn down the bed temp after the first layer. It's already stuck, just need to maintain not to fall mid print, then when it's done you maybe need to wait third, or quarter times as originaly.

[@shibbleswentworth]

Looks like a Pelletier cooler or blast of CO2 liquid would get the parts off more reliably as you need a difference in thermal expansion between plate and part to get it off. Also a thermal shock of active cooling would allow you to locally cool the part or bed quickly, and resume printing much faster while the thermal mass of the bed recovers operating temp.

[@Slurmpslurmp8356]

I could be completely wrong because I’ve only had a printer for a couple of months, but I think the ender3_v2 has a similar print plate that grabs during the print and releases after the print is done. At least that’s kinda what I’ve noticed.

[@IamHamdan]

man you went all out in testing for this video, i learned a lot watching this thank you!!! (even how to replace the 5v fan loololol)

[@Daniel.Paintner]

The Video was very interesting. I ordered an set for one of my prusa minis without a hub. Today I had the time to install all and i haven't any issues with the gcode transfer. Ok you can't change the quantity of the running que but you can extend the que with new quantity of the same gcode.

[@thomask819]

For reducing the time between time because of the slow cool down of the plate, a common big fan that turns on after the print has finished would dramatically decrease this time.

[@JB-nz6ew]

Creality CR-30 is already a fiddley high-volume printer plus dat Z axis?

[@Frostfly]

First generation set up. obvious place for improvement. Seems like a good thing. The biggest advantage to a system like this is someone who produces a product that uses a lot of smaller identical parts. It essentially can stop you from having to run to a printer and break your work flow. also. I only use one print material for the reasons you talk about. I don't care about other colors (i have this thing called "paint") and I'm perfectly happy with the mechanical properties of my print material.

[@SirLANsalot]

Ya the bed type is a G10 or PEI bed, both do the same thing having the print self release after the bed is cold. PEI you usually want about a 10C hotter then suggested temp for any material FOR the first layer, you can then let it back off to 50c to finish the print.

[@electrobob]

Where i see the problem is that, while parts will easily come off if lifted from a corner, there may be a high resistance to pushing them from the side and parallel with the bed like it is attempting to do. I tested this on my anycubic i3 mega which has a similar bed by default: try to push the part parallel to the bed and it is hard to remove it. Grab it from a corner and the leverage increases and the part easily moves.

[@JonS]

What do you do about removing skirts from the build plate? Is the idea that you don't use a skirt (maybe use a brim as it will release with the part)?

[@CristalianaIvor]

yes you don't use one

[@3dbyjb54]

Skirts are set at 3 loops and a .24mm distance, they slide off with the parts, I do mine 3 layers high to ensure removal with the part

[@mr_voron]

The Linus style sponsor segues was a very nice touch 👌🏻

[@Guy_Sandler]

I'm getting my prusa mk3s+ this week, lol

[@bailingmarne]

😂 I can't with the "I'll do the math in post" text to speech voice overs 😂

[@DKTAz00]

Interresting topic. Top quality as always

[@DumahBrazorf]

Ben Heck built an arm actuated with a motor and i remember a script in octoprint but i don't think he still uses it.

[@DumahBrazorf]

I think they should add the voice: "Scam" in the Abuse list.

[@ItzRyanF00]

Anything for a Ankermake m5?

[@KlaudiusL]

I think is a bad desing: pushing object system put so much stress on the gantry, after some time it'll lose precision. Would be better replace the bed with a belt and when the printing ends, just advance to the front, a sharp edge could release the pieces. And you use all space abailable without "dead spaces" to print.

[@Queldonus]

Sounds like a better system would be to have a printer with a lift kit that prints close to level and can then tilt up at the end of the cycle AND a separate arm to clear the print off the print head. Not many people are mass producing parts to the level that that would require.

[@deltacx1059]

2:42 in what world? Profit rate and time until ROI play a huge role. For small companies they can't wait a long time for returns and depending on what they regularly print this price may not even be worth it(tiny parts with high margins would be most worth it), for a larger company with dozens of printers i can see the value but at that point it may be more valuable to just invest in belt printers.

[@Gold63Beast]

“The times it does work……it works 100% of the time” 🤣

[@iron_bro]

It would be so rad if someone made a robot arm to remove prints automatically! would be even cooler to see a solution like this working on some kind of belt and pulley system with multiple printers

[@rmatveev]

How about skirts?

[@SuperheroArmorychannel]

Meh… a conveyer belt system would be much better. That would allow for printing of long parts and not have to cool down in between prints. I’m hoping that Prusa will offer this option in the future since conveyer 3d printing is the future of 3d printing desktop manufacturing.

[@Slimion]

is this bed that special? All my prints pop off super cleanly around 30 degrees with 0 bed adhesion problems on the default side winder x1 bed. It only take like 5 minutes to cool from 50 degrees as well.

[@ZaxMan3D]

Ehm, stupid question, why do you need all this special stuff if you wait for the full cooldown anyway? granted i have only been printing FDM for 6 months but ALL and i do mean ALL my prints did not stick to my textured PEI plate that came with my ender 3 S1 pro if i let it cool down to ambient. So all that is needed is the coding and the tipping of the printer?

[@fluffycritter]

This seems clever but of limited use to me. For mass replication I'd think that one of the conveyor belt printers would be a better approach.

[@nexanarmories2866]

In my eyes, I don't see how this idea can compete with something like the Creality CR-30, which does almost the same thing, using a conveyor belt, is more reliable in removal, and can even print parts much longer than the length of the bed, the only downside i see is the potential of having to relearn positioning for prints due to the 45 degree angle of the head. Otherwise, just put a bucket down, and the prints will peel themselves loose as the belt moves along.

[@xTheUnderscorex]

Plus it has zero downtime spent on cooldown/warmup. If it stays calibrated, the only time it isn't printing is the time you're spending installing a new filament (until you need to perform maintenance).

[@sashablfc]

The bed should have a counterwight

[@ASCENDANTGAMERSAGE]

Why not just add gcode to clear the prints with the x-axis rods...?

[@wktodd]

Great honest review as usual 8-)

[@wktodd]

@Tom Sanladerer Is someone using your photo as a scam Tom ?

[@Fantomasxp]

You can actually do this with octoprint and a camera,move the tool head when the print is over,you just need internet

[@TheToniz4]

"most of the time, it works 100% of the time" This is the description of my life.

[@tomandrews5392]

Great review... Awesome sponsorship..

[@TechieSewing]

Why is the filament coming from beyond of the frame edge, like in 12:05?

[@ctg222]

Hey nice setup! I'm thinking to do the same. What is that high kilogram spool holder??? Link for STL or purchase? Looks great. Thanks

[@MadeWithLayers]

It's the stock spool holder, which doesn't actually print with the big spool 😅 IIRC, I was using an external spool holder for the actual prints

[@johnchai1287]

How do you think this stacks up with a belt printer?

[@CristalianaIvor]

so uhm, I print on normal window glass for years now since I ruined the coated cardboard thing that came with my ender3. it can be a bit of a hustle, but if you clean your bed well (I use ethanol, or Wodka) and Level well then it sticks nicely as long as the bed is hot and pops off easyly. the problem is that as soon as it gets lift off the bed a tiny amount it can pop off while printing too 😬 But hey, what do we not do for that nice and glossy first layer?

[@maxwel1]

Nice time :)

[@mrnlce7939]

Didn't Devon from Make Anything do something like this years ago.

[@mckidney1]

There is one thing missing with the calculation, the jump in time cost due to hiring help. I still think that having a farm makes more sense - just wanted to point out that not all minutes have the same value when talking about users with different level of experience.

[@MastaSquidge]

They literally just make a conveyor belt printer that can just.... do this.

[@SpaceGringos3D]

This is excellent for small print farms!

[@SpaceGringos3D]

Also, amazing job on this video. So informative and well placed together!

[@Festivejelly]

It really isnt

[@mihalis1010]

The issue with this product isn't with the product, it's the fact that FDA 3D printing just isn't suited for production runs. That was never the idea, the idea was for prototyping. The economies of scale just don't work so well with 3D printing when you acount for electricity and material costs compared to the amount of time it takes to print an object. This product seems like a solution to a problem that shouldn't have been a problem.

[@Jynxx_13]

$550 for a Rpi, garolite sticker, printed parts, and some extrusion? Seriously?

[@user-yk1cw8im4h]

i wouldn’t trust a system like this running 24/7 tbh

[@davidblink-f4n]

for that price, every 2 machines upgraded is a whole assembled prusa, or 3 upgrades being 2 kits. Depending on the parts you offer too, running shorter batch jobs during the work day and having 12-16hr prints that run overnight would mean you could vastly beat this setup with the only time your prints aren't running being late saturday-monday morning, with no headache. I think a better metric for a print farm would be time spent printing. So long as you can have long running overnight prints, this would be a downgrade because of the cool down step. (after commenting i am realizing this isn't your newest video and is 2 years old. WHOOPS)

[@lylek8933]

Too bad you cannot just vibrate the plate to loosen a part to push off. If doable, could place a piezoelectric transducer on the plate that could vibrate at the optimal frequency depending on the material printed and while vibrating, have that bar push off the model. Probably wouldn't work but still why not experiment. Not sure what frequency of vibration on the plate would be optimal. Just brainstorming. :)

[@plasmabazooka4403]

Probably any i3 style printer is not designed to run 24/7 either and needs some rest anyway.

[@rodryk5605]

Kinda of a niche product. I suppose it doesn't deal really well with skirts and brims, also.

[@madp3d]

These things look OK but that huge spool can't be good for the gantry. Bet you it's not plumb for long.

[@RTSFan1337]

Nice Prusa Sponsorship, but that 3DQue stuff was pretty disappointing.

[@Plan-C]

I would be more concerned about leaving it unattended for a week. Are there any safeguards like temerature failsafe plus smartplug on the included Pi?

[@boosted_2j]

Why is ur ducking spool so big haha. # goals.

[@portableproductions5874]

um... that roll of filliment is like bigger than the printer

[@ThantiK]

$500 and they can't even supply their own spring steel base? ROI be damned. That's a rip.

[@KryaDiere]

At that price I would just buy a few more ender 3 to print simultaneously lol

[@Unorthatrox]

What is pinda... just call it a capacitive sensor like it is. No one get apple style naming rights to generic components.

[@edenrabian1337]

sad that the mk3s is 2000$ here :(

[@thetechhobbyist3d9]

I need an explanation of why you use the text to speech like this😂

[@The_ginger_boy]

Have you ever heard of the creailty cr 30

[@spreaddeezhazelnutz7511]

*Inserts RoboCop meme "I'd buy that for a dollar!"

[@gotmilkbutt]

I hate when my printer makes those stall noises I always hit the e stop and feel shame.

[@Sciman101]

For the price, I'm surprised it doesn't at least come with a tool head shield like what you had to design

[@Kycirion]

Or at the VERY LEAST an STL file.

[@MadeWithLayers]

1337

[@marc_frank]

ok

[@MechVince]

Kek!

[@skydance1151]

how to sell parts worth 50 $ for 500 $ *stonks*

[@ericanderson7570]

Value of any product is more than cost of materials.

[@Sleighbells96]

Cool to see the prusa sponsorship! Hopefully more people move on to printables

[@goury]

Not until they fix the search

[@TheJustinist]

@@goury wdym? Search works fine for me. Can even search for exact phrases or negate search terms now.

[@goury]

@@TheJustinist you can't search for anything other than phrases. Negative search is good, but without an ability to filter out categories, licenses and meta and not being able to even sort the results, it's just another useless feature.

[@ThantiK]

@@goury that's called "filtering". Not search. So you're saying search works fine, but you want more filters...

[@goury]

@@ThantiK that's called "verbalism", not replying. I am saying that the search functon is useless.

[@DarkArtGuitars]

I reviewed the Quinly system last year and had many of the same issues as you. While I was ready to accept the finicky settings, I'm sad to see that the software still is as unfinished as when I tried it (admittedly it was a beta back then, but doesn't look much different from what you showed). The release times also change dramatically depending on your ambient tem. I tried it during winter with ambient around 18C and it only needed around 15min. But in summer it took often an hour or more to finally cool down. They argue that most printfarms would be climate controlled anyways but who wants to pay to cool to 18C when 23C would be fine otherwise too?

[@jamesthorogood1479]

FYI you can also do this with the Prusa Textured build plate. I run a 3D printing business, and we have about 8 machines using them. They work great. We find that 70 degrees results in zero issues with PLA sticking, and prints pop right off around the 25 degree C mark.

[@cinobro6393]

Have you tried active cooling the build plates to reduce cooldown time?

[@jamesthorogood1479]

@@cinobro6393 I haven’t actually, sounds like it would be useful.

[@wesley00042]

@@cinobro6393 I was thinking the same. A GPIO-controlled relay and a fan might cut that wait time in half.

[@jonhaze7537]

PLA + textured = fail

[@jakehopt]

@@jonhaze7537 Why are you having trouble with it? I've had ZERO issues.

[@b4Bub0i]

I highly appreciate the length of the video :)

[@thewheelieguy]

It is elite !! 1!!

[@addamussi]

For the price, just add a little more $$ and buy a second printer

[@ThantiK]

For that price you could buy 2 second printers. >_>

[@natalieisagirlnow]

the price is outrageous for what you get

[@marcosramirez385]

I remember seeing a reddit post where someone built something similar but with an arm that came down to remove the parts from the bed. Seem better than have you x carrige crash into your prints everytime.

[@hexidev]

Yeah Saw that too looked way better

[@ConnorWeller]

Doesn't hurt the printer much to be honest. The printer is pretty rigid and the motors are no where near powerful enough to do any real damage. If it's too much the motors just stall and skip steps.

[@Zettymaster]

don't forget to DISABLE pruge lines, brims, skirts and basically everything that needs supports or a rafts (as rare as rafts are, they are sometimes useful)!