Hollow vs. Solid Mast S2 E66

What you need to know before you make a wooden mast. In this episode of the Art Of Boat building, Bob Emser Boat builder guides us through his decision to build a solid mast for his Haven 12 1/2.
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Bob Emser
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[@cjpsmachado]

I'm a naval architect, been building sailing wooden boats for the last 20 years, restored, own and sail a Rival 32 on which I build a cedar hollow mast, along with a cedar boom and spreaders, which are in use for the last 15 tears. never had a problem with it. The core is reinforced at the base, about half way to the spreaders, at the spreaders and at the top. It's been coated on the interior and exterior with epoxy, all the glued joints are also epoxy. All thru bolts are predrilled and fitted with stainless steel tubing epoxy glued where the bolts fit into. electric wiring goes thru the interior from bottom to top, all running and hoisting cables are exterior running with guiding holes on the steps fitted along the mast, this steps are a easy way to inspect the mast at all times. The construction is a simple case with 4 sides and planned to shape. simple and robust, overall it saved about 30% of the weight. The mast is 36 feet long and I can lift it alone, with some difficulty but still can.

[@stanmoderate4460]

Always a pleasure to watch (and learn).

[@willb1157]

I'M HERE FOR THE SPRUCE!! As an instrument builder/Luthier here in Australia I am eyeing up your beautiful Mast and Spa grade Stika. Really hard to get here fortunately I got some recently. I enjoy your channel and your knowledge.

[@petterandersson7429]

I'm not surprised you went with solid mast. It looks great. 👌

[@jarofthoughts]

I have a bit of a confession to make. I don't build boats. Probably never will. Don't even know if I want a boat. But, your videos are always interesting and very calming. I guess you could say I'm using your videos as some sort of theraphy or means for destressing. Just wanted to let you know. :)

[@thechumpsbeendumped.7797]

Ditto.

[@noahhume9743]

Built a couple of Bolger’s boats w/my Dad, worked at Legnos in Groton CT, and studied naval arch. in school. It would’ve been nice to actually test some varying sections (torsion, shear, bending) modulus and failure strength, but in general the strength contribution of the section is provided by the outer edge, with very little by the core. As noted by others, failures are common at bolts & fasteners or penetrations so sealing is key. Without ANY actual test data at hand, my instinct is that: 1. Laminating evens out anisotropy (differences in strength by direction). 2. Hollow is only marginally weaker, maybe not significantly, in repeated failure tests. 3. Hollow allows wire concealment. The particular joinery is mostly aesthetic, but I’d use a hollow section with epoxy and seal every surface. Great workman’s, btw!

[@rick91443]

Amazing. Great viewing...cheers..rr Normandy, Fr.

[@jasondohrman7098]

That was great! Thank you!

[@westonlandis2234]

Bob - I like your explanation of epoxy vs. titebond. I am hoping to make frames for my small boat by laminating oak strips that I have sitting around. I've seen this done with epoxy. If thats more of a gap filling glue than the titebond, should I consider laminating them with titebond instead?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Weston, Yes, you can consider using Titebond III.( make sure it's Titebond III for exterior use) As long as the laminates are clamped well and there is squeeze out. Best wishes, Bob

[@westonlandis2234]

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thank you, Bob. Cheers.

[@momo-yh7gf]

i wish i had all the tools and a palace of a shop.

[@LiftRanger]

You have a beautiful shop, Bob. And, another great video. How many times did you have to sharpen the blades on the power plane while making the mast?

[@bobsails9750]

Thank you.

[@TR4zest]

I would have enjoyed learning about the end grain of the pieces you chose for the mast.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Brian, I’ve had a few questions about the Sitka Spruce. I’m planning on doing a post about the quality ( including end grain) of the wood. Watch for a post this week. Cheers, Bob

[@TR4zest]

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Excellent, Bob, thanks. I am really enjoying your series.

[@JeremiahL]

Its a weight, and material utilization problem. The answer is not universal on when it makes sense to do something over something else... Like everything in engineering, it's a tight rope between many competing constraints. The material at the centroid isn't doing much in terms of strength.... I hole heartedly agree that hollow voids are subject to moisture ingression that can lead to structural looses that won't be accounted for in the initial design an analysis... It's obviously prudent to put every amount of insurance into the design to seal blind surfaces to provide protection. and drainage.

[@davidelliott5843]

How about a hollow mast with a carbon fibre rod up the middle set in epoxy? Silly idea or great Idea. I'm not a ship builder so what could go wrong?

[@Adventures_of_Marshmallow]

Unless the mast is pi-sliced pieces, I suspect you would have to pay attention to the deflection characteristics of the wood in a solid mast. A hollow mast offers equal deflection in all directions. I think I agree with some commenters that a hollow mast, from an engineering perspective is better because you can deploy pi-sliced ( end grain oriented from the outside toward the center ) ribbing on the interior. Just look at the spruce goose and the ridiculous wingspan that thing had... Airplanes in general. Ribbed beams are king. Just my opinion.

[@TheJarrodh]

If you did create a hollow mast, could you run lines internally - would that be a good reason to build a hollow mast?

[@corporalclegg914]

I agree with a Solid Mast for your build. for Schooners, I like Solid Masts. for Ketchs, I like Solid Masts. for Nassau-Rigged Sloops, I like Solid Masts. for all other wooden boats, I like Solid Masts. for non-wooden boats, I like hollow-core aluminum masts. I can’t wait to see you sail away, Bob…maybe you could join up with the Tally Ho or Arabella guys n gals afterward, to get your hands on another project & share your skills nationally.

[@thomasmiller687]

He has been with the Arabella project

[@allmomomosthomebus3895]

Bob, will you still be exhibiting at the woodrn boat show on Sunday?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Yes in the morning

[@allmomomosthomebus3895]

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding my daughter and I settled on coming to the show on Friday. I'll stop by... Larry

[@johndavidwolf4239]

Why not two part Resorcinol glue? It has been the standard of the industry for 3/4 of a century, withstood the test of time.

[@Chris_Moncada]

Did I miss the video where you put the name on the back of the boat?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Christopher, No, you didn't miss it. I did video the gold leaf process and will post it in an upcoming video. Thanks for watching!

[@SirCrypt666]

Another way to use epoxy is reduce it with an acetone and harden the joint under heat. It gives way finer joints

[@mjmdiver1137]

My bet is your next boat is a Dragon.

[@walterhoward5686]

I say Carbon fiber with a faux paint job to imitate wood ! Lol

[@kentklapstein9879]

I would be very curious to see “destructive testing” of solid versus birds mouth masts. The grain direction and knots have very large impact on strength. With a solid mast it would be impossible to align grain direction in 360 degrees and very costly, if not impossible, to avoid all knots. I built a 12 foot birds mouth mast with NO knots and all straight grain aligned perfectly in all directions. Once the jig was set up all sections were cut in far less time than shaping a square chunk, with less waste. Rot from within can me mitigated by coating the inside with epoxy while gluing up. Btw the glue up was very easy as the pieces fit together like a jigsaw.

[@oldsailor9022]

In my youth most masts were wooden, rectangular in section, hollow and stayed. Most were also tapered. Very few seemed to be sealed inside and without epoxy, 'sealing' would have been limited to a coat of primer. They lasted ok and when they did rot, it was usually around fittings and penetrations. From an engineering perspective a hollow mast can be stronger and lighter if properly engineered. I have built solid and hollow masts - the choice driven by boat type, use and scale (wall thickness is determined more by the need to resist impacts than rigging loads on a very small mast). If your trying to earn a living boat building, solid will be favoured every time - its so much less labour.

[@billj5645]

I'm a structural engineer so immediately your question of hollow vs. solid was intriguing. In bending which I think is the primary stress acting on the mast, a hollow cylinder is virtually the same strength and stiffness as solid. I watched to see how you built the mast and it seems that building it from 2 pieces is quicker and less prone to problems that building it out of 8 strips. I don't think the savings in material is worth the complicated joinery. You appeared to have gotten 2 good pieces of wood to build from, the advantage of building with smaller pieces is that you might have a better chance of getting 8 uniformly good pieces of small wood than 2 uniformly good larger pieces. This would likely be more true if you were building a significantly larger mast. In building construction you've likely seen composite materials such as glue laminated wood beams. These are significantly stronger than a beam sawn from a large piece of lumber because each small piece can be made up of uniformly good wood, a large piece is more likely to have variations that would reduce its overall strength. However I think even if you were building a significantly larger mast it might still be better to laminate boards flat than to join them to form a circle. Something you didn't address about the methods of building the hollow mast- how do you taper it to 2/3 of its diameter at the ends? It seems that the material would get too thin at the ends to work with.

[@gonesailabout9669]

Easiest way to do it is to gradually reduce the width of the dovetail piece as it gets closer to the top, just take a mm off the flat face every 10cm or so, for example If you are really looking for performance then you could also reduce the thickness of the piece but personally I’d prefer to keep the internal thickness as the diameter gets thinner,

[@ningpo6924]

"best" ... after all is said and done, IF you don't need electronics up in the mast, THEN go with the strongest / most efficient / cost effective, BUT if you NEED electrical up in the mast, there are some sacrifices well worth the trouble in order to have a way to get that wiring up there....just a thought, I haven't heard addressed here. success, I too like your videos very much, thorough...complete...thanks

[@jamessawyer8744]

hey so i have a question, for a 19ft long sailboat, replacing the mast with a wooden one. for that length of a boat which would be about a 22ft long mast, could that be made from a single piece of lumber or would joining two pieces like in this video be better? the boat was salvaged and the alum. mast is not so hot. i would like to make one out of wood

[@billj5645]

@@jamessawyer8744 assembling from smaller pieces has a strength advantage. you can select enough small pieces without flaws to put together into a larger piece but you would have difficulty finding a single large piece that was high enough quality wood.

[@jamessawyer8744]

@@billj5645 awesome thank you so much

[@williamreymond2669]

Ok, from a structural engineering point of view all of the material at the center of a solid mast isn't doing very much to make the mast stiffer and stronger relative to it's weight - just heavier. On the other hand from a material point of view with a solid mast all of the fibers of wood are all aligned and bound together as perfectly as possible - but perfect trees are rare these days. Solid masts are probably the simplest and most reliable and is easiest to control degree of stiffness and bendiness by controlling the exact profile of the taper. You can see why Yankees at least prefer a solid mast if performance isn't crucial. On the other hand, with a built-up mast you can cut out all of the flaws in the wood and optimize the inside and outside diameters to achieve your desired balance of stiffness and light weight but requires a much higher degree of craftsmanship and engineering. With a built-up mast your joints also have to be pretty flawless. The birds-mouth mast gives you a greater glued area than the coopered mast and may have some structural advantages over a straight joint - but I don't think anyone has ever actually tested that. In either case, a built-up mast is *a lot* more work. Cheaper? more expensive? hard to say.

[@scottgorman7166]

Great piece of wood you got there fella.......I hand made some vertical grain Sitka Spruce oars with Wenge tips for a 16' skiff I made in 1985 and still going strong. That mast should be a around a long time unless you hit a LOW bridge! OUCH! Why dont you protect the sides of SKYLARK with packing blankets so you dont ding her by accident when moving lumber around?

[@m.r.vanderburgh3757]

I have a pine mast on my Grundel 665 witch is sawed longitudinally in two parts, the sapwood core has been removed and the two halves are glued together, so this has been for over 45 years a very flexible good mast!

[@wisenber]

Super presentation. However, I have Einstein issues. I can't work out the time and space for most of my projects.

[@ZarzyckiRoSSY]

Hi Bob - really great mast - well done! Just one comment to your intro about spars structures. Hollow masts labor, in comparison to the whole boat work effort, is not really significant. They are also not really difficult to assemble as you suggested - there are number of approaches as you know and just one more step for boat building that is fairly complex itself. The main advantage of various hollow masts is that you may rearrange the wood structure to get given properties in term of long and short distances, there is also problem with availability of proper wood for long solid spars. But anyway, I was absolutely impressed on your approach to this issue and final product - brilliant work. Take care and sail safe! Kind regards from Poland, Pawel

[@DrKlausTrophobie]

I actually don't do woodwork. But i know from steel work the rule about hollow structures: A pipe is stronger then a rod *if* the cross section is identical. Same cross sections means identical weight (with identical materials, of course). *But* , you have to increase the outer diameter. As long as pipe and rod have the same OD, the rod will always be stronger. The calculation get's more interesting the other way: You can get the same strength with less weight (but still, larger OD!). In vehicles this is quite often justified for shafts and sometimes axles. In boats it might with regard to center of mass.

[@Dustmadeout]

Wow I really liked the belt sanding device. Definitely stealing the idea for my future boat.

[@globyois]

Agree on the glue joint. Titebond III wood glue is a “intrusion” resin, made to be “injected” into the wood via clamping pressure. Epoxy, on the other hand is surface held, meaning it “grips” the surface instead of being forced into the microscopic cells of the wood. Good move.

[@chrisleggatt3240]

That analagy makes sense! The clamping pressure forces the glue into the wood pores! Thankyou👍

[@globyois]

@@chrisleggatt3240 S (means smile)

[@acraftman2823]

Very nice, Having carried lumber as a carpenter for a loooong time I thought it was going to be around 28 lbs but I included paint🙃 thanks for posting enjoy your trip to the east coast!

[@weaverl43]

I enjoy your channel and admire the craftsmanship and beauty of your work. However I disagree with your solid vs hollow mast construction argument. The difference between the density of Sitka vs Doug fir does not signify the weight difference between a hollow mast and a solid. Just looking at the cross sections of the two samples that you made tells the story. The hollow sample must be at least 40% less dense whether made from Sitka or fir. I would also like to point out that the strength of the hollow is multi directional. Each stave is positioned at its maximum strength. A solid mast would have to have variable directional strength due to its grain direction.

[@lizdini722]

One thing I have learned about Bob in the time I have been watching him is that he extremely talented, organized, and he always he has the proper tools to complete his projects. The proper tools are only as useful as the craftsman using them. Bob is definitely an expert. I just love watching him!

[@dwel2928]

Thanks for another great episode Bob. That inside out belt sander is the cat's meow! And nothing like having a handy 16 ft. aluminum I-beam lying around. What a great shop you have. Thanks for sharing your project with us. - Don from a little town on the Erie Canal.

[@ModelShipLog]

Was this boat ever finished? this inspired me to build one boat myself, hopefully in a no far future. Meanwhile I am thinking about making an RC model similar to this

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

It is nearly finished. I few bronze parts to cast and sew the sails. She will be ready to be launched in the upcoming sailing season. Oh and I'll need to build a trailer! Thank for following along.

[@oldmanrunnerrob]

Hi from Arizona Bob! Have you always preferred a hinged stick rule over a tape measure?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

There are several reasons I use a folding rule. For short measurements, under 6, it is more accurate. In some cases for frequent short measurements it’s handy to leave unfolded. I do use a tape as well especially for long measurements over 6 feet. I also grew up seeing my father always using a folding ruler so it’s a bit of nostalgia for me, it constantly reminds me for him. Thanks for asking and watching. Cheers, Bob

[@MCsCreations]

Really fantastic work, Bob! Nicely done! 😃 Looking forward to the next part! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@davesalisbury1820]

Found your channel from the Acorn to Arabella discussion at the boat show. Looking forward to seeing the build!

[@RC-bl2pm]

I built a goat island skiff and went hollow birdsmouth. I didnt have to calculate it but the build was easy. You cut the strips on a tablesaw and plane to taper on the flats sides. When glueing up i used epoxy and i taped off two of the joints on the first glueup. You just bind it with tie wraps it will lie straight. After the glue dries you cut it open and you have two halves. When i glued the final two joints i coated the inside and the endplugs with epoxy. When dry plane the corners off flush and you have a hexagonal spar which is where youd be after a pass with spar guage and plane. The OP here says the weight savings is insignificant but i disagree with that. Theres half as much wood. The condensatin and rot inside issue i hadnt heard of. Mine is only 2 years on so cant say but the inside is completely coated just like the hull. I made my yard and boom from solid stock milled square spar guage and plane and that was easier by a couple steps.

[@garyfroeschner2523]

great stuff. I always pick up something from your videos. Thanks

[@robertbamford8266]

23 pounds - unexpected - though I did notice how easily you moved the unshaped lamination. I was wondering about the titebond III grab after coating both boards as you slid the top plank into place. Is a solid mast less rigid/more flexible than a hollow mast? (And everybody should have a 13’ I-beam straightedge for those big clamping jobs!

[@larrysykes8583]

when are you planning to install the mast show making sails and rigging the 12 1/2 or did I miss some episode ?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Larry, No, you haven't miss it. Currently, I'm still casting bronze parts. Last week I cast the mast partner and the coaming clips. I'll be casting a mast cone soon. I'll be doing an episode on those bronzes soon. As for the sails I've ordered a sewing machine and the supplies for the sails. I hopefully will be sailmaking this winter. Thanks for asking. Cheers, Bob

[@georgedoe257]

I was looking forward to seeing how the rest of this went. It looks like you moved on to another boat after this.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

I will be back on the Haven now that the tender has been delivered. New Haven content in late August.

[@SkylersRants]

I have clamp envy!!

[@mattevans-koch9353]

I recognized those clamps as the same as mine. When it comes to clamps Harbor Freight is your friend. Just check them for alignment before you put them in your cart.

[@CorwynGC]

Oh the luxury of having a shop twice the length of your mast...

[@dmitrade]

Oh, so many tips and tricks! Thank you, Bob! I really appreciate it.

[@christopherdahle9985]

I'm just trying to decode the message beginning around 11 minutes...I think it says Y O U S H O U L D B U... dunno, I suck at Morse Code...

[@greghawkins1025]

You're the master of the mast. Heave to & hoist the mainsail me buck-o. Grab your squeeze box (accordion) & dance across the deck while belting out Irish reels, Scottish jigs, & British sea shanties. Avast, me buckoes act lively, & shake a leg. Lay aft to the quarter deck. Steady as she goes. 20 points to the starboard bow. Red sky at night tis a sailor's delight. If I drown in the sea, will I be reincarnated as a mermaid or a Russian nuclear submarine. Don't let the dreaded Kracken get ya, me sailor laddie. All for king & country. Aye matey, that she be.

[@joshuasimons9887]

I'd think, when it comes to masts of the same diameter that solid would always be better. But perhaps hollow masts allow you to use the same amount of wood to make a thicker mast. I wonder at what point the extra thickness overall beats out a solid mast?

[@christophejournoud2773]

Hi, Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Is there a known difference between Titebond 3 and epoxy in terms of aging ? Do we have experience about it ? Best wishes

[@jerrygaguru]

I know nothing about boats and it has 40 year since I had construction engineering class, but back then they were big discussions about the engineering board correctly could be 10 or 20 times stronger than a solid piece of wood of course this depends on the construction the way out where the stress points are and with modern day construction one of the manufactured mask with aluminum, stainless steel, bronze, Graphite or fiberglass center Could give you extremely good properties more so than a solid wooden mask. Because this is something Engineering would have to lay out look at where all the stress is coming from and then put together what would be the most effective way to build it. And of course to sit down for engineer and do that you’re gonna spend $2000 to $20,000 to get the information. And then doing the manufacturing process exactly right. And these are big ones gifts and we’ve been making solid wood mask for 4000 or 5000 years And They have done a damn good job for that many years. I live on the ocean so I have lots of stores and shops to go in and look at boats and how they’re made and put the gathering the materials lots of other things being used for this besides wood so my Sumption would be that there are companies out there they’ve already done this work and give you a truthful answer what would be best for your purpose I’m just shocked that no one stepped up and gave you more detail. The heart and soul of KZbinrs people working together figuring things out and sharing their experiences well I can’t fix it I don’t know what to tell you I can do is offer my thoughts on doing a great job keep up the good work I’m sure it will be fine.

[@dc85337]

One puzzleling question: WHY? Why do all modern masts have to be round? Many are Oval Shaped. Metal is different as it can be drawn to shape and is just as strong and a Lot Lighter, but that is metal. In the Olden Days, round was good as trees were round, so they were shaped a bit and done. It also was necessary as hoops were used to go up and down the mast, so again, round was good. But yours, for example, could have just been square or even eight sided (16 might be too much) and be just as good as everything is bolted to the mast as nothing slides up and down the mast but on a track.

[@peterrichardson1270]

I think it's erroneous to say that the weight difference between hollow and solid is insignificant - it's actually a substantial saving., particuarly for an 8-sides birdsmouth spar. I think perhaps you meant to say that the weight penalty of using Douglas fir instead of Sitka spruce is insignificant. Your're right about tapering a birdsmouth spar, though - it's very finicky as it involves planing or milling a progressive taper on all 8 pieces

[@genesmith4019]

Why do you install the clamps with their handles down?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Gene, The flange on the I-beam has a slight taper on the inside (s-section I-beam). By putting the pad of the movable jaw on it the pad will adjust to the angle of the taper allowing the fixed jaw of the clamp to seat properly (perfectly flat) on the wooden mast. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob

[@guyapeterson]

How much shrinkage do you get with the bronze castings?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Guy, The shrinkage is around 1.0 -1.5% fro Silicon Bronze. There is however many variables. If the casting is very thick it will shrink more and not in a uniform way. The great part of the Haven 12 1/2 plans is that Joel White, the designer calculated the shrinkage is the plans. So all Steve had to do is follow the dimensions on the plans. One Benefit of using modeling software it quit easy to add shrinkage or calculate the outcome. Thanks for your question. And thanks for watching!! Cheers, Bob

[@johndavidwolf4239]

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding : As a retired "old school" pattern maker, I would use a 5/32" per foot shrink ruler.

[@gneisenau89]

I didn't follow one point of your argument. You said the weight difference between Douglas Fir and Sitka Spruce was insignificant. Then later you said the weight difference between solid and hollow was insignificant. I've always heard it said that weight savings was the principle reason for building a hollow mast, as it obviously is a lot more work. It seems you applied the data from the first point to the latter. And, I hadn't heard the issue of rot raised before, which is an important consideration.

[@donchonealyotheoneal5456]

I already know the answer if it's built properly a hollow cylinder is much stronger than a solid cylinder especially if it's tapered I've never watched this but I will just to satisfy my curiosity I can't wait till you build the Tinder for Arabella I hope you name it Victoria two that would be perfect for me and maybe you

[@blackoak4978]

Might want to review the way you structure your information. At no point during that initial discussion did you explain the question your conclusion was supposed to answer. You said an expert recommended a solid mast, then said that there were three types of mast construction, then brought up the densities of two types of wood without context, then concluded that solid was better... You should say the question that you are trying to answer. You should explain what the purpose of each of the different types of construction and the factors that make one types preferable to another while describing the factors that you are looking at for your specific use case. "In conclusion" you should explain why you have decided chosen one in particular by explaining how the individual factors match your need, or by explaining the factors that are relevant to your use case would make the other options less suitable.

[@philipwolf3619]

Wow ! Good thinkin’

[@robertogrossige67]

Hi ,the difference between the solid to wood composite is the composite give much resistant and eliminate the part are negative on mast work . All part of boat do a work ,all together do a work team , specially on wood boat . The mast must to be resistant to complete the work and don't have part ,inside , can don't work or do opposite reaction on work . For this reason a must empty is structurally much resistant than a solid ,because some part inside are only weight and working to reduce the strongest of must . Plus ,when the shipwright prepare the part of composite must check if the fiber of wood is linear ,strong ,with same age ,and same percentage of strong line . Because all tree growing in different way and different season condition can give different strongest . To glue is better use always the epoxy elastic ,or resorcinol glue ,the red or black . If the must is composite in two or 4 section ,the line must be from outside to inside from the bottom to the top ,glued in opposition .

[@millo8186]

such a joy watching your art taking shape.. thank you Bob for sharing.. fair winds always

[@MidnightMaker]

Sitka Spruce, ridiculously expensive. Using an I-Beam for a clamping caul, priceless...

[@garyherbertson4168]

Your statement that the weight difference between hollow and solids masts would be “insignificant” bears some discussion. I’ve build a few small solid masts and one larger birds mouth mast. Any hollow mast will have to be lighter that a solid of the same dimensions. A bitdsmouth mast with 100 mm outside dimension and 68 mm inside dimension is about half the weight. Granted that the hollow mast will need a few plugs inside the weight difference might be sunificant.

[@rogercurnow180]

Bob, how did you get your sanding belt inside out?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Roger, The belt does want to resist but with enough persuasion it will flip outside in. The first belt I used was a 3 x 18" I then tried a 3 x 21" which was much easier to convince to turn inside out. Thanks for watching, Bob

[@finstrand]

Oh that Sitka spruce! What beautiful wood!

[@adelheyd2007]

Instead of sealing the mast, I think it would be better to make some vents plugged with some mobile plugs where we can air it and dry it from time to time.

[@thesoupin8or673]

Man, you're so good at explaining stuff! Very informative. This was beautiful to watch take shape and I look forward to future videos as always.

[@rickestabrook4987]

Bob a great episode. I have to admit a little hope that you were going to build a hollow mast, just to see all the glue-up. But this solid made explanation was terrific. Have a successful how next weekend. Wish I could be there. And thanks.

[@roseroserose588]

That weight is really surprising! It weighs less than one of my sewing machines 😆

[@TheGuit1]

First video I’m looking of this channel. Immediate subscribe

[@slimjimnomad861]

Nice work there mate. About 10 years ago I made a new mast for my 28ft gaffer, it was solid with a 30mm hollow that I use for cables to mast head. I purposely didnt seal the indide but allowed air flow from both top and bottom by using a fashioned cap on top . I figured that if any moisture gets behind any fittings and could potentially start to rot, that the air flow insde the mast would help out. 10 years later, no problems what so ever. I used resorcinol glue and also no issues so far. Thanks for sharing your work, cheers

[@williamrees6355]

Hi Bob, just seen your boat building Vido on the Contruction of the mast. I noticed that you glued both sides, i was taught that you need to only glue 1 side. I built a 12 ft. cedar "stripper" several years ago. Bob wonderful job. see you next week. Bill Rees Hilton Head S.C.

[@richarddavies-scourfield8413]

Why not use a draw knife to remove the waste for the first cut? Quiet, efficient and so satisfying!

[@solerso68]

why not use of FRP tube as a mandrel and laminate wood strips around it and then glass and aepoxy the thing ?

[@abarratt8869]

I'd be worried about rot in a hollow mast. Water is going to get in and it'd have to be drained somewhere, but it is never going to be quick drying in there unless dry air is blown through. On a bigger vessel I'd worry about the strength of the mast where it comes through the deck. I'd want that section to be solid, to resist the forces applied at that point, and also so that if the mast was lost in heavy weather it didn't leave a hole for water to enter below decks. Losing a mast is bad enough but if it opens up a way to swamp the vessel too, well that could be too tricky to handle at the same time. Plus a hollow mast is probably going to be wider, which will probably impact the deck structure and also the sailing qualities.

[@rogeranderson8763]

No question that this small gall rigged boat was best fitted with a solid mast. I built a Herreshoff Marco Polo back in the early 70's and the three masts were designed as hollow tapered box spars. They were an awesome project...we sorted through MANY units of spruce to find good 11 rings per inch vertical spar grade planks....and then scarf joined the 20'ers into 55' long boards from which I could cut the rabbets and tapers. They turned out quite nice, two other builders had me make their spars as well.....So I did it 9 times. Mine, I did all with hand planes...but the commissioned ones, I purchased a power plane. Gotta say, the time spend using a hand plane was well spent, the lines of the spars were truly sweet....and it was good PT as well. -Veteran '66-68

[@Uhlan_]

There's more surface area glued together in the bird's mouth method, which ought to make it stronger. A friend and I made a 4 inch tapered mast, 12 feet long made from white pine 2x4s. Sitting on sawhorses at the very ends, I sat my 240 pounds in the center and and the spar hardly flexed. I also made two masts this way from white cedar, each just under 40 inches long and about 7/8" in diameter, for a radio-controlled schooner. They weight almost nothing though I think I'll refrain from the sitting a fat man in the middle test.

[@mikewilliams4438]

I enjoyed that, thank you (I'll save my life story for another day)

[@scottthomas5999]

Vary vary nice job on your mast!!!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻⛵️⛵️⛵️

[@randolphfriend8260]

❤️

[@ditzydoo4378]

A question if you please? I would have thought that ripping the Sitka Spruce into four "Quarter" sawn pieces would result in a stronger main mast joint than two pieces since you would be able to orient the grain for maximum streangth..

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

The spruce I have is quarter sawn and had over 50 annual rings in one inch. My guess is that sawing it into 4 section would not have added any significant strength if any. On my way to the Wooden Boat Show I’ll ask some folks more experienced than me. Good question, thanks for watching. Bob

[@ditzydoo4378]

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding thank you for sharing. Love the channel. ^~^

[@russellesimonetta3835]

Uhhh, on wharrams the plans show a hollow mast built with four pieces of lumber.

[@TrapShooter68]

Ooh! He said "Next Boat"!! I really enjoy your episodes. Especially the in depth analysis and explanation of the decisions you make.

[@horatiohornblower868]

Of course there will be a next boat. You didn’t expect him to stop now, did you? And after the second one there will be a third, a fourth, etc.

[@skeeterd5150]

Glue ups are so stressful, especially one that big!

[@robertdinicola9225]

I used to erect big tents and we used mostly fir poles. Tough as hell. We had a few old spruce ones left they were pretty beat up and old. It wasnothing for one gut to carry a 25 foot or 30 foot center or quarter pole by himself.

[@cdennisb]

Sorry, but will probably miss you at Mystic, but look forward to the live broadcast! Can’t wait to see this beauty in the water!

[@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire]

"Experts on Facebook"? LMAO...

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Thank you Bob for the video. Excellent and beautiful work as usual. Having built a 23' birds mouth mast many years ago, I definitely prefer the glue up of pieces for a solid mast. I was curious what the center of your sanding drum was made of. It looked like discs of rubber or rubber bands. Can you let us know what you used there? Have a great show this next weekend.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Matt, Yes, the traction drum has rubber bands on it. ( I meant to mention it in the video and just forgot) One could use an old inner tube, I had rubber bands so I thought I give them a try since I didn't have any inner tube rubber. Well it worked fine so I keep it. I may replace the rubber bands if an inner tube finds it's way into my life. The Drum need rubber on it so it has more traction that the friction of the belt sanding the wood. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob

[@MrUltraworld]

Wow! I'm extremely impressed with your woodworking skills. Taking that square mast to a smooth diameter with a planer and some sandpaper is amazing to watch.

[@thomasduby728]

Hi Bob, my wife and I are planning to look you up next weekend at the show. Will you have posters or other merchandise to purchase that would be appropriate for you to autograph?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Thomas, So happy you'll be coming to the boat show. I won't be selling anything at the show because I would need a CT sales tax ID. For 3 days a year just not worth the time. However, You can go to my Patreon Page and down load the drawing of the Haven 12 1/2 I did a while back. www.patreon.com/posts/56310665 ( you will need to be a patron ) You can have it printed at any office print store. Bring it along with you and I'll be happy to personalize and sign it for you. See you in Mystic! Cheers,

[@thomasduby728]

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks Bob. I did see your comment on the video, thanks for the reminder. I'll check that out. See you this weekend!

[@TheMilwaukieDan]

Fascinating. I always thought Masts were one continual taper.

[@tonyswatermaker3158]

There is another option in mast building which can be 5x stronger then a solid mast. That's a laminated one wite epoxy glue. The biggest advantage is its flexibility. Be safe and joyful building your boat.

[@paulposton3537]

Hey Bob, just discovered your videos and they have me very inspired. I just finished watching all 65 episodes. I am a complete greenhorn when it comes to boats, or boat building for that matter, but there is something therapeutic to watching you build this boat and the Aero from season one. Looks like you have christened your Haven 12 1-2 the 'Skylark'. Thank you for the thorough explanations of all the steps you use to accomplish your floating art. It may be some time but I will eventually build my own sailboat and I will be using your videos as a reference. We have quite a few lakes to put into here in NC and learning how to sail and building my own boat has just been put onto my bucket list. Thank you so much!!

[@gregorystoddard4533]

Good job, Bob. Real clear look at the pros, cons, and process.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Thanks Greg!

[@rolanddunk5054]

As always instructive and entertaining.Thank you,Roly 🇬🇧.