Hoop House Side Wall Construction

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[@erolkorkut9038]

Çok güzel düşünülmüş bende aynısından yapmayı düşünüyorum kullanılan malzemeler ve ölçüler nelerdir

[@rossprivate5456]

great job ,im in australia and will only need a green house for maybe 2 months a year and the rest i will be using shade cloth to keep things cool .great work thanks for the great easy design

[@teeandy100]

Great job, can you send me a plan for that greenhouse. Thanks

[@ronpatterson8751]

I wrote a publication on constructing this high tunnel. It can be found at extension.usu.edu/carbon/ou-files/AHighTunnelforStrongWindsandSpaceUtility.pdf Thanks for watching.

[@OldCanton]

Good video, very much, please continue!

[@estheranna3811]

Thank you for the videos, great job! What would I need hoop / pipe for a 12' ceiling? I have a piece of 100' x 36' x 12' greenhouse plastic. Also, what is angle elbow that you used to connect the 1 X 11/2 pipe?

[@ronpatterson8751]

Esther Anna The easiest way to raise the roof is to use taller t-posts-6.5’ or 7’ rather than 6’. You want some extra material on each side so the plastic will drape clear down to the ground. The elbows are 45 degree elbows. Thanks for watching.

[@jojo9912]

Ron, Great instructional! Thank you. Are your hip purlins 2x4 or 2x6 boards, and are they pressure treated?

[@ronpatterson8751]

They are 2x4. I tried 1x4 but they don't have enough strength. Since they are not on the ground I used untreated lumber. That way it isn't an issue for organic producers. Thanks for watching.

[@SRLowther]

Suggest using electrical pvc instead of irrigation pvc. It is same dimensions but is made to use above ground so it doesn't become brittle and you will get significantly more years life out of them. They cost the same.

[@ronpatterson8751]

I'll have to try electrical PVC and see if any issues come up for me. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@Sam-do3ms]

Great job, can you send me a plan for that greenhouse. Thanks

[@MohamedUAE]

Great job man! Q. Q. please. I have a fish pond which is 6.5mX10m and would like to make a shade for it; to prevent algae from forming in it. Is this possible with pvc pipes? TIA

[@usuextension]

I use shade cloth on this high tunnel every year. I also use a similar, elevated design to put bird net over my fruit trees. Thanks for watching.

[@MohamedUAE]

Very well done over all.

[@tonyroby4194]

Bending greenhouse hoops

[@user-ri2kq3vr5k]

Thank you for this information 😃

[@philcrandlemire]

Are those fence post strong enough for sidewalls? Did you have problems with the wind or snow?

[@usuextension]

The fence posts are plenty strong, however, this is not a design for snow. If you think you run a risk of snow be sure to support the arches from inside--I would place a 2x4 under every third rib, right under the junction of the arch and ridge purlin. Thanks for watching

[@simpletrader547]

what is the size you are building ? can you build hoop housing any size using the same principals?

[@ronpatterson8751]

Thomas Martinowsky this design is 17.5 feet wide. That way you don't have any joints in the arches. You could go narrower so your arch would be much higher, but the 45 degree elbows would be stressed a bit more. As for length it is in multiple of three as there are three feet between each t-post and arch rib. You can go as long as you can get plastic that long

[@rudygtrz]

YOU CAN SPLICE THE HIP BOARDS WITH A SCARF JOINT

[@youthnepalanimallovers9901]

Is this type of poly house suitable for heavy wind region?

[@usuextension]

That is what I designed it for. One source indicated that the average wind speed for Carbon County Utah is 40 mph. We have had sustained winds up to 60 mph and gusts over 70 mph and these have done fine for me. The only time I have problems with the wind is when I leave one side down and lift one side for light ventilation, then get surprised the the change in wind direction. The balloon effect can cause some damage. Thanks for watching.

[@tb5687]

Roughly how much did this cost to build and how many years so you expect it will last

[@ronpatterson8751]

Wolfman 420 When I calculated it about 5 years ago my costs were $1.50 per square foot for a high tunnel that measured 17.5 x 48, which included the covering. I have had an occasional arch break from fatigue, but much of my PVC is ten years old and still serviceable. The PVC will last much longer if you paint it to protect it from UV rays. The plastic cover will usually last about four years. Thanks for watching

[@richardschaffling9882]

Great video thanks

[@stevepederson1736]

First off thank you for helping our youth with your 4H programs. I used to build my green houses with PVC pipe as you have here but I found that the plastic would only last a couple of years as I found out a chemical reaction between the two plastics. On my last green house I used 1 1/2” galvanized and swedged fencing tubing for the bows and 3) 1” longitudinal braces

[@stevepederson1736]

Building with the galvanized tubing my cover plastic has now lasted 5 summers. I leave it up year around and we live in a very sunny (300+sunny day/year) . I clean the snow off at 8-12” depending how wet the snow. Had 18” one storm though. The aluminum channel and stainless steel wiggle wire has worked great for me, even with the snow load. Cheers

[@usuextension]

That is an important point. Your galvanized tubing will definitely handle some snow load better than my design. It's fun to come up with your own solutions. If you do get a snow collapse your bows will need to be replaced, so use care. I paint my PVC with exterior latex paint and my plastic lasts at least 4 years if I don't tear it. Thanks for watching.

[@simpletrader547]

what is the ceiling height

[@ronpatterson8751]

the ceiling is about 9 feet high

[@idahok9trapper470]

was wondering how this holds up to snow loads as I live in Idaho and get lots of snow , or do you take the plastic off for winter . Thanks love this high tunnel design .

[@usuextension]

Yes they do quite well in snow; we have built many of them in Northern Utah

[@ronpatterson8751]

This particular design will not tolerate snow load without significant support inside. There have been some people who have built an inside support and keep the cover on. I get tired by the time snow falls so I take mine covers off until just before I'm ready to plant in the spring. I have had a partial collapse with a surprise snow storm. USU also has a PVC high tunnel design that is about 14' wide that is steeper and sheds the snow better than this design. Check out the rest of the high tunnel construction videos for this design at the USU Extension KZbin channel and search for "Patterson hoop house". Thanks for watching.

[@bowlofrice8]

Idaho k9Trapper ideally it should be warm enough in the winter to melt most snow you would have on it but mostly the snow will slide off just make sure it doesnt pile up on side walls too much mine has a steeper pitch tho. Northern Indiana here so we get lots of show here too blows in strong off lake Michigan

[@DragonflyArtz1]

May I ask (to anyone)- Does anyone remove their plastic cover for winter? I live in Colorado and the winter months can be brutal on plastics. However I have heard that taking your plastic off and putting it back on causes wear and tear also. Of course I'm thinking that snow load is not an issue if you remove the plastic over winter. Would it be best over all to build a strong cross beam support at the top and then cover the plastic (left on) with a tarp or black plastic?

[@ronpatterson8751]

DragonflyArtz1 I remove my cover for the winter, mainly because I don’t plan to grow anything during the winter. I use my high tunnel for season extension-about 6 weeks in the spring and 3-4 weeks in the fall. Removing the plastic each year does present more opportunity to accidentally tear the plastic. I detach my plastic on one side and pull it to the other side and then roll it up and tie it to the hip purlin for winter storage. That way it is off the ground, not flapping in the wind, and less likely to get torn when you put it back over in the spring. It also makes it easier to get the cover back on in the spring. I have had other people indicate to me that they have built bracing down the middle inside and use the high tunnel throughout the winter. Thanks for watching.

[@DragonflyArtz1]

TY Ron. I love the idea of rolling it up. I would think folding it for a season would be very bad. I do not plan to grow anything during the winter. TY for giving me inspiration for some clever planning.

[@nsidibeudokpan7848]

great work, is that a plumber's PVC pipe or electrical pipes and what size are the pipes in the ground and on the roof? How is the pipes pinned into the ground? What is the length, width and height of the hoop house? What is the spacing between each pipe?

[@ronpatterson8751]

That is plumbing PVC pipe. The pipes that slip over the t-posts are 1 1/2". The arches are 1" PVC. I tie the whole thing to the ground with the rebar stakes that I show at about 5:30 in the video. I screw an eye screw into the hip purlin just below the wiggle wire track then tie from the eye screw to the stake. The ribs are spaced at three feet so the high tunnel can be any multiple of three feet. Mine are 93 feet long because that fits my farm layout. The best high tunnel width for the 45 degree angle with 20 foot PVC is about 17.5 feet. It ends up being about 10 feet tall. I have a series of six videos on my high tunnel construction. They cover from layout to arch construction, to ventilation and more. If you go to the USU Extension KZbin channel the search for Patterson hoop house it should pull up the list of all of them. These are quite rough and I need to get them edited better and do one more on the endwall construction. Thanks for watching.