Hatfield SAS 3 1/2 Inch Review

[@JEEMLlbsj]

I just go one, but i am having ishues with 2 3/4 high velocity shells. It does cycle and feeds the next round but it doesn’t eject the previous shell, this has cause a pre detonation on the chambered shell by making the bolt hit the allready fired shell and act as the firing pin. Making the shell lever to brake my trigger guard. I allready change the trigger guard and 3in shells work grate but 2 3/4 do the same thing. Not i broke yet another trigger guard :( any suggestions??

[@bgdesignandsolutions]

If it cycles and feeds the next round, the empty shell is not in the receiver unless it is sitting sideways with part of the hull hanging out of the receiver. In which case, there should be no live round in the chamber to strike. You end up with one wanting to feed, but can't because the other is jamming it. I suggest it is something else like this: If you're shooting and the trigger assy comes apart, or is blown out the bottom, that is more likely caused by the extractor pin coming out the bottom of the bolt. This prevents the bolt from closing al the way. When shot, the power ends up going out the bottom, taking the shell lifter along with it. Basically destroying the trigger assy. The extractor pin is what holds the extractor in place on the bolt assy. If it hasn't been staked in place, it will come out and blow the bottom of the trigger housing out by failing to allow the bolt to fully close. Buy a new trigger assy, and double check the bolt assy to see if the pin is "staked" in place. I have had two of them blow out the bottom on me because of it. Another possibility, is the firing pin itself. I noticed mark off on the primers of shells that were chambered and not shot, then taken out. Light primer strikes is caused by the firing pin floating froward when the bolt is closed. This concerned me, so I shortened the firing pin until there was no mark off on the primer. Just file the tip and don't worry about it being round. Just make sure there is no primer strike on the shell after chambering it.

[@JEEMLlbsj]

Okay so, i just installed a new trigger assembly, i notice that when manually cycling the bolt (using snap caps) the extractor won’t completely eject the allready fired shell (2 3/4 shells) this from time to time makes the shell to stay sideways(metal of the shell inside and plastic outside) while a new round has been chamber, causing the metal part of the fired shell to hit the primer (once the bolt goes foward) of the new shell causing the pre detonation. Witch is what destroyed the previous two trigger guards. So my question is, is my extractor bad? I also notice that the hole were the shells eject is just enough to fit a shell, can this cause the shell to not eject properly? Noted using 3in shells the shotgun has no problems ejecting the shell.

[@bgdesignandsolutions]

@@JEEMLlbsj These guns *_are not_* specifically designed to shoot 2-3/4" shells. They will shoot them most of the time, but not all the time. Nor shoot all brands of ammo in the same weight class. The distance is obviously longer before a 2-3/4" shell reaches the ejector on the barrel than a 3" or 3-1/2" shell. If there isn't enough pressure pushing the shellback, it will jam just as you have said. To test your issue, I just put a round in the magazine, and a spent shell in the barrel of my gun. (couldn't find my snap caps) I noticed this only rises when the trigger has been pulled. Which makes sense, otherwise the shell release will not let the shell out of the magazine. Obviously, I didn't fire on a loaded round, but fired on the empty shell in the barrel. Then I pulled the bolt back slowly and it replicated exactly what you said. Interesting. I did it again, only this time pulling the bolt back faster to cycle, and the shell ejected and cleared with no issues. So power to push the bolt back is part to blame as I see it. My suggestion is this: use a heavier load in 2-3/4", and make sure the tracks and rails are well oiled. They really do perform better with the oiling. And, it may just need more break in time, which I doubt is the issue. However, its' not worth injury to keep testing rounds that could prove injurious. So you may be better off not shooting 2-3/4" at all and just stick to the 3" and 3-1/2" shells. Your life is worth far more than that. It sounds like you are lucky it did not injure you. While I tend to think the lack of power or the lack of oil, or both, is the issue of not cycling, I can see where it could happen on any shell that didn't eject properly, whether it be 3" or even a 3-1/2". However, I would really be concerned about the primer as well. Any primer that will go off that easy with the rim of another shell is highly questionable as to thickness and quality. Thank you for bringing this issue out in the open.

[@bgdesignandsolutions]

@@JEEMLlbsj I had some more thoughts on this issue. If you're using the gas piston that doesn't have a ring around it, it will do just what you're describing. There isn't enough seal on the piston to push the bolt back, regardless if you're using a good powered 2-3/4" shell. Second, if the extractor is moving when you push on it and it doesn't show any sign of too loose, or too tight, it wouldn't be the extractor. But if it drags, you may want to take it out and sand or file one or both sides of it to eliminate any burrs. The ejection port, or hole, is more than enough to eject all the shells this gun is designed for.

[@JEEMLlbsj]

I am using the piston with the ring on it, i did try using the other piston with the 2 3/4 shells but the gun did not even cycle. I did notice that when using an empty 3in shell it does eject properly doing it manually, then using the 2 3/4 some do eject, some don’t and some rare ones do a 360 and goes back inside backwards, very weird, now this is only moving the bolt manually. I had shot 25 1600fps Federal ammo without issues. The 2 3/4in i have been using are Winchester High Velocity 1330fps steal shot. This are the ones that cause the two detonations when one of the shells ejected half way. Now in total i have shot around 50 shells, 25 3in high brass and 25 2 3/4in low brass with ejecting issues. Would maybe shooting two more boxes of high brass would brake it in more? I have notice that high brass shells get ejected from 3 to 6 feet away and the 2 3/4 shells eject close to my feet or maybe 1 ft away from me. The two times i have taken it to the range it has been very well lubricated, and it has been clean very well after the two detonations since some unburn powder was blown on the bolt and trigger assembly. I really want to make this gun work properly so maybe sticking to 3in would be the way to go. I am kind of afraid of taking it again to the range since it has allready detonated twice. First time i had my hand on the bolt to try and clear out the stuck shell when it detonated, nothing bad happend to my hand just some gunpowder that got tuck on my finger. The second time it did it by it self, i was just shooting then on the 3rd round it did the same thing but the bolt keept cycling making the stuck shell to hit the primer of the loaded shell.

[@SixTwoHemi]

Nice shotgun. I got one on clearance at Wally. I personally think 3-1/2” loads are obsolete with the technology ammunition companies put into 3” loads. Thanks for sharing!

[@bgdesignandsolutions]

You're right. On steel there's not much advantage going to 3-1/2. But lead on Turkeys is different story. The 3-1/2 Longbeards do a lot better than the 3" do. I've taken 3 over 60 yards (62, 63, & 64 yards) with 3-1/2" Longbeards. Duck and goose hunting is pretty much limited to 40 yards or less, and you're right, the 3" is just as good. But if you're like me, a good reloaded 2-3/4" will bring them down just as easy, and sometimes even pattern better. I typically use 2-3/4 for ducks, no reason to go any higher. And use 3 or 3-1/2 for geese. My 3" 1-1/4 works fine, but sometimes like a 1-1/2 oz load, so I do the 3-1/2.

[@jonorson1426]

I purchased mine at a local Walmart here in Louisiana back in Nov. 2020 for $236 out the door. I definitely got lucky! I love this gun. Was a little sticky in the beginning with lower power 2 3/4 shells. After running some heavy 3 1/2 and 3 magnum rounds she broke in nicely.

[@bgdesignandsolutions]

Yep. I think they did it right on this version.

[@jeremiahvallot1713]

What walmart? I live in LA

[@jonorson1426]

@@jeremiahvallot1713 Dam Jeremiah, just seeing your question. I purchased from Abbeville Walmart.

[@CobyFischer]

I just bought this gun. It comes with 2 pistons, one in the gun and one in the box. Which piston is which?

[@leeoutdoorguy5304]

I have the same gun but how come mine dont have the gas thing attach to the barrel, shoot everything fine but sometime it double load what can i do to fix that?

[@bgdesignandsolutions]

Double loading is caused by the shell stop that stops the shells coming out of the magazine tube. It's a process to fix but it can be done if you're willing to take it all apart. Too much to explain here. I haven't seen any that don't have the gas relief removed from the barrel. In know the first ones were made that way, so maybe they went back to that design. Can't say.

[@CobyFischer]

I just bought this gun. It’s comes with two pistons. One in the gun and one in the box which one do you use for 3” shells?

[@Dmowery5036]

I hope to buy me one of them soon. Been looking at them for a while

[@williamtaylor8463]

Just purchased this gun from buds. Im only planning on using 3 1/2 in it i have other guns for smaller loads. Hope this one will work well. Is it still working great for you 2 years after this video?

[@bgdesignandsolutions]

Still going. Had to replace the bolt assy because the lug shaved off on it. But stills works fine. I bought another one and had issues with it from day one. I really need to make an updated video on this gun. But for the most part, I use it hunting geese because it has a lighter recoil to it than others have.

[@thefatalproject6802]

I have been having major issues with gun. Bolt keeps catching partway in the reload cycle and won’t push the shell into the chamber. Any suggestions?

[@bgdesignandsolutions]

If this gun didn't do it at first, and if you haven't cleaned it, do that now. Then oil the slides in the receiver, the bolt, and any part that moves. Semi auto's need lubrication to function, shooting them dries out the oils. Not knowing how far the bolt is stopping, so I'm assuming, check to see where the shell is when it catches. Not the bolt, the shell. You need to be looking at the shell when it catches. Don't move anything when it catches, and look close. See if the shell is hitting the barrel chamber opening, it could be the arm that raises the shell is slightly tweaked, which can stop the shell from entering. Usually on 3-1/2 shells only. If it is, it's a simple fix, but hard to describe in writing so as not to confuse anyone. It's just a matter of re-aligning things. Perhaps I should make a video on that. Other than that, the only other issue may be the spring and retainer on the left side of the trigger assy. Make sure it isn't dragging against the plastic housing. This is rare, but it could happen, and it will stall the loading cycle if it's dragging. Also make sure the loads are on the heavy side if you're using 2-3/4" shells. But I think lubrication may be the reason.

[@albertcabriales424]

I have the same gun what 2 3/4 shells did YOU use

[@bgdesignandsolutions]

I replied to another comment you made, but use higher velocity loads in 2-3/4. I had to break mine in before it would shoot them. Make sure to clean and apply fresh oil your gun after a break in period. I didn't expect it to shoot the 2-3/4, it just happened to turn out that way.

[@albertcabriales424]

Thanks

[@mantleclock2978]

How are the hatfield sas holding up over time

[@bgdesignandsolutions]

I still have my first one and it's going on 5 years. I like hunting dove with it. However, I did put synthetic stocks on it as a upgrade. Tricky, but made it work. My other one is doing fine and is only 2 years old, but I hardly ever shoot it. So it just sits in the safe. I expect this 3-1/2 inch one will last quite awhile since it's a proven design that's been around a long time. I'd like to point out, my first auto was a Remington 11-48, I bought back in the late 70's, and it worked fine too. They're still around these days along with the same quirks they had back then. However, quirks don't go away with age no matter what gun it is. Given time like others, I expect these will do the same. Some will survive, and some will go to the scrap yard or for parts, and some will go to collectors. But I don't see this 3-1/2 version heading that way none too soon. It's tougher and better designed than the regular SAS.

[@dewaynewhite4889]

How much did you pay,and where did you find it

[@bgdesignandsolutions]

Believe it or not, I saw it at a Walmart, but didn't buy it right away. After thinking about it, I went back 3-4 days later and it was still there. It was the last one. I guess they had more than one in stock. So I decided to buy it because of the gun shortage going on. Total came to $349 and some change.

[@dewaynewhite4889]

@@bgdesignandsolutions if you see another holler loud

[@bgdesignandsolutions]

@@dewaynewhite4889 You asked if I see one to holler loud. I saw one today. Priced at $328.