Hornby Mk 1 Coach improvements

A few simple improvements which can be made to older Hornby Mk1 coaches. Hornby produced them in various regional liveries in the late '90s but these in this video are some of the Blue and Grey models that were made in the early 21st Century. No 2nd class coaches were made during this time so this video shows how I "demoted" a first class composite coach to 2nd class.
I also then weathered my 3 coaches and added some weight to them to enable them to run smoothly through radius 1 points.

[@woodysmodellingdiary]

I really enjoy your videos and always find them so informative. The work you have done on these coaches just shows how some time, patience and skill can produce a stunning result on older models. I was shocked to see Bachmann coaches are now at about £50 and Hornby £35 to £40. I used to pay about £10! Makes you realise just how sensible it is to keep updating those old models. Please keep the videos coming.

[@KV12543]

Some Hornby coaches are now over £70....the detailing is very good if you want to keep them in a display case but if you want to run them, like I do, the detail in the older coaches is more than good enough, Keith

[@maxroberts1717]

An excellent video KV, great tips on painting and weathering. Looking forward to the next video.

[@KV12543]

Cheers Max, ..............how's the C47, Keith.

[@maxroberts1717]

@@KV12543 Hi Keith, not started the C47 yet. Just finishing the diorama for the SAS Jeep, will be finished very soon, photos in a few days.

[@StBlazeyModelWorld]

Great vid and info Sir

[@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway]

An excellent job greatly improved the look of those MK1s. As we all like sibs I'll hit that sub button now. 🚂🚃🚃🚃

[@KV12543]

Thanks and welcome to my channel, Keith

[@Finnertoncentralmodelrailway]

Thats very interesting I will look into doing some improvements myself

[@peterm7548]

A less destructive method for removing coach numbering is to rub it off with a cocktail stick which can be used with a sharp end or with the end cut down a bit to give a bigger wedge. I also find that wetting the stick with saliva reduces friction and helps dissolve the numbering while keeping the underlying colour intact.

[@KV12543]

Thanks Peter for the tip which I will try on a future project, Regards Keith

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I’ve heard that lead and PVA may expand over time - but you seem to know what you’re doing!

[@KV12543]

I wasn't aware of that....if the lead balls drop out I'll let you know

[@royfearn4345]

A word of warning regarding liquid lead or, more accurately, the type of adhesive used. Many years ago I purchased an 0 gauge Midland 800 class 2-4-0 built from Slaters kit. It was poorly painted in toffee black so I stripped it and airbrushed it in Midland lake, taking days to fully line it out. I put it away in a box in my loco cupboard. 18 months later I got out and...... SHOCK, HORROR! My beautiful boiler had split and pushed it off the chassis, much in the manner of a boiler explosion. Detailed examination revealed that the boiler had been filled with liquid lead glued in with an Araldite-like substance, and this had absorbed atmospheric moisture causing it to expand catastrophically, bursting all the soldered joints. I was so disheartened that it remains to this day in this condition; one day I will repair it but if I use liquid lead it will be fixed in with Blu-tak!

[@KV12543]

Thanks Roy, I have also heard similar from another viewer. The instructions that come with the lead clearly states to use PVA diluted with water and with a drop of washing up liquid. I have tried to contact Eileen's Emporium but have discovered they have gone into liquidation so am no further forward. I have used the lead in a number of projects so I will have to hold my breath and hope the problem you had doesn't happen to me, Regards Keith

[@tomwalsh2244]

Why does the window of the second compartment in second class always have that inner window frame? Lima carriages had it too.

[@KV12543]

Hi Tom, I am sorry I have no idea, Regards Keith

[@tomwalsh2244]

@@KV12543 Thanks anyway Keith. I’ve always wondered…and still will so! LOL.

[@brucecohen3001]

The bogies on this type of model always seem to be BR1. Do any coaches come with Commonwealth bogies?

[@KV12543]

I believe some Bachmann ones do.

[@Simon-Davis]

The blue solebar is both right and wrong. Some were blue and that should include the buffer beams and buffer shanks, some were black. The one thing that is without question though is that they all ended up a grotty brown! Those roof ribs are a bit excessive, the same goes for the older Bachmann ones. A bit of patience with a sharp blade and a waft over with some weathering to the roof helps a lot, but my biggest bugbear with BR Blue/grey Mk1 coaches is the end steps. The end steps were removed in the 1960s, leaving either one or two at the very bottom for accessing the alarm gear or mounting a lamp and shouldn't be there on blue/grey and more modern liveries to prevent accessing the roof. Even the last surviving LMS Stanier coaches had their steps removed, which grates a bit when the new Bachmann Blue/Grey portholes are nearly £80rrp each (!!!) and incorrectly detailed for that much money. You can usually tell at preserved railways which coaches lasted longer in service by this, the late survivors have no end steps, and a lot of preserved railways haven't reinstated them.

[@KV12543]

Thanks very much for your very informative reply.....I had no idea about the steps on the ends. I have for a long time objected to the silly prices that are now being charged for coaches which is why I try to use the old Hornby ones. Now you have said that the more expensive ones are just as inaccurate as the cheaper ones I will continue with the older Hornby ones. I have just finished detailing a Hornby Top Link green Southern Region Mk1 BG for my latest layout, including painting the interior and I reckon it looks great, Keith.

[@NTSCuser]

It staggers me how much Hornby can charge for an old moulding worth a tenner at most?

[@KV12543]

Prices are becoming unrealistic . This may be OK for models that are going to spend their lives in display cabinets but most of us just want to run trains. It may also put off younger people from joining our fabulous hobby.