Honda Alternator Diagnosis and Replacement 2004 Accord 2.4L (I4) (2003-2007 Similar)

[@BigDog50001]

*Tools and Parts* This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. Denso Alternator (alternate to one shown): amzn.to/2zUOVZC Multimeter (alternative to one shown): amzn.to/2Llmxq8 GearWrench XL Flex Wrenches: amzn.to/34nZuCw Back Probes: amzn.to/2O155sL Autel Scan Tool (Updated Version): amzn.to/2ZCP8z7 GearWrench Serpentine Tool: amzn.to/2NPYJw1 Milwaukee M12 Ratchet: amzn.to/2MWoGKR Snap-On Torque Wrench: bit.ly/2TzsaU0 GearWrench Sockets: amzn.to/2LizMHQ GearWrench Ratchets: amzn.to/2NU5L2P The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive

[@chusunderworld793]

Is it possible to request a tutorial video on a 2007 honda accord 2.4L AC compressor replacement?

[@scullydun]

I Dnt have power to my black and yellow wire and my number 18 fuse is not blown

[@supersabrosinho]

I love how you teach proper diagnostic technique. The throwing parts culture is rampant and alive on KZbin. Thank you for your work!

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it!

[@MoniqueHardie]

My dad watched your video after saying three or so others were “trash” and he insisted I give you a like LOL you got his vote 😂

[@BigDog50001]

Tell your dad thanks lol!

[@ThabaniNyoni-cw3kr]

Why you didn't test computer controlled wires in terms of teaching an diagnosis

[@111111111Tiger]

Replaced my alternator with a Duralast 5 years ago on Civic. It lasted 5 yrs. Just replaced it again. It was covered under a lifetime warranty from Auto Zone. That was a free switch out.

[@Joeshomegarage]

Really glad it's an easy swap because Advanced sold me a bad rebuilt one. Tested everything, returned it and got my money back then ordered a brand new one online for 1/2 the price as rebuilt and no core charge. That 20 year old Honda alternator worked well for 20 years! LOL Thanks for the video

[@miguelquazar883]

Thanks Big Dog. Never did this job on my Honda. It was an emergency and had to be done before the AM. VERY HELPFUL.

[@greenpea9412]

Holly smokes you are the real deal. There's one guy I know that lives an hour from me that I would put in the same league with you but that's it. Your knowledge, the way you explain what you're doing and the camera angles make these videos as good as it's going to get. Like others I appreciate you sharing what you know and saving all of us money on labor repairs. Thanks again.

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you, I appreciate the comment!

[@ffbr67]

Much appreciated the video. My 2005 alternator went bad and this video helped. 378k and was original since I bought the car new with less than 20 miles on it. Honda will run a long time with proper maintenance, I keep a log of work I do and when I take it for service.

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks for the comment!

[@DiegoRamirez-wy3yz]

Great video. Love the attention to detail, especially the troubleshooting you provided in order to verify the root cause is indeed the alternator.

[@syedmoizhusain]

Hi there, thanks for posting this video. Very clear with instructions. I had the exact same symptoms, have a EU spec CL9, there was not enough space between radiator and the engine front so had to take out left cooling fan and used the same 3/8 ratchet setup to unbolt. With only 78k miles, I got the rectifier bridge and brushes replaced from local electrician. Put it back and all good. Great video 4:50

[@mr.nobody9630]

Excellent tutorial, what a shame it doesn't have million of views yet...best alt replacement video in YT.

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you, I appreciate the comment.

[@oriondragos5876]

Excellent video and a huge plus for breaking down the tools used. Keep up the awesome work!

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks!

[@masudanwar]

This troubleshooting/instructional video is among the best in terms of clarity, easier to follow and completeness. And as you can tell still useful as ever after five years. The only thing that was confusing was how the voltage-drop test/readings were measured, was the meter on simple "voltage" detection or some other mode like ampere reading? thanks again for this valuable share.

[@darink300zx]

Awesome thorough explanation of diagnosing and replacing the alternator. I have an 07 and after watching this I had a good understanding of the process and was able to do mine with no problem. Excellent video, thanks.

[@therauhhouse8951]

Great video, one of the best. One improvement: if you remove (unbolt and push to one side) the power steering pump, the removal and install of the alternator goes so much easier.

[@BigDog50001]

Be sure to subscribe for more tool and car repair videos! kzbin.info twitter.com/BigDog50001 instagram.com/bigdog50001/ Disclosure: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive

[@4seeableTV]

Great video. After watching it, I made sure to buy any tools I didn't have that were featured in the video. I got a flex head ratchet and a serpentine tool at Harbor Freight. As you recommended, a serpentine tool is a must. It makes things much easier. The only issue I had was with that tiny 10mm nut that goes on the side of the alternator. I dropped it twice trying to put it back on. Everything else went fairly smoothly. Thanks again, bud!

[@BigDog50001]

Excellent, glad to hear you got it fixed!

[@markanderson2904]

You forgot to buy the magnet!

[@LIFE-tb8ii]

Here we go again, ty for video helped a lot. Just left to buy alternator and replace it.

[@j.gutierrez2899]

Thank you very much for this tutorial!! You explained everything so precise. My 2003 accord surprised me while driving that all of sudden the tach, speedometer, gas and temp gauges turn off including the odometer but the car kept running I check the battery and it needed water but it showed in the dashboard the battery symbol on and the abs and the airbag on. I think the alternator needs to be changed because a few days ago it sounded really bad just like yours here but the noise went away but now I got all these problems, thank you so much again for your video.

[@BigDog50001]

J. Gutierrez Thanks for the comment!

[@MrTwille]

@@BigDog50001 how do u fix this ?

[@MrTwille]

How do u fix this

[@DormantIdeasNIQ]

Your thorough and clean descriptions are your mark! You are a pleasure to watch! Interesting that you do know the ELD is Amps (A) while it states Voltage on its label and then as you described the data after the fix you kept saying Voltage! lol ...and it was easy to see that the V on the either items stayed consistent with a 12-14+V range while the Amps stacked up higher as you turned more things ON! Time to send AUTEL a note to correct their display label !

[@lindarobinson293]

Hey Big Dog, I'm commenting from my wifes account... My name is Pastor Rick :-) Great video! My son's car died so I jumped him to get him home. the car would only run for about 10 minutes before it would die and I would have to jump it again. Once we got home, we replaced the alternator but the battery light stayed on. I'm going out now to run those voltage test and then check the fuses. Thanks for all the great info. Sure appreciate it.

[@BigDog50001]

👍

[@jayparsons9347]

Thank you for your detailed analysis. I had the same issue you mentioned and I thought I'd be able to cobble something together to loosen the tensioner. I should have listened to you, would have saved me an extra trip to parts store for a loaner tool. Those wrenches aren't really sold anywhere else. Great diagnosis to verify problem 👍

[@BigDog50001]

Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!

[@videoric]

Wow, excellent video! Concise, clear and not too much or too little. That is hard to do! Well done.

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you for the comment!

[@arthurfricchione8119]

Another great video. Best part is how you show your troubleshooting approach. Thanks much

[@BigDog50001]

Arthur Fricchione Thank you!

[@kantiusaify]

As always an Excellent video and instructions for the Honda Accord. Your absolutely great !!!

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you!

[@bmlaforge]

Thank you! Just picked up a remanufactured alternator from Autozone and after installing it this is exactly what happened to me. I'm praying that it's just a faulty unit and it's nothing else. Super annoying taking everything apart and having to redo it. UGH!

[@dieselboy7138]

Nice tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to put this out.

[@BigDog50001]

You bet , thanks for watching 👍!

[@anthonyheak3479]

Big Dog, great video. Very detailed. Thank you for posting!

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you for the comment!

[@JPcowboys]

Really Appreciate your great Work in detail 👏🏻

[@billyyoder8171]

Thank you Sir. Appreciate your videos. Would like to see what the voltage measures at the alternator connector for generator control and monitor/feedback with connector unplugged versus plugged in and back probed. This will help us know what we should see on a known good working system. That way we can tell if the pcm control is working and getting to the alternator and the alternator regulator is producing the proper feedback to the pcm. Knowing what you will see with a volt meter versus a lab scope waveform would be great. Thank you very much. God bless you and your family.

[@BigDog50001]

One of these days I will do a video on Honda alternators, thanks for the comment.

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

Very well done video! Thank you!

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks!

[@pedrobruno5578]

Thank you!

[@BigDog50001]

👍

[@rauldeleonlomeli2759]

Exelente video gracias por tu tiempo y compartir saludos cuidate mucho

[@lindaeasley4336]

My Accord is at a non Honda dealership for repair with symptoms of a bad alternator but they told me they didn't know what the problem was and that it might be electrical Told me they were waiting on Honda diagnostic tools to know for sure . My battery got to where it would not hold a charge for more than a few minutes

[@IjazAhmad-kh3hy]

Hi, Thank you for this wonderful video. Do I need to check any of the fuses if the battery warning light turns on?

[@globalprofits101]

Bad ass torque wrench brother

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks!

[@bobmedley7513]

Awesome video! Best I've seen.

[@BigDog50001]

I appreciate the comment, thank you!

[@jdere31760]

BigDog, you really seem to know your Honda's!!! I broke the alternator bolt on my 2002 Acura MDX. Half stuck in the engine block. What do I do to get this thing out, in your humble opinion? Thanks!

[@nazarettos6987]

Eventhough my alternator is good,I feel like grabing some tools and replace it. Your videos are like porn.

[@BigDog50001]

lol thanks!

[@markcarey6513]

Very through and detailed. Thank you!

[@FilmFactry]

I noticed an intermittent drop from 14-14.1v to 12.5v then back, so is that the alternator? I'm going to replace it anyway.

[@qrs_tuv1925]

Excellent. Thanks very much

[@BigDog50001]

You bet 👍!

[@Carfixer193]

Great diagnosis

[@adamaj74]

Great video, thanks for sharing!

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks!

[@mckoylach1622]

Nice diagnostic procedures,thanks

[@BigDog50001]

👍

[@philippecharest9538]

Awesome, thanks for sharing this information

[@BigDog50001]

You bet!

[@ethans7395]

Do you have any tips for diagnosing an intermittent battery light?

[@paullaws3889]

Great video. I have a 2005 Accord, is there a in-line fuel filter if so where is it located?

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you. No there isn't, the only fuel filter is part of fuel pump inside gas tank.

[@paullaws3889]

Thanks for the info.

[@hectorgalvan8674]

Thanx for the vid Big Dog

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks for the comment!

[@zioncity777]

Do you think a solenoid leak is causing my alternator to keep going bad

[@bbmd2200]

How would you explain the 14.5 v Alternator control with a lower battery voltage, please?

[@waleyefish9026]

14.5v is normal output from your Alternator. What I would do is have the battery load tested. Many times if you don't start with a fully charged battery you can't do anymore electrical tests.

[@shobud7561]

Also would it damage anything if i jumped 12V to the black wire with the white / yellow tracer , i know the wire in the top rt corner is black , but caint really tell if the tracer color is white or yellow ...

[@br00talhonesty]

Did u find out

[@kennethvalencia8196]

I Have a Honda Accord 2003. 2.4. Automatic. Need to replace the starter

[@BigDog50001]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/lYaQZqGjqbmYgJo

[@robswrenches9501]

Hey Dave, would one of those memory savers work with this model to save all of the settings for the radio, etc.? Great video and tutorial!

[@BigDog50001]

Rob's Wrenches Thangs Rob! It could be done, but I don't like energizing the circuit when doing a starter or alternator due to the possibility of voltage backfeeding through system. But that's just me lol.

[@robswrenches9501]

Big Dog50001 Automotive That sounds sensible.👍

[@tonys9731]

Good details as usual.

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks!

[@javiergarridosoler7979]

Good job man

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks 👍!

[@jayrburce5112]

We have same car but on my case..my battery warning indicator not lighting .... what's the possible problem....

[@MATASSAN07]

Excellent...

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks!

[@whitmandan5]

Good video

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks!

[@robertmirolo3755]

I have a question. I performed all of the diagnostic tests you showed. All checked out OK but one. When I connect the negative batter post to the Ignition on wire on the Alt with the key turned on in the car, I got zero volts. Does that mean that the Alternator is good but fuse # 18 is bad?? Thank you

[@robertmirolo3755]

I checked fuse number 18 and it was good. Went to Autozone and they ran a free battery and alternator test for me. Battery was good, voltage regulator in the alternator was bad.

[@clinteastwood666]

I touched alternator ground when car was running and shorted it car turned off no electricity at all? What fuse did I blow?

[@chrishoward6921]

Thanks for the video!

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you for the comment!

[@matthewbui86]

Hello Sir. i have 05 odyssey. engine on battery is showing 15v or more even up to 17v engine on with load battery is still above 15v what wrong could it be . alternator ? new battery Please help

[@antiococabrera9463]

How would you check for an open in the wires?

[@mckoylach1622]

So,a known good ELD,should show the fluctuations of voltage,if it does not show any fluctuation,it’s a bad ELD,right? And how do you test for a good or bad ELD ,without a scan tool to see the voltage ?thanks

[@BigDog50001]

The signal from the Electrical Load Detector (ELD) will change based on the electrical load (current flow) it is seeing placed on the vehicle. Usually the ELD voltage can be checked with a voltmeter by backprobing the ELD wire going to the Engine Control Module (ECM). *I posted some ELD info on another video so I will post it here too:* The ELD(A) data PID (on the scan tool) is an amp measurement that the PCM is converting from the ELD voltage signal (signal voltage at the PCM should usually be between 1V-3.5V approx). Some quick tests you can do on most newer Hondas is to check voltage on ELD signal wire and compare to data PID ELD(A) at idle (if you have the ELD voltage data PID that's even better). These are just ballpark numbers, if you are close to these numbers you are probably ok. Idle only (vehicle warmed up), no loads: *ELD signal voltage 3.3V-3.5V = ELD(A) PID on Scan Tool reading of 13-15A* Idle with Headlights ON: *ELD signal voltage 2.5V-2.7V = ELD(A) PID on Scan Tool of 25-27A* Idle with Headlights ON HIGH/Defrost ON: *ELD signal voltage 1.0V-1.2V = ELD(A) PID on Scan Tool of 56-57A* When the PCM detects ELD signal voltage that is too low (usually below .3V or so for at least 5 seconds) it activates MIL for P1297 (ELD circuit low). When the PCM detects ELD signal voltage that is too high (usually above 4.5V or so for at least 5 seconds) it activates MIL for P1298 (ELD circuit high). Some of the ELDs on some Hondas are part of the under hood fuse box and fixing it requires replacing the fuse box. Hope this helps!

[@mckoylach1622]

@@BigDog50001 thanks so much for your replies

[@joandelacruz4683]

please help my honda accord 2006 has problem; while driving at night my dashboard with the rpm and speedometer, headlights, radio turning on and off repeatedly for 2 to 3 seconds eratically especially when i hit pot hole. could it be bad ELD? I already checked the alternator and battery and its all good but there is voltage drop on positive wire between alternator and battery (.10 volts) difference. Checked the grounds also and its fine. Please help!!! thanks

[@atomiclife9900]

How much is an alternator ? And how do I know I'm getting the right one ? Because I saw some cheap ones and some expensive ones I have a Honda Accord Ex 09 V6 3.5

[@BigDog50001]

Prices vary wildly depending on location. Those Accord alternators have two outputs (low and high) and are computer controlled, I would not go with an ultra cheap one if it were my vehicle.

[@russaman1000]

recently the battery light on my 2007 honda accord ex-L v6 came on while i was driving opened the hood and it looks like the alternator area seems hotter than normal i can see like heat wave coming from that area and it almost smells like hot breaks on that area. the next day i turned it on the battery light is gone and didn’t come back on so far. i went ahead and took it to autozone they hooked up their test machine to the battery and said the battery is good but alternator failed. should i just replace the alternator or what would you recommend?

[@BigDog50001]

I can't see what is going on but there is a good chance the alternator is going bad.

[@russaman1000]

Big Dog50001 Automotive thanks hopefully that’s it i would hate to replace it and it’s not the problem

[@MrTwille]

@@russaman1000 hey did u find out the issue? I’m going thru this now

[@certifiedgodrj7130]

About how much will it cost to get the alternator changed?

[@HUMBL3B3AST]

Bravo

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks 👍!

[@shobud7561]

Hey i got a question, i have a 2008 Honda Accord 2.4 and the battery light in on. Ive check the battery with a volt meter and it only showing 12.61volts . Also ive checked the black wire with the white tracer like you do in the vedio and my test light doesn't show any power, also check the bigger wire on the back of the alternator and i have 12 volts there . Also had the alternator checked off the car and it checks out to be good ... Any help would be appreciated...

[@BigDog50001]

Troubleshooting over the internet is a losing battle. Many times a Honda capable scan tool is necessary. Information from the Electrical Load Detector (ELD), Data PIDs and trouble codes stored in the ECM can help with diagnosis. That being said, the Black/Yellow Ignition (IG) wire should have battery voltage with Ignition On/Running (if not check fuses 5 and 7 in under DASH fuse box). This IG wire turns the voltage regulator on. I would NOT jump any wires. There should be no voltage drops across ground and power between alternator and battery (if there is look for bad/corroded connectors and wiring especially at the battery itself). Lower than normal idle speeds and slipping drive belts can cause low alternator output. Some aftermarket alternators have been known to not act properly with Honda charging systems and cause the charging light to come on. Also, if the ELD is not reporting properly then the alternator may not be commanded to charge properly. After that it gets more complicated, you would need knowledge on how Honda's Two Stage and Multi Stage alternator charging system works, how the Control (C), Field Reference (FR) and lamp (L) wires communicate with the ECM and Gauge Control Module and how the ELD factors in. Maybe one of these days I will do a video on this.

[@brokenrothko4628]

Thanks so much guy, but their is a problem, I am throwing an engine light now and My battery is still running dead, auto zone checked the battery and recharged it, they said it went back to 100%, should I take it to the mechanic, I have replaced both starter and alternator over past 3 days.

[@BigDog50001]

Broken Rothko Did you check voltages like I did in video?

[@landshass2849]

After replacing my alternator, I got a P0420 code (cat. below threshold...). The code still coming every time I erase it. Is it because I drove the car few miles after the alternator have the red battery red light? The car is in perfect condition and the replacement alternator is giving 14v while the old was giving 9v and triggered the battery light. Any idea?

[@BigDog50001]

Most likely a separate issue. There is a good chance the catalytic converter is bad, but oxygen sensors and other things can cause cat codes too.

[@johnsonchan6786]

Hi Big Dog, is Jaylec SPO137542 alternator any good for the same model accord euro ??

[@BigDog50001]

I have not seen those in the U.S. so I could not say one way or the other.

[@johnsonchan6786]

@@BigDog50001 Thanks anyway, your videos are awesome and clear to follow.

[@johnsonchan6786]

@@BigDog50001 After following your video and voltage testing, I know I have a bad alternator. But there's also another problem I like to ask you. My battery light on my dashboard doesn't come on when I turn my key in the ignition on and also when I start the engine it also doesn't come on. Would you have any idea what's going on ?

[@ronclark4428]

What’s the name of that Power Tool you were using?

[@BigDog50001]

I was using an older Milwaukee M12 3/8" cordless ratchet. They have a newer version now.

[@4seeableTV]

The fancy torque wrench was nice too. These tools aren't usually in the hobbyist's toolkit.

[@abranzamora6472]

I have a 2003 honda accord and just changed the alternator. Turn on the car, when I disconnect the battery it's stays on but when I connect the battery back the car turns off. What can it be? Everything else works fine

[@BigDog50001]

If you are disconnecting the battery with the vehicle running to test the alternator, I highly suggest not doing that. It is not a good procedure to do on modern vehicles due to the numerous electronic modules in them (this test used to be done on old cars that had no computers/modules in them). Simple tests with a volt meter on the battery and alternator are better for testing the alternator (turn headlights and blower motor on high to load system).

[@agnosticpatriot]

Hi, Please help me, my car suddenly turned off while running and then when I tried to start it, it just clicks & nothing happens after that. After a day it started and I took it home and parked it, then I tried to start again and it just clicks and won't start. I jumpstarted the car and it runs and if tried to start it, it only clicks and won't start. Could it be a battery or alternator or something else? Requesting your expertise in the matter.

[@turnitupjaxel]

Did u figure out the issue?

[@agnosticpatriot]

@@turnitupjaxel alternator :)changed it. thanks for asking.

[@JNicholsKnows]

When physically removing the alternator from the vehicle. I've watched 5 or 6 videos. And you all do it the exact same way? I'm not sure what that hose is. But is there a reason you guys aren't removing? It just seems like it can be so much easier if you just move those hoses out of the way. Would they require a special tool? The everyday man doesn't have.

[@BigDog50001]

Sometimes it is better to work around a component rather than remove it. In this case, there is an A/C refrigerant line in the way. To move the line, the refrigerant in the A/C system would have to be recovered, then the line removed to make room. After the alternator replacement, the line would then be reattached and then the A/C system would have to be evacuated and recharged again. Doing it this way requires more time and most people do not have an A/C machine to use for the process. Thanks for the comment!

[@skokomurliak]

my accord got electrisity fault,looks like the alternator,but at 2:34 test mine shows the same V but with - (minus),what`s that mean?? pls help me

[@BigDog50001]

The negative (minus) just means your multimeter leads are connected to the battery backwards, that's all.

[@skokomurliak]

@@BigDog50001 thanks!

[@kennethmckee4223]

What autel scan tool you use?

[@BigDog50001]

Maxisys MS906.

[@brokenrothko4628]

No Big Dog I Didn't, I am afraid I don't have the where with all to go that deep, I fallowed every last direction to a tee and now I'm about to throw a white flag!!!! LOL

[@BigDog50001]

You might want to have AutoZone check the codes for you, and they could probably check your charging system for free too. If they can't, at the very least, I would try and do 2 simple voltage checks at battery with a voltmeter (aka DVOM). Should have around 12V with vehicle off, and around 13-14V with it running. I showed this in the video.

[@brokenrothko4628]

Hi Big Dog, I just came back, battery was reading 8 volts running, she said she could not check alternator with it that low, however, the alternator is making a strange hum this morning, in your video you had mad reference to this, could it be faulty? I will jump the battery for an hour and take it back up to them. IO so appreciate your response, you have been incredible!!!!

[@brokenrothko4628]

OH P.S. I am both throwing an engine and battery light

[@BigDog50001]

Broken Rothko Double check all connections, at battery (needs to have good connection at posts which is why I checked posts and wire crimps on battery cables in video), at alternator, and check plug wires and terminals at alternator. All of those need to have good connections and not have any broken wires or terminals.

[@brokenrothko4628]

thanks Big Dog, I will check now, it is as though my computer system has gone haywire, I am now throwing engine, battery, safety bag and abs and break light signals all at once...

[@edwardvarner8707]

12mm ?

[@seanwiggins2461]

I have the battery light on but I changed the alt and still not charging what could it be

[@BigDog50001]

Can start by checking the fuses that go to the alternator.

[@eddroid4585]

Assim fica fácil....

[@kirbytabor9956]

Why dont you just start car and remove positive cable-if it dies-bad alternator 👍👍👍👍

[@testgames4028]

I remember my 2006 accord was dying on me, or when I turn it off... it won't start again. When I turn the key (nothing happen) except very low sound click of the ignition switch. Even if my battery voltage is good... I remember even if I changed the battery.. it may start but then with a/c and stuff it will die. I was thinking WTF maybe it the alternator or starter. BUT the problem was in ( battery positive terminal connection ) as it's getting very old ~15 years it become loose even if I really tight it up... so instead of cutting that terminal and use cheap ones I just put a small screw between the small gap of terminal & battery post or lead Then I tightened up that screw. Since that time I always use screw, have bench of them.. if I ever need another one Make sure your battery connection is tight & secure

[@BigDog50001]

Yep, a bad connection at battery can definitely cause issues. Thanks for the input!

[@artsoto5459]

Great video! Quick question, my car has been off for a week, I jumped it, car started, left in on for a while, 20 minutes, I go out and car is off, try to start it, battery completely dead, could my Alternator be bad? Car is a 2005 Accord, with original alternator

[@markanderson2904]

Could be a bad alternator, a bad battery (that won't hold a charge), bad wires or connections, or bad computers that won"t allow charging (It depends on the circuit design).

[@clinteastwood666]

Where is the fuse to the alternator please help?!?!?!

[@joelethalcruz4417]

that easy uhhh. i have same engine honda element..i put 3 differents alternator new serpentine belt..new eld multiplex unit..new battery and the car still dont charge right voltage is 11.5...car dies...but if i unplug the green conector from alternator still runs on 11.5 volts but car dont dies...im lost.

[@BigDog50001]

I would make sure all fuses in circuit are good first (typically fuse 4 and 10 under DASH fuse box on those Elements), after that I would probably be looking for broken wiring/bad connections/bad ground in alternator and ELD circuits.

[@joelethalcruz4417]

@@BigDog50001 so the bcm has nothing to do with the alternator.? Because the car runs good and no codes its just the voltage dropping....other than that car runs fine.

[@BigDog50001]

The Engine Control Module (ECM) controls the alternator output based on data it receives (inputs), the main input is the signal from the Electrical Load Detector (ELD) on these older Hondas. I can't see what it is doing but based on your description and all the parts that have been replaced, I would be probably be looking towards a poor connection, broken wire or bad ground somewhere in system before I looked at replacing any more parts.

[@joelethalcruz4417]

@@BigDog50001 well thanks for replying back..thanks for the help i will be checking that.

[@adrianpilbrow]

Great video. Thank you!