How a Norwegian Highrise is Built

[@Mining4people]

I'm a carpenter in Norway and can explain exactly why we build the way we do here in video I'm actually from same city as this project's in. Wooden Wall Construction Explanation * Solid Wall Framework with 48x198mm Timber Insulation: Building walls with 48x198mm timber allows for the inclusion of a substantial amount of insulation material, such as mineral wool (Glava or Rockwool). This ensures effective thermal insulation, reducing heat loss and contributing to the building's energy efficiency. Structural Strength: The thickness provides a stable and robust structure, capable of withstanding environmental stress over time. The use of 48x198mm timber helps withstand strong winds, temperature fluctuations, and heavy snow loads, which are common in Norway’s climate. Why Use Timber Instead of Metal: Timber is chosen over metal in many Norwegian constructions due to its natural insulating properties, which help maintain indoor temperatures more effectively. Unlike metal, wood does not conduct heat as readily, reducing thermal bridging and preventing heat loss. Additionally, timber is more sustainable, renewable, and easier to work with in terms of cutting and assembly. While steel and concrete frameworks provide strong self-supporting structures, timber offers flexibility and a lower carbon footprint, aligning with environmentally friendly building practices. Strict Airtightness Requirements: In Norway, there are very strict regulations regarding the airtightness of buildings. All new constructions must undergo a pressure test to measure air leakage. The results of this test determine how well or poorly a building scores in terms of energy efficiency and airtightness. This score can significantly impact the final valuation of the construction project and whether authorities will approve the final certification of the building. If the airtightness fails to meet the required standards, the building may not receive approval, potentially delaying or preventing its use. * GU-X Gypsum Boards 9mm thick and Siga Tape on the Exterior Windproofing: GU-X gypsum boards protect the wall against wind and moisture. When combined with Siga tape, they ensure the construction is windproof, preventing cold air from penetrating the structure. Moisture Protection: The boards and tape act as a barrier to keep external moisture out, crucial for preventing mold and rot inside the walls. This step is vital for maintaining the wall’s durability, especially in Norway, where heavy rainfall and moisture are frequent. * Cross Battens for Ventilation Ventilated Façade: On the exterior, cross-battens are always installed over panel cladding to ensure cross-ventilation. This system allows air to flow behind the façade, preventing stagnant, moist air that could lead to mold growth. Proper air circulation helps maintain a dry environment behind the cladding, enhancing the durability and health of the building structure. * 0.2mm Plastic Sheeting as a Vapor Barrier Moisture Control: The plastic sheeting inside the wall functions as a vapor barrier, stopping warm, moist indoor air from penetrating the wall and condensing when it encounters colder exterior air. This helps prevent moisture-related damage within the construction. Sealed Joints: Taping the seams ensures a continuous vapor barrier, enhancing airtightness and preventing drafts and heat loss. This is essential in Norwegian construction to maintain energy efficiency during long, cold winters. * Additional Layering with 48x48mm Timber and Extra Insulation Thermal Bridging: Adding 48x48mm timber and an extra 48mm of insulation helps break potential thermal bridges that might form through the main timber structure. This improves the overall thermal performance of the wall, a necessity for meeting stringent building codes and energy requirements in Norway. Space for Installations: This extra layer provides room for electrical wiring and other installations without perforating the vapor barrier, maintaining its integrity and ensuring the building's energy efficiency and airtightness. *Finishing with Gypsum Boards (12mm thick) Stability and Finish: Internal gypsum boards create a smooth surface ready for painting or other finishes, adding an extra layer of stability. This step not only enhances the visual appeal but also contributes to fire resistance, an important safety measure in modern construction. Fire Safety Between Units: Between apartments and in ceilings, fire regulations often require two or sometimes even three layers of gypsum boards to meet Norwegian fire safety standards. This ensures that the building complies with fire safety codes and provides adequate fire resistance to prevent the spread of flames and smoke, protecting occupants and property.

[@Youtube_Stole_My_Handle_Too]

I personally struggled to understand most of the criticism, particularly from Steve, whose comments largely consisted of incoherent rambling. As I understand it, they primarily dislike the fragmented asphalt sheets on the flat roof. This is a valid critique, and I fully agree with them. Personally, I consider flat roofs to be the devil’s invention. Nevertheless, I believe they underestimate the amount of asphalt adhesive used to achieve waterproofing. The criticism regarding the use of timber in exterior walls stems from concerns about fire hazards and the potential spread of fire between floors, a justified fear. In Norway, we have prioritized insulation against the cold over fire safety, and we must acknowledge this. However, we have been prudent enough to respect fire risks by using exterior cladding that resists high temperatures. The interior plastic sheeting serves the sole purpose of preventing humid indoor air from penetrating the insulation, where it could condense and create thermal bridges within the insulation. The wind barrier is located on the exterior. Its only function is to withstand wind while allowing moisture to escape. This moisture is expelled from the insulation through incidental heat leakage from the interior, especially during the critical winter months.

[@ronboe6325]

Thanks! Instead of wondering why something was done they should have a local architect explain why something was done. Steve does not know the local weather and other challenges facing builders and owners and is hampered by his own biases from building in the states. The guys dropped the ball on this one.

[@paybax]

@BawlsMining4people * 0.2mm Plastic Sheeting as a Vapor Barrier - How does the interior vapor exit the home, it just gets trapped between plastic and the interior gypsum?

[@MrVidarak]

@@paybax ventilation system. The interior has air-thight seal through all walls/floors/roofs when all windows/doors are closed. The only opening at that point is the "balanced ventilation with heat recovery" system. (this gets plugged during air tightness certification tests)

[@timfish]

From the modern houses I've seen in Norway, the balanced ventilation systems often have filters too and are also linked with kitchen extraction! You can hang clothes inside and they dry in a day which is pretty unheard of in such a cold wet climate. The main downside I've seen is the LACK of humidity in the winter with heat recovery systems. By the time you warm air 35 degrees C, the humidity can drop as low 20% which is not comfortable. I've seen a lot of portable humidifiers in use!

[@KjetilBalstad]

I would love it if you did your walkthroughs, and then had the building manager explain why we build like we do. It's a very well tested and SCIENTIFIC reason for everything we do.

[@Test12066]

@buildshow, How about an interview with the Norwegian building researchers from SINTEF on your podcast as a follow-up to your tour of Norway?

[@KevinSolem]

@@Test12066 Good idea, I support that

[@MartinKopecky83]

Lovely Norway. I worked there for 14 years as a pro carpenter. I know a lot about their contruction system. Best place on earth. I miss that.

[@mariusjenssen1723]

Why did you leave?

[@MartinKopecky83]

@@mariusjenssen1723 I am from Slovakia. My family is there, I couldn't live there forever alone. Norwegian currency losing value a lot. Since 2007 -50% But anyway, there is better life. Better than anywhere else. For me is Norway in top 5.

[@nixxonnor]

Nice walkthrough. Why don't you interview the person responsible for compliance with the technical regulations that apply all over Norway (Teknisk forskrift (TEK17) and Byggforsk)? He or she has signed an official document that ensures that the design is in accordance with the technical regulations (either by using pre-accepted solutions or by performing a specific analysis for this one building)

[@12345anton6789]

When you can have over 40 degrees difference in in- and outdoor temperatures in winter time is quite essential to keep the hot indoor air for not having a chance to mix with the colder air in the insulation. Its elementary thermodynamics, hot air contains more moisture pr volume than cold air in absolute numbers. Without the vapour barrier the air can condensate in the wall when the dew point is meet. That creates mould…..

[@Seattle-2017]

The problem is in the summer when you have reverse vapor drive - where warm outdoor air/vapor driven inward - and is stopped at the vapor barrier, creating potential condensation issues within the wall cavity. I guess Norway's summers are short and cool enough that this situation almost never occurs. A better, albeit more expensive. solution is a smart vapor like Intello-Plus, which is more vapor closed in the winter and vapor open in the summer.

[@12345anton6789]

@ yes, the summers are not so hot and humid, around 35 degrees Celsius.

[@Test12066]

How about an interview with the Norwegian building researchers from SINTEF on your podcast as a follow-up to your tour of Norway?

[@matsnilsen25]

The piece of insulation you picked up to put in the outer wall was meant for the inner walls (Steel studs), it is 60 cm to account for the extra width. The piece you were thinking about it 57,5cm which will fit perfectly in between the horisontal 2'2' in the outer wall. We usually frame everything with 60cm center to center, which will make it 55,2 cm between each stud. Other than that, great video! It's cool to hear your thoughts on how we do it here in Norway :)

[@annakissed3226]

I wish I could employ builders who built to Scandinavian standards in the UK? Is the 60cm related to cabinet size in the EU. Kitchen cabinets are usually 60cm and IKEA uses 60cm 90cm & 1.2m? Is this a standards thing? BTW I live in Oxford where about 80% of people voted against Brexit. Thankfully I have dual citizenship, but being outside the EU sucks everyday. And afaik Norway isn't EU but... I annoying that LED SAD lamps & Infrared SAD heat panels have only become availble in the last 10 years. If they were available when I was 20 I would have started learning Norwegian. I know you all speak English, but to be a part of the community you need to speak the local language, which is why I am learning Portugese because everybody round here is from Portugal or Brazil.

[@matsnilsen25]

@@annakissed3226 in Norway we usually build in modules of 60cm, I'm guessing the cabinets are produced to fit these modules

[@Mining4people]

@annakissed3226 In Norway, we use a measurement system called "module" for measuring items like windows, doors, and kitchen cabinets. This system is based on increments of 10 cm, which means that 1 module (1m) equals 10 cm. For example, a kitchen's width might be 2 modules (20 cm) or 3 modules (30 cm), and the sizes increase in steps of 10 cm. If there is a space smaller than a module, such as a 7 cm gap, it will be filled with a blank piece to close off the space against walls or between cabinets as needed. We could add that the most commonly used sizes for kitchen cabinets in Norway are 20 cm, 40 cm, 60 cm, and 80 cm. Corner cabinets are often 80 x 120 cm to create a practical solution for doors and layout. For doors, there are common standard sizes like 9m x 21m, which refers to a door measuring 90 x 210 cm. Although it’s named as such, the actual size of the door is slightly different, typically 89 x 209 cm, to allow room for insulation around the frame. When a carpenter creates an opening for this type of door, they will make it 92 x 212 cm, leaving a 3 cm larger space. This ensures the door can be centered and leaves a 1.5 cm gap on each side for adjustments. The 3 cm extra height is necessary for practical installation reasons. Usually, interior or exterior doors are installed after the flooring is laid down. For an exterior door where tiles might be installed inside, the door is lifted 15 mm using shims to allow space for the tile installation. This ensures that the tiles align neatly with the bottom of the door, and a small silicone seal can be applied to close the gap between the door and the floor.

[@BraxFilm]

@@annakissed3226 c/c 60cm is due to the standard size of sheet material, but everything is basically based around it. its a system, used in the whole construction, part of NS (norwegian Standard).

[@olgajoachimosmundsen4647]

The vapor barrier is 20x more resistant than the gypsum. This ensures that moisture can more easily leave the wall. The vapor barrier must be much closer to the inside of the wall rather than the outside, so that it cannot condense

[@richardc1983]

The roof balcony drainage system appears to be a siphonic system, which relies on the outlet being submerged in water to function effectively. The purpose of the trough is to create a reservoir of water that will flow into the outlet and initiate the siphonic action. Without the trough, the drain is unlikely to operate in siphonic mode. Additionally, siphonic systems allow for fewer outlets and smaller pipework, making them more efficient and cost-effective.

[@Babatulu94]

no this is a normal drain. the square meter of the flat is determinig factor when selecting size of the drain. and he pointed to the overflow low on the parapet indicating this is not a siphonic system and just normal drainiage. a 75mm drain is enough to take away a 300m2 roof alone. an a 110mm will cover 800m2 alone. we can ad more drains for safety or install an over run drain as this project has. but a 75mm is more then good and there will be installed a service openig in the deck to have acsess to the drain later

[@jasond3918]

Love watching the various construction methods around the world. I’m from Western Australia and even across our country (more so in the residential space) there is a vast difference in how we build.

[@annakissed3226]

Half my family live in Oz but I never been to Western Australia its honestly the only thing I know about your area is from things like Jet Lag: the game. My Cousins company builds awnings & shutters for commercial buildings and the depth of the technology is a wonder to behold, a lot of which, ironically comes from Europe. I am not even in the Trade, I became intrested in construction and Design as a kid and I find all of this fascinating!

[@jpeterstme]

Oz builders need to pick up their game and build better esp since the government is pushing more high rise apartments to satisfy the housing shortage. If they build like this these apartments would sell very well. But our dodgy builders will never do this and all these apartments if they get build will be a disaster.

[@Punchdown1337]

Wrote a long respons but lost all i wrote since windows update had other plans.... But all the stuff you guys review are been studdied over 60 years of knowledge. The way American build would roten or mold away with in 2years. The climate is so diffrent with the temprature that can be -15celsius at the morning and up to 10+ in the day time. And back down to -15 at night time so the condense issue is wild here. Thats also why we have so much space between the cladding and the gips to remove moisture. Many places in U.S they dont even have air space between the cladding and zip system. That would not work at all here. If u do so its like 6month and u can alrdy smell the mold. The out side is vapor barrier tight but breath able al the way into the plastic on the inside wall to remove any trapped moisture. I know in U.S u guys have difrent ways to do it in each Stat, here in norway whe have ppl that spent 10 000's of hrs to make a hand book that we all can follow to prevent bad stuff from happening. if u follow that book the house would not even have 1 % chance to not last 30-50 years without a mold /water issue. If u got any questions dont hasitate to ask i been a Carpenter in Norway for 25 years.

[@StefanBergendahlDeKa]

What is the name of this handbook that you mention? I live in Canada in a cold climate probably similar to Norway. Would be interesting to look through it

[@Punchdown1337]

​@@StefanBergendahlDeKa You need a license to sign in. its all digital these days and only a Company have access to it. You can of course Google stuff and get answere of each task that way but the '' Company site is "SINTEF BYGGFORSK" and yes Canada and Norway is pretty simular in clima;)

[@normieloser6969]

@@StefanBergendahlDeKa I saw some other comments that said TEK17. I found an unofficial translation to english here www.dibk.no/globalassets/byggeregler/regulation-on-technical-requirements-for-construction-works--technical-regulations.pdf

[@Timber2k]

@@StefanBergendahlDeKa TEK17 if im not wrong

[@Fekillix]

@@StefanBergendahlDeKa "Sintef Trehus", a lot of illustrations, but it's expensive, like $100, while it is much cheaper (or probably even free) for companies who are members of the Sintef building research group. There is also the "Figursamling for Trehus" which is just the drawings with a small explanation. That's the kind of book the carpenter will reference. I'ts cheaper. I got mine for free when I was an apprentice.

[@trulsher]

By code at least 75% of the insulation needs to be on the outside of the vapor barrier in Norway (used to be 2/3). I believe also every new bathroom needs to be built like a waterproof unit.

[@Punchdown1337]

@@trulsher not anymore just the wet zone but most ppl still doing a 100 % waterproof unit

[@Mining4people]

@@Punchdown1337 this is correct. In Norway, strict regulations apply to the construction of bathrooms to ensure waterproofing and prevent water damage. A wet zone is defined as the area within 1 meter in all directions from any point where water is emitted, such as around sinks, showers, and bathtubs. This can be visualized as a 1m³ area surrounding fixtures like a washbasin. Additionally, the entire floor of a bathroom is considered part of the wet zone and must be covered with a waterproof membrane to meet regulatory standards. There is also a requirement for a slope from the threshold at the entrance to the bathroom leading towards the floor drain to ensure proper water flow and drainage. These measures help prevent water accumulation, reduce the risk of leaks, and maintain the long-term integrity of the building structure.

[@Punchdown1337]

@@Mining4people The floor you are correct on. The sink are not considered a wet zone any more only the bathtub/shower and only in the shower zone. If there is a shower cabinet then u can literary do wood walls. No need for 1 meter out from the shower. If u got glass doors you can fold, the water proofing can stop on the dry side of the glass doors. They have reduced on the rules lately after "tec 17" was the new rules to follow. But the floor need to be 100% water proof. And the slope need to be minimum 25mm from the door to the drain. The membrane can also be under the door and not like before that u had to have a 2" trim under the door to attached the membrane on. Thats because now we building so ppl in a wheelchair can roll straight into the bathroom. I been a Carpenter for 25 years with a wetroom sertificate. Probebly built 100+ wet rooms so as i said just ask if anyone have questions 😀

[@steffenbrygg7907]

poly on the inside is to prevent as much damp as possiable getting into the walls, if any gets inside there the gipsym sheets are able to soak it up and dry with the extra venting, thats why its space between clading and outer wall.

[@patrickkenny2077]

Isn't the Myvest a vapor barrier?

[@karlmckinnell2635]

Steve stepping up into the 15th floor like he just climbed it😂😂. Slick, absolutely love it.

[@aggiewoodie]

Something I always notice in overseas construction- Europe, Japan- is the quality of their lumber seems much higher. Thicker, usually wider boards and almost furniture grade, like it’s been planed and milled. Too much of US lumber is super warped, rough finished, knotty.

[@LuminairPrime]

American culture is all about scamming people with the worst quality products possible

[@Battlenude]

The 2 by 8 is rated C-24 i think. It also has to do with fire insulation. Theis 2 by 8 is milled or pressure rolled to smooth out any sharp corners. Which make catch fire much harder to burn them. Imo it takes longer time. The roofing has atleast to layers on em

[@olgajoachimosmundsen4647]

The spaced out facade is not only for drying, but equals out the pressure from wind-driven rain so that it cannot penetrate as deep. Usually its 23mm (laying) or 23mm plus 36mm (standing)

[@olgajoachimosmundsen4647]

The balcony is done this way for several reasons; Easier to build a frame for decking Easier to build with sloap from all directions The channel is more reinforced to protect hard corners erc Its only warranted for 20 years before you need to add another layer

[@Babatulu94]

Hi. norwegian Roofer here. so reasoning for creating a gutter with the asphal membrane is as mentioned they are building a deck on top and using the system with no gutter will create issuiues for the carpenters decking. we sometimes use dual layer aspalt membrane systems they are more secure when it comes to the connecitons and weak points, however even on single layer asphalt roofing systems the gutters are requierd to be dual layers. and full welded to the first layer. making the conections your are pointing out in the gutter will be welded werry far and are werry unlikley to fail. but yes as mentioned this does push the product to its limits and wil requre the roofer installing the system to be extra vigulante to all conections in the gutter. but gutters made of the roofing felt is werry common in norway. even when there is no decking on top. we use this system on about haf of the projects i work at.

[@beatsnbeards630]

yes. Would like to add that another big benefit to having a gutter like this is to melt the ice around the drain sooner then the rest of the roof, because of the thinner insulation, so that the drain would be free and not blocked by ice like it would with dirt. when the weather shifts from cold to warm, and snow is melting, that is when you know if your roof is tight. its the most common time for leaks from my experience😉

[@christhomas6338]

Definitely need a commercial construction series!

[@Fekillix]

14:28 the batt you grabbed is probably for the steel studs since it's a bit big.

[@ronm6585]

Thanks guys.

[@Infernal_Elf]

I congratulate you on actually finding one! Norway is the Sacred land of the Nimby`s if its fun or exiting it shure as hell aint happening in Norway.

[@olgajoachimosmundsen4647]

Did you check out the famous "art-silo" which is right next to these apartments? Or the house of culture?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Yes - it was very cool. I put a few shorts on my channel

[@annakissed3226]

​@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 steve I wanted to ask. What if they had cantilevered out a simple glass or perspex roof over that outside area protecting it and the people below from the worst of any rain? Btw thankyou for all your work on the channel, I love your work all around the north east. If I ever come home to Boston I would definitely be contacting you (when I was little we would play at the local park which had the swan boats on it & ate a Brighams Ice Cream, they were the happiest days of my life despite being a Boston Globe Spotlight kid). Hugs

[@tedbellWRV]

My first thought about the roof drainage system was what about snow and ice considerations. Being a high-rise, you can't have a situation where ice or snow can build up and fall several stories onto a hapless victim below. I have to wonder if they are using heat trace for maintaining flow of melting snow or ice in drainage "channels" - which might be a reason they have the "ditch" in the middle of the flat roof? Here at elevation in the mountain west, we have lots of snow and ice, and sunny periods during the afternoons can cause a lot of melt - even with ambient temps well below freezing. You have to be careful with your roof system, as melt water dripping "off" the roof - which can then re-freeze and build up, sometimes at places you don't want it to. all our gutters and downspouts must be heat traced to maintain drainage to below ground drain pipes (which are heat traced to below the frost line).

[@andriandrason1318]

First of its for a deck so no chance snow or ice will be sliding off, the drain is a siphoning system that's why it's built like a sump.

[@tedbellWRV]

@@andriandrason1318 You are right, the snow and ice will not fall off a flat deck. That's obvious and is not a concern. The concern is water from melting snow and ice must go somewhere so it does not drip over the edge of the deck or out the scuppers of the deck, and re-freeze into a heavy block of ice that could then break off and fall. I expect the deck has some kind of electric heat trace to keep an open channel under snow and ice for water to flow to the drains. The "ditch" might be purposeful to contain melt water on its way to the drain.

[@andriandrason1318]

@@tedbellWRV I don't know why he said it goes over the edge as that is false, if he peaked over at the other side he would not see a hole. All the water is drained by pipes within the outer wall, sometimes they have a heating wire around it.

[@LuminairPrime]

The lumber looked very high quality. Maybe the EU lumber market is more competitive than the American market and has higher quality options available. Northern building codes have polyethylene behind the interior wall because it's a cheap air+vapor barrier complimenting the interior paint. I think Steve's point is that it's bad to have TWO air+vapor barriers on both sides of the wall; so if the black surface on the exterior is a vapor barrier, then any failures allowing water into the wall will never dry. The deck having a single slope to a single trough with a single drain is simple and easy to build on. I think Steve's point that the waterproofing is more difficult and prone to failure is valid; he's used to American builders with lower standards delivering lower quality results. Presumably this building is being made by people who have a history of successfully delivering this roof deck design.

[@Punchdown1337]

The black surface on the exterior is not a vapor barrier as inside. It is water proof but are breathing so it will not let water into the wall but will let water inside the wall out. Like a Tyvek just alot stronger. If that had also been a vapor barrier on the exterior it had been a moldy mess, even if the wall had been 100% dry. Since the temp changes will make moisture between the layers.

[@virtueofhate1778]

The lumber is higher quality because the building code demands the use of certified lumber in all new construction and the local building inspectors actually do their job.

[@johnware7890]

Vented rain screen siding is great, but at 15 stories tall it presents a real danger if it is built without fire blocking at every other floor. This has Created a chimney effect from floor to floor in deadly high-rise fires. The finished façade should show venting into an out of the rain screen at every other floor.

[@einarbolstad8150]

Name of the town is Kristiansand, not Kristiansen as written in the description.

[@lurven6666]

Also sounded like he said Kristiansund

[@CharlesGrace-z8l]

I understand the trough to the flat roof. It there for a second drain. In the UK you should have 2 roof outlets to a flat roof. The overflow is too small.

[@OyvindSolstad]

PS. It's "Kristiansand", not "Kristiansen" (in the description)

[@omfghai2u]

and not to be confused with kristiansund

[@annakissed3226]

Mat or steve., Have you ever seen a ground (first) floor wet room, with a tiled bath sunken through the slab into the ground with a strong stanable on hatch that operats like a hatch between floors on a boat or ship to allow it to be used as either: A. As a seated shower with the hatch up or B. A standing shower when the hatch down and locked? The rest of this disabled & wheelchair accessesable wet room will have a height adjustable toilet and sink using Linak height adjusters. We're also planning a railing system for a rope and lift. And were wondering about fitting InfraRed heat panels? Does any of this sound familiar to you? Because any help would be greatfully appreciated Thanks

[@user-up2kz6ws6m]

Are you guys still in Kristiansand?

[@coffeepot3123]

"Americans go on Safari in the North".. * queue bongo and flute music *

[@peternilsen5134]

It's basicly 2 drainage systems for roofs. Either over dimension the pipes or under dimension it. If "under" dimensioned the system its engineered to suck water by creating a vacum. Could be the case here.

[@andriandrason1318]

Yes it's a siphoning system when full it drains by using vacuum and sucks most debris down, also why the holes are so small.

[@bobnomura2068]

Was hoping for an answer to Steve's ruminations about drain on the top floor deck...

[@Punchdown1337]

@@bobnomura2068 the space on top there are (If they done it after the book) calculated by the heavy'est rain they get in a year in that area. So the size is adjusted for that square-meter size. The hole sideways is an emergency if the main one cant keep up in extreme weather that are not common in that area. Also why there is not 2 main once is since this is so high up. Leaves are not able to blow up there in big quantity, and if it did it will have boards all over it with "tracks" underneath that will prevent the leaves to be clogged up. Also a half a year clean up maintenance will be required done by either house owner or a service caretaker by law.

[@henforli]

It is calculated to hold the heaviest rainfall. The small drain is to protect the city drainage system from overload in heavy rain by slowly draining. It’s building code in most cities.

[@Punchdown1337]

@henforli the drain system size is not to protect the city drainage..... Rain water are not going down the sewarge system.... If houses had connected it so its been always a overflow. Its 2 systems in a house a sewarge system and a drainage system. A drain system is a tub around the house also connected to some roof water pipes. And leaded out from the house YES in centrum of a city u have also a drain system for water but On this building im 2000 % sure that pipe going Strait into the sea water. Its literly 20 meters away. The size is calculated for the heavy'est rain fall yes but also the size of the roof it have to service. And thats it.

[@andriandrason1318]

Its a siphoning system thats why it's built like a sump, when the water gets to the small hole it creates a vacuum and sucks the water out.

[@Zajuts149]

It is kind of funny that the Norwegian building inch is defined as 2.4 centimetres, instead of the international 2.54 cm.

[@olgajoachimosmundsen4647]

My hometown

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

It was beautiful!!!

[@adubbelde1]

Just a few miles from Kristiansund is the Island of Frei. My grandfather was born there. I still have family there

[@Faddnn]

This is Kristiansand, about 10-11 hours drive between these cities.

[@adubbelde1]

@@Faddnn www.google.com/maps/place/Frei/@63.0760686,7.7671191,14353m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0x4613c3743194701d:0x6794d1f4dafe2721!8m2!3d63.0676147!4d7.8033522!16s%2Fm%2F0t_cj45?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI0MTAyOS4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D. This is where my Grandfather was born

[@patleung4176]

Steve’s a little skeptical. :)

[@BiasOfficialChannel]

He's jealous 😂

[@rs2024-s4u]

Waser dryer closet had no vent? Was there a vent for the bathroom unit video did not make clear? How do they support the exterior decks as roofing membrane seemed to not have any support points for decking? Does decking just lay on top of roof membrane? After terrace is decked what provisions are made for access to drains and gutters?

[@Punchdown1337]

@@rs2024-s4u washer and dryers in Norway dont require vents since we dont use gas only electric. It is a gap behind the cabinet that let the air out in the room and it is a big fan sucking all air out of the bathroom. Also aircondition vent so in newer house there is up to 3 vents in a bathroom. The exterior decking can variate but are either a tile system or wood boards on floating 36mm ''woodtracks'' . Either a hatch or a tile to lift of to get access to the drain system. :)

[@rs2024-s4u]

@@Punchdown1337 Thanks

[@colinstu]

Look up ventless dryers / heatpump dryers. These are becoming popular in US too.

[@rs2024-s4u]

@@colinstu Yes you are correct but the sales for these heat pumps in respect to clothes dryers and dishwashers is largely driven by building codes and the desire to recover heat. The water vapors and odors created in a bathroom are still present and difficult to deal with given the current state of tech. Seems better to me if one wants would be to use fresh air heat exchangers which are very efficient today and vent the discharges from bathrooms, laundryrooms, and cooktops/ovens/kitchens.

[@colinstu]

@@rs2024-s4u that's exactly what ERV/HRVs are for. These are all solved issues.

[@echtogammut]

I love Steve calling it as he sees it. I saw a recent 5 story complex being built out of wood California. It kind of surprised me, because I hadn't seen something that tall in wood frame and would have assumed aluminum/steel would have been cheaper and easier to build to earthquake code.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Me too!!

[@whodat9198]

Wood is better for earthquakes. Metal requires a suspension in the foundation

[@Punchdown1337]

@@echtogammut ye metal is the worst for earthquake....

[@KjetilBalstad]

Yeah, calling out what he see is great, only, I would have liked for him to ask the site manager and get answers to his questions. What he thought would be problematic choices are actually essential and carefully thought out and tested solutions.

[@colinstu]

You need to look up the term "5-over-1"

[@andrewdenzov3303]

Different approaches dictated by different climate zones. Norway has climate zone like Alaska. You will never build Alaskan house like you build in Texas. If humid hot air gets to the insulation bats it freezes and made insulation worthless and there’s no quick way to remove water from the wall. So they had to keep hot humid air away from walls

[@okklidokkli]

Norway does not have the climate zone as Alaska. Alaska have an Arctic climate, while most of Norway have Oseanic climate. Big difference.

[@andrewdenzov3303]

@ you got the point, right?

[@norwegiannationalist7678]

​@@okklidokkliWhile south and mid Norway doesn't get as cold as Alaska it does however have aslong if not longer winters than alaska and more snow, Most of Norway is located above northern Canada

[@okklidokkli]

@@norwegiannationalist7678 Not true either. Western Norway hardly gets snow in the winter. If you compare Anchorage with Oslo, Anchorage have longer and colder winters. You really have to go far north in Norway (Indre Troms and Finnmark) to find a climate comparable to Alaska. Only 2-3% of Norways population live in an area with a climate as cold as Anchorage. Rest of Norway live in milder climate zone.

[@norwegiannationalist7678]

@@okklidokkli You obviously don't know anything😂

[@yngvesrensen8151]

UV system?maybe!!!

[@TerkanTyr]

How do Norwegians build their highrises? Halfway.

[@james.telfer]

Who thought it was a good idea to run the flex conduit DIAGONALLY in the wall?!?! Enjoying the coverage - now you should do a review of US methods by some European builders 👷

[@nordlands8798]

It is basic rule here that any part of a flex conduit should slope down towards a box, so no water condensation can collect in the conduit. Also it is easier to pull cables in the conduits with less 90-deg bends, this is the whole point of the conduits as it is a basic requirement that any cables or water pex-tubes should be replacable without opening any wall cavities. As to safety from fasteners it is considered safe at least 3cm into the wall cavity as we normally hang 13mm sheetrock with 30-40mm long screws, meaning max 27-30mm penetration. Note no nail-plates are used either.

[@CharlesGrace-z8l]

Steve, needs to think about his preferred Zip system. Vapour barrier on the inside. Then a highly breathable system to the outside. Which works in a cold climate. Would not work in the UK. We are not as cold bet damper and higher humidity.

[@BraxFilm]

Newcastle in the UK has on average 1690mm rain a year, Bergen in Norway has 2603mm rain a year on average. Build the norwegian way and it will most definetely work.

[@Punchdown1337]

Hehe ye this system we do works anywhere in the world even in the tropical places. Its basicly made so any weather changes will not affect no matter what 👍​@@BraxFilm

[@mrtossi10]

just make the joints perfect? wtf? xD

[@eyolfthorsen3291]

this is just one long commercial fot yhe tape manufacturer

[@larrow]

Seems like the you're not educated enough to understand why those choices have been made mr science.

[@Jamey_ETHZurich_TUe_Rulez]

20:24 sign say no loitering ! (joke)

[@TheOisannNetwork]

"Vis ekstra aktsomhet for myke trafikanter" means something like "Be extra observant of soft traffic (humans)"

[@Jamey_ETHZurich_TUe_Rulez]

@@TheOisannNetwork so essentially, be careful loitering in progress !

[@TerkanTyr]

How do Norwegians build their highrises? Halfway.