how I get my photos to be super sharp

[@brittanicook2234]

I don't know if you will see this comment, but I watched this video right before a senior session and it was a complete game changer. I have been struggling with getting sharp images for some time now, so it was nice to see this "step-by-step" video. You are truly an amazing photographer, and I absolutely love and appreciate your videos!! Thank you!

[@JessicaKobeissi]

Thank you so so much! Loved reading this. I'm SO glad to hear that this video was helpful :D

[@stacysmith7387]

Jessica Kobeissi Hi Jessica, love your content, and thank you for sharing real useful knowledge w/us, you’re dope! I was wondering what kind of camera you use to shoot your videos with, or what kind you prefer for quality videography that looks professional but not crazy expensive pro prices. Thanks!

[@j05h885]

There are literally thousands of step by step guides out there.

[@inquisitvem6723]

@@j05h885 maybe so but people like it explained visually

[@przemyslalwitkiewicz910]

@@JessicaKobeissi masz może męża

[@jakeconnolly208]

For some reason if you don’t have an F1.2 - the reason is poverty 😅

[@dezmxvd]

Jake Connolly on point

[@BlakeMadsen]

Yo I thought the same hahaha Sigma Art 85mm 1.4 is best I can do

[@maksphoto78]

How much does an f1.2 cost?

[@im_Shlomi]

because i need food

[@EDCGadgets]

Buy a used 50 1.4 for 6 times cheaper and go out and shoot.....

[@MrMackanno]

"If for some reason you don't have a 1.2". Really, REALLY?

[@Ricky_Desch]

Truth. 😂

[@ginorodriguez9553]

Jajajajajaja I feel u bro

[@zacmuturi4522]

You can use a 1.4 or 1.8.. Really, really? The difference is not even a half stop...Jeez

[@woodybear8298]

What a bunch of cry babies. Get your little feelings hurt?

[@DNdavidsonsnation]

@@zacmuturi4522 you must be new in the photography world... canon makes 3 50mm on ef mount. there's f1.2, f1.4 and f1.8. So basically she means if you don't have the money to buy the f1.2 well take what you have and apply what she said.

[@Skelem0]

Make sure you focus on the eye closest to the camera if the model is at an angle, also it's also a good idea to shoot at 2.5 to 2.8 to ensure focus, 1.2-1.8 or extremely shallow and very easy to miss focus. Also make sure your shutter speed is high enough, usually 1/100 of a second at the minimum for portraits. Once your aperture and shutter speed are where you want them adjust the ISO to ensure proper exposure, if necessary. One more tip, every once in a while during the shoot, zoom in on model's face on the back to check focus.

[@Larimuss]

I was thinking this. What if face is on an angle. Wouldn’t you want the closest

[@jarvishughes]

My tip: TAKE YOUR TIME! If you're shooting portraits, you in no rush. Sometimes I'll go into live move and focus manually to MAKE SURE I get the crispiest photo.

[@EmDoesArt]

I just got my first camera yesterday (canon) and I’ve been learning how to use it, but I dont think I see what she showed. How can I manually focus? Right now the camera won’t take a picture until it says it’s focused.

[@saswathmenon3256]

@@EmDoesArt dont know if you've figured it out by now. In case you haven't, there's a small switch on the side of your lens which says AF and MF. That's autofocus and manual focus. Switch it to manual and you can use the focus ring to focus in or out.

[@Larimuss]

Except when your shooting kids. You should try shooting my daughter. It’s next level difficulty. Never stops moving for more than 1.5 seconds 😢

[@sepinahmamat5491]

nahhh i dont have enough timee... cs my friend is sukkk n when i only 3 sec slow they alr said "is this how u gonna be a photographer?" 💀

[@jaelon523]

Been watching Jessica since 2012 when I first picked up my camera, can't believe how far she's come since then. I can say to this day she's still the same Jessica that I fell in love with over the mutual loving of photography. She's amazing and she rocks and she's the reason I'm the photographer that I am today. Shout out to Jessica!

[@SirGaygent]

Cool

[@christophmunch4796]

1.Have a super sharp lens. 2. Focus correctly. 3. Done.

[@maedzee]

absolutely false. everything depends on your own exprience in taking photos, you can have a really cheap camera and still get sharp portraits! patience :)

[@Muneco454]

Superb Media Content Creator Why can’t you explain why they are wrong/correct instead getting all mad lol

[@DJ5780]

@@Muneco454 do you realize what you're asking of them? This is life or death we don't have time to he reasonable.

[@lynic-0091]

@꧁༺꧂ Nate Higgers ꧁༻꧂ No 5000 lens needed. You just need to know what you're doing, do your homework. Don't be lazy. Practice.

[@scottmurphy650]

@Superb Media Content Creator Why don't you post a link for all of your amazing photos or just stfu.

[@dragonfist25]

Why is it that the best shot of my shoot is the one that's out of focus? 😩

[@philliptomlinson4334]

time to get a camera with a higher fps and hold that finger down so you get 10 of each shot w/ a few focus points lmao

[@MKMousanz]

Phillip's advice is pretty good, however, it will fill your SDs with a bunch of similar shots and will make the organizing process a nightmare (at least that's why i stopped doing it). My advice is to practice A LOT with film and manual focus so you can eventually get it right on the very first shot. Cheers! :)

[@cliverose9958]

Some of the best pictures ever taken are not sharp. If all you’re concerned about is focus it might be worth spending some time looking at the work of some of the best in the world. Your best is probably the best because it’s not sharp!!

[@itsmetez]

Man, I do the same as Jessica but sometimes If I choose those high shutter speeds, It underexposures the image... So, I learned how to "lock mirror screen" just 1 second before the final shot and it is 100% Sharp the one AF point selected. It works fine for portraits and even better with tripod. It makes difficult the liveview of the whole scene because locking the mirror will blind the optical viewer...

[@lensbaad6069]

@@MKMousanz true.. Practice maketh a man perfect

[@peacecollectionlmc5051]

here's a tip! little bit of a hassle but it works! another way to make sure your photos are tack sharp is to shoot in live view mode, use the zoom button on the body of your camera (i use canon) to zoom in on the eyes of your subject and focus on that and shoot!

[@vayermenoviko0linixD]

PeaceCollection LMC yep that's what I do though it's not that practical if you want to shoot something fast

[@poolbum]

Best with a Sony.;)

[@irphan007007]

Yup... But static ones only

[@slorenaleal]

Someone needs to put all these tips in a book or something lol Focus Tricks for the Amateur & Pros

[@johnang888]

but for a potrait shot (usually with model) it's going to be challenging as this will be pretty slow?

[@prestondibling2102]

Another tip that could boost your sharpness; Lenses never are their sharpest wide open. Id suggest trying to close down your aperture at least one maybe two f stops. Sharpness increases a lot especially on cheaper equipment like the 50mm 1.8. Shoot that lens at f2 or f2.2 and you will be a lot happier with the results!

[@TheVideoVolcano]

The old school rule was to match the shutterspeed with the focal length + crop factor. Now it seems to be to set the shutterspeed double or more than that of the focal length. Even if you have to up your ISO, it's still better than a useless blurry picture. You can reduce grain, but blur is final.

[@connorml]

this is a really old comment so sorry for replying but "You can reduce grain, but blur is final." hit hard

[@CoreyDeVillier]

Dont throw them away though. AI is starting to make it possible to save some blurry photos. Not an endorsement for anything.

[@robstyles2675]

Also I'd like to add dont be afraid to stop it down a little. Alot of time you can get almost the results shooting at 1.8 or 2.0. I use a canon 50mm 1.4. I usually shoot it at 2.0 when I'm trying to get sharpest quality image

[@Cameraworksltd]

F 4 rocks on full frame 85 mm

[@HalkerVeil]

Single point auto focus on the part you want in focus, then recompose while holding your shutter button halfway down so it's locked. As long as you're not on a very narrow depth of field it will stay sharp. And don't rotate the camera, slide it parallel to your subject while recomposing.

[@AliAdnanKazmi]

Sharpness is also effected by Shutter Speed. Use your Shutter Speed wisely to get a super crispy image. Your Shutter speed must be double in number while shooting in Low Light Situations e.g: 50mm lens, SS 100

[@Richard_M_86]

That is not true. Few things: shutter speed does need to be high enough to prevent blurry images, but: low light does not change guidings lines regarding shutter speed (altough you could be compensating with a higher ISO to achieve it). Guide lines (if your object is not moving): without IS your shutter speed should be 1/mm of a second (not twice and not esp in low light, just always). With IS it could be half or even less than that. But your subject matters. I don't shoot portrets below 1/80th, because nobody can sit perfectly still. But weather i have a 50mm in low light or a 100mm (with IS) during the day to shoot a portret, 1/80 is minimum. 200mm i would shoot 1/100 just to be sure, but starting from 1/40 you can have sharp images.

[@Kelsie154]

Lol my Canon doesn’t even have spot AF. 😂😭 I’m more like broke af

[@recinese]

This comment is underrated

[@micaelrodrigues5821]

You can always try manual focus

[@hannyhidalgo2739]

this comment is everything. thanks for making me laugh.

[@shadysama3143]

Lol same

[@imjennrenee]

🤣😂🤣😂 this comment wins.

[@alansfo6185]

These are the factors for sharp images. A Pro would pay attention to every one of them. 1. Some lenses are sharper than others and some are designed for reproduction Zoom lenses generally are not as sharp as fixed focal length lenses. I don't know how big your watercolors are but you don't want to use a wide angle lens. Probably a fixed lens, 85mm to 180mm would be proably be about right. You can also rent a lens like this for around $20-$40/week if your camera can use interchangable lenses. 2. Since you are photgraphing a stationary object, use a tripod, cable release and if you can lock up the mirror if you are using a DSLR If you don't have a cable release or can't lock up the mirror if you are using a DSLR, use the self timer. 3. Adjust the distance btw the camera and the lens so that the painting fits comfortably in the viewfinder with equal margins left and right and top and bottom. If you are using a zoom lens set it to the middle of its zoom range. 4. Position the camera in the center of the painting. Imagine a diagonal from the upper left corner to the lower right corner and another from the upper right corner to the lower left corner. Position the lens where the two diagonals cross. 5. Use a low iso, around 100 is best. If that kills your exposure add lights. The best approach is to use at least 2 lights. Depending on the size of the picture, you could start by positioning one 2-3' from the left edge and the other 2-3' from the right edges of the picture. If they are directional, aim the one on the right a little past the left edge. Aim the one on the left a little past the right edge. adjust their distance from the painting so that the lights cross in the middle of the painting and the light is pretty even over the entire picture. If the photo isn't large you could try one light 2' to the right of the lens and the other 2' to the left. if you do this be careful that they are behind the lens front and that the lens or camera doesn't cast a shadow on the painting. 6. Find the Optimum f stop for the lens. If you use a small aperture, f16, f22, f32 you will get difraction. If you use a big aperture you will have very shallow depth of field and focus will be super critical. Most modern lenses are sharpest btw about 2 stops up from wide open to 3 stops down from fully closed. Most often this will mean roughly f/4 - f/8 on most lenses. Take a series of photos f/4, f/5.6 and f/8.0 and f/11. keep the exposure the same by adjusting the shutter speed. Then look at 10x enlargements of the resulting series. Look first in the center, then at the corners. It will be likely be sharper in the center than at the corners. If there is too much difference btw the sharpness at the center and the corners, you can try moving the camera a little farther from the painting to see if you can get a little better compromise. 7. Use a shutter speed of at least 1/50th of a second and 1/100 is a lot better. -sfoAlan

[@kevindiaz3459]

When did you get a mkIV? Not that it matters to me, just curious. For sharp photos sometimes you have to stop down, depending on your lens. Look up what the "sweet spot" is online. It's pretty simple, you just google your lens and sweet spot. Sometimes it's wide open, more modern lenses are made to be that way. Some older builds, like the Canon 50mm F1.4, they get a little soft wide open, and you are better off shooting at a more narrow aperture for sharpness. This of course reduces your background blur, so it's a balance of what you want. Also, for ultimate sharpness with ultimate blur, primes beat zooms, but that doesn't make zooms useless. Most 70-200mm F2.8 models are very good for portrait work, especially the Canon since it has no focus breathing. This means as you stand closer to your subjects the lens loses some of its focal length, so 200mm might be more like 130mm on some lens, but on Canon it is still 200mm. This is another thing you would want to know about your lens, and is easily found. If you don't do portraits exclusively and can only afford a few lenses, a 70-200mm F2.8 would be on any list I would suggest for serious use, and it makes a great portrait lens as well as just about anything else. I also would suggest looking at macro lenses for sharp portraits (by this I mean ones that do 1:1 ratio for magnification). I know they don't always have the widest apertures, but they are designed to have sharpness at even the closest focusing distance, and as a result are jsut wickedly sharp for portrait work. They have the added benefit that they often are sharper than non-macros all the way to the corners! I use a Sigma 105mm F2.8 macro for really tight shots, ones where the face of the model will be close to the outer edges. At that range depth of field is more important than background blur, since there won't really be much background, so not having a super wide aperture is ok.

[@thorgefalk3575]

this was really helpful m8! I now want the sony FE90mm Macro Lens even more xD

[@natepenick259]

Lol I got more info from this than the video

[@3aBap4uK]

Go read my comment. She missed the speed as well :-((((

[@TheUndeadlovers]

Great advise! I’d like to add, using a speed light does wonders;)

[@snowcindyharris9971]

Advice on macro lens spot on.

[@juanquispe3494]

Eminem: His palms are sweaty, knees weak, arms are heavy A lens fell on his sweater already, 85mm 1.2's a fatty

[@RTKBAND_]

You nailed it!

[@eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeo]

6/10

[@PaulliMr]

5/7

[@ramyaaaa]

omg lol. How are you so hilarious ?!

[@kevindiaz3459]

F1.2 out of 10

[@chandlerperrer9501]

Honestly the best thing I learned from this was I can zoom into pics on my mark iv with my fingers I’ve been using the zoom button and that’s it wow so excited

[@sburgos9621]

Using the proper shutter speed, distance from the subject, focal length of the lens, f stop, how you hold the camera and enabling vibration reduction on your camera and or lens are all very important factors. After a nature shoot I did recently using a 500mm lens I have become obsessed with focus. I had some amazing shots that shine even more because the focus and I had some other shots that were ruined because I was more focused on capturing the moving subject in the right moment. I also learned that an f 5.6 when you are using a very long lens is not the same as using an f5.6 with a shorter lens, which was very surprising to me since I know that the closer you are to your subject the thinner the focus range will be. With long lenses however the depth of field becomes more shallow. I recently shot a concert for a friend of mine who is a director and a mutual friend who was present (VIDEOGRAPHER) suggested I lower my shutter speed when I expressed to him how the poor lighting forced me to shoot at iso3200 at which point I told him that I am shooting at that speed because the subjects are moving. Had I taken his advice I could have maybe shot at a better iso but almost every picture would have been blurry. So it's a give and take between all the factors you are facing during your shoot. If focus is your primary concern, and it should be, I would recommend studying all the ways the things I listed in the first sentence effect focus and in what circumstance you should focus on one or several of those factors more than the other(s).

[@josecolon8143]

To get sharp focus each time there are a lot more options that can be used together, waaaaay more, but hey you introduced them to look into it! Keep plane of focus parallel to the subject, use spot metering, shot in burst, use a good autofocus selection, hold your breath, don’t press the shutter button (squeeze it) and don’t do it with the tip of the finger, be calm, use a fast shutter speed, shoot in well lit areas or use a strobe (even a speed light will do), and take it slow (but not too slow). Keep your elbows closed to your body and spread your legs shoulder width apart ( in other words get a tripod stand like body position).

[@kosinda]

Agree.

[@TheMPTV]

well this video seems quickly put together, shes late for her yoga class

[@lylestavast7652]

metering mode means nothing to focus issues. maybe you meant Canon's spot focusing option ?

[@josecolon8143]

Lyle Stavast metering does help focus, if you meter toward mid tone your photo will acquire focus better and faster

[@rondashelton8361]

I've been a successful photographer for 8 yrs and have never used a prime lens. My favs have been the 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8. But....I decided to purchase the Canon 50 1.2. The focus was hit & miss. Until I watched this video tonight. I was using Spot AF but with 1 pt. Your suggestion to use 15 pts was exactly what I needed for beautiful sharp images! Such a simple adjustment has made a world of difference. the 50 wide open is now my new fav....thank you!

[@robertloconte2312]

I never used a 50mm lens when I shoot portraits. I always use a telephoto lens like a 105mm, 135mm or a 200mm. Shooting with a telephoto lens will compact the persons features and is more appealing. I like to shoot with an F-stop of 1.2 or 1.4 or even 2.8 so I can control the depth of field of the image. When shooting portraits or head shot you want the model to stand out from the background, not to blend in. The wider the lens opening is the shallower the depth of field is. The smaller the opening of F stop is (like f8, f16 or f22) the more in focus the whole image is. Also you need to know how the ISO will effect the focus - to low and your images can also be soft.

[@bradleybalsters6070]

Robert LoConte Why would a low ISO make your image softer??

[@robertloconte2312]

@@bradleybalsters6070 Because to low of an asa like 100 needs more light. I would use an asa of 100 when it is bright outside with no clouds. Now if it’s cloudy and you have your asa at 100 you might need to slow down the shutter to let more light. To slow of a shutter speed might cause movement when taking the photo and result in a soft or blurry image.

[@janinesequeira8341]

I love your photos... I want to become a professional photographer! You're such an inspiration. Thanks for posting this video! 📷❤︎

[@joshuamallett3424]

Janine Sequeira Goodluck!!!

[@MKMousanz]

Best wishes! Keep taking photo after photo and don't give up! :)

[@finallyanime]

One thing not sure if you’re aware of but the most important thing I think you missed besides what you mentioned is that points of contrast especially lines or sharp gradation changes are the most important places to go to for focusing the ACTUAL focus point. Because many people have dark dark eyes & focusing on the pupil as many do might not work. Talking about anticipating where the viewers eyes are going next! Also you probably should’ve touched on glass & proper aperture settings. You started the vid as if everyone’s glass wide open is sharp & don’t mention sweet spots, closing down aperture...like there’s so much missing - not saying in a bad way but if you’re gonna make it complete for beginners then make it really complete. What about people who don’t use canon, what are their focusing methods called? Proper conditions for sharp shots, as in lighting, reciprocal rule...how reciprocal rule applies to long glass.... Just saying as constructive Criticism Thanks for the vid though! (Not sarcastic)

[@gabriellewilliams6133]

What do you mean by points of contrast? Im not sure where to focus based on your comment

[@stephenwelham]

Hi as retired wedding and portrait photographer the creative apertures are between f 2.8 - f 5.6 studio work F 8 these are based on making your filters and with out for studio work F 8 gives you optimal sharpness for children and adults when shooting wide apertures for a professional result when every thing is hanging on the result a triple offers the best result

[@JustFocus._]

You can also try shooting in live view! The contrast based AF will be more accurate than the phase detect AF the camera has

[@TheLumpRulz]

New to photography. Started taking pics with my 12 year old who got me interested. She definitely has a much better eye. Your videos are a huge help. So thank you.

[@DIYholic]

Nobody will probably read this but I hope you have a great day today!! ☺️💛

[@JessicaKobeissi]

I hope you have a great day too

[@suelee1329]

Have a wonderful day!

[@jaguarblanco79]

I read it!!

[@GreenRC24]

I had anal this morning so my day is going wonderful, thanks!

[@candy2325]

GreenRC24 waaayyyy too much info

[@directedbylola]

Jessica is so precious 🥺

[@GamingWithShadow]

Eye-Autofocus Sony Squad ayyyyy

[@cj64films]

GamingWithShadow yeah boi

[@antonydritsas4885]

Sony a7iii here 🔥🔥🔥🔥

[@JeremySry]

LOL right, not even fair anymore haha

[@mixxinmel]

Coming from Canon. Sony A7iii is the shit. One button setup and inner body stabilization on any lens. KILLER

[@cj64films]

antony dritsas Squad Up

[@southbaycommuter]

My "pro tip" for getting sharper images: Sold both my obsolete Canon bodies (5DMarkIII & M4) and Canon glass on CL. Bought Sony A7R3 and 7III with various GM lenses. Mapped "eyeAF" to select button *middle of wheel." All my portraits now sharp AF. Done. ༼♥ل͜♥༽

[@dragzluard47]

only a7III can do this right if i buy a7II?

[@southbaycommuter]

ahmad zaim As of right now, I am unsure about the 7ii, but the 7R2 does have eyeAF. If you were trying to save a little money, I would urge you to consider buying a used a7R2 vs the 7ii. More MPs, sharper resolution, somewhat better AF overall. And although both Nikon and Canon have tried to copy Sony’s eyeAF with their recent release of the Z and R camera bodies, they just don’t work the same, and definitely not under all AF modes like with Sony’s most recent 7’3 bodies. But in the interest of full disclosure, eyeAF doesn’t work well with “squinty eyed” people -like with me, my eyes are very squinty (very almond shaped) so eyeAF can’t easily target the contrast between my iris and sclera. Cheers!

[@robstyles2675]

Laziness 😆😆

[@juanquispe3494]

One of my favorite options on the Canon 5D IV is "AF menu Nr 4" -> "Orientation linked AF point" -> "Separate AF pts: Pt only" If my camera is in a horizontal position, I take a shot with my chosen AF point being the top one in the middle, but then I move my camera in a vertical position (camera grip at the bottom), move the af point at the bottom, take another shot, move the camera back in the horizontal position, normally my AF point would be now somewhere to right (vertical bottom = horizontal right), but because of "Separate AF pts: Pt only" the camera remembered the last time I had my camera in a horizontal position and automatically selects this AF point, the top one in the middle. Looking at Jessica's AF menu there is no love from her for this option. :(

[@SethGardnerVlogs]

The audio sounds so much better! Wondering if you upgraded? Loved the video!

[@peoplez129]

I think the main reason people end up with focus problems is their body is swaying and they don't realize it. You can steady the camera all you want, but your legs are going to sway unless your back is against something. You really have to crouch/tuck a little in order to reduce sway in the legs. I see your technique, and you tend to hunch forward, which is not going to reduce your sway. Your back will constantly cause jittering/shaking from that position because you're basically hanging your torso over your hips. You need to be completely vertical, then just crouch a bit. It's better for your back too. Also, always put one leg in front and one leg in back while crouching, that will better brace you and allow you to put foot pressure in either direction to basically wedge yourself steady. That way if you do sway, you're going to sway side to side rather than front and back, and it allows more control over your front/back movement and to move front or back quicker. Side to side sway might alter your framing a little, but it won't really alter your focus like a front and back sway will.

[@ArjenJongeling]

If you aim your spot focus point (I always have it in the center) to the eye and then make your composition, there’s always half a second or so between focussing and taking the shot. I find that when the model moves a few centimetres the eye can get out of focus. Even on 2.8. So lately I tend to shoot on 3.5 or 4.0 to be safe.

[@toshiro252]

Don't remember where I heard this tip from, but if you're worried about whether or not the eye is in focus after you take the shot, try stopping the aperture down a little bit to maybe f2 or even f2.8. You still get the bokeh and you get more of the face in focus because your DOF is deeper than if you're shooting at f1.8 and below

[@yahirfilms1380]

Dang she really uploading at 6am

[@JessicaKobeissi]

Scheduled upload, haha! Recorded it a few days ago though :P

[@therealdavidleong]

only in one time zone

[@drewkocak]

ay boiiiiiii

[@yahirfilms1380]

@@drewkocak OMG 😂

[@toesand1992]

@@JessicaKobeissi what camera are you using.

[@djbslowmoney1]

Wow love her professionalism great job

[@HSNVlogs]

Your quality is unreal - loving the content 🙌

[@JessicaKobeissi]

Thank you so much :)

[@shilaramli5604]

This really helps. Thanks. I been having problems with focusing the object using potrait 50mm 1.4

[@spearemint4335]

Short Guide: Get a Sony Camera and use Eye-AF - Done.

[@hiawrj]

Yayayayaya that's what I use. :D I just hold AEL and frame my subject however I like and boom. Doesn't matter if the subject is far away or close or moving towards me, away from me or side to side. It just works. A9 baby.

[@1chai]

Having several Canon lenses makes the switch to a Sony camera too expensive.

[@hiawrj]

@@1chai Sell them all and buy the ones you use the most. Or wait for a proper Canon Mirrorless. It will get here eventually - no need to rush. :)

[@spearemint4335]

@@hiawrj same with my a7r3 :D very nice

[@mediaaddict3997]

@@1chai Adapters..

[@noutram1000]

I can save you 5 minutes here -shoot manual focus and use the 5x>10x zoom feature assigned to a function button. I use an f/0.95 lens btw. -If for some reason you don't have f/0.95 you could use a f/1.2 or above...

[@afmanalac11]

Try not to go any slower than 1/160 as your shutter speed as well to get rid of motion blur.

[@Maddy_Clare]

I have a Canon camera as well. I did an internship with a photographer this summer learning how to edit photos in both Lightroom and Photoshop. It is not easy but I would like to learn how to use my camera because when I have a job after I graduate next spring I would like to have more experience. My major is communications with a concentration in both video and audio production. I love production work. My college does not have photography so I guess I will have to learn all of this on my own. I would love to get proficient with photography and editing.

[@kevinh6220]

Thank you so much Jessica for your awesome videos. I’ve been inspired by your work to get back into portrait photography. I’ve learned to use Lightroom and have become creative with model poses. I was recently wondering about how I could get sharper photos and, coincidentally, you posted this video. Thanks again!

[@joncothranphotography9375]

Shooting with the 5D iv helps greatly also... That thing just works and works well! I love mine. Thanks for your thoughts!

[@Bamsambam33]

Having a fast enough shutter speed is crucial I dot know why this wasn’t mentioned

[@JerryMac1125]

Shutter speed has nothing to do with focus, motion blur can be related to shutter speed 😉

[@Bamsambam33]

@@JerryMac1125 exactly having a low shutter speed in proportion to your lens can cause blur, with motion blur there's no point of having accurate focus

[@sigmaoctantis_nz]

@@Bamsambam33 If you are using a fast lens as in these examples, it's unlikely shutter speed will ever be an issue even at base ISO unless you're shooting in a very dark area.

[@jblln9667]

Is it possible to shoot group photos using only 50mm lens? Around 5-6 person? Any tips? I hope you’ll reply🥺

[@jblln9667]

@@fredbloggs545 thank you so much 😭❤️

[@jaclyntroiano8764]

Extremely thankful for this because my assignment this week is taking portraits! So glad I subbed :)

[@dongordonphoto]

For portraits (headshots) - I shoot with my 1DX MKII and 70-200 F 2.8 IS MKII or my 100mm F2.8 IS macro with profoto A1 - I also use spot auto focus and I ensure the focus point is on the eyes and my shots are sharp every time. In the studio I use my Profoto D2 1000 and D2 500! For a full length shot I use my 24-70mm F 2.8 MKII or 11-24mm (making sure the subject is in the right place of course) if I want more in the frame!!

[@eugeniam2443]

i need you to do an advanced selfie photoshoot pleaseee

[@b991228]

With a shallow DOF lens if you have a subject who has problems with swaying back and forth out of the focal plane either sit her down or at last resort use AI SERVO to track her movements. Also It never hurts to take backup shots to guarantee the focus is nailed.

[@christopherw179]

My biggest problem... hand shake. I've got to start shooting less pretty models lol

[@Jakiyyyyy]

I agreed with you lol

[@vasiapupkin3963]

Stop drinking 🍻 :-) ahh ha ha ha

[@Petramojomusic]

I love your fun personality!I struggle with Canon Eos R and Canon 24mm 1.4 that was so expensive and I am a live streamer. Just not sharp as I see other streamers. I have no idea what else to do. I use continuous focus because of video making. But this video is amazing as all your channel and as I said you are so fun and could be even stand up comedian or actress. Thank you!

[@artsmodelstation9396]

When u recompose, ur shooting the eyes with the edge of lens which results eyes to come out soft and not sharp.

[@FreshPepper]

love the transitions in this video

[@joanneny8638]

Continue to inspire me Jessica I’m going to grab my camera - have exact camera you are using such a beast of a camera, I love me my Cannon. Have the 1.4 nifty 50 so attaching that. It’s cold up here in NY - no excuses. Getting out from under the covers now. Keep these videos with the touch of humor coming girl. You the best.

[@breemoody2743]

Thank you immensely, you've really helped me develop a more accurate sense of "my style" over the last year by helping me with the more techincal side of my camera. You're very admirable, keep up the awesome work!

[@breemoody2743]

I wish so badly that I found you sooner lol

[@sam-wl6yu]

Post notification squad!

[@JessicaKobeissi]

BEST SQUAD

[@richardpcrowe]

Very good video with succinct information... You asked for personal tips on getting sharp portraits... My personal tip on how to get good focus on the eyes is to use a Sony mirrorless camera such as the A7iii with full-time Eye-AF, including animal Eye-AF...

[@risbill1]

So you can't get a blurry background at f4? I do all the time.

[@PrttypleasePriscilla]

You are the best, Jess.

[@66spells55]

friends: oh omg you're so good at photography ! ! ! me: *heh heh, they don't know it's photoshop >:)*

[@RoryArmstrong]

The lighting on this video is......LIT🔥🔥

[@Annekagrace]

When ever you upload it makes me so motivated to just get up and film ahhh you are so inspiring 😍❤️ Ps I’m a comedy small youtuber 😂💀

[@makaylacaroline]

She’s awesome and love your content as well ❤️❤️

[@waynosfotos]

With mirrorless you can zoom in and see in the viewfinder if it is actually in focus, I find this is a big + over my DSLR

[@virtuouswoman908]

I love the tips! I guess I’ll be renting my gear for sharper images! 🤣

[@naba04]

Also depending on what camera you have. Shooting at 1.2 Or 1.4 is hard especially using cropped body. You can only go so high on the ISO without getting grainy. You can only go so high with the shutter speed to balance them between ISO. Also for the angle shots (low, high, rule of third, golden mean) Make sure you are focusing on the subject’s eye; hold the shutter button (to keep the focus) then reposition the frame/angle the way at you want. That’s how you get it sharp shooting angles. Also know that the sharpest focus point in the middle.

[@davidpradel]

“Lets get the popcorn pop” ahahahaha I love it Jessica

[@EncoreHour]

love how everyone in this thread is an expert at defining these camera terms, bickering about who is right and wrong and what are the best settings. does it matter? go out, shoot, come back to the computer, analyze, find room for improvement. forget about the technicality: that comes naturally after using your camera and pushing it to its limits. the best settings for the best possible portraits depends entirely on style, time of day, and the tools you have available. settings will likely have to change every moment depending on lighting conditions and the mode you shoot in. I shoot mostly indoor concerts and shows, so i'm constantly shooting with a wide open aperture, the slowest possible shutter speed that won't produce too much movement (generally 1/50, 1/60 and 1/125 indoors) and i push my ISO to its limits on my new a7iii, even going as high as 10,000 ISO if need be. Again, forget about the "best possible settings" and go out there and shoot in manual. you'll find what works best if you let your brain do the thinking, and take the camera off auto mode.

[@ajaykandhari]

Forget the photos, talk about your jawline.

[@viviannareynoso2836]

Ajay kandhari ????

[@jojolynnlynn]

i know ! it looks AMAZING 🔥

[@ctrlaltdeldavid]

Usually you’re supposed to focus on a person’s eyes

[@lehongduc733]

I touched my screen when I saw your avatar :)))

[@manniedwomoh9190]

😂😘❤️🔥😂

[@clarissuhnicole5999]

I always struggle getting clear photos with the low f-stop and always have to just up it on my camera .I never really thought of the focus options as something that could help so i'm definitely going to try that!

[@DrawwithShiba]

Hi Jessica, I hope you are doing well. Great fan of your videos and I love watching them. I have a simple question. I am really getting confused with my DSLR which is canon 200D. I shoot watercolor painting videos on this channel, but I see I am unable to achieve the sharpness in my my painting videos. Is this a lense issue. I am not getting that crisp sharp colours in my video. I would love if you recommend any lense or camera setting as suggestion for perfect sharp videos.

[@AshleySmith-qk8rt]

Hi Shiba! I’m not Jessica but I thought I would attempt to help out. When you’re setting up, try placing a finished painting where your blank paper would normally go. It’s hard to tell if the paper is in focus when there is nothing on it. Then when you set up your camera, adjust the focus manually until your painting is focused the way you want it. Turn OFF auto focus. Then once the focus is properly tuned, swap out the finished painting for the blank paper. It’s important that auto focus is off or it will try and focus on your hand, brush, etc and the painting will become soft. You can also try opening your aperture wide. Shooting portraits at 1.4 makes a nice look, but you may not be worried about a low aperture in your videos. Try f11 and adjust the rest of the settings accordingly! If none of this is working, you may have focus issues in your camera and may need to have it calibrated so that the focus of the image matches your camera settings. Hope this is helpful!

[@lidiaspringer]

I will tell you. ALWAYS you will lose sharpness if you speed up the video so you should don't focus on raw video you already recorded in real-time because on youtube always will be worse + with speed up. You can also try to change the sharpness in camera settings or add sharpness in Premiere Pro but here I recommend do it before you speed up frames. And you must turn off autofocus tracking in camera settings

[@summermantooth9856]

Not sure if you will see this, but this has helped me so freaking much. I've been trying to learn manual for awhile and haven't had much luck. I have shot the best photos I have ever taken after watching this!

[@ezulueta1]

One thing most viewers who have a 5d mark IV and a 50m 1.2 probably know this. I think doing a video with a more mainstream setup like a rebel and 50m 1.8 or even the kit lens may be of more benefit to more viewers.

[@tonyjames5444]

Helpful video for a Canon user, have to say though the EAF we are seeing on some cameras now is a game changer, it frees you up to concentrate fully on the composition and thanks to its accuracy enables more fluidity/movement of the model.

[@alexistopetemaldonado2064]

.......didn't expect Eminem to be mentioned. Lol I'm shook. I was having some trouble with this thank you so much!! 😭 Edit: trouble with getting sharper portraits

[@JessicaKobeissi]

omg I grew up listening to his music!! I'm Detroit born and raised! He's an icon haha

[@emilycross4527]

Spot AF first, then Sony eye AF nails it every time. Great tip about the angle of the camera.

[@mjylem]

I subbed because of the Eminem part LMAO

[@_BrianFitz]

Hey Jessica, your such an inspiration

[@EdBareff]

If you really want to get sharp photo don't shoot at 1.2 The best sharpness comes with 2-3stops.(every lens different) Make a test and you will be surprised.

[@gmorl]

I was thinking the same thing. Shoot at like 85mm to 115mm and maybe f2.8 or even one- or two-third stops smaller and I feel like you're gonna get better results. You'll still get the separation from the background at those focal lengths, with more of the model in focus. I don't shoot portraits wide open because if you only get the far eye in focus, the closer eye is out of focus, and I don't feel like it's a successful image.

[@ahmdo8485]

I tried this immediately after seeing your comment and I saw a significant difference in sharpness. Thanks a lot!

[@anthonykago4428]

Also making sure your diopter is correctly setup for your eyesight. It may look sharp when you half press the shutter button to focus, but looks fuzzy thru the diopter.

[@Doeneseya]

*Helpful video!! Thank you!* 💖

[@vincentseoka5426]

Simple and sharp straight to the point. I love it. It works.

[@DavidSVega-cu1dv]

❤️ Thank you for the videos. They do make a difference and are making an impact in actual people’s lives. Keep it up!

[@JessicaKobeissi]

Thank you so much!!

[@berlincoachdrivergoescreat8721]

Sorry if someone already wrote this, so many comments .... you forgot to mention you used a high shutter speed 1/1250. That means there is very little motionblur which also means a crisp and sharp photo. On the other sides of the triangle you have a low ISO and a very fast lens wide open. High shutter speeds are also great for shooting architecture outside if you dont have a tripod or a good IBIS.

[@380stroker]

1/8,000 shutter speed with Sony eye focus = Sharpest Eva!!!! Yeah Boi!

[@ElizaKnows]

Watching these before I even get a camera. Cant wait

[@maseehamahomed3209]

I'm getting a canon 250d tommorw I'm so excited. I hope u enjoy you camera

[@ElizaKnows]

@@maseehamahomed3209 I did get a second hand a6000! Its charging and I'm so excited! Enjoy your camera.

[@jozebarrera5828]

I love Jessica sense of humor. Her videos always educational but hilarious

[@Cliffy_jr]

Jose Barrera hilarious?

[@bikecommuter24]

Have you thought about using your custom settings on the mode dial? ,you can make a set of parameters you use often and then set them to one of the C settings you camera actually has C1,C2 and C3. My 7Dmkii has them I only use one which funny enough is set up to shoot airplanes which is set for AF servo, all focus points, high speed continuous shutter. the rest of the time its on manual, for portraits I too like the center point but most of the time I'm on the other settings as needed, (sometimes I'm changing subjects so fast I do switch to auto shhh LOL) This is an excellent advise thanks for sharing.

[@teamdamak]

First of all: You're so beautiful. That's it

[@JASMINEJADE]

you'll never understand how much this video helped me improve with all of my settings. thank you so much

[@3aBap4uK]

Maybe you've missed the most important point. Shoot with speeds above 1/1000th. And yes, you may get a sharp photo with lower speed, but most winners you'll get with above 1/1000th. And shooting at max aperture...?!?!? The best results are always a stop or two after max. At 1.2 what are you trying to achieve? Almost everything is out-of-focus due to so tiny DoF. And why the whole thing with a 50 mm. The moment your model is with bigger nose (or chick bones) you ruin it all. 85 mm is better than 50mm (cause it's above 70 - proven less distortion). Additionally why limiting yourself to having half face out-of-focus when the 70-200 @ f/4 or f/5 is perfect with an amazing bokeh? That doesn't mean that 50 mm is not an option of course (I shoot with it as well). Just sayin' that for a sharper focus there are many better options than the current proposed. Or at least mention the speed, which is the most important for best results.

[@mvpro2k8]

1/1000 @ f/5? Sorry to disappoint but all your golden hour pictures will be a collection of black squares at base iso.

[@Mega-knight_55]

Your DOF can be altered if you change your distance from your subject. You can add more space between yourself and the subject and still get everything on your subject sharp even shooting wide open.

[@RidewithReed]

Damn. Goat. This is what I was looking for. took a pic and saved to my favorites on my phone. Lol. Thanks ! girl/brah

[@3aBap4uK]

​@@mvpro2k8, she is talking portrait. I am sorry that I have to dissapoint you, but first if I get to shoot a portrait @ g.h. most probably I would simply add at least one speedlight for more dramatic effect. And since at this very moment I am editing in LR such photos I can assure you that @168mm on f2.8 with speed of 1/1250 with 800 ISO I am getting pretty sharp photos EVEN when the speedlites fail to ignite. In that particular case I've compensated the exposure with less than a STOP (0.76). Simply shoot in RAW and try to get a newer camera (any model from any brand from the last 4-5 years should do the job - no matter the price as long as it shoots in RAW). I hope I helped. Sorry for answering after a year. Not a very youtube guy.

[@3aBap4uK]

@@RidewithReed brah ;-)

[@ski_blue6871]

5d mark IV has a stabilized sensor so is the equal of having a stabilized lense , so I'm sure this help a lot when shooting with 50mm 1.2 at full aperture

[@elektropassgo]

So what you surprisingly don't address in this video is the difference between SHARP and small depth of field. Two completely different concepts, as I know YOU'RE aware of Jessica, but many of your viewers are not.

[@SaneAsylum]

Exactly! The shorter the lens/the larger the aperture, the shallower the depth-of-field and more potential for a problem portrait. Sharpness comes from focus and sensor processing. Imagine the horror of anyone using anything slower than f1.2!!! These days you see lots of people with fast glass that lives behind a neutral density filter, that is funny right there!

[@ice876ify]

You break it down really well making these tutorials easy to understand. Thank you !

[@FourteenPillars]

Was waiting for an “AF” joke loool

[@sirazul438]

Finally found a beautiful KZbinr on camera tips😍😍😍

[@NawafOding]

I'm not expecting the Ending IT'S ALL OF A sudden I thought my internet went down.