High Temperature All Metal Bi-metal Hot End Upgrade Ender 3

[@jjclarkson3261]

Hi Chuck. You missed an important step: Reset your Z-offset (Nozzle offset from probe). Since nozzles will not always end up in the exact same position, it is a very important to prevent damage and have an accurate offset. Great video! Much more help than the Slice Engineering Q-code

[@dugy40]

Also run pid

[@dugy40]

I’ve heard you should season this. What say ye?

[@andycrighto3740]

What about e steps?

[@bek8758]

You are a life saver chep. On this summer i started printing since then you have been great tutor. Thank you so much Mr.Chep

[@melvin5312]

I have this one on my printer for about 200 hours, and its great so far. Nice to see you recommending it.

[@stuartpollock84]

This was possibly the single best upgrade I made to my Ender 3s. I absolutely hate the design having the ptfe tube butt up to the nozzle, it caused so many issues. As soon as I swapped to these those issues have completely disappeared.

[@dangerous8333]

That was probably a different problem. Since most people are printing with Bowden tubes perfectly fine. I've had zero issues with my Bowden tube. Even before I upgraded it to a Capricorn tube. Only reason I'm getting the all metal hot end is to print at higher temps.

[@FallOfInsanity]

Do you find that it helps prevent the gap clogs? Or does it still need to be super flush?

[@garylangford6755]

What issues did ir solve?

[@atistang]

@@dangerous8333 I wouldn't say that's the only reason. Changing nozzles is easier too since you don't have to go through extra steps to ensure the PTFE tube is butted up against the nozzle.

[@burgerdad5681]

what retraction settings do you use now?

[@rpg01x]

Let me start by saying I have been running straight Capricorn tubing and have never had a failed print due to a clogged nozzle. I thought I needed this so I bought the Slice heat break and installed it yesterday. Used my standard slicer settings in Cura and the print failed due to a clogged nozzle in about an hour. Today I changed the retraction distance and minimum extrusion distance window to 3mm. Default is 5mm. The print made it several hours but failed again due to a clogged nozzle. The Slice heat break was removed and I am back to printing with the original set up. Wished I would have read more of the reviews before I bought this. Can't wait for my Prusa MK3S+ to get here.

[@FilamentFriday]

Did you verify the nozzle and heat break had no gap between them? That’s usually the issue.

[@rpg01x]

@@FilamentFriday Yes. I heated the hot end up, cleaned out the threads by threading the nozzle and head break in and out. I made sure that the nozzle and the end of heat break had solid contact. Thanks for all of your content CHEP.

[@cosmefulanito5933]

@@FilamentFriday Bi metal do not work ok with PLA and bowden setups.

[@Bellacera2010]

I've bought an Ender a year ago. Just few months ago I learned differences between shape, walls, density etc... You're my new Guru!

[@vanloggins]

I made the mistake of buying the mellow bi-metal heatbreak, their design is not great because they don't have it setup so you can easily slot your filament down into the tip of it, so it winds up jamming up whenever I try to swap out my filament on my Ender 3. The only solution that even remotely has worked for me was to take the ptfe tube out of the coupler going down into the hot end, feeding the filament through and then hitting it with a lighter to soften up the tip so I could stretch it to a fine point, which I am then able to fit down into the tube inside the heatbreak. I'm tired of following this process so I just ordered the copperhead c-e bimetal heat break based on your recommendation Chuck. Thanks for posting great informative videos to help folks out.

[@funddesexgluma]

Hi Chuck, thanks for making this video, after watching this I concluded the heat break was a better option for me than going with an all-metal hot end. I did run into a few issues with the installation on my Ender 3 Pro, related to the heat break being longer than the stock one and pushing the nozzle lower; sharing in case others are in the same position: - The M3x16 bolts that go through the bottom of the hot block and into the heat sink are now too short - I asked Slice about this and they recommend just using the grub screw to attach the hot block to the rest of the assembly - I had to shim my CR Touch with a few washers between it and the bracket, because the nozzle was now below the probe - The part fan is now blocked by the hot block, so I quickly remixed a longer shroud to account for it; it's part - 369993 on Printables

[@LargeKid]

What kind of washers did you use and how many? I am running into that issue now.

[@lff12]

Great to see this reviewed. I liked it a lot after installation, it really improved experience with PETG, Colorfabb NGEN etc, but I struggled to get the ideal retraction. In the end e3d were doing a sale on Titan extruders, so I turned my ender max into direct drive, and changed retraction to 1mm and tuned the esteps manually. This seems to have improved things a lot - literally zero stringing, no artefacts on Benchys etc. And PETG still printing great.

[@rbrdly]

Shipping to Aus was far too expensive, 👎but Slice helped me find a local retailer. Good service 👍

[@JamesThompson-xl4yu]

I use the same finger ratchet you use. Good info and this will also work for ender 3 v3 se.

[@svdworkis]

i've had some frustration with this heatbreak clogging on my ender3. it works awesome if you make no mistakes and operate your printer flawlessly. but certain common mistakes seem to easily clog it - filament runout, or leaving the heat on for awhile after swapping filament, or leaving the heat on if you left it for a second to warm up while you do another task, or even if you leave the heat on for a bit to re-level. even with good thermal pasting and the heatbreak fan running the whole time. these are all things that happen to me at least once in awhile, and recovery is fairly laborious... a complete hotend disassembly, and possibly a ruined heatbreak. i tried clearing the clog by heating to 260 for awhile and trying to push the clog out with a 1.5mm allen key, or an accupuncture needle from the nozzle side, and it just wouldn't budge. as a last ditch i disassembled, removed the heat break, and torched it and then finally was able to remove the pla clog. heh the bimetal kinda works TOO good. i may have ruined it by torching... but so far it seems to be printing ok again. i've read about others having clogging issues with this heatbreak also. i wonder if this is what inspired your recent heat creep video. i know you have had a lot of issues with the design with ptfe down to the nozzle, but frankly so far this bimetal thing has caused more show-stopping issues for me than ptfe-to-nozzle ever did, and i'll probably go back to that (or upgrade to a v6 hotend). it might be that the printer i use this in is kinda full time pla, i don't really do petg or abs on it... perhaps those are not as finicky with this heatbreak, which is kinda counter-intuitive.

[@losangelesrccrawlers3738]

Same, more issues after installation then before with stock setup

[@svdworkis]

@@losangelesrccrawlers3738 it hasn’t happened in awhile. maybe i’ve not made any mistakes in months (seems unlikely). i think i heard heatbreaks can be take some run-in to season like some people say with their build plate (i’ve never really studied but i’ve heard some build surfaces work better after some use)

[@Sambo726]

Works great. Just don't forget to adjust your retraction!!!! I was banging my head trying to figure out why I was getting stringing, clogs, and binding,. Duhhhhhh the filament is not as deep inside hot end anymore. I had to drop my retraction down to 3 from 5.5 to get it to start acting right to be able to do a heat tower then retraction tower.

[@papyro6830]

Two weeks with a filament oiler installed and you will never have a problem again,I almost bought the internet BS till I tried it and was blown away. I went from constant jams,and failed prints to never having a malfunction since. Just try it and thank me later

[@FilamentFriday]

Already showed that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXiaiJhuaLJoncU

[@AndyDillbeck]

I put one on yesterday and it does seem to help a whole lot. One thing I noticed was blobs of what kind of looks like burned oil and plastic on the print. It didn't seem to really hurt the quality at all, it just looks unclean. Possibly I put a little too much oil on the sponge, or maybe I need to run it hotter until the tube is fully cured? If you have a tip on that I would be grateful. I'm already much more happy with it than I was 2 days ago when I almost switched back to the stock tube, before I saw your tip.

[@DwellerDesert]

Chuck, love all your Friday episodes. After watching this one, I went ahead with a hot end upgrade. Now a couple of frustrating weeks later, I think I am about the same print quality I had with a PTFE tube to the nozzle. I've watched other all metal hot end upgrade videos. It'd be nice if anyone mentioned potential issues with all metal hot end. Like stringing, blobs, and clogs. Cause it's been a pain. My 2 cents. You can leave them on the Take a penny, Leave a penny jar.

[@FilamentFriday]

I’ve had none of those issues. Mine printed better right from the start. Same profile.

[@frits183]

I have the same problem! Do you have a solution 🤔

[@ShahriarFarkhan]

Thank you for this! I just installed one last night and this video helped sell me on it. Your instructions helped because I couldn't find any on Slice's website, LOL I just found your video on the ABS corners. I'm about to try printing that for the first time.

[@gillyboy1566]

Thank you very much for more tips they are genuinely appreciated a fan from the UK

[@Greggflynn]

Another mod for my Ender 3s thanks to CHEP. I added this on my Ender 3 with the BGM style direct drive and so far so good. I’ll be ordering a second one for other Ender 3, and probably convert that one to direct drive as well (I had the parts for nearly a year but have been too busy printing to stop and upgrade it). Thanks for all your great videos and profiles!

[@damondarnell]

Hello Everyone Great Video CHEP I just did this upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro run my first print with the upgrade and it looking great NOTE BLTOUCH USERS RESET AND ADJUSTS YOUR Z-OFFSET that is all thanks again for the great video I will be doing with to my NON PRO Ender 3 tomorrow.

[@jordanfunk661]

Love chep, but can’t support Slice Engineering as a company. They didn’t deserve their patent on the mosquito and they have gone after small companies (like so small that they are operating out of their garage) for selling similar products.

[@Ray-zc3ih]

I used the bi metal heat break from TH3D and hate it. It was shorter than the original ender 3 and cause my parts cooling fan to hand below the nozzle even though that was the one for the ender 3. I ended up going back to stock. I may give this slice engineering one a try.

[@chadblows]

I just installed this upgrade last night. With the stock heat break I was able to peak at 9.62 mm³/s flow rate and now I'm reliably at 16.84 mm³/s. The main mod I did was mounting the stock Ender 3 extruder with the SpeedDrive direct drive mount on thingiverse.

[@lynxxlynxx]

I ordered one yesterday before watching this video. I noticed some strange stringing I never had in my past prints. I removed the fan cover and a big petg blob was all over the hotend! After removing the goo and disassembling the complete hotend, I found that the original heatbreak was cracked. Ordered a new hotend and a bi-metal heatbreak. Didn't want to go for an all metal hotend from micro swiss. The original fullfills all my needs and I think it will not give me more benefits.

[@jeffaltavilla6261]

Thanks Chuck, just ordered one today from Slice Engineering

[@ajwillay6888]

This is a good option.. however, you'll need to make some adjustments if you have Auto bed leveling on your device. I have an ender pro-3 with a CR touch and I had some nozzle height issues with regards to this heat break. The reason for that is the stock heat sink that comes from creality... It's drilled specifically for the heat break that came WITH the printer. The bi-metal one in chep's video is longer at the top portion than the stock one. Thus it succor further out of the heat sink, thus lowering the height of your nozzle More than the machine can allow. this causes an issue because the leveling probe doesn't get our far enough below the nozzle when it's deployed. Thus, whenever you are leveling the bed, the nozzle digs in to your bed. Correcting the z offset will make it PRINT at the right level... It will cause damage to your bed when you level the whole thing. So just keep that in mind when you're making this upgrade. If you don't have auto bed leveling, it's plug and play and level your bed the old fashioned way with a piece of paper... But if you're using a CR touch, you'll need to make some adjustments to the heat sink drilling it out or or buy an aftermarket heat sink with hunting holes in a different position. How this helps somebody!

[@cache4pat]

I ran into this problem just changing nozzles from 0.4 mm to 0.2mm. Amazon 13mm nozzles do not fit into my Ender5 stock heatbreak, and thus hang lower. Changing the Z OffSet is a must; or the nozzle will dig into the bed. My offset had to change from -1.358 to -0.615, to allow for the Amazon Nozzles. But all works well, after the Z Offset us adjusted.

[@stevenc485]

I just did this mod to me Ender 3 V2 and let me tell you it was not easy to unscrew the stock heat break from the hot end. I had the hot end set up like you in vice grips, but even when heated to 240C I couldn't budge it with needle nose pliers. The stock heat break seems like hardened steel. Finally was able to remove it with a small pipe wrench lol.

[@pantherpigeon3048]

ahh good so its not just me. who cant undo it

[@larrychaffin1208]

I see no mention of retraction distance or speed with adding this new heat break. Can you please update with info on if the standard retraction 6.5mm is too much or not. Or if it need to be reduced.

[@stevehutchesson1321]

This mod works great on my Ender 3 Max. Flow rate improved, reliability went up and happily prints modified PLA (PLA Plus) at 230c. Far easier to remove filament when changing colours, with the heat block at 200c, just cut the old filament before the run out sensor and you can easily pull it out by hand. With the original setup, I had to use a big pair of pliers. After this mod, I have not had to change a bowden tube and can happily use the white teflon with no problems. CAn also run lower retraction on PLA/PLA plus. Higher temperature printing and Capricorn tubing coming soon. Great review, thanks for doing it. 👍

[@anotherdave5107]

Teflon at what temp?

[@damondarnell]

Hello Everyone Great Video CHEP I did this upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro running prints with the upgrade and they looking great NOTE BLTOUCH USERS RESET AND ADJUSTS YOUR Z-OFFSET I personally also readjusted my E-Step also again great video CHEP

[@damondarnell]

​@@AkiraFurball Wow. lol Well first off I said I personally readjusted my E-Step I didn't say that it was 100% needed. I am glad that you seem to be able to use the defaults on your creality printers but with the changes I have personally made to include the one in the video I personally decided to run some calibration test after making this upgrade and came the personally decision that I needed to adjust my E-Step because I personally saw a change in how much easier and smoother the extruder was able to push the filament through after this upgrade. I would be very interested in CHEP thoughts on this.

[@cache4pat]

Thank you for this addition, for my adventure into using PETG. And, who knows, I might get brave and try ABS. I have functional parts tgat I made in PLA, and they did not 'weather well'; so I am hoping a material change will improve those.

[@avejst]

What a great application, and simple upgrade 👍. Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀

[@90sarcadefighter5]

Hey Chep. New to 3d printing and new to the channel which is fantastic I must add. Your descriptions and walkthroughs are perfect. I've just purchased one of these for my newly acquired CR10s pro v2, and, just now have purchased a micro Swiss nozzle to accompany it. I hope it'll be a good combo which will minimise clogs amd the such. Keep up the good work 👏

[@FilamentFriday]

I think you’ll like the heat break. As far as the nozzle, I’m not sold on it. And I suspect you’ll have to run it hotter than brass.

[@scottbroady7640]

I'm running a titanium version of the heat break on mine. I took a chance on it and it works great. One of the draw backs is I have to do a cold pull after every print otherwise it will jam the next print if it cools down

[@infiniteefpv]

That means ur heat break ain't working very well lol

[@haysoos123]

This is why you want to avoid buying cheap heat breaks. It's one of the most critical parts of the machine, and it has to be machined really well and be designed properly. Either that or hotend cooling situation is not very good. Having to do a cold pull every print isn't a sign of a properly working hotend.

[@ILEFTCAPS0N]

Couldn't you just modify your gcode so at the end of each print it retracts a lot, and at the start of a print it advances an equal amount?

[@lakitu6422]

If you screw it on just right you can use it with bl touch. I screwed the heatbreak so it was flush with the heatblock but I would recommend going 1/2 or 1/4 turns back from it to make more room. I was left with .5mm z offset. As long as you put the bed clips in strategic spots (if you have the low profile ones to go with the creality glass bed). If you don't check the bed clips you can have the print hit them causing G112 error.

[@24631]

My ptfe tube was shot too so change it to capricorn tubing and install my bltouch to 🙂

@CHEP, why do you install the nozzle first??? This is not how the manufacturer's (Slice Engineering) instruction describe and this is also error prone. The proper way is to screw in the heatbreak first, until the top of the lower thread of the heatbreak are flush with the top of the heatblock. This ensures that the heatbreak is screwed-in deep enough that the MK8 nozzle *will* bump into it prior the MK8 nozzle shoulder bumps to the bottom of the heatblock...

[@erklid2882]

I knew this could be possible Thanks for confirming this...sir CHEP

[@borisgraell]

I'm definitely going to upgrade my hotend with this, it's a lowcost alternative to an all metal hot end such as the microswiss, but keeping it almost stock.

[@themanunleashed]

I installed one on my ender 3. It's a great upgrade. If I get a clog, I can normally pull the filament out while it's still hot without fully cleaning it out. Worth the money.

[@MCsCreations]

Oh... Pretty impressive indeed, Chuck! 😃 Thanks a lot! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@vitelliu5]

thank you so much for this, I've been looking for any information on the slice engineering system on the Ender 3 v2 but haven't had any luck finding good information on it.

[@papyro6830]

Online experts say a filament oiler is BS and a bandaid to improper assembly of your hotend. I disagree greatly, every jam,plug,and issue they create magically vanish with one installed. And after two weeks you can throw it away because it won't need it anymore. They need seasoned just like a cast iron skillet,its crazy easy and suddenly none of these issues happen at all.

[@FilamentFriday]

I’ve said that before: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXiaiJhuaLJoncU

[@24631]

It cost me 57$ cad for montreal Canada I cant wait to install it on my creality ender max that is clog after a 3 weeks of printing 😁

[@gasparigi]

1:50 lock the end of your filament to prevent tangle in future printings.

[@NaterNorris]

I have to say, thermal paste works. Had constant clogging on my cr10 v2. Disassembled it a few times trying to figure out what was wrong and then it came to me and I put some paste on it and bam worked waay better after. Hasn't clogged since I did that and added the chep fix with the partial ptfe tube.

[@VinnyBagODoughnuts]

Makes me want to pull the trigger on the Aguila. I currently have an Anet AM8 with a genuine E3DV6.

[@rp479]

Aquila with the new Alex jyers firmware is amazing.

[@kei2142]

If the slice engineering is too expensive a all metal throat can be had from the usual Chinese supplier for maybe 8 bucks a piece. I deal with clogging by burning cooking oil inside the filament path before installing it.

[@zajecar2420]

What about trianglelab one?

[@tay802hall]

Love your videos and that is going to be next on my Ender 3 v2.

[@FilamentFriday]

You’ll like it. Use the link for discount.

[@zve3332]

How did you increase the max temp? I assume it is capable of higher temps now?

[@peterwolfik5827]

How to change the printers max-out temperature after installing this heartbreak? In the firmware?

[@marks47]

You're tempting me to try ABS again... Bad man!

[@eatthecheese9713]

Is this a replacement for an all metal hotend to do nylon?

[@kkuenzel56]

I bought the Slice Engineering heat break after seeing this video. I tried it right away and my print quality dropped considerably. I went back to stock Creality setup and the print quality was back up to the quality I expected. Yesterday, I had to replace me fan motor so I decided to try it again while I had it apart. I put the Slice heat break in with a brand new Microswiss M2 nozzle that I bought at MRRF this year and reassembled it and again it prints like crap. I had re-leveled the bed. Tried slicing a quick print in the latest Cura and Simplify 3D and 2 different rolls of PLA filament. For some reason, whenever I stray away from the stock Creality setup, print quality goes down the toilet. Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[@ShadeDead16]

You are a hero! :) Always watch your videos!

[@Medievalfan94]

Printed PETG at 230°C for a few hours daily for a week and noticed the extruder starting to skip steps, the infamous clicking issue on Ender 3 style printers. I pulled out the PTFE liner and it was burned severly and obviously was on the best way to clog up completely. Now I ordered the Bi-Metal heatbrake from Slice Engineering to cheaply convert to an all metal hotend and I will see if this eliminates this problem.

[@FilamentFriday]

It will

[@mwhiten100]

The heating block for this has dimensions that I can't match to any silicone socks in the marketplace. Why didn't they use the standard heating block? Seems the only way to get a silicone sock for this is to buy another hotend kit.

[@someramdomguy99]

Can you do a video on putting a ender 3 v2 in a encloser? I’m worried about the power supply getting to hot. I have no idea how to relocate it outside of the encloser

[@DeltaruinsX-o]

What heat sink is that because the one I have doesn’t fit the heat break

[@facelessfan]

Will this work with the Creality Spider 3.0 Pro All Metal Hotend

[@JoeMalovich]

I did this and am having endless heat creep jams where the filament slows down but doesn't stop all the way leading to underextrusion. I've done everything I can think of and research about to stop this from happening.

[@FilamentFriday]

Check your fan for failure( spinning too slow)

[@JoeMalovich]

@@FilamentFriday I had replaced the fan with a new one from creality (24V) as the old one had developed bad bearings. I have replaced my part cooling solution with the thingiverse thing# 3468243 sans fan guard but the problem persisted before changing the cooling. I also have the dual gear extruder (tuned e-steps), new ptfe tubing, and a hardened nozzle for abrasives. Hotend temperatures remain steady so it's not a PID issue and I used thermal paste between the heatsink and the cold end of the heatbreak. I have also tried setting retractions to 1mm without improvement. I am able to manually push filament out past the section where it swells up in the heatsink so I know i'm not dealing with swollen and stuck filament at the beginning of a print. No swarf clogs either. I have tried PLA and PETG from different brands. When I start the printer after a failed print and manually extrude it takes a 20-30 seconds of extrusion and stepper slip (not extruder slip) to clear the swollen section of filament from the cold section before the filament flows smoothly again. Yes I am using the slice engineering heatbreak you link to.

[@frits183]

Do you have a solution 🤔 i have the same problem 😟

[@JoeMalovich]

@@frits183 I just gave up on that solution and upgraded to a Hemera Revo. It is by nature all metal and they will soon be releasing hardened nozzles for abrasives too.

[@jesseburson]

I can't use capricorn. Filament always seems to not go through it well. Ends up clogging at the end of PTFE

[@jager9633]

Man I've been having a lot of problems with this thing. I I just can't get through a full PLA print without a clunking extruder and clogged nozzle. I'm pretty confident I installed it correctly but I think my base model ender 3 fan setup just isn't cutting it. I set my nozzle to 210C and used a meat thermometer (not sure how accurate this is in a hot end) and measured 52C where the Bowden tube ends and over 60C in the narrow tube going to the heat block. Manually pointing a 5015 fan at the hot end lowered these temps 15-17C. I'm also aware that retraction tuning is pretty important in metal hot ends, but my benchy with only 1.5mm of retraction started clunking an hour in. This was at only 185C. If anyone has suggestions or a similar experience with the base model Ender 3 and this part I'd love to hear about it. I have a supposedly better hot end fan coming tomorrow. I do believe this is a well engineered, well built component but I'm about ready to ditch it for the stock setup with a capricorn tube. I'll edit this comment if I can get it working. EDIT: Well, I hit a major SNAFU. The new fan performed the same as stock so I decided to rebuild the hot end and make sure I used enough thermal paste around the heat break. I managed to break the nozzle with the copperhead still attached, leaving my $30 heat break fixed to a useless heat block. I might try to extract the nozzle but I'm leaning toward just throwing my Ender into the nearest river.

[@FilamentFriday]

Sounds like a bad fan. It should get that hot. The 5015 fan kinda proved your theory.

[@PantherU]

How the hell did you have the hand strength to screw that new heat break in by hand?!?!!

[@garylangford6755]

Just the video i needed!

[@potteryjoe]

Ugh. This reminded me I need to swap out the ptfe tube on my kossel. Probably why it's starting to look like it's under extruding

[@BigDan1190]

100% the best first upgrade you could do to these printers. Probably the most common issue new users have is clogs because the PTFE isn't sealed well against the nozzle, an all metal heatbreak solves this issue.

[@jjclarkson3261]

FYI. The link lands on a page WITHOUTH just the heatbreak. I think they are trying to upsell through confusion. Might be a conversation you want to have with them ;)

[@FilamentFriday]

Which link did you choose? There is one for the heatbreak alone and another for all products.

[@barenekid9695]

Interesting thanks. Slice Unit may be decent but at ~40$ . I'm NOT willing to find out Besides, Titanium is a decent thermal insulator in itself. So a one piece Ti throat is going to be surprisingly good. IMO there is only v small advantage to going to a multi metal contraption, certainly so at triple the price. And if a decently polished Inner tube is the issue.. then a half hours DIY work can produce a mirror finish.

[@TheAnoniemo]

How would you go about polishing the inside of the tube?

[@TheBarrelDoesGaming]

Fun fact, mirror finish is actually not desirable, E3D Found that filament won't be able to properly glide along a perfectly smooth surface and their heatbreaks have engineered roughness. But yes, a one-piece Ti heatbreak is actually really, really good.

[@GoToTheGymPlz]

Dude my heartbreak screw is so stripped I don’t know what to do:( plz help

[@VinnyBagODoughnuts]

After a lot of humming and hawing, I finally pulled the trigger on the Aquila. Also took a chance and ordered the bi-metal hot end with fingers crossed that it'll fit. Also sprung for a BLtouch-clone. Fingers crossed!

[@VinnyBagODoughnuts]

Started to put everything together. The extra length of the heat break puts the nozzle a little lower - I may have to find a different nozzle cooling solution in the future (Voxelab Aquila).

[@john-andrewthomson1151]

WHAT WOULD YOU SET YOU RETRACTIONS TO

[@scoulp5189]

it's a shame not to take advantage of this modification to try to raise the temperature and print nylon at 300 ° by modifying the ender. Is it possible ? could you make a video on it? it would be great to print nylon carbon on an ender

[@jcfpv3454]

I upgraded to a better hotend only to have the heatbreak disconnect from the heater block and leak without noticing I wish they would have kept the screws from heat block to heat sink

[@FilamentFriday]

Why did you remove them? kzbin.info/www/bejne/m36Qo32Nd9qKntk

[@jcfpv3454]

They eliminated the screws on the microswiss hotend from heat sink to heater block

[@EasleyDone.]

is the V2 the same as the Ender 3? Title says Ender 3

[@richardcaracoza6782]

Did your retraction settings change?

[@chadblows]

I installed this heat break on my Ender 3. In order to print high temp materials like PC or Nylon, do you think it's necessary to upgrade my heater block, thermistor, or heater cartridge? So far I've been printing ASA successfully but I'm curious about printing PC.

[@LanSovinc]

I am thinking about upgrading the stock hot end on my Ender 3 v2 to be able to print with higher temperatures (for ASA). But I have heard that the heating cartridge and thermistor wires are also insulated with PTFE. Should I worry that gassing will occur on those parts or should it be safe?

[@PureRushXevus]

I don't even want to imagine printing at 260 degrees with the PTFE touching the nozzle o.O The fumes..

[@bruceyoung1343]

I ordered a Copperhead heat break from Slice. It’s due to arrive tomarrow Saturday. Even with a XS BOWDEN tube, I would be lucky if I got 12-15 prints of PTEG running 230-240 temps before I’d have to cut off 20mm hot end of Bowden tube. I’m looking forward to install the copperhead. Thank You Again for what you do

[@Garlic_Doggo]

This sounds like a pretty decent cheaper alternative to an all metal hot end if I'm not mistaken

[@FilamentFriday]

Actually creates an all bi-metal hotend with improved anti heat creep.

[@NanceLvr]

Where is the firmware update?

[@sekazi]

Do you have to change your retraction when using these?

[@jonathanlarsen4177]

0.5 - 2mm Retract MAX Perhaps you'll need to print 5-10°C hotter, not necessarily though.

[@gedeonang7077]

I'm considering between this and the V6 hotend. However, this one doesn't provide an extra thermistor or heating cartridge, so could I ask if the stock one can withstand up to around 285-300 degree celsius for high temperature printing (safely)? Thanks :)

[@michaeldavis2421]

Hi Chuck, I really enjoyed your videos, i purchased the HB from Slice however I noticed that the nozzle goes in 21/2 turns. Should i relevel and change Z offset?

[@gustavrsh]

Why add the thermal paste between the heat sink and the break? Isn't the function of the break to NOT transfer heat to the heat sink?

[@fritzwalter1112]

In my case, I got a lot of clogs because of heat creep. The thermal paste between the heat brake and the heat sink helps with cooling the heatbrake

[@FilamentFriday]

The purpose of the heat sink is to draw heat away from the heat break top section so filament won’t preheat and expand. Thermal paste helps that process.

[@kkuenzel56]

Just bought this heat break and installed it last night. Although I print primarily PLA, I thought this would be handy if I chose to print with other materials. However, after installed this my print quality went way South. I've re-leveled the bed, tried different temps and retraction settings. Pretty disappointing for printing PLA. I'll be switching back to my original setup.

[@facundogomez4892]

I think i have the same problem. The quality is not so good. I have stringing issues and i can't adjust the retraction distance because at more than 3.5mm the hot end gets clogged. So i'll try to use the oil dispenser trick. If it doesn't work, i'll be switching back to the original setup too.

[@facundogomez4892]

I'm talking about PLA, didn't try other materials yet.

[@AndyDillbeck]

@@facundogomez4892 Did you ever get it working right? I'm having similar issues with under extrusion (possibly because of clogging) when doing a lot of retraction after the upgrade.

[@bo2o]

getting a lot of stringing also been trying all speeds and retractions. nothing works yet. spent a lot of time.

[@facundogomez4892]

@@AndyDillbeck Yes, i managed to make it work reducing the retration distance at 1.6, retraction speed at 40 and increasing noozle's temperature at 215°C. I reinstalled the bi-metal and the noozle tighter, so i't doesn't loose material, and i installed a new aluminum extrusor, wich took me some time to adjust it right. The problem is that there is stringing (looks like you have to accept it for pla and bi-metal), but there is no clogging and It worked continuously since then.

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

Slice Engineering makes some really nice stuff. I have a CR-10S Pro v2 that constantly has those extrusion issues...after a few prints, that Capricorn tubing gets cooked

[@1937Brett]

I'm trying to upgrade my anycubic neo hot end full metal one is there any advice what copper heatbreak I can use

[@dominikslovak1897]

Can you show us, the same change on the Ender 3 S1?

[@JDccc26]

100C bed temp for ABS! PETG you can use 80C...

[@dugy40]

also i cant find red capricorn tubing. didnt see a link here

[@briantaylor4559]

Would adding the bi-metal heatbreak eliminate the need for the Luke Hatfield hot end fix?

[@RyanBischoffPercussion]

Came to ask the same thing. I would guess that it wouldn’t be needed now. Or we’d definitely need to change the amount that’s in the hotend.

[@FilamentFriday]

Correct. Not needed.

[@LargeKid]

I got extremely worried for a minute after i installed the heat break. I also noticed it is to tall for the cr touch. I did the auto level and adjust my z off set. Then i had to go to work. Guess just have to keep on it when i print just in case if i have to change the z offset. That would have been a nice tidbit of info to have. Very glad after came back to read the comments to see if i was the only one having that issue. Do they make some kind of back plate or something to make it higher up?

[@Vault101.3D]

Hi Chep, my Heatbreak is stucked on the heatasink, its the original creality heatsink of my ender 3 v2. It didn't slide smooth like yours. Do you think i have to heat the hot end so the heat break can get out of the heat sink?

[@oricardomiranda]

I wish I had that when I bought my v2. I would have saved a lot of money. Now I’m super happy with my mellow v6 clone. But if I buy another Ender I will follow your advice.

[@dangerous8333]

How would you have saved a lot of money? Failed prints? People are printing perfectly fine with the regular Bowden tube setup. Most people simply upgrade to this to print at higher temps. Love my v2's.

[@jonathanlarsen4177]

@@dangerous8333 Probably because he spent money on capricorn tubes and chewed through them. Tbh I'd go with a V6 anyway because the bi-metal heatbreak is really fragile. NathanBuildsRobots recently made a video on the Phaetus Dragonfly, I had the same issue he encountered with my mellow bi-metal heatbreak (E3 V2). Might just upgrade straight to a Dragon lol

[@tndabone]

So basically just part of a microswiss hotend?

[@dangerous8333]

Yep. I thought for sure this was an old video.

[@nickmoffitt4160]

Are these compatible with the s1 and s1 plus?

[@protofreak9518]

Alright I got mine in an already a 100% improvement it’s no longer under extruding and has been working for hours no issues definitely if you get an ender 3 or any creality printer that uses the Bowden to nozzle setup just get the slice engineering heat break too and save yourself the headache