Holey Carb - Repairing a Solex H30/31 PICT blown plug

Join David as he repairs a blown plug on a Solex H30/31 PICT carburetor for his 1968 VW Karmann Ghia.
Music (Pinnacle 19.5 royalty-free music):
Pulsing Dance
House Fever
City Night Groove

[@clatonbigsby2616]

Your a funny little guy

[@LifewithDavid1]

Thanks for watching!

[@reannpacheco1530]

Hi David, I’m rebuilding my 1968 VW SOLEX h30/31 carburetor and I’m there’s a couple things I don’t understand. 1) my accelerator pump is a bit stuck so I would like to remove it to clean but 2) my plate screws are stripped and I don’t know where to find a replacements. I’m also considering whether my pump is stuck or it’s suppose to be a little more on the tough side. 3) I am unsure whether the h30/31 is suppose to come with a pump injector because mine didn’t. Thanks!

[@LifewithDavid1]

Reann, it sounds like your carb needs a little work. The pump injector is a little "u" shaped brass tube that press fits into the edge of the carb throat and points down into the middle of the carb throat (part 36 on the assembly at 03:48 of the video). They often fall out since they are just pressed in. With age, the accelerator pump diaphragm hardens, making it stiffer and more prone to leaking. That's why a new diaphragm is included in carb rebuild kits. If you have any concerns, then you should replace it since you don't want it to leak raw gas onto your hot engine; that usually doesn't end well. However, if you can't get the accelerator pump screws out; then you can't replace the diaphragm. Are the screws stuck and the heads stripped, or are they out and the threads are stripped? If the heads are stripped, you might be able to use vice grips on the screw head work them out. Maybe the last person used Loctite, you may need heat to free them; however, that will also ruin your diaphragm. You can get metric replacement screws at a hardware store; the heads won't look the same, and you may have to cut them to size, but they will work. However, if the threads are stripped; I would suspect the holes in the carb are bad since the aluminum carb body is much softer than the steel screws. In that case; you will have to repair the body. You could drill and tap the holes for the next size larger screw, use a heli-coil, or clean the hole really well and use a strong epoxy, like J-B Weld to fill the hole, then drill and tap. However; with all that work needed, you might want to try to get a new carb, either a complete replacement, or get several old carbs of the same size and create one good carb from the parts. Make sure you get a rebuild kit. Good luck!

[@masacronmasacron1927]

Hello, interesting video, good data. I would like to ask for help, I have problems with the location of Jet, idle and Jet power. What is the size and order in your carburetor. Thank you, I am attentive to your message.

[@LifewithDavid1]

Thank you. Currently, I have a main jet of 1.25 installed in the carb. I had been running 1.20 for about 10,000 miles, but I was a little worried about running too lean since I experienced some valve guide wear on the heads (which is why I had to replace them). The main jets are accessible through the big brass plug on the left side of the carb (when it is installed). It is a lot easier to replace if you remove the top of the carb first. I don't know about the other jets since I didn't replace them, and the carb is installed on the car now.

[@masacronmasacron1927]

@@LifewithDavid1 Thank you, you help me a lot with your comment. I still have doubts about the side jets, since the idle and power jet order has driven me crazy. Thanks greetings.

[@masacronmasacron1927]

SOLVE. The Idle Jet 45 (at 90° in front of the engine), Power Jet 65 (that at a 45° angle to the engine) Thanks. :) (Y)

[@roberthartford9171]

So no rebuild. It was the plug then

[@LifewithDavid1]

Yup. Had the kit and everything. Once I found the plug was gone; I thought I would try the carb again. To my delight; it ran great. So I'll save the kit for another day. Thanks for watching.