Harbor Freight FREE multimeter; Tools for SHTF!

A very brief and basic introduction to the multimeter, the device for measuring and testing electrical and energized components. This is meant to be informative only, and in no way is any kind of qualified instruction... so if you shock or electrocute yourself after watching this and trying something you thought you saw here... it's not my fault! If you would like some more in-depth info about anything you see here, please ask and I will do my best to help you out. There are also hundreds of other very informative and educational vids on this subject on YT, so go down the rabbit hole and have fun!

[@davidmartinez8441]

thanks for the video, i had this multi-meter for 2 years now, never figured out how to use it, and now i do!

[@cometcal2]

- I consider yours the BEST video on explaining the HF freebie multimeter. - I understand the settings better than the ones for my IPhone - I understand the pros and cons of this multimeter as opposed to ones you have to pay for - Intelligent people know how to explain things using simple language. THANKS!

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Thank you and blessings upon you and yours!

[@WV591]

it is very strange that this cheap and most times free meter is the only meter that has battery load tester on it. even my 500 dollar fluke and half a dozen other expensive meters I own don't have that. go figure. and it is handy as heck to have instead of connecting resistor across leads.

[@DavidLebold]

Why not measure the batteries in DC volts? You would get 9 volts for a 9 volt battery.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Sounds great in theory, right? Theory doesn't apply in reality. A battery has to be checked under load to see how well it is performing. A new 9V with no load may measure out at ten volts or more... a battery that measures at nine even with no load may not have enough oomph left to power your device.

[@demaXxXx]

All batteries need a load to test, BUT there is one exception - A car battery - For a quick check there's list by voltage which tells you how much charge you have left on your car battery. I don't remember the numbers by memory but you can google or stop by a Motorhome repair shop to get the printout. i.e. example 24.1 requires charging, 24.6 volts fully charged; 24.5 volts 3/4 charged and so on. These aren't correct numbers but just the idea how it works. The chart goes quite into details i.e. 24.15 24.16 etc. It probably won't help car owners, it was meant for Motorhome housebattery owners that rely on Voltage for living conditions inside the coach.

[@Janus5691]

Hi :). I have a question. I have the same meter as the one in this video and I would like to know if the battery test setting will give the same measurment of mA as the reading of mA down in the current section. Do they not both measure the same thing or am I misunderstanding something? I tested a 9v battery with the battery setting and got 21mA. Then I tested the same battery down in he mA section of the dial and got .68A. Why the difference? Looking forward to your reply. Thank you.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Hi Michael; that is an awesome question. Your thinking is logical, but there is a caviat. To be honest, I do not know what the numerical value shown when in battery test mode is meant to show, but pretty much all I use it for is testing AA cells, which will show about 4.0 if they are in good shape. I assume it is in ma. You are getting a high reading across the cell in current mode because you are measuring the full current capacity of the cell across a dead short. If you were to try that with a car battery (Do NOT do this!!!! REPEAT... DO NOT!!!!) it would either melt the fuse or blow up the meter, as it would be about 700 AMPS through it, for a very brief moment. The battery check range has a built in resistance load in order to show how much "push" the cell has left in it for a given average task. No load /dead short current won't tell you much, will eat up your cell in a short time, and may overheat and cause fire if left connected for too long. Be safe, and keep questioning!

[@Janus5691]

@@GoingGoneGalt Thank you for your prompt reply. I noticed on other meters they also have this setting for 1.5 and 9 volt batteries but it is clearly volts they are measuring. On this meter I was thinking perhaps they designed the setting to measure mA but under a load they provide in the meter therefore expecting a reading of 4 mA for 1.5v and 25 for 9v. I am new to all of this but find it interesting. Although I would not tinker with such readings on large powerful batteries I do want to thank you sincerely for reminding me of this safety issue. And thank you also for taking the time to clarify for me :).

[@danbromberg]

SHTF?!? ...almost sounds like a curse word. (I just Googled it and I was close!)

[@maxmoulckers2989]

What is the blue plug to the left of the “on-off” switch?

[@und4287]

It's for testing transistors.

[@richardkenworthy9312]

When testing continuity how do you know what to set the meter to, 200 2000 20 ? Thanks You explained your videos so the average person can understand.

[@allanwoods8163]

Hi Richard, I have the same question...did you ever find out an answer to your question?

[@richardkenworthy9312]

No

[@Joeelectronicschematicsforauto]

LOWEST RANGE IN OHMS

[@garycleaveland2645]

Thanks for the video on my meter. Guess I'm a dummy 😂. I lost my manual on it and it is driving me nuts trying to figure out how to use it.

[@demaXxXx]

Multi-meters in general work all the same so download any manual to give you the basics in settings and measurements. Where the difference lies is in accuracy, longevity, perhaps more functions and quality. If you download a manual on multi-meter about the same price range you should be fine, what will differ on all meters is how to reach battery compartment, location & fuse specifications, and battery type, so don't throw away a fuse if its blown. You need it to buy the same fuse. Some multi-meters will have a 9 volt special battery, don't use that manual, they are for military use only. Hope it helped. '

[@sfret1]

Go more basic. SHOW an example of use for each setting. For instance: I can relate to how to test a battery because you showed me settings on the multi

[@mikalvanger6895]

nice video.....i though that multimeter is a piece of crap that's why they give it away for free...now i got to get myself one...thanks bro

[@GoingGoneGalt]

mikal vanger. They can be hit & miss..m. Ive had a few that had issues right out of the box, and some that have worked perfectly for years. I will say that the probes are crap.. Be careful or else you can pull the leads right out of them. But for a free beater meter... Can't beat it!

[@RANS87IROCZ]

I got a free one also with coupon, must say handy to have and it does work well

[@hughjanus4881]

mikal vanger Just got one free when I bought a 99c epoxy mix... Well worth the price.

[@maelstrom200018]

If you were to hold both probes in each hand and were to measure your own body's resistance what would it read in Ohms.Just curious

[@adambow95fire16]

I could use help troubleshooting a Hunter irrigation sprinkler controller. The display isn't receiving power. I need to know if it is the power supply adapter or if it is the internal computer that is burned out on the controller. The power supply is 24 volts from a power adapter plugged into the wall. Any help would be appreciated.

[@jaydee2620]

I do Hvac. U would b surprised what I have fixed with one of these free meters when I lost my Fieldpiece for about a week.

[@thekid1921]

ABSOLUTELY SUPERB TUTORIAL!!!! Finally, someone who knows how to address rank beginners about the MYSTERIES of Multimeters. Thank you so much for your expertise!!!!

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Thanks for watching and chiming in. I'm really happy you got something out of it... comments like this are what makes it worth it to do these. Please ask if there is anything I can help you understand better. Best of luck!

[@CaliforniaBushman]

Just bought a 5.99 plus tax multimeter from Harbor Freight. But it won't work. Potentiometer is missing inside on the PCB. Then I realise it's not a Cen - Tech. But a No Name Brand Knockoff you would find in say, Chinatown in NYC. Very Sketchy, Harbor Freight on Artesia & Hawthorne in L.A. County. I have the receipt. What should I do?!

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Take it back. They will refund or replace as long as you have the receipt. It's always a risk with low dollar chineseum equipment.

[@steves1083]

Thanks for the video. Just getting into electronics, so this video is what I needed. Sure beats reading the manual!

[@GoingGoneGalt]

The manual doesn't really tell you anything anyway. Best of luck!

[@fadingskater5102]

with which one of these option do you test capacitors with?

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Fading Skater well... you can and can't. for small ones, you can use the resistance ranges to make sure that they aren't 'leaking' or shorted. it cannot tell you if they are completely open and useless, or what the capacitance is. A capacitor tester is a completely different device. If you are applying it to an electrolyctic cap, make sure you observe the polarity so you don't damage the cap. hope this helped.... good luck!

[@johnnydoggs]

Mine only says 5A harbor freight freebie

[@stephendall2329]

I have one in my RV, another in my tool box and one in my truck. They were free at Harbor Freight and I got one each time I went in, even got one for my daughter to have at her new house. Learning the basics is a must if you do any home or auto repairs. If you are going to buy or rent a new house it is handy checking to see if the outlets are wired properly, I found some outlets wired backwards.

[@madeleinewestbrook9228]

What is the difference between voltage and live circuit? I'm trying to figure out how to test my dryer outlet.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

When looking at AC supply mains, we say that a circuit is "live" when it has voltage on it. It is either on (live), ot it isn't. There are very few situations in which you would not see full mains voltage when looking at a circuit, which would be 120 or 240 or possibly 208 in the US for anything you might see in a residence. If you see something very different than these, something is VERY wrong; you should probably shut off those branch breakers and call an electrician.

[@cincofive2027]

Hi i might be a little late i notice this video was made eight years ago Thank you for sharing your knowledge very appreciate Thank you Thank you

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Thank you for watching and learning. I hope this helped. Feel free to ask any questions, and never stop learning!

[@jaybrahmbhatt7197]

I have the same multimeter. Mine when turned ON, it does not show 0.00 but some numbers. As an example, when I set on DCV 20 and my both black and red terminals are not connected anywhere, it still keeps showing some numbers such as 0.87, 0.88 and keeps changing. How come it doesnot show 0.00 when it is not connected any where to measure? does it mean the multimeter is faulty or not correctly functioning?

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Well, that is the big downside to equipment that is made so cheaply out of pure chinesium that HFT could afford to give them away by the tens of thousands. The accuracy, especially at the super low ranges, is not good. Most of the time, a "close enough" reading will tell me what I need to know about what I am looking at in a given circuit. If I need good accuracy, Like when bench troubleshooting to component level, I will use my Fluke or BKP meters. Try yours, in the appropriate ranges, on known components like alkaline batteries, mains power, resistors, etc, especially if you can check it against another meter that is known to be accurate. If it suits your needs, great. If not, you will have to invest some money into some better gear. Best of luck, and thank you for chiming in.

[@waltercardenas7354]

Good video Thank you so much

[@itoldutruth669]

I got it too. However, why mine shows minus after being turned on, and yours doesn't ???

[@GoingGoneGalt]

The calibration on these chinesium meters isn't exactly the best. Also; what range do you have it set to?

[@chewie1355]

So a new 9 V battery reads about 26 milliamps?!? Why does it not read 9 V? Can't you put it on 20 DCV then measure it? (I'm got me a free meter and just curious on how to use it). Thanks in advance.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

You can take a simple open circuit voltage reading on a DC range, and it is better than nothing, especially if you are very familliar with the type of battery you are using and the equipment that you are using it in, like I am with Duracell Procells and wireless microphone systems. The purpose of the dedicated battery check range is to measure the battery / cell under a small load, to see how well it is performing. This gives a better estimation of condition than a simple open circuit voltage reading can. Hope this helps!

[@bAc0nBoY755]

Is this accurate enough to measure resistance in the 1-4 ohm range (to check my subwoofer wiring configuration)? Thanks for the video!

[@GoingGoneGalt]

It isn't very accurate in super low levels of resistance. Also... Just because a speaker coil is rated at 8 ohms, 4 ohms, etc, does not mean you can measure that with an ohmmeter. That rating is not resistance, it is nominal impedance, which is the dynamic opposition to current flow in an AC circuit, rather than the static resistance to DC current flow, which resistance is and what an ohmmeter measures. The voice coil on a loudspeaker that is rated 8 ohms might measure .2 to .5 ohms on an ohmmeter. For your subs, are you trying to wire them in parallel to get the impedance down and get more total power? Just do a visual inspection and compare to your schematic. Most important, make sure you have them in phase. Just use a 9v battery and make sure they are both extruding the same direction when you put it across the input. If they are out of phase, you will get no bass (self cancellation), and will soon destroy the spiders.

[@bAc0nBoY755]

@@GoingGoneGalt thanks for the info! Reason im asking is because I saw a video from Sonic electronics where the guy checks his wiring config with a multimeter and it seemed to work for him. I'm wiring 2 DVC 4 ohm subs down to 1 ohm to supply the sufficient RMS (Amp is mono and 1 ohm stable). My box has 2 separate compartments so I couldn't follow the diagrams exactly, just wanted to make sure how I have it wired is indeed ~ 1 ohm.First I wired each of the subs voice coils together (i.e. POS a of sub 1 to pos b of sub 1, same as diagram) then pos and neg of the subs to their terminals in the box, then connected the pos and neg wires from each terminal to the mono amp. I believe it would be the same but not entirely sure, I took physics years ago lol I'll make sure to check the phase too, thanks for the battery tip!

[@GoingGoneGalt]

@@bAc0nBoY755 Wiring two 4 ohm speakers in parallel will give you a combined impedance of 2 ohms. This is good. Car audio specs are usually grossly overstated, so staying within them by a factor of 2 is a good plan.

[@kellyokamoto1604]

I appreciate your vid. Learned a lot. You can get this multimeter from Harbor Freight (Item #90899/90825) many times for FREE!!!

[@GoingGoneGalt]

That's why I have a couple milk crates full of them! Thanks for watching & chiming in!

[@JohnBotero-e1o]

$5 bucks multimeter that can damage your expensive equipment your testing...🤣🤣im a mechanic myself.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Um... Okay. You do you dude.

[@tracysmith9934]

Yeah right

[@rogerwills7002]

Great job

[@gilsongallego2328]

Thanks for the video.just got the meter and needed the tutorial. I'm sure I'll watch it a few more times.

[@brucetench6557]

You didn't mention that blue circle on the left hand side what is that for

[@GoingGoneGalt]

I addressed that in another comment below... It is a transistor checker. I have never used it, IMHO it is a pretty useless feature in a beater field meter.

[@donnieparrish3312]

What is the top hole for 5adc???

[@GoingGoneGalt]

I think you mean the 10ADC port. It is where you put the + Lead when making inline current measurements of more than 200 ma. That would be used with the 10A range on the selector switch.

[@catfish500mark9]

Whats the little blue thing thats has the NPN and PNP just to the left of the on/off switch for?

[@GoingGoneGalt]

That is a transistor checker. I have never used it, but it should tell you the gain of the transistor being checked, as well as checking reverse bias. PNP and NPN refer to the two types of transistor configuration.

[@gabegarcia1199]

Thank you. I bought the sane product but couldn't figure out out till this video.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Glad I can help!

[@leesire]

Can you demo continuity again? This one will do it, but there is no beep?

[@GoingGoneGalt]

No, unfortunately, there is no beep on this one. That's a nice feature on a meter, as it allows you to keep your eyes on your work, especially if it's a low light situation, like i often find myself in. If you're needing that, then it's time to graduate to a slightly more expensive meter. Congrats! Your skills are growing!

[@jeffreydeutsch7336]

I have a couple of these that I stash in various places for quick checks or where I try to avoid bringing my good meter, like the garage. The specs are listed in the owners manual and for free they are not too bad. I verified them against my good meter that is 4.5 digit, .001% , with a NIST certificate. You almost never need that kind of accuracy but it makes a good calibration standard. I love it when somebody swears a piece of measuring equipmemt is accurate when they test it against another piece of junk and they match. There are a couple of things about this cheapo that annoy me. The probes when shorted together do not read O on the 200 ohms range. Some of it is in the crummy connectors and skinny test lead wire but even if you jump the terminals with a jumper of heavy copper wire, you see a rather unstable .4-.7 ohms. With leads it can be well over an ohm. At least in the old days, analog meters had a 0 adjust. Another problem is the really crummy test leads. The insulation often separates at the connector. That is where Amazing Goop comes in handy. It sticks well to the wires, has high dielectric strength (a good insulator), and is a good strain relief but it does look like crap. I agree, a beeper continuity check would be nice but the cost of the beeper element might raise the price beyond what most people pay for it: FREE!!. A frequency function is really reaching. I have used the transistor test function. It measures DC beta or how much a transistor amplifies. Good for selecting transistors in switching circuits. It actually works but the socket is such poor quality, that with much use you have connection problems. Frankly, I am amazed that they can make it so cheaply. I can't buy some of the components for what this goes for Another feature you will find in an even slightly better meter is auto ranging. You don't have to worry about frying the meter because you measured 48 volts on the 200mv range.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Very good points. Yes, the leads are crap and I wish it had a zero adjust (Like my Radio Shack Micronta analog meter that I have had since I was 12.. made in the early 80's and still works awesomely!) And about not being able to buy the parts that cheaply; that's another great use for it. I take them apart and use them for standalone voltmeters in my vehicles (Like the 3 I use in my RV to monitor the battery bank levels). Thanks for chiming in!

[@All2Skitzd]

I was gonna make a car voltage meter out of one until I got a good look at how it was put together (this was back before they went to the thinner smaller circuit board) so i just opted for the $2-3 Amazon voltage meter along with one that plugs to cigarette lighter for backup, but ive stuck the HF DMM on my dash for temporary when I had a 2000 Cavalier that had more money in the electrical system then the car was worth and had a switch hooked up to alternator to give it a small voltage boost when needed to make amps play louder and it made the car so if I had the music on when idling the motor wouldn't bog down or die as bad, I used to watch my voltages like most people watch the road

[@dirtypocketsct]

I always pick up a new free one because the leads break off. I always wondered why it never zeroed out too.

[@nasticanasta]

ONE huge thing you left out for the difference....no protection

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Like... a condom? Always carry one in a protected case.. and make sure it isn't expired!

[@juanmartin2655]

Thanks very informative, same to you and your love ones happy holidays!!!

[@trentnick2711]

If you’re that bored at work you’re not at work lmao

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Well, let's hear it for that guy who knows everything and speaks for everyone, the world's foremost authority on all subjects!

[@stevenroach9812]

Thank you for this video. It was very informative. I have one of these things in my tool box for years and had no idea how to use it. very cool, now I can get rid of any batteries that are dead in the drawer. What does SHTF stand for?...thx

[@GoingGoneGalt]

That makes my day when I hear I've helped someone, thank you so much for replying! And SHTF is a term used by the "doomsday prepper" community... standing for "When S#!+ Hits The Fan"; a possible day in the future when the systems of normalcy that we take for granted no longer are there.

[@demaXxXx]

GoingGoingGalt you didn't tell Steven he can't check his batteries with this meter, other than if they are completely dead, but even then dead batteries can come to life if charged properly. Steven needs a better Multi-meter or a battery tester to be certain.

[@oneitalia2312]

@@demaXxXx .... the multi-meter will not tell me if a battery is good or not?

[@dfields9511]

Great vid. I was looking for a video on how to use this tool. I picked up 2 of them at HFT for free with coupon. Except it only goes up to 5A

[@donk.johnson7346]

The continuity does not beep on mine, like yours. I have the same one and it was a freebee at Harbor Freight. So what should continuity show on the meter?

[@popatop75]

could i read how many watts something would use???? thanks

[@sammyhooligan803]

Similar here. I'v had exact digital multi meter for a year, unopened and battery still good and didn't leak . Just curious , i want to test if an old land line has electricity to charge my cell phone in case my charger gives out/damaged / and just to see if it can be done .. I'v read that some landline phone outlets that are not being used for landline services still can have power from possibly a secondary generator source. And trying to figure out how to test for possible cell phone charger use or if no electrical current then i want to use for a standard antenna for my television . By doing second plan i'd be using existing wire through out entire route in my apartment building untill it reaches to cut off point , power pole i'm guessing . Anyhow , i have a phone cable line plug in with two wires going into a flat seperate connectors(4 inches wire phone cord line from wall connector ) . What setting on mulimeter should i use? Thanks

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Attaching anything to a telephone line that is not a part 68 approved interface is, in the US anyway, a crime. The DC voltage on a telephone line between the tip and ring has nothing to do with what charges your cell phone, and would damage your phone badly if you tried to hook it up to it. It would also likely make a very poor antenna.

[@sammyhooligan803]

Definitely, additional using an LM317 or an L7805 voltage regulator along with a 3A rectifier diode (1000 V) directly on line should keep too much power from overload phone charger circuit. I tested it and has power . I have used other outlets for basic antenna reception (different location) but I made sure if no power was in line , that I had to ask property owner , didn't have a multi meter . Actually, antenna worked perfectly, so good he asked me to configure/ hook his television up. And that also worked awesome. Got television channels super clear without distortion and a few extra stations. Mainly because the telephone line was running quite a distance to a power box ( 60 yards , estimate). Anyhow, I going to give this next project a try , and see what I come up with . thanks

[@shawnparker5234]

How to check car relays with this

[@GoingGoneGalt]

You can check the coil to see if it is open, with the lowest resistance range. If it is open, the relay is definitely bad. You can check the normally closed contacts the same way. Unfortunately, it cannot check the operation of the relay without applying power to the coil.

[@oldrrocr]

thanks for the informative presentation. this meter: Free - and worth every penny. When do you toss it? (When the thought first occurs to you)

[@catsoandahalf]

Thanks for a nice, useful, explanation video.

[@donnienewton5682]

Hi Tripple G: A ? : what settings do you set the meter on to measure flow of electricity, example 60amp breaker feeding a heat pump, where the heat pump also has a 60amp breaker seperate from the breaker box, which is on the unit itself?

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Hi Donnie; I'm a little unsure just what it is that you want to check out. If you want to measure the current (amps) on something like that, you will have to use a "clamp-on" ammeter... maybe I will do a vid on one. This little meter does not have that capability. Is the heat pump working, or are you trying to troubleshoot it? Let me know, and best of luck to you....

[@donnienewton5682]

Its my brother heat pump, the inside breaker for the home is got a little warm and tripped. The breakers on the unit doesn't trip so we figured that the breaker was bad where there was electrical condensation built around the breaker. Changed out the breaker on the unit and still the breaker inside the home trips off. Thanks for responding back,

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Well, if the breaker is warming up and tripping, that's certainly an indicator of an overcurrent situation. You didn't mention what the ratings on the breakers are. Also, heat pumps are usually 220, so it will probably be a dual gang breaker to feed it. I'm not sure what electrical condensation is... if you're getting water around your breakers, that's bad all around. Best of luck to you...

[@ReelNautiAdventures]

How do you check the control box for a water well with this multimeter? I've searched Google and KZbin without any luck.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

You will have to give a little more detail... Which component in the box do you suspect might be bad?

[@ReelNautiAdventures]

I was wanting to check each component in the control box to make sure that they were all functioning properly. Fortunately, the issue was the less expensive and easiest part to replace- the pressure switch. I would still like to know how to run through and check the components of the control box for future reference if possible.

[@thomasbrown2246]

I don't have the foggiest notion what the hell you're talking about. You did say if I kooked it up to a wall outlet. I could blow up my multimeter.

[@way2g619]

😎👍

[@GrizOnTheTrail]

Could you please explain the three plug-in female ports on the meter...which ones are used for each function???? Thanks.

[@ronsbeerreviewstools4361]

I just started buying tools at Harbor Freight, and i forget to get the free gift, the cashiers never tell me.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Gotta watch out for the coupons! Thx for watching & best of luck to you!

[@ronsbeerreviewstools4361]

Thanks, i didnt mention omy first comment, is this is a good video on that vom, and sad u cant travel with Fluke meters ,cause they will be stolen.....its true. I can remember when u could leave tools arond....becauseNo Body Stole a working mans tools. Whats happened to America????????????

[@tracysmith9934]

We been invaded by Biden's finest ​@@ronsbeerreviewstools4361

[@mytidawg]

When you were checking the AC in the power strip you didn't let us know what the hot one was meaning did the black or the red go in which side where you plug into the power strip I'm pretty sure from other videos the larger longer of the power strip is the black negative

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Hi mity; I would suggest that you check out some videos on basic electrical theory. When dealing with AC (The power that comes out of the wall) there is no "positive" or "negative", as the EMF (voltage) swings between both equally at a rate of 60 times per second (in North America, anyway). So, it does not matter which probe you apply to which side of the outlet, you will get the same reading. There is a difference between them, however, as you had stated. The smaller slot is the "Hot" side (which carries the power potential, both positive and negative in relation to Neutral / Ground. This is the side that will hurt or kill you if you come in contact with it!) and the larger side is the "neutral" (which SHOULD be at the same potential as ground, but is there exclusively to carry the current back to the source, whereas the ground is there to protect from voltage potential where it shouldn't be). It is necessary to take note of which probe you use when measuring DC potential (like in a car's electrical system), so you can confirm what you are looking for. In that case, you are right, black will be negative and red will be positive. If you did reverse them, it will not hurt the meter, but you will see a "-" symbol before the reading... indicating a "negative" potential. I hope this helped.. thank you for your question!

[@johndempsey7106]

Hello, thanks for your help in advance.... I've had power supply adapters fail, such as for a cable box or CCTV camera hard drive adapters where the output..is 12v

[@nor4277]

I got mine free ,from there ,I seen people do amazing things with this cheap meter ,me I keep this one in the car ,I have several other meters for work on electronics of a better grade someday like most guys I want a fluke meter .thanks for your video.

[@joes6883]

it would'bve better to move it to 20V for the batteries. No one knows the mil lamps.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Well, i explained in the vid why using the battery check range is better than measuring the no load voltage, but you obviously know better than I do.

[@cometcal2]

This has been explained in the video and in the comments of others who asked the same question.

[@EvendimataE]

i have the coupon to get it free....i buy their cheapest producr, about a dollar to get that for free...now i have 14 of those that i can give as christmas gift to friends LOL

[@GoingGoneGalt]

E-tape, spray paint, loctite... all the consumables that you want to stock up on are always a great excuse to get a freebie! Combine it with the 20% off coupon to leverage the value even more!

[@TheFvonreiche]

Great video! BTW pencils have graphite not lead 🙂

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Thank you.... and they are still called pencil leads, even though they aren't. Lead would be a lot more conductive.

[@splash5974]

good vid! i have a similar meter and ive always wondered what the little circle thing with letters, in the lower left corner of the meter does? Its left of your OFF switch on your meter... Thanks

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Not being able to see it, I would guess that it is a transistor checking utility, which will check transistors for leakage and test their inherent gain. For the record.. I have NEVER used this function. That's really more of a mid level bench technician need. Thanks for watching & chiming in!

[@splash5974]

GoingGoingGalt ok thanks! so im assuming you would insert the 3 legs of it into this part of the meter... good to know

[@GoingGoneGalt]

You just have to know which are the emitter, the base, and the collector, and then there is probably a switch to select the type, either pnp or npn. Good luck!

[@splash5974]

GoingGoingGalt ya, looks like 6 holes in it and pnp and npn are marked. So it should be easy enough to get a datasheet on the specific # before testing it. thx again

[@alvarezbenjamin8519]

Very heipful, thanks.

[@johnsalas4357]

Simple and informative. Most of us just need it to test power and resistance. Thank you

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Thank you and I hope it helped. Those things are 99% of what I use them for in the field as well. Keep learning!

[@grandcreator11]

so what about if im testing for 48v with multiple batteries in a car... i put it to 200v? cause i left my voltimeter at 20v and it reads 1. on the screen... i have my measure dial too low than 200v?

[@All2Skitzd]

Yeah it should be at 200V, 1. just means its out of range. I always suggest getting a autoranging meter to start with because it makes learning a lot easier.

[@oneitalia2312]

You're a genius! I'm a clock person, they take AAA, AA, D, C and 9v batteries. I have the same meter as yours. PLEASE tell me what the the screen should read in order for these batteries to be good. I'm putting the dial to "1.5v" like the instructions say......what's good, what isnt??? THANK YOU!

[@GoingGoneGalt]

It kinda depends on the current load that will be asked of them whether or not they will be usable for your application. New ones usually read 4.0 to 4.3, i usually toss them below 3.6 or so... But what a clock requires, i don't know... I would bet that you could drain them down pretty far... Measure one that died in your clock to see where it is.. You will get a sense of what is usable or not. Practice practice practice!

[@oneitalia2312]

@@GoingGoneGalt You have helped me out tremendously! I love my meter, the instructions are easy enough but it doesn't say what to look for or what a good or bad reading should display. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME (no pun intended:-) Gotta LOVE KZbin! ..... and I do! Thanks again! ♡

[@jeffhiggins8087]

Thank you so much! I just want to see if my camera batterys are charged and i couldnt figure out the meter. (The directions are not user friendly for me). Now i can test them!

[@hhhydrom3198]

so my car is blowing fuses from the a/t cont fuse every time I turn on the switch. Does that mean I have a wire grounding out and what settings will I use on this multimeter to check and pull fuse one by one to narrow it down?

[@georgedubbs8474]

Please don’t tell SHOW THE BULB AND FUSE something all,of us would do!

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Well then, do it.

[@cimbakahn]

GoingGoingGalt: I have one of these that I got at Harbor Freight Tools. It is the exact same one that is in this video. I have had it in a drawer for many years, and it has never been opened. I was wondering if there is a battery inside it that makes it work? If so, do you think I should replace the battery?

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Yes; there is a 9v battery inside that powers the unit. If it doesn't power up when you turn it on, then the battery would probably be the problem. There are, if i remember right, two tiny phillips head screws that hold the back on to give you access to inside. Make sure the leads are not connected to anything before you open it up. Let me know if this fixes you up. Thanks for mentioning this, i guess i never did!

[@cimbakahn]

@@GoingGoneGalt Thanks for your help! When i get a 9V battery i'll let you know.

[@jaymonroe9105]

I am trying to test my travel trailer converter. what setting should I put the meter on, 20DCV? some instructions say to plug the trailer into 110, remove two 30 amp fuses, and touch positive to the blue wire(terminal) and negative to white (ground). So, set the meter to 20DCV and got a reading of .01

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Jay Monroe without seeing your converter, it's hard to tell if you should be reading something there or not. I'm not sure why you would be removing the fuses, unless to isolate from the trailer wiring. If you have it plugged in and it's not giving you the 12v - 14v that you're expecting to see, yoy may have a problem with the converter unit. Test your meter on the terminals of the starting battery to make sure the meter is working right. Best of luck!

[@billandpech]

Thanks. I really just needed to see where to plug in the leads, but learned more!

[@trankt54155]

You get it for free at HB but it does not have capacitor testing feature but it is very good.

[@albear972]

Thanks! Very instructional video. If I may ask, what is the other plug ised for? the empty one. And what is the blue part next to the off button on this multimeter used for?

[@GoingGoneGalt]

The open probe hole is for the 10 amp range when measuring DC current. The blue block is for testing transistors. I have never used this on this meter, so I cannot vouch for how well it may work. Sorry about the lateness of the reply!

[@psyclinez5985]

I just got mine yesterday & it's the same as this one. They still cost more then 5 bucks, I paid 23.00 bucks for mine. But great video brother... Ima call your Boss and tell him,you need your pay bumped 👆... And aloud to make videos anytime you wish. Lolol I truly would, shoot me the number I got ya. Blessed be...

[@GoingGoneGalt]

PSYC LINEZ Thx for the shout... No worries on my gig, I've moved on and in a much better place now. You've probably got a much better quality meter than the one i demo here... It pays to buy quality tools when you can. Thank you for watching & chiming in... Best of luck to ya!

[@ke7azd432]

hello, ke7azd here, I was building a 2m dipole and can't afford a mfj on my shoestring budget. I got this mm free. can I use it to tune my antenna

[@GoingGoneGalt]

I don't think that you can use it that way, but then again, I'm not really an RF guy. There may be a hack for that! I just got an old CB SWR meter at a local thrift store for like five bucks... keep your eyes out... the bargains are out there!

[@Jhnmor]

Great Video Thank you

[@josemonte495]

THANKS - very useful and eeasy to follow

[@sketchin1009]

Awesome. Thanks for sharing!

[@anthony84vette]

Thanks,Big Help

[@rahanabandu8154]

Not good

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Wow... That was amazingly insightful. How brilliant and helpful you are! Now, may I have fries with that?

[@fassstEddie]

Will it test those larger batteries for my flashlight? They are known as 18650 3.7V.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

It will give you a reading, but what that reading means you will have to figure out on your own. Try it with a vrand new one, and comoare that to one that is just this side of dead, and you will see what i mean. Best of luck to you...

[@jayinla81]

To check for continuity with this cheap multimeter, you mentioned it was possible. But since this one doesn't have the audio beep to check for continuity, what am i looking for on the screen to show there was or isnt continuity between a fuse for example?

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Hi j... To test continuity with this guy, set the dial to the 200 ohm setting,and short the probes together. Note this reading, as it will be very close to what you should see when there is continuity. This is covered about halfway through the video. Good luck!

[@judyettenberg5472]

I have this meter, I have to test the continuity of the capacitor and the compressor what do I set the meter on to do this? How do I test this meter to make sure it is calibrated right? thanks Judy

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Judy Ettenberg hi Judy; this meter does not have a capacitor test mode. A capacitor tester is a completely different animal. You can put the leads across the cap in resistance mode and see if the cap is shorted (reading on the display will be the same as if you just shorted the leads together), but that's about it. it cannot tell you if the cap is working to its rated ability. if you are checking it for a short, be sure to isolate it from the circuit first so you are not also looking across the winding of the motor. best of luck!

[@shep6123]

You explain it very good thank you

[@johngraham6839]

can you check a capacitor with one of these?

[@josequintana5559]

Thank you for sharing. A question. Can car fuses be tested with this particular multimeter.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

I'm sorry about the late reply... I didn't see it! Yes.. but make sure to take them out of the fusebox before testing them, or you can fry the meter. Once you have it out, put the meter on a resistance range (ohms) and put the leads across the fuse legs or caps... one on each. The readout should drop to near zero, or the same as if you short the leads together without the fuse between them. If it does, the fuse is good. If it does not change, the fuse is open (bad).

[@billyfelix1353]

Thanks, I'm a total novice, I was trying to figure if a line on my deck had power, with all the settings on the multi meter, I was lost. Thanks for clearing it up. I had bought something from HF and had a coupon for a free multimeter, i'm happy it work, free isn't always a good thing, Thanks again.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Anytime, my friend... if there is anything that I can help you out with in the future, please feel free to ask! Good for you for diving in and tackling the problem yourself.. feels much better than calling out an overpriced service tech. Keep at it!

[@hughjanus4881]

Just got mine a an hour or so ago, I had to open it up and hot glue the board down to the case where the leads fit in because that section of board was flexing. I also had to push the battery connector ring the battery connects to together because it was bent out of shape, other than that, or should I say aside from that it seems to work as it should.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Hugh Janus; For the price ya pay for it, stout construction and NASA tolerances are a bit much to ask. Hope it does well for you!

[@VanPrepper]

Definitely a great item to have

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Thank you for the share, V! Peace & projectiles to ya'!

[@justindasilva73]

Thanks for the video just got this free at HF and if it matters I'm an automotive student at my high school

[@GoingGoneGalt]

justindasilva73 Awesome! Thank you for checking it out. With the way things are now, automotive work is more about electronics than about mechanics anymore, so it will be critical for you to understand this as well as any electronics tech. Please feel free to ask questions any time... maybe you'll inspire me to another vid on the subject. Please subscribe... I'll be doing a contest soon and I'll probably be giving away a few more of these. Peace!

[@sprydo7113]

Thank you., Sir.This information was very helpful! Happy Holidays....

[@GoingGoneGalt]

And to you as well!

[@Raymax642]

What is the other port for on the right used for on the red lead.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Hal Greene I'm pretty sure the one you are looking at is for the 10A measurement range... It has to be in a different port than the other ranges because it passes a relatively large current through it. Hope this helped......

[@kenw3376]

thanks for the information it helped a lot you showed me what I needed to know

[@rentsmiami]

Good Info. Thanks. Question can this unit be used to check the voltage and condition on a 12v marine deep cycle battery?

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Any voltmeter is just measuring the voltage potential across whatever two points you put the probes on, in real time as they are placed. It will tell you what the voltage is across the terminals, but not what kind of power the battery is capable of delivering. The only way to test a battery like that is to put it on a load tester, which you can do for free at most auto parts stores, or you can buy your own there, or @ wallys or harbor freight for between $50 and $100, depending on how fancy you want it. Good luck!

[@ericwilson4901]

What setting do you use to check your washer & dryer terminals?

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Eric Wilson i would need more info than that... Which terminals are you referring to? What is the problem you are having?

[@FOXFIRECOMD1]

When do you plug it into10ADC the other red socket

[@demaXxXx]

You'll never use it, so don't worry.

[@michaeljetel5499]

Thank you for this video.

[@SAdozer]

1st time using 1. Got the same model you show from HF awhile back but never thought I'd use it. I had to check for continuity on a mini fridge compressor today. Thanks for your instructions. Your a great teacher.

[@GoingGoneGalt]

Thank you so much... hope it helped!

[@allenbuck5589]

Good job. Thanks

[@shep6123]

You explained it very good