Honda Rotor Removal Tips and Tricks

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Honda Rotor Removal Tips and Tricks

[@johnjkizer6399]

For those who don’t have a impact driver one trick that works great is put the lug nuts back on and Tighten them, this will release the pressure on the rotor screws allowing them to be removed easily but make sure your lug nuts are long enough, we use to do this at the dealership at time. Peace and God Bless

[@JerryRigEverything]

Dude... You have the coolest tools.

[@aeok18109]

Anti-Seize is your friend. Clean up that hub with a wire wheel, and apply thin coat. Makes removal next time a ton easier.

[@sonyyoung1036]

Thank you for stating the bolt size for those 2 holes. M8 1.25 threads/mm and confirming that the caliper pin bolts are incorrect size to try!

[@scottquick8827]

Hey Brian. Great video. In tool and die, we call those Jack screws. We design those in to lift plates off dowels. Also, back in the day when your dirt bikes were held together with Phillips-head screws, those impact screw drivers were essential.

[@condor5635]

Never had one Brian and did a Honda job the other day just used a proper Phillips bit - not a screwdriver - banged the screws several times with that and applied Kroil. Then used a normal Phillips head screwdriver and removed without any issue all four rotors with this technique. I definitely don’t want an impact screwdriver as another tool that I’ll never use or need! Great video thanks!

[@rbjoseph25]

and with the ones that don't have the m8 bolt holes, buy new rotors, cause you're going to be beating the he'll out of the rotor ( where the pad meets the disk) all the way around it. be sure not to damage the wheel bearing or you'll be buying those as well. the "slammer hammer" as I like to call it, is a life saver. but if you use with a socket on a bolt, TRY not to snap the bolt or you'll have a bad day. great vid Brian, I've been using those tricks for yes, but this will help a lot of people.

[@samjohnson466]

Good advice, thanks Brian. I did my civic brakes this summer, sprayed and used my impact like you showed. When I went side to side tightening the bolts little by little the threads ripped out of the rotor. I had to use the sledge hammer after that, darn.

[@psdaengr911]

Should have first applied penetrating oil (never WD40, which is NOT) and given it enough time to work.

[@robbiek1999]

I can't thank you enough. You have said me a lot of time and trouble in changing my CRV rotors!

[@Ratlins9]

Thanks Brian, didn’t know about the #8 bolt holes that can be used to free up the rotor.

[@robincooney1263]

Thanks Brian, very good video BUT one vital piece of information missing - those countersunk M6 rotor retention screws have a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) PH No3 head NOT a standard PH3. This is good design by Honda as the JIS resists cam out much better but the differences are not obvious. If you use a philips PH3 screwdriver bit it'll appear to fit OK but you'll strip your screw heads and/or driver bits (I've done this...).

[@grassroot011]

screws are JIS , so need to use, get and JIS Japanese Industrial Standard screwdriver bit.

[@toyotatechMDT]

Rattle with an air hammer works great to get the disc off if one is to hand. Nice video tip. Thanks.

[@brycewalker4944]

+1 Brrrrt; Brrrrtt ... its off!!!

[@DinasGarage]

+briansmobile1 when I worked for Honda I would aways use a impact screwdriver and the bolts method when I did brakes at work. I would also after cleaning the rust off the surfaces use some anti-sieze compound on the surfaces where rust would accumulate. Never had an issue with them after that. Living in Massatwoshits the winter chemicals used on the roads would not affect or make them hard to take off again after the service! Thanks for this!

[@briansmobile1]

+413_Dina Great comment!

[@roadkill5333]

As many cars as I've worked on, I've never found a car that has been treated as if the same person was ever gonna work on it again! I always put anti seize on just about every nut, bolt or spark plug, that I touch. Especially the likely to rust solid ones. I recently did shocks on a 99 Cherokee, with 260k+ miles, and the original factory shocks. Even after that rear shock fiasco, I put anti seize on the nuts and bolts, just in case. I also did an oil and filter change on it. I am positive that there was no call to torque the oil filter on to over 100 ft lbs!! That thing looked like a train ran over it, by the time I got it off! Most likely one of those highly trained quickie lube guys! I actually worked for one of those outfits, some time ago! I saw one of our recent tech school grads twist an oil drain plug off in the pan. He forgot which way was loosen! On that particular vehicle! Now, I'm not perfect! I sent a Mitsubishi Eclipse out with the oil cap off, once! But I went to their apartment, explained what happened, installed the cap, refunded the service cost, and gave a second service free, just for the mistake! I also took a write up. I could have just tossed the cap in the trash, and kept quiet about it, but I didn't.

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

Agree anti seize saves the day for the next time. I use it on my cars everywhere I can. But given the mess it makes I understand why most mechanics do not usually bother.

[@roadkill5333]

That's because dumb mechanics use it like they are putting out a fire, instead of putting on finger nail polish!!

[@route42]

This was SOOO helpful for me. Thank you Brian!

[@Mr.M1STER]

Great job. I love Hondas but I prefer the older ones.

[@therussianbear6900]

I had those screws get stuck before... I carefully drilled the heads off.

[@58gennaro]

didn't know if Monroe would pass the Fit without the screws, so didn't want to drill them out. i found Kobalt impact driver at Lowes for about $16. by the way, if i had seen your video first, it would have saved me the trouble of screwing with phillip bits. nice video and links.

[@spelunkerd]

I wish more people knew about proper use of the correct tools, like this. Too often DIY effort leads to stripped heads because of persistence with the wrong tools, which makes repair that much worse. There are sadly a few very popular authors of repair videos who make a living by skimming over critical detail.

[@Mebob2001]

HAHAHAHA nice save on the hitting the impact and the socketing going flying hahaha another great tip dude

[@warwrath115]

This video saved my entire night....i used the bolt method to push it out as banging it also did nothin...thanks again

[@unknownRC]

another great trick is to use an air hammer on those screws if they are stripped or insanely stuck! Saved me when working on a BMW

[@Peter-.H]

Brian, thanks for that trick and thanks for Making the videos!!

[@jirojosephesman8175]

thank you for a very good video...do you have?or gonna make a video for a 2003-2008 corolla ( timing chain gasket) and ( head gasket ) change because its a budget but with your knowledge shared its kindness..thank you very much...

[@Luigi-pk8mk]

After cleaning up the hub, coat it in antiseize and also put antiseize in the inside part of the rotor that rides on the hub. I've done this for years and the rotor will just slide off even years later. Good if you keep vehicles a long time like I do.

[@Ajicles]

3:05. Look at the CV! lolJust jumping

[@angelichellspawnyang2722]

Where can I buy that screwdriver thingy

[@psdaengr911]

Not all Phillips #3 driver bits are the same. If you are a DIYer and have a pre-1990 impact screwdriver, replace the cross point bits. Old Phillips bits can strip and mangle the heads of the soft JIS screws of Honda rotors long before applying enough torque to break the screws free from rust under the heads. Phillips introduced a backward compatible design in the 1990s for automatic drivers (as an ISO standard) which is much closer to the "JIS" screws used for retaining Honda rotors.

[@ssxyblkman]

Jack screw info was very helpful, thanks. A+

[@TT-dz8zf]

Does a battery powered impact driver get the job done too?

[@ianm1453]

as always excellent content! would you consider a detailed video on drum brakes ?

[@briansmobile1]

+Richtis Grin Sure here's a couple. I have more too.How to remove a stubborn brake drum kzbin.info/www/bejne/gIqQmWymgdZleJI How to replace drum brakes Tips and tricks kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoOYapymfpmCbZY

[@ianm1453]

Thanks and sorry that I missed those vids. Thanks for the links

[@nitrosport5]

what's your thoughts on leaving those 2 screws out? it was always my understanding that they were just a safety device for the assembly line so nobody gets a rotor falling on them!

[@freemind..]

I left mine out. Been totally fine.. no difference.

[@mikew9893]

It's just to keep the threads dry and rust free. In case you need to use the threaded bolts to remove the rotor.

[@Michael-fw5ef]

Is it possile to use an electric hammer drill and an appropriate bit and vibrate the rotor off? Or would the impact of the electric hammer drill damage one of the components such as the wheel bearing or the axle shaft etc?

[@jewllake]

Those screws are a pisser! Do you need to put them back on or can you leave them out? I thought since they are there, and there is two of them that maybe they also help by keeping the rotor from turning back and forth on the wheel studs.

[@TheRick2130]

i always hit the head with a punch just to loosen the rust and most of the time you dont need impact driver

[@ASEmastermechanic]

I have a noise on 2013 rear brakes Honda civic. The funny thing is it makes a scraping sound every time the tire rotates one time around. But if I loosen the wheel nuts it goes away. If I tighten the wheel nuts, again, I hear a scraping noise every time the tire rotates one time. It is also makes the sound on both sides in the rear. What the hell can it be? I don't think its the brake pads because they would squeak as I turn the tire all the time, not just one time around. Weird stuff.

[@bigmelchor]

I found that the bolt that attaches the break line to a bracket fits the threads to remove the rusted rotor.

[@bvictory5698]

I did this, I have it to where the face of the rotor is flush with the hub rim, but it won’t come off any further, it will wiggle back and forth but It will bot go any further than past the hub rim. I have tried smashing it with a sledge and it just wedges and I don’t wana try any further with this method as I’m afraid the rotor will damage the threads of it wedges too much one way. I’m stuck I don’t understand how it can wiggle but not wana come off.

[@nickolaguez]

Was that deep creep you used for the penetrating fluid?

[@briansmobile1]

+nickolaguez 3M penetrating catalyst.

[@alanack67]

+briansmobile1 I've always used 2 small ball pen hammers against the screw. Place the smaller hammer (ball end) on the head of the screw. Give it a few good wacks and i've always been able to remove it with a plain screw driver after. Impact driver never worked for me, i would booger the head and end up drilling it, Then again maybe my impact driver isn't as good as yours

[@psdaengr911]

Buy new bits. Old ones were shaped slightly different.

[@willpage79]

Thats for all years in honda m8 1.25 ?

[@ERBRSamtmann]

Brian, how about hitting the rotor around the lug nuts with an air hammer to break the rust free?

[@briansmobile1]

+RSams323 That can work too. Lots of ways to break rust.

[@wyattoneable]

Nicely done!

[@jth1987leb]

Every time I've done Honda rotors either rotor hammers off OR I've use the caliper bolts. The threads are fine and the rotor pops off.

[@williammccord6408]

Good stuff Thank you Most likely the screw is a JIS #3 Vessel Tools does a good job in this area/ field etc Only my opinion, not advice

[@dw6303]

I have the Vessel tool which has the JIS#3 tip and is an impact tool, works great!!!!

[@AlvinHanson1708]

Cool, this was helpful.

[@mauriciosaulgomezgonzalez866]

buena técnica nada mas te recomendaría .que en vez de pegarle al rotor con el martillo de acero fuera con uno de bronce por que asi ni maltratas el disco y no causas ninguna chispa en esa area saludos

[@briansmobile1]

+mauricio saul gomez gonzalez Necesito un martillo de bronce. Sólo tengo latón y una luz.

[@briansmobile1]

+briansmobile1 Lo siento, ligero.

[@SalLovesChoad]

+briansmobile1 omg you speak spanish? you're awesome love your vids

[@jtnoodle]

+briansmobile1 google translate? lol

[@briansmobile1]

+rts I blame the intro jingle to Luz Clarita. It's still mentally tattooed.

[@hgfdksk17]

Can you just use a Phillips head attachment on a drill to get the screw out ?

[@briansmobile1]

3% of the time it works on newer clean cars still under warranty. 97% of the time on the old rusty cars they strip out and require way more work by grinding a flat head slot in it or having to buy specialty tools to get it out damaged.

[@joebriggs9599]

Would the harbor freight impact driver do as well as the one you are using?

[@samwiggins5349]

+Joe Briggs hay man, i got one from harbor freight, it works well for me, got some really stubborn screws on my motorcycles, i have beat the hell out of it always got the screws out without damage to the screws or motorcycle

[@leebarnes655]

+Joe Briggs, Of course it would. I don't think I've paid over $20 for any that I've owned, you beat them to death and start over. $100 tack on price bump won't change this part of it. Essential in motorcycle work too. Every good mechanic has one just because they are so good at what they do.

[@williammccord6408]

Look into Vessel Tools - must have for Japanese bike Or for that matter Harley as well Think of the JIS screw as metric vs Phillips as standard It is not but close enough for dot GOV work Ride safe and keep the rubber side down

[@mrtoastyjr]

What is wrong with that axle? When you were hitting the rotor the shaft and boot were moving in and out independent of the outer joint/axle nut. Almost like the spring clip on the end of the shaft was not fully engauged.

[@KABUCHWA.]

i got through hell replacing the rotors just because of these two screws after my mechanic guy used the wrong screw driver and destroyed the threads.. Finally I had to weld them to have them out and replace with new screws but expensive; the sales guy took advantage..

[@molonlabe_1177]

This is why I use Never Seize around the hub.

[@MrWilliamrjh]

100% this worked like a charm. thank you sir, i wish u had a paypal address here i want to pay you for solving my problem!

[@briansmobile1]

Glad I could help! That's nice of you.

[@Nordic_Mechanic]

heat water heat water, then the punch. Never broke one. We also said F it and bought a brake drum and rotor puller, so no more risk of damaging the bearings when disk are stuck

[@gonzgarr1592]

nice job and a good trick

[@pinoyeh]

When I replaced the front brake rotors from my Hyundai Sonata, I used my impact screw driver to remove the screw, and the screw just snapped. I forgot to squirt some penetrating oil. Oh well, never had any issues since the rotor replacement.

[@heavydiesel]

Had the rotors stick on my renault kangoo van, tipped a kettle full of boiling water over them, gave them a tap with a hammer and they came right off, trick is to get them moving before the hub expands as well with the heat from the water.

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

I was told years ago to "Never Hit A Bearing" . Now we all smack them hard to break the rust. Why does that not damage the bearings?

[@robertlaugherty4914]

Great video. But where's the BFATE?? LOL.

[@windfarmer88]

I prefer that Camarillo Brillo.

[@pollydor07]

Thanks

[@ingvarriver5793]

Tanks a lot

[@darkhelmet4279]

Alert: I believe that those screws are Japanese Industrial Standard head not your typical Phillips screwdriver. People need to know this! Spend a few bucks for the correct tool!

[@mrfrog3350]

General Electric make a great tool that works on ALL Asian cars-just park the thing on railroad tracks,and strike it with a GE Dash 944CW.(google it)Works EVERY time:)

[@Prosecute-fauci]

nice save

[@aaasssppp123]

should rotate those m8 bolts 90 degrees at a time as not to seize the rotor

[@JarivLetap]

Top Tip: Don’t put those screws back on 😂

[@jason-ge5nr]

See, that aint no hyundai. They use a special alloy. its steel in an academic sense. It retains all the corroding properties, but none of its strength.

[@lagg-alot8308]

Wait 5 to 10 minutes for penetrating oil to penetrate.

[@aaaaaaaa5977]

Jis screwdriver is the right tool the size is all you need,

[@NateHigerrz]

nice

[@Aardvark49]

Your videos are excellent, but if you're going to advise viewers to use eye protection you should do same. "Do as I say, not as I do, eh?" Eyesight's just too important - it's too bad that so many wrenchers (pro and amateur alike) blow it off.

[@briansmobile1]

+Victor Sorlie You're right. I left them somewhere unbeknownst to me that day. I found them in the office.

[@florantedeogaygay2496]

Not 1.25 threads per millimeter but rather 1.25 millimeters between threads.

[@WILLSWHEELHAUS70]

I have broken too many bits on those pesky screws, what I do now is put the ball of a ball peen hammer on the screw and smack the other end with a hammer, I know it’s not safe but I haven’t broken a bit since. And no exploding hammers either!

[@jnichols3rd]

It was i seen the CV jumping too lmao

[@Johnkb2059]

l use the OTC tools brake drum rotor puller

[@charlieharper981]

If you want to give advice on brakes, try being more accurate. The screws are NOT phillips drive and are actually a JIS fastener. This is the correct tool : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BGTTSE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B003BGTTSE&linkCode=as2&tag=studiovrm-20&linkId=d0122356b77688d0155b4f670f258e97

[@newyorkerinct2821]

These are a pain...

[@user-od2xl9ys7p]

Dude... it's loose already. Just a few more drills...buzzzzzzz. Dude seriously, it's loose. Just grab it and pull it off. Just a few more drills.... buzzzzzzzzzzzz.

[@keithfoidel2333]

😃

[@therussianbear6900]

Honda rotors suck... I switch the ones on my Accord to slotted ones from Tirerack.com.

[@Mortalomena]

+The Russian Bear the slots do absolutely nothing

[@GigaDonk]

sux to be in the rust belt.