Historic mortise lock repair. Getting your historic hardware working!

[@gjacobson76]

I was a locksmith for 11 years. I have fixed hundreds of mortise locks. Most are very simple and easy to work on. You can use a soft brass brush or a buffing pad to restore the finish. Broken springs are a common problem. You can easily get an assortment of spring steel and make your own replacement springs. Taking a picture of what it looks like can save you when you are putting the lock back together. Most old mortise locks are warded locks and take a bit key. The term skeleton key refers to a key that was cut to bypass different ward configurations. Other problems you can run in to are: debris in the lock, the strike plate misaligned, stripped set screws on the knob, stripped holes on the door that lock body screws go in to. These locks will last another 100 years if you take care of them. Great video Brent!

[@BrentHull]

Wow, you are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for the tips.

[@marcodiwa]

Would like to know more about spring replacement. How? assortment of spring steel? what, where and how? Thanks

[@odinslockllc]

@@marcodiwa check out SE lock and key YT channel. Search under mortise and he has many types of repairs on theses

[@JWHusby]

Thanks for the video. If have the time, it might be helpful to take some close-up footage and insert it accordingly. As a hint for anyone else reading this, just for my own sanity, once I open the cover off the mortise lock I always take a photo with my phone so that I can remember exactly how to put all the pieces back in order.

[@BrentHull]

Thanks for the tip! I usually do that with a front door mortise lock because those are more complicated. I appreciate the note!!

[@ikust007]

Same here…:)

[@turbotension]

Yeah I can’t see shit

[@TraciRene]

I've hated my door knobs since I moved in my house 5 years ago but this video made me appreciate them. I will look for a way to upgrade them without completely replacing them. Thank you

[@BrentHull]

Please do!

[@dorothysay8327]

YYYYEEESSSS!! Do it!!

[@zacharybrooks9053]

Brent, thank you SO much for this video. After hours of googling and tinkering, your video provided so much clarity. Not only do I now understand the components; I appreciate the beauty of the device and am no longer just frustrated at it.

[@BrentHull]

Great to hear it! Thanks for sharing!

[@UNIONFEATURES]

Hi Brent, a big thank you from Bath in England. Your video gave me the confidence to fix a long term sticking internal mortice lock in my 1880s townhouse. All sorted now. 🙌

[@BrentHull]

Nice, thanks for the feedback. Bath is one of my favorite cities in the world. Cheers.

[@tommel1969]

Just got my first old home about 1900’s was always a parsonage. I am the first one other than the church to own it. Everything is original, and I want to keep it that way. Thanks for the inspiration and instructions

[@BrentHull]

Wow, lucky you. Congrats!

[@Anonymous-it5jw]

WD-40 is designed for water displacement, hence the "WD" and the "40" is the 40th formula they tried,and it worked; it is not an actual grease or long-term lubricant, and for better long term results a lock grease should be used on the moving parts, so you don't have to remove the lock every year and spray it with WD-40 or a similar temporary solution to your problem.

[@BrentHull]

Yep, I messed that up. Someone else pointed that out. Thanks.

[@roygoyker2547]

Hi. Great vid right up to the point of wd40. I cringed. It turns to glue after 6 months. Use Inox Lanox. A beautiful lubricant that does not attract dust, does not turn to glue, prevents corrosion, and is not easily displaced by moisture. A lanolin based lube for small equipment and mechanisms...also good for your push bike haha. Cheers Roy. Ps WD40 earned me a lot of money when i was an office equipment tech company, people spray it on office equipment and 3-6 months later pay me to unjam and wash out their mechanism. Its a shocker. Use it on your car and then be careful.

[@foreverbekahful]

I’m glad y’all mentioned this. I was like..”WD-40…what???” For the old doors I am working on I will get the grease you suggested. Thank you! 😊

[@sunnystar3321]

If I hadn't came across your video I certainly would have replaced but now I'm going to take my problem hardware and save it. Thanks so much. I live in a house with original wood floors, unpainted woodwork, doors and hardware and trying keep it that way.

[@BrentHull]

Glad I could help. Sounds like an amazing house. Thanks

[@angelopepeskordos]

It’s kinda crazy how much I enjoyed watching this!

[@BrentHull]

Haha, Thanks.

[@jonp8225]

I used this video to fix a mortise lock in my 1900 built home today. Someone had painted over the deadbolt portion and the paint has gotten inside the lock and stopped it up. A good cleaning and lubricant fixed it up. The house has a lot more locks that will need the same treatment. Thanks for the informative and helpful content!

[@BrentHull]

So glad it helped.

[@hannanathan564]

3:25 This is where I’ve been hiding my hard-drives. On a real note, very helpful video. Thanks!

[@BrentHull]

Haha! Thanks for watching.

[@KenHill]

Hi, Brent! Just a quick note here as I'm halfway through this video. I have a 1927 five-story terracotta/terrazzo/stone office bldg. here in the Northwest/ Puget Sound. I have it a bit different with this building as those four floors of offices have unit lock sets. But I just came on here right now to confirm that even here the bathrooms were set up with nickel hardware on the bathroom side. The basic hardware finished throughout this building is dark dark bronze, yes, dark bronze² . Oh, Tri-Flo to at least finish after cleaning with WD40. But that's me.

[@BrentHull]

Thanks, and yes, I messed up on the WD40. You need an oil for lubrication. Thanks.

[@KenHill]

​@@BrentHullThanks for all your videos. I am trying to find someone who has experience with the old Porter-Cable 513 lock mortiser. I'm doing a refurb on one and practically no one has information on servicing. Any ideas?

[@jsmcguireIII]

I've been replacing the old knob setscrews with long Allen nuts that make them tight on the spindles. Often the threading inside the holes get too smooth over many years and the setscrews won't grip. The Allen inserts push off the threading in the knob itself and locks it on good. I also replace the return springs when I'm in there.

[@BrentHull]

Nice. Well done. Thx.

[@thenexthobby]

Every door in the 1939 house I'm in has these (with integral deadbolt-ish locks, like in your example here) including the closets and the original external doors. They tell a story, because the ones that are dirty/corroded/worn are the doors used every day for many decades. So it's awesome to be able to reference the seldom-used doors to learn what to expect. I've also noticed that for the ones with slipping knobs, where the knob's set screw just won't stay tight, those are also the ones where the mortise assembly needs a clean-and-lube. What happens is ... as the mortise assembly becomes harder to work, that places a far greater strain on the knob and its set screw.

[@BrentHull]

Thanks for your sharing your experience.

[@2Tantric_4U]

Great video no complaints, actually learned a few new things. I just wanted to put out there maybe use something better than Regular WD-40 as it evaporates entirely in a relatively short time, as it's true use is mainly to be a penetrating solvent. They offer a silicone version that will last much longer and also provide oxidation protection due to the added silicone residue left when the solvent evaps. Optimally some grease or oil though as they will last much longer.

[@BrentHull]

Noted, yep, I messed that up.

[@mrrognli]

Great video, don't know how you dont have more views.

[@BrentHull]

I appreciate that! Thanks for watching.

[@daniellove4576]

So helpful, thanks for this. My locks turn 100 next year. I was looking at replacement parts but then thought to check youtube. Glad I did!

[@BrentHull]

Nice. Thanks.

[@vkaPAUL]

great video. I use to play with those locks as a kid tearing them apart, because of curiosity. always love to see them today still in their original doors.

[@BrentHull]

Same here! Thanks for watching.

[@ivonekowalczyk5823]

More on revamping these locks PLEASE !!!

[@BrentHull]

Ok. Thx.

[@Nicolandia422]

Thanks for the video. My home has these and this video instilled confidence that I don’t need to swap out mine. Looking forward to working on my ASAP!

[@BrentHull]

Great!! Good luck.

[@ivonekowalczyk5823]

More on these locks! How do we get keys to use, or replacement parts?

[@BrentHull]

I find them from salvage yards. Thx.

[@MatthewFenty]

Opportunity to potentially replace the escutcheon plate or rosette, since those usually take some battle damage over the decades. Original mortise + replacement plates makes a great assembly

[@BrentHull]

Good point! Thanks.

[@laneyparker3399]

Thank you!!! I needed to know how to switch from right to left hand swing. You just saved me alot of time and work. ❤

[@BrentHull]

Glad it helped!

[@tc9148]

Very interesting and informative.

[@BrentHull]

Glad it was helpful!

[@PeeedaPan]

great video. Im interested to know how to choose door knob style for each style of home

[@BrentHull]

Great suggestion! I'll work on it.

[@mobbinator]

This was very helpful, although I suggest closeups of the mechanisms. Either way, thank you!

[@BrentHull]

Glad it helped. Noted.

[@gregorhochschild7811]

Great videos. They make me appreciate some of the historical details in our 1880 house more including a massive 5x7' pocket door. Not sure whether it is original but the hardware seems ancient. What I struggle with is that everything (doors, moldings) is covered in multiple layers of paint (including lead) and with many imperfections. When do you replace and when do you strip in these situations?

[@BrentHull]

Good question. I almost always strip! It's worth it. There are many good strippers on the market today that are non toxic. We have used Peel-Away successfully. Good Luck!

[@Eriborowska]

Super helpful!!! I have mortise locks in my home and need to replace a few damaged knobs, and I’m wondering if I can use a placement spindle that does not have the extra adjustment holes? Perhaps just a universal style in the appropriate length?

[@BrentHull]

Yes you can! Good luck!

[@a97chrjo]

In Sweden, northern Europe, the recommendation 100 years ago was to paint all your hardware. It was mainly to make them less visible and also for rust protection.

[@BrentHull]

Interesting. That is the way they are treated in New England. Thanks for sharing.

[@TheSwissChalet]

Awesome! Thanks!

[@BrentHull]

Your welcome

[@theofarmmanager267]

I would be fairly sure it’s the same in the US but, here in the UK, there are several (maybe many but I’ve only come across several) differing types of mortise lock. The principle is the same but it seems the early ones didn’t have springs - that means that you turn the knob to open and the catch actually clicks open; when you want to close the door, then you turn the knob back and the catch clicks shut. These seem to be production manufactured and not blacksmith forged so perhaps the technology of springs wasn’t widely known and/or spring steel less widely available. The house in which we live dates from 1769. The original part is the front area which we know use as a dining room downstairs and a bedroom upstairs; it was literally a one room up and one room down. The downstairs room would be living room, kitchen all combined with a range providing heat and cooking. The entrance was straight off the mud road into the downstairs room. The lock we currently have is not the original but a rim lock dated to the late 19th or early 20th century; it’s crude in some ways but does feature springs and has a sliding lock bar underneath. However, originally, the “lock” back and front would have been versions of the Suffolk Latch. Probably forged by the local blacksmith in wrought iron which is strong but brittle. Later on, steel was used and those latches do survive; in fact, we have a couple of latches which I think might well date back to the very early 19th century; they could well have been originally on the front door and back door as replacement for the originals but later fixed to internal doors when the hovel was extended and the need for secure locks, rather than latches, was there. As a nod to these, I have made a lot of Suffolk latches out of oak and these are fixed to the ledges planked solid oak internal doors. The doors themselves were likely to have been of simple ledger construction of wide planks of a local tree, quite possibly elm, which was covered in a tar-based liquid for longevity. Another aside, I make a quick decision about the nature of the work of the householder (bodger or careful) by looking at door hinges and door locks; if they have been painted over, then bodger; if taken off before painting the door and fixed back afterwards, then careful.

[@BrentHull]

Thanks, nice perspective.

[@cpr876]

Thanks for the video! I have a front doorknob just like this but too bad the one you showed was meant for interior door.

[@BrentHull]

There are a lot of similarities. Good luck.

[@darkwebgirl]

Im in a pre-war NYC apartment and my door wont shut or lock right now, it just opens with a push, lol. I live in Harlem, kinda scary. Waiting on my super to come check it out, but, you saying its an easy at home DIY is tempting LOL. Because its my only door lock im too scared to take it out and mess up worse, and have everybody in my building realize the door doesnt lock, lol, which i am trying to avoid. Otherwise id try this out. Quite the informative video.

[@BrentHull]

It might be worth the try. Good luck.

[@cruikshank]

My front door is a Mortise Lock but the outside has a thumb latch handle instead of a knob. The inside is a glass knob. The shaft into the glass knob is split down the middle into 2 pieces. On each piece one side is threaded, the other is flat. I can’t seem to tighten up the inside knob. It feels like it’s going to pull off. House was built around 1915, Eastern PA. Thanks for any advice.

[@BrentHull]

You should be able to find a replacement. If you have an Architectural salvage yard in your town. You can also find them online, ebay or other Arch. Salv yards. Good luck.

[@Pvcentral]

Hi Brent, thanks for the great video! Quick question- do you know where could I find parts for these locks? One of my flat steel springs broke…

[@BrentHull]

I would shop at architectural salvage yards. You can even shop on line.

[@petermeitzler9981]

Great video. Opened up my first Yale mortise lock today in our 100 year old home. Elegantly simple mechanism. I wanted to open the mechanism to see why the deadbolt wasn't sliding over, thought it was jammed with paint etc. (someone painted it, and badly). Got it open, and noticed instead that there is a tiny pin protuding halfway into the travel zone of the bolt arm. It's preventing the deadbolt from moving into the engaged position. Is it because the door it was mounted in leads to a balcony that could be considered a fire escape? Maybe it was a safety move? It can't be locked, unless I swap out the deadbolt arm with one drilled out differently? Curious. This is definitely a designed in element. But I do intend to keep it and all the mortise locks in the house. I think they're cool. But I want to be able to lock the door. Was thinking about swapping it with a functioning deadbolt lock from another door in the house.

[@BrentHull]

This is exactly what I hoped people would do. Yes, dig in and make them work. Cheers.

[@Scapegoatstudio]

Hi Brent. I also appreciate taking them apart (once I photograph it) just to appreciate the mechanics. But I have a conundrum... I own a few mortise lock sets that have a broken spring (the flat steel one), which makes them almost useless. Maybe they were cheaper lock sets to begin with. I've had no luck finding just the springs on Ebay... is there a way to make new springs, or do I need to cannibalize other lock sets?

[@BrentHull]

You can make new springs from metal stock or cannibalize. If you have an architectural salvage yard nearby, they will most likely have parts. You might check Craigs list or Facebook market place for local deals. Good luck.

[@robervar1097]

Have to tease a bit Churchill got a better close up than the lock parts 🤔 but Fun-tastic any pics of inside a pexto m l thanks

[@BrentHull]

Haha, thanks.

[@DrunkcookingwilthBilly]

Best mechanism ever

[@BrentHull]

I agree. Thx.

[@fiiveonezerofive]

Any tips or suggestions on how to reinforce such locks or doors on antique hardware ??? Artisan doors for doors, brass, etc Without compromising appearance of the original look?

[@BrentHull]

Hmm, what does reinforce mean. You can still buy mortise locks that are new. You lose a little bit of the look. Good luck.

[@joemeller9573]

Great video. Thanks.

[@BrentHull]

Thanks!

[@kycatrescue7305]

Hello Brent. Thank you for the helpful video. I have a lot of these locks in a house I am restoring. Do you have any idea where I can purchase the little screws for the spindle, and replacement keys for the lock like you have in this video?

[@BrentHull]

A good architectural salvage yard should have bins full of them. I know ours does here in Fort Worth. Google "Architectural salvage" and call a few. Good luck.

[@nestor8369]

The way I do it is use a blade to take off the paint then depending on the finish I will use steel wool and lubricated it and it's done then i work on the screws and faceplates to take off the paint and use the steel wool again then that's it

[@BrentHull]

That works too. I was amazed it came off best with my fingernail. Thanks for the input.

[@Oddpistachio1]

This video was very helpful, thank you!

[@BrentHull]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.

[@aintit2586]

I have one that the handle will turn but doesn't work the latch. just lube or is something broken?

[@BrentHull]

I suspect something is loose or broken. Open it up, let me know what you find.

[@lizzapaolia959]

Fantastic video 😃

[@BrentHull]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@GotSig1510]

Great video

[@BrentHull]

Thanks!

[@MichaelAndersxq28guy]

My 1884 house has rim and mortise locks. What grease would be the better lubricant since they need repair anyway?

[@BrentHull]

I would just use oil, like 3 in 1 for most parts. Some of the gear pieces could use a heavier grease. That is what I have seen. Thanks.

[@ikust007]

2:50 while restoring old locks, I found out old thin washers being used in order to adjust snugly the system.

[@BrentHull]

Sometimes a great solution. Thx

[@sirtrollsallotthe2nd126]

love your content my friend

[@BrentHull]

Thanks so much, I appreciate you watching.

[@rwaddill]

Hey Brent - just bought a house in Park Hill (a few doors down from Bruce). Thanks for this video! I was ready to scrap my front door mortise hardware but I'm reconsidering. My problem, though is the interior knob is held in place by a set screw and the threads are stripped so it can't make contact to turn the latch and open the door. Any ideas?

[@BrentHull]

Hi, send me a pic to [e-mail]. Let me see what you are dealing with. Thanks.

[@gjacobson76]

Some of the set screws were slotted and take a flat blade screw driver. Some take an allen wrench. A trick you can use to try to get the stripped set screw out is, if it is a slotted screw, put a flat rubber band over the tip of your screw driver and then try to get the screw out. If you have an allen head, try the same. It the trick doesn't work, you may have to drill it and use an Easy Out. It would be a good idea to chase the therads out with a tap and replace the set screw. Hope this helps. Good luck with your project.

[@qkcam45]

have a 30s style spindle, (no holes for set screw) the handle will tighten on and I can get the set screws to tighten it works for a little while then loosens up again. Is there a good solution to keep it tight and working longer? thanks!~

[@BrentHull]

Go find a different spindle. You can get them at Architectural salvage yards. You can also probably find them on-line.

[@JoeDoe1]

Thank you.

[@BrentHull]

You're welcome!

[@mattcoats896]

Hi Brent. The outside knob has a pin. I lost it! What can I use for a substitute?

[@BrentHull]

A nail, a hanger wire? Good luck.

[@mattcoats896]

@@BrentHull thanks. Tolls Ed a little nail in and didn’t look back.

[@mattthompson9480]

Thank you!!!!!

[@BrentHull]

Of course!

[@nicholasmanovich4330]

thanks Brent....ya just tacked another thing onto my to do list ....jk, great tutorial as always !!!

[@BrentHull]

Happy to help... 😀

[@nancydrew5]

It took u 4 minutes because ur experienced Brent! I have 116 year old locks and another 15 of those locks in 6 panel doors. And zero experience 😢

[@BrentHull]

You can do it!!

[@zimitas23]

Where can you buy return springs for the latch?

[@BrentHull]

It depends, you can buy them at a hardware store and either cut them down or adapt them to your needs, or make them. You can also buy old locks and salvage parts. Good luck.

[@artemioquintero7866]

Hands down mortise locks are way more handsome than your modern door knob.

[@BrentHull]

AMEN!

[@bly4233]

I have a suddenly stuck deadbolt in my mortise lock and now I can't open the door, even after removing the hinges. A long closeup might have helped. Ideas?!

[@BrentHull]

You'll need to take off the handles, remove the spindle and remove from the door. Typically the spring or sprocket inside is stuck. Good luck.

[@bly4233]

@@BrentHull as the door was closed, there was no way to remove the lock. I had to use a couple mechanic’s picks (one on each side of the door, 2 people). Eventually we were able to manage to lift the mechanism on one side and pull back the bolt from the other side. Once removed, I found this lock was a modern reproduction with a simplified design, but poor materials and manufacturing. The key could not lift the mechanism high enough for the bolt to slide back into the door. I ground the locking catch into a ramp, so this can’t ever happen again. Functionally, the bolt could be pushed in when it is protruding, but there isn’t an easy way to do that once the door has been closed.

[@patcarroll8292]

Brent didnt show me anything, great job showing a close up on how the parts work and how to get it working in detail.

[@BrentHull]

Ok.

[@patcarroll8292]

@@BrentHull Sorry that sounded a little aggressive. In the future, please show closeups of the parts.

[@edwardscissorhands4007]

awesome

[@BrentHull]

Thanks for watching!

[@brianspencer2379]

Can I get a key cut for a rim lock please

[@BrentHull]

You can find one that will work in most architectural salvage yards.

[@AbbyFlynt]

Does anyone know how to fix a mortise lock when one of the buttons is stuck in the "unlocked" position? I can't lock my exterior door. HELP!

[@BrentHull]

I would take it out and clean it. I suspect it will work great when lubricated.

[@espeon6847]

I can only get one door knob to work (meaning I can only open the door from one side). What am I doing wrong

[@BrentHull]

You may have a split spindle, which are usually meant for exterior doors. You may need to change it out. Or, your set screw on the non-working side, needs to be tightened.

[@ikust007]

Always excellent content. Would not use WD-40 , sir, if I may say. For cleaning yes. Not long term. It evaporates. Grease must be added. Maybe you did . Just don’t see.

[@BrentHull]

Thanks for sharing. I agree and I did miss that. I saw the rust, got the WD40 then forgot the oil. NIce!

[@faviangarza5192]

What can be done if the key is missing for the lock?

[@BrentHull]

These keys can be easily found through architectural salvage stores.

[@96littlefeather]

There are people who use them for jewelry as well.. i have some keys of different shapes, and only found 1 that worked some what. I i will try cleaning all of them and maybe that will help. Thank you for this video!

[@ataurus62]

Mine is wonky and won't open, how do you fix that?

[@BrentHull]

I would spray some WD40 in there and let it loosen up rust, then try again. Good luck.

[@oldslow3694]

the problem with these old locks, they are to the end of the useful lifespan, latches bolts wear, the coil latch springs with offset loops are difficult to find. so yes if lock can be cleaned up go for it

[@BrentHull]

Thanks.

[@bygarrett]

Just like a clock... The retainer strip that keeps the deadbolt locked either fell out or is broken and for the life of me I can't see how it goes back in. Some close-ups of the internal components would be most helpful

[@BrentHull]

Noted. Thanks for sharing.

[@AndreMartens-lq8vu]

Back when everything was made to last

[@BrentHull]

Amen

[@MariaRodriguez-k2u7w]

How to fix it twisted inside

[@BrentHull]

ok

[@ryananthony4840]

Ok starting at about 3:12 to the next 10 seconds or so........ I'm not saying anything, I'm gonna behave on social media.....😶😶😶😜😂😂😂

[@BrentHull]

LOL, thanks for not saying anything.

[@ryananthony4840]

@@BrentHull 😂😂

[@PolaCaKe890]

omfg i almost ruined all these doors hahahah thanks

[@BrentHull]

LOL, glad it helped.

[@gjacobson76]

Word of caution, old lock, old paint.....lead based paint? You may want to be careful and use a chemical paint stipper if the lock was painted over. Lead test kits are available and are fairly inexpensive.

[@BrentHull]

Thanks, in this case I knew it was from a recent paint job.

[@ikust007]

4:32 because of humidity ?

[@BrentHull]

Yes! Thx

[@rodneymiller5926]

If you want a grossly rusted lock, you can pretend wd40 is a lubricant. It's okay to use it as a solvent to get things moving but then put some CLP on it or similar.

[@BrentHull]

Noted. Thanks.

[@carladavis2587]

Your camera needs to get directly over the lock. It’s difficult to see when the camera is so far away.

[@BrentHull]

Understood.

[@Mossyfurnace]

Show a clear view of the mechanism duuude

[@BrentHull]

Noted.

[@bullfrogpondshop3179]

This video is of little use due to poor camera angles. Bummer.

[@BrentHull]

Ok.

[@kurteaston3465]

Can't see what your explaining

[@BrentHull]

noted.

[@georgeweir8848]

Why don't you at least show a close-up of the internal parts, placement etc. Not much help for me.

[@BrentHull]

Ok. Noted.

[@cyberwolf6667]

Sorry Brent, everything you did was wrong! Yes it is a mortise lock, but more precise, it’s a bit key lock. It’s 100 years old, you didn’t mention how much wear and tear is on that lock, I have to admit that from the brief time I could see it, it wasn’t as wore as most are. Wd40 is not oil, it’s the worst you can use. Silicone is the best and a silicone grease is better, but oil will not turn back the clock of time when it comes to the metal to metal wear. Also the springs, stretching a 100 year old spring, that’s not going to make it stronger , it most likely will break. Never ever use the key on these old locks, you can get locked into a bedroom or closet and old bit key locks have a problem that occurs, the key will lock it but may not unlock it . Most of the old lock knobs do not sit so nicely into the rosette or escutcheon plate don’t worn out hubs. Yes, they are nice, yes , they definitely were made better than todays tubular locks, and greasing the inners (not wd40) will reduce new metal to metal wear, but for the most part , the damage is done and it the lock is starting to fail, the home owner should think about replacing it And Yes, I’m a locksmith with 36 years experience

[@BrentHull]

Thanks for sharing your expertise. I still think these locks should be repaired, despite the wear. Happy new year.

[@jpc08109]

Wtf dude I tried your way and now I have to get a new door, maybe stop making KZbin videos

[@BrentHull]

Haha, I have no idea how that lead to a new door.

[@bungalowmo]

This guy talks WAY too fast!

[@BrentHull]

noted.