Hard Lead Climbing POV - pt1

In this video I strapped a GoPro to my head during my lead session, and the results were interesting...
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[@JustinDKim]

First Ascent Arlington Heights! such sick gym, had the honor of being one of the first people to climb on those lead walls a couple years ago.

[@taric_112]

More POV videos! ❤

[@x3i4n]

#extreme damn dude

[@harpersellars]

Nice send!!!

[@bendavis575]

Sick send. Curious about people's opinions of clipping the anchors AFTER grabbing the top of the wall. Does that affect it being a flash or red point, in your view? Just bc it takes a little extra pump / effort to clip twice more without the top of the wall

[@bendavis575]

Also, I wanna see you get that pink 5.13- to the left!

[@MikeyKris]

My opinion on this is that when doing a route just for training or projecting, you can clip from the top of the wall. I have seen multiple routes that force clipping from the top of the wall. For competitions though, you must clip the anchors from the last hold in order to count the send.

[@bendavis575]

​@@MikeyKrisokay thanks for explaining. Didn't mean to be judgy, I just didn't know what the norms are

[@pol479]

to me its not a send, the route finishes when u clipped the anchors, if you used the wall to clip u cheated

[@MikeyKris]

@@pol479 i used to wall to clip the anchors because this route was part of my training for the day. Its well below my projecting level, so I wasn’t necessarily taking it seriously and climbing it just to get the send. I climbed this route again after the filming of this video and clipped from the final hold.

[@johnengels8017]

Why did you clip the bottom clips on the pink route next to you and not the clips for the green route you were climbing? Our gym would yell at use for clipping outside the route we are climbing.

[@MikeyKris]

Good question! If you look closely, the draws I clipped have green tape on them that corresponds to the green route which i was climbing. I also confirmed with the routsetters before doing this one since I had similar confusion when I looked at it

[@johnengels8017]

@@MikeyKris That is odd i would guess that's a mistake from the gym cause if you look at the clips going up there all in a line going up each lane. So why is there the ones right in the center of the green lane and if you look at the big picture they all go straight up the center of each lane. Might be something to ask the gym witch ones are correct. Or maybe its a clipping challenge for that route i didn't think of that till i was typing this.

[@mikewbma]

I get the feeling he did not clip the most straight to the anchor path leading to a lot unnecessary rope drag but a send none the less probably in the 90% tile of climber in the gym now

[@MikeyKris]

Yes, I thought that the draws that I clipped on this route were wrong as well, but if you look closely there is green tape on the draws that I clipped that corresponds to the green route that I was climbing. Also, recently I sent a 5.13b!

[@olivermadariaga988]

@@MikeyKris dont think that means anything. theres blue tape on the middle quickdraws and there isnt even a blue route on the wall. you should have clipped the middle draws. good send though!

[@MikeyKris]

@@olivermadariaga988 actually, I was supposed to clip those green draws. I asked the setter of this route (who is also my coach) before hopping on it, and he specified to clip the draws with the green tape. The draws with the blue tape were there from a route that was previously set there. Thanks!