Committed Vol 1 - Dave MacLeod trys Indian Face E9

[@ianhayden]

Johnny Dawes is the Nicola Tesla of climbing, I can't think of anyone else who both inspires and also terrifies me.

[@shgp1956]

I think thia video aptly proves that Johnny Dawes was light years ahead of the rest of the World when at his peak!

[@HovhannesKaragozian]

@shgp1956 ,Dave MacLeod put up the first E11 but he passed on Indian Face at E9...that speaks volumes about Dawes and Indian face.

[@PB-sk9jn]

I think he subsequently did Indian Face, but on his own time and when ready. Not forced to by a filming crew, and that is Dave's mental strength. Right reasons. And yes, speaks volumes of Dawes to make top climbers 20 years later pause for thought like that.

[@Johnnyhumbkr]

Thanks Chris! I saw that movie "Hard Grit" a long time ago and wanted to do some climbing or bicycling around England. Hopefully I can chase that dream down soon. Be safe out there!

[@HotAches]

Not sure if that is a shunt, but Dave does often use a shunt when working moves.

[@frostydude116]

i have only just realized but i met Johnny Dawes at a local indoor rock climbing centre a few mouths ago :P

[@IMightJustBeWrong]

At 3.25 is Dave using a shunt?

[@MrSimonblunt]

I met Johnny Dawes 2 days ago in wales and I din't realize who is was until I spoke to my uncle then I met him got some pictures spoke to him and even got an autograph off him :)

[@sergiosantos7314]

Dave Macload!

[@jamesg3456]

Indian face has only had 4 or 5 accents since Dawesy dave McColl

[@davehause8571]

NOT Committed, Volume 1

[@HotAches]

Dave Hause??? it is an extract from Committed volume í as titled. what do you mean?

[@davehause8571]

Hi Hot Aches, it's a pun / bad joke. Dave MacLeod was Not Committed to sending this climb. Really love your videos and the English climbing!

[@HotAches]

Dave Hause ah sorry, totally missed your point. thanks. diff

[@jamesg3456]

Dave is not among them rather

[@Johnnyhumbkr]

What does that "E" number even mean? Level of danger, like an A5 aid climb rating? All if these different grading system from around the world get a little confusing!!! I'm sure that route is hella hard, though.Something I wouldn't even embarrass myself by trying

[@chrisofnottingham]

Johnnyhumbkr In the UK many of the routes are relatively short and so to keep it interesting they are mostly climbed without bolts for protection and climbers place protection gear in as they go and as afforded by the rock. The variability of protection means that just giving a route a technical grade doesn't fully encompass the level of exposure of a climb and ability needed by a climber to take it on. So the routes also have a "descriptive grade" that more or less sums up how hard and/or dangerous the route is, taking everything into consideration. Basically, its one thing to take on a 5c move with protection at your feet and another to do the same move with a scrappy nut protecting you 10m below. There were a bunch of differently named grades from Moderate (which is pretty much just a tough scramble) up to Extreme. Anyone doing Extreme was (and still is) pretty good. When climbers did even harder and more exposed routes than Extreme they decided to carry on calling them Extreme and just added a number. So Extreme 1, Extreme 2 etc. and this is abbreviated to E1, E2 and so on. E9 is so far off most people's radar that it doesn't even compute. As an indication of E9, Alex Honnold onsighted Gia (E8) but even he used a rope and protection.

[@ryanpringle1345]

e is extreme. e1 is near an f6a, 5.9 us.

[@bighandg]

+Johnnyhumbkr It's simple. The second number is the difficulty of the climb, for example 5a is 5.9, 5b is 5.10a/b, 5c is 5.10c/d, 6a is 5.11a/b/c, 6b is 5.11d/5.12a/b, 6c is 5.12c/d, 7a is 5.13a/b/c, 7b is 5.13d/5.14a/b, or something like that. The first characters, the number grade are much simpler. On limestone the "E" Grade stands for "Effort." On gritstone the "E Grade stands for Extermination, with potential death starting at E7/8 or 9 depending on how talented you are.

[@Jaded-Wanderer]

E means extreme, not effort or extermination.

[@Johnnyhumbkr]

+elfspicer Thanx elfspicer! The British grading system gives you the difficulty and the dangerous-ness, which is very good to know. Well, be safe, my fellow climbers!