Here's the Plan

[@schafer240]

Biggest handling upgrade you can do to a cx is bars, I'm currently running a 22mm front and a 14mm rear. Front is more than enough, rear I'll be going to a 24mm asr in the future for more neutral/oversteer feel, it's also a stiffer bar and has more settings than a progress. If you want to be cheap and do junkyard for now, 4 door tegs have the same 14mm rear bar as a gsr. All a sway bar does is multiplies your spring rate when it flexes side to side. Rough easy example, stiffer springs with a softer bar could be equal to softer springs and a smaller bar. They are directly related. As for components. Just get pci components, yes it's expensive, but so is buying parts twice. Also if you go the hardrace route, check out Megan as well, they both use the same manufacturer for their products other than the Megan are alot cheaper priced for the same product. The faster you head to spherical bearings, the better and happier you'll be.

[@spencersgarage]

Hardrace parts all the way. Quality parts that aren’t too crazy expensive. I went with full Hardrace suspension on my DC2, the quality and fitment is 👌🏼

[@Mugenkidd82]

Yup. Everything on my EG is HARDRACE. My sways are OEM Type R

[@schafer240]

Funny thing is look at the Megan equivalent... it's the same minus the sticker. I was surprised they used the same manufacturer too.

[@mdev8846]

You are right. Superpro parts is a good option too.

[@spoonfixer3387]

2000 ls integra has the 24mm front sway. Same size as itr.

[@joaquinsaez1027]

Hi Rob! I would buy Junkyard fornt and rear LCA with new polyurethane bushings, stock 24mm front sway bar and aftermarket rear swaybar

[@aw614]

I would just get the 24mm Integra bar at a junkyard. One of the things that people forget is that all 00-01 Integras had the 24mm bar, and all years of the GSR had it and the GS non VTEC had it. Should be easy to find in Florida, and even the 22mm front on the earlier LS integras should be ok to use. The ITR bar that is different in the JDM having a 25mm front bar. For the rear, I would just go aftermarket with the complete package of the brace and bar.

[@the710experiment84]

If you're ever in the Athens Georgia area I've got a few OE dc2/db8 front and rear swaybars, lower control arms and miscellaneous parts that are in good condition.

[@gersonreyes9095]

I’d recommend a dc2 front sway bar. 22mm(HMO) in socal has them probably get it shipped to you with Acura Lca’s with hard race swat bar links. And ASR REAR!

[@beemertekm3276]

I've got hard race suspension on my eg and love it

[@thebudgettrackjunkie]

I'm like you, shopping for both OEM and aftermarket and comparing. In the end price vs quality vs purpose all factor in. I only want to purchase a part right the first time.

[@dezertdime1072]

hey just some outsider view points most people who race fwd cars run a larger rear sway bar and the smallest front sway bar or no sway bar possible like the crx for example you could run a asr 24mm rear bar and a crx hf front 17mm hollow sway bar the reason being its a fwd your front tires are the drive tires you want them independent and moving on there own you want compliance not tied together like a sway bar would do best option i would see is the asr rear kit and replace your front bushing with poly based off your numbers should be roughly 440ish a decent middle ground

[@Busydadgarage717]

I feel like going with the 1st or 2nd option would be best. Gives you sway bars and poly bushings. The aftermarket is great, but you are not going to see the amount of benefit for the price. Plus, with the money you save, you can set it aside for other mods.

[@RefineMovement]

Hmmm those are good points too!

[@tedsommer]

You need to hit up HMO for honda stuff. There's a 24mm dc2 front sway bar for $40. I bought mine there for under $100 because it came with endlinks. My suspension setup is doing quite well. I used hardrace F & R lower control arms. My car definitely felt more stable with sharper driver feedback. I bought a package deal for the rear bar from JHP. I think in total it was close to $400, but it came with the rear swaybar brace, adj 24mm rear bar and spherical endlinks.

[@danino66]

If you are addicted to racing like I am….. even if it’s no professionally….. go all aftermarket new…..1000$… It’s easier mentally, less work researching pressing cleaning parts…. Time is money and obviously quality will be better…. Lighter, stronger. Just a peace of mind and the difference in driving will be amazing!!.. Junkyard or oem route might let you hungry for more quickly…. Aftermarket route will challenge you to learn the car and adapt to those new parts and new feeling of the car.

[@RefineMovement]

Great points David, thank you!

[@HydeMyJekyll]

I've never been in a position to afford taking my EG hatch to the track- heck, I've never even been able to afford to buy any new parts for it at all aside from tires every year or so. I have looked a lot at what I would like to do to it, and I really do like the HardRace items as well as PCI Racing. As far as the inside wheel unloading... like I said, I've never been to a track, but I've got years of experience as a "spirited driver" on some pretty sweet mountain backroads. If you give a bit of an extra flick of the wheel on turn-in and induce a bit of lift-off oversteer, it's easy to get a wheel unweighted and the car will begin to rotate very easy. A bit of countersteer pressure on the wheel and the car will basically lock itself into that position and maintain the highest possible speed through the turn. At that point you can steer with the throttle- a bit more gas to push it wide, a bit less to pull it tighter. It would be nice to keep all 4 on the ground though, for more grip and faster cornering speeds! I'd go light on the rear sway bar, a bit stiffer up front.

[@RefineMovement]

I appreciate your feedback! I'm all about trying to work with what I have and focus on the driver mod as you describe before adding parts. That's why I've gone this long with no sway bars or any major upgrades.

[@jarodwhiting3676]

Personally I would get dc2 rear lcas, sway bar, mounting brackets and end links. For the front I wouldn't go huge the sway bar (perhaps none) because you'll get a lot of "push" or under steer in corners. Look into honed developmens for a rear roll center correction kit, it would pair nice with the integra rear bar.

[@notone4029]

My motto is do the job ONLY once!! Not 2-3 times for the same parts. Namebrand/aftermarket ALL the WAY!! You obviously love the car and are in it for the long haul . Like many of us. So DONT cheap out with knockoff junk. Your build though, SO.

[@heavenasura]

My dear Refine Movement channel , according to the experience of myself and my fellas , perhaps you should not sort parts by where they from or made , the priority is to apply to your preference or the track you run most often ! More speed and greater grip make the inner tyre lift more when cornering , but a lot of alignments can help , such as dampening / camber / ride height ... etc , after trying all out these free adjustments , then what size of sway bar would be sufficient ? You are the only one who knows ! What kind of bushing suits your style or can survive longer to save some bucks ? A lot of info have been shown for decades ! If the parts you need can be found in junkyard , great , go with it ; if not, of course , get aftermarket stuff , brand new or usable second hand , your choice ! When speaking of modifications , they are all experiments and change all the time while circumstance got different ! if you really can't decide which sway bars you want , just start with the cheapest ones , they will improve the performance anyway , better than nothing , after that , we will find out our taste ! No intention of suggesting you to piss money on same shit , but we all know , most of parts on the car now will be replaced couple of times in da future unless we realize what 's the best combo for ourselves or stop chasing the seconds with this platform ! So listen carelessly to people who tell you what should buy , focus on how other people drive (on the track or the video ) , copy their configuration , and maybe the procurement problems will be solved ! Sorry for not offering good and specific answers and wish you the best ~~~! PS. One more thing i must say and you have probably known , our EG has notorious weak rear subframe ! For long term safety of the chassis , while installing the sway bar , it' would be great to reinforce the subframe as well !

[@Brady_H]

I’m running spoon coilovers right now with stock integra front and rear sway bars on my eg coupe, I’m gonna hold out and see how well it handles before going crazy (This is a new build)

[@hondajack8049]

Rule of thumb fwd rear sway bar upgrade Rwd front bar upgrade that why there's heaps more rear sway bars available Always try Rock auto for ex rear standard Lcas they had Moog ones there $60 a pop I'm about 5k aud in my suspension MCA red coilovers Hard race bushed front lcas Function 7 rear Lcas ASR rear brace +24mm sway bar Skunk 2 upper control arms Skunk 2 rear camber arms Skunk 2 front and rear strut braces Whiteline B and C pillar braces Best bang for buck was the rear ASR brace and bar stiffened my car up and kept it super flat in the corners

[@RefineMovement]

Great input, thank you! Good 'ol Rock Auto haha. I got my full size Integra radiator from them. Nice list of suspension parts you've got.

[@wallysalem5373]

I agree that if you can find an ITR sway bar, you should do that. If not, I would use Progress Tech front and rear sway bar. As for rear lower control arms, I use the PCI ones.

[@RefineMovement]

Thanks for your input!

[@mdev8846]

Superpro parts are a good option. Hight quality.

[@comet30265]

Awesome another video from you guys lets gooooo!!!

[@r33gtrsly]

I’d go aftermarket it’ll save u more in the long run

[@andrewlopez8110]

Spray paint the hard race arms if you don’t like it, or get them powder coated🤷🏽‍♂️

[@RefineMovement]

haha

[@soaringfilms3656]

I’d go aftermarket for rear sway bar and rear control arms (unfortunately oem ones with end link holes are impossible to find and rear sway bars are hard to find). For fronts you could get away with new oem style if you don’t care about performance may save a few bucks. But ultimately since you are gonna be down there putting in the work installing new parts I’d go all aftermarket so you don’t have to ever worry about wanting performance oriented parts if down the line u decide you don’t like oem.

[@RefineMovement]

Good point that it's hard to find those oem pieces.

[@schafer240]

@@RefineMovement All ek rear arms came with sway bar holes unlike the eg, and can be used on the eg/dc

[@danhendershot8511]

I found a factory rear sway bar at the junkyard last week on an EX sedan and it is only 13 mm. Just a heads up. Going back this weekend for the rear disc brake trailing arms and a few other odds and ends for my sedan project

[@RefineMovement]

Gotta love the junkyard. But yeah, thanks for the heads up. I actually have a factory rear bar on my EK and yeah, because its so thin compared to aftermarket bars it doesn't even require the rear subframe brace. I have no sway bars at the moment though so even a 13mm would likely yield a difference

[@aw614]

@@RefineMovement The 13/14mm bars didn't really make a difference on my EK Coupe that came with the 22mm front. The itr bar I had on my integra went on it. It isn't worth the time or money to install one of the smaller bars IMO.

[@danhendershot8511]

I'm installing mine with all polyurethane bushings and mounts, and on a lighter car than it came off off and with a decent set of struts and lowering springs it should give the rear end just the right amount of stiffness without making it want to rotate or slide the rear out in fast sharp turns. I'm using a larger front sway bar off an EK sedan, I think it was an EX as well, and with the poly bushings and mounts and a significantly lighter chassis I should get the desired effect on the street. Hoping to one day take one of my cars to a track day, but until then I'll get my seat time delivering and refining them in my own way. Good luck with your track EG!

[@tannerschneider8492]

I’ll donate you my dc2 type r sway bars!

[@RefineMovement]

That's a pretty cool offer! Sell those though if you don't need them man. They go for a pretty penny now apparently

[@RevHighDriveHappy]

Just buy after market upgraded parts so you dont have to spend the money twice when you want to upgrade in the future

[@RefineMovement]

Hmm that makes sense from a money standpoint. I don't mind spending money though if it's for the sake of learning through different parts

[@Joliva124]

It's been a while I haven't watched your videos but when I do get the chance to watch your videos they are always awesome to watch I just made my first video of my Honda Civic coupe 2000 it's not the best video, but I really want to do more thing's to my civic project! keep up the good work I been a subscriber since 2017 and on Instagram as well! 😊

[@KeepinItReal890]

fuck yeah brother

[@miniaddict4534]

Maybe I should sell my Mini and get a Honda for a track car. A sway bar costs around $200-$300 for just one.

[@deesautohouse367]

Ahhh I just recycled my rear OEM integra swaybar bc I figured it was worthless. I totally would have given you that if I'd seen this first :/

[@RefineMovement]

I appreciate the thought anyway!

[@ice9dragon]

Wait, why don't you have a front sway bar to begin with? 😮

[@RefineMovement]

Car is a CX so it literally came with nothing from factory