Headway 38120 HP 200 Amp LifePO4 Cells Steel Or Copper Bus Bars, Does It Really Make A Difference?

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ALTERNATIVE Cells-Batteries 4 SPIM08HP 3.7V 8AH LITHIUM POLYMER BATTERIES 25C 200A At eBay: ebay.us/eKq3lP
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01/21/19
Headway 38120 HP 200 Amp LifePO4 Cells Steel Or Copper Bus Bars, Does It Really Make A Difference?
Took a less than week to get the pack Pennsylvania to Texas
I state in the video that it was 1200mAh over in charge capacity but that was a typo it actually was 120mAh over in charge capacity. Thank you to foxabilo for pointing it out to me.
batteryuniversi...
BMS Type DLX-9013-L10S-13N13-W02
Protected cut off upper 41.9
Protected cut off lower 28.79V
Battery pack is 4.0 AH 20A max Output(theoretical, not tested)
Battery Management System (BMS) is a protection circuit only
NOT a balancing circuit
Specifications For Cells:
Rated power: 2000mAh
Model: LS LR1865LA
Rated voltage: 3.6V / 4.2V
Charging voltage: 4.2 ± 0.05 V
Discharging voltage: 2.75 ± 0.05 V
Standard charging current: 1C
Standard discharge current: 1C
Maximum charging current 1C (T≥10 C)
Maximum discharge current: 10C 20A (t≥0 C)
Recommended temperature: when charging 0 ~ 45 C, with discharge: -20 ~ 60 C
Size: 65.1 x 18.4 mm
Weight: 46 g
Life cycle: after 300 recharges the capacity is retained by more than 75%
License: MSDS 2006/66 / EC UN38.3 UL1642 IEC62133 SDS CE KC CQC BSMI WERCS
Certificates: ROHS / CE / FCC / UL
Headway 38120 HP 200 Amp LifePO4 Cells Steel Or Copper Bus Bars, Does It Really Make A Difference?

[@richardlloydusa]

These cells are now BACK IN STOCK on Ebay: goo.gl/VpGao2 See the Video description above for all the links. Thank You . All the best.

[@BEdmonson85]

Copper pipe can be softened by heating it up with a torch and then quenching it in water; that makes it much easier to flatten. The flattening process whether by hammering or crushing in a press will work harden it back to a harder state. Just a tip for those wanting to try this.

[@freetrailer4poor]

What I would like to see is you using these as a replacement in the car for several weeks or even a month. Also letting the car sit for a month to see if it starts. Many people have lightly used cars and after a month the batteries die, and when they die the voltage drops below 12.4 and then the sulfates grow and even a new battery is destroyed. However, if you let your phosphate batteries go to zero, they will swell. You can recover them over a 2 weeks if you put a voltage on them again. Your attention to detail is great again. When I bought lithium cells the bus bars had a v in them I think it was to provide some bending if they ever went to zero. If you have rigid bus bars it could tear the battery apart.

[@fun_ghoul]

Why would someone's old car battery kill the new one? You have no clue what you're on about, which is the usual thing with people who think themselves smart. lol

[@justsoyouknow1196]

Add some super caps beween the battery and starter and u wont see much drop and they will provide the big amp rush thats hard on the battery

[@kcryeung1]

Great testing video. Amongst all other useful suggestions to you, now I add mine! Stacking copper plates is great! For me, I will clean them and solder them as one! This will enhance conductivity, and stops trapping moisture in between! That's the way I look at it, anyway! Keep up your good work!

[@isaackarjala7916]

Current conducts along the surface of a metal better than it conducts through the material, so the tripled up copper bus bars are at a significant advantage for a reason other than being copper

[@SuperVstech]

FYI... rolls of copper are annealed, or soft... so, much easier to crush. Also, choose, K or L grade copper, and it is thicker copper.

[@frankz1125]

Aluminium flat bar is great and cheap. Thanks for the vid.

[@frankz1125]

1 inch x1/16 is rated for 200a

[@richardlloydusa]

I will have to have a look at the hardware store for a suitable piece. Thanks.

[@Poepad]

Quit buying new, hit the recycling center, you buy pennies on the pound.

[@richardlloydusa]

Thank you.

[@tech29X]

Hey, just got done building copper bus bars made from 2ft long 3/4" type L copper pipe purchased from local hardware store. Charging the "battery pack" for 12Volt config at 14.6V Constant voltage. 3/4" diameter Type L copper pipe has a little thicker wall. Couldn't find type K pipe which has thickest wall. Used a pipe cutter that you clamp and turn around the pipe until it just falls off. I don't recommend hack sawing, unless you want an arm work out. Used just one layer, crushed it flat with a hammer, drilled them with 1/4" bit, 40mm apart. It's very rigid, no wiggle or flex. Used cells I purchased did not come with M6 screws, so I had to purchase a bunch from the hardware store. In case anyone is wondering M6 pan head screws 10mm long works good. If you can't find 10mm, get 12mm or 16mm long and just add an M6 nut or stack of washers to avoid piercing the battery cell. If you use too long of a screw, you might end up screwing yourself.

[@tech29X]

Correction: Forgot to mention, try to cut the pipe into about 65mm sections. You'll need at least 3 pieces for 4S, 12Volt.

[@marktheamerican4162]

Good thinking for the buss-bar make !

[@michelsmith5610]

Hi, I'm Michel, I have done quite a bit of system installations of big battery strings, we were always told to use aluminum for the bus bars, have tested it out, where you have a starting point, of course if it was wire we used copper. thank you

[@ggw3829]

Greetings from Round Rock. The copper bus bars are definitely a good idea for longer reliability and better conductivity. If you are thinking about making more of these bus bars, you might consider cutting the pipe first with a pipe cutter, then flattening. Also another interesting test might be to try AC low pressure line. My understanding is the copper purity is higher and it is definitely easier to work with. Keep the great videos coming.

[@RevanCraft]

100% agree with the soft copper low pressure lines, very high purity standards.

[@fun_ghoul]

@@RevanCraft The purity of the copper means fuck all in practical terms. It's just easier to work because it's not annealed, for ease of installation.

[@rpbajb]

Interesting test, well executed. Those batteries are amazing!

[@richardlloydusa]

You are most welcome. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.

[@danielwilson2109]

I think you need to double up to prevent those batteries from dying, and parallel them. They actually cant handle the load. These cells should never drop really below 10v under load. I randomly round this video as im looking at lithium titanate ;)

[@chris-jb5ds]

I agree those cells are sagging bad. Plus i noticed the neg end of one of the cells is damaged and has been repaired.

[@johnmurphy5883]

great test and great how you don't know whats going to happen.

[@jagardina]

Copper becomes hard when you work it (deform it). It's called work hardening. You can soften it back up by heating it with a torch.

[@millray38]

You may be able to use only one layer of the copper buss bars since the conductivity is much better than steel.

[@richardlloydusa]

Yes, more than likely i could have used just one but I was concerned about them cracking under the weight of the cells as the copper is hardened and prone to cracking. Also I wanted to match the physical characteristics of the steel bars too. Thanks.

[@5riddikk]

It appears that as the cells get warmer from discharging the voltage drop diminishes. In Jehugas video it seemed somethin similar happened, as the batteries warmed up over the constant load test, the voltage increased. Id be interested in some temperature readings before and after the tests as well as the resultant voltage drops. 🤔

[@richardlloydusa]

LOL, you are going to make me do this ONE more time.... I will consider it as I am interested as well. Thanks.

[@richardlloydusa]

One thing to keep in mind is that as the engine warms up it is easier to turn over than it is when it's stone cold. Maybe we have two factors to consider. Thanks.

[@Poepad]

Consider a static load test, such as lights , motors, toaster oven, etc..

[@richardlloydusa]

Thanks.

[@cornfedproductions9773]

Really greats info! I would like to suggest a video on how to properly charge the cells. Maybe a constant current versus constant voltage pros and cons, and how a normal cars or trucks charging system may over time have some sort of negative affect on this set up with out using a BMS? I’m currently working on using these cells for my solar RV system and can use all the info I can get! Thanks!

[@richardlloydusa]

I appreciate your feedback. I will consider making a video on the above subject. Thank you.

[@tech29X]

Considering how thick these batteries are, instead of using 1/2" diameter copper pipe, you could use 3/4" copper pipe. After flattening the entire pipe, cut them in double the length of bus bar and fold them in half, then drill holes on them. Doing so would reduce individual pieces from 15 to just 5 and probably give even better load capacity. Just thinking out loud here :-)

[@james10739]

Your multimeter should have a max min option and that should give you good numbers since most multimeters are like 2000+ count

[@richardlloydusa]

I will check into that. Thank you for the suggestion. All the best.

[@JOHNMORIN100]

Wow nice test and job

[@samueljames9342]

Bear in mind, copper pipe is largely recycled copper and may not be pure, although most likely adequate for this purpose. Copper wire on the other hand is required (for consistency) to be made from pure copper.

[@anthonymarino4260]

THANKS FOR SHARING

[@SnowyOwlPrepper]

If one uses these batteries for long term, would there be less mechanical wear under temperature changes by using wires as opposed to solid bars?

[@700R4-f6k]

Are you planning to try aluminum bus bars next?

[@richardlloydusa]

I may head down to the hardware store and buy some aluminum but I think the resistance values fall in line with what has already been measured by the electrical engineering codes. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀

[@dpt4565]

If you don't have access to a good press and drill, you can instead buy copper strap. You can use good scissors or snippers to cut the copper strap. You can double it up to thicken. It's not too stiff, so you will need to add foam between each cell so they don't short against each other. I can post picture of how I constructed mine if anyone is interested.

[@richardlloydusa]

Thank you.

[@fun_ghoul]

Just to add to/clarify dpt4565's comment, copper strapping is like steel strapping for construction, but used in applications where they need the electrical properties (e.g. grounding water pipes). The link below is an example of the stuff I think they mean...it really is very convenient! www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/dahl-all-round-copper-pipe-strapping-0633643p.html

[@fun_ghoul]

Oh, and for short prevention on the tops of cells, you could use "liquid electrical tape" to supplant or supplement other methods. Cheers.

[@HandyC]

You could do a proper calculation for width / thickness requirement for 200amps!! Roughly 1.2 Amps / 1 Sq.mm of Copper So we could say if your 16mm copper pipe squashes to 20mm width and you stacked 2 of them together to get 20mmx3mm, that should be good for 225amps. Ish.

[@jeremyvasquez511]

Hi nice video plz make a video flatten copper bus bars thx

[@richardlloydusa]

Your interest is noted. I am considering it. Thanks.

[@richardlloydusa]

I made a video on making the copper bus bars here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIGUp4mYYt9jr8U Thanks.

[@tonymac96]

Good work...!!! I guess to avoid the voltage drop...you need two of those in parallel...hence you will have 400 Amps....At 9:26 you say a 7 % voltage drop ?? ....I will say more like 50 %... The voltage was at 14 when you cranked your engine..and the voltage drop to 7...Any way...would like to see if you can set the 2x4 arrangement...and do the test again. Keep the good work!!! Thanks.

[@richardlloydusa]

I will consider that for future videos. Thank you for watching, commenting and the valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.

[@tonymac96]

Thanks

[@Str8GasGenetics]

@@tonymac96 He was comparing the difference between the steel and buss bars lol 7% is way more accurate

[@TrunkThunderLithium]

Copper for the win!!!!

[@richardlloydusa]

Yes Sir! Thank you so much for commenting and watching. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀

[@volvo09]

Any guesses what these things original use was for? (Don't say battery packs!) judging by marks marks on mine it looks like it was in some sort of pack that vibrated a bit... Very unique cells.

[@richardlloydusa]

Looking at the Headway company site it does not look like they designed them for a "specific" purpose but these cells were harvested used, it's a mystery what from. Here is the Headway site: goo.gl/4zt79M perhaps there is a clue in there somewhere. BTW they make some monster 100AH cylindrical cells! Thanks.

[@browaruspierogus2182]

Hi, can you build a complete car battery out of 4 or 8 cells together with cheap BMS so we just plug it in instead of heavy acid box?

[@richardlloydusa]

I am sure it is possible. I have not considered the technical aspects of doing so though. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀

[@pulesjet]

Measure the Voltage Drop across the bus bar. LOL, Copper is a significantly better conductor then Steel.

[@richardlloydusa]

Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best

[@sbb526]

What does it mean when you say these batteries can handle 100amps or 200 amps, etc? For my car stereo it seems like i'd need 40ah, but the system pulls about 300amps+...what am i looking at to determine if it can handle that amperage?

[@richardlloydusa]

The cells are designed to handle a 200A draw. So if your stereo requires 200A to function then the cell can supply it. 40ah refers to the storage capacity of the cell. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀

[@wearemilesfromnowhere4630]

Copper tubing comes in three different wall thicknesses. K, L or M with K being the thickest. Most plumbing supply houses have it in 1/2".

[@richardlloydusa]

Thank you for watching, commenting and the great feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.

[@60842clegg]

could you get copper mounting screws and repeat the test

[@slemmon2000]

GREAT info thanks bro. I have been working with SUPER CAPACITORS, you think these are BETTER then the CAPs?

[@mortenmartinsen3018]

Hi! I would like to ask you if you like ever consider using aluminium bus bar for this project? Would been fun to compair such a result

[@richardlloydusa]

I may consider that for a future video. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀

[@james10739]

Ya aluminum would be a lot better than steel and easy to buy bar stock

[@brucetraudt1571]

maybe better with copper. aluminum extracts too much maken things loosen up vrs copper

[@maderightamerica3216]

Hi Richard, I'm new to this and I would like to know if the 200 Amp LifePO4 can be used in a solar generator. If not, can you either make a video on how to make the solar genertor or explain why not? Thank you sir.

[@clientesym]

what would happen if you add one more battery?

[@MasterDJRenn]

What are the screw size? M6?

[@standbyme6395]

working on my set but im using the ground wire from house wiring. balancing is a tedious process. but must be done.

[@richardlloydusa]

Thank you for watching, commenting and the valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best. 👍😀

[@thespiritof76..]

Little known fact copper and brass actually hardens and gets more brittle as it is worked

[@texasturkey3651]

since this is direct current would multi-strand copper cable carry current better

[@fun_ghoul]

You have it backwards, Tex. Skin effect is a thing for AC, not DC. In any case, you can use solid wire as long as there's enough copper there (e.g. the wires in your walls are solid copper).

[@skynetsworld]

hi Richard, good work. I wonder if copper screws would make another (although probably small) difference, and maybe you could try also how much the cold startup voltage would drop less with 8 cells instead of 4. I read, that a cell could be damaged by a drop to a Voltage lower than 2V, that would make it 8V for the whole starterbattery, but i'm not sure if a drop only for milliseconds is not a problem. With 8 cells, the cold startup voltage maybe won't go lower than 9V, 9.5V or even 10V!? what do you think? thanks

[@richardlloydusa]

You NEVER want to go below the recommended minimum discharge level as it will damage the cells. That's why it's best to use a BMS to stop that from ever happening or a protection circuit at least. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀

[@skynetsworld]

@@richardlloydusa hmnkay, then the 8 cell construction (you mentioned) seems to be the minimum requirement for a starterbattery!? Are you still considering building something like that with Headway cells (and making more videos about) or have you given up the idea? What battery management system/balancer would you choose, if any?

[@richardlloydusa]

These cells are now on limited availability from Alarmhookup on eBay and other sources are cost prohibitive so I have not been able to experiment with an 8 cell variant at this point. I think it would be possible to use these cells as a replacement with the correct circuitry. The cells could be isolated from the charging system directly (thinking diode here) and charged with an appropriate BMS, again this would be a personal preference on your part to meet your requirements. My concern on all of this is the harsh environment that the whole system would be subjected under the hood (heat, cold, water), the cost in time and money and the benefit gained in doing the work. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀

[@briankeith1007]

It's not the engine being cold it's about the amperage in the battery to start the car having four when if used to put 12, triple that pack and I guarantee your stuff faster.

[@zendesigns5602]

Is a balance circuit not needed for these batteries? To ensure the battery doesn't exceed maximum voltage?

[@richardlloydusa]

A battery management system (BMS) with a balancing circuit would be an optimal option for any battery system. I did not use one because my main objective for the video was to test the cells and their capabilities. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.

[@zendesigns5602]

@@richardlloydusa Thank you for your video. Very informative.

[@happyhomelesshomesteaders158]

We got 52° f tomorrow almost 70 oct. Froze everything in the garden

[@ideafromkurdistan5257]

This battry is type lithium ion?

[@happyhomelesshomesteaders158]

Does't mire metal cause mire resistance?

[@crazydiamonduk]

I require some expert advice. I am building a 12.8v battery using 4 x 38120 headway cells. This will be used inside a car powering my project. I would like the cells to be charged from the car battery/alternator but using low current. The BMS says 50A charge curre current, I was hoping for more 5A as can be plugged into the cigarette socket to charge or trickle charge the pack. This way I can also fit some protection like a resettable PPTC fuse so when the project load requires high current, the fuse will trip and only current from the 38120 pack will be used. Is this possible or does the BMS really require 50Amps? Thanks

[@FinsleysCustomCarAudio]

How many ah is those 4?

[@richardlloydusa]

They are 8Ah each. Thank you so much for commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀

[@Laurel-Crowned]

Nice! What do you think about using eight of these to replace two 12ah electric quad? Ps they're back in stock!

[@Poepad]

Do like Jehu does, add your camera equipment to your more section. I did not see a website, do you have a website or blog we can go to for more info and or send you money via paypal? Finally, there is a big discussion about using multi-strand wire for DC vs flat bar busses, car to comment. Maybe get a battery cable and hook to the batteries. Enjoy your videos. I have 2 hoverboard battery packs, waiting on the china boats for new connectors to use my gkids scooters.

[@stevelamperta865]

You cannot use this for accurate test results... Because if the engine takes a few more secounds to start that the time before this will drain battery further . its not a good test at all really. If you wanna see good test results use a load tester for the same amout of time each time. this will give you better accuracy .

[@texasturkey3651]

I need to make a 24v battery to use in an electric chair in place of 2 12v U1 AGM batteries--Do you have an idea how to make or buy a switch to cut off these batteries so they don't discharge so low they are damaged--live at canyon lake

[@SuperBrainAK]

have you seen the bus bars that EV components has? they are 0.39$ each so 2$ for 5, that would seem pretty worth it, there is a bit of shipping but getting proper plated busbars guaranteed to fit hassle free seems worth it to me. evcomponents.com/battery-accessories/headway-38120s-38140s-battery-connector.html

[@richardlloydusa]

But it does not state what the bar is made from. Thanks.

[@brucetraudt1571]

hello, i need help on this question; I am running a ft-450d ham radio that pulls 13.8 volts at 22 amps my question is, i want to run 8 Pack Headway 38120HP LifePO4 Battery Cells to operate the radio but have the battery pack connected to a bus bar that is fed by a 220 amp alternator that will be shared by 2 deep cycle batteries that will power other devices. when pulling power from the lithium battery pack the lithium battery pack might pull the charging juice from the deep cycle batteries because they are sharing the same bus bar and alternator is there a resistor that i can put in place to minimize this from happening and to draw more power from the lithium battery pack than its charging source without killing the lithium battery pack? it will almost be the same concept as my car battery mod with the lithium battery and supercapacitors.

[@douglundy5755]

so is this little assembly a 200 amp battery at 12 something volts?! nooooo. Now a starting battery is usually 65 to 80 or 100 amps in a very big battery. Of course this works but this cant be a 200 amp battery.

[@douglundy5755]

okay Im seeing 8 amps/per battery, thats more realistic. where does the 200 refer to?

[@richardlloydusa]

Doug thanks for asking, I did this video centuries ago, so I couldn't remember so I checked the video description for the links to the batteries and found that they were now expired, so I fixed them! Here are the links so that you may look for yourself at the specifications for each battery (paid links) ebay.us/UnlNxd and ebay.us/eKq3lP both sets have a maximum discharge rate of 200A!! Recommend continuous discharge rate: 200A. Pulse discharge rate(3 seconds): 400A Note how LONG they can do it for but hey, they can do it! I would have to think at 200A they could do at least 6 seconds. I may do some more videos on the Lipo's as I still have those and figured out how to balance charge them with a hobby LIPO charger. Thank you so much for commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀

[@voglandi]

Have you only tested to start the car or did you drive a few 100 km with the car the cells built in?

[@fun_ghoul]

It's not a hybrid, so who cares? Scheisser!

[@StellsBellz]

Would 16 of these cells be good for a 48v ebike setup?

[@OhMostBobulousOne]

I have the same question. Someone in the know please answer.

[@KonaChuck22]

These cells should give plenty of power for nearly every hub motor out tthere. Expect excellent acceleration. 16 of these cells would provide about 400wh of energy and about 30 miles of range assuming a mostly flat riding surface, conservative accelerations and around 12 wh/mile of energy use.

[@fun_ghoul]

@@OhMostBobulousOne I have a 16S pack with the 40152S cells, which are "only" rated for 150A (lol), but 15Ah capacity. I use it with a "1000W" front direct-drive hub motor and an Infineon/Xie Chang-type 12-FET controller. I'm 5'11" (~180cm) tall, weigh 245-260 pounds, carry up to 20 lbs. of cargo, and the ebike+battery is around 80 pounds, for a total vehicle weight of 360 pounds/165 kg (!). My range is just scratching 50 kilometres with "un-conservative" acceleration (e.g. 60+ km/h with pedalling), in moderately hilly Ottawa-Gatineau. Hope that helps (someone).

[@fun_ghoul]

@@KonaChuck22 Acceleration would have fuck all to do with your battery pack, unless it was incapable of supplying your controller's needs. The usual Headway BMSes (e.g. mine) do limit output to 30A, but even that's enough to yield the performance I outlined above. IOW, most people who want snappier acceleration need a ballsier controller.

[@fun_ghoul]

@@OhMostBobulousOne P.S. My previous pack was 36V/18Ah, made of 4 Ryobi 18V/9Ah packs. It had the same range as the Headway (which is to say that it was just cutting it for my usual round trip), albeit with a lower top speed of around 45 km/h. Also, it should be noted that in playing with the ebikes.ca motor simulator, I've seen that the range increases dramatically with lower weight, less aerodynamic drag and/or less road speed. If you're a fat guy who likes to go fast, expect to pay a lot or to pedal your last few miles unassisted, lol.

[@robertpolito6139]

Is ok to charge 4 lipo 4 batteries with a car battery charger?

[@mortenbecker-eriksen4665]

Yes and no. No, not LiPo but yes LiFe is quite ok to charge with the car charging system. The LiFe should max out around 14.7 V- 15.0 V and will never be fully charged by a car system. Because of this you really don't need balancing either. They selfbalance very well in a car. I have had 12 pcs in a 3p4s configuration LiFe 26650 cells in a demanding motorcycle for 3 years without a problem. No BMS, no balancing, but I did check the balance now and then but the difference in voltage were minimal.

[@abzaman77]

Can't find these anywhere.. Zz

[@pulesjet]

Copper WORK HARDENS ! It hardens up as you form it.

[@geraldgrogan]

whats the difference between a 'Step Down Voltage Regulator' and a 'DC Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator Buck Converter'?

[@richardlloydusa]

I don't believe there is any difference. It's marketing. Basically if the device steps down 12V DC voltage it will work. Both devices I looked at Ebay: goo.gl/SWXhCm and goo.gl/b3rQnt both do the same thing (step down and step up DC voltage) but are just marketed differently. If it fits your requirement and budget use it. Thanks.

[@geraldgrogan]

I hear the term 'buck converter' used often. Are all buck converters also 'step-down converters'? I'n my case, I'm not looking to convert from DC to AC voltage, I'm simply thinking I will need a step down from 48 (52) volts to 12 or 24 volts - depending on the project I'm working on. I'm confused where a 'buck converter' comes into play vs a 'step-down converters'

[@richardlloydusa]

Here is a link to a very detailed explanation of all the DC to DC terminology and technology: goo.gl/g4vdmX Thanks.

[@leemesenhimer2072]

After making just five copper jumpers, you could anneal them.

[@richardlloydusa]

Thank you. I like them hardened for my application. All the best.

[@ondrejtyc7578]

Good idea + copper screws. Resistance of hardened copper decreases about of 1/3 after annealing.

[@franklee9798]

Why would anyone use steel as an electrical conductor. Steel will oxidize unless it is plated. The resistivity and thermal expansion properties are bad for carrying electricity. Your setup will fail in about a month.

[@fun_ghoul]

Copper oxidizes too, numbnuts.

[@chuxxsss]

Copper will always win out as they a more conductive. Just to rise you stars mate.

[@richardlloydusa]

Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.

[@chuxxsss]

Richard Lloyd the cells are dear from china, they what 120 dollars Australian to deliver the cells.

[@imBriz]

@@chuxxsss $17 each here in america