Hobbywing G3 Xerun 4268 2200kv Motor Problem

this is the second motor i have been through this year but the second time was even worse i hope to get rotors when they come out with them

[@alvarofonseca7313]

Hi, THANKS for you video, damage is done by heat and low or no lubrication, I run 1/8 onroad electric car and you must oil lubrication on the motor on every 5 minutes race, you motor will last longer with no damage , have a great day..

[@onetouchautorepair4381]

There is an external repair kit made for this issue by a aftermarket company. It moves the bearing forward on the rotor outside the motor case. As soon as I find the link I will post it.

[@rcmadlabz2492]

Hey Dave! Gotta keep an eye on those bearings and motor temps. Both motors are still useable, the rotor with less wear is easier to fix. *With new bearings installed, you’ll want to double check the rotor end play and adjust it with shims. (You want .2mm lateral movement when everything is assembled) **If Hobbywing doesn’t warranty the rotors, this will be the lasting fix to do: ~After determining the shims needed..mix a “pea sized amount” of JB Weld (original 2 part cold weld epoxy), apply a thin amount to the rotor shaft damaged area and the inside of the new bearing with a toothpick. Assemble everything and allow it to sit for 24hrs. ~At 12 hours and 24hours, you’ll want to use a cordless drill on the motor shaft to spin the rotor slowly. (Do this to be sure the assembly rotates freely).

[@rcmadlabz2492]

I had to deal with this same issue on my setup for my Team Durango Dex8. I’m running a Hobbywing XERUN 4268 2800kv on 4s off of a Hobbywing XR8 Pro esc. (The original bearings failed early)

[@rcmadlabz2492]

@@jakubstabiszewski4806 Tap the end of the rotor shaft to get the rotor out of the motor can. The inner bearing race may be stuck on the rotor shaft, I just use a benchvise and small hammer, tap the race off. The outer bearing race…if it is stuck inside the motor can, you can use a 90deg pick tool, or heat-up/bend a small flat screwdriver to work it out.

[@jakubstabiszewski4806]

But if I assemble the bearing with the rotor when on both will be jb weld won't it cement itself together? I need to do this to rescue my only motor but can't figure out your instruction

[@rcmadlabz2492]

@@jakubstabiszewski4806 you are only using a very thin coating of JB weld. Yes, you will want to assemble it and it will want to cement itself…this is why you will want to give the motor a few twists after some time. (The twisting/spinning of the motor before full cure is important. You’ll want to check it a few times during the 24hrs it is curing.)

[@rcmadlabz2492]

@@jakubstabiszewski4806 this same process can be done with “sloppy/loose” hub carriers,steering hubs and drive axles.

[@hansandersson5638]

I managed to get another fault with the rotor. During practice the car started to run backwards. When I remove the sensor cable it ran forwards as it should. I switched motors and the other motor was fine so it wasn't the esc. I thought It was the sensor board that has crapped out. But it still ran backwards with a different sensor board. After I changed the rotor the motor ran as it should. Very strange.

[@rcdaveshobbies]

Yeah, that is very weird. I have never seen any kind of problems like that either it works or it doesn’t work not change direction lol

[@davidj1815]

I'm putting the 4274SD G3 2250Kv in my ET48 2.0. I think the longer can will prove better for the truggy. Was looking forward to some more Otterville footage!

[@rcdaveshobbies]

@David J yeah that is the motor that I wanted to put in the truggy but it was going to take forever to get so I went with the 2200 but I am going to try that out let me know in a month or two how it’s going. And I am going back to Otterville tomorrow I will try and get some footage of the new layout.

[@reicheltarmin]

Yes, i also have this problem, Andrew some of my friands also. Ils mater of quality.

[@Sweet_Veet]

I’ve had the same problem with my 2250 kv motor. I’ve only had it for few months.

[@joopmoes9023]

Probleem met deze motoren is het materiaal van de as zachter is dan de lagering en door de hitte en toeren de binnenring inslijt, ik los het op door voorste lager met Loctite erop te lijmen, Loctite voor lagers en hoge temperaturen try it s6

[@joopmoes9023]

Put Loctite for high temp

[@michelepellizzon8171]

Mine have the same wear too, this is a very informative video, by disassembling it I lost track of the spacers order, can you please help me by telling the spacers order? Thank you so much in advance

[@rcdaveshobbies]

You put the two brass washers on the rotor first and then the metal wavy washer on

[@OregonRC]

Wow, I will keep an eye on mine. Any idea how many packs you ran through on them?

[@rcdaveshobbies]

@RK STAR I ran a lot of packs through it but it’s only been about two months I think the truck is just too much for that motor

[@williamfralin6787]

Bonjour les défauts on était corrigė sur les g3 actuel ?

[@rcdaveshobbies]

I would say no, but I think it was due to hard landings from the big jump on the track that year because since then I have not had any problems just try not to beat on the car lol