HONDA 500XL ENGINE

Assembly of partially dismantled Motorcycle engine.

[@robertmatthews8302]

Hello Michael, I'm in the middle of the restoration of my XL 500 R (1983) and your engine build has been of great benefit to me. Thank you for your video ! Good luck ! Bob.

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

My pleasure and all the Best aswell.

[@RUDI164]

Hello Michael, that is really an excellent video from you. GREAT !!!

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

thank you

[@akimmobassa7019]

Missing explainations, but great video so far! Thanks for sharing

[@kubko45]

super engine simply and power i have 3 xl 500

[@LaGnole09]

Bravo En France, plus personne est capable de faire ça.

[@demon2naddict819]

Hi my name is Bruce I just got a 82 xr500r and I'm trying to rebuild it .it wasn't fully put together when I got it could you please help me with a few questions I have please..and I think you did a great job ..and God bless

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

Thank you, go ahead with your questions

[@MrTubemens]

Good Job! You’re really fast. Have a nice day

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

Thank you, any faster and I would need to lubricate my fingers.

[@AliGArauz]

Sería bueno un video de como ajustar la cadena del balanceador,

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

it should have a spring, thats what puts tension, then you tighten the bolt for the tensioner to lock it in place.

[@berniemac8413]

Cool video! How do these engines hold up with time? Are they difficult to find parts since they’re 40+ years old? Would you recommend these motorcycles? And any idea what a fair price for one is?

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

Sorry for taking long. Weakest point I would say is the oil system. It doesnt have a canister oil filter, Instead its just a tiny mesh, just before the oil pump pickup, So its good to change the oil often and also pull out the mesh, located on the right side of the engine, and give remove any gunk every two oil changes, mind you it has no oil pressure low warning. strangely enough EBAY is full of parts, as long as you have the part no. which you can get from /www.cmsnl.com

[@bradwilliams5242]

You the first one I’ve seen working on this motor with high compression piston . What is wrong with everyone one else😅

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

😂

[@jonathangriffin3977]

Cleaned clutxh plates but now when i out cover back on the kickstart wont move, washer is on correct, i pull down compression lever when putting cover on, when bolts are tight kickstart wont move, when bolts are lose it mives fine, cannot figure out why

[@ThePoypol]

Bonjour, et merci pour le partage de vos vidéos. Pourriez vous dire où se trouve les repères de calage de la distribution moteur . Merci

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

The Balancer timing, On the front and rear balancer,you will see a mark on the sprocket drives, another mark will be on the crankshaft sprocket, this should be lined up with marks on the balancer chain, check carefully, your chain should have 3 marks. The camshaft sprocket has two marks,they should be horizontally flat with the cylinder head,while on the generator rotor(flywheel) the timing mark (T) should align with the mark on the inspection hole on the left side engine cover.

[@ThePoypol]

@@michaelgichukimathenge499Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse.

[@danielcarmona8491]

Exelente video muy bueno

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

Thank you

[@robertvaughn5629]

Does the fly wheel and that chain connected to the crank need to be taken off in order for the bottom case to split? Currently going through the same process and having trouble

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

am not sure,because one of the counter weights are inside the gearbox and the chain rans around it.

[@darrenwilson3732]

Thanks for sharing. My question was on the counter-shaft seal, if it could be replaced without splitting the cases, doesn't look like it? I have one that leaks, any suggestions? Thanks again.

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

@@darrenwilson3732 Am abit confused because my countershafts are within the crankcase and therefore have no seals.

[@darrenwilson3732]

​@@michaelgichukimathenge499 I was talking about the counter-shaft seal at the small sprocket for the external drive chain. That seal leaks, can it be installed externally or does the engine cases need to be split? Thanks.

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

​@darrenwilson3732 Ahh the sproket drive seal, you should be able to replace it without splitting the case, just wrap some masking tape on the spindles, such that they dont cut the new oilseal as you install it.

[@darrenwilson3732]

@@michaelgichukimathenge499 Are you sure? I am on my 2nd replacement seal, and it leaks immediately after installation. This seal has a ridge around it, that looks like it fits into a groove in the cases, and when it gets driven in, it shaves off some of the ridge, so it isn't centered in the case, its slightly offset, just enough to leak around the sprocket shaft. I hate to keep buying these and getting the same result, leaks oil. I don't have a seal driver, but use a large socket to drive it in, kinda brutal to hammer this in, maybe it is distorting the seal and it's forced in? If the cases were split, it would drop right in, like you are doing in the video. Alot of work for a small oil leak to do a complete tear down? Thoughts? Thank you so much!

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

@@darrenwilson3732 I am trying to recall how exactly I replaced the last one, i think i didnt have to split the case, but i did push it in with some silicon sealant, in your case, this being the 2nd failure, just bite the bullet and get splitting.

[@albertoparuque6676]

Eu vivo em Maputo Moçambique

[@1990AngeloS]

Nice video man... Might need your help, I've just pulled my xr500 motor out to replace kickstart shaft... Apparently motor must be split

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

Thank you! yes you`ll have to split it, pull out the 'gearbox' and you`ll be there.

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-xl500s-1979-z-usa-kick-starter_bighu0123e5z14_125d.gif

[@1990AngeloS]

Thanks bud IL give you a shout if I get stuck... So it head off barrel off and split... Before I open motor I must put in TDC

[@edwardg9695]

I put my 1992 xl500 clutch basket in and cover on just like you. The clutch handle is so loose it does not retract and only engages after half way. The throw out bearing does not extend far enough to the case. The plunger works but it seems to be too far away. Any idea what I should check?

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

Hello,check the four bolts that hold the metal plate that the release bearing sits on, the order should be, the bolt,going through the metal plate,then the spring and then it bolts into the basket.

[@edwardg9695]

@@michaelgichukimathenge499 Thanks. I think the issue is a missing cap that sits in the throw out bearing. It adds 2.5mm of reach to the throw out plunger

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

www.cmsnl.com/honda-xl500r-1982-c-usa_model7697/partslist/E++07.html#.Y01i5s-EbaM thats the Parts catalogue, check for what your missing.

[@thusharaindikamithrarathna1829]

I have the same engine model and its 250cc (XL250R) In your video, I didnt see the valve clearance adjustment... please need some advise adjust my valve clearance... normally I did it by puting a screw driver and lift the rocker arm, as can as possible and, then adjust the valve clearance using feeler gauge... is it correct or what is the correct way??? do you have any videos to guide me??? I'm Highly appriciate your kind help

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

I adjust the valves while the engine is mounted on the frame. I start by removing the valve covers and disconnecting the decompression cable if the engine has one , then stepping on the kick starter until I get to the compression stroke(the kick start gets hard), all the while watching the valves moving, at compression the valves should be closed and the tappets should be all the way up for both Exhaust and Intake. Open both the no10mm locknut(dont remove them but loosen them completely) on the EXHAUST side, unscrew both tappets to make sure NONE are pressing ,even slightly, on the EXHAUST valves, insert a FEELER gauge of 0.10mm/0.004inch in between one of the valves and the tappets. Tighten the screw(tappet) until the feeler gauge is slightly griping but can still slide out of the gap, try insert the next feeler gap size(for example 0.15mm) IT SHOULDNT ENTER. While holding the screw in place,tighten the no10mm lock nut (torque is 15-18nm). Repeat this steps again for the remaining EXHAUST valve. Once you have tightened both EXHAUST locknuts step on the kick starter afew times, then when at compression, recheck the gap. For INTAKE VALVES, repeat the process just like for exhaust, but now the FEELER GAUGE should be 0.05mm 0.002in. The process can be tedious, but repeat until you are comfortable. Remember if the gap is BIG, the engine will run with a lot of tapping noise, if the gap is too SMALL or none at all ,you might not have any compression and also the bike might be very hard to start. NOTE 0.05mm and 0.15mm are very small gaps. feel free to ask any questions.

[@thusharaindikamithrarathna1829]

@@michaelgichukimathenge499 Thank you very much... cheers🍻

[@f1reater]

i didnt notice the clutch push rod when you put the side cover on was it in the side cover already?

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

Sorry i didnt show that, yes its was on,confirmed by pushing the clutch lever arm ,on the side cover, before bolting it on,and confirming the cover pops out.

[@sterling9313]

What website do you get your parts from, and what shop manual works for this, I have one of these engines given to me as a basket project, thanks

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

I use www.cmsnl.com and eBay to get my parts, I downloaded a shop manual, although I cant remember where from.

[@ThePoypol]

Je recherche le manuel d'atelier. Merci

[@bigtejas2190]

What year is it

[@michaelgichukimathenge499]

1982